| Zancha |
Boot that was tight fitting and came up on the leg quite high, made from soft black leather. |
| Zanella |
A twilled fabric generally made with combed cotton warp and worsted, rayon or silk filling. Used for linings and previously for umbrella covering. |
| Zápinka |
Sewn or woven piece which is used for fastening. Has holes for button fastening at each end, or one end is permanently sewn on and the other is fastened by button. Used for the closure of certain upper garments, typically the coats of uniforms, at the neck. |
| Zápinkové Zapínání |
Closure of garments by the use of zápinkové and buttons or olive buttons. Used for fashion- and sportswear, uniforms, the insides of breast pockets, etc. |
| Zarahan |
A plain weave striped silk fabric similar to taffeta. It is of Arab origin and the better grades were brocaded with gold. Used for garments and linings. . |
| Zarbaf |
A lightweight silk fabric brocaded with gold. The term is Persian in origin, ‘zar’ meaning gold and ‘baf’ meaning weave. |
| Zardosi |
Intricate hand embroidery using gold, silver or multi-coloured wire on a variety of fabrics. Traditional garment from India. |
| Zardozi Work |
Work in which gold or silver metal threads are sewn on a fabric like satin or velvet with metallic threads to give the appearance of true embroidery. |
| Zari |
Metallic thread twisted over cotton or silk for brocading. Also referred to, in popular parlance, as jade. |
| Zed Twist |
Traditional direction of the spinning twist been used only in limited production of denim fabrics. |
| Zein |
A corn protein obtained by treating corn gluten with alcohol. Used in making fibres.. |
| Zein Fibre |
Also called Corn fibre. A natural polymer fibre, produced from zein, which is extracted from corn meal. It is softer than wool, has attractive handle. Can be made up into fabrics that are warm as wool. Used mostly in blends with cotton, rayon and nylon. |
| Zemana |
A double fabric with a wavy appearance, made with loosely woven backcloth, which is often napped. Made of a combination of cotton, wool and silk. Used for negligees. |
| Zenana |
A lightweight matelassé made with satin and gauze stripes. Used for women’s dresses. |
| Zephirities |
A light weight, lace-like silk jacquard fabric, made with two sets of raw silk warp; the ground warp is given a hard finish, while the warp used to form the designs is soft-finished. Originally made in France. The very sheer foundation is woven with both right and left hand twisted weft yarns, with one pick of each type alternating in every shed. The warp is used to form the designs are sheared away between the figures. |
| Zephyr |
A general term for a very fine fabric made in plain weave. The name has its origin from the ancient God of the West winds, Zephrus. The quality of the textile is airy and made from in wool, cotton and manufactured fibres. Usually it has coloured stripes on a white ground and exhibits a cord effect made by the introduction of coarse threads at intervals. Used for dresses, blouses, and shirtings and made in various qualities. |
| Zephyr Flannel |
A fine, soft, lightweight flannel made of wool and silk. |
| Zephyr Shirting |
Various light weight, sheer shirting fabrics usually made with a plain weave.
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| Zephyr Worsted yarn |
A variety of soft worsted yarn characterized by a low twist and spun from very fine wool. Sometimes silk or man-made fibres are blended in the yarn. |
| Zephyr Yarn |
Also called Zephyr worsted. A variety of soft worsted yarn characterized by a low twist and spun from very fine wool. Sometimes silk or man-made fibres are blended in the yarn. |
| Zerbase |
A double-faced silk fabric inter-woven with gold or silver threads. |
| Zero Twist |
Also called No twist. The thrower (spinner) may request that viscose yarns be supplied with no twist. This is rarely done, however; usually one to five turns per inch are given the yarns. |
| Zero Twist Yarn |
1. A continuous-filament single yarn in which there is no twist.
2. A multi-fold yarn in which there is no folding twist. (a) Certain fibrous yarns are described as twist-less, since the fibres may be held together by adhesive temporarily until incorporated in fabrics. Varieties of core-spun yarn and scaffolding yarn appear with this description after solvent-removal of one component. (b) Zero-twist continuous-filament yams usually become twisted by over-end withdrawal e.g., from a pirn in a loom shuttle |
| Zhivago |
Inspired by the movie Dr.Zhivago, the style is very Russian in feel with Cossack collars, fur-trimmed coats and dresses, fur hats etc. The style was created or adapted by French designer Marc Bohan in 1966. |
| Zibeline |
Wool from cross-bred yarns. A soft lustrous wool fabric with mohair, alpaca, or camel's hair. Satin weave. The fabric is napped then steamed and pressed. The nap is long and lies in one direction. It is very lustrous and sleek. It may or may not be given a soft finish and feel. It is usually strong coloured and sometimes subjected to colour stripping is noted in the cloth. Named for the ‘zibeline’ a small animal found in Siberia. It belongs to the sable family and has fine black fur. |
| Zibeline Yarn |
Spun from dyed wool with an admixture of long, colourless fibre of mohair, reindeer, hare, and also silk waste. |
| Zigzag Effect |
Refers to the factors that effect the elasticity of a seam. On a zigzag stitched seam, the factors that have the greatest effect on the seam elasticity include: |
| Zigzag Machine |
A swing-needle sewing machine either lock stitch or chain stitch, the needle bar of which alternates laterally to produce a zigzag stitch. |
| Zigzag Stitch |
Stitches formed by alternating the location of penetration of the needle on either side of a lengthwise band of stitching. The stitches generally used are the basic lockstitch or chain stitch. The stitches are similar to the normal except that the stitches form symmetrical zigzag pattern rather than continuing in a straight line. |
| Zigzag Twill |
A term broadly applied to twill weaves with a zigzag effect. These generally fall in the broken twill class. |
| Zigzagged-seam Finish |
A finish for the raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, in which machine zigzag stitching is placed 3 to 6mm from the raw edge. A zigzagged seam-finish is made by adjusting the machine to stitch in a back and forth manner (zigzag) near the edge of each seam allowance. |
| Zinc Finish |
Cotton goods that have been given calendaring finish by employing a zinc roller rather than a copper one. |
| Zinc Oxide |
A specialty French process zinc oxide used to produce a white or coloured resist when printing with H Reactive Dyes or Liquid Reactive Dyes.
1. The width of the zig or zag,
2. The stitches per inch,
3. The stitch balance and
4. The elasticity of the thread being used. The zig-zag effect also applies to overedge and coverstitched seams, as well. |
| Zip |
See Zipper. |
| Zip Fastener |
See Zipper. |
| Zip Fly |
The zipper alternative to the button fly, first used for jeans by H.D. Lee in 1926. Wrangler was the first to do a centre zip fly for women, in its Jeanie line, which debuted in 1950. The innovation was considered hazardous at first, but eventually became a booming success. |
| Zipper |
Also called Zip, zip fastener; slide fastener. A fastening device. A slide fastener consisting of inter-lockable metal or synthetic elements each attached to one of the opposing edges of two flexible tapes (with or without end stops) and a movable part called a ‘slider’ that spans the inter-lockable elements, which when moved in one direction causes the elements on one tape to interlock with the elements on the other tape, and when moved in the opposite direction causes the elements to disengage.
Zippers are stitched into garments generally in three ways: (a) in the centre slot, (b) lapped, or (c) fly-front application. |
| Zipper Bottom Assembly |
In zippers, the components, of the lowermost part of the slide fastener, which determine whether the slide fastener will be non-separable or separable. |
| Zipper Bottom Stop |
In the case of zippers, the part, affixed to both stringers immediately below, or over, the chain, holding the two stringers together at the bottom and preventing the slider from leaving chain. |
| Zipper Performance Characteristics |
The main zipper performance characteristics, which are generally tested, are: Colourfastness of zipper tapes to crocking, dry-cleaning, laundering, and light, Durability of finish of zipper to dry-cleaning, and laundering. Zipper dimensions, Operability of zipper, Peel strength of hook and loop touch fasteners, Resistance to unsnapping of snap fasteners, Resistance of zippers to salt spray, Durability of back coating, Shear strength of hook and loop touch fasteners and Strength tests for zipper. |
| Zipper Tape |
It has a fine, vertical frill on its surface, formed either by the alternating of standard- and sharp-twisted threads, the alternating of threads of greater and lesser tautnesses, or the alternating of thicker and thinner interlaced weaves. Typically a linen or twill-backed weave is used.
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| Zipper-look |
Fashionable style of youthful-look ladies' clothing which is applied in jackets, suits, skirts, coats and dresses. Distinctive for its generous, wide backstitched zips, which may be functional or decorative. |
| Zip-Tape |
A strip of material along one edge of which the bead and elements are attached. It is a narrow fabric which has high lateral strength, and may be woven or knitted. |
| Zirah |
A kind of coat of mail. |
| Zirpro |
A treatment, developed by the International Wool Secretariat, which improves flame retardance in wool fabrics. There is a wide range of specific applications enabling the treatment to be applied at the most convenient point in manufacture, i.e. involving least cost but ensuring the highest degree of flame retardance.
Specific treatments, such as ‘low smoke zirpro’ have been developed for aircraft manufacturers.
The Zirpro treatment (zirconium processes) can, also include other processing, e.g. Zirpro plus silicone for water repellence, Zirpro plus fluorocarbons for oil repellence, and Zirpro plus shrink-resist treatment. |
| Zoguri |
Silk greige goods produced in Japan. |
| Zona |
A broad flat belt which Greek girls wore until they got married; at which point her husband would remove it after the ceremony. |
| Zoomorphic |
Describes the forms of works of art and ornaments based on animal shapes. |
| Zoot Suit |
A severely cut suit consisting of a thigh-length jacket with wide padded shoulders and peg pants with narrow cuffs. |
| Zori |
A flat thonged sandal usually made of straw, cloth, leather, or rubber |
| Z-Twist |
A right-handed twisted yarn, as opposed to S-Twist. If the spirals in the yarn conform in slope to the central portion of the letter Z, then the twist is classed as Z-twist. Formerly known as right-hand or counter-clockwise twist. |
| Zucchetto |
A small round skullcap worn by Roman Catholic ecclesiastics in colours that varies according to the rank of the wearer.
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