| Wadded Cloth |
Fabric made with heavy extra warp or weft yarns, arranged to lie between the face and back of the cloth to add weight and
bulk or pad the fabric. The wadding or stuffer yarns are usually coarser and cheaper than the other yarns employed in the
fabric and do not show on either the face or the back, leaving the face of the fabric showing only the finer yarns employed
in the weave. Used for heavy outerwear. |
| Wadding |
A loose, cohering mass of teased fibre, usually in the form of a sheet or roll, used for padding, stuffing or packing.
Cotton wadding is thick and lightweight. Usually it is sandwiched between two papery layers of non-fluffy, shiny covering
which holds it together. The wadding can be split to half depth. Used for quilting, shoulder pads, etc.
Polyester wadding is usually, more open and springy and firmer than cotton. Available in various thicknesses. Used for shoulder pads, quilting, padding embroidery, etc. |
| Wadding Yarn |
Also called Stuffer yarn and padding yarn. Additional warp or weft used in a fabric for the purposes of increasing its
weight, bulk, firmness, or the prominence of the design. These threads are not visible on the fabric face. |
| Wader |
High waterproof boots or a one-piece waterproof garment usually consisting of pants with attached boots that are used for
wading, as when fishing. |
| Wadmal |
A coarse rough woollen fabric formerly used in the British Isles and Scandinavia for protective coverings and warm clothing. |
| Waffle |
A figured structure based on the piqué weave, which is often associated with the appearance of a honeycomb. |
| Waffle Cloth |
Fabric with a characteristic honeycomb weave. When made in cotton, it is called waffle piqué. Used for coatings, draperies,
dresses, towelling. |
| Waffle Piqué |
A fancy or figured fabric having a piqué structure. |
| Waffle Stitch |
A stitch employed in knit goods to produce a series of square, waffle-like designs. |
| Waffle Stomper |
A hiking boot with a lug sole. |
| Waffle Weave |
Square or oblong-shaped box formations appear on both the face and back of the fabric, by allowing both warp and weft yarns
to float at fixed intervals. |
| Waist |
A term related to garment sizing. In anatomy, the part of the body at the location between the lowest rib and hip identified
by bending the body to the side. |
| Waist Cloth |
See Loincloth. |
| Waist Girth |
A term related to garment sizing. In body measurements, the circumference of the waist immediately below the lowest rib. |
| Waist Measure |
Measure around waist, over body (not over shirt or slacks) at the height you normally wear your slacks. Number of inches
equals the size. |
| Waistband |
A narrow piece of fabric, binding, or an assembly attached to the top of trousers and skirts. Grown-on waistband is a
waistband in one piece with trouser or a skirt. |
| Waistcoat |
From the Louis XVI period onwards waistcoats were worn under all men's outer garments, coat, riding-coat, frock coat, jacket,
etc. usually the two front panels were made from fine material and the back, which isn't seen, from lining material. |
| Wale |
1. In knitted fabrics, an intermeshed row of loops along the length of a weft knitted fabric. A column of loops in successive
courses that is parallel with the loop axes. In machine knitting it is the product of one needle.
2. In lace, the distance between the centres of two adjacent pillars.
3. In woven fabrics, one of a series of raised ridges or ribs lying warp-wise in the fabric. |
| Wale Count |
A quality measure to determine the number of wales in a centimetre or inch.
|
| Wale Shaping |
Two and three-dimensional shaping of knitted fabric achieved by the movement of wales, which are both terminated and
introduced to a pre-determined plan. |
| Wales |
They are a series of ribs or ridges usually running lengthwise on woven fabrics. They describe the pile ribs found on
corduroy fabrics. |
| Walker |
A walking shoe |
| Wall |
See Cotton fibre wall. |
| Wall and Top Material |
In textiles, any pliable planar structure used as a non-base surface in camping tentage including roofs, sides, windows,
screens, doors, awnings, flies, and canopies. |
| Wall Cloth |
A fabric used as a wall covering. May have embossed, printed or woven designs. Damask or fortune prints are luxurious and
expensive wall coverings. |
| Wall Thickness, Apparent |
The apparent width of a fibre wall as seen when fibres are examined under a microscope. Note: in the cotton fibre maturity
test, the apparent wall thickness assessed visually at the widest part of the fibres as a fraction of the maximum ribbon
width. |
| Wallachian Embroidery |
A solid type of needlework done with the single purl stitch. Find usage in embroidering leaves and eyelets, etc. |
| Wall-to-wall Carpeting |
A carpet that covers the entire floor. It can be made of any fibre or fibres, and in any construction. |
| Walnut |
A moderate reddish brown. |
| Warbonnet |
An American Indian ceremonial headdress with a feathered extension down the back |
| Warehousing |
When goods are to be hold in a plant awaiting instructions from the consignee, they are sent to the warehouse for storage and
future removaling. |
| Warehousing Defects In Garment |
Garment deteriorated in warehouse through obsolescence, owing to improper turnover of stock, attacks by water, mould or
animal agencies; degradation by sunlight. |
| Warm |
A woolly or fibrous hand generally associated with fabrics that keep the body warm. |
| Warm Colours |
Colours like Red, Orange, Yellow are classified as warm colours, they are advancing in nature, because as seen by the eyes
these colours move closer thereby reducing the size of an object. Warm colours are cheerful. |
| Warmth Tester |
A laboratory device, which measures the warmth of fabrics under conditions simulating their customary uses. The effect of the
kind of fibre, weave or knit, length of nap, and kind of finish on the thermal properties of a fabric can be measured with
the aid of this instrument. |
| Warm-up |
A suit for exercise or casual wear comprising a jacket or sweatshirt and pants. Often used in plural. Also called, warm-up
suit or athletic suit or sweat suit. |
| Warp |
1. The longitudinal yarns in a woven fabric. Yarn intended for use or used in the warp of a woven fabric.
2. A number of threads in long lengths and approximately parallel, in various forms intended for weaving, knitting, doubling,
sizing, dyeing, or lace-making.
3. To arrange threads in long lengths parallel to one another preparatory to further processing. |
| Warp Band |
See Section mark. |
| Warp Beam |
1. A large spool-like device on which are wound long lengths of warp yarn. Yarns are wound side by side to provide ends in
the cloth to be woven.
2. The beam, which contains a group of yarns in long lengths wound approximately parallel for further textile processes
including dyeing, weaving etc. |
| Warp Bow |
Fabric defect. Fabric having set of curved warp threads. |
| Warp Breaks |
Breaks in the warp, which causes the loom to be stopped. |
| Warp Crow |
See under Crow.
|
| Warp Drawing |
See Draw warping. |
| Warp Dressing |
The operation of assembling on a beam yarns from a ball warp, beam warp, or chain warp immediately prior to weaving. |
| Warp Dyeing |
The dyeing of yarn in the form of warps. It is done on a beam as in package dyeing, or as a chain. . |
| Warp Effects |
Patterns chiefly formed by the warp threads, or where the warp threads dominate the face of the goods. |
| Warp End |
A warp yarn. |
| Warp Finings |
In lace made on Leaver’s machine, a filling-in structure obtained by two gait throws of warp yarn in opposite directions on
alternate motions. |
| Warp Float |
A length of warp yarn, which passes over two or more weft threads, instead of intersecting with them, in a woven structure. |
| Warp Hairline |
See under Hairline stripe. |
| Warp Holding Place |
See Sticker. |
| Warp Lap |
Also called Lapping. Motion of the guide bar, which carries the warp yarn to the needles to be knitted. |
| Warp Pattern |
Fabrics in which the patterns are produced by warp yarns. A pattern may be formed by using warp yarns of different colour,
fibre, and/or yarn size, e.g. one repeat of a different coloured warp constitutes a warp pattern. |
| Warp Print |
Warp yarns are printed with the design before weaving. Weft yarns are either white or neutral colour, so that a greyed effect
is produced. |
| Warp Rep |
A warp-ribbed fabric generally made with about twice the number of picks in the warp to produce the rib. Cotton warp reps are
usually made of plied yarn. Embossed moiré effects are employed on medium weights, and heavier weights are used for men’s
summer suiting. |
| Warp Rib |
An effect obtained by weaving two or more picks as one and by using a warp cover factor approximately twice the weft cover
factor, so that the warp is made to bend around the weft, which remains substantially straight. It leads to the formation of
rounded warp faced cords that run across the fabric. |
| Warp Sheet |
A multitude of warp yarns parallel to each other. |
| Warp Sizing |
See Slashing. |
| warp Snarl |
A short length of warp yarn that has twisted on itself owing to lively twist or insufficient tension. The snarling may occur
during or prior to the weaving process. |
| Warp Streak |
Fabric defect, in woven fabrics. A narrow band running lengthwise and characterised by apparent differences in colour from
adjoining ends. |
| Warp Stretch |
The amount of stretching sustained by warp yarn during sizing operations. It is usually expressed as a percentage of the
original length of unsized warp. |
| Warp Stripe |
A fancy knitted pattern formed on the surface of fabric by extra yarns. Used mainly for men’s hosiery, although, the
principle is occasionally used in–other knit goods, such as gloves. |
| Warp Twist |
The number of turns of twist per inch normally used for yarns employed as warp in fabrics. It generally is a greater number
of turns than in weft twist. |
| Warp Welt |
An obsolete term for a narrow ridge or raised stripe formed by the warp, such as occurs in piqués and Bedford cords. |
| Warp Winding |
See Warping. |
| Warp Yarn |
Yarn intended for use or used in warp of a woven fabric. |
| Warp-backed Fabric |
A woven fabric having two sets of warp threads and one set of weft threads. One warp and the weft together form the face,
while the second warp is laid at the back of the fabric and is stitched into it at intervals so as to form one structure, without distorting the surface appearance. |
| Warp-backing |
Additional warp on the back of a fabric, bound or stitched to the ground structure so that it does not interfere with the
appearance of the face, giving greater weight, thickness, warmth, etc. |
| Warp-face |
A weave in which the warp yarn predominates on the face. |
| Warp-faced Fabrics |
Fabrics with more ends on the face than picks, the face formed by the warp yarns. |
| Warp-faced Twill |
A twill weave fabric in which the warp yarns produce the diagonal effect and the warp appears most on the face of the fabric. |
| Warping |
The production of a sheet of parallel yarn in substantial long lengths and evenly spaced, by winding of warp yarns from
packages onto a warp beam.
In addition to beaming, the following methods of warping are practised: ball warping, cross-ball warping or cheese warping,
and chain warping. The primary stage of these methods of warping is the withdrawal of ends from a warping creel and their
assembly in rope form; a form that may conveniently be used for wet processing.
For convenience of handling, this rope may be:
(a) wound into a ball (ball warping),
(b) machine-wound on to a wooden roller into a cross-ball cheese (cross-ball warping or cheese warping), or
(c) shortened into a link chain (chain warping).
A number of these ropes may be assembled into a complete warp on a beam-dressing frame, or may be split and dressed and
incorporated in warps made by other methods. |
| Warp-knit |
A knitted fabric construction in which yarns are formed in to lengthwise stitches. Due to its construction, warp knits are
generally less elastic than weft knits. Some examples are Tricot knits and Raschel knits. |
| Warp-knitted Crêpe |
An irregular surfaced fabric either in plain or rib-based usually constructed from knit-float or knit-tuck loops introduced
in a predetermined random order. |
| Warp-knitted Piquè |
A fabric normally made with two guide bars that show pronounced cord effects in the warp direction. The portions between the cords are made by omitting one or more threads from the guide bar that is making the small underlap. |
| Warp-knitted Plush |
A fabric in which one series of threads form pile loops standing at approximately 90° to the fabric plane, being connected to
the ground construction by knitting-in or laying-in. The pile loop may be cut or uncut. |
| Warp-knitting |
A number of threads arranged in longitudinal and horizontal direction are bound together by formation of stitches. Making
fabric by a method in which the loops made from each warp thread are formed mainly along the length of the fabrrics.Manufactured on Tricot and Raschel knitting machines.
Warp knitting is characterised by the structural threads of the fabric running along the length of the fabric approximately
parallel with the selvage. One horizontal row of loops, or ‘course’, is made from many threads.
Warp knitting is characterised by the structural threads of the fabric running along the length of the fabric approximately
parallel with the selvage. One horizontal row of loops, or ‘course’, is made from many threads.
Warp-knitted fabrics are mainly flat, closer knit, ladders less easily and are more stable than weft-knitted. Extra inlaid
weft yarns can be used to increase stability. Warp knitting is done on Tricot and Raschel machines; both having different
kinds of needles.
In Tricot, one or more sets of yarns are used, e.g. for one-bar tricot the yarn is knitted first in one direction, then in
the opposite; in two-bar tricot using two sets, one is knitted in one direction, the other in the opposite. Many warp-knitted
fabrics are ‘locknit’ construction, the Warp-knitting Yarn
Yarn intended for use or used in making warp knit fabric. |
| Warp-lace Machine |
A type of lace machine on which the ground threads are looped and are taken from warp beams. The pattern threads are laid in
and secured by the ground threads. |
| Warp-pile Fabrics |
Also called Double-woven pile fabrics. An extra set of warp yarns forms the pile surface of warp pile fabrics and include
velvet, velours, etc. With these a travelling knife cuts the binder (or pile) warp which connects top and bottom fabric, thus
cut warp becoming the pile. Warp pile fabrics may also be single cloth in which the pile ends are looped over knife-edged
wires, which run the width of the loom. The wires cut the ends, as they are withdrawn producing a cut pile. These fabrics
include mohair pile plush, mohair cut frieze. A looped pile may be produced by employing wires without knives. Used mainly
for upholstery fabrics. |
| Warp-print Taffeta |
Usually a plain weave, the warp yarns are printed before the filling is inserted. The fabric has a very fuzzy design when
design is distorted as fabric is woven. |
| Warp-sateen |
A warp-faced sateen, made with a considerably greater number of ends than picks per inch. Generally stronger than filling
sateen. Used mainly as base cloth for coated fabrics, pillow and mattress ticking and comforter covering. |
| Warp-satin |
A warp-faced satin fabric. |
| Warp-shed |
The opening through which weft is inserted in a loom. |
| Warp-to-warp Seam |
A sewn seam in which the yarns in the warp direction on both sides of the seam are perpendicular to the seam. |
| Wash |
Any cleansing operation done in water or water containing detergents, alkalis or builders. A typical wash cycle consists of
soaking, washing, spin-drying, and rinsing. In latest automatic washing machines, load capacity, bath temperature and cycle
timings, etc. are electronically controlled. Commercially washing the jeans is an important final step that causes the denim
to fade and take on its unique look. |
| Wash Fastness |
The ability to resist colour change after three to five home washings. |
| Wash Fastness Tester |
A standard laboratory washing machine used to determine the colourfastness of fabrics to washing, dry cleaning or shrinkage. |
| Wash Goods |
Launderable textile fabrics, manufactured textile items or garments. |
| Wash Satin |
A soft, fine, inexpensive, white, cream or flesh-coloured satin, made from silk, or more usually, acetate or triacetate.
Washes and irons well. Used for lingerie, as it drapes well. |
| Wash Silk |
Any of a number of silk fabrics that can be washed easily without damage, generally made with little or no weighting. In
addition the dyes are fast to washing. More often the fabrics are yarn dyed. Used for dresses and blouses. |
| Washable |
Fabrics or garments, which may be washed without damage to colour or shrinkage. Generally need qualification on the basis of
laboratory tests as to the type of washing the material will withstand: hand, home machine, laundering, as well as
temperature. |
Washable Silk Fabrics
|
Silk fabrics that are machine-washable following treatment with a chemical process, the details of which are proprietary
information. |
| Washable Wool Fabrics |
Wool fabrics that are machine-washable because felting shrinkage has been controlled by chlorinating the fibres, partially
coating the fibres with polymers, or spot welding the fibres. |
| Wash-and-Wear |
Sometimes referred as Hand-wash, drip-dry. A generic term applied to garments, which satisfactorily retain their original
neat appearance after repeated wear and suitable home laundering with little or no pressing or ironing.
The wash-and-wear performance of a fabric or garment depends on several factors including the types and amounts (percentages)
of fibres used, the fabric construction, the finishing treatment, the presence of a coloured pattern (either woven or
printed), and the methods used for washing and drying. All of these factors contribute to the over-all performance and
determine, in any specific instance, how closely a fabric or garment will approach acceptance. |
| Washboard Effect |
1. Fabric defect in hosiery. A ridgy effect caused by uneven tension between feeds on the knitting machine.
2. Fabric defect in hosiery. The term is applied to hosiery when denier sizes are of yarn vary or when some filaments are
missing in the yarn. |
| Washed |
Refers to fabrics that have been laundered before shipping. This may be done to reduce shrinkage, soften the hand, wash down
the colour or to give the fabric a used, laundered look.
. |
| Washer |
1. A machine, designed for scouring, washing, fulling, milling, etc. of fabrics.
2. A machine for removing impurities, excess dyes or chemicals by submitting fabric or yarn, in rope or open-width form, to
successive liquid treatments. |
| Washer Breaks |
Also called Crow’s feet, finishing streaks, and washer wrinkles. Fabric defect. Cloth breaks or wrinkles of varying degree of
intensity, size, and shape occurring during the wet processing of fabric. |
| Washer Nylon |
A nylon garment treated with a special finish to produce a crinkled effect. |
| Washer Wrinkles |
See Washer breaks. |
| Washing |
Treatment designed to clean textile articles in an aqueous bath. Washing includes all or some of the following operations in
relevant combinations:
Soaking, pre-washing and proper washing (carried out usually with heating, mechanical action and in the presence of
detergents or other products) and rinsing.
Water extraction, i.e. spinning or wringing performed during and/or at the end of the operations mentioned above.
These operations may be carried out by machine or hand.
|
| Washing Shrinkage in Cotton |
Washing shrinkage is caused by physical adjustments in the fabric, brought about by swelling of the fibres when wet. When the
interlaced yarns of a woven fabric swell room to accommodate this swelling must be found. This room is most commonly provided
by the weft yarns being compressed closer together, by the warp yarns, which interlace with them.
This compressing action takes place over a number of washes until equilibrium is reached and the fabric will not shrink any
further. This was the reason why pre-washing of fabric was never a success as shrinkage treatment because one wash is never
sufficient and in any case many felt that it left the fabric second-hand looking without the smart mill finish. Width-way
shrinkage is not normally a problem except in special fabric types such as crêpe; most shrinkage is in length because the
initial tension on the warp yarns usually spaces the weft yarns sufficiently for compression room to be available. There is
no contraction of individual cotton fibres. |
| Washing Tests |
A series of laboratory laundry tests developed to determine in a short time the expected extent of shrinkage, colour fading
and abrasion and other damages, if any encountered in five average commercial or home launderings. |
| Washing-off |
Treatment of textile material in water or detergent solution to remove substances employed in previous process. |
| Waste |
Material removed, rejected, or otherwise lost in various manufacturing processes. There are two classes of waste known as
‘hard’ and ‘soft’, and their treatment differs according to the class. Hard waste is essentially that from spinning frames,
reeling and winding machines and all other waste of a thready nature. Soft waste comes from earlier processes where the
fibres are relatively little twisted, felted, or compacted. |
| Waste Factor |
In garment manufacturing, the amount of material left when garment portions are cut from piece goods, knitted blanks or
shaped garment portions. The waste is expressed as a percentage of the weight of the original fabric. |
| Waste Silk |
The short, unreeled filaments that are left after the long cocoon filaments have been removed. These short noils are carded,
sometimes combed also and used for manufacturing of spun silk yarn. |
| Wasty |
1. Material that contains or yields much waste.
2. A weak wool that is subject to abnormally high weight loss in manufacturing.
3. A wool that contains a high percentage of grease and dirt and therefore there is a considerable loss of it in scouring. |
| Wat-a-Set |
A pre-curing process sometimes used to avoid weakening of polyester blends. This finish also has a pre-curing process
intended to keep whites and wrinkle-free. |
| Watch Cap |
A knitted close-fitting usually navy-blue cap worn especially by enlisted men in the US navy in cold or stormy weather. |
| Water |
The chemical compound H2O. A binary compound that occurs at room temperature as a clear colourless odourless tasteless
liquid; freezes into ice below 0 degrees centigrade and boils above 100 degrees centigrade; widely used as a solvent. It is
the most universal dye requirement, crucial in every way and also necessary to have a very plentiful supply. |
| Water Colour |
Refers to designs that are characterized by soft gradations and soft shadings of colour suggestive of semi-opaque watercolour
paintings. |
| Water Damage |
Dyeing defect in fabric. A stain that has a sharply defined straight or wavy edge and that fades away rapidly to normal
colour. This defect is caused by deposition of dye, soil, or finishing compounds carried by water wicking through the fabric,
and represents the furthest point of this migration.
|
| Water Glass |
Also called Soluble glass. A substance generally consisting of sodium silicate, sometimes potassium silicate, or both (double
water glass), used as a mordant, for weighting silk, etc. Marketed as a glassy mass, a stony powder, or dissolved in water as
a viscous syrupy liquid. |
| Water Hardness |
In ordinary water, salts of calcium and magnesium are commonly present in three forms, viz. (a) bicarbonates, (b) sulphates,
and (c) chlorides. Bicarbonates produce ‘temporary hardness’, whereas sulphates and chlorides produce ‘permanent hardness’.
Hardness of water is expressed in ‘degrees’ indicating number of parts of calcium or magnesium salts in terms of calcium
carbonate present in 100,000 parts of water. Thus water of 10° hardness means that it contains calcium or magnesium salts
equivalent to 10 parts of calcium carbonate in 100 litres of water. Water is classified into four categories depending on its
hardness.
Hardness: 0° to 4° = soft, 4° to 7° = fairly hard 7° to 20° hard above = 20° very hard.
Water may contain either temporary or permanent hardness or both.
Temporary hardness can be removed by merely boiling the water and filtering. Permanent hardness cannot be removed by boiling
alone.
Permanent hardness is removed by suitable chemical treatment or by the use of water softeners or sequestering agents. Water
softeners involve large initial investment but they give continuous supply of soft water and the working of the softeners is
also easy.
In simpler terms, water is said to be ‘soft’, if it gives an immediate lather with soap solution, and ‘hard’, if lather is
obtained with difficulty. The calcium and magnesium ions, that are present in hard water, combine with the anions of the soap
(usually sodium or potassium salts of oleic, palmic, or stearic acids) to form insoluble calcium and magnesium compounds.>
On boiling hard water, the bicarbonates are decomposed with the precipitation of the normal carbonates. The hardness due to
the presence of the alkaline-earth-bicarbonates largely disappears on boiling (a little of the resultant carbonates dissolves
in the water); this hardness is called ‘temporary hardness’.
The residual hardness, due to the chlorides and sulphates of the alkaline earths and the amount of their carbonates soluble
in pure water, cannot be removed by boiling, and is termed ‘permanent hardness’.
The sum property of temporary and permanent hardness of water represents the total hardness. |
| Water Retained |
The amount of water (moisture) absorbed by the textile fibres, adsorbed on the surface of the fibres, and held within the
voids of the fabric after immersion, measured under specified conditions. |
| Water Retention |
The moisture remaining in and on a fibre, after specified mechanical treatments. |
| Water Softener |
A chemical added to hard water to bring down its hardness, i.e. to make the water soft. In most of the textile
wet-processings, water hardness impairs the quality and efficiency of the process. It is used this for "hard water"
containing calcium and other minerals that can interfere with the dyeing process. |
| Water Spots |
Dyeing defect, major. An unwanted pale area in a piece-dyed fabric. Usually caused by migration of colour when dyed fabric is
allowed to remain wet too long before drying. It may also be due to contamination with water prior to dyeing on a pad mangle,
which results in a reduction of uptake of dye liquor. |
| Water Spotting |
An unattractive physical change produced on some surfaces by a drop of water. |
| Water Tabby |
A lightweight silk taffeta with moiré finish. |
| Water Work |
A fabric used for hangings or curtains. Commonly painted with colour and formerly made to resemble tapestry. |
| Watered Fabric |
See Moiré fabric. |
| Waterfowl Feathers |
Feathers from ducks or geese, or both. |
| Watering |
1. Imparting a wavy pattern to the surface of a fabric by pressure under heat.
2. An operation used in grass bleaching that consists of spraying fabrics laid on a green with water. |
| Water-jet Loom |
A shuttle less, fluid-jet loom in which the weft is inserted by a jet of water. In this type of loom the warp, weft and many
loom components get wet during weaving, which creates problems not present with any other type of loom. |
| Water-mark |
1. A pile orientation difference, in some pile fabrics, resulting in light reflection differences. See also Shading and Pile
reversal.
2. A moiré fault produced by the pressure of the surface of one layer of fabric on another.
3. An unwanted mark on a fabric caused by contamination with water prior to tinting or dyeing on a pad mangle or beam dyeing
machine, which results in a reduction in dye uptake. |
| Water-mark Fabric |
See Moiré fabric. |
| Water-packed Cotton |
Damaged cotton that has been water-soaked before baling. |
| Water-penetration Resistance |
The ability of a fabric to withstand penetration by water in specified circumstances. Water may be under pressure (e.g.
hydrostatic head test) or in the form of drops hitting the surface of the fabric. |
| Water-proof |
1. A term applied to fabrics whose pores have been closed, and therefore, will not allow water or air to pass through them.
2. The ability of fabric to be fully resistant to penetration by water. Note: the term is an absolute one and implies that
the water penetration resistance of the fabric is equivalent to its hydraulic bursting strength. |
| Water-proof Finished Fabrics |
These are finishes that resist wetting and the penetration of water. Waterproof fabrics are generally woven tightly and
coated with a rubber, plastic (usually vinyl), linseed oil, cellulose esters, or other compounds. Fabrics are nonpermeable to
air, possess a firm non-drapable hand and are not comfortable as wearing apparel |
| Water-proofing |
Fabrics for raincoats, table covers, etc. are treated with non-ventile finishes like rubber, oils, oil mixtures, lacquer
compounds or synthetic resins. Weather proofed fabrics shed water under all pressures. The use for which the fabric is
intended determines whether it should be waterproofed or water repellent processed. Water-proofing closes the pores of the
fabric. However, now re-engineered ventile finishes of resins or synthetic rubber are available, which forms minute pores. |
| Water-repellence |
The ability of a fabric to shed water to a limited degree. |
| Water-repellent |
A textile material, which has the ability to resist surface wetting. Water repellence is established by the natural
properties of the fibre and yarn, and by chemical treatment of the fabric so that it repels water. Water repellent finishes
do not close the pores of the cloth against air, and as the body can ‘breathe’ through them, they are more comfortable to
wear than water proofs. |
| Water-repellent Finished Fabrics |
Fabrics characterized by reduced spreading, wetting, and penetration of water due to the presence of water repellents,
chemicals. |
| Water-resistance |
A measurement, which determines the ability of a fabric to withstand sustained contact with water. |
| Water-resistant |
A fabric which has the ability to resist wetting and penetration of water. A fabric may be water resistant due to its construction, due to fibres or yarns repelling water or due to a finishing treatment. |
| Water-soluble |
Any paint, dye or resist that is water-based. The paints and dyes can be thinned with water and the resist can be washed out
with water. Soap and water clean up. |
| Water-soluble Resist |
A water-based viscous liquid used to outline images painted with dyes or paints to keep them from spreading across the fabric
and to define their borders. They can be iron set if you're using paint, and some can be steam set for dyes. You can wash the
clear resists out with warm water and the coloured resists are dry-cleanable. Some people think gutta is more precise when it
comes to fine detail and holding the line. |
| Watt Silk |
A waste silk produced in the cultivation of the silkworm. It is very irregular, and is therefore one of the poorest grades,
being virtually a silk refuse. |
| Watteau Pleat |
Box pleat sweeping down from the shoulders to the hem in the loose back of the gown. |
| Waulking |
See Fulling. |
| Wave Twill |
A twill weave with a wave or zigzag design produced by changing the direction of the twill at intervals. The term is also
applied to the fabric.
. |
| Wave-shed Loom |
Looms in which it is possible to lay in several wefts simultaneously. |
| Wavy Cloth |
See Crooked cloth. |
| Wavy Face |
Fabric defect. A surface condition characterised by a considerable variation in yarn diameter, so as to produce an uneven
wavy appearance.
|
| Wavy Selvedge |
See Slack selvedge. |
| Wax Cloth |
1. A waterproof fabric treated with wax or paraffin.
2. Another term for Oilcloth. |
| Wax Coated |
Refers to fabric that has been coated with wax or paraffin to alter the hand or appearance or to make the fabric water
repellent. |
| Waxed Cambric |
See Down-proof cambric. |
| Waxed End |
A shoemaker’s thread. A strong, thick thread composed of a number of filaments rubbed with shoemaker’s wax. It generally has
a bristle point and is used for sewing leather in which holes have been punched. |
| Waxing Finish |
A glaze given to cotton fabrics by sizes or gums. The cloth is calendered, pressed and lustsred and treated with special
finishes necessary to the end use of the fabric. Fabrics so treated include linens, linings, bandings and automobile tyre
cloth. |
| Waxing, Warp |
The application of wax to a warp sheet so as to improve its weaving performance. The wax, in emulsion or molten form, is
usually applied by a trough and lick roller. The point of application may be between the swift and warp beam in section
warping , or between the creel and beaming head in beam warping or immediately after drying in slasher sizing. Normally waxes
must be readily removable in the subsequent finishing operation. Note: alternatively wax is sometimes applied to a warp by
means of a wax rod placed in the nip between the warp sheet and the weaver’s beam at the point where the yarn leaves the
latter. |
| WE |
See Working elongation. |
| Weak Acid Dye |
Also known as ‘Wash-fast’ acid dyes or Class III acid dyes. |
| Weak Electrolyte |
A substance that conducts electricity poorly in a dilute aqueous solution. |
| Weak Spots |
Also called Tender spots. Fabric defect. Places in fabric, abnormally weakened during any of the operations, through which it
passed. These are latent defects, which are not observable normally.
|
| Wear Dated |
Registered trademark of Monsanto for a merchandising trademark applied to garments made of Monsanto fibres and covering a
one-year guarantee of wearability and performance. |
| Wear Level |
The number of wear-refurbishing cycles to which an item has been subjected. |
| Wear Test |
A test in which textiles are subjected to wear-service conditions and evaluated for performance. |
| Wear Testing |
Testing fabrics for abrasion, flexibility, resiliency, washing, crushing, crease-retention, crease-resistance by observation
of the garment through actual wear. |
| Wear-refurbishing Cycle |
For a specific wear-testing program, one complete series of events that may be terminated by laundering or dry cleaning. |
| Wear-resistance |
The ability of a fabric to resist deterioration due to normal or excessive wear. |
| Wear-service Conditions |
The specific conditions under which a textile is used (e.g. at school, at work, at leisure, or at home). |
| Weasel |
Uses: The fur industry uses nearly all the species of the weasel family in making coats, trimmings, capes etc. The textile
industry uses large amounts of the fine fibres. |
| Weather |
Climatic conditions at a given geographical location including such factors as sunlight, rain, humidity and temperature. |
| Weather Cloth |
A fabric that will withstand all types of inclement weather. Items such as tarpaulin and canvas come under this category. |
| Weather Permit |
A modelling term. Sometimes a location booking may have to be cancelled at the last minute because of unfavourable weather.
Under such circumstances most agencies have standard agreements with their clients so that the model still receives a fee. |
| Weather Resistance |
Ability of a material to resist degradation of its properties when exposed to climatic conditions. |
| Weathered Twill |
A special dye process resulting in a softer fabric with a weathered appearance that will continue to enhance with each wash. |
| Weathering |
1. The action of atmospheric agencies or elements on substances exposed to them.
2. The discoloration, disintegration, etc., that results from this action. |
| Weather-O-Meter |
An apparatus that duplicates or simulates the combined effects of sunlight, rain, heavy dew and thermal shock and accelerates
the deterioration effects of these conditions, so that the equivalent of long periods of actual out-door exposure is
reproduced in a short time of testing in the laboratory. |
| Weave |
The process of forming a fabric on a loom by interlacing the warp and weft threads with each other. The weaves vary,
depending on the interlacing pattern, used in a woven fabric. The fundamental weaves are Plain weave, Twill weave, and Satin
weave. All other weaves, no matter how intricate, use one of these basic weaves in their composition. There are many
variations on the basic principle, which make possible many different types of fabric surfaces and fabric strengths. |
| Weave Analysis |
The physical analysis of a fabric to determine its construction. Method is usually with pick glass and pick needle. |
| Weave Effect |
The distinctive effect developed in a fabric by the weave, e.g. twill weave effect, honeycomb weave effect, etc.
|
| Weave Pattern |
Also called Point paper design. A plan (usually drawn on graph paper) used as a guide in weaving operations that employ
harnesses. |
| Weave Ratio |
Distance covered by a single unit of a pattern, which is duplicated in a repeated manner and measured on the length of the
fabric.
|
| Weave Repeat |
The smallest number of ends and picks on which a weave-interlacing pattern can be represented. . |
| Weave Types |
Types of weaves have often been mistaken for types of fabrics. The type of weave does not denote fabric content. Any
particular weave type may be woven from silk, polyester, acetate, or even blends of fibres. Each of the different fibre
content contributes to the hand and drape of the fabric.
. |
| Weaver’s Knot |
A quickly tied knot, which does not slip, becomes tighter the more it is pulled, and is not easily untied. Used for uniting
yarns in any textile process in which yarn is handled, up to and including its being woven into cloth. |
| Weaving |
TThe process of forming a fabric on a loom by interlacing the warp (lengthwise yarns) and the filling (crosswise yarns) with
each other. Filling is fed into the goods from cones, filling bobbins or quills, which carry the filling picks through the
shed of the loom. Filling may also be inserted into the material without the use of a shuttle, as in the case of a
shuttleless loom. The three basic weaves are plain, Twill, and Satin. All other weaves, no matter how intricate, employ one
or more of these basic weaves in their composition. There are many variations on the basic principles, which make different
types of fabric surface and fabric strengths. |
| Weaving Cycle |
The sequence of events between inserting one pick and the next. |
| Weaving Over |
Fabric defect. Cloth with this defect presents a distorted effect to the eye. Often noted in certain fabrics such as checks,
ginghams, plaids, overplaids, multicoloured and warp filling fabrics. The defects ‘weaving over’ and also ‘weaving under’ are
mostly caused by irregular timing of the box motion on the loom. |
| Weaving Slack |
Fabric defect, major. Caused by uneven tension weights on the warp beam and usually presents a sleazy appearance to the
goods. |
| Weaving Under |
See under Weaving over. |
| Web |
1. A rarely used synonym for fabric.
2. The sheet of fibres delivered by a card (card web)
3. A plain circular-knitted fabric.
4. A local and little-used synonym for warp.
5. Von-woven single or multiple sheets of fibre used in non-woven fabric production. Also termed batt. |
| Web Holding Sinkers |
Mechanisms that assist needles in forming loops by supporting the already formed knitted fabric during loop formation and
preventing the fabric rising as the needles rise during the knitting cycle. |
| Webbing |
Closely woven, stout, strong narrow cotton fabric, which has many uses. It ranges in width from less than one inch up to six
or more inches. Other fibres are now used to make webbing and there is great demand for all types of elastic webbing. Woven
on narrow fabric looms. So called, as many as 144 pieces of webbing may be woven at one time in a two or three tire
arrangement of the warps and shuttles or battens. Uses are for belting of many types, brake lining, carpet webbing, fan
belts, harnesses, suspenders, trunk webbing, etc. |
| wedding-band Collar |
A collar featuring a yoke that is either open or of sheer net with an ornate band fitting snugly on the neck, creating a
choker effect. |
| Wedge |
A shoe having a heel extending from the back of the shoe to the front of the shank and a tread formed by an extension of the
sole.
. |
| Wedgie |
A shoe having a wedge-shaped piece serving as the heel and joining the half-sole to form a continuous flat under surface. |
| Wedgwood Print |
Print of white design on coloured ground similar to the effect of Wedgwood China.
|
| Weepers |
White bands which were worn on the sleeve facings of coats and jerkins in the 17th and 18th centuries as a sign of deep
mourning |
| Weft |
Also called Filling and filler. A yarn intended for use in the filling of a woven fabric. A yarn which is interlaced with
warp threads to make a fabric. Yarn running from selvedge to selvedge at right angles to the warp in a woven fabric. The
widthways threads in a woven fabric. The terms ‘filler’ or ‘filling’ are widely used synonyms for weft. |
| Weft Accumulator |
A device for use with a shuttle-less loom for storing in advance of picking a length of weft yarn in a form that allows it to
be withdrawn at a high speed at a comparative low tension. |
Weft Backing
|
Additional weft on the back of a fabric, bound or stitched to the ground structure so that it does not interfere with the
appearance of the face, giving greater weight, thickness, warmth, etc. |
| Weft Bars |
1. Horizontal bars or stripes in fabric introduced deliberately by the use of wefts of varying thickness.
2. Fabric defect. Horizontal bars or stripes in fabric occurred accidentally due to the wrong use of wefts of varying
thickness or by irregularities in weaving motion. |
| Weft Bobbin |
See Pirn. |
| Weft Bow |
Fabric defect. Fabric having set or sets of curved weft threads. |
| Weft Carrier |
A yarn carrier providing a supply of weft and driven positively through a shed in a weaving machine.. |
| Weft Crow |
See under Crow. |
| Weft Curling |
See Weft snarl. |
| Weft Float |
A length of weft yarn, which passes over two or more warp threads, instead of intersecting with them, in a woven structure.. |
| Weft Insertion |
One of various methods for making a pick during weaving, e.g. shuttle, rapier, water-jet, etc. |
| Weft Snarl |
Also called Weft curling. A short length of weft yarn that has twisted on itself owing to lively twist or insufficient
tension. The snarling may occur during or prior to the weaving process. |
| Weft Streak |
See Barré. |
| Weft, Hairline |
See under Hairline stripe. |
| Weft-backed Fabric |
See Filling-backed cloth. |
| Weft-faced Fabrics |
See Filling-faced fabrics. |
| Weft-faced Twill |
A weave characterised by diagonal lines produced by a series of floats staggered in the warp direction. Floats are normally
formed by the wefts. |
| Weft-knit |
The most common type of knit formed by interlocking loops in the width wise direction . Weft knit tend to have more stretch
than warp knits. Examples are interlock, jerseys, double knits, rib knits. |
| Weft-knit Crêpe |
A double-faced warp-knitted fabric, which contains more rows of cleared stitches per unit of length on one side than the
other. |
| Weft-knit Cross-tuck |
A generic name used to describe either plain or rib weft-knitted fabrics, in which, the construction repeats on a minimum of
two courses and where tuck loops alternate with knitted loops within a course and between one course and another. |
| Weft-knit Fabrics |
A knitted fabric constructed on a circular or flat knitting machine with yarns knitted in to the width wise direction of the
fabric from individual packages of yarn. |
Weft-knit Plain Fabric
|
A fabric in which all the component knitted loops are of the same sort and meshed in the same manner. The fabric may also be
described as plain, single jersey, web, or stockinette. The appearance may be described with reference to the surface of the
structure.
1. Face or Technical face: The surface of a plain weft-knitted fabric that consists wholly of the face loops.
2. Back or Technical back: The surface of a plain weft-knitted fabric that consists wholly of back loops.
3. Effect side: The surface of the fabric intended to be used outermost on a garment or other construction.
4. Reverse side: The surface opposite to the effect side. |
| Weft-knit Plush |
A knitted fabric made with a looped pile showing on the reverse side of some or all stitches. The plush loops are elongated
sinker loops of the yarn lying at the back of a plated fabric. It is sometimes known as knitted terry. |
| Weft-knit Rib Fabrics |
A fabric in which both back and face loops occur along the course, but in which all the loops contained within any single
wale are of the same type, i.e. either face or back. |
| Weft-knit Single Jersey Jacquard |
Patterned single-jersey weft-knitted fabric, usually made from two or more yarns of differing colour or texture to give a
construction that consists essentially of knitted and float loops, but may incorporate tuck loops. Surface pattern is derived
from the chosen arrangement of the yarns and of the knitted and float loops. The inclusion of tuck loops into the
construction eliminates long lengths of floating threads from the back of the fabric.
Weft-knit Single Jersey Tuck Jacquard
Patterned single-jersey weft knitted fabric usually made from two or more yarns differing in colour or texture in
construction that consists of knitted and tuck loops. The surface pattern is derived from a chosen arrangement of the yarn
and of the knitted and tuck loops. |
| Weft-knitted Selvedge |
An edge of fully-fashioned garment panel. |
| Weft-knitting |
Making fabric by a method in which the loops made from each weft thread are formed mainly across the width of the fabric.
Fabric in which the constituent threads generally pass from side to side of the fabric, along the advancing line of
construction. Weft knitted fabrics are characterised by the structural threads being perpendicular to the selvage of the
abric. One horizontal row of loops or ‘course’ of such a fabric is normally made from one or very few threads; the yarn goes
back and forth across the fabric (weft ways) to make a flat fabric and goes round and round to make a circular or tubular
fabric. The basic stitches are plain, purl and rib. An extra yarn may be laid across, but not looped, to give greater
stability. There are various types of weft knitting machines to produce simple fabrics for seamless hose and underwear,
complicated cloth; for fully fashioned hosiery, underwear and outerwear; and intricate design fabrics like interlock, double
knitted, etc. |
| Weft-less Fabric |
As used in tyre building, a sheet of parallel cords surrounded by uncured rubber compound. |
Weft-less Tape
|
See Advertising tape. |
| Weight |
1. The force exerted on a body by gravity.
2. To determine the mass of a material.
3. As used with fabrics, mass per unit area of finished fabric. |
| Weight of Cloth |
The weight of fabric may be expressed in length per unit weight, or weight per unit length. |
| Weight of Goods |
A term for the weight of fabric being dyed; abbreviated form is W.O.G. |
| Weighted Fabrics |
Silk fabrics that are heavier and drape better due to the presence of metallic salts. |
| Weighted Silk |
Also called Dynamited silk. Sometimes metallic salts are used in the dyeing and finishing of silk to increase the weight and
draping quality–and thus to make it look more expensive. Over-weighting causes deterioration of the fabric. In the United
States only a 10% weighting is permitted by the Federal Trade Commission for a silk fabric to qualify as a "pure dyed silk."
In the case of black a 15% weighting is allowed for qualification.
|
| Weighter |
Any of a great number of agents used to add body, weight, or firmness to fabrics. If may be a gun, clay, starch, filler, wax,
polyvinyl acetate solution, vinyl acrylic polymer, chloride, salt, sulphide, et al. |
| Weighting |
The finishing application of certain salts to a fabric (mostly silk), in order to increase its weight, give more body, and
also stiffen it for a firmer drape and freedom from slippage of yarns. |
| Wellington |
A leather boot having a loose top with the front usually coming above the knee; usually used in plural. |
| Welsh Tapestry |
Brightly coloured fabrics in geometric designs that resemble tapestry-work. Cloth is double-sided and reversible, plain
weave, made from coarse Welsh woollen yarns. Although the same colours appear on both sides, the cloth is constructed such
that, the arrangement is reversed and gives a different colouring. Used for capes, coats, blankets, shawls, cushion covers. |
| Welt |
1. In knitting, the stable knitted structure used at the extremities of a knitted article where the fabric is not
incorporated into a seam. The function of the welt is to prevent the edge of the fabric from un-roving, laddering and
distorting after stretching. Welts particularly occur at hems, waistbands, cuffs, collars and facings. Seamed welts, which
are made after the knitting process, may occur in any position in the fabric. There are different types of welts.
2. In weaving, a fabric showing rounded cords in the weft direction, with pronounced sunken lines between them that are
produced by the nature of the weave. The weave on the face of the cords is plain. There are warp floats the width of the
cords on the back. Wadding picks are used to accentuate the prominence of the cords.
. |
Welt Collar and Cuffs
|
A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on sport shirts and short sleeve garments. |
| Welt Ripple |
A held-loop fabric, made on two sets of needles by selective knitting and missing on one set and continuous knitting on the
other and featuring roll or weave effects on the fabric side. |
| Welt Seam |
A complex seam formed on the inside of the object with one trimmed raw edge enclosed and one stitching line visible on the
face side. A welt seam is made by (i) machine stitching the face sides of the fabric together 15 mm from the edge, (ii)
pressing open the seam allowance, (iii) then pressing both allowances to one side, (iv) trimming the inner seam allowance to
6 mm, and (v) topstitching through the garment and the longer seam allowance, thus enclosing the inner seam allowance. The
two rows of stitching visible on the back side are the seam line and the topstitching. |
| Welted Seam |
In upholstered furniture, seam sewn with a strip of covered cord between the two fabric pieces, joined so that the welting
shows on the exterior of the furniture unit. |
| Welting Cord |
A hard and wiry cord consisting of two or more gimps twisted together, |
| Weskit |
A vest. |
| West of England Fabric |
Very high quality woollen cloth, produced in the Cotswold area. Type of cloth varies, e.g. it may be flannel, and it often
has a characteristic windowpane check design. Used for men’s suits, trousers, and overcoats, and for women’s coats. |
| Wet Adhesive Bonding |
A method of fabric-to-foam bonding. The most widely used adhesive is a water-based acrylic compound. After application to the
fabric, it is cured by a heat treatment, which creates a permanent bond without reducing any of the draping qualities of the
face material or affecting softness of hand.
> |
| Wet Adhesive Lamination |
A water-based acrylic compound is applied to a fabric; fabric is cured by heat. A permanent bond is created without affecting
the draping qualities of the face fabric or the softness of hand. |
| Wet Chlorination |
The term is used to describe a process of chlorination in aqueous solutions containing chlorine or a chlorine-yielding
reagent. |
| Wet Cleaning |
1. The aqueous process for cleaning of heavily soiled fabrics with soap.
2. The removal of water-soluble or emulsifiable soil from garments, often carried out on a draining board using tepid water
in the presence of detergents. It is also a process for cleaning garments etc, made from fabrics coated with materials,
liable to be damaged by dry cleaning solvents. |
| Wet Doubling |
The combination by twisting together of two or more single yarns which have been wetted out by immersion in water or water
with suitable additives or alternatively damped by contact with a transfer medium for similar fluids, before the folding
twist is inserted to form a plied yarn. |
| Wet Finishing |
The application of aqueous or other liquid treatments in one or more steps to impart different finishes to yarn or fabric.
Some of the more important processes are: beetling, bleaching, calendering, chasing, decating, dyeing, embossing, fulling,
gassing, lubricating, mercerising, milling, printing, shrinking, sizing, softening, sponging, stentering, washing,
waterproofing, etc. |
| Wet Fixation |
A finishing process for cellulosic fibre fabrics that improves the wet crease recovery and smooth drying properties, but not
the dry crease recovery. |
| Wet Laying |
1. The process of forming a fibre sheet by papermaking techniques, for non-woven fabric production.
2. A stage in the non-woven production route in which a web of fibres is produced by depositing an aqueous slurry of fibres
on to an endless belt |
| Wet Look |
See Ciré finish. |
| Wet Method |
A method of manufacture of man-made fibres, in which a polymer solution is forced through the tiny holes of a spinneret into
another solution where it is coagulated into a continuous filament. |
| Wet Pick-up |
The amount of liquid and material carried by the liquid, applied to a textile. Wet pick-up is usually determined as a
>percentage of either the dry or conditioned weight of the textile prior to processing. |
| Wet Processing |
A collective term for processes included in preparation, dyeing, printing, and finishing in which the textile material, is
treated with a liquid, normally water, or with chemicals in solution or dispersion in a liquid. |
| Wet Soiling |
The application of soil from a liquid medium. |
| Wet Spinning |
The process of extruding the solution of a fibre-forming material through a spinneret into an aqueous coagulating bath in
which the jets are hardened as a result of chemical or physical change. |
| Wet Stoving |
See under Stoving. |
| Wet Strength |
The strength of a textile material evaluated, when the material is in a thoroughly wet state. |
| Wet Suit |
A close-fitting suit made of material, as sponge rubber, that traps a thin layer of water against the body to retain body
heat and that is worn, as by a skin diver, especially in cold water. Surfers generally wear wet suits when surfing. The
suit protects the body from the board as well as maintains body temperature. |
| Wet Twisting |
This is contrasted with the standard ‘dry twisting’. Cotton yarns are passed beneath a roller submerged in a water trough
before actually being twisted together. The protruding fibres are laid down by the water, thus producing smoother yarn. |
| Wet-basis Moisture |
It is a deprecated term; see the more preferable term Moisture content. |
| Wet-laid |
Formation of a non-woven fabric by suspending fibres in water to disperse them evenly . The suspension is poured onto a moving screen allowing the water to pass through and leaving a fibre web, which is then dried to form the fabric. |
| Wet-spun |
1. Descriptive of a yarn of flax, hemp, or similar fibre spun from roving that has been thoroughly wetted out in hot water
immediately prior to the drafting operation.
2. Descriptive of man-made filament produced by wet spinning. |
| Wettability Testing |
A technique for comparing the evenness of various wetting agents (surface active chemicals) on textile fabrics.
|
| Wetting Agent |
A chemical compound which when added to water lowers both the surface tension of the liquid and its interfacial tension
against the solid material. |
| Wetting-out |
The soaking of a solution into a fibre in order that dyeing will be spread evenly. Before any wet process begins it is
necessary to thoroughly wet-out the material. More difficult than it sounds, and there are wetting agents. |
| Wevknit |
See Double piqué. |
| Wharve |
The pulley or boss on a spindle or false-twisting unit that is driven by tape, cord (banding), belt, or rope. . |
| Wheat |
A light yellow. |
| Wheat Stitch |
A series of slanting stitches connected by loops at the centers. Made to resemble a full ear of wheat. Used for borders and
outlines. |
| Wheaten |
A pale yellowish to ruddy fawn colour characteristic of the coat of some dogs. |
| Wheel Feed |
In sewing machine, a feed mechanism in which a driven wheel, in constant engagement with the material, replaces all or part
of the normal presser foot or feed dog. It is described as ‘upper wheel feed’ or ‘under wheel feed’ according to the position
of the wheel relative to the material. The feed may be continuous or intermittent. |
| Whip |
1. An extra warp yarn, which forms the figures in lappet weaving. It is not interwoven with the fabric itself, except at the
end of each run.
2. To overlay a cord, rope, etc. with other cords, rope, etc. twisting around the former. |
| Whip Thread |
Also called Doup ends. The thread, which is wound around another in the gauze weave. |
| Whipcord |
Also called artillery twill. A firm, compact, twill weave fabric using bulky yarns to give a raised look to the twill ribs.
The prominent, indented, steep twill is produced by having the warp closely set and the weft more open, and a special weave
in which the twill inter-lacings are ‘stepped-up’ two weft yarns to give a steeper twill line.
Although originally always wool or worsted, possibly with cotton weft, it is now made in any fibre, including nylon,
polyester, acrylic, viscose, cotton and blends. According to fibre content and weight, it is used for making tough riding and
sports clothes; light sports clothing such as tennis and squash shorts; children’s clothes, men’s trousers; and car seat
covers. |
| Whip-in |
See Pull-in. |
| Whip-net |
A net made with a thick warp, with ends spaced far apart, in a leno weave. |
| Whipping |
See Hemming-stitch and Overcast stitch |
| Whiskering |
Also called Whisker wash. Parallel horizontal distress marks on the upper thigh on the front of denim jeans; replicates the
natural wear of jeans from sitting down after long periods of wear and use; actual whiskering originates from
cowboys/ranchers that would sit on their horses for long periods of time, and through wearing and weathering creases on the
upper thigh cause a lighter line or ‘whisker’ to appear; name comes from parallel appearance that has resemblance to animal
whiskers. |
| White |
The achromatic object colour of greatest lightness characteristically perceived to belong to objects that reflect diffusely <
nearly all incident energy throughout the visible spectrum. |
| White Canvas |
An open weave, slightly stiff fabric made of cotton or, better quality, of linen. Used for white and pale coloured coats and
jackets. |
White Dye
|
A colloquial term for Fluorescent dye. |
| White Dyeing |
A colloquial term for Bluing. |
| White Embroidery |
INeedlework done in white threads on a white background. |
White Goods
|
Also called Domestics. Bleached cotton and linen fabrics, such as used for tablecloths, sheets, pillowcases and bleached
dress fabrics. It is a very broad term which implies any goods bleached and finished in the white condition. Some of the
cotton white goods are muslin, cambric, dimity, lawn, longcloth, organdy, voile, and so on. Tub or washable silks are
sometimes classed as white goods, as well as some of the lightweight crepe or sheer woollen or worsted dress goods materials. |
| White Standard |
The textile standard of whiteness is chemically pure white baryta. Other white textile materials graded in comparison with
this standard. |
| White-back |
See under White-back duck. |
| White-back Denim |
Another name for standard denim, made with indigo blue dyed warp and grey yarn filling. |
| White-back Duck |
A staple fabric with indigo dyed warp and unbleached or grey weft. The warp floats on the face and the weft on the back,
producing a ‘white-back’. The term duck is a misnomer because it is a plain weave. |
| Whiteness |
whiteness is the attribute by which an object colour is judged to approach a preferred white. |
| Whiteness Reflectancy |
Results of a test to determine the whiteness of a fabric as measured by the photometer.
Some fabrics, such as men's shirtings of broadcloth, poplin, madras, etc., are made on a dobby or Jacquard loom so that white
motifs will appear on a white background. The madras shirting in this category would have the usual stripe effect with the
‘two-tone; white pattern set between these coloured stripes. |
| Whitening Agent |
Woven of coarse cotton thread stiffened by sizing and used as hat foundations. |
| White-on-White |
Some fabrics, such as men's shirtings of broadcloth, poplin, madras, etc., are made on a dobby or Jacquard loom so that white
motifs will appear on a white background. The madras shirting in this category would have the usual stripe effect with the
‘two-tone’ white pattern set between these coloured stripes. |
| Whites |
White clothing. |
| Whitney |
Over-coating cloth made in wool. Soft and thick with a face-finish on the right side that produces a wavy line effect. If
made from good quality woollen yarn, it is an excellent and hardwearing cloth.
. |
| Whole-back |
The back section of a garment, which is cut in one piece. |
| Wholesale |
Wholesale establishments, on the other hand, are primarily engaged in selling or arranging the purchase or sale of:
1. Goods for resale,
2. Capital or durable non-consumer goods, and
3. Raw and intermediate materials and supplies used in production. Wholesalers normally operate from a warehouse or office
and are characterized by having little or no display of merchandise. In addition, neither the design nor the location of the
premises is intended to solicit walk-in traffic. Wholesalers also do not normally use advertising directed to the general
public.
. |
| Wholesale Price |
Cost for goods before retail mark-up. |
| Wick |
A loosely twisted, braided or woven fabric, or a yarn or a group of yarns, having outstanding capillary properties. |
| Wickability |
The ability of a fabric to transfer liquids, usually perspiration, along its fibres and away from the wearer’s skin by
capillary action. |
| Wicking |
Term used to describe how moisture can run along a fibre which in itself may be totally non-absorbent. This helps with
evaporation of moisture into the atmosphere. Although moisture may sometimes appear to be absorbed by the fabric, it is only
held within a spun, crimped or textured fibre combination, resting on the surface of the fibres. If moisture is not absorbed
the fabric dries more quickly, i.e. the moisture is wicked along the fibres either to become evaporated or to be absorbed by
outer layers of clothing. |
| Wick-proof |
A term used to describe a fabric, mostly tyre fabric, which shows no air wicking.. |
| Wide Elastic Fabric |
An elastic fabric that is at least 150mm in width.
|
| wide Legs |
Pants or jeans that are cut extra full through the legs. |
| Wide Wales |
Materials made by the various degree twill weave–15, 20, 27, 45, 63, 70, and 75 degrees. To make these effective in cloth
form twelve to twenty-four harnesses have to be used in the loom. The material has a diagonal appearance on its face. Wales
are distinct in windbreakers, mackinac cloth, tablecloths of the fancy type, and novelty fabrics. |
Widening
|
In knitting. A term used to describe the movement of loops outwards at the selvedge of a piece of fabric. The result of such
movement is an increase in the number of loops in the succeeding course (usually by one loop), thus widening the fabric. The
term is used both to describe the action itself and the site of it. |
| Width |
A transverse measurement of a material, i.e. from side to side, or at right angles to the length.
1. In woven fabrics, the width is the distance from selvedge to selvedge.
2. In knit fabrics, the width of flat knit fabric is measured from edge to edge.
3. In ribbons, the width is expressed by the number of the line, or ligne.
4. In woollens and worsteds, in quarters, one-quarter measuring nine inches.
5. The designations were formerly described (especially wool goods) as: narrow (27in. or less), wide (54in.), single width
(36in. or less) and double width (48in.to 60in.).
. |
Width in Reed
|
Also called Loom width. The width of the warp sheet at the reed.
|
| Width, Fabric |
Unless otherwise specified, the distance from edge to edge of a fabric when laid flat on a table without tension. In the case
of commercial dispute the measurement should be made after the fabric has been conditioned in a standard atmosphere for esting . When buying and selling fabric it is normal to specify the basis on which the width is to be assessed e.g.,
overall, within limits, or usable width (which implies within stenter pin marks). |
| Width-wise Direction |
In textiles, the direction in a machine-made fabric perpendicular to the direction of movement, the fabric followed in the
manufacturing machine. |
| Wig |
Detachable hairpieces used on the baldheads of mannequins. They are usually made of synthetic yet realistic fibres that can
be arranged into life-like hairstyles. Wigs may also be quite decorative and made of yarn, rope, papier-mâché, wood shavings,
etc. |
| Wigan |
Dull-finish, plain weave cotton cloth, usually in dark colours but resembling sheeting. Main use is as a backing or
interfacing in men’s jackets, and coats. |
| Wigan Finish |
A firm, starched, plain calendered finish without lustre, applied to light weight sheetings and print fabrics.
|
Wiglet
|
A small wig used especially to enhance a hairstyle.
|
| Wild Silk |
Fibres extruded by insect larvae other than bombyx mori. Wild silk is produced by the undomesticated varieties of silkworm.
These wild silkworm lives outside on the leaves of certain oak-like trees in China, India and Japan. The best known variety
is Tussah silk, which has a honey colour, is stronger than cultivated silk, and is less readily attacked by acid and alkali.
It is easily recognised under the microscope by its uneven width, fine lines along the length, cross markings at intervals,
and patches of silk gum. It also appears to be flatter.
In this type of fibres, the colouring matter is normally distributed throughout the fibre, unlike cultivated silks in which
the colour is contained mainly in the gum and can be easily removed by boiling off.
These wide, irregular filaments yield coarser, more uneven yarns and fabrics than those from the cultivated silk. Wild silks
are not easily bleached or readily dyed; mostly dyed only in dark colours. In wild silk fabric types such as shantung, the
unevenness of texture is not considered as a defect but a desired characteristic effect. Apart from tussah silk, some of the
other wild silk types include: eri, muga, anaphe, kuriwata, and gonometa postica. |
| Wildness |
A ruffled appearance of the surface fibres in slivers, slubbings, rovings, and yams. Note: wildness may be due to the
processing of these products under dry atmospheric conditions which causes increased inter-fibre friction and
static-electricity troubles. The static charges cause mutual fibre repulsion and prevent fibres from taking up normal orderly
positions in the respective products |
| willesden Process |
A waterproofing process applied to canvas, rope or other cellulose material, in which the material is passed through
ammoniacal copper oxide and pressed between hot calenders and dried, giving the surface a green varnish-like appearance. This
is one of several methods of partially dissolving cellulose fibres and then letting them harden to form a glossy,
varnish-like, or hardened surface. |
Willey
|
A machine consisting of bladed or pinned rollers for opening, cleaning and mixing staple fibre material as a preliminary to
scouring (for greasy wool) or carding for most animal and synthetic fibres. |
| Williams Unit |
A machine for vat colour reduction in a very small volume of liquid. It is built with very narrow spaced apertures in a
steam-heated jacket. Also used for washing. |
| Willow |
1. Stiff fabric woven from esparto grass and cotton; the resultant fabric is similar to sparterie. Used for making the
foundations of hats. See also Sparterie.
2. The process of opening and removing impurities from wool or cotton waste.
3. The machine used for willow processing. |
Wilton Carpet
|
Originated in Wilton, England, is a variety of Brussels carpet. Woven in the same manner as Brussels, it is possible to
cause some of the yarn to become buried in the back in order to add resiliency and quality.
. |
| Wimple |
A cloth covering worn over the head and around the neck and chin especially by women in the late medieval period and by some
nuns. |
| Wincey |
A lightweight fabric of flannel type, finer in texture than baby flannel. Originally made with a cotton warp and a wool weft
>but it may now be made from mixture yarns containing wool.
. |
| Winceyette |
A soft, light to medium-weight, twill weave, cotton fabric with a raised finish on one or both sides to give a warm soft
feel. Not a costly fabric. Made in white, plain colours, and in printed styles. Washes well. Used extensively for nightwear,
babywear, sheets, pillowcases. A very flammable fabric unless treated. |
| Winch |
A machine designed for solution treatment (washing, scouring, dyeing, etc.) of piece goods while in the form of rope or
endless lengths. It consists of an open vat for the solution and circular or elliptical rollers which move the fabric along.
Most of the fabric is in the bath in a slack or tensionless state. |
Winch Dyeing Machine
|
A dyeing machine consisting of a dye vessel fitted with a drive winch which rotates and draws a length of fabric, normally
joined end to end, through the liquor. |
| Wind Multiple |
The winding of two or more ends onto a tube or cone in parallel form so that the ends form a compact, flat ribbon. |
| Wind Ratio |
The number of wraps wound on a take-up package while the traverse completes a full stroke in one direction. |
| Wind-bar |
A trade name for a water-repellent windbreaker-type cotton fabric. Used for children’s snowsuits, raincoats, and active
sportswear such as ski clothing. |
| wind-breaker |
An outer jacket made of wind-resistant material. |
windbreaker Cloth
|
A group of closely woven fabrics used for sports jackets designed to prevent passage of air with a minimum of porosity |
| Wind-cord |
Also called Wind lace. A type of wide lace that is sewn around a rubber hose. Placed around the edges of a door of an
automobile to prevent drafts; also used as weather stripping, insulation. |
| Winder |
A machine used for transferring yam from one package to another. |
| Winder’s Waste |
A silk waste obtained during the operation of winding the raw silk on bobbins. It is used for spun silk. |
| Winding |
Usually the process of transferring yarn or thread from one type of package to another, i.e. unwinding from one package and
laying on to another package. Other forms of winding yarn are resorted to when deemed essential. |
| Winding Direction |
The winding direction of yarns and twists on spools is marked with the small letters ‘p’ and ‘q’. The take up of a yarn or
twist about the head of the spool takes effect according to the direction of turns of the thread and the winding direction.
1. p–Winding.
Viewed from the front end of the spool, the end of thread fall of left. p - winding and S-twist has the tendency to open the
yarn. p-winding and Z-twist has the tendency to close the yarn.
2. q–Winding.
Viewed from the front end of the spool, the end of thread fall of right. q-winding and S-twist has the tendency to open the
yarn. q-winding and Z-twist has the tendency to close the yarn. |
| Winding Pattern |
Also called Ribboning. Winding defect. The (undesirable) patterns generated by over-lapping helices formed during winding.
The patterning is a function of the package diameter. |
| winding-on Angle |
Also called Angle of lead. In ring spinning or ring twisting, the angle formed at the traveller between a package radius and
the tangent to the package surface. |
| windlace |
See Windcord |
| Window |
See Store window. |
| Window Schedule |
Literally a schedule of upcoming displays to be installed. |
| Windowless Windows |
Similar to the open back window, but there is no dais or platform that separates it from the store. All displays are set on
the floor, using props and risers to raise them. This window is popular in malls and boutiques, which have ample store
frontage but very limited selling space. |
| windowpane |
A design that looks like a windowpane, with narrow bands of one color forming an over-check that encloses rectangles of
another ground colour. |
| Windowpane Plaid |
Large bar-like design resembling windowpanes. |
Window-paning
|
Fabric defect due to non-uniform yarn. Term refers to the transparency of the fabric caused when thin portions of yarn become
grouped together. |
| Windows |
In zippers, the openings in pin-lock and cam-lock sliders through which the locking pin and cams, respectively, may extend. |
| Windproof |
The ability of a fabric or membrane to block the passage of external air through it. In cold climatic conditions, windproof
garments help to keep the wearer warm. |
| Wind-resistant |
A limited form of wind proofing. |
| Windsor Tie |
A broad necktie usually tied in a loose bow. |
| Wine |
A dark red. Shade |
| Wing Collar |
A collar with projections which cover shoulder seams of bodices and doublets. |
| Wing Tip |
A shoe having a wing tip, namely a toecap having a point that extends back toward the throat of the shoe and curving sides
that extends toward the shank |
| Winter Lace |
A general term for lace with close, firm construction. |
| Wintuk |
Registered trademark of DuPont for acrylic yarns and fabrics made of mono-component and bi-component orlon acrylic staple
fibre. |
| Wire |
In pile weaving, a metal strip or rod that is inserted during weaving between raised pile warp threads and the foundation of
a fabric to form loops of pile above the foundation. It is either ‘bladed’ (a small blade on the upper edge of the strip at
one end) so that when it is withdrawn the loops are severed to form a cut pile, or ‘unbladed’ when a loop pile is left on
withdrawal. It can be ‘round’ (for the production of ‘cord’ carpets) or ‘flat’ (for Brussels and Wilton carpets). ‘Profile’
wires are flat wires having an upper edge of irregular outline, and are used to produce loops of different heights across the
width of the carpet. When the wire is withdrawn, loops of the preceding row corresponding to low parts of the wire are robbed
of yarn and variations in pile height are thereby produced.
‘Slotted’ wires are used in the hand-weaving of velvet and for the production of high-pile rugs. The wires are grooved along
the upper surface, and a trevet or knife, guided by the slot, is drawn by the weaver across the loops to form a cut pile. |
Wire Cloth
|
1. A fabric formed by interlacing metallic wire. Used for sieves and fire screens. Made in a plain, open weave of a variety
of metals, which may be painted, galvanized or rust-proofed.
2. A very fine mesh wire cloth woven at an angle is used for filtering purposes.
3. A fabric of woven metallic wire, as for strainers. |
| Wire Rope |
A flexible, resilient rope made completely or partly of wires. |
| Wire Selvedge |
See Plain selvedge. |
wire Velvet
|
This cloth employs a series of rods or wires to obtain a pile effect. The wires are located under the pile warp and when they
are withdrawn cause the face of the goods to have regular rows of loops across it. The rod, provided one end has a sharp
blade on it, will cut these loops and give the cloth a cut-pile effect. |
| Wires per Unit Length |
In woven pile yarn floor covering, the number of binding sites per unit of floor covering length; wires in the width-wise
direction being the usual means of forming the pile. |
| Wire-twisted Yarn |
See Metallic asbestos yarn. |
| Wiry End |
See Tight twist end. |
| Woad |
A blue, natural dyestuff prepared by fermenting the leaves of the woad plant, isatis tinctoria. The essential constituent,
indigotin, is identified with that of indigo. It was mainly used on wool in olden days. |
| Wollen Blended |
Term describes yarn spun on the condenser system and having wool as the main component, or describes fabrics or garments made
from such yarns. |
| Women's |
The tem refers to designs suitable for the women's market. |
| Wood Fabric |
A plain weave fabric made with warp of hard-spun cotton or raw silk and weft of several fine wood shavings in fibrous form in
one shed altered with one or more cotton yarns in the next shed. Was used for hat frames, hat linings and embroidery canvas. |
| Wood Grain |
Fabric defect, identified by weftwise streaks resembling wood grain in lumber. The defect is usually due to strained filling
or quilling, the tension being more noticeable near the butt of the quill. |
| Wood Tone Buttons |
Buttons that simulate a wood appearance. |
| Wooden Jointed Arm |
An articulated wooden or plastic arm which fits into a mannequin's shoulder fitting and is designed to wear a realistic hand
at the wrist fitting. Under shirt, jacket or coat, the jointed arm can be positioned into a variety of realistic poses and
only the flesh-coloured hand is visible. A pocket or paddle hand may also be used with this re-positionable arm. |
| Wood-pulp Yarns |
Yarns made almost entirely of paper made of wood pulp. The yarns are made from long narrow strips of thin, moistened paper,
which are loosely or tightly spun or twisted. Hardening or softening solutions can be used. Another method starts with a
moist web of pulp as it comes from the press rolls of the paper machine. It is divided by various methods, into strips or
ribbons and twisted and rolled into yarns. Used for flat-weave carpets, summer floor coverings, etc. |
Woof
|
Comes from the Anglo-Saxon ‘Owef’. It is another name for warp or warp yarn but sometimes, chiefly in advertising textiles,
the word has been used to imply filling yarn and made to interchange with the other term, weft. It is apparently much safer
to use the terms warp and filling in this country; in the carpet trade and in hand weaving, however, weft is used instead of
the American term, filling. |
| Wool |
Wool is a textile fibre obtained from coat of sheep and other mammals such as vicunas, camels, mohair goats, and angora cats.
The fibre most commonly used is that of sheep.
Sheep's wool can be differentiated by various types according to the species of animal and the part of the body from which it
is taken.
Its capacity to be spun into yarn is influenced primarily by the length, the curl, the elasticity, and the fineness. The
quality instead is influenced by the species, the breeding, and the colour.
Shearing is followed by the separation of the flocks of wool from the back, sides, and the neck, more fine and uniform than
that which comes from the legs, which is less valuable. The flocks are beaten to remove impurities and then washed. After
drying the wads of wool are examined, carded, spun into yarns and made into fabric. The type of fabric depends on the yarn
used and can be combed or carded. The longest fibres are used for combed fabrics and the shorter for carded.
The best quality wool comes from Australia (Merinos, Southdown), Argentina, and Uruguay. From Europe comes the Spanish
Merinos.
Wool offers many qualities of which one is the capacity to absorb. It has the ability to absorb humidity without feeling wet.
It is also a non-conductor and a great insulator from cold and heat; it has a good capacity to resist wrinkling, is elastic,
and is difficult to tear. It is found in shirts only for particular sports and winter uses. |
| Wool Base |
Oven-dried scoured wool free of alcohol extractable matter, vegetable matter, and all impurities. |
| Wool Classification |
There are about forty breeds of sheep today, and counting the cross breeds the total is around 210 distinct grades and types.
The classification follows:
1. Class One Wools: Wools of the merino-breed type; staple length is from one inch up to five inches. Included are Ohi
Merino, Silesian of Austria, Saxony of Germany, Rambouillet of France, Australian, South American, South African, New Zealand
and also small amounts of these sheep in Denmark, Italy, Spain, and Sweden.
2. Class Two Wools: The better types of the so-called "hardy types" which originated in England, Scotland, Ireland, and
Wales, and are now raised throughout the world. Staple fibre ranges from two inches to around eight inches. In this class are
Bampton, Berkshire, Blackface of Scotland, Cornish, Cornwall, Devonshire, Dorset, Canadian wools, Hampshire, Hereford,
Exmoor, Kent, Norfolk, Shropshire, Southdown, Oxford, Sussex, Welsh Mountain, Wiltshire, Westmoreland, West Riding of
England, Irish, and Ryeland.
3. Class Three Wools: The so-called "hardy types" which originated in the British Isles and are now raised throughout the
world. These types are inferior to those in class Two in all respects but provide good to excellent service in apparel and
garments made from them. Staple ranges from four to twelve or more inches in length. Known as lustre wools, included in this
class are: The United Kingdom Wools such as Lincoln from Lincoln Country. Leicester from Leicester County, Cotswold from
Gloucester County; Cheviot from the lowlands and Highlands of Scotland; Romney Marsh from Kent Country, Shetland; Harris and
Lewis Islands and Sheep from the neighbouring islands in the Hebrides.
4. Class Four Wools: Those sheep in wool grading that cannot be classed in one of the first three groups; the result of mixed
breeding; the fibre is irregular and ranges from one inch to sixteen or more inches in staple length. The sheep are known as
half-breeds, semi-lustre or demi-lustre sheep. The wool is used chiefly for making carpets and rugs and low-priced clothing.
5. Class Five Wools: This group is not truly a sheep classification but the animals from which the fibres are obtained are
akin to those of the wool fibre and are therefore listed. Included are Arabian, Bokharan, Persian lamb, and comparable stock
raised in many parts of the world. |
| wool Crêpe |
Soft, drapy fabric for dresses, usually lightweight but heavier types may be used for ladies’ suits. A slack weave fabric
with typical crêpe surface. Sometimes the wrong side appears smooth by comparison. |
| Wool Felt |
A textile composed wholly of any one or combination of new, reprocessed, or reused wool fibre, physically interlocked by the
inherent felting properties of wool and produced by a suitable combination of mechanical work, chemical action, moisture and
heat, but without weaving, knitting, stitching, thermal bonding or adhesives. |
| Wool Hygrosopy |
See Hygroscopic property. |
| Wool Mousseline |
Made from worsted yarn into a plain or printed lightweight wool fabric. Excellent for dresses. |
| Wool Oil |
A lubricant applied to wool or hair fibres to facilitate subsequent processing. |
| Wool Products Labelling Act |
This act, effective July 15, 1941, stipulates the following definitions under Section 2, page 21:
1. The term "wool" means the fibre from the fleeces of the sheep or lamb, or hair of the Angora or Cashmere goat (and may
include the so-called specialty fibres from the hair of the camel. Alpaca, llama, and vicuna) which has never been reclaimed
from any woven or felted wool product.
2. The term ‘reprocessed wool’ means the resulting fibre when wool has been woven of felted into a wool product, which,
>without ever having been utilized in any way by the ultimate consumer, subsequently has been made into a fibrous state.
3. The term ‘reused wool’ means the resulting fibre when wool or reprocessed wool has been spun, woven, knitted, or felted
into a wool product, which after having been used in any way by the ultimate consumer, subsequently has been made into a
ibrous state. |
| Wool Scouring Test |
A procedure to determine the yield of certain wools. |
| Wool Sorter’s Disease |
A term used in certain parlance to describe the anthrax disease. Mohair, Camel's hair, Alpaca, and Cashmere most liable to
carry infection. |
| Wool Sorting |
A process by which fleece or skin wool is divided up into various qualities. It is usually carried out by the user. |
| Wool Staple |
In grease wool, a tuft or lock of fibres, which naturally cling together, as found in a fleece. |
| Wool Stretch Cord |
Fabric having the appearance of ribbed tweed, but with elastane yarn woven into it. Is hardwearing, comfortable, warm, crease
>resistant and washable. Used for men’s ready-made trousers. |
| Wool Top |
Also referred to as worsted top, it is the continuous sliver form of long, choice woollen fibres, which are to be
manufactured ultimately into worsted yarn. The combing operation takes out the short fibres from the desired, choice stock.
These are called noil. Worsted top contracts are made in units of 5,000 pounds |
| Wool Waste |
There are two classes of waste known as ‘hard’ and ‘soft’, and their treatment differs according to the class. Hard waste is
essentially that from spinning frames, reeling and winding machines and all other waste of a thready nature. Soft waste comes
from earlier processes where the fibres are relatively little twisted, felted, or compacted. |
| Wool Work |
Any type of art or needlework in which wool yarn is used. Includes wool worked on canvas that produces a tapestry-like
effect. |
| Wool, Carbonised and Neutralized |
See Carbonized and neutralized wool |
| Wool, Pulled |
See Pulled wool. |
| Wool, Reprocessed |
See Reprocessed wool. |
| wool/Polyester Flannel |
Thick warm fabric made from wool with polyester and other fibres. Used for coats, jackets, capes, and children’s coats. |
| Wool-backed Cloth |
A backed fabric in which wool is used for the extra warp or weft, which appears on the back. The face is often of silk as
with wool-backed satin |
| Wool-dyed |
Wool yarn or fabric made from wool, which has been stock dyed before being spun into yarn. ‘stock dyed’ is the preferred
term. |
| Woollen |
Descriptive of yarns, or fabrics or garments made from yarns, which have been produced on the condenser system, wholly from
wool fibres, new or otherwise. As an adjective appertaining to wool generally, the term 'wool' and not 'woollen' is
recommended. The trade name 'woollen-spun' is applied to staple yarn produced by carding, condensing, and spinning on
machinery originally designed for the processing of wool into yarn: it is descriptive of the processing technique and not
fibre content. Since the yarn may not contain any wool fibre, the alternative condenser spun is preferable. |
| Woollen Broadcloth |
A type of fabric, made from fine woollen yarns in a twill weave, heavily milled (traditionally approximately 230cm in the
loom for 140cm finished) and given a dress-face finish. It is usually dyed in dark colours. |
| Woollen Count |
Traditional counts depend upon the spinning system used because a different hank length is employed in each case, e.g. 1/24s
woollen count means that, 24 hanks each 256yd long weigh 1 lb. |
| Woollen Finish |
A napping treatment given to some cotton fabrics to make them appear like woollens, e.g. Flannelette, Challis, Blanket cloth,Canton flannel, Domete flannel. |
| Woollen System |
A spinning system employing a minimum of drafting and producing yarns of low bulk density. |
| Woollen, Blended |
Descriptive of yarns spun on the condenser system and having wool as the main component, or descriptive of fabrics or
garments made from such yarns |
| Woollens |
Cloth made from woollen yarn but not always 100 % wool in content. The average woollen has a rather fuzzy surface, does not
shine with wear, may hold the crease well, has nap and in the majority of cases, is dyed. Woollen finish is rather easily
recognized on fabrics to determine the difference between this cloth and a worsted material. |
| Woollen-spun |
The trade name ‘woollen-spun’ is applied to staple yarn produced by carding, condensing, and spinning on machinery originally
designed for the processing of wool into yarn: it is descriptive of the processing technique and not fibre content. Since the
yarn may not contain any wool fibre, the alternative condenser spun is preferable. |
| Woollen-type Fabric |
A fabric manufactured wholly from woollen-type (woollen-spun) yarns, or from cotton warp and woollen type (woollen-spun)
weft, and which may or may not contain decoration threads of other fibres. |
| Wool-like |
Refers to a non-wool fabric with a warm hand that feels like natural wool. |
| Woolly |
A garment made from wool, especially underclothing of knitted wool; usually used in plural. |
| Woolmark |
This trademark indicates goods made of pure new wool that meet the quality standards of the International Wool Secretariat.
These quality assurances include fastness to light and liquid, abrasion resistance and tensile strength.
|
| Work In Progress |
The amount of work within the production process. This is related to the production technique employed and to the efficiency
with which it is managed. Work in progress is expected to rise in proportion to total output. Working Elongation
Also called WE. Elongation, which immediately recovers, when strain is removed.
|
| Work-place Engineering |
Designing and making a work place to enable an operator to work more efficiently. |
| Workwear |
Garments designed chiefly to provide a measure of general protection in use. Normally understood, to exclude garments for
protection against specific hazards where the term ‘protective clothing’ is more generally used. |
| Worming |
A nautical term for filling up the divisions between the lay (strands) of a rope by passing a spun yarn along in it in order
to obtain a smooth surface. |
| Worsted |
1. Yarn. Worsted yarn is spun from long staple, wool fibres, which have been carded, and either gilled or combed, or both.
Worsted yarn is smooth surfaced and blends very well with other fibres.
2. Fabric. Worsted fabric is manufactured wholly from worsted yarns, except that decoration threads of other fibres may be
present. Worsted clothes are usually very closely woven, smooth to touch, light, springy, durable. It holds creases well and
do not stain easily. woollen materials. |
| Worsted Count |
Traditional counts depend upon the spinning system used because a different hank length is employed in each case, e.g. 1/24s worsted count means that, 24 hanks each 560yd long weigh 1 lb. |
| Worsted Flannel |
A twill weave fabric, more closely woven and harder than wool flannel. Made in a variety of weights. Can have a very slight nap on one side. Tailors very well. Presses well and holds a hard crease. Used for men's suits, jackets and trousers, Women's coats, suits, skirts, and tailored dresses.
|
| Worsted System |
Spinning of worsted yarns from medium or longer wools, alpaca and mohair. Generally the processes employed are carding, combing, drawing and spinning. The short fibres or noils are removed in combing and the resultant yarn is rather compact with the fibres placed parallel. The process is quite different from the woollen system. |
| Worsted Yarn |
Worsted yarn is spun from long staple, wool fibres, which have been carded, and either gilled or combed, or both. Worsted yarn is smooth surfaced and blends very well with other fibres. Some of the more popular yarns are: solid colour yarn, mixture or ingrain yarn, marl yarn, single mottle yarn, mélange yarn, etc. |
| Worsted Serge |
Unfinished worsted, wool, cotton, silk, rayon, and synthetics. A very distinct twill (2 up/2 down), which shows on both sides of the fabric. On the face, the distinct diagonal runs from the lower left to the upper right - piece dyed. Has a smooth, hard finish that wears exceptionally well but will shine with use. The shine cannot be removed permanently. It is a good cloth in tailoring as it drapes and clings very well. Made in various weights. Unfinished worsted and wool are not quite as clear on the surface. French Sere is made of very fine soft yarns and has a very fine twill. It is used for dresses or very soft suits. |
| Worsted, Blended |
Term describes yarns in which the fibres are reasonably parallel and have combed wool as the main component, or describes fabrics or garments made from such yarns. |
| Worsteds |
A wide range of fabrics are made from worsted yarn and are compactly made from smooth, uniform, well-twisted yarns. Little finishing is necessary in these clear surface materials. Plain or fancy weaves are used and the cloth is usually yarn-dyed but piece-dyed fabrics are also popular. Worsted blends are much the vogue today since the major fibres used, nylon and polyester; provide very good service to the consumer. Ideal for summer wear by men and women, some of the fabrics in this family include plain weave worsted, dress goods, gabardine, crepe, serge, tropical, etc. |
| Worsted-spun |
>Staple yarns and fabrics, produced by the worsted system of yarn spinning as distinct from systems originally designed for spinning of woollen materials. |
| Worsted-weight Yarns |
These yarns knit to a gauge of 4-1/2 to 5 stitches per inch on size 7, 8, or 9 US needles. These yarns have approximately 850-1100 yards per pound. This category of yarns is the main weight of yarns used to make sweaters, and contains some of the yarns, which are very fluffy like Mohairs and Angoras. |
| Wound Packages |
Yarn wound on formers which facilitate convenient handling. Note: in some cases the former may be withdrawn before further processing. |
| Woven Check Fabric |
A fabric with a woven check pattern. Woven check fabrics are produced as a combination of weave and colour. The usual checks can be further developed to obtain more variety by using coloured twist yarns instead of solid colours, by the use of different colour orders and different weaves. |
| Woven Cover Factor |
In weaving, a measure that indicates the extent to which the area of a woven fabric is covered by one set of threads; warp ends or weft picks. For any woven fabric, there is two cover factors: warp cover factor and weft cover factor.
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| Woven Crêpe |
These are produced by the use of hard twisted ‘S’ and ‘Z’ direction yarns which cause surface distortion of fabric during finishing or by the use of particularly constructed crêpe weave-types which break up the fabric surface into a random series of interlacings with no visible repeat. |
| Woven Fabrics |
Double thread system, lengthwise (warp) and crosswise (weft), the two crossing one another at right angles, and kept together by means of interlacing (binding). Manufactured on conventional automatic looms, projectile looms, gripper looms and jet looms.
Structure produced when at least two sets of strands are interlaced, usually at right angles to each other, according to a predetermined pattern of interlacing, and such that at least one set is parallel to the axis along the lengthwise direction of the fabric.
In their simple form these consist of two series of threads, ‘warp’ and ‘weft’, interlaced at right angles to each other. The warp threads run the length of the fabric and the weft threads run across the width.
As the inter-lacings become less frequent, fabric firmness declines; lateral movement of yarns become increasingly easier as the fabric loses stability.
Figured fabrics often contain large inter-lacings in the figured part but the looseness effect will be countered by having the ground inter-lacings much tighter to ensure a stabilising effect. Some figured fabrics and some novelty fabrics contain too many large inter-lacings which can be easily caught or frayed in wear, or which produce an overall loose effect and general lack of stability in the fabric.
The effect of yarn thickness and interlacing frequency on structural closeness mentioned above has a strong influence on the weaving process, and in fact maximum closeness is rarely attempted because of the chafing of yarns which would occur as they were interlaced. Warp yarns are under heavy tension and tend to lie straighter than the weft yarns, which are not under such tension. Fabrics are therefore usually more extensible in the weft direction than in the warp. The difference is normally small and hardly noticeable except in wool fabrics where the elasticity of the yarns will show the difference. The extra stability of the warp direction is a convenience because in most garments long dimensions run that way, and often waistbands and belts are cut in the warp direction for the extra stability offered.
The fact that yarns are not solid enables the final closing-up to be achieved by finishing process and this can be enhanced by raising surface fibre from yarns, by causing felting and drawing together of yarns in wool fabrics, or by pressure processes which flatten the yarns and close up spaces. The success of finishing processes in this respect depends on the use of appropriate and the correct spacing of the structure in the loom.
It must not be assumed, however, that the object should always be to produce a close dense fabric, because textural requirements often dictate otherwise. If the woven structure is deliberately made with spaces visible between yarns - as in a chiffon for example, then the possibility of the fabric being distorted by sideways slipping of yarns must be accepted in order to achieve the desired light filmy effect. The woven structure is not ideal for open textures; lace or certain types of knitted structures are better.
It must not be assumed either that warp and weft yarns must be equal in thickness and spacing - they can vary in both respects, thus increasing the variety of woven fabrics.
There are three basic types of weave, namely ‘Plain’, ‘Twill’, and ‘Satin’. The variations within each type and the combination of types provide hundreds of different interlacing patterns. The three basic types of weaves can be used either individually or in combination so that almost limitless variety in woven fabrics is possible when the other variety factors of yarn types and use of colour are taken into account, but the yarn thickness and texture combined with yarn spacing and frequency of interlacing are the significant factors of woven fabric stability. |
| Woven Flat-ruche |
A ruche made from a narrow woven tape with warp patterning, but without pile forming elements. |
| Woven Geotextile |
A geotextile produced by interlacing, usually at right angles, two or more sets of yarns, fibres, filaments, tapes or other elements. |
| Woven Interfacings |
These interfacings are all grained, even if they are iron-on varieties. They are cut to the same grain as the garment section. Chosen according to the type and weight of fabric. |
| Woven Label |
A length of narrow fabric woven on jacquard loom, incorporating names, logos, and/or text to identify the article to which the label is attached, and to give instructions and other details. Woven labels can be produced on narrow fabric looms or slit from a fabric. |
| Woven Plush |
A pile fabric, with a longer and less dense pile than that of velvet. The yarns can be almost any, natural or synthetic. Many of the fabrics are now washable. Made in various weights for dresses, curtains, drapes and upholstery. |
| Woven Rib Fabric |
A fabric whose surface consists of warp way (weft rib) or weft-way (warp rib) raised lines or ridges.
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| Woven Royal Rib |
A plain weave fabric with a warp-way rib produced by taped ends and a high weft sett. |
| Woven Stretch Fabrics |
A woven fabric that is capable of at least 20% stretch in either warp or weft direction, or both, under loads and conditions encountered in use, and of almost complete recovery on removal of the load.
The term stretch fabric is sometimes applied to knitted and other types of fabrics, which are capable of high stretch and recovery. |
| Wovens |
Term usually used to indicate woven fabrics. |
| W-pile |
In pile fabric. The short pieces of cut pile yarn having the shape of the letter ‘W’. |
| Wrap |
An outer garment, as a coat or shawl. |
| Wrap Spinning |
A system for manufacturing wrap-spun yarn |
| Wrap Spinning |
See Hollow spindle spinning. |
| Wrap Top/Surplice Top |
Also called Surplice top. A bodice created by the cross-wrapping of fabric; may be in front or back, and associated with a high or low neckline. |
| Wrap Yarn |
1. A fibrous yarn covered with other yarn(s) to bind projecting fibre ends to the main body. It is commonly used for interlinings to prevent fibre ends from penetrating the outer fabric.
2. Any yarn used in embroidery plating or wrap striping. |
| Wraparound |
A garment, as a dress, made with a full-length opening and adjusted to the figure by wrapping around |
| Wrap-in¬ |
A method of completing a package after a break by wrapping the two ends together on the package without splicing or tying a knot. |
| Wrapped Yarn |
See wrap-spun yarn. |
| Wrapper |
An article of clothing worn wrapped around the body. |
| Wrapper Fibres |
Fibres, which wrap around the main body of a staple fibre yarn during yarn formation in the production of Open-end spinning and fasciated yarn |
| Wrap-spun Yarn |
A yarn with a twist-less core wrapped with a binder and normally produced by hollow spindle spinning. |
| Wreath |
Something intertwined into a circular shape, especially a garland or a chaplet |
| Wrinkle |
A fabric defect, which manifests on the fabric surface, as an objectionable ridge or furrow generally short and irregular in shape. The wrinkle is caused by unintentional contraction, folding, etc., during wearing or washing. Usually it can be removed by steaming or pressing. In durable press, creases are not removable and there is an absence of wrinkles. Not to be confused with crease. |
| Wrinkle Recovery |
Also called Crease recovery. That property of a fabric, which by its own resilience enables it to recover from folding deformations. Wool fabrics have the greatest natural resilience. Thermoplastic, synthetic fibres and chemically treated cotton and synthetic also exhibit considerable wrinkle recovery. |
| Wrinkle Resist Finish |
Also called Crease resist finish. A finishing process employed on cellulose and blend fabrics, which imparts increased recovery from wrinkling in use. The fabric is usually treated with a synthetic resin.
One of the most widely used procedures is to soak the fabric or garment with a solution of a reagent that can infiltrate the fabric. Subsequently the treated material is dried and cured under the influence of a catalyst and heat, resulting in cross-linking of the fabric structure. The finish is durable to a great extent to washing and usage. |
| Wrinkle Resistance |
That property and capacity of a textile material, which enables it to resist the formation of wrinkles when subjected to a folding deformation and/or recover from creasing. Molecular cross-linking is one of the processes employed to improve crease resistance. Though this is the preferred term, ‘crease resistance’ is also a term commonly used by many. |
| Wrist |
A term related to garment sizing. In anatomy, the joint which articulates between the end of the lower arm and the hand. |
| Wrist Girth |
A term related to garment sizing. In body measurements, the circumference over the prominence of the inner and outer forearm bones. |
| Wristband Wristlet |
A band encircling the wrist, especially one that is close-fitting, knitted, and attached to the top of a glove or end of a sleeve |
| Wristlet |
A band encircling the wrist, especially one that is close-fitting, knitted, and attached to the top of a glove or end of a sleeve. |
| Wrong Colour Pick |
See Mixed filling. |
| Wrong Denting |
Also called Wrong sleying. The drawing-in of one or more ends though the healds or harness in an incorrect order. |
| Wrong Draft |
See Wrong draw. |
| Wrong Draw |
Also called Wrong draft and miss-draw. Fabric defect.
1. In woven fabrics, the warp yarns that do not conform to the required draft plan. It is usually caused by one or more incorrectly drawn warp ends in the harness or reed.
2. In knitted fabrics, warp yarns that do not conform to the intended threading pattern in a warp-knitted fabric. It is usually caused by yarns being drawn into the knitting elements in the wrong sequence. |
| Wrong End |
See Mixed end.. |
| Wrong Lift |
An incorrect interlacing of warp and weft threads caused by a heald shaft or jacquard harness cord being in the incorrect position as a result of a fault in the pattern chain (pattern stitching) or faulty mechanical action, (machine stitching). |
| Wrong Pick |
See Mispick. |
| Wrong Side |
See Back side. |
| Wrong Sleying |
See Wrong denting. |
| WTO |
Acronym for ‘World Trade Organisation’, a body based in Geneva, Switzerland. |
| Wunda Weave |
Trade name for a reputed carpeting product. |
| Wyliecoat |
The term refers chiefly to a Scottish warm undergarment or a petticoat. |
