| T-CLOTH |
A coarse, plain
weave cotton cloth made with approximately the same
number of ends and picks per square inch and heavily
sized. Originally produced in Great Britain and exported
in the loom state to the Orient and other markets. The
name was derived from the mark 'T' of the original
ex-porters. |
| T-SHIRT |
A simple style of
short sleeve shirt, made from cut and sewn knitted
fabric. |
| T.O.T. |
See Twist on
twist. |
| T.P.I. |
See Turns per
inch |
| TAB |
The starting point
of a weave; the term derived from Tabby when used in
relation to plain weave. |
| TABARET |
A finely woven,
yarn-dyed furnishing fabric that has alternate warp
stripes of satin and plain weave. Also called
Tabourette. |
| TABBY |
1. See Plain
weave.
2. A rich silk velvet.
3. A watered effect
produced on by passing the material between engraved
rollers. |
| TABER |
A machine for
testing the abrasion resistance of fabrics. |
| TABLE
COVERINGS |
Fabrics of cotton,
linen, rayon, synthetics and blends are used to cover
tables. Crash, damask, organdy, checked gingham,
dobbies, etc. are some of the main fabric types
used. |
| TABLE
FELT |
See Table
padding. |
| TABLE
LINEN |
Any cloth,
regardless of fibre content, that is suitable for a
table covering. |
| TABLE
PADDING |
Also called 'table
felt'. A soft cotton fabric napped on both sides or
quilted. Used as 'silence cloth'. |
| TABLET
WEAVING |
A method of making
woven plain or patterned narrow fabrics. The warp shed
is controlled by tablets made of thin, stiff material,
e.g. cardboard, plastic, bone, etc. Tablets are usually
about 5 cm to 10 cm square, although other shapes, e.g.
triangles, hexagons, etc., are also used. Each tablet
has a hole at each corner through the warp yarns are
threaded. Rotating the tablets controls the rise and
fall of the warp yarns |
| TABOURETTE |
See
Tabaret |
| TABS |
The ends of a
fabric less than one yard length |
| TACK |
Rubber or rubber
compounds have the property, that causes two layers of
these materials, when pressed together, to adhere at the
area of contact. |
| TACKING |
1. STITCH. Machine
or hand stitching, sometimes decorative to reinforce
parts of a garment. See Bar Tack.
It is to be noted
that in some sections of the industry, this term is used
to mean the same as Basting.
2. IN PROCESSING. Sewing
together of the two selvedges of a fabric that has been
folded length-wise, with the face side in. This is done
to encourage ballooning, and thereby reduce rope
mark-ing during wet processing and also to protect the
face of the fabric in other finishing operations. It
helps to prevent wrinkles, and selvedge curling.
Sometimes also called Bagging. |
| TACKING
CUT |
Fabric defect.
Small holes or cuts along the selvedge of the cloth,
caused by holes remaining after fabric has been tacked
(sewn) along edges to protect face of cloth during wet
finishing. |
| TACKSPUN
FABRIC |
A material made
from a polymer film with backing substrate. The film is
melted by a roller, to which it adheres. As the film and
roller separate a fibrous pile is formed. |
| TACTEL |
A new type of
filament nylon yarn. It is particularly suitable for
making woven and knitted fabrics for
sportswear. |
| TADPOLE
ÉPONGE |
An éponge made
with several plain ends alternating with a loop yarn in
the warp and plain weft. The loops are scattered over
the face. |
| TAFFETA |
Originally taffeta
was a smooth, fine, close, plain-weave, fabric made from
even yarns of shiny filament, usually silk of light or
medium weight. The fabric had a sheen and the stiff
handle produced a rustling noise when worn as a garment.
It was a fairly square fabric so that an even surface
was presented. However, increasing quantities of taffeta
are now made which are not square and they have, more
closely set warp yarns than weft yarns and this produces
a faint rib effect across the fabric. Though originally
a silk fabric, now more likely to be composed of
acetate, triacetate, nylon or blends of these. A stiff
finish is usually given to the fabric to produce the
authentic rustle. It is characteristically crisp with a
faint weft-way rib and is usually plain coloured but can
be printed. It is not hard-wearing, so its use is
confined to evening wear, stiff petticoats, lampshades
and drapes, and small items such as cummerbunds,
artificial flowers, evening bags, stage costumes and
linings. Taffeta is used as a dress blouse fabric or as
a lining and in certain types of lingerie. |
| TAFFETA
GLACÉ |
A changeable
taffeta with a high lustre made with a different colour
in warp and weft. |
| TAFFETA
METALLIQUE |
A taffeta with a
metallic colour effect given in the finish. |
| TAFFETA
RIBBON |
A ribbon of
continuous filament yarn in plain weave, with a
relatively high warp density and a very fine, almost
imperceptible rib, generally with a selvedge of
contrasting weave. |
| TAFFETALINE |
A plain weave
fabric made of waste silk, finished in imitation of
taffeta. Made in various qualities. Mainly used for
lining dress skirts. Also called 'tamtine' |
| TAFFETINE |
A lightweight,
plain weave, slightly stiffened fabric made with closely
spaced organzine warp and coarser cotton, linen or silk
wefts. Used for linings. |
| TAFFETIZED
FABRICS |
A range of cotton
fabrics given a permanent partially glazed surface
finish, which suggests taffeta. |
| TAFFETIZED
FINISH |
A non-permanent
crisp finish applied to fabrics to give a rustle similar
to taffeta. |
| TAG
CLOTH |
See Label
cloth. |
| TAIL |
A length of yarn
wound onto a cheese or cone at the commencement of
winding that protrudes from the main build-up of yarn
and can later be attached to the free end yarn of a
second package during magazine creeling. |
| TAIL END |
The end of a piece
of a fabric, where that piece is finished on the loom.
Opposite of head end. |
| TAILED
COTTON |
A stringy cotton
resulting from the ginning of cotton when it is too
damp. |
| TAILING |
Dyeing defect. A
gradual change in colour along a length of material to
which colorant has been applied by padding or other
continuous techniques. |
| TAILOR'S
CHALK |
Also called Clay.
A piece of flat pipeclay, either square or triangular in
shape, used for making marking cloth |
| TAILOR'S
TACKS |
Same as
Mark-stitch |
| TAILOR'S
TWIST |
A coarse, strong
silk sewing thread used by tailors. |
| TAK
DYEING |
Continuous dyeing
process for carpets. The main steps of the process are:
(a) carpet wetted; (b) dye and auxiliary chemicals
applied; (c) dye fixed in festoon steamer; (d) carpet
washed and dried in one pass through the carpet drying
range |
| TAKE
DOWN |
A device on a
knitting machine that ensures that fabric is removed
from the knitting machine at a constant linear rate or
at a constant tension. |
| TAKE-IN
MACHINE |
See Pull-in
machine. |
| TAKE-UP |
Also called
Contraction. The difference in distance between two
points in a yarn as it lies in a fabric and the same two
points after the yarn has been removed from the fabric
and straightened under specified tension, expressed as a
percentage of the straightened length. |
| TAMBOUR |
A double hoop used
to hold fabric for embroidering. The fabric is stretched
over the inside hoop and held securely in place by the
second hoop |
| TAMBOUR
LACE |
A piece of net is
stretched on a frame and the yarn is drawn by a hooked
or tambour needle through the meshes of the net. Tambour
work is of Eastern origin and the tambour is derived
from the drum or tambourine-shaped form on which the
work is done. In the strictest sense of the word, it is
not the lace, but embroidery. May be made by hand or
machine. |
| TAMISE |
Similar to
Marquisette. |
| TANGLE |
A mass of fibre,
raw stock, yarn, etc |
| TANGLE LACED
FABRIC |
In formed fabrics,
the bonding may be done by tangling the fibres rather
than by stitching or spot binding. |
| TANGLING |
An entangled
condition of two or more layers of tow which have become
intertwined and withdrawn in that state. May shake out
or become disengaged before it reaches the first banding
jet or its guide; if not, a break will occur. Also
called Snarl and Pull- |
| TAPA
CLOTH |
Non-woven cloth,
made of beaten bark fibres of the mulberry tree. Layers
of cleansed bark are beaten with mallets into a web,
which may be made as fine as muslin or tough and
leathery. It is easily bleached, dyed and printed.
Excellent printed designs are applied by primitive
means. It does serve for apparel and decorative use
among the natives of the Pacific Islands. Usage mostly
limited to the Pacific Islands |
| TAPE |
1. A single ply
narrow fabric, usually of plain-weave, sometimes
knitted, used in non-load bearing applications or
reinforcing of fabrics to resist wear and deformation.
See also Webbing.
2. A long narrow flat structure
with textile-like properties made from thermoplastic
polymer, pa-per, or other appropriate
material. |
| TAPE
ENDS |
In zippers, the
tape extending beyond the stops at either or both ends
of the stringers. |
| TAPE
RUCHE |
See under
Ruche. |
| TAPE
SELVEDGE |
A closely woven,
tape-like selvedge, which consists of two or more
additional threads woven in basket weave, differing in
construction and appearance from the body of the fabric.
This gives the fabric, added strength and also help
resist curling |
| TAPE-FINISHED
HEM |
A raw edge of a
garment or household textile that is finished by
attaching and stitching a seam,-binding tape to cover
the raw edge. |
| TAPED
ENDS |
Weaving defect.
Two or more warp yarns drawn through the healds and reed
as one as a result of being stuck together after sizing
process. |
| TAPED
SEAM |
A seam which
includes straight tape. Normally used to prevent
stretching and for strength. |
| TAPERED
CONES |
See under
Biconical package. |
| TAPESTRY |
Highly ornamental
fabric, woven on a Jacquard loom, which has an
embroidered look. Cotton and worsted yarns are used in
many colors, usually showing a picture. A heavy fabric
used upholstery, curtains and bedspreads. Tapestry
sometimes comes into fashion for clothes and is then
made lighter in weight. |
| TAPESTRY
CARPET |
A patterned carpet
woven by the single pile Wilton process, in which a
warp, printed before weaving, is used to produce the
design. When the pile is cut, the carpet is known as
tapestry velvet. |
| TAPESTRY VELVET
CARPET |
A cut-pile carpet
woven from a printed-pile warp or single frame of yarn.
It was traditionally woven on a tapestry carpet loom
with bladed wires. |
| TAPESTRY
WEAVE |
A construction in
which wefts are battened so closely as to conceal the
warps. Used especially in Navajo weaving. |
| TAPPA
CLOTH |
A white fabric
made by beating together the bast or bark of the paper
mulberry tree. This is done by hand by the natives of
the Marquesas Islands. The colour of tappa cloth can be
fast when dyed with vegetable dyestuffs. |
| TAPPET
FABRIC |
Fabric of a simple
weave structure that may be woven on a cam or tappet
loom. |
| TARE |
1. A deduction
from the weight of merchandise plus container, made in
allowance for the weight of the container.
2. To
yield a specified proportion or degree of wool top over
noil, as, this wool tares well. |
| TARLATAN |
An open,
plain-weave coarse cotton with a starched finish,
resembling coarse net. Highly inflammable. Used in
millinery and for stiffening belts as well as for extra
stiff petticoats or bustle effects. Often used for stage
costumes. |
| TARNISH PREVENTION
FABRIC |
Chemically
treated, napped cloth used to wrap silver and to line
silver chests, to protect silver from
oxidising. |
| TARNISH RESISTANT
FLANNEL |
Flannel dyed with
colours free from sulphur and other substances that
possess a tendency to tarnish silver and impregnated
with chemicals that absorb sulphur fumes. Used to wrap
silver and to line silver chests. |
| TARPAULIN |
A general term for
heavy waterproof canvas fabric, used as protective cover
for cargo, etc. from weather. Originally made of cotton
duck waterproofed with tar. Also plain weave jute or
hemp fabric made with taped ends and single filling,
waterproofed with tar, paint or other waterproofing
substances. Now made of nylon and other synthetic
fibres. |
| TARRED
ROPE |
A rope which has
received an application of tar to increase resistance to
the deteriorating effect of water. Yarns for this
cordage are usually treated with tar by the dipping and
saturating process. It also imparts added abrasion
resistance. |
| TARTAN |
Authentic tartan
designs belong to individual Scottish clans, although
many other people now wear them. Cloth is woolen or
worsted in twill weave; each tartan is an elaborately
colored check design. The traditional garment is the
pleated kilt, but tartan cloth is also used for
trousers, shawls and fashion garments. Elaborately
checked fabric is available which is not authentic
tartan, often made from acrylic or cotton. The weight of
the cloth varies considerably. |
| TARTAN
CHECKS |
Plain or twill
weave cotton dress fabric with standard patterned Scotch
plaids. May also refer to fibred fabric with a similar
plaid pattern. |
| TASSEL |
A pendant trimming
with a tuft of loose yarn at the end of a length of
rope-like material. Used for dresses, coats, curtains
and upholstery.
An embroidery stitch used to form
fringe. |
| TATTERSALL
CHECK |
Large, loud check
woollen cloth, often in black and white with another
color. Often worn on the racecourse. Used for overcoats,
hats, caps and capes for men. Usually heavy. See also
Tattersal checks under Checks |
| TATTING |
Lacy work, of
varying coarseness, depending on the thread used
(usually crochet thread). It is worked using a shuttle
with thread wound on to it, and using the fingers of the
other hand in conjunction with it. Usually used only for
edgings, motifs, or tablemats.
TEARING STRENGTH I
The resistance of a fabric to tearing. |
| TATTING
COTTON |
A fine, hard
twist, cotton thread used in tatting. |
| TE |
See Total
elongation. |
| TEAR |
Fabric defect. An
opening in the structure of a fabric in which several
warp or weft yarns, or both, are severed. |
| TEAR
DROP |
Also called
Teariness. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. A fabric
condition characterized by short crescent-like
elliptical deviations of one or more adjoining picks,
caused by insufficient warp tension, incorrect harness
timing, over-sized warp, uneven penetration of sizing
solution. Tear drops are most pronounced in taffetas and
grosgrain weaves. |
| TEARINESS |
See Tear
drop. |
| TEARING IN
PRINTING |
See
Tiering. |
| TEARING
STRENGTH |
The resistance of
a fabric to tearing.
1. The average force required
to start a tear in a fabric under specified
conditions.
2. The average force required to continue
or propagate a tear, previously started in a fabric,
under specified conditions. |
| TEASE |
The process of
napping or teaseling. |
| TEASEL |
See
Teazle |
| TEAZEL |
See
Teazle |
| TEAZLE |
Also called
Teasel, Teazel. The dried prickly burr of the plant
Fullerr's thistle ('Dipsacus fullonam'), used to raise
the nap and pile on certain fabrics. The machine used
for this purpose is known as Teazle Gig. Wire brushes
may also be used for this purpose |
| TEAZLE
GIG |
See under
Teazle. |
| TEAZLING |
The dried prickly
burr of the plant Fullerr's thistle is used to raise the
nap and pile on certain fabrics. The machine used for
this purpose is known as Teazle gig. Wire brushes may
also be used for this purpose |
| TEBELIZED |
A finish applied
to many fabrics, including pile constructions. The
finish resists creasing, crushing and mussing; gives the
fabrics the ability to recover from wrinkling in wear;
remains the same after washing. |
| TECHNICAL
TEXTILES |
Textile materials
and products manufactured primarily for their technical
performance and functional properties rather than their
aesthetic or decorative characteristics. Some of the
end-uses include, aerospace, industrial, marine,
medical, military, safety and transport textiles and geo
textiles. |
| TEDDY BEAR
CLOTH |
A napped fleece
coating made of wool and mohair. |
| TEFLON |
See
Tetrafluoroethylene. |
| TEG WOOL |
See Hog
wool. |
| TEKKA |
A type of plaited
cord made of native wool in Algeria and generally dyed
one colour. Used by Arab men to tie
trousers. |
| TEKLAN |
Trade name for a
modacrylic fibre, which is strong and hardwearing but
also soft, warm and light and can be bulked. Has good
resistance to sunlight, bacteria and chemicals and,
above all, is nonflammable. Used mainly in woven and
knitted dress materials, and household textiles, such as
net curtains and furnishing fabrics, and because it is
particularly flame-resistant, for children's nightwear.
See Acrylics |
| TELESCOPIC
RAPIER |
See
Rapier. |
| TEMPLE |
A device used on
looms to hold the cloth at the fell as near as possible
to the width of the warp in the reed; to control the
fabric width. |
| TEMPLE
CUTTING |
Fabric defect,
caused by fracture of the warp or weft yarn, or both, by
temple pins during weaving. |
| TEMPLE
MARK |
Also called Bad
temple, Pick-out place, and Rough place. Fabric defect
in woven fabrics. Small holes, impressions, distortions,
or marks adjacent to the selvage of the fabric caused by
poorly ad-justed or improper temples. |
| TEMPORARY
SET |
See under
Setting. |
| TENACITY |
The maximum
specific stress that is developed in a tensile test
taken to rupture. |
| TENCEL |
Trade name of a
brand of lyocell fibre. See Lyocell. |
| TENDEL |
A variety of biaze
dyed with indigo. Made in Central Asia. |
| TENDER
GOODS |
Fabric defect.
Fabric which has become weak because of
tendering. |
| TENDER
SPOT |
See Weak
spot |
| TENDER
SPOTS |
Places in fabric
which have been excessively weakened, usually by
exposure to processing chemicals. Also occurs in
printing and finishing procedures. |
| TENDER
WOOL |
Wool, below the
normal tensile strength. |
| TENDERING |
Weakening of
textile materials by over exposure to some treatment or
finishing operation. Tendering can occur due to the use
of dried-out yarn, very strong a scouring liquor,
redyeing, redyeing after stripping the cloth too harshly
to remove the colouring on the material, poor singeing,
excessive napping, excessive shearing, etc |
| TENERIFFE
LACE |
Lace which is
inexpensive typified by a wheel design or spider's web
motif. These are often joined to make mats or added to
table linen. It is similar to Paraguay
lace. |
| TENNIS
CLOTH |
Also called Tennis
flannel. A bleached or cream-coloured fabric made of
cotton, sometimes with wool filling, in a two up, two
down twill or other simple weaves, and often decorated
with stripes of mercerized cotton or spun silk. Popular
for shirting, sportswear and dresses. |
| TENNIS
FLANNEL |
See Tennis
cloth. |
| TENSILE |
Relating to
tension in, or on, a material. |
| TENSILE HYSTERESIS
CURVE |
A stress-strain or
a complex load-elongation curve obtained when the test
sample is (a) subjected to successive applications of a
load or stress less than is required to rupture and to
the removal of the load or stress according to a given
procedure; (b) stressed less than breaking elongation
and is permitted to relax by removing the strain
according to the given procedure. |
| TENSILE
STRAIN |
The relative
length deformation exhibited by a specimen subjected to
a tensile force; the extension of a material subject to
tension expressed as a proportion of the length of the
specimen. |
| TENSILE
STRENGTH |
See Breaking
strength. |
| TENSILE STRENGTH
AT BREAK |
Also called
Breaking force. The tensile force recorded at the moment
of rupture.
The tensile strength and the tensile
strength at break may be different if, after yield, the
elongation continues and is accompanied by a drop in
force resulting in tensile strength at break being lower
than tensile strength. |
| TENSILE
STRESS |
The stress within
a material subjected to tension. |
| TENSILE
TEST |
A test in which a
textile material is extended in one direction to
determine one or more of its force-extension; or
stress-strain, characteristics; e.g. Breaking force,
Elongation at break. |
| TENSION |
The force acting
along a yarn or fabric sample tending to elongate it; a
uniaxial force tending to cause the extension of a body
or the balancing force within that body resisting the
extension. |
| TENSION
REP |
A plain weave rep
made on two warp beams, one tensioned slackly and the
second tightly. Ends are arranged in a simple pattern,
e.g. one tight end and alternating with one slack
end. |
| TENSION
TEST |
A test designed to
measure the tautness in a textile strand or fabric. See
also Tensile test. |
| TENSION-SUPPORTED
ROOF |
A fabric
roof-system, that is properly secured and primarily held
in place by tensile forces applied across the
system. |
| TENSOMETER |
A laboratory
device that measures the tensile strength, and therefore
the tenacity, of the specimen. |
| TENT
CLOTH |
A strong,
waterproof cloth, especially duck, used for
tents. |
| TENT
STITCH |
A short, slanted
type of needlework made in even lines of stitches from
left to right. Commonly used in embroidery. |
| TENTER |
Same as
Stenter. |
| TENTER
MARK |
See Clip
mark. |
| TENTERING |
Same as
Stentering. |
| TERENE |
A trade name for
polyester resembling Dacron physically; in a range of
deniers and staple fibres. |
| TERINDA |
Trade name for a
polyester fibre, from which a range of knitting yarns
has been designed especially for surface finishes. The
yarns may be bright, dull or extra dull. Used in suede
and panne fabrics. |
| TERMINOLOGY FOR
GRADING PROCESS |
See under
Grading. |
| TERRITORY
WOOL |
This wool is
chiefly of the fine type and it shows heavy shrinkage
and low yield. Much of the wool is dull, dark and dirty
in-the-grease but it scoures well to a good
white. |
| TERRY |
See Terry
towelling. |
| TERRY
FABRIC |
A warp-pile fabric
having the pile in the form of loops, which is used for
toweling, beach robes, bath mats, etc. |
| TERRY
OFF |
Fabric defect. A
band in a terry section that has no terry loops. Usually
caused by incorrect let-off motion. |
| TERRY ON
PALAIN |
Fabric defect.
Terry loops appearing within a plain section of a terry
fabric. Usually caused by incorrect let-off
motion. |
| TERRY
TOWEL |
See under
Towel. |
| TERRY
TOWELING |
It is cotton
backing with uncut loops on the surface. The best
quality toweling has loops on both sides and a firmly
woven selvage. The loops are formed by the extra yarn
being fed in at a slack tension; they are easily caught
and pulled on cheap toweling, but on better quality
fabric they are shorter and closer and more firmly
anchored. Terry may be plain or printed. Used for robes
and beachwear as well as towels, curtains and bath mats,
etc. Terry varies in thickness, but all are all bulky.
Also sometimes called Turkish toweling. |
| TERRY
VELVET |
A velvet fabric
with a looped pile, produced in the same way as Terry
toweling. |
| TERTIARY
COLOURS |
Shade of colour
made by mixing the primary colours or one or more of the
secondary colours with grey or black. See also Colour,
Primary colours and Secondary colours. |
| TERYLENE |
Trade name of a
polyester fibre, produced from petroleum and its
byproducts. Can be successfully bulked. Is extremely
hardwearing and mixes well with many other fibres such
as cotton, wool, and viscose. Does not catch light but
it melts. Used in all types of dress and furnishing
fabrics. See Polyester. |
| TETRAFLUOROETHYLENE |
It is Teflon. A
textile fibre made in either staple or filament form
from tetrafluoroethylene monomer unit. |
| TEX |
Tex is the basic
unit of the tex system. A unit for expressing linear
density, equal to the mass in grams of 1000 metres of
yarn, filament, fibre or other textile strand. It is a
recognized SI unit. See Tex system. |
| TEX COUNT
(tex) |
Tex is the basic
unit of the tex system. A unit for expressing linear
density, equal to the mass in grams of 1000 metres of
yarn, filament, fibre or other textile strand. It is a
recognized SI unit. See Tex system and Yarn count in tex
system |
| TEX
SYSTEM |
The
internationally accepted system of expressing linear
density (mass per unit length) of fibres, filaments,
slivers, and yarns, or other linear textile material.
The basic unit is tex, which is the mass in grams of one
kilometre of the product. Multiples and sub-multiples
recommended for use in preference to other possible
combinations are: kilogram per kilometre, designated
kilotex (ktex); decigram per kilometre, designated
decitex (dtex); and milligram per kilometre, designated
millitex (mtex). |
| TEXILOSE |
A substitute for
jute yarn, consisting of paper strips mixed with short
waste textile fibres. |
| TEXIPIQUÉ |
A non-jacquard
double jersey fabric made on an interlock basis and
consisting of a selection of knitted and tuck
loops. |
| TEXTILE |
The word is
derived from the Latin word 'texere' - to weave; but a
wider meaning than simply that of weaving must be
accepted since that is only one of a variety of ways of
making textile fabrics.
Originally a woven fabric,
now generally applied to fibres, yarn intermediates,
yarns, fabrics, and products made from fabrics which
retain more or less completely the strength,
flexibility, and other properties of the original fibres
or filaments. A textile is a fabric made from fibres
but, as shown below, the fibres may either be converted
into yarn first and then the yarns put together in one
of a variety of ways to make fabrics, or the fibres can
be converted directly into a fabric. |
| TEXTILE
ARTICLES |
Yarns, piece goods
and made-up articles consisting mainly of textile
materials. |
| TEXTILE
DESIGN |
An arrangement of
forms or colours, or both, to be implemented for
ornamentation in or on various textile materials.
Designs or patterns may be woven or knitted into the
structure of a fabric; may form a surface decoration; or
a blend of colours may brighten or improve the design or
pattern. |
| TEXTILE
FABRIC |
See
Fabric. |
| TEXTILE
FIBRE |
A unit of matter
that is characterized by having a length at least 100
times its diameter or width and which can be spun into a
yarn or made into a fabric by interlacing in a variety
of methods, including weaving, knitting, braiding,
felting, and twisting. Not, all fibres are suitable for
textile purposes because a textile fibre must possess
sufficient length, fineness, strength and flexibility to
be suitable for manufacture into fabrics. The two basic
forms of textile fibres are Filament and Staple. See
also Fibre. |
| TEXTILE
MATERIALS |
An inclusive term
for fibres, yarns, fabrics, and products, which keep
relatively the same tensile strength, flexibility and
properties of the original fibres. |
| TEXTILE
MODULUS |
Deprecated term.
See Young's modulus. |
| TEXTILE
PROCESSING |
Any mechanical
process used to transform a textile fibre or yarn to a
fabric or other textile material. Included in these
processes are: Opening, Carding, Combing, Spinning,
Quilling, Slashing, Weaving, Knitting, etc. |
| TEXTILE
TECHNICIAN |
A specialist
knowledgeable in the technical details of some
particular phase of textile manufacturing. |
| TEXTILE
TECHNOLOGIST |
A scientist who
applied precise knowledge to the development or
direction of various phases of textile
manufacturing. |
| TEXTILE,
NON-COMBUSTIBLE |
See
Non-combustible textile. |
| TEXTILIST |
A specialist in
some phase of textiles. |
| TEXTURAL
DESIGN |
A great variety of
design and texture effects which may be produced by
weave combination of various materials and in pile
fabrics as distinguished from design produced by colour.
See Textile design. |
| TEXTURE |
The surface
appearance and hand of a textile material; may be
described as: dull, lustrous, woolly, stiff, soft, fine,
coarse, open or closely woven, etc. Texture is
independent of the colour of the material. |
| TEXTURED
FILAMENT |
Multi- or
mono-filament yarn characterized by actual, or latent,
filament crimps, coils or loops, with or without twist
liveliness, by which it has, or can develop by
after-treatment, bulk and/or stretch
properties. |
| TEXTURED GLASS
YARN |
A yarn processed
from continuous filament yarn in such a manner to induce
bulk to the yarn by disorientation of the
filaments |
| TEXTURED
PILE |
See under Pile in
carpet. |
| TEXTURED
YARN |
A generic term for
filament or spun yarns that have been given notably
greater apparent volume than conventional yarns of
similar fibre or filament count and linear density. See
Texturing. |
| TEXTURING |
Also called
Texturising. A process by which synthetic thermoplastic
yarns are imparted additional bulk, moderate stretch and
texture. A continuous filament yarn that has been
processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loops or
other fine distortions along the lengths of the
filaments. Man-made fibres, in the form of continuous
filaments, when twisted together to make smooth surfaced
continuous filament yarns, could not compete effectively
with spun yarns, particularly those made from natural
fibres, because they did not have the same hairiness,
bulk and warmth of handle, or high moisture absorbency
which the spun yarns possess.
The texturing process
imparts, to the stronger continuous filament synthetics;
those properties which were once associated only with
staple yarns. The improved properties are developed by
the permanent introduction of crimps, coils, loops and
crinkles into the straight filament. The technique of
texturing has added significance as the man-made fibre
producers can now produce yarns more or less ready for
weaving or knitting, without the additional processes of
cutting up the extruded filaments and respinning the
resulting staple on traditional textile machinery.
Various techniques have been developed for bringing
about these filament modifications, and some methods are
more in common usage than others. |
| TEXTURISING |
See
Texturing |
| TEXTURITY |
A label placed on
material that is guaranteed not to shrink more than
2%. |
| TEXTURIZED |
An appealing
textural surface due to the use of a textured
yarn. |
| TG (Tg) |
See Glass-rubber
transition temperature. |
| THEATRICAL
GAUZE |
A lightweight,
plain weave, open textured cotton fabric with a stiff
finish. It is available in many colours. Used for
theatrical costumes, curtains. The fabric was originally
woven with linen yarn and, because of its sheerness, was
used in theatrical drops as an almost invisible ground
for applied foliage. Also called 'linen
scrim'. |
| THERMAL
BLANKET |
See under
Blanket |
| THERMAL BONDED
BATTING |
A textile filling
material which contains low-melting point fibres or
polymers which, when heated, fuse the batting materials
together |
| THERMAL
CHARACTER |
Apparent
difference in temperature of the fabric and the skin of
the observer touching it. See Hand of
fabric. |
| THERMAL
CONDUCTANCE |
See Thermal
transmittance. |
| THERMAL
CONDUCTIVITY |
Time rate of
unidirectional heat transfer per unit area, in the
steady-state, between parallel planes separated by unit
distance, per unit difference of temperature of the
planes. |
| THERMAL
CONDUCTIVITY TESTER |
A laboratory
device that measures the resistance of a fabric to the
flow of heat. A cloth is a better insulator and thus
warmer when it has lower thermal
conductivity. |
| THERMAL
FABRICS |
Fabrics made with
fibres having 'wicking' property. Used mainly for the
manufacture of thermal underwear, which when worn next
to the skin, the skin is kept dry through the wicking
action of the fibre, transferring body moisture into a
more absorbent garment worn on top. Thermal fabrics are
made of spun synthetic yarns (chlorofibre (polyvinyl
chloride), polypropylene, polyester, etc.) which are
soft, almost cotton-like in handle so that there is no
question of a clammy fabric next to skin.
Most
thermal fabrics seem to rely on almost total lack of
'moisture regain' which helps to limit the thermal
conductivity of the fibre.
If the construction of
the fabric provides a layer of still air over the body
it will prevent the entry of cold from the outside and
the loss of heat from the body. The fabric construction
and the garment layers play an important part in
creating the necessary insulation properties.
An
additional factor is a negative electrostatic charge
generated by chlorofibre which is regarded as
therapeutic. It has been found to relieve pain and to
help retain body warmth by producing a barrier of air
which is electrostatic. It is reported by some European
universities and hospitals that these tribo-electrical
properties of polyvinyl chloride have very significant
beneficial effects on pa-tients suffering from various
conditions such as neuralgia, scitica and
rheumatism. |
| THERMAL
FINISHING |
The process of
applying heat to textiles to impart desired functional
and/or aesthetic characteristics. Thermal finishing
includes heat setting, hot embossing, etc., but excludes
drying. |
| THERMAL
FIXATION |
The use of dry
heat to achieve a degree of permanence when applying
colorants to textile material. |
| THERMAL KNIT
FABRIC |
A waffle-knit
fabric of cotton, wool or man-made fibre which has an
insulating quality. |
| THERMAL PROTECTIVE
PERFORMANCE (TPP) RATING |
See Exposure
energy to thermal endpoint. |
| THERMAL PROTECTIVE
PERFORMANCE RATING |
See Exposure
energy to thermal endpoint. |
| THERMAL
RESISTANCE |
The reciprocal of
thermal transmittance. |
| THERMAL
RESISTIVITY |
The reciprocal of
thermal conductivity. |
| THERMAL
TRANSMITTANCE |
Time rate of
unidirectional heat transfer per unit area, in the
steady state, between parallel planes, per unit
difference of temperature of the planes. Same as Thermal
conductance and Heat Transfer coefficient. |
| THERMAL WOVEN
FABRIC |
A porous fabric so
constructed that air warmed by the body is trapped
between the yarns. Used for blankets, winter underwear,
the reverse sides of comforters. |
| THERMALINE
DYEING |
Solid-colour
dyeing that is applied to union lustre wool
fabrics. |
| THERMALLY-BONDED
SEAM |
A seam formed by
heat and pressure. (Compare Glued seam, Sewn seam,
Stapled seam.) |
| THERMATION
MACHINE |
An automatic
quilting machine capable of producing vinyl quilting in
one step by sandwiching a layer of filling material
between two layers of vinyl. |
| THERMOFIX
DYEING |
A dyeing process
used extensively for continuous dyeing of materials made
of polyester alone or when mixed with other fibres; a
process which makes effective use the property of
sublimation, possessed by disperse dyes of low molecular
weight |
| THERMOFIXATION |
A dry heat process
used for fixation of dyes on a fibre, e.g. fixation or
reaction of fibre reactive dyes. Sometimes applied to
the thermosol process. |
| THERMOPLASTIC |
Term applied to
substances able to be repeatedly deformed by the
application heat and pressure without any accompanying
chemical change. |
| THERMOSETTING |
Term applied to
substances which harden when sufficient heat is applied
and thereafter are practically infusible |
| THERMOSOL
METHOD |
A method of dyeing
man-made fibres, especially polyester and other
thermoplastic fibres, by padding fabric with disperse
dyes or selected vat pigments. Dry heat (390º C to 450º
C for about one minute) is used to make dyes migrate or
'move' into and colour the fibres. So-called 'solid
solutions' are formed in the fibre. |
| THERMOSOLING |
Fixation by dry
heat or 'baking' |
| THERMOSTATIC
PROCESS |
A heat-treating
process used on nylon fabrics to improve hand of
fabrics; dimensional stability; wrinkle-resistance and
crease resistance. |
| THERMOVYL |
A
non-post-chlorinated polyvinylchloride fibre of coarse
staple. It is pre-shrunk by heat treatment, which
improves its heat stability and minimal strength at high
extension. |
| THICK AND
THIN |
Twisted strands of
fibres of varying thickness used to obtain unusual
effects in weaving. |
| THICK AND THIN
PLACES |
Fabric defect. See
Thick place and Thin place.
1. MAJOR FABRIC DEFECT.
Places in the fabric where for 1 in. (25 mm) or more the
count varies more than a specified percentage from the
specified count. See also Thick place and Thin place.
2. MINOR FABRIC DEFECT. Places in the fabric where
for less than 1 in. (25 mm) the count varies more than a
specified percentage from the specified count. See also
Thick place and Thin place. |
| THICK
BAR |
Fabric defect. An
effect caused by two or more weft picks which give a
thick or bloated effect in the goods. Caused by improper
setting of the cloth in the loom after a 'start-up',
uneven tension and weights on the warp beam, not setting
the pick-wheel correctly after stopping the loom, poor
functioning of the take-up because of possible improper
setting or tension, or skipping. |
| THICK
FILLING |
See Coarse
pick. |
| THICK
PICK |
See Coarse
pick. |
| THICK
PLACE |
1. YARN DEFECT. A
place in the yarn characterized by a diameter greater
than that of the adjoining segments and extending for 6
mm (¼ in.).
2. FABRIC DEFECT. An unintentional
change in fabric appearance characterized by a small
area of more closely spaced yarns, or by a congregation
of thick yarns as compared to the adjacent
con-struction.
See also Thin place and Thick and
thin places. |
| THICK
STRIPES |
Fabric defect.
Stripes which are too thick in diameter and tend to
throw off the general appearance of the fabric. Caused
by uneven yarn, incorrect drawing-in or reeding-in of
the warp threads, and incorrect yarn sizes. |
| THICKENING |
In printing, any
agent used to 'stodge up' the liquid colouring-matter
and to prevent its spread by capillarity to unwanted
areas of the cloth. It is made of natural starches or
gums or of artificial ones. |
| THICKNESS |
In textiles, the
distance between the upper and lower surfaces of the
material, measured under a specified
pressure. |
| THICKNESS
TESTER |
A laboratory
device that measures the thickness of yarns and fabrics
under standard pressure. |
| THICKSET |
A strong corduroy
with short, thick pile and twill back. Woven with high
filling count per square inch. Used for work clothing.
The pile is so thickly set as to somewhat resemble a
coarse velveteen. |
| THIGH
GIRTH |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| THIN BAR |
Fabric defect.
Occurs in the loom when two or more warp ends do not
interlace with the weft yarn. May be caused by failure
of the loom to stop or knock-off when a weft breaks or
snaps, or by an irregular action of a harness frame.
Thin bars may be interspersed throughout the width of
the goods if a harness strap on a harness frame breaks
or skips; gives a 'flat' in the warp direction of the
cloth. May also be caused by a warp end becoming broken
and causing the two ends on each side of where it should
be weaving to weave side-by-side to produce a 'flat' in
the vertical direction of the material. |
| THIN END |
See Fine
end. |
| THIN
FILLING |
Also called Fine
filling, Fine pick, Light filling, Light pick, Thin
pick. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. A weft yarn
smaller in diameter than normally being used in the
fabric. |
| THIN FILLING
BAR |
See Fine filling
bar. |
| THIN
PICK |
See Thin
filling. |
| THIN
PLACE |
1. YARN DEFECT. A
place in the yarn characterized by a segment that is
substantially (at least 25 %) smaller in diameter than
the average diameter of the yarn.
2. FABRIC DEFECT.
An unintentional change in fabric appearance
characterized by, a small area of loosely spaced yarns,
often caused by the weft yarn breaking and the loom
continues to run until the operator notices the problem,
or a congregation of thin yarns as compared to the
adjacent con-struction.
See also Thick place and
Thick and thin places. |
| THIN
SPOT |
See Crack
mark |
| THIN
STRIPES |
Fabric defect.
Linked with 'thick stripes', these come from poor set-up
of the pattern, faulty weaving, improper drawing-in or
reeding-in of the warp yarns. |
| THIN-WALLED
FIBRE |
See under Cotton
maturity. |
| THIRD
COMBING |
The wool taken
from the lower part of the back of the
fleece. |
| THIRD GENERATION
MAN-MADE FIBRES |
The phase of
development is characterized by custom-tailoring fibres
for specialized markets. The qualities of performance
and aesthetics are now being built in to the fibres in
the production stage. |
| THISTLE |
See
Teazle. |
| THONG
HOLE |
In zippers, the
opening at the end of a pull. |
| THORNPROOF
TWEED |
Characteristic
type of tweed with Salt and pepper colouring styles.
Normal woollen yarns for tweeds are single yarns but
thornproof tweed is made from two-fold twist yarns and
the two yarns can be either contrasting or toning in
color. The standard weave is plain and the combination
of this weave and series of twist colors in warp and
weft gives the characteristic sprinkled color
effect. |
| THREAD |
The result of
twisting together in one or more operations two or more
single, folded or cabled yarns. The term thread is
frequently used to describe single yarns, a product as
used in sewing, also used in such expressions as
(threads per unit length) irrespective of their
nature |
| THREAD
BREAK |
In sewn seams, a
rupture of the sewing thread. |
| THREAD
COUNT |
The number of warp
and weft threads in 1 square inch of fabric before it
being subjected to any kind of processing. |
| THREAD
COUNTER |
See Counting
glass. |
| THREAD
FABRIC |
A strong,
heavyweight, plain weave cotton fabric made with ply
warp and single filling; picks are spaced far apart from
each other. Once used as a foundation for rubber in
tyres, but later supplanted by other cord
fabrics. |
| THREAD
HOLDER |
The device on
which thread is wound so that it can be transported to,
and run off smoothly at, the sewing operation. It may be
in the form of a cone, spool, tube, or
bobbin. |
| THREAD
MARKING |
1. Temporary
stitches to mark the fitting lines of a 'bespoke'
garment.
2. Marking key positions such as pockets and
darts of garments, by means of threads inserted through
all the plies of a lay with a thread marking
machine. |
| THREAD
OUT |
See End
out. |
| THREAD
WASTE |
The waste left on
bobbins or collected during spinning and weaving. See
also Thrum waste, and Spinners waste. |
| THREADY
CLOTH |
A fabric finished
to show all the thread on the face. |
| THREE-LEAF
TWILL |
Simplest form of
twill, repeating on three ends and three
picks. |
| THREE-LEAF WARP
TWILL |
Dyed or bleached,
carded fabric made with a three-harness warp-faced
twill. It is lighter in weight than jeans or drills and
is used in work shirts, pocketings and some
linings. |
| THREE-PICK TERRY
CLOTH |
Two picks
(filling) go under the pile loops and one pick goes
between two rows of pile. |
| THREE-QUARTER
GOODS |
In woollen
industry, fabrics, which measure 27 inches (68.58 cm) or
½, yard (0.69 m), in width. |
| THROAT
PLATE |
In sewing machine,
a platform in the stitching zone for supporting the work
material being sewn with openings for the needle and
feed surfaces. Slots are cut in the plate through which
the dogs protrude, holes are located for needle passage
to the bobbin or loopers below the plate, and extensions
of the plate are used for chaining fingers on the
overlock and multithread chain stitch machines. Also
called Needle plate. |
| THROAT
SEIZING |
See
Seizing. |
| THROATS |
in zippers, the
two openings in a slider that receive the
stringers. |
| THROUGH-AND-THROUGH |
A reversible wool
fabric with identical face and back. |
| THROUGH-PRINTED |
Sheer fabrics can
be printed so that the colors on the back of the cloth
are about as well defined as those on the face, e.g.
Discharge style printing. |
| THROW |
A removable,
unfitted protective textile cover, used over upholstered
furniture. See Furniture covering |
| THROWING |
Term, especially
used in the silk and man-made fibre industries to
describe the twisting or folding of continuous filament
yarns from required number of filaments with required
amount of twist for the fabric to be woven or
knitted. |
| THROWN
SILK |
Raw silk that has
been twisted, or doubled and twisted. |
| THROWN
SINGLES |
Raw silk, which
after reeling is thrown, i.e. grouped and generally
twisted into tram, organzine, 'no-throw' or twistless
yarn, crêpe or sewing silk thread. |
| THROWSTER |
#Error |
| THRUM |
1. A term for
fringe or short lengths of materials which suggest
fringe. Specifically, the end of warp which is not woven
but remains on the loom when the woven fabric has been
cut free.
2. A general term for soft, short threads,
tufts, or fringe. In broader terms, any mass of hairs on
an animal, or fibres or thread-like leaves of a plant
which is similar to thrum |
| THRUM
WASTE |
The threads of
woven-out warps cut from warp beams. This waste is often
tightly twisted and must be reworked before it can be
used again. |
| THUNDER AND
LIGHTNING |
See Oxford
grey. |
| TICK
EFFECTS |
A term sometimes
used for bird's eye patterns, especially on worsted
suiting. |
| TICKET
NUMBER |
The tex number
assigned to a sewing thread to designate its approximate
linear density. |
| TICKING |
Very strong,
closely woven twill. Stiff and can be recognized mainly
by the narrow woven in stripes of any color along with
white; can be plain also. Usually made of cotton, but
sometimes linen is added. Though not very attractive
fabric, used occasionally as a fashion fabric for
women's jackets and trousers. Its main use is as
hardwearing covers for mattresses, and
pillows. |
| TIE
CLOTH |
Any soft or crisp
fabric suitable for men's ties or cravats, including Tie
silk and faille, pongee, in twill weave, acetate,
polyester or silk fibres. |
| TIE INTERFACING
SEW-IN |
See under Sew-in
woven interfacing. |
| TIE SILK |
A general term for
silk fabric used for men's neckties generally made in
narrow widths, in a wide range of constructions,
textures, colours, designs and qualities. |
| TIE-DYEING |
Also called
Tie-and-dyeing or Knot dyeing. Hand dyeing method of
producing patterns on fabric. Portions of the cloth are
tied into a compact knot so that areas will not be
penetrated and thus remain undyed, forming a
pattern. |
| TIE-STITCH |
A short stitch,
leaving ends of thread several inches long which are
then tied in a knot. Used mainly in millinery and
occasionally in dressmaking |
| TIERING |
In printing, the
job of spreading the print-paste evenly over the woollen
sieve. Same as Tearing. |
| TIGERING |
Removing the
surplus strands of fibre from the surface of high-pile
woven or knitted fabrics. |
| TIGHT
END |
Fabric defect in
woven fabrics. A yarn which was woven under excessive
tension or has shrunk more than a normal
amount. |
| TIGHT
FILLING |
See Tight
pick. |
| TIGHT
PICK |
Also called
Stretched filling, Tight filling. Fabric defect in woven
fabrics. One or more picks woven under abnormally high
tension producing a fabric condition appearing as a
wavy, ruffled or puckered surface at the junction with
normal picks. (Compare Wavy cloth.) |
| TIGHT
SELVEDGE |
Also called Drawn
selvage. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. Selvedge yarns
shorter than warp yarn in the body of the fabric. May be
caused by the loom temples not holding the edge threads
and the fabric to the proper width at the fell of the
cloth as it is being woven; filling tensions being too
high, too many ends in the reed splits or dents which
cause cramming of the yarn, a weave construction that is
too compact or tight and the yarn which is not suitable
for the type of fabric desired. Tight selvedges are very
difficult to remedy. |
| TIGHT
SPOT |
See
Twit |
| TIGHT TWIST
END |
Also called Hard
end, and Wiry end. Fabric defect. A single end with
higher than normal twist. |
| TIGHT WARP
ENDS |
Fabric defect. One
or more ends which result from abnormal tension in the
cloth and usually run for considerable length unless
observed by the weaver. Sometimes difficult to detect as
cloth is being woven. |
| TIGHTNESS
FACTOR |
Also called Cover
factor. In knitting, a measure of the relationship
between the loop length of a knitted fabric and the
size/count of the yarn employed to construct it. A range
of fabric of differing loop size are considered to have
related properties if the yarn size increases to
maintain the same cover factor. |
| TIME-TO-BREAK |
The time interval
during which a specimen is under prescribed conditions
of tension and is absorbing the energy required to reach
maximum load. |
| TIN
WEIGHTING |
Building up weight
of silk by use of tin salts, especially used for white
or light shades. |
| TINCTORIAL
STRENGTH |
The effectiveness
of a given mass of dye in coloring a given mass of
material. |
| TINSEL
YARN |
A textile yarn or
thread, combined, coated, or covered with a shiny
substance, often metallic, (e.g. aluminium, occasionally
gold or silver), to produce a glittering or sparkling
effect. See also Metallized yarn. |
| TINTING |
Application of
whitening agents for enhancing whiteness of textile
goods. |
| TIP
PRINTING |
A combination of
embossing and printing. The embossed section of the
fabric is printed. |
| TIP-SHEARED
PILE |
See under Pile in
carpet. |
| TIPPED |
A descriptive term
for pile fabrics, usually plushes, with long pile, where
the final dyeing process is applied only to the tips or
cut ends, of the pile. |
| TIPPY
WOOL |
Wool in which the
tip portions of the fibres have been so damaged by
weathering during growth as to have markedly different
dyeing properties. |
| TISSUE |
Term used to
describe a light transparent or translucent woven cloth
in any fibre. Usually means one that has body and is not
soft or floppy. |
| TISSUE
TAFFETA |
The finest,
lightest taffeta. It is almost transparent and normally
only used for underwear or for lining fine
garments |
| TITER |
1. Weight per unit
length of yarn.
2. Number of filaments in reeled silk
thread. |
| TITRE
NUMBER |
A generic term for
units of linear density. The corresponding term for
units of specific length is 'count number' |
| TJANTING |
#Error |
| TJAP
BLOCK |
A wax printing
block, made entirely of metal strips and are open at the
back. It was introduced in Java to facilitate speedier
production. |
| TO TAKE
DRESS |
See under
Dress. |
| TOBACCO
CLOTH |
See under
Cheesecloth. |
| TOBY
PRINTING |
A method used in
block printing when the different colour areas of a
design are clearly separated from each other; the
colours are applied by means a divided sieve and are
thus printed at the same time from one
block. |
| TOE
BLOCK |
A reinforced toe
section of a stocking. |
| TOE
CLOSING |
The closing of the
toe opening in knitted hosiery. It may be closed in the
knitting or it may be sewn closed. |
| TOILE |
1. French for
'fabric'.
2. A trial garment that tests the shape,
dimensions and finishes of the design and enables
altera-tions to be made at an early stage. |
| TOILE DE
JOUY |
See Jouy
print. |
| TOM-TOM |
Also known as
Dolly. A machine in which lace, hosiery, or knitwear are
subjected to the action of free-falling beaters while
immersed in a detergent solution and carried in a moving
trough. |
| TOMMY
DOOD |
A machine used for
back-filling. |
| TONE |
See
Hue |
| TONE-TO-TONE
PRINT |
A fabric printed
in two tones of the same colour. |
| TOP |
An indefinitely
long assembly of staple fibres, substantially parallel
and without twist, and capable of being drafted. The
package of slivers that is the starting material for
worsted and some other drawing systems.
1. TOP IN
WORSTED PROCESSES: A sliver in which the fibres have
been parallelized, and usually combed. See also Top in
wool.
2. TOP IN MAN-MADE FIBRES OR TOW TO TOP
PROCESS: A sliver obtained by drafting, along with
breaking or cutting a multifilament tow.
3. TOP IN
WOOL: A continuous untwisted strand of wool fibres from
which the shorter fibres or no-ils have been removed by
combing. |
| TOP AND BOTTOM
FEED |
In sewing machine,
a feed mechanism comprising of a feeding foot working in
unison with a drop feed. Also called Upper and under
feed. |
| TOP AND BOTTOM
THREAD TRIMMER |
In sewing machine,
a device fitted to it, which cuts the needle threads and
under-threads after sewing. |
| TOP DYED |
Wool fibre dyed in
the form of top and then processed in the coloured
condition. |
| TOP SIDE |
In trousers, the
front section extending from the trouser-bottom to the
waist band and between the inside and side
seams. |
| TOP STOP |
In zippers, a part
affixed between or immediately above the interlocking
elements, on either or both stringers, to prevent the
slider from leaving the chain. |
| TOPHAM
BOX |
See under
Box-spinning. |
| TOPPING |
The application of
further colourant not necessarily of the same hue or
class to a dyed substrate in order to adjust the latter
to the desired final colour. |
| TOPSTITCHING |
A line or lines of
stitching that shows on the face side in the finished
article, stitched at a uniform distance from a seam to
reinforce it or for decoration, usually stitched while
having the face side of the fabric up. |
| TORCHON
LACE |
Coarse lace made
from cotton or linen thread, often with a shell design.
Is inexpensive and not hardwearing, due to the fact that
the threads are loosely twisted and it is quickly made.
Used for mats and decorations on clothes. |
| TORN
SELVEDGES |
Fabric defect.
Fabrics which are not presentable because of selvedge
ends missing, uneven tying-in of broken ends, knots and
slubs; often caused by generally poor work on the part
of the weaver. |
| TORN
SIZE |
The dimensions of
a sheet or pillow case before hemming. |
| TORQUE |
A moment (of
forces), which produces or tends to produce rotation or
torsion. When used in describing the performance or
characteristic of a yarn, refers to that characteristic
which tends to make it turn on itself as a result of
twisting. |
| TORQUE
YARN |
1. A textured
filament synthetic yarn made by imparting twist (torque)
in the 'S' or 'Z' direction.
2. A stretch yarn that,
when permitted to hang freely, rotates in the direction
of the unrelieved torque resulting from previous
deformation. See also Non-torque yarn and Stretch
yarn. |
| TORSION |
The twisting of
one end of a body with respect to the other. See also
Residual torsion. |
| TOTAL
CLO |
The intrinsic clo
plus the thermal resistance from the air boundary. See
also Clo. |
| TOTAL CROTCH
LENGTH |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| TOTAL ELONGATION
(TE) |
In rope, the
entire elongation when placed under a given
strain. |
| TOTAL VERTICAL
TRUNK LENGTH |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| TOUCH AND CLOSE
FASTENERS |
Also called Hook
and loop fasteners, Self-fastening tape fasteners. A
fastener comprising two tapes, both being pile fabrics.
The hook tape has a pile made from polyamide or
polyester monofilament with hook-shaped ends and the
loop component has a pile or multi-filament yarn. On
presenting one to the other, the hooks engage in the
loops, forming a secure closure that can be separated by
a peeling action from either end |
| TOUGHNESS |
That property of a
material by virtue of which it can absorb work.
There
is, therefore, an overall decrease in length but an
increase in bulk |
| TOW |
1. IN CONTINUOUS
FILAMENTS. A large number of continuous filaments
assembled without substantial twist, intended to be cut
or stretch-broken for use in staple fibre form.
2.
IN FLAX. Any substantially clean fibre of less than
scutched length.
3. IN BAST FIBRES, the short fibres
removed by hacking.
4. IN MAN-MADE FIBRES, a
twistless multifilament strand suitable for conversion
into staple fibres or sliver, or for direct spinning
into yarn. See also Spinning-4. |
| TOW BREAKING
MACHINES |
These machines
break the tow by stretching it, until it gives way at
the weaker places. Different tensioning and spreading
devices ensure that a regular sheet is fed into the
machine. In the pre-stretching zone the material is
brought close to its breaking point and then fed to the
breaking zone. Here the stretching is continued until
breaking occurs, and the tow is transformed into short
pieces of staple.
The material is then usually passed
through a crimping-box to give the sliver more cohesion
and to aerate it. Often the slivers are steamed to bring
about shrinkage, and this can produce high-bulk
material.
The material is then usually passed through
a crimping-box to give the sliver more cohesion and to
aerate it. Often the slivers are steamed to bring about
shrinkage, and this can produce high-bulk
material.
For the Turbo stapler, a machine of this
type, the sequence of operations, may therefore be
listed as 1. Tensioning, 2. Spreading, 3. Stretching, 4.
Breaking, 5. Crimping, and 6. Collecting.
The sliver
will then be processed to produce the spun yarn.
The
Two processes of cutting and breaking are quite
different and therefore the products will vary. For
example, the breaking resistance of the material will be
increased by the stretch-breaking method, because the
material will already have given way at its weakest
point. After being cut by the converter the ends are
crushed and this makes it more difficult for the fibres
to slide over one another during spinning. There are
also other variations such as the range of the fibre
lengths ob-tained and the manufacturer, therefore,
consider carefully the type of yarn he wishes to make,
bear-ing in mind the materials to be processed, while
deciding which method to use.
However, one thing is
certain; man-made staple fibres will be processed more
and more on these machines, replacing the traditional
operations of carding and combing. |
| TOW CUTTING
MACHINES |
These machines are
often known as converters. They are fed with a sheet,
made up of several tows, and this is cut by a helical
blade. As the blade rotates it is strongly pressed
against a smooth cylinder called an anvil. It is
possible for the helical blade to cut obliquely across
the tows; the ends of the fibres are not adjacent across
the sheet and this is known as 'bias cutting'. After
cutting, the sheet of fibres is fed to a shuffling
device, which staggers the cut fibres so as to obtain a
sliver which is then collected in a can.
The sequence
of operations for this type of converter can be
summarized as follows: 1. Tensioning, 2. Spreading, 3.
Cutting, 4. Shuffling, 5. Crimping, and 6.
Collecting.
Another machine, which is versatile but
also based on the principle of cutting, is the Pacific
Con-verter. This can be used to produce high-bulk
yarn.
Some of the material is first passed through a
heat-stretching zone, but some material bypasses this
area and the final sliver is a mixture of two kinds of
staple. That which has been heat-stretched will have a
far greater shrinkage potential than the rest. Thus on
steaming, relaxation of some of the staple takes place
readily and the rest is bulked out. There is, therefore,
an overall decrease in length but an increase in
bulk.
High-bulk spun yarn can be produced in this way
from acrylic yarns. |
| TOW-TO-TOP
CONVERSOIN |
The process by
which the tow is cut or broken to form staple and then
drafted into a sliver as a continuous
process.
Man-made staple fibre is produced for
spinning on the standard textile spinning machinery. For
this purpose the tows of continuous threads from the
spinnerets are cut into staple of the required length.
In the tow, the fibres are in the form of regular
filaments without any entanglement, but when converted
into staple fibres these are packed into bales and they
become entangled. The spin-ner then has to card and comb
the mass of fibres in order to straighten them out again
before a yarn can be produced.
It would obviously be
desirable to convert the rope of continuous filaments
directly into a sliver of stapled fibres. Machines are
available to do this and the tow is processed directly
into the so-called 'combed' tops. The process is,
naturally, referred to as tow-to-top conversion.
The
tow-to-top machines can be considered in two groups;
those that produce the staple by cutting, and those
which obtain the staple by stretch-breaking. It is
important to be able to control the length of the staple
produced and essential that the ends of the fibres in
the sliver are staggered. In this way the sliver is held
together and drafting can subsequently be carried out
satisfactorily. If all the ends of the fibres were at
the same point along the length of sliver, obviously it
would not hold together and it would be almost
impossible to handle the material. |
| TOWEL |
An absorbent
textile product used for drying or wiping.
is made
with loop pile on one or both sides generally covering
the entire surface or forming stripes, checks, or other
patterns. |
| TOWELING |
Any of several
types of fabric intended for use as towels;
specifically, fabric woven in long pieces and then cut
to the desired sizes, as distinguished from cloth woven
in towel lengths with borders or other decorations.
Cotton or linen is generally used and the fabric is
often relatively coarse in texture with low-twist yarns
that are absorbent.
tween processes or between mill
and customer. |
| TPP
RATING |
See Thermal
protective performance rating. |
| TRACEABILITY |
The ability to
trace the history, application or location of an item or
activity, or similar items or activities, by means of
recorded identification. |
| TRACING |
See
Separation. |
| TRACK SUIT
FABRIC |
Synthetic knit
with slightly sueded backing made from polyester or
polyester and cotton. Medium thickness, and in plain
bright colors, black and white. For track suits,
anoraks, trousers, shorts, and for children's
clothes. |
| TRACK SUIT
JERSEY |
Slightly open knit
fabric, soft and has fleecy back. Plain, often dull,
colors usually with marled effect. Generally acrylic or
polyester with viscose. Fabric is soft and comfortable.
Loses shape and is not very hardwearing compared with
the original, firmer track suit fabrics. Used for sports
and leisure wear, including jumpsuits and children's
clothes. |
| TRADE
MARK |
A word, letter,
device, or symbol used in connection with merchandise
and alluding distinctly to the origin or ownership of
the product to which it is applied. |
| TRADE
NAME |
A name given by a
manufacturer or merchant to a product to distinguish it
as one produced or sold by that manufacturer. It is
called, more accurately; a trade mark name and may be
protected as a trademark |
| TRADITIONAL
SELVEDGE |
See under
Selvedge. |
| TRAFFIC
SURFACE |
The durability,
abrasion and performance of the textile floor coverings.
The public walks on the surface of a rug or carpet so
that these features can be discerned. |
| TRAM |
Raw silk yarns
doubled and twisted with a low number of turns per inch;
generally used as weft. |
| TRAMISTATIC |
A term to describe
a loom with a stationary weft supply. |
| TRAMMAGE |
Also called Uneven
hand. Fabric defect in crêpes. A puckered area in which
a weft yarn has twist running in the same direction for
several picks instead of alternating 'S' and 'Z'
twist. |
| TRANSFER |
In textile
processing, movement of a chemical, dye or pigment
between fibres within a substrate or between
substrates. |
| TRANSFER
PRINTING |
A textile-printing
method in which the pattern is printed on to a paper web
and transferred by a process of sublimation (under heat
and pressure) to fabrics mainly of man-made
fibre. |
| TRANSFER
STITCH |
Transference of
loops during the knitting cycle to form a hole or lace
design or to create a structural change from rib to
single knit and vice versa, or to shape a
sweater. |
| TRANSMISSION
ROPE |
A rope made of six
strands of seven wires with a hemp center, used for
transmitting power, as in driving line
shafts. |
| TRANSPARENT
VELVET |
Lighter in weight
than chiffon velvet, soft and silky with good draping
qualities. Made with a silk viscose or acetate backing
and viscose or nylon pile. |
| TRANSPORTATION
FABRIC |
The fabric
covering for seats in buses, railway cars, airplanes,
and other vehicles. Specifications for this fabric
include excellent resistance to abrasion, soiling,
strain and light, and in some cases
flammability. |
| TRAPPED TWIST
YARN |
Filament yarn
textured by twisting two yarns around the same axis,
heat-setting and then untwisting to form two distinct
textured yarns. |
| TRASH |
1. The non-fibrous
matter present in bales of raw cotton other than
abnormal items, such as stone, timber, and pieces of old
iron, etc. The main component of trash is chaff, dirt in
the form of soil or sand and sometimes, foreign
(unwanted) fibres such as lengths of sisal, jute, hemp,
and grass.
2. Also called Mote trash. Defect, in
cotton yarn and fabric. Undeveloped seed, motes, small
bits of seed coat, or particles of leaf appearing as
specks.
TRASH CONTENT v The ratio of the mass of
trash in a sample of raw cotton fibres to the total mass
of the sample. The ratio is usually expressed as a
percentage. |
| TRAVANCORE
FLAX |
Synonym for
Sunn. |
| TRAVELLER |
The metal or
plastic component through which yarn passes on its way
to from the ballooning eye to the package surface in
ring spinning or twisting. It is mounted on a ring and
is dragged round by the yarn. |
| TRAVERSE |
1. The distance
moved by the yarn along the package during winding. The
movement of an end or ends parallel to the axis of
rotation, which spaces the turns across the yarn
package. See also Trav-erse length.
2. An adjective
to describe a type of mechanism used in
winding. |
| TRAVERSE
LENGTH |
The distance,
parallel to the axis of a yarn package, between points
of reversal of the direction of traverse. |
| TREADLE
LOOM |
A weaving machine
activated by a treadle connected to the main
shaft. |
| TREATED
FABRIC |
A fabric to which
a finish has been applied in order to change the
original level of a specific property or properties,
e.g. water repellence, crease resistance, soil
resistance. |
| TREBLE
CLOTH |
A layerd fabric
made with three warps and three fillings, together with
a binder thread. A stitching holds the layers in place.
Used for industrial fabrics and overcoatings. Also
called Triple cloth |
| TRELLIS
WORK |
Embroidery similar
to Roman cut work. In trellis work, the floral figures
climb over a trellis-like design |
| TRIACETATE |
Triacetate differs
from acetate in that, they have a crisper handle,
resemble more truly the easy-care synthetics, absorb
less water than acetate, are more stable, wash well and
dry rapidly and lose less strength when wet. A heat
treatment is employed on garments for durable pleating
and creasing. See also Acetate. |
| TRIAXIAL
LOOM |
A loom, which lays
in yarn in three directions instead of the usual two.
See Triaxial weaving. |
| TRIAXIAL
WEAVING |
A weaving
operation that goes one step beyond the conventional
weaving, by introducing a third end into the operation.
Two sets of warp ends and one weft are interlocked at
60º angle. |
| TRICEL |
Trade name of a
triacetate fibre, which is used on its own and mixed
with other fibres to make a wide range of fabrics of
varying types and weights, both woven and knitted. The
fibre resists dirt, is fairly crease-resistant and is
harder wearing than acetate although similar in
appearance. |
| TRICEL
SUEDE |
Soft, supple knit
fabric with pile surface and sometimes also may be
punched. Used for a variety of fabrics sports and
leisure clothes. |
| TRICEL
VELOUR |
Tricel yarn
knitted in combination with nylon or polyester results
in a rich pile fabric that is soft and comfortable to
wear. Fabrics dye well and therefore carry rich strong
colors well and also black. Pale colors tend to look
patchy but are very attractive. Used for jumpsuits,
skirts, casual clothes, leisure wear and in heavier
weight for drapes and furnishings. |
| TRICELON |
Trade name for a
blended yarn of tricel and nylon. The combination of
these two yarns produces a soft fabric with superb
draping qualities. Fabrics made from Tricelon are
generally lightweight and used for dresses, blouses and
lingerie. Fabrics may be woven or knitted. Tricelon
makes an ideal fabric for permanent
pleating. |
| TRICHROMATIC
SYSTEM |
See under Colour
measurement. |
| TRICOMPONENT
FIBRE |
A fibre consisting
of three polymers which are chemically different,
physically different, or any combination of such
differences. |
| TRICOT |
The most common,
and the simplest, warp-knit fabric. Lightweight,
run-resistant, warp knit fabric characterized by
vertical ribs or wales on the right side and slight
crosswise ribs on the wrong side. The fabric has 'give'
and is comfortable. Almost any fibre can be made into
tricot, including silk, polyester, nylon and viscose.
Used for underwear, nightwear and lining fabric. Also
used in nylon for sheets, lightweight furnishings and
plush fabric. |
| TRICOT
STITCH |
A very simple
crocheted needlework in plain, straight
pattern |
| TRICOT
WARP-KNITTING MACHINE |
A warp-knitting
machine generally using bearded or compound needles
mounted vertically, or nearly so, in which the fabric is
supported and controlled by sinkers. The fabric is
removed from the knitting point at approximately 90° to
the needles' movement (nearer the horizontal than the
vertical). |
| TRICOTINE |
The name implies a
knit fabric, but it is in fact a twill-weave dress
fabric woven as double twill, giving a pair of diagonal
lines on the right side. May be made from any fibre,
including worsted, polyester, acrylic,
viscose. |
| TRILAM |
A plain weave
laminated fabric, made from polyester scrim coated with
polyester film, for use as sails. |
| TRILOBAL |
A fibre with a
modified cross-section having three lobes like a clover
leaf. |
| TRIM |
To cut off a
portion of a textile material. |
| TRIM
PRESSING |
See under
Boarding. |
| TRIMMINGS |
The comopnents of
a garment, other than the main fabrics and sewing
threads. |
| TRIPLE
CLOTH |
See Treble
cloth. |
| TRIPLE
SHEER |
A tightly woven
sheer fabric with a fine, flat surface; almost opaque.
Both warp and weft yarns are usually given extra twist.
Used for women's dresses, blouses and evening
wear. |
| TRIPLE
VOILE |
See
Ninon |
| TRISTIMULUS
VALUES |
The amounts of
three defined primaries (usually blue, red, and green)
required to be mixed additively to match the colour of
the object, under defined conditions. |
| TRIVINYL
FIBRE |
A manufactured
fibre from a synthetic terpolymer of cyanoethane
(acrylonitrile), a chlorinated vinyl monomer and a third
vinyl monomer, none of which represents as much as 50%
of the total mass. |
| TROPICAL
SUITING |
A light weight,
plain-weave suiting for men's and women's summer wear.
It has various weaves and is made of a variety of
fibres. See also Tropical worsted. |
| TROPICAL
WEIGHT |
A yard of worsted
suiting weighs from 198 to 312 grams. A lightweight
fabric suitable for warm climates. |
| TROPICAL
WORSTED |
A plain or fancy
weave worsted cloth, very light in weight and mainly in
light colours, beige and white. An excellent cloth for
hot weather as the high-twist worsted yarn makes it
cool. It pleats and creases well. Used for men's suits,
women's suits, trousers, etc. |
| TROPUNTO |
A type of quilting
in which the design is outlined with single stitches and
padding is drawn from the back, filling each part of the
design separately, giving a high relief
effect. |
| TROUGH |
See
Beck. |
| TROUGHED
SHED |
In weaving, a warp
shed in which two sheets that form the shed are under
different tensions in order to improve
cover. |
| TROUSER |
A two-legged
outerwear garment, covering the body from the waist down
to the ankles and is divided so as to make a separate
covering for each leg. Trousers may be made up with
pleats in the top side and described as 'pleated
fronts'; otherwise they are known as 'plain fronted
trouser'. |
| TROUSER
BINDING |
See Kick
tape. |
| TROUSER
BRAID |
A flat, usually
black, braided narrow fabric with closely interlaced
threads at the sides and more open interlacing in the
centre, having a core thread on each side of a more
loosely constructed centre. It is usually made of
continuous filament yarn and used on formal
dress. |
| TRUE |
The uniform
diameter of wool fibres. See also Untrue
wool. |
| TRUE
BIAS |
See under Bias
binding. |
| TRUE DRAW
RATIO |
See under Draw
ratio. |
| TRUE
HEMP |
See under
Hemp. |
| TRUE
SILK |
Silk produced by
the larvae of the moth Bombyx mori. |
| TRUE
STITCH |
Sewing with a
threaded embroidery needle so that the ornamentation is
the same on both sides of the fabric. |
| TRUNNIONS |
In zippers, the
two pivots at the end of the pull that fit into the
bail. |
| TRUTH
MARK |
An identification
mark applied close to the ends of a piece of fabric by
various means, such as weaving in a contrasting colour
of yarn, using a marker pen, punching a logo etc. The
purpose of the mark is to show that the piece has
remained intact between processes or between mill and
cus-tomer. |
| TRY-ON |
The individual
fitting of a garment for the purpose of confirming the
size, shape and fit, either before or after the garment
is completed. |
| TUB SILK |
Washable
silk. |
| TUBE |
1. A holder or
bobbin of cylindrical shape used as a core for a yarn
package of cylindrical form.
2. A cylindrical yarn
package formed by winding on a tube. |
| TUBE
TWIST |
The smooth plied
yarn that has been twisted through a compressor; the
yarn generally is composed of 8 or more single yarns, as
distinguished from ring twist. |
| TUBING |
Braided, knitted,
or woven fabric of cylindrical form having a width of 4
in. or more (circumference of 8 in or
more). |
| TUBULAR
FABRIC |
1. See
Tubing.
2. A knitted tubular fabric made on a
circular knitting machine. Various kinds are used for
under-wear and hosiery. |
| TUBULAR
WELT |
See under
Welt. |
| TUBULAR
YARN |
See under
Hollow-filament yarn. |
| TUCK |
1. A lightweight
fabric of cotton, silk or man-made fibre with pleats
running from selvedge to sel-vedge and formed with a
separate warp and a weft usually heavier than that used
for the ground weave. Used for shirts, bloused,
etc.
2. In twisted or plaited rope, a free strand
placed between the rope strands during
splicing. |
| TUCK
STITCH |
A knitting stitch
which produces tuck effects by having certain needles
hold more than one stitch at a time. Used for underwear
and outerwear fabrics. |
| TUCK-IN
SELVEDGE |
See under
Selvedge. |
| TUCKED
SEAM |
A complex seam
formed on the inside of the object with neither raw edge
enclosed, having one visible line of topstitching on the
face side and a visible free folded edge (tuck). A
tucked seam is made by the same steps as the lapped
seam, except the topstitching is farther from the fold 6
to 10 mm. (Compare Lapped seam.) |
| TUCKING |
A type of fulling
process in which the fabric is soaked, slowly heated to
the boiling point, and then slowly cooled, heavily
shrinking and thickening the cloth to and extent that
the individual yarns are virtually imperceptible. See
also Fulling. |
| TUMBLE
DRYING |
A process carried
out on a textile article after washing, with the
intention of removing residual water by treatment with
hot air in a rotating drum. A method of drying fabrics
or garments in hot air (up to 180º F) with air
circulating through the articles for 30 to 40 minutes.
Sometimes a tumbler with no heat also is used. This
method is called 'tumble cold'. |
| TURNBACK
CHECKS |
A cotton fabric
with small, woven coloured checks and solid coloured
borders. Made with single yarns, with about 90 ends and
40 picks per square inch; yarn sizes being in the
neighborhood of 20's. |
| TUSCAN |
A fine yellow
straw obtained from the tops of bleached wheat stalks in
Tuscany, Italy. Often woven in lace-like
patterns |
| TUSSAH
SILK |
Also known as Wild
silk. A darker silk and not easy to make white, so
colors are usually cream and dyed colors. Fabrics are
thick and usually plain or hopsack weave. Some are like
hessian in weight but softer. The yarn has an uneven
slub, which gives it a rough texture to the cloth. Used
for suits, dresses, skirts, and shirts. See also Wild
silk. |
| TUSSORE |
A fabric woven
from the coarse silk called Tussah. |
| TWEED |
Fabric made from
strong quality spun woollen yarns, somewhat coarse in
terms of comparative yarn fineness and they are rather
tough in handle; the wool qualities being selected for
strength and resilience rather than softness. This term
is now applied to fabric in a wide range of weights and
qualities made from woollen yarns in various weaves and
sophisticated colour effects. The one exception to the
general description of tweed is the Shetland tweed,
which is made from soft wool of the Shetland sheep which
is plucked from the animal and not shorn.
Tweeds are
used for suitings and coatings and this full-handling
resilient type of fabric tailors beautifully and wears
very well. The roughness of the wool is sometimes too
uncomfortable and in the past this has meant extra
lining, which tends to add to the weight and cost.
However by the use of bonding techniques the
scratchiness of tweed can be eliminated and the
introduction of lighter-weight qualities has helped to
overcome objections on heaviness. |
| TWILL |
A type of weave,
made by varying the order of interlacing the yarns, so
that diagonal lines are produced and repeats over three
or more ends and picks, on the face of the fabric. Any
fibre can be woven in various types of twill
weave. |
| TWILL
DIRECTION |
The direction of a
twill is generally described as a fabric is viewed
looking along the warp. 'Twill right' then refers to the
diagonal running upwards to the right [&], and the
'twill left' to the diagonal moving upwards to the left
[%]. By analogy with twist direction in yarns, an
alternative method is to describe 'twill right' as 'Z'
and 'twill left' as 'S'. |
| TWILL
WEAVE |
One of the three
basic types of weave, the other two being Plain weave
and Satin weave. Can be produced in a much greater
numerical variety. These weaves all possess the twill
characteristic, which is the presence of diagonal lines
across the fabric. The twill effect is produced by the
stepping one yarn space to the right of each successive
weft yarn interlacings (warp interlacings, being equal,
also move similarly). This movement enables yarns to be
closed up effectively to make a compact but supple
fabric, but as in the case of hopsack looseness begins
to show if interlacings are increased much more than 3
yarns. |
| TWIN
FABRICS |
Fabrics intended
for use in combination. |
| TWIST |
The helical
configuration of fibres or filaments in a yarn. The
number of turns about its axis per unit of length
observed in a yarn or other textile strand. This is
generally indicated as T.P.I. (turns per inch) or T.P.M
(turns per metre). It is also measured by helix angle in
a structure of known diameter. |
| TWIST
ANGLE |
The angle between
the path of a yarn element and the yarn
axis |
| TWIST
BALANCE |
In corded
constructions. The relationship of primary and final
twist to each other and to the cord size such, that
residual torsional effects are nullified. |
| TWIST
LIVELINESS |
The tendency of a
yarn to twist or untwist spontaneously. Snarling of
yarns during processing and spirality in knitted fabrics
are examples of effects, which may be caused by twist
liveliness. The direction of twist liveliness or torque,
S or Z, is that of the twist change which takes place
spontaneously when an end of yarn or hanging loop is
allowed to rotate. |
| TWIST
SETTING |
A technique for
fixing (setting) to prevent snarling and kinking in the
yarn. |
| TWISTLESS
SPINNING |
A system of yarn
formation that relies on the use of a permanent or
temporary adhesive to bond fibres together. Where a
temporary adhesive is used it is removed during fabric
finishing, and the yarn (and fabric) strength is then
obtained through lateral pressure produced by the
interlacings in the fabric. A similar fabric
construction can be achieved by using wrap spun yarns,
which have been produced with a soluble binder. See also
Spinning |
| TWISTLESS
YARN |
A yarn prepared
without twist in order to obtain special properties,
e.g. increased softness and dyeability. |
| TWO-AND-TWO
CHECK |
A check pattern
formed by arranging both warp and weft with two threads
of one colour alternating with two threads of another
colour or white. The same colours are used in the weft.
Plain weave is used. |
| TWO-FOR-ONE
TWISTING |
A system, which
inserts two turns of twist for each revolution of a
twisting element. This is achieved by inserting one turn
of twist between a stationary feed package and rotating
disc and a further turn between the latter and a balloon
guide.
If doubling is involved, either a single
assembly-wound package or two separate single-wound
packages may be used as the supply. When the
single-wound packages are joined together, the system is
called Clip-cone two-for-one twisting. |
| TWO-STAGE
TWISTING |
Also called Stage
twisting. A system of producing yarn which consists of
two stages: (i) inserting a low level of twist into a
yarn or yarns by ring twisting, and (ii) taking the
product of (i) and uptwisting to insert the desired
amount of twist. |
| TWO-WAY STRETCH
YARNS |
Also called Stage
twisting. A system of producing yarn which consists of
two stages: (i) inserting a low level of twist into a
yarn or yarns by ring twisting, and (ii) taking the
product of (i) and uptwisting to insert the desired
amount of twist.
Textured yarn in a woven fabric
provides increased bulk and comfort because both warps
and fillings are textured-stretch. |
| TYRE
TEXTILES |
Textile materials
that are used in the manufacture of rubber
tyres. |
| TYRE
YARN |
Yarn that is used
in the manufacture of the textile carcase of rubber
tyres. |
