| Tab |
1. Starting point of a weave. Term derived from tabby when used in relation to plain weave. When
two or more weaves are combined to form a stripe, check, or figured design, a better fit of the
weaves and a neater edge to the figure is obtained by ensuring that the weaves used are ‘on the tab’ or on the correct footing relative to each other..
2. Area at, or near the beginning and end of a Turkish towel, where there is no pile. Hem section
would be too bulky and less firm if piles are used in this area. |
| Tabaret |
Finely woven, yarn-dyed furnishing fabric that has alternate warp-stripes of satin and plain weave.
|
| Tabby |
1. A plain silk taffeta especially with moiré finish; also, a plain-woven fabric.
2. Watered effect produced on fabric bypassing the material between engraved rollers. |
| Taber |
Machine for testing abrasion resistance of fabrics. |
| Table Coverings |
Fabrics of cotton, linen, rayon, synthetics and blends are used to cover tables. Crash, damask,
organdie, checked gingham, dobby, etc. are some of the main fabric types used. |
| Table Linen |
1. Any cloth, regardless of fibre content, that is suitable for a table covering.
2. Linen such as tablecloths and napkins for the table. |
| Table Padding |
Soft cotton fabric napped on both sides or quilted. Used mainly as silence cloth. |
| Tablet Weaving |
Method of making woven plain or patterned narrow fabrics. Warp shed is controlled by tablets made of thin, stiff material, e.g. cardboard, plastic, bone, etc. Tablets are usually about 5 to 10cm. square, although other shapes, e.g. triangles, hexagons, etc., are also used. Each tablet has a hole at each corner through which the warp yarns are threaded. Rotating the tablets controls the rise and fall of the warp yarns. |
| Tabs |
Ends of fabric less than 1yard length. |
| Tack |
Property which rubber or rubber compounds possess, which causes two layers of these materials,
when pressed together, to adhere at the area of contact. |
| Tacking |
1. Stitch. Machine stitch or hand stitch employed for reinforcing parts of garment. Sometimes these
stitches serve decorative purpose also.
2. In sections of industry, term is used to mean the same as basting.
3. Sometimes also called Bagging. |
| Tacking Cut |
Fabric defect. Small holes or cuts along the selvedge of the cloth, caused by holes remaining after
fabric has been tacked (sewn) along edges to protect face of cloth during wet finishing. |
| Tackspun Fabric |
Material made from polymer film with backing substrate. Film is melted on a roller, to which it
adheres. As the film and roller separate a fibrous pile is formed. |
| Tack-spun Fabric |
A material made from a polymer film with a backing substrate. The film is melted by a roller to
which it adheres, drawing up a fibrous pile. |
| Tactel |
New type of filament nylon yarn, particularly suitable for manufacture of woven and knitted fabrics
for sportswear. A strong nylon fibre that breaths and is very easy to wash which makes it ideal for
sportswear. |
| Tadpole Éponge |
Éponge, made with several plain ends alternating with a loop yarn in the warp and plain weft. Loops are scattered over the face. |
| Taffeta |
Originally taffeta was a smooth, fine, close, plain weave, fabric made from even yarns of shiny
filament, usually silk of light or medium weight. The fabric had sheen and its stiff handle produced a rustling noise when worn as a garment. It was a fairly square fabric so that an even surface was
presented. However, increasing quantities of taffeta are now made which are not square and they
have, more closely set warp yarns than weft yarns and this produces a faint rib effect across the
fabric.
Though originally a silk fabric, now more likely to be composed of acetate, triacetate, nylon or
blends of these. A stiff finish is usually given to the fabric to produce the authentic rustle. It is
characteristically crisp with a faint weft-way rib and is usually plain coloured but can be printed.
It is not hard-wearing, so its use is confined to evening wear, stiff petticoats, lampshades and drapes,and small items such as cummerbunds, artificial flowers, evening bags, stage costumes and linings.
Taffeta is used as a dress blouse fabric or as a lining and in certain types of lingerie.
Some synthetic fibre taffetas are given a finish, which produces a paper-like crackle, and these are
known as ‘paper taffetas’. |
| Taffeta Glacé |
Changeable taffeta with high lustre made with different colours in warp and weft. |
| Taffetaline |
Plain weave fabric made of waste silk, finished in imitation of taffeta. Made in various qualities.
Mainly used for lining dress skirts. |
| Taffeta Metallique |
Taffeta with a metallic colour effect given in the finish. |
| Taffeta Ribbon |
Ribbon of continuous filament yarn in plain weave, with a relatively high warp density
and a very fine, almost imperceptible rib, generally with a selvedge of contrasting weave. |
| Taffetine |
Lightweight, plain weave, slightly stiffened fabric made with closely spaced organzine warp and
coarser cotton, linen or silk wefts. Used for linings.
|
| Taffetized Fabrics |
Range of cotton fabrics given a permanent partially glazed surface finish, which suggests taffeta.. |
| Taffetized Finish |
Non-permanent crisp finish applied to fabrics to give a rustle similar to taffeta. |
| Tag Cloth |
See Label cloth. |
| Tag Wool |
The first clip from a sheep not shorn as a lamb. |
| Tahband |
A fuzzy or downy surface produced on a fabric or felt in which, part of the fibre is raised from the basic structure, either on one side or both. Nap may be raised in stripes or other patterns or may be sheared to obtain uniform length. Loosely twisted yarns are incorporated in fabric, which is to be napped to facilitate this process; generally used in the weft. The interlacings between the warp and weft threads are covered to a great extent by the nap, which also acts as an insulator. The length of the nap varies in the different fabrics which are given this type of finish, e.g. flannel, blanketing, overcoating. Certain knit goods also are napped, such as the various types of brushed knit fabrics of man-made fibres. The brushing is done generally with wire brushes or teasel burrs. Nap is not to be confused with pile, which is formed by extra yarn in a different operation. |
| Tail |
Length of yarn wound onto a cheese or cone at the commencement of winding that protrudes from
the main build-up of yarn and can later be attached to the free end yarn of a second package during magazine creeling. |
| Tail End |
End of piece of fabric, where the piece is finished on the loom. Opposite of ‘head end’. |
| Tailed Cotton |
Stringy cotton resulting from the ginning of cotton when it is too damp. |
| Tailing |
Dyeing defect. Gradual change in colour along length of material to which colorant has been applied by padding or other continuous techniques. |
| Tailor’s Chalk |
Piece of flat pipe clay, either square or triangular in shape, used for manufacture of marking cloth. |
| Tailor’s Twist |
Coarse, strong silk sewing thread used by tailors.
|
| Tak Dyeing |
Continuous dyeing process for carpets. Main steps of the process are: carpet wetting out, dye and
auxiliary chemicals application, dye fixing in festoon steamer and carpet washing and drying in one
pass through carpet drying range |
| Take Down |
Device fitted in knitting machine, which ensures that fabric is removed from knitting machine at
constant linear rate or at constant tension. |
| Take-up |
1. In a fabric, the difference in distance between two points in a yarn as it lies in a fabric and the
same two points after the yarn has been removed from the fabric and straightened under specified
tension, expressed as a percentage of the straightened length.
2. A device in sewing machine to control supply of thread required by stitch forming parts.
|
| Talc |
Soft magnesium silicate hydrate usually used for weighting cotton fabrics.. |
| Tambour |
1. A term, which signifies work done on the embroidery machine in which the tambour stitch has
been used. This stitch produces a pattern of straight ridges, which cross each other in every direction at right or acute angles.
2. Tambour is also a variety of Limerick lace that is made in Ireland.
3. Embroidery frame, round. |
| Tambour Lace |
Piece of net stretched on a frame and yarn is drawn by a hooked or tambour needle through meshes of net. Tambour work is of Eastern origin and the term tambour derived from drum or tambourine-shaped form on which the work was done. In the strictest sense of the word, it is not a lace, but an embroidery work. |
| Tanera |
Trade name of a textile version of leather. Product is a random entanglement of polyester fibres thatis given the same conventional finish that leather receives. It uses no substrates, coatings, or backing materials and is made in various thicknesses and weights. |
| Tangle |
Mass of fibre, raw stock, yarn, etc. |
| Tangling |
Entangled condition of two or more layers of tow, which have become intertwined and withdrawn in that state. Usually it may shake out or become disengaged before it reaches the first banding jet or its guide; if not, a break will occur. |
| Tangle Laced Fabric |
In formed fabrics, bonding done by tangling the fibres rather than by stitching or spot binding. |
| Tanis |
Tie-cords or strings used to fasten or tighten a garment when worn. |
| Tannic Acid |
See Tannin. |
| Tannin |
Synonym is Tannic acid. Yellowish white to light brown, amorphous, bulky powder of flakes or
spongy masses occurring in the bark and fruit of many plants, notably in the bark of the oak species, in sumac and myrobalan, and Chinese or Turkish nutgall.
It gives insoluble precipitates with albumin, starch, gelatin and most–alkaloidal and metallic salts.
The tannates, formed with the acetates of the heavy metals, such as those of aluminium, copper,
chromium, lead, tin and zinc, are used as mordants in the dyestuffs industry.
The tanning agents are largely employed in the tanning of leather, in dyeing, in sizing silk, and for
the preparation of dyestuffs. Their application in dyeing is based on the fact that they are readily
absorbed by the textile fibres, notably cotton, linen, silk and nylon, and on the property of forming
insoluble compounds in the fibres, on the one hand, with the heavy metals and with antimony, and
on the other hand with the basic dyestuff. The tannins are extensively employed in the preparation
of silk, both to strengthen and to weigh the fibre. Tannin mordents are also used on wool, silk, and
nylon to form a resist for cross dyeing. |
| Tanquis |
A type of long staple fibre cotton. |
| Tapa Cloth |
Non-woven fabric made of beaten bark fibres of the mulberry tree. Layers of cleansed bark are
beaten with mallets into a web, which may be made as fine as muslin or tough and leathery. It is
easily bleached, dyed and printed. Excellent printed designs are applied by primitive means. It does serve for apparel and decorative use among the natives of the Pacific Islands. Usage mostly limited to the Pacific Islands. |
| Tape |
1. Single ply narrow fabric, usually of plain-weave, sometimes knitted, used in non-load bearing
applications or reinforcing of fabrics to resist wear and deformation.
2. A woven narrow fabric, generally plain-weave, used in non-load bearing applications and the
reinforcing of fabrics to resist wear and deformation.
3. A long narrow flat structure with textile-like properties made from thermoplastic polymer, paper,
or other appropriate material.
4. A modelling term. Most commercials for television are videotaped rather than filmed. It is
common to refer to the medium as ‘tape’ rather than film. |
| Taped Ends |
Weaving defect. Two or more warp yarns drawn through the healds and reed as one as a result of being stuck together after sizing process. |
| Taped Seam |
Seam, which includes straight tape. Normally used to prevent stretching and for strength. |
| Tape Ends |
In zippers, tape extending beyond the stops at either or both ends of the stringers. |
| Tape Yarn |
A yarn used for knitwear in the form of a tape with a large width-to-thickness ratio. Such yarns
are typically formed by weaving or knitting. Knitted tape yarns are often made on circular knitting
machines, giving them a tubular cross-section. |
| Tape-finished Hem |
Raw edge of garment or household textile that is finished by attaching and stitching a seam-binding tape to cover the raw edge. |
| Tape, Oriented |
A tape made by extruding a thermoplastic polymer, usually a polyolefin, in the form of a sheet or
film, slitting the sheet into tapes and hot-stretching to induce molecular orientation and hence high
longitudinal strength. |
| Taper Line Gratings |
Transparent plates containing lines more widely spaced at one end than the other. By selecting
the appropriate taper line grating and placing it parallel to a set of threads in a woven fabric, it is
possible to ascertain the number of threads per unit length (cm or inch) as a result of a star form
created. These gratings can also be used to determine the number of courses per unit length in weft-knitted fabrics, or the number of dents per unit length in a reed. |
| Tape Selvedge |
Closely woven, tape-like selvedge, which consists of two or more additional threads woven in basket weave, differing in construction and appearance from the body of the fabric. This gives the fabric added strength and also helps resist curling. |
| Tapestry |
Originally ornamental Oriental embroideries in which coloured threads of wool, gold, silk, or silver
were interspersed for adornment. At present tapestry, for the most part, is power-loomed on dobby looms and Jacquard looms. Hand woven tapestry is still made, of coarse, and in centres, which were founded centuries ago. Some distinctive tapestry designs or motifs are linked with names such as Arras, Abusing, Beavers, Brussels, Gobelin, Gothic, Lille, Savonnerie and Verduresmachine. |
| Tapestry Carpet |
Patterned carpet woven by single pile Wilton process, in which a warp, printed before weaving,
is used to produce the design. When the pile is cut, the carpet is known as tapestry velvet.
|
| Tapestry Velvet Carpet |
Cut-pile carpet woven from printed-pile warp or single frame of yarn. It was traditionally woven on
a tapestry carpet loom with bladed wires. |
| Tapestry Weave |
Construction in which wefts are battened so closely as to conceal the warps. Used especially
in ‘navajo’ weaving.
|
| Tape Yarn |
A yarn which comprises a tape with a large width-to-thickness ratio, and which has an apparent
width not exceeding an agreed limit (e.g., 5mm or 8mm). Note: such yarns are usually of paper
or are formed by slitting a wide film of (usually) polyethylene or polypropylene polymer into
individual tapes, with hot-stretching either before or after slitting to induce high longitudinal
strength. The draw ratio in hot-stretching is kept low enough to avoid excessive longitudinal
fibrillation. The tape yarn so produced is suitable for weaving. |
| Tap Pants |
A loose-fitting woman's undergarment of a style similar to shorts formerly worn for tap dancing |
| Tappa Cloth |
Special type hand-made white fabric manufactured by natives of Marquises Islands. Fabric is made
by beating together bast or bark of mulberry paper tree. The colour of tappa cloth can be fast when dyed with vegetable dyestuffs. |
| Tappet Fabric |
Fabric woven in simple weave structure that may be woven on a cam or tappet loom. |
| Tare |
1. Deduction from weight of merchandise plus container, made in allowance for weight of the
container
2. To yield specified proportion or degree of wool top over noil, as, this wool tares well. |
Tarlatan |
Open, plain weave coarse cotton with starched finish, resembling coarse net. Highly inflammable.
Used in millinery and for stiffening belts as well as for extra stiff petticoats or bustle effects. Often
used for stage costumes. |
| Tarnish Prevention Fabric |
Chemically treated, napped cloth used to wrap silver and to line silver chests, to protect silver from
oxidising. |
| Tarnish Resistant Flannel |
Flannel dyed with colours free from sulphur and other substances that possess a tendency to tarnish silver and impregnated with chemicals that absorb sulphur fumes. Used to wrap silver and to line silver chests. |
| Tarpaulin |
1. General term for heavy waterproof canvas fabric used as protective cover for cargo, etc. from
weather. Originally made of cotton duck waterproofed with tar. Also plain weave jute or hemp
fabric made with taped ends and single filling, waterproofed with tar, paint or other waterproofing
substances. Now made of nylon and other synthetic fibres.
2. A sailor's "storm hat" is sometimes called a tarpaulin. |
| Tarred Rope |
Rope that has received an application of tar on it to increase its resistance to the deteriorating effect of water. Yarns for this cordage are usually treated with tar by dipping and saturating process. It also imparts added abrasion resistance. |
| Tartan |
Authentic tartan designs belong to individual Scottish clans, although many other people now
wear them. Woollen or worsted in twill weave. Each tartan has elaborately coloured check design.
Traditional garment is pleated kilt, but tartan cloth is also used for trousers, shawls and fashion
garments. The weight of the cloth varies considerably. Many ornately checked fabrics are available
which are not authentic tartan, but often made from acrylic or cotton. |
| Tartan Checks |
Plain or twill weave cotton dress fabric with standard patterned Scotch plaids. May also refer to
fibred fabric with a similar plaid pattern. |
| Tassel |
1. Pendant trimming with tuft of loose yarn at the end of a length of rope-like material. Used for
dresses, coats, curtains and upholstery.
2. Embroidery stitch used to form fringe. |
| Tasteless |
The Basques of early 17th century doublets. |
| Tattersal |
A heavy, fancy woollen vesting of ‘loud appearance’. Checks, bold effects and gaudy colour
combinations are used in the material, which is often used for some suiting and overcoating, as well. Named for the famous mart for thoroughbred and racing stock in London. |
| Tattersall Check |
Weave design having large, loud check woollen cloth, often in black and white with another colour.
Used for overcoats, hats, caps and capes for men. Tattersal checks also feature in shirtings and
leisurewear fabrics. |
| Tatting |
Lace work, of varying coarseness, depending on thread used (usually crochet thread). Made by using a shuttle with thread wound on to it, and using the fingers of the other hand in conjunction with it. Usually used only for edgings, motifs, or tablemats. |
| Tatting Cotton |
Fine, hard twist, cotton thread used for tatting. |
| Taupe |
A brownish-grey colour, from the French word for ‘mole’ |
| Tawny |
A brownish orange to light brown. |
| Tea Gown |
A semiformal fancy gown in graceful flowing lines worn especially for afternoon entertaining at
home |
| Teal Blue |
A variable colour averaging a dark greenish-blue. |
| T-cloth |
Coarse, plain weave cotton cloth made with approximately same number of ends and picks per
square inch and heavily sized. Originally produced in Great Britain and exported in the loom state to the Orient and other markets. The name was derived from the mark ‘T’ of the original exporters. |
| TE |
See Total elongation. |
| Tear |
1. Fabric defect. Opening in the structure of fabric in which several warp or weft yarns, or both, are
severed.
2. The ratio of top to noil produced in combing. |
| Teardrop |
Defect in woven fabrics. Fabric condition characterized by short crescent-like elliptical deviations
of one or more adjoining picks, caused by insufficient warp tension, incorrect harness timing, over-
sized warp, uneven penetration of sizing solution. Teardrops are most pronounced in taffetas and
grosgrain weaves. |
| Teariness |
See Tear drop. |
| Tearing |
Tearing of a fabric. |
| Tear Resistance |
1. A measurement of fabric strength. Also, a property imparted by using ‘rip stop’ yarns in close
woven fabrics.
2. The force required to start or continue or propagate a tear in a geotextile under specified
conditions. |
| Tear Strength |
The force necessary to tear a fabric, usually expressed in pounds or in grams. The most commonly
used method for determination of tear strength is the Elmendorf tear test procedure. |
| Tearing Strength |
1, Resistance of fabric to tearing.
2. Average force required for starting a tear in a fabric under specified conditions. |
| Teazling |
A prickly burr about two inches long and one inch in diameter, rugged and tough, and has the
appearance of porcupine. These plant burrs are much used in finishing fabrics such as blankets,
flannels, coatings, and other napped fabrics. Teasels are set in rows across the width of the napper and fill the entire surface of the napping roller. Another way of napping is by the use of card clothing wire rollers, which raise the loose, protruding fibres on the fabric in question. |
| Tebelizing |
A crush-resistant finish applied to many fabrics, including pile fabrics, and giving material the power
to resist creasing, mussing and crushing as well as to recover from wrinkling during wear. The fabric remains the same after washing. |
| Technical Textiles |
Textile materials and products manufactured primarily for their technical performance and functional
properties rather than their aesthetic or decorative characteristics. Some of the end-uses include,
aerospace, industrial, marine, medical, military, safety and transport textiles and geo textiles. |
| Teddy Bear Cloth |
Napped fleece coating made of wool and mohair.
|
| Teentah Topi |
A topi consisting of three different pieces, stitched together. |
| Teflon |
Trade name for DuPont’s tetrafluoroethylene polymer fibre, announced in 1953. Products made
it with Teflon fluoroplymer resins have exceptional resistance to high temperatures, chemical
reaction, corrosion, and stress-cracking, making it the preferred plastic for a host of applications.
As a fibre, it is used to manufacture socks that reduce friction and blisters and in other demanding
applications throughout industry. The fibre is of smooth, circular surface and the cross-section is
round.
It does not absorb moisture and is the most non-wettable fibre known to man. It possesses
excellent thermal stability is very tough and strong, and also chemical resistant. It remains inert to
almost all types of chemicals. As a liquid, it offers water and stain repellents for the apparel, home
fashions, furniture, diaphragm fabrics and uniform markets. It is also applied in non-stick coatings
for cookware, semiconductor manufacturing, communication cables, repel dirt and spills from
carpet, wall coverings and graphics. |
| Tekka |
Plaited cord made of native wool in Algeria and generally dyed one colour. Used by Arab men to tie
trousers. |
| Teklan |
Trade name for a modacrylic fibre, which is strong and hardwearing but also soft, warm and
light and can be bulked. Has good resistance to sunlight, bacteria and chemicals and, above all, is
nonflammable. Used mainly in woven and knitted dress materials, and household textiles, such
as net curtains and furnishing fabrics, and because it is particularly flame-resistant, for children’s
nightwear. |
| Temple |
Device used on looms to hold the cloth at the fell as near as possible to the width of the warp in the reed; to control the fabric width. Set at the fell of the cloth, it keeps the newly woven material at the correct width so that the warp and the filling in the weaving will interlace at right angles to form proper width fabric. Also known as tempet, stretcher, and tenterhook. |
| Temple Cutting |
Fabric defect, caused by fracture of warp or weft yarn, or both, by temple pins during weaving. |
| Temple Mark |
Fabric defect in woven fabrics. Small holes, impressions, distortions, or marks adjacent to the
selvage of the fabric caused by poorly adjusted or improper temples. |
| Temperature-adaptable Fabrics |
Fabrics that have the ability to alternatively store and release heat, depending on the environmental temperature, due to the presence of temperature-sensitive polymers called PEGs (polyethylene glycols) on the surfaces of the fibres in the fabrics. |
| Temporary Set |
The process of conferring temporary stability of form upon fibres, yarns, or fabrics, usually by
means of successive heating and cooling in moist or dry conditions. |
| Tenacity |
1. A physical property of thread. A measure of the potential strength of a fibre. It is in effect the
tensile strength in grams of 1’s denier of a particular filament and is quite independent of the actual grist (thickness) of the thread.
2. The relative strength of a thread, calculated by dividing the tensile strength by the thickness of the
thread. |
| Tencel |
A cellulosic fibre invented by Courtaulds using a non-chemical solvent; made with the cellulose
from wood pulp.It was originally developed to produce viscose fibres without polluting the
environment. The end result was a new fibre which was not only environmentally friendly, more
than any other fibre, but also featured very high strength and a wonderful touch. It is stronger
than viscose cellulosic fibre and is characterised by its softness and drape. It is generically known
as ‘Lyocell’. |
| Tendel |
A variety of biaze dyed with indigo. Made in Central Asia. |
| Tender Goods |
Fabric defect. Fabric, which has become weak because of tendering. |
| Tender Spots |
Places in fabric, which has been excessively weakened, usually by exposure to processing chemicals. Also occurs in printing and finishing procedures. |
| Tendering |
Weakening of textile materials by over exposure to some treatment or finishing operation. Tendering can occur due to the use of dried-out yarn, very strong a scouring liquor, redyeing, redyeing after stripping the cloth too harshly to remove the colouring on the material, poor singeing, excessive napping, excessive shearing, etc. |
| Tender Wool |
Wool, below normal tensile strength. |
| Tendon |
A tough band of tissue, which connects muscle to bones. |
| Teneriffe Lace |
Inexpensive lace typified by a wheel design or spider’s web motif. These are often joined to make
mats or added to table linen. It is similar to Paraguay lace. |
| Tennis Cloth |
Bleached or cream-coloured fabric made of cotton, sometimes with wool filling, in a two up, two
down twill or other simple weaves, and often decorated with stripes of mercerised cotton or spun
silk. Popular for shirting, sportswear and dresses. |
| Tennis Flannel |
See Tennis cloth. |
| Tensile Strength |
A physical property of thread. The load at which a thread breaks, expressed in lb. weight or grams.
Tensile strength will vary according to the conditions of test, i.e. humidity, temperature, rate of
loading and length of thread tested |
| Tensile Strength at Break |
Tensile force recorded at the moment of rupture or the tension at which a thread breaks. |
| Tensile |
Term relating to tension in, or on, material. |
| Tensile Hysteresis Curve |
Stress-strain or complex load-elongation curve obtained when test sample is
(a) subjected to
successive applications of a load or stress less than is required to rupture and to the removal of
the load or stress according to a given procedure;
(b) stressed less than breaking elongation and is
permitted to relax by removing the strain according to the given procedure.
|
| Tensile Strain |
Relative length deformation exhibited by specimen subjected to tensile force; the extension of
material subject to tension expressed as proportion of length of the specimen. |
| Tensile Strength |
The resistance obtained by a submitted specimen to an effort of traction, considered independently
of twist, compression and shearing. The tensile strength and the ‘tensile strength at break’ may be
different if, after yield, the elongation continues and is accompanied by a drop in force resulting in tensile strength at break being lower than tensile strength. |
| Tensile Stress |
Stress within material subjected to tension.
|
| Tensile Test |
A test in which textile material is extended in one direction to determine one or more of its force-
extension; or stress-strain, characteristics, e.g. breaking force and elongation at break.
|
| Tension |
1. Force acting along a yarn or fabric sample tending to elongate it; a uniaxial force tending to cause the extension of a body or the balancing force within that body resisting the extension.
2. The stress a sewing machine applies to the thread during stitching to regulate the balance between the top and bottom threads. Generally, a looser tension is desirable to minimize sewing problems and enhance sewing performance. |
| Tension Control Weave |
A type of decorative weave, characterized by a puckered effect, which occurs because the tension in the warp yarns is intentionally varied before the filling yarns are placed in the fabric. |
| Tension Repp |
Plain weave repp, made on two warp beams, one tensioned slackly and the second tightly. Ends are arranged in a simple pattern, e.g. one tight end and alternating with one slack end. |
| Tension-supported Roof |
Fabric-roof system that is properly secured and primarily held in place by tensile forces applied
across the system. |
| Tension Test |
Test designed to measure the tautness in a textile strand or fabric. |
| Tensometer |
A laboratory device that measures the tensile strength, and therefore the tenacity, of the specimen. |
| Tent Cloth |
Strong waterproof cloth, especially duck used for tents. |
| Tenter |
Also called Stenter. A machine that dries and stretches cloth to its finished width, and straightens the weave by the action of two diverging endless chains. Each chain is equipped with a series of clips or pins that hold the edges of the cloth and convey it over gas flames or through a hot-air drying compartment. |
| Tentering |
See Stentering. |
| Tent Stitch |
Short, slanted type of needlework made in even lines of stitches from left to right. Commonly used
in embroidery. |
| Tequila Straw |
A strong, flexible fibre obtained from Jippi-Jappa leaves. Used in weaving Panama hats. No other
hat should be called ‘Panama’ or ‘Genuine Panama’. |
| Terinda |
Trade name for polyester fibre, from which a range of knitting yarns has been designed especially
for surface finishes. The yarns may be bright, dull or extra dull. Used in suede and panne fabrics. |
| Termination |
A device used at the end of a rope to secure it to a vessel, anchor, buoy, structure, etc, or to join two lengths of rope. A knot is the simplest form, but greater efficiency is achieved with splices, resin sockets, or mechanical grips. |
| Territory Wool |
Wool chiefly of fine type and shows heavy shrinkage and low yield. Much of the wool is dull, dark
and dirty ‘in-the-grease’ but it scours well to a good white. |
| Terry |
A fabric with uncut loops on one or both sides; may be woven or knit. The term has become widely
synonymous with woven Turkish towelling. Knit versions such as French terry have loops on one
side and are sometimes brushed to produce a fleece. |
| Terry Cloth |
This cloth has uncut loops on both sides of the fabric, usually made with cotton and some with
linen.. Woven on a dobby loom with Terry arrangement, various sizes of yarns are used in the
construction. Terry is also made on a Jacquard loom to form interesting motifs. It may be yarn-
dyed in different colours to form attractive patterns. It is bleached, piece-dyed, and even printed forbeachwear and bathrobes, etc. Also called Turkish towelling. Today knitted Terry is very popular in fashion. Longwearing, easy to launder and requires no ironing. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Better qualities have a close, firm, under weave, with very close loops. Very absorbent, and the longer the loop, the greater the absorbency. When the pile is only on one side, it is called ‘Turkish towelling’. Used for towels, beachwear, bathrobes, all kinds of sportswear, children's wear, slipcovers, and draperies. |
| Terry-off |
Fabric defect. Band in a terry section that has no terry loops. Usually caused by incorrect let-off
motion. |
| Terry on Plain |
Fabric defect. Terry loops appearing within a plain section of a terry fabric. Usually caused by
incorrect let-off motion. |
| Terry Towel |
Textile product with end hems or fringes and side hems or selvedges which is made with loop
pile on one or both sides generally covering the entire surface or forming stripes, checks, or other
patterns. |
| Terry Towelling |
These are classified according to weave or design:
1. Cam, Woven: Plain Terry-plain border.
2. Dobby, Woven: Simple pattern in the border, or all over. Border design include rope and corduroy borders.
3. Jacquard Woven: Those, which have rather elaborate all-over motifs, or names woven into the
goods.
4. Mitcheline: This border type has a heavy, distinct, raised or embossed border effect, formed by a
stout coloured filling yarn; the roving is used sometimes instead of a yarn to obtain the effect. Most
of this fabric is made on Jacquard looms.
5. Texture, Designed: This is made on either a dobby or a jacquard loom. It has an all-over, raised,
and recessed motif. The athletic-rib towel, which has raised terry stripes with alternating plain
ground stripes, is in this classification; also known as corduroy towelling.
These are classified according to type:
(a) All-White Plain: This has a plain border, white or colours. It also implies fancy-woven, coloured
border towelling.
(b) Bath Mat: This is a heavy type of terry made for bath mats. Coarse ply are used to
provide bulkiness, strength, and the weight necessary to give the fabric body and substance.
(c) Jacquard Reversible: All-over, this features coloured pile on side with white pile effect on the
other side. The borders are plain or fancy. The interchanging white and coloured loops form a
contrasting motif on each side of the material.
(d) Pastel, Colour Plain: It is made with dyed filling yarns, white pile yarns.
|
| Terry Velour |
A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. Terry
velour is valued for its soft, luxurious hand. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.
|
| Terry Velvet |
Velvet fabric with looped pile, produced in the same way as terry towelling. |
| Tertiary Colours |
Tertiary colours are brown, olive and grey. These shades of colour are produced by mixing any
primary colour with any secondary colour in various proportion |
| Tetrafluoroethylene |
It is Teflon. A textile fibre made in either staple or filament form from tetrafluoroethylene monomer
unit. |
| Tex |
A measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 1,000 metres of yarn. |
| Texilose |
A substitute for jute yarn, consisting of paper strips mixed with short waste textile fibres. |
| Texipiqué |
Non-jacquard double jersey fabric made on an interlock basis and consisting of a selection of knitted and tuck loops. |
| Textile |
The word has derived from Latin word ‘texere’ meaning ‘to weave’; but a wider meaning than
simply that of weaving must be accepted since that is only one of a variety of ways of making textilefabrics.
Originally a woven fabric, now generally applied to fibres, yarn intermediates, yarns, fabrics, and
products made from fabrics which retain more or less completely the strength, flexibility, and other
properties of the original fibres or filaments. A textile is a fabric made from fibres but, as shown
below, the fibres may either be converted into yarn first and then the yarns put together in one of a variety of ways to make fabrics, or the fibres can be converted directly into a fabric.
Textile Articles Yarns, piece goods and made-up articles consisting mainly of textile materials.
|
| Textile Articles |
|
| Textile Design |
Arrangement of forms or colours, or both, to be implemented for ornamentation in or on various
textile materials. Designs or patterns may be woven or knitted into the structure of a fabric; may
form a surface decoration; or a blend of colours may brighten or improve the design or pattern. |
| Textile Engineering |
Textile Engineering encompass many tasks; the salient ones being:
1. Conduct research in the chemistry of textiles and design methods to control processes of scouring, bleaching, mercerising, sizing and dyeing textile materials.
2. Prepare formulae for various phases of processing, controlling variables such as temperatures,
sequence of preparations and concentration of chemicals for treatment of silk, cotton, rayon and
other fabrics during processing.
3. Experiment with synthetic and regenerated fibres, animal hair, feathers, cellulose products and
other materials to develop new textiles.
4. Investigate problems relating to textile chemistry such as treatment of fabrics to impart it water,
fire, mildew or insect resistant retention and abrasion resistance in textiles.
5. Analyse dyes, alkalis, acids, bleach and finishing for conformance to specifications, designs, creating of new textile machinery etc. |
| Textile Fibre |
Unit of matter that is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width
and which can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by interlacing in a variety of methods,
including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, and twisting. Not, all fibres are suitable for textile
purposes because a textile fibre must possess sufficient length, fineness, strength and flexibility to
be suitable for manufacture into fabrics. The two basic forms of textile fibres are filament and staple. |
| Textile Film |
A man-made textile material in film form within which molecular orientation is predominantly in the
longitudinal direction. Note: polymer films for non-textile use are commonly unoriented or bi-axially
oriented, but uni-axial orientation is present in some cases. |
| Textile Finishing |
The non colouring process to make woven or knitted fabric more acceptable to the consumer.
Finishing processes include bleaching prior to dyeing; treatments, sizing applied after dyeing
affecting touch treatments adding properties to enhance performance, such as preshrinking. Greige fabric is generally dirty, harsh, unattractive and requires considerable skill and imagination for conversion into a desirable product. Italian textile mills are famous as being the best finishers in the world. |
| Textile Glass Fibre |
The generic name used to describe glass fibres that are suitable for textile applications. |
| Textile Industry |
Derived from the Latin ‘texere’ (to weave), and originally used to describe woven fabrics, textiles
has become a general term for fibres, yarns, and other materials that can be made into fabrics as
well as for woven or knitted fabrics. Threads, cords, ropes, braids, lace, embroidery, nets, bonding,
felting, or tufting are textiles. |
| Textile Materials |
Comprehensive term for fibres, yarns, fabrics, and products, which keep relatively the same tensile
strength, flexibility and properties of the original fibres. |
| Textile Processing |
Mechanical process or processes used to transform a textile fibre or yarn to a fabric or other textile
material. Included in these processes are: opening, carding, combing, spinning, quilling, slashing,
weaving, knitting, etc. |
| Textile Technician |
Specialist, knowledgeable in the technical details of some particular phase of textile manufacturing. |
| Textile Technologist |
Scientist who applied precise knowledge to the development or direction of various phases of textile manufacturing. |
| Textilist |
Specialist in some phase of textiles. |
| Textural Design |
Great varieties of design and texture effects, which may be produced by weave combination
of various materials and in pile fabrics as distinguished from design produced by colour. |
| Texture |
1. In fabrics, surface appearance and hand of a textile material; may be described as: dull, lustrous, woolly, stiff, soft, fine, coarse, open or closely woven, etc. Texture is independent of the colour of the material.
2. In carpets or pile floor coverings, detailed configuration of loops, cut pile ends, and individual
fibres in the pile layer. |
| Textured |
Appealing textural surface due to the use of a textured yarn. |
| Textured Filament |
Multi- or mono-filament yarn characterized by actual, or latent, filament crimps, coils or loops, with
or without twist liveliness, by which it has, or can develop by after-treatment, bulk and/or stretch
properties. |
| Textured Glass Yarn |
Yarn processed from continuous filament yarn in such a manner to induce bulk to the yarn by
disorientation of filaments.
|
| Textured Pile |
Carpet pile in which the surface character is varied, e.g. by having areas of different characteristics
or by combinations of different yarn or pile yarns, e.g. soft and hard twist. |
| Textured Yarn |
A continuous filament yam that has been processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loops or
other fine distortions along the lengths of the filaments. 1. The main texturing procedures which areusually applied to continuous-filament yarns made from or containing thermoplastic fibres, are: (a)the yarn is highly twisted, heat-set and untwisted either as a process of three separate stages (nowobsolescent) or as a continuous process (false-twist texturing). In an infrequently used alternativemethod, two yarns are continuously folded together, heat-set, then separated by unfolding;
(b)the yam is injected into a heated stuffer box either by feed rollers or through a plasticizing jet of hot fluid (invariably air or steam). The jet process is sometimes known as jet texturing, hot-air jet texturing, or steam-jet texturing;
(c) the yam is plasticized by passage through a jet of hot fluid and
is impacted on to a cooling surface (impact texturing);
(d) the heated yam is passed over a knife-
edge (edge crimping), (now obsolete);
(e) the heated yarn is passed between a pair of gear wheels
or through some similar device (gear crimping);
(f) the yam is knitted into a fabric that is heat-set
and then unravelled (knit-deknit texturing);
(g) the yam is over-fed through a turbulent air stream
(air-texturing, air-jet texturing), so that entangled loops are formed in the filaments;
(h) the yarn is
composed of bicomponent fibres and is subjected to a hot and/or wet process whereby differential
shrinkage occurs. 2: procedures (a) and (d) in note i above gives yams of a generally high-stretch
character. This is frequently reduced by re-heating the yam in a state where it is only partly relaxed
from the fully extended condition, thus producing a stabilized yarn with the bulkiness little reduced
but with a much reduced retractive power. Note 3: the procedure
(g) may also be applied to fibres
which are not thermoplastic. |
| Texture Hosiery |
Recognized by intricate, intrinsic design such as a diamond or cable link, scroll motifs, fern effect, etc., and at once discernible. The very sheer nylon type is made on fine-gauge knitting frames with a 10- to 20-denier yarn; the medium sheer types are made of nylon or "polyester" in a 30-denier yarn. Heavyweight type is made from ‘acrylic’ or wool in many colours. |
| Texturing |
The process of crimping, imparting random loops, or otherwise modifying continuous filament yarn
to increase cover, resilience, abrasion resistance, warmth, insulation, and moisture absorption or
to provide a different surface texture. Texturing methods can be placed roughly into six groups. |
| Texturing |
Method by which synthetic thermoplastic yarns are imparted additional bulk, moderate stretch and
texture. A continuous filament yarn that has been processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loops or other fine distortions along the lengths of the filaments.
Man-made fibres, in the form of continuous filaments, when twisted together to make smooth
surfaced continuous filament yarns, could not compete effectively with spun yarns, particularly those made from natural fibres, because they did not have the same hairiness, bulk and warmth of handle, or high moisture absorbency which the spun yarns possess. However, rapid expansion of texturing yarns changed the situation.
Some of the properties of spun yarns can now be given to the continuous filament man-made yarns, which are then suitable for knitting and weaving into fabrics previously thought to be well outside their scope. The drape and handle of the fabric is altered and air spaces are developed, which can result in increased comfort and warmth.
The texturing process imparts, to the stronger continuous filament synthetics; those properties
which were once associated only with staple yarns. The improved properties are developed by the
permanent introduction of crimps, coils, loops and crinkles into the straight filament.
The technique of texturing has added significance as the man-made fibre producers can now produce yarns more or less ready for weaving or knitting, without the additional processes of cutting up the extruded filaments and re-spinning the resulting staple on traditional textile machinery.
Various techniques have been developed for bringing about these filament modifications, and some methods are more in common usage than others.
Many of these processes, except Air-jet texturing, depend on the thermoplasticity of the filaments
and their ability to be deformed and then set in the deformed state by heating and cooling. False-
twist texturing, is by far the most important method and accounts for about three-quarters of the
production. There are many types of texturing processes, which are applied to continuous filament yarns made from or containing thermoplastic fibres. |
| Texturising |
See Texturing. |
| Texturity |
See Textured Yarn. |
| Texturized Yarn |
A continuous-filament yam that has been processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loops or other fine distortions along the lengths of the filaments.
1. The main texturing procedures which are usually applied to continuous-filament yarns made
from or containing thermoplastic fibres, are:
(a) the yarn is highly twisted, heat-set and untwisted
either as a process of three separate stages (now obsolescent) or as a continuous process (false-twist texturing). In an infrequently used alternative method, two yarns are continuously folded together, heat-set, then separated by unfolding;
(b) the yam is injected into a heated stuffer box either by feed rollers or through a plasticizing jet of hot fluid (invariably air or steam). The jet process is sometimes
known as jet texturing, hot-air jet texturing, or steam-jet texturing;
(c) the yam is plasticized by
passage through a jet of hot fluid and is impacted on to a cooling surface (impact texturing);
(d)
the heated yam is passed over a knife-edge (edge crimping), (now obsolete);
(e) the heated yarn is
passed between a pair of gear wheels or through some similar device (gear crimping);
(f) the yam is
knitted into a fabric that is heat-set and then unravelled (knit-deknit texturing);
(g) the yam is over-
fed through a turbulent air stream (air-texturing, air-jet texturing), so that entangled loops are formed
in the filaments;
(h) the yarn is composed of bicomponent fibres and is subjected to a hot and/or wet
process whereby differential shrinkage occurs.
2. Procedures (a) and (d) in Note 1 above gives yams of a generally high-stretch character. This is
frequently reduced by re-heating the yam in a state where it is only partly relaxed from the fully
extended condition, thus producing a stabilized yarn with the bulkiness little reduced but with a
much reduced retractive power.
3. The procedure (g) may also be applied to fibres, which are not thermoplastic.
|
| Thai Silk |
Silk from Thailand typified by a rough texture. |
| Theatrical Gauze |
Lightweight, plain weave, open textured cotton fabric with a stiff finish. It is available in many
colours. Used for theatrical costumes, curtains. The fabric was originally woven with linen yarn
and, because of its sheerness, was used in theatrical drops as an almost invisible ground for applied
foliage. |
| Thermal Blanket |
Blanket made in such a way that that cells or openings are created in the fabric so that air warmed
by the body is trapped between the yarns. Some of the measures employed to achieve this end
are usage of textured yarn or weaving in leno weave, etc. Sometimes the products are napped. |
| Thermal Bonded Batting |
Textile filling material which contains fibres having low-melting point or polymers which when
heated, fuse the batting materials together.
|
| Thermal Bonding |
Part of a production route for making non-wovens in which a web, which must contain some
meltable synthetic fibres, is heated by a hot gas or by calendering. The fibres melt and form inter-
fibre bonds. |
| Thermal Character |
Term for explaining one of the physical handling properties of apparent difference in temperature
of fabric and skin of the observer touching it, varying from cool (high) to warm (low). |
Thermal Conductance
|
See Thermal transmittance. |
| Thermal Insulation |
The property of a fabric or garment to prevent heat loss between one surface and the other. Important in outerwear garments. |
| Thermal Transmittance |
Time rate of unidirectional heat transfer per unit area, in the steady state, between parallel planes, per unit difference of temperature of the planes. |
| Thermal Conductivity |
Time rate of unidirectional heat transfer per unit area, in the steady state, between parallel planes
separated by unit distance, per unit difference of temperature of the planes.
|
| Thermal Conductivity Tester |
Laboratory device that measures resistance of a fabric to flow of heat. A cloth is a better insulator
and thus warmer when it has lower thermal conductivity. |
| Thermal Fixation |
Usage of dry heat to achieve a degree of permanence when applying colorants to textile material. |
| Thermaline Dyeing |
Solid-colour dyeing that is applied to union lustre wool fabrics. |
| Thermal Knit Fabric |
Waffle-knit fabric of cotton, wool or man-made fibre, which have an insulating quality. |
| Thermally-bonded Non-woven Fabric |
Textile fabric composed of a web or batt of fibres containing heat-sensitive material, bonded by the
application of heat, with or without pressure. The heat-sensitive materials may be in the form of
fibres, bicomponent fibres or powders.
|
| Thermally Bonded Seam |
Seam formed by heat and pressure. |
| Thermal Woven Fabric |
Porous fabric constructed in such a way that air warmed up by the body heat is trapped between the yarns. Used for blankets, winter underwear, and the reverse sides of comforters. |
| Thermally Bonded Non-woven Fabric |
Textile fabric composed of a web or batt of fibres containing heat-sensitive material, bonded by the
application of heat, with or without pressure. The heat-sensitive materials may be in the form of
fibres, bicomponent fibres or powders. |
| Thermal Resistance |
Reciprocal of thermal transmittance. |
| Thermal Resistivity |
Reciprocal of thermal conductivity. |
| Thermation Machine |
Automatic quilting machine capable of producing vinyl quilting in one step by sandwiching a layer
of filling material between two layers of vinyl.
|
| Thermofixation |
Dry heat process used for fixation of dyes on a fibre, e.g. fixation or reaction of fibre reactive dyes.
Sometimes applied to the thermosol process.
|
| Thermofix Dyeing |
Dyeing process used extensively for continuous dyeing of materials made of polyester alone or when mixed with other fibres; a process which makes effective use the property of sublimation, possessed by disperse dyes of low molecular weight. |
| Thermoplastic |
Term applied to substances that can be repeatedly deformed by the application heat and pressure
without any accompanying chemical change. |
| Thermoplastics |
A type of resin or polymer, which can be re-melted after cross-linking. Examples include
polyolefins, such as polyethylene and polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyethylene
terephthalate. |
| Thermoplastic Yarns |
Yarns, which are deformable by applying heat and pressure without any accompanying change. The deformation is reversible. |
| Thermosets |
Thermosetting resins or polymers formed by chemical cross-linking, which renders them
permanently solid. This reaction is irreversible and, unlike thermoplastics, thermosets do not melt
when heated. Typical thermosets are polyesters, acrylics, epoxies, phenolics, and vinyl esters. |
| Thermosetting |
Term applied to substances, which harden when sufficient heat is applied and thereafter become
practically infusible. |
| Thermosetting Resin |
One that can be set permanently through the application of heat; a resin that will permanently cure a fabric through heat application.
|
| Thermosoling |
Fixation by dry heat or baking. |
| Thermosol Method |
Method for dyeing of man-made fibres, especially polyester and other thermoplastic fibres, by
padding fabric with disperse dyes or selected vat pigments. Dry heat (390 to 450ºC for about one
minute) is used to make dyes migrate or ‘move’ into and colour the fibres. The so-called ‘solid
solutions’ are formed in the fibre. |
| Thermostatic Process |
Heat-treating process used on nylon fabrics to improve hand of fabrics; dimensional stability;
wrinkle-resistance and crease resistance.
|
| Thermovyl |
Non-post-chlorinated polyvinylchloride fibre of coarse staple. It is pre-shrunk by heat treatment,
which improves its heat stability and minimal strength at high extension. |
| Thick and Thin |
1. Twisted strands of fibres of varying thickness used to obtain unusual effects in weaving.
2. A fabric with a mottled appearance, made from a filament yarn with varying thickness.
|
| Thick and Thin Places |
Fabric defects.
1. Major defect. Places in fabric where for 25mm. or more the count varies more than a specified
percentage from the specified count.
2. Minor defect. Places in the fabric where for less than 1in. the count varies more than a specified
percentage from the specified count. |
| Thick Bar |
Fabric defect. Effect caused by two or more weft picks which give a thick or bloated effect in the
goods. Caused by any of the following: improper setting of the cloth in the loom after a ‘start-up’,
uneven tension and weights on the warp beam, not setting the pick-wheel correctly after stopping the loom or poor functioning of the take-up because of possible improper setting, tension or skipping. |
Thickener
|
Materials that provide required consistency to printing pastes. Starch, gums, albumen, and glues
may be thickening agents. Starch, is used mostly for printing on cloths of vegetable fibres; gums, for animal fibres; albumen for holding dyestuffs in solution and to prevent its spreading onto the cloth; and glues are frequently used in printing poor grade cottons.
|
| Thickening |
In printing, any agent used to ‘stodge up’ the liquid colouring-matter and to prevent its spread by
capillarity to unwanted areas of the cloth. It is made of natural starches or gums or of artificial ones. |
| Thickness |
In textiles, distance between upper and lower surfaces of the material, measured under a specified pressure. |
| Thickness Tester |
A laboratory device that measures the thickness of yarns and fabrics under standard pressure. |
| Thick Pick |
Fabric defect. One or more pick yarns larger in diameter than normally being used in the fabric. |
| Thick Place |
1. Yarn defect. Place in yarn characterized by diameter greater than that of the adjoining segments
and extending for 6 mm.
2. Fabric defect. Unintentional change in fabric appearance characterized by a small area of more
closely spaced yarns, or by a congregation of thick yarns as compared to the adjacent construction. |
| Thickset |
Strong corduroy with short, thick piles and twill back. Woven with high filling count per square
inch. Used for work clothing. The pile is so thickly set; as to somewhat resemble coarse velveteen. |
| Thick Stripes |
Fabric defect. Appearance of stripes too thick in diameter, which tend to throw off the general
appearance of the fabric. Usually caused by uneven yarn, incorrect drawing-in or reeding-in of the
warp threads, and incorrect yarn sizes. |
| Thigh Girth |
Term related to garment sizing. In body measurements, the maximum circumference of the upper leg close to the crotch. |
| Thin Bar |
Fabric defects.
1. Occurs in the loom when two or more warp ends do not interlace with the weft yarn. May be
caused by failure of the loom to stop or knock-off when a weft breaks or snaps, or by an irregular
action of a harness frame.
2. Thin bars may be interspersed throughout the width of the goods if a harness strap on a harness
frame breaks or skips; gives a flat in the warp direction of the cloth.
3. May also be caused by a warp end becoming broken and causing the two ends on each side of
where it should be weaving to weave side-by-side to produce a flat in the vertical direction of the
material. |
| Thin Filling |
Fabric defect in woven fabrics. Weft yarn smaller in diameter than normally being used in the fabric. |
| Thin Pick |
See Thin filling. |
| Thin Place |
1. Yarn defect. Place in yarn characterized by a segment that is substantially (at least 25%) smaller in diameter than the average diameter of the yarn.
2. Fabric defect. Unintentional change in fabric appearance characterized by, a small area of loosely
spaced yarns, often caused by the weft yarn breaking and the loom continues to run until the operator notices the problem, or a congregation of thin yarns as compared to the adjacent construction. |
| Thin Stripes |
Fabric defect. Linked with thick stripes, these come from poor set-up of the pattern, faulty weaving,
improper drawing in or reeding in of the warp yarns. |
| Thin-walled Cotton Fibre |
Term used in relation to cotton maturity. Fibre, which does not fall into either the normal or dead
categories. |
| Third Combing |
Wool taken from the lower part of the back of the fleece. |
| Third Generation Man-made Fibres |
Phase of development is characterized by custom-tailoring fibres for specialized markets. The
qualities of performance and aesthetics are now being built in to the fibres in the production stage. |
Thornproof Tweed
|
Characteristic type of tweed with Salt and pepper colouring styles. Normal woollen yarns for tweeds are single yarns but thornproof tweed is made from two-fold twist yarns and the two yarns can be either contrasting or toning in colour. The standard weave is plain and the combination of this weave and series of twist colours in warp and weft gives the characteristic sprinkled colorur effect. |
| Thong Hole |
In zippers, opening at the end of a pull. |
| Thread |
1. The result of twisting together in one or more operations two or more single, folded, or cabled
yarns
2. A product as defined in (1 above) intended particularly for sewing purposes. (known also as
sewing thread.)
3. A component of silk yarn. It is the product of winding together without twist a number of baves. A three-thread silk yarn is the result of folding three such products together
4. A textile yam in general. |
| Thread Break |
In sewn seams, rupture of the sewing thread. |
| Thread Fabric |
Strong, heavyweight, plain weave cotton fabric made with ply warp and single filling; picks are
spaced far apart from each other. Once used as a foundation for rubber in tyres, but later supplanted by other cord fabrics. |
Thread Holder
|
Device on which thread is wound so that it can be transported to, and run off smoothly at, the sewing operation. It may be in the form of a cone, spool, tube, or bobbin. |
| Thread Marking |
1. Temporary stitches to mark the fitting lines of a bespoke garment.
2. Marking key positions such as pockets and darts of garments, by means of threads inserted
through all the plies of a lay with a thread-marking machine. |
Thread Waste
|
Waste left on bobbins or collected during spinning and weaving. |
| Thready Cloth |
Fabric finished to show all the thread on the face. |
| Three-cord Thread |
The plying of three single cotton yarns into one yarn. Twist inserted is always in the same direction
as the spinning frame twist–S-S or Z-Z. |
| Three-dimensional Polymers |
Polymer formed when molecules unite in both length and width, producing a relatively rigid
structure. This is typical of polymers used in finishing textiles. |
| Three-end Twill |
See Three-leaf twill. |
Three-leaf Twill
|
Simplest form of twill. Repeat on three ends and three picks. Largely used for linings. It is two up,
one down or one up, two down. |
| Three-harness Twill |
See Three-leaf twill. |
| Three-leaf Warp Twill |
Carded fabric, bleached or dyed, made with a three-harness warp-faced twill. It is lighter in weight
than jeans or drills and is used in work shirts, pocketings and some linings. |
| Three-pick Terry Cloth |
Two weft picks go under the pile loops and one pick goes between two rows of pile. |
| Three-pile Velvet |
Richly ornamented silk velvets with three different heights of pile. |
| Three-ply |
Any yarn composed of three individual yarns plied or twisted together. |
| Three-ply Carpet |
A type of ingrain carpeting, which employs three warps and three fillings in the construction. |
| Three-quarter Goods |
In woollen industry those fabrics which measure 27in. or 0.7m. in width. |
| Throat Plate |
In sewing machine, platform in stitching zone for supporting the work material being sewn with
openings for the needle and feed surfaces. Slots are cut in the plate through which the dogs protrude, holes are located for needle passage to the bobbin or loopers below the plate, and extensions of the plate are used for chaining fingers on the overlock and multithread chain stitch machines. |
| Throats |
In zippers, two openings in a slider that receive the stringers. |
| Thron Proof Tweed |
Characteristic type of tweed with salt and pepper colouring styles. Normal woollen yarns for tweeds are single yarns but thornproof tweed is made from two-fold twist yarns and the two yarns can be either contrasting or toning in colour. The standard weave is plain and the combination of this weave and series of twist colours in warp and weft gives the characteristic sprinkled colour effect. Sometimes different colour series are used in both warp and weft so that intricate mixture effects are possible. The yarns are more firmly twisted than the average tweed and this gives a firm but porous fabric with a clean surface. If a thick pencil point is pressed through the fabric the resulting hole can be closed up again with the fingers; this property is probably the reason for the name thronproof. Used for suits and coats and has excellent tailoring and wearing properties if its harshness can be tolerated or removed by lining or bonding. |
| Through-and-Through |
Reversible wool fabric with identical face and back. |
| Through-air Bonding |
A fibre bonding process, in which a web containing fibres with a low melting point is bonded in a
carefully controlled hot air stream. |
| Through-printed |
Sheer fabrics can be printed so that the colours on the back of the cloth are about as well defined as those on the face, e.g. Discharge style printing. |
| Throw |
1. Removable, unfitted protective textile cover, used over upholstered furniture
2. A woman's scarf or light wrap. |
| Throwing |
Term, used in the silk and man-made fibre industries to describe the twisting or folding of
continuous filament yarns from required number of filaments with required amount of twist for the
fabric to be woven or knitted. |
| Thrown Silk |
Raw silk that has been twisted, or doubled and twisted. |
| Thrown Singles |
Raw silk, which are for throwing after reeling, i.e. grouped and generally twisted into tram,
organzine, no-throw yarn or twistless yarn, crêpe or sewing silk thread. |
| Throwster |
Operator who does the job of throwing. |
| Thrum |
1. Term for fringe or short lengths of materials, which suggest fringe. Specifically, the end of
warp, which is not woven but remains on the loom when the woven fabric has been cut free.
2. General term for soft, short threads, tufts, or fringe. In broader terms, any mass of hairs on an
animal, or fibres or thread-like leaves of a plant which is similar to thrum. |
| Thrum Waste |
Threads of woven-out warps cut from warp beams. This waste is often tightly twisted and must be
reworked before it can be used again. |
| Tick Effects |
Term used sometimes for bird’s eye patterns, especially on worsted suiting. |
| Ticket Number |
Designation of approximate linear density of a sewing thread by assigning it a ‘tex number’. |
| Ticking |
General term for very strong, closely woven twill fabric. Stiff and can be recognized mainly by the
narrow woven in stripes of any colour along with white; can be plain also. Usually made of cotton,
but sometimes linen is added. Though not very attractive fabric, used occasionally as a fashion fabric for women’s jackets and trousers. Its main use is as hardwearing covers for mattresses, and pillows. |
| Tick Weave |
Fabric with a small all over pattern or texture, often using tow contrasting colours. |
| Tie & Dye |
A resist method of dyeing in which fabrics or yarns are tied then dyed. A method of dyeing clothing
popularised by members of the hippie subculture. Clothes are tied, either with string or rubber bands into some sort of pattern. Then the clothes are dyed, either by submerging them or by squirting dye solution onto them. Where the fabric is tied, some areas do not absorb dye, forming a pattern. This is known as a resist technique; the areas that are tied resist dyeing. |
| Tie-cloth |
Soft and crisp fabric suitable for men’s ties or cravats. Fabrics include tie silk, faille, pongee, in twill
weave, acetate, polyester or silk fibres. |
| Tiering |
In printing, the job of spreading the print-paste evenly over the woollen sieve. |
| Tie Silk |
A silk fabric of firm resilient pliable texture for neck ties and for blouses and accessories. Normally made in narrow widths, in wide range of constructions, textures, colours, designs and qualities. |
| Tie-stitch |
Short stitch, leaving ends of thread several inches long, which are then tied in a knot. Used mainly in millinery and occasionally in dressmaking. |
| Tigering |
Removing surplus strands of fibre from surface of high-pile woven or knitted fabrics. |
| Tight End |
Fabric defect in woven fabrics. Yarn, which has been woven under excessive tension or has shrunk
more than normal amount. |
| Tight Filling |
See Tight pick. |
| Tightness Factor |
1. In knitting, measure of the relationship between the loop length of a knitted fabric and the size/
count of the yarn employed to construct it. A range of fabric of differing loop size are considered
to have related properties if the yarn size increases to maintain the same cover factor. The usual
formula is:
2. In weaving, it is ‘cover factor’. |
| Tight Pick |
Fabric defect in woven fabrics. One or more picks woven under abnormally high tension producing
a fabric condition appearing as wavy ruffled or puckered surface at the junction with normal picks. |
| Tight Selvedge |
Fabric defect in woven fabric. Selvedge yarns shorter than warp yarn in the body of the fabric. May
have caused by the loom temples not holding the edge threads and the fabric to the proper width at the fell of the cloth as it is being woven; filling tensions being too high, too many ends in the reed splits or dents which cause cramming of the yarn, a weave construction that is too compact or tight and the yarn which is not suitable for the type of fabric desired. Tight selvedges are very difficult to remedy. |
Tight Spot
|
Short portion of real twist in a false-twist yarn, which does not permit, crimp development and
therefore results in a pinhole-look in the cloth. |
| Tight-twist End |
Fabric defect. A single end with higher than normal twist. |
| Tight Warp Ends |
Fabric defect. One or more tight ends caused from abnormal tension in the fabric and usually run for considerable length unless observed by the weaver. Sometimes it is very difficult to detect during weaving of fabric. |
| Time-to-Break |
Time interval during which a specimen is under prescribed conditions of tension and is absorbing the energy required to reach the maximum load. |
| Tinctorial Strength |
Effectiveness of a given mass of dye in colouring a given mass of material. |
| Tinsel Yarn |
Textile yarn or thread, combined, coated, or covered with a shiny substance, often metallic,
(e.g. aluminium and occasionally gold or silver), to produce a glittering or sparkling effect. |
| Tint |
1. A paler colour made by the addition of white or by adding dilutant to a dye.
2. Colorant, applied to a substrate for purposes of identification, which is easily removed from the
substrate by subsequent wet treatment. |
| Tinting |
Application of whitening agents for enhancing whiteness of textile goods. |
| Tinted Denim |
Also called Dirty denim that is woven with indigo and khaki/yellow fibres instead of indigo and
white; creates a ‘dirty’ look to the denim that shows through more and more with wash and wear;
sandblasting (wearing out or scrubbing out indigo dye) can make tinting appear more prominent |
| Tin Weighting |
Building up weight of silk by use of tin salts, especially used for white or light shades. |
| Tipped |
Descriptive term for pile fabrics, usually plushes, with long pile, where –the final dyeing process is
applied only to the tips or cut ends, of the pile. |
| Tippet |
A shoulder cape of fur or cloth often with hanging ends; a long black scarf worn over the robe by
Anglican clergymen during morning and evening prayer |
| Tippy Wool |
Wool in which the tip portions of the fibres have been so damaged by weathering during growth as to have markedly different dyeing properties. |
| Tip Printing |
Combination of embossing and printing. The embossed section of the fabric is printed. |
| Tip-sheared Pile |
Carpet pile, originally consisting of loops of different lengths, which has been subjected after
manufacture to a shearing process to cut the tips of the longer pile loops. |
| Tisser |
A French term, which means ‘to weave’. Tisser is a weaver of cloth. ‘Tissu’ is the French word for
fabric. |
| Tissu |
French for all textile materials. |
| Tissue |
1. The lightweight versions of fabrics such as batiste, chambray, crepe, dimity, faille, gingham,
organdy, taffeta, voile, etc., are known by this term.
2. Curtains with clipspot motifs are also called tissue.
3. Damask, brocade, brocatelle, and some other Jacquard cloths in which metallic threads are
interspersed for enhancement of the goods use this term. |
| Tissue Taffeta |
Finest, lightest taffeta, almost transparent and normally only used for underwear or for lining fine
garments. |
| Tissue Faille |
A lightweight, plain weave, filament yarn fabric characterized by a narrow crosswise rib. Used for
blouses and dresses. |
| Tissue Linen |
A sheer fabric used in lightweight clothing such as blouses. |
| Titer |
1. Weight per unit length of yarn.
2. Number of filaments in reeled silk thread.. |
| Titre Number |
A generic term for units of linear density. The corresponding term for units of specific length
is ‘count number’.
Thus, ‘Titre number’ is a weight number (number of weight units of a determined length of yarn)
and count number is a length number (number of length units of a determined weight of yarn).
In ‘Titre systems’, the higher the titre, the thicker the yarn.
In ‘Count systems’, the higher the count, the finer the yarn. |
| Tjanting |
Tool employed exclusively in Java for drawing with wax. It consists of a copper or brass receptacle
having one or more spouts. |
| Tjap |
A round metal plate used to create a design in batik dyeing. |
| Tjap Block |
Wax-printing block, made entirely of metal strips and are open at the back. It was introduced in Java to facilitate speedier production. |
| TM |
See Twist multiplier. |
| Twist Multiplier |
The quotient of the twist expressed in turns per inch and the square root of the yarn number in an
indirect system. |
| Toby Printing |
Method used in block printing when the different colour areas of a design are clearly separated from each other; the colours are applied by means a divided sieve and are thus printed at the same time from one block. |
| Toe Block |
Reinforced toe section of a stocking. |
| Toe Closing |
Closing of toe opening in knitted hosiery. It may be closed during knitting or may be closed by
sewing. |
| Tone-on-Tone |
1. A fabric with a pattern consisting of 2 or more shades of the same colour.
2. Piece dyed dobbies in which the dobby effect takes on a different tone by virtue of the weave,
light reflection or types of yarn used. |
| Tongue |
Small sliding shank, inside the shaft of the compound needle, which opens and closes the hook. |
| Tongue Tear Test |
The average force required to continue tearing a pre-cut sample of fabric. |
| To Take Dress |
The term ‘to take dress ’ from men’s trousers is to cut a section from one side to make it fit as
closely as the other. |
| Toile |
1. General term used in French to designate vegetable fibre cloths made on plain or twill weaves,
especially hemp and linen materials.
2. Name given to tissue goods in which metallic threads are used to enhance the pattern-cloths of
gold, silver, copper, etc.
3. A type of hand-made lace in which the body part of the pattern simulates woven cloth.
4. The warp ends which from the ground in pile fabrics.
5. Fine cretonne with scenic designs printed in one colour.
6. Some sheer cotton and linen materials are called toile. |
| Top |
Indefinitely long assembly of staple fibres, substantially parallel and without twist, and capable
of being drafted. The package of slivers that is the starting material for worsted and some other
drawing systems.
1. In worsted, sliver in which the fibres have been parallelised, and usually combed.
2. In man-made fibres or tow to top process, sliver obtained by drafting, along with breaking or
cutting a multifilament tow.
3. In wool, continuous untwisted strand of wool fibres from which the shorter fibres or noils have
been removed by combing. |
| Tom-tom |
A machine in which lace, hosiery, or knitwear are subjected to the action of free-falling beaters,
while immersed in a detergent solution in a moving rectangular or cylindrical box |
| Tommy Dood |
Machine used for back-filling. |
| Tone-to-Tone Print |
Fabric printed in two tones of the same colour. |
| Top and Bottom Feed |
In sewing machine, feed mechanism comprising of a feeding foot working in unison with a drop
feed. |
| Top and Bottom Thread Trimmer |
In sewing machine, device fitted to it, which cuts the needle threads and under-threads after sewing. |
| Top-dyed |
A fiber dyeing method in which dye in applied to combed fibers in an untwisted or loosely twisted
rope form (called top or sliver ). Sometimes dye is applied or printed on the fiber at regular intervals to give a melange effect . Top dyeing results in good colourfastness. |
| Topham Box |
A device for twisting and winding a wet-spun continuous-filament yarn so as to produce a cake. |
| Topping |
Application of further colorant not necessarily of the same hue or class to a dyed substrate in order to adjust the latter to the desired final colour. |
| Top Side |
In trousers, front section extending from the trouser-bottom to the waistband and between the inside and side seams. |
| Top Stop |
In zippers, part affixed between or immediately above interlocking elements, on either or both
stringers, to prevent the slider from leaving the chain. |
| Top Stitching |
Line or lines of stitching that shows on the face side in the finished article, stitched at a uniform
distance from a seam to reinforce it or for decoration, usually stitched while having the face side of
the fabric up. |
| Torayca |
Registered trademark of Toray Industries for high strength, high modulus carbon fibres. Company in a joint development project with Union Carbide Corp. on these fibres. |
| Torchon Lace |
Coarse lace made from cotton or linen thread, often with a shell design. Is inexpensive and not
hardwearing, due to the fact that the threads are loosely twisted and it is quickly made. Used for mats and decorations on clothes. |
| Torchon Lace |
An inexpensive, sturdy, machine made lace using thick threads in simple designs on a mesh ground .Often with scalloped edges. Also called beggar’s lace. |
| Torso |
See Torso form. |
| Torso Form |
A full round, headless and armless body form that ends just above the knees and is used for showing bathing suits, lingerie and sportswear. The average height is 38 in., for the female and 43 in. for the male figure. It differs from the usual dress form in that the bodyline is more animated and the legs are parted and defined. |
| Tow Machine |
Tow produced by a hackling machine. |
| Tow Straw |
Flax straw in tossed and broken condition, resulting from threshing a flax crop too poor for normal
processing. |
| Torn Selvedge |
Fabric defect, considered major. Term is self-explanatory. Fabrics which are not presentable because of selvedge ends missing, uneven tying-in of broken ends, knots and slubs, often caused by generally poor work on the part of the weaver. |
| Torn Size |
Dimensions of sheet or pillowcase before hemming. |
| Torque Yarn |
1. Textured filament synthetic yarn made by imparting twist (torque) in the ‘S’ or ‘Z’ direction.
2. Stretch yarn that, when permitted to hang freely, rotates in the direction of the unrelieved torque resulting from previous deformation. |
| Torsion |
Twisting of one end of a body with respect to |
| Total Clo |
The intrinsic clo plus the thermal resistance from the air boundary. |
| Total Crotch Length |
Term related to garment sizing. In body measurements, distance from the waist level at centre front through the crotch to the waist level at centre back. |
| Total Elongation |
In rope, total elongation when placed under a given strain. |
| Total Vertical Trunk Length |
Term related to garment sizing. In body measurements, distance from the right shoulder line midway between the neck base and the shoulder joint, down the back through the crotch and over the projection of the right breast to the starting point. |
| Touch and Close Fastener |
Fastener comprising two tapes, both being pile fabric. The hook tape has a pile made from
polyamide or polyester monofilament with hook-shaped ends and the loop component has a pile or
multi-filament yarn. On presenting one to the other, the hooks engage in the loops, forming a secure closure that can be separated by a peeling action from either end.
|
| Toughness |
That property of a material by virtue of which it can absorb work. |
| Tow Conversion |
The production, from a filament tow or tows, of a staple sliver in such a way that the essential
parallel arrangement of the filaments is maintained. Note: the two methods of converting most
commonly employed are:,
(a) crush cutting, in which the filaments of the tow are severed by
crushing between an anvil roller and a cutting roller with raised ‘blades’ helically disposed around
its surface, and
(b) stretch breaking, in which the filaments of the tow are broken by progressive
stretch between successive sets of rollers., if subsequently a top is required, further processes of rebreaking and/or gilling may be necessary and the whole operation is then often referred to as tow-to-top converting or conversion. |
| Tow Breaking Machines |
Machine employed to break tow by stretching it, until it gives way at weaker places. Different
tensioning and spreading devices ensure that a regular sheet is fed into the machine. In the pre-
stretching zone the material is brought close to its breaking point and then fed to the breaking zone.Here the stretching is continued until breaking occurs, and the tow is transformed into short pieces ofstaple.
The material is then usually passed through a crimping-box to give the sliver more cohesion and
to aerate it. Often the slivers are steamed to bring about shrinkage, and this can produce high-bulk material.
For the Turbo stapler, a machine of this type, the sequence of operations, may therefore be listed as
Tensioning Ò
Spreading Ò
Stretching, Ò
Breaking Ò
Crimping Ò
Collecting.
The sliver will then be processed to produce the spun yarn.
The Two processes of cutting and breaking are quite different and therefore the products will vary.
For example, the breaking resistance of the material will be increased by the stretch-breaking
method, because the material will already have given way at its weakest point. After being cut by the converter the ends are crushed and this makes it more difficult for the fibres to slide over one another during spinning. There are also other variations such as the range of the fibre lengths obtained and the manufacturer, therefore, consider carefully the type of yarn he wishes to make, bearing in mithe materials to be processed, while deciding which method to use.
However, one thing is certain; man-made staple fibres will be processed more and more on these
machines, replacing the traditional operations of carding and combing. |
| Tow Cutting Machines |
See Tow breaking machines. |
| Towel |
Absorbent textile product used for drying or wiping. There are many types. |
| Towelling |
Any of several types of fabric intended for use as towels, specifically, fabric woven in long pieces
and then cut to the desired sizes, as distinguished from cloth woven in towel lengths with borders or other decorations. Cotton or linen is generally used and the fabric is often relatively coarse in texture with low-twist yarns that are absorbent. |
| Tobacco Cloth |
A low-textured, lightweight, thin cotton cloth that comes usually in a 36-inch width. Resembles
cheesecloth and the name comes from the fact that it has great use as a shade covering and protection for tobacco plants. |
| Tower |
High female headdress fashionable in the late 17th and early 18th century. |
| Tow-to-Top |
A process in which heavy continuous-filament yam, having no twist and a substantially parallel
alignment of the filaments, is cut or broken into staple and drafted into a sliver as a continuous
process. It is characteristic of the process that the tow does not lose its form, although the filaments are broken down into short lengths, but is only attenuated in the drafting process. |
| Tow-to-Top Conversion |
Process by which the tow is cut or broken to form staple and then drafted into a sliver as a
continuous process.
Man-made staple fibre is produced for spinning on the standard textile spinning machinery. For
this purpose the tows of continuous threads from the spinnerets are cut into staple of the required
length. In the tow, the fibres are in the form of regular filaments without any entanglement, but whenconverted into staple fibres these are packed into bales and they become entangled. The spinner thenhas to card and comb the mass of fibres in order to straighten them out again before a yarn can be produced.
It would obviously be desirable to convert the rope of continuous filaments directly into a sliver
of stapled fibres. Machines are available to do this and the tow is processed directly into the so-
called ‘combed’ tops. The process is, naturally, referred to as tow-to-top conversion.
The tow-to-top machines can be considered in two groups; those that produce the staple by cutting and those, which obtain the staple by stretch breaking. It is important to be able to control the length of the staple produced and essential that the ends of the fibres in the sliver are staggered. In this way the sliver is held together and drafting can subsequently be carried out satisfactorily. If all the ends of the fibres were at the same point along the length of sliver, obviously it would not hold together and it would be almost impossible to handle the material. |
| TPM |
See Turns per metre. |
| Turns Per Metre |
Number of turns in one metre of a yarn. |
| TPI |
See Turns per inch.. |
| Traceability |
Ability to trace history, application or location of an item or activity, or similar items or activities, by
means of recorded identification. |
| Track Suit Fabric |
Synthetic knit with slightly sueded backing made from polyester or polyester and cotton. Medium
thickness, and in plain bright colours, black and white. For tracksuits, anoraks, trousers, shorts and
for children’s clothes. |
| Track Suit Jersey |
Slightly open knit fabric, soft and has fleecy back. Plain, often dull, colours usually with marled
effect. Generally acrylic or polyester with viscose. Fabric is soft and comfortable. Loses shape and
is not very hardwearing compared with the original, firmer track suit fabrics. Used for sports and
leisurewear, including jumpsuits and children’s clothes. |
| Trade Name |
Name given by a manufacturer or merchant to a product to distinguish it as one produced or sold
by that manufacturer. It is called, more accurately; a trade mark name and may be protected as a
trademark. |
| Trade Mark |
Word, letter, device, or symbol used in connection with merchandise and alluding distinctly to the
origin or ownership of the product to which it is applied. |
| Traditional Selvedge |
Selvedge formed without making special provision on a shuttle loom weaving plain cloth. |
| Traffic Surface |
Durability, abrasion and performance of textile floor coverings. The public walks on the surface of
rug or carpet so that these features can be discerned. |
| Tram |
The opposite of organize, used as warp yarn in the silk trade. It is obtained by doubling two, three
or more raw silk threads which are not given the second-time spinning or throwing as is the case in manipulating organizing yarn. Tram has a twist of one or three turns per inch and is used as filling in silk weaving.
|
| Tramistatic |
Term to describe a loom with a stationary weft supply. |
| Trammage |
Fabric defect in crêpes. Puckered area in which a weft yarn has twist running in the same direction
for several picks instead of alternating ‘S’ twist and ‘Z’ twist. |
| Tranquale |
Registered trademark of Dan River Inc. for its permanent press, no-iron percale sheets and
pillowcases. |
| Transfer |
In textile processing, movement of chemical, dye or pigment between fibres within a substrate or
between substrates. |
| Transfer Printing |
Any process by which a design is transferred from paper to another substrate. Several techniques
have been used, viz melt-transfer, film-release, and wet-transfer, but vapour transfer (sublimation
transfer) is the most important. Selected disperse dyes transfer in vapour form to thermoplastic fibres. when the printed paper and fabric are brought into close contact in a transfer press at 170°-220°c. |
| Transfer Stitch |
Transfer of loops during knitting cycle to form a hole or lace design or to create structural change
from rib to single knit and vice versa, or to shape a sweater. |
| Transmission Rope |
Rope made of six strands of seven wires with a hemp centre, used for transmitting power, as in
driving line shafts. |
| Transparent Velvet |
Lighter in weight than chiffon velvet, soft and silky with good draping qualities. Made with a silk
viscose or acetate backing and viscose or nylon pile. |
| Transportation Fabric |
The fabric covering for seats in buses, railway cars, airplanes, and other vehicles. Specifications
for this fabric include excellent resistance to abrasion, soiling, strain and light, and in some cases
flammability. |
| Trapped Twist Yarn |
Filament yarn textured by twisting two yarns around the same axis, then heat setting and untwisting to form two distinct textured yarns. |
| Trapunto |
A form of quilting in which a design is stitched through two layers of fabric. The lower layer is than
slit and batting or fiberfill is inserted to raise the design to a high relief. |
| Trash |
1. Non-fibrous matter present in bales of raw cotton other than abnormal items, such as stone,
timber, and pieces of old iron, etc. Main component of trash is chaff, dirt in the form of soil or sand
and sometimes, foreign (unwanted) fibres such as lengths of sisal, jute, hemp, and grass.
2. Defect, in textile materials. Undeveloped seed, motes, small bits of seed coat, or particles of leaf
appearing as specks in cotton yarn and fabric. The defect is also called ‘mote trash’. |
| Trash, Cotton |
A loose term embracing, in its widest sense, the non-fibrous foreign matter present in bales of raw
cotton other than abnormal items, such as stone, timber, pieces of old iron, etc.
1. Normal whole
seeds, either ginned or un-ginned, are frequently excluded from this category but broken portions
of them and also whole or broken undeveloped seeds are usually regarded as trash.
2. The main
component of trash is chaff and dirt in the form of soil or sand. |
| Trash Content |
Ratio of mass of trash in a sample of raw cotton fibres to total mass of the sample. The ratio is
usually expressed as a percentage. |
| Travancore Flax |
See Sunn. |
| Traveller |
Metal or plastic component through which yarn passes on its way to from the ballooning eye to the
package surface in ring spinning or twisting. It is mounted on a ring and is dragged round by the
yarn. |
| Traverse |
1. Distance moved by yarn along the package during winding. The movement of an end
or ends parallel to the axis of rotation, which spaces the turns across the yarn package.
2. Adjective to describe a type of mechanism used in winding. |
| Traverse Length |
Distance, parallel to axis of a yarn package, between points of reversal of the direction of traverse. |
| Treadle Loom |
Weaving machine activated by a treadle connected to the main shaft. |
| Treated Fabric |
Fabric to which a finish has been applied in order to change the original level of a specific property
or properties, e.g. water repellence, crease resistance, soil resistance. |
| Treble Cloth |
A layerd fabric made with three warps and three fillings, together with a binder thread. A stitching
holds the layers in place. Used for industrial fabrics and overcoatings. |
| Triple Sheers |
Heavier and flatter than sheers. Almost opaque. Many are made from ‘Bemberg’, which wears,
drapes, and washes well. Sheers are used extensively for after 5 wear, as well as afternoon dresses in heavier weights, and some coats, lingerie, curtains, trims, etc. |
| revira |
A branded type of Polyester; it offers better Pilling performance than regular polyester. |
| Triacetate Fibre |
A manufactured fibre made by modifying cellulose. The base for this fibre is cellulose acetate. When
not less than 92 % of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated, the term ‘triacetate’ is used to serve as ageneric description of the fibre. Unlike acetate, in this fibre, even more acetate groups are added.
Compared to acetate, triacetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures. It has a
crisper handle and resembles more truly the easy-care synthetics. It can be washed by hand or and even tumble dried, with relatively good wrinkle recovery. It dries rapidly and loose less strength when wet. A heat treatment is usually employed on garments for durable pleating and creasing, poor abrasion resistance, low absorbency, luxurious appearance, retains pleats very well, biological resistant, resistant to moths and mildew, usually can be washed or dry cleaned, excellent drape, good dyeability, easy to dye, low melts at 302°C, excellent resistance to pilling, shrinkage, retains shape well strength poor to fair, loses strength when wet and good wrinkle resistance. Used for dresses, skirts, sportswear, robes, etc.
|
| Tri-axial Loom |
Loom, which lays in yarn in three directions instead of the usual two. |
| Tri-axial Weaving |
Weaving operation that goes one step beyond the conventional weaving, by introducing a third end into the operation. Two sets of warp ends and one weft are interlocked at 60º angle.
The resulting fabric has excellent tensile and bursting strength, resistance to tearing, abrasion. |
| Tricel |
Trade name of a triacetate fibre, which is used on its own and mixed with other fibres to make a wide range of fabrics of varying types and weights, both woven and knitted. The fibre resists dirt, is fairly crease-resistant and is harder wearing than acetate although similar in appearance. |
| Tricel Suede |
Soft, supple knit fabric with pile surface and sometimes also may be punched. Used for a variety of
fabrics sports and leisure clothes. |
| Tricel Velour |
Tricel yarn knitted in combination with nylon or polyester results in a rich pile fabric that is soft and
comfortable to wear. Fabrics dye well and therefore carry rich strong colors well and also black. Pale colors tend to look patchy but are very attractive. Used for jumpsuits, skirts, casual clothes, leisure wear and in heavier weight for drapes and furnishings.
|
| Tricelon |
Trade name for a blended yarn of tricel and nylon. The combination of these two yarns produces a
soft fabric with superb draping qualities. Fabrics made from Tricelon are generally lightweight and
used for dresses, blouses and lingerie. Fabrics may be woven or knitted. Tricelon makes an ideal
fabric for permanent pleating. |
| Tri-component Fibre |
Fibre consisting of three polymers, which are chemically different, physically different, or any
combination of such differences. |
| Tricorne |
A French cocked hat from late 18th century; it has turned up brim and having three corners. |
| Tricot |
1. A type of warp knitted fabric, which has a thin texture since it is made from very fine yarn. The
French verb tricoter, means ‘to knit’. The fabric is made on one, two, or three bar frames. It is
knitted flat and made on spring-beard needles and has from one to four warps or thread systems,
which are mounted in a stationary position. Industry Standard Machine is 28 needles to the inch or a 28 gauge (gg).
2. Stocking-net, as applied to a warp-knitted fabric irrespective of the motif; often refers to a flat
knitted cloth since it is not tubular. The meaning, however, is not to be constructed to imply a flat-
machine knit fabric.
3. A French serge lining fabric made on a 20 inch width.
4. A fine woven worsted made on the tricot weave which presents fine break lines in the filling
direction. This chain break effect fabric is dyed all popular shades, has a high, compact texture, and
is a good material to use in tailoring. Gives excellent wear in the better type of tailored garments for women. |
| Tricot Knit |
A warp knit fabric in which the fabric is formed by interlooping adjacent parallel yarns. The warp
beam holds thousands of yards of yarns in a parallel arrangement, and these yarns are fed into the knitting area simultaneously. Sufficient yarns to produce the final fabric width and length are on the beam. Tricot knits are frequently used in women’s lingerie items such as slips, bras, panties, and nightgowns. |
| Tricot Stitch |
Very simple crocheted needlework in plain, straight pattern. |
| Tricot, Warp-knitted |
A warp-knitted fabric, knitted with two full sets of warp thread, each set making a 1 and 1 lapping
movement but in opposite directions. Additionally the term is now used generically to cover all types of warp-knitted fabric made on tricot warp-knitting machines. |
| Trilam |
Plain weave laminated fabric, made from polyester scrim coated with polyester film, for use as sails. |
| Tri-stimulus Values |
Amounts of three defined primaries (usually blue, red, and green) required to be mixed additively to match the colour of the object, under defined conditions. |
| Trivinyl Fibre |
A generic term used to describe fibres made from a synthetic terpolymer of cyanoethene
(acrylonitrile), a chlorinated vinyl monomer and a third vinyl monomer, none of which represents as
much as 50% of the total mass. |
| Tropical Cloths |
Lightweight fabrics used for warm weather wear. They have a clear finish, and high-twist yarns are
used to make up for the lack of weight and to provide good service to the consumer. Fibres used
include cotton, worsted, acetate, rayon, cotton and mohair, cotton and worsted; and blended fabrics of worsted with nylon or polyester fibres are very popular in the trade. |
| Tropical Suiting |
Lightweight, plain weave suiting for men’s and women’s summer wear. It has various weaves and is made of a variety of fibres. |
| Tropical Worsted |
Plain or fancy weave 100% worsted fabric, very light in weight and mainly in light colours, beige
and white. An excellent cloth for hot weather as the high-twist worsted yarn makes it cool. It pleats and creases well. Used for men’s suits, women’s suits, trousers, etc. |
| Tropical Weight |
Worsted suiting, a yard of which, weighs from 198 to 312gm. Lightweight fabric suitable for warm
climates. |
| Tropunto |
Quilting in which design is outlined with single stitches and padding is drawn from the back, filling
each part of the design separately, giving a high relief effect. |
| Troughed Shed |
In weaving, a warp shed in which two sheets that form the shed are under different tensions in order to improve cover. |
| Trousers |
The term usually used in plural to describe a Two-legged outerwear garment, covering the body
from the waist down to the ankles and is divided so as to make a separate covering for each leg.
Trousers may be made up with pleats in the topside and described as ‘pleated fronts’; otherwise they are known as ‘plain fronted trouser’. |
| Trouser Braid |
Flat, usually black, braided narrow fabric with closely interlaced threads at the sides and more open interlacing in the centre, having a core thread on each side of a more loosely constructed centre. It is usually made of continuous filament yarn and used on formal dress. |
| Trousering |
Also called ‘panting’. Large variety of fabrics used for trousers. Usually made in plain or twill
weave, of woollen, worsted, cotton, man-made fibres or mixtures of these, in plain or fancy patterns. |
| Trousses |
In the 17th century the upper hose which did not hang down, but fitted the thighs tightly. They are a survival of the 16th century grègues, preserved in the ceremonial costume of knights of the king’s order and in pages’ costumes. |
| True |
Uniform diameter of wool fibres. |
| True Draw Ratio |
In a drawing process, the ratio of the linear density of the undrawn yarn to that of the drawn yarn. |
| True Silk |
Silk produced by the larvae of the moth bombyx mori. |
| True Stitch |
Sewing with threaded embroidery needle so that the ornamentation is the same on both sides of the fabric. |
| Trunnions |
In zippers, two pivots at the end of the pull that fit into the bail. |
| Truth Mark |
Identification mark applied close to the ends of a piece of fabric by various means, such as weaving
in a contrasting colour of yarn, using a marker pen, punching a logo etc. The purpose of the mark
is to show that the piece has remained intact between processes or between mill and customer. |
| Try-on |
Individual fitting of a garment for the purpose of confirming the size, shape and fit, either before or
after the garment is completed. |
| T-shirt |
A simple style of short sleeve or sleeveless shirt, made from cut and sewn, usually cotton knitted
fabric; used as under or outer shirt of similar design. |
| Tube |
1. An article of clothing shaped like a tube, as tube top or tube socks
2. Holder or bobbin of cylindrical shape used as a core for a yarn package of cylindrical form.
3. Cylindrical yarn package formed by winding on a tube. |
| Tubing |
Braided, knitted, or woven fabric of cylindrical form having a width of 4 in. or more (circumference
of 8 in. or more).
|
| Tube Top |
A band-shaped covering for the breasts. |
| Tube Twist |
Smooth plied yarn that has been twisted through a compressor; the yarn generally is composed of 8 or more single yarns, as distinguished from ring twist.
|
| Tubular Fabric |
1. See Tubing.
2. Knitted tubular fabric made on a circular knitting machine and shipped without being slit to open
width form Various kinds are used for underwear and hosiery. |
| Tubular Welt |
Welt made on a rib basis, in which the number of courses with loops intermeshed in one direction is equal to the number of courses with loops intermeshed in the other direction. In making such a welt on a 1x1 rib, the first and last courses are knitted on both sets of needles and the intermediate courses consist of an equal number of plain courses on each set of needles. |
| Tub Silk |
Silk that is washable. |
| Tuck |
1. Lightweight fabric of cotton, silk or man-made fibre with pleats running from selvedge to
selvedge and formed with a separate warp and a weft usually heavier than that used for the ground weave. Used for shirts, bloused, etc.
2. In twisted or plaited rope, free strand placed between the rope strands during splicing. |
| Tuck Ripple |
Fabric, made on one set of needles, featuring raised effects that are developed by selective knitting and tucking, tuck loops being accumulated in alternate wales. |
| Tuck-in Selvedge |
Selvedge formed by tucking-in protruding portions of each pick into the next warp shed, alongside
the new pick, and beating them up together with it. |
| Tucked Seam |
Complex seam formed on the inside of the object with neither raw edge enclosed, having one visible line of topstitching on the face side and a visible free folded edge (tuck). A tucked seam is made by the same steps as the lapped seam, except the topstitching is farther from the fold 6 to 10 mm. |
| Tuck Loop |
In knitting, a length (or lengths) of yarn received by a needle and not pulled through the loop of the previous course. |
| Tuft |
In pile fabrics, the cut loops or uncut loops, in I, J, U, or W shape, which are attached to the backing fabric at one binding site and which form part of the fabric face. |
| Tuft Bind |
Force required to pull a tuft from a cut pile floor covering or to pull free one leg of a loop from a
looped pile floor covering. |
| Tufted Fabric |
A fabric decorated with fluffy tufts of soft twist, multiple-ply cotton yarns. Some are loom-woven but the majority have the tufts inserted and cut by machine in a previously woven fabric, such as
muslin sheeting, lightweight duck, etc. The tufts may be intermittently spaced giving the type called
candlewick, or arranged closely in continuous lines giving the type called chenille. The patterns vary
from simple line effects to elaborate designs. Used for bedspreads, robes, bathmats, stuffed toys, etc. |
| Tufted Embroidery |
Lace fabric composed mainly of cotton and possibly nylon to create a firm base, with gold, silver or
coloured tufts inserted into the right side of the fabric in a pattern. |
| Tufted Rug |
A rug of scatter or room size, in which yarn is drawn from the face through backing (hemp, jute,
etc.) and then through to the face again with long loops left on the face which may be cut or uncut.
A shrinkage treatment then contracts the backing so that the rug yarn is held in place. Sometimes a rubber compound is applied to the under side of the backing to help to hold the yarn and to keep the rug from sliding on the floor. |
| Tufted Yarn |
A British term to designate cotton yarn in which defects similar to slubs are observed. These slubs,
however, are more loosely tangled than average slubs in yarns, which are usually well gnarled and
tangled. |
| Tuft Element |
In pile yarn floor covering, a segment of yarn bound to a backing fabric at a binding site so that two portions (legs) of the yarn project above the backing fabric, one portion on each side of the binding site. |
| Tuft Height |
In pile yarn floor covering, the length of a tuft leg. |
| Tufting |
1. In upholstered furniture, localized indentation of upholstered furniture surfaces and cushions, by
the use of or appearance of buttons, providing an aesthetic treatment.
2. Tufted fabrics such as seen in some bedcovers, curtains, novelties, carpeting, etc.
3. The tassel on an academic cap. |
| Tufting Needle |
A long, heavy needle with a hooked-shape eye used to force tufting cords through a mattress. |
Tuft Leg
|
In pile yarn floor covering, one of the two portions of a tuft element that project above the backing
fabric on the pile side of the floor covering. |
| Tuft Length |
In pile yarn floor covering, the length of a tuft element measured while extended in a straight line
under zero tension. |
| Tumble Cold |
See under Tumble drying.
Sometimes a tumbler machine with no heating also is used. This method is called ‘tumble cold’. |
| Tumble Drying |
Method of drying washed fabrics or garments in hot air (up to 180ºF) with air circulating through the load for 30 to 40min., with the intention of removing residual water by treatment with hot air in a rotating drum. |
| Tumble Felting |
Method of felting hanks of wool yarn in either aqueous or other solvent media using rotary washing or drying machines. |
| Turbo Yarn |
Trade term given to yarn produced from a tow, generally acrylic and nylon fibre, which has been
produced on a tow converter known as ‘turbo machine’. |
| Turin |
Fabric made with two differently coloured sets of two-ply cotton warp, and chenille and rayon yarn
in the weft.
|
| Turbenizing |
Process of applying a solvent at high temperature on a special type of cotton fabric into which
acetate yarns have been woven in. Turbenizing is usually carried out on collars and cuffs of
garments. |
| Turkey Red |
Brilliant, fast red colour produced on cotton fibre by alizarin, a synthetic dyestuff, with an
aluminium mordant and oil or other fatty matter. Turkey red has largely been replaced by colours,
which are cheaper and easier to apply. |
| Turkey Red Oil |
Turkey red oil (TRO) is also known as sulphonated castor oil. It is the only oil that will completely
disperse in water and is considered the first synthetic detergent. It has a distinct and heavy scent.
It is a surfactant and therefore makes a wonderful base for a bath oil as it mixes well with water,
producing a milk bath. Used in textile industries, sugar industry, as a de-foaming agent, as an
emulsifier. |
| Turkish Embroidery |
Needlework done on linen or any fine fabric characterized by conventional designs worked
over traced patterns or by counted stitches; coloured silk or metallic threads are used in forming
numerous native stitches, or in satin-stitch, darning-stitch or chain-stitch. Used for apparel and home furnishings. |
| Turkish Towelling |
See Terry towelling. |
| Turkoman |
Drapery fabric made with silk or cotton warp and thick chenille weft. |
| Turmeric |
Natural dyestuff used since ancient times for dyeing wool and silk. A yellow powder, it is obtained
from the roots of the shrub curcuma longa. It yields a fugitive direct dye. |
| Turn |
In textile strands, one 360° revolution of the components around the axis of the strand. |
| Tunnel Test |
Method for testing flammability of soft floor coverings. Specimen is placed on the ceiling of the tunnel of specific dimensions and is ignited under controlled conditions to ascertain the extent to
which it will burn. |
| Turbo Process |
Method used for conversion of man-made continuous tow into top or sliver for subsequent spinning
them into yarns. While most man-made fibre types can be used, acrylic and nylon have been the
principal fibres used. |
| Turn-back Checks |
Cotton fabric with small, woven coloured checks and solid coloured borders. Made with single
yarns, with about 90 ends and 40 picks per square inch; yarn sizes being in the neighbourhood of
20s. |
| Turns-per Inch |
Turns-per inch (TPI) is number of turns in one inch of a yarn. |
| Turned Welt |
Welt that consists of a double fold of plain fabric and is made usually on a straight-bar knitting
machine. All or alternate sinker loops of the first course are retained while the weft fabric is knitted
and later intermeshed with the needle loops of a subsequent course. |
| Turn-ups |
In trousers, the bottoms of trouser legs folded and turned back on the outside, with the raw edges hemmed on the inside. |
| Turtle Neck Collar |
Variation of the round neck collar that extends a moderate way up the neck and is not normally
doubled over. |
| Tuscan Straw |
A fine, yellow straw woven from the tops of bleached wheat stalks grown in Tuscany. Often woven
in lace-like designs. |
| Tussah Schappe |
Yarn spun from tussah waste. |
| Tussore |
A fabric woven from the coarse wild silk called tussah. Note: the spelling ‘tussore’, although
considered erroneous by etymologists, is in common usage in the textile industry for the name given to fabrics. |
| Twaddell |
A scale used for the measurement of the specific gravity of liquids by hydrometry. |
| Tweed British |
A rough fabric of wiry heavy wools. |
| Tweed Jersey |
Traditional term tweed, which implies hairy, has now been applied to a modern thick knit fabric with
fancy knobbles and hairy surface. Extremely stretchy and suitable for patterns labelled ‘knit fabrics’. Usually made of acrylic with some wool and nylon. Used for soft suits and dresses. |
| Twelve-harness Satin |
Weave similar to eight-harness satin, except in warp-faced fabrics warp yarns show on the face of
the fabric eleven out of twelve adjacent yarns, and in weft-faced fabrics weft yarns show on the face eleven out of twelve adjacent yarns. |
| Twenty-four Carat Gold Fabric |
Sheer fabric that has a surface covering of 24carat design or finish made with a lacquer or liquid
composed of 24carat gold and other chemicals required to make it adhere to the woven cloth. |
| Twill |
The term twill designates both a textile weave characterised by diagonal structural designs and the cloth made from that weave. The weave may be varied to produce broken or intertwining effects. Twill fabrics are usually firm and are used especially in suits and in sport and work clothes. Twill-weave fabrics are also used for linings, pockets, and mattress ticking. Serge, gabardine, and cheviot are major types of twill. |
| Twill Angle |
Term for describing the slant of the twill, generally by the degree of inclination. The normal twill
angle is 45º. Other versions are ‘steep twills’ and ‘reclining twills’. |
| Twill Braid |
In rope, braided construction in which one strand of one direction of rotation about the axis passes
over two strands of the opposite direction and it in turn passes under the next two strands of opposite direction. |
| Twill Checkerboards |
Fabric having a herringbone effect, the right-hand and left-hand twills alternating in checkerboard
fashion in the fabric. Made principally in cotton. |
| Twill Direction |
Direction of twill in fabric is generally described as the fabric is viewed along the warp. ‘Twill
right’ then refers to the diagonal running upwards to the right [], and the ‘twill left’ to the diagonal moving upwards to the left []. By analogy with twist direction in yarns, an alternative method is to describe ‘twill right’ as ‘Z’ and ‘twill left’ as ‘S’. |
| Twillette |
Weft predominating twill fabric. |
| Twill Left |
See under Twill direction. |
| Twill Right |
See under Twill direction. |
| Twill Tape |
Woven tape used for reinforcing and strengthening parts of garment. |
| Twill Weave |
Identified by the diagonal lines in the goods. It is one of the three basic weaves, the others being
plain and satin. All weaves, simple, elaborate or complex, are derived from these three weaves.
Most twills are 45 degrees in angle. Steep twills are made from angles of 63, 70, 75 degrees while
reclining twills use angles of 27, 20 and 15 degrees. Right-hand twilled clothes include cassimere,
cavalry twill, covert, elastique, gabardine, serge, tackle twill, tricotin, tweed, whipcord. Left-hand
twills include denim, galatea, jean cloth, some drill and twill cloth, and some ticking fabrics. |
| Twill Tape Placket Lining |
Twill tape is attached to the inside of the placket for a fashion effect. |
| Twin Set |
A combination of a matching pullover and cardigan worn together. |
| Twin Fabrics |
Fabrics intended for use in combination. |
| Twine |
1. Term applied loosely to a variety of textile strands used for tying such articles as parcels, bundles,or bales.
2. Assembly of fibres or yarns compacted into a partially or completely balanced twisted structure of indefinite length, generally used for tying or binding.
|
| Twist |
Helical configuration of fibres or filaments in a yarn. The number of turns about its axis per unit of
length observed in a yarn or other textile strand. This is generally indicated as T.P.I. (turns per inch) or T.P.M (turns per metre). It is also measured by helix angle in a structure of known diameter. A yarn may be twisted by down twisting, false twisting, open-end spinning, self-twist spinning, two- for-one twisting or up-twisting. For all practical purposes twist is measured in turns per unit length, but for purely theoretical work its measurement in radians (the S.I. unit) often leads to much simpler expressions. |
| Twist Direction |
Twist is described as ‘S’ or ‘Z’ according to which of these letters has its centre inclined in the
same direction as the surface elements of a given twisted yarn, when the yarn is viewed vertically. |
| Twist Angle |
Angle between the path of a yarn element and the yarn axis. |
| Twist Balance |
In corded constructions, relationship of primary and final twist to each other and to the cord size
such, that residual torsional effects are nullified. |
| Twist Take-up |
Change in length of a yarn or other textile strand caused by twisting, expressed as a percent of the original untwisted length. |
| Twist Contraction |
See Twist take-up. |
| Twist Counter |
Device for determining the turns per unit length in a single or ply yarn. |
| Twisted Rope |
Rope, made from three or more strands, which are laid or twisted together in a twist direction
opposite to the twist direction in the strands. |
| Twister |
Machine, which twists together two or more separate ends of yarn to produce ply or cable yarn or
gives additional twist to a single end. |
| Twist Fabric |
Fabric in plain knit construction. Each loop is twisted as it is constructed. |
| Twist, False |
In processing a heat-set stretch yarn it is passed through a ‘false-twist’ spindle and twisting begins at this time. When omitted from the spindle the twist is automatically removed, hence, the term, false-twist. The yarn, however, retains ‘a memory’ of its twisted position or torque and seeks to return to that position. It is therefore wound or taken-up under tension to prevent it from curling. The torque in the yarn is balanced later on in processing by doubling it with another yarn whose ‘remembered’ twist goes in the opposite direction; thus, a yarn with an ‘S-twist’ and ‘Z-twist’. |
| Twisting |
Also called Doubling. The process of combining two or more parallel single strands into a plied
thread and then winding this twisted thread onto a dye tube. Twist of a single strand (which is
generally to the right, or the "S" direction) is balanced by applying reverse twist (generally to the
left, or the "Z" direction). This helps to achieve a balanced twist and eliminate any tendency to kink
from excessive torque. |
| Twisting-in |
Process of joining new warp yarns to the end of the previous warp in the loom. This is done by
twisting each end of the yarn of the new warp individually onto the corresponding last portion of the old warp. This eliminates the costly operation of drawing-in (or entering) and reeding a new warp. |
| Twistless Spinning |
A system of yarn formation that relies on the use of a permanent or temporary adhesive to bond
fibres together. Note: where a temporary adhesive is used it is removed during fabric finishing, and
the yarn (and fabric) strength is then obtained through lateral pressure produced by the interlacings in the fabric. A similar fabric construction can be achieved by using wrap spun yarns, which have been produced with a soluble binder. |
| Twistless Yarn |
Yarn prepared without twist in order to obtain special properties like increased softness and
improved dyeability.
|
| Twist Level |
The amount of twist per unit length of a yarn. Note: with the exception of false-twisting , the length is normally assumed to be that in the twisted form but, when necessary, ambiguity can be avoided by stating, for example, turns per twisted metre or turns per untwisted metre. |
| Twist-on-Twist |
Plied yarn, in which the twist in the ply is in the same direction as the twist in the component
single yarns. Two-fold yarn in which the twist is in the same direction as that of the single yarn; for
instance, S-S or Z-Z. |
| Twist Setting |
Technique for fixing (setting) to prevent snarling and kinking in the yarn. |
| Twist Spinnability |
The ease with which fibres may be drawn, drafted, doubled, redoubled, attenuated, twisted and
wound from some type of spinning method onto a device for taking care of the newly-spun yarn. |
| Tyrolean Hat |
A head covering marked by soft often green felt, a narrow brim and pointed crown, and an
ornamental feather |
| Two-piece |
A garment, as a bathing suit, that is two-piece |
| Twist Liveliness |
The tendency of a yam to twist or untwist spontaneously. Note 1: examples of effects, which may be caused by twist liveliness, include snarling of yarns during processing and spirality in knitted fabrics. |
| Twitty Yarn |
Descriptive of an irregular yarn or stubbing in which local concentrations of twist have accentuated
the irregular appearance. |
| Two-fold |
‘Two-fold’ cotton is a cloth of the highest quality, made by twisting together a double yarn, giving
the fabric additional strength. We recommend two-fold cotton fabrics especially for those customers who wish to wear the most complimentary combination possible of a shirt or blouse to achieve first-class tailoring and distinguished quality of the cloth. Also called ‘two-ply’. |
| Two-for-One Twisting |
Process in which two turns of twist is inserted for each revolution of twisting element. This is
achieved by inserting one turn of twist between a stationary feed package and rotating disc and a
further turn between the latter and a balloon guide.
If doubling is involved, either a single assembly-wound package or two separate single-wound
packages may be used as the supply. When the single-wound packages are joined together, the
system is called ‘clip-cone two-for-one twisting’. |
| Two-and-Two Check |
Check pattern formed by arranging both warp and weft with two threads of one colour alternating
with two threads of another colour or white. The same colours are used in the weft. Plain weave is
used. |
| Two Bar Atlas Fabric |
Warp knitted fabric having two sets of threads making identical single atlas movements in
opposition. |
| Two-thread Chain Stitch |
Stitch formed with two threads. One needle thread and one looper thread, when balanced normally, the needle thread passes through the fabric and interlaces with the looper thread forming a chain on the underside of the fabric.
|
| Two-way Stretch Yarns |
Also called Stage twisting. A system of producing yarn which consists of two stages: (i) inserting
a low level of twist into a yarn or yarns by ring twisting, and (ii) taking the product of (i) and up-
twisting to insert the desired amount of twist.
Textured yarn in a woven fabric provides increased bulk and comfort because both warps and
fillings are textured-stretch.
|
| Type I Apparel |
Apparel designed for general heavy work; it may be subjected to breaking and tearing stresses
indoors or out.
|
| Type I Apparel |
Apparel designed for light work or leisure activities. It will not be expected to undergo severe
physical stresses. |
| Typewriter Ribbon Fabric |
Fine, closely woven plain fabric used for typewriter ribbons. Fine, combed single yarns of Egyptian
and Pima cotton are used in high thread counts, ranging from 250 to 320 per square inch, and are
woven in tight constructions. Nylon is used as well as silk and high-tenacity rayon. Woven about
40in. wide and cut or slit to the required width. |
| Tyre Cord |
Twisted or formed structure composed of two or more single or plied industrial yarn elements having the same nominal twist, direction of twist, length, and tension. |
| Tyre Fabrics |
Types of heavy duck made from ply yarns that are used in tire manufacture, such as builder fabric,
breaker fabric, chafer fabric, etc.
|
| Tyre Textiles |
Textile materials that are used in the manufacture of rubber tyres. |
| Tyre-cord Fabric |
Fabric, which comprises main carcase of a pneumatic tyre, and constructed predominantly of a ply
warp with a light weft to assist processing. |
| Tyre Builder Fabric |
Fabric consisting of tyre cord yarn in the warp with single yarn filling, at more or less extended
intervals. |
| Tyre Casing |
1. In cross-ply tyres, casing having multiples of two plies extending from bead to bead, with alternate plies at bias angles opposite to the circumferential line, the bias angle increasing from side-wall to crown.
2. In radial-ply tyres, casing having one or more plies extending from bead to bead approximately
90° to the circumferential line. |
| Tabard |
A short loose-fitting sleeveless or short-sleeved coat or cape, as a tunic worn by a knight over his
armour and emblazoned with his arms; a herald's official cape or coat emblazoned with his lord's
arms; a woman's sleeveless outer garment often with side slits, |
| Tab Collar |
1. Fashion button closure for the traditional customer interested in a well turned-out appearance;
the collar style only works with a four-in-hand knot, it keeps it tight to the neck while giving you a
distinguished look.
2. A piece of fabric attached to one side of a jacket collar that can fasten to the other side of the
collar. |
| Tack Button |
Jeans button, that usually comes in 27L diameter. |
| Tacker Gun |
A type of staple gun used to attach fabric, paper, wire, and props. |
| Tack Hammer |
Small hammer used for driving pins. |
| Take |
A modelling term. ‘This is going to be a take’, means that rehearsals are over and the model’s next
movements and words will actually be recorded, hopefully for the last time. |
| Tallith |
A fringed shawl worn over the head or shoulders by Jewish men especially during morning prayer |
| Tam-o'-Shanter |
A Scottish woollen cap with a tight headband, wide flat circular crown, and usually a pompon in the
centre |
| Tamarind Kernel Powder |
Tamarind kernel powder (TKP) is produced out of tamarind seeds. It is available in natural and
de-oiled form. It has two primary uses in the Textile Industry: 1. Sizing: It is an ideal for sizing
material and is extensively used for sizing in textile industry. 2. Thickener: One of the biggest uses
of this is as a textile thickener. Many users modify the natural powder in order to have better results in their specific end uses. It is also used in the Jute Industry: It is extensively used in sizing of jute yarns. Gradually it has replaced most other conventional starches in this industry. It is also used for sizing of cotton wraps. |
| Tan |
A variable colour that is a light yellowish brown. Plural tense: tan-coloured articles of clothing |
| Tangerine |
A moderate to strong orange colour (also a delicious fruit One of the Apparel Search favourites) |
| Tank Top |
A sleeveless collarless shirt with usually wide shoulder straps and no front opening. |
| Tank |
Abbreviated use of the word tank top; a sleeveless collarless shirt with usually wide shoulder straps and no front opening. Example of a sentence using the word tank: The muscular men of the Apparel Search Company look good in a tank. This does not refer to the type of tank that is ridden by members of the army. It simply refers to a type of shirt. |
| Tankini |
A two-piece bathing suit with the upper portion resembling a tank top. |
| Tank Suit |
A one-piece bathing suit with usually wide shoulder straps. |
| Tapa |
A coarse cloth made in the Pacific islands from the pounded bark especially of the paper mulberry and usually decorated with geometric patterns. |
| Taped Seams |
A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of a garment to prevent distortion. In outerwear, taped seams aid in waterproofing. |
| Taslan |
Refers to how the fibres are woven and the resulting texture. Used mainly in outerwear garments,
Taslan is a durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a slightly shiny surface. |
| Tear sheets |
A modelling term. Pages torn from a magazine or newspaper, which prominently feature a model.
The model "tears" them from the publication to include in her portfolio. |
| Textured Threads |
Threads that have been false-twist textured to entangle the parallel continuous filament. |
| Tights |
A skin-tight garment covering the body from the neck or the waist down; [Chiefly British] panty
hose |
| Tiffany |
A sheer silk gauze formerly used for clothing and trimmings; a plain-woven open-mesh cotton fabric
(as cheesecloth). |
| Tiking |
Cotton; usually twill (L2/1 or L3/1), some jacquard, satin, and dobby. Very tightly woven with
more warp than filling yarns. Very sturdy and strong, smooth and lustrous. Usually has white and
coloured stripes, but some patterned (floral). Can be made water-repellent, germ resistant, and
feather-proof. "Bohemian ticking" has a plain weave, a very high texture, and is featherproof.
Lighter weight than regular ticking. Patterned with narrow coloured striped on a white background
or may have a chambray effect by using a white or unbleached warp with a blue or red filling. |
| Twit |
Unevenness in roving or yarn, imperfections generally caused in drawing or spinning. |
| Twists |
1. General term for fabrics made of yarns with a great amount of twist with the exception of crêpes.Not to be confused with twist.
2. Mottled woollen or worsted fabric made with yarn composed of two colours.
3, Plain knitted fabric in which each loop is twisted as it is formed |
| Tycora |
This registered trademark of Textured Yarn Company is applied to several processes used in the
modification of continuous filament yarn. Tycora yarns have a soft hand, high dye affinity, strength
and durability, bulkiness without added weight, and they are non-pilling. |
| Typp |
Number of 1000yard lengths of yarn per pound. It is an obsolete system of indirect yarn numbering. |
| Tapered Legs |
Pant legs become progressively narrower toward the ankle. |
| Tea Length |
A gown hemmed to end at the shin. |
| Temperature |
A measure of the intensity of heat, i.e. the hotness or coldness of a sample. or object. |
| Tennies |
Tennis shoes, sneakers. |
| Tennis Shoe |
A lightweight usually low-cut sneaker. One of the many uses is for playing tenni |
| Test |
A modelling term. Test shooting is solely for the purpose of producing a good portfolio. No client
is involved and the model is not paid a fee. The test is usually ordered and paid for by a modelling
agency. The test usually makes or breaks a model. It provides a model with physical evidence of her ability to work with a camera and to work under professional conditions. |
| Tex Size |
A thread numbering system in which size is equal to the weight in grams of 1,000 meters of greige
thread. The larger the tex size, the coarser the thread. |
| Textile Art |
A general term used to describe works of art created using fabric. |
| Thong |
A sandal held on the foot by a thong fitting between the toes and connected to a strap across the top or around the sides of the foot. A thong is also a version of underwear or swimwear. |
| Tiara |
A three-tiered crown worn by the pope; a jewelled or flowered headband for formal wear by women |
| Tile |
Hat, especially a high silk hat. |
| Tin Hat |
A metal helmet |
| Titration |
A Procedure in which one solution is added to another solution until the chemical reaction between
the two solutes is complete; the concentration of one solution is known and that of the other is
unknown. |
| Toboggan |
A knit hat worn to keep the head warm in cold temperatures.A knit hat worn to keep the head warm in cold temperatures. |
| Top Boot |
A high boot often with light-coloured leather bands around the upper part |
| Topcoat |
A lightweight overcoat |
| Topee |
A lightweight helmet-shaped hat made of pith or cork |
| Topknot |
An ornament, as a knot of ribbons or a pompom, forming a headdress or worn as part of a coiffure; a crest of feathers or tuft of hair on the top of the head. |
| Top Fusing |
A heat process, by which the shirt fabric is joined to a flexible lining, to add body or enhance
appearance, especially useful for maintaining a crisp look for collars and cuffs. |
| Towelling |
A cotton or linen fabric often used for making towels |
| Toy |
A Scottish] linen or wool headdress depending to the shoulders once worn by old women of the
lower classes |
| Trade |
A modelling term. Anyone in the same business. In modelling it is the model, the agency staffers,
photographers, designers, manufacturers, buyers, fashion editors, illustrators, ad executives,
department store personnel and clients. |
| Trapeze Top |
Tank top style with flared bottom. |
| Transparent |
Any paint or dye that you can see through. All dyes and some paints are transparent. Transparent
dyes and paints are meant for light coloured fabric. |
| Trench |
Trench coat |
| Trench Coat |
A waterproof overcoat with a removable lining; a double-breasted raincoat with deep pockets, wide belt, and straps on the shoulders |
| Tracksuit |
A suit of clothing consisting usually of a jacket and pants that is often worn by athletes when
working out / exercising |
| T-rod |
An upside-down, T-shaped metal device. The upright end secures into the butt fitting of the
mannequin while the flat, horizontal bar rests on the ground and serves as an easel base for the
mannequin. |
| Trews |
Mainly British pant, especially tight-fitting trousers usually of tartan; close-cut tartan shorts worn
under the kilt in Highland dress. |
| Triacetate |
A man-made fibre produced from cellulose triacetate in the forms of filament yarn, staple and tow.
Cellulose triacetate fibre differs from acetate fibre in that during its manufacture the cellulose is
completely acetylated where as regular acetate, which is diacetate, is only partially acetylated. |
| Trunk |
Hose short full breeches reaching halfway down the thigh worn chiefly in the late 16th and early 17th centuries |
| Trunk Form |
A masculine body part that extends from above the waistline to the knees or slightly below. It
is ideally suited for showing shorts, swim trunks and briefs. This form is usually designed to
wear a size 30. Longer forms will show more leg while the shorter forms will cut in mid-length. |
| Trouser |
Pant; usually used in plural. |
| TUD |
Thiourea dioxide. Also known as Thiox. A replacement for Sodium Hydrosulphite in Indigo vat
dyeing, discharge printing and colour stripping with cellulose fibres. Five times stronger than
Sodium hydrosulphite. |
| Tulle Skirt |
Also called Bouffant gown. A sheer, puffed-out skirt often made of stiffened silk, rayon, or nylon
net. |
| Tunic |
A simple slip-on garment made with or without sleeves and usually knee-length or longer, belted
at the waist and worn as an under or outer garment by men and women of ancient Greece and
Rome; surcoat; a long usually plain close-fitting jacket with high collar worn especially as part of a
uniform; tunicle; a short overskirt; a hip-length or longer blouse or jacket |
| Tuque |
A warm knitted usually pointed stocking cap |
| Turban |
A headdress worn chiefly in countries of the eastern Mediterranean and southern Asia especially by Muslims and made of a cap around which is wound a long cloth; a headdress resembling a Muslim turban, specifically a woman's close-fitting hat without a brim |
| Turquoise |
A variable colour averaging a light greenish blue. |
| Turquoise Blue |
A light greenish blue that is paler and slightly bluer than average turquoise. |
| Turquoise Green |
A light bluish green. |
| Turtleneck |
A high close-fitting turnover collar used especially for sweaters; a sweater with a turtleneck. |
| Two-ply |
1. Composed of two single yarns, as two-ply yarn.
2. Consisting of two layers, made with two sets of warp and two sets of wefts, as double cloth or
other fabrics, which have been combined in two layers. |
| Two-way Zipper |
A zipper with two zipper pulls so that it can be unzipped from either direction. |
| Typar |
Registered trademark of DuPont for spunbonded material made of olefin fibres, designed primarily
as backing for tufted carpets and rugs. |
| Tyvek |
Registered trademark of DuPont for spunbonded high density material made of olefin fibres
and used as well-coverings substrate, industrial uses, and a wide range of other applications. |
| Tasse |
One of a series of overlapping metal plates in a suit of armour that form a short skirt below the waist |
| Tarboosh |
A red hat similar to the fez worn especially by Muslim men |
| Ten-gallon Hat |
A cowboy hat. |
| Twist |
The number of turns about its axis per unit of length of a yarn or other textile strand. |
| Tuxedo |
A single-breasted or double-breasted usually black or blackish blue jacket; formal evening clothes
for men. |
| Tutu |
A short projecting skirt worn by a ballerina |
| Tunic Style |
A simple slip-on garment made with or without sleeves and usually knee-length or longer, belted at the waist, and worn as an under or outer garment. |
| Tunicle |
A short vestment worn by a sub deacon over the alb during mass and by a bishop under the dalmatic at pontifical ceremonies |
| Tuille |
One of the hinged plates before the thigh in plate armour |
| Tubular Collar |
Collar, which is knit in a tube form so it has no seams. |
| Tuck-in Tails |
A shirt constructed so the back hem is longer than the front. This aids in keeping the shirt tucked-in
during strenuous activities. |
| Two-piece Needle |
Needle having two separately controlled parts, a hook member and a hook-closing member. |
| Two-stage Twisting |
Yarn producing system consisting two stages: insert low level of twist into a yarn or yarns by ring
twisting, and again take this yarn and ‘uptwist’ to insert desired amount of twists. |
| Takauchiya |
A kind pyjama. It is described as a coat without lining, of the Indian form. Formerly it had slits in the skirt, and was tied on the left side; his majesty has ordered it to be made with a round skirt and to be tied on the right side. |
| Tackspun Fabric |
A material made from a polymer film with a backing substrate. The film is melted by a roller to
which it adheres, drawing up a fibrous pile. |
| Tactel |
Trade name a of filament nylon fibre. |
| Tailcoat |
A coat with tails, especially a man's full-dress coat with two long tapering skirts at the back. |
| Taper |
To decrease width gradually and bring it to an end point. |
| Tear-away Shorts |
Features versatile side snaps that allow you to remove a top layer fast. |
| Teddy |
A woman's one-piece undergarment, or chemise |
| Teentah Topi |
A topi consisting of three different pieces, stitched together. |
| Tefillin |
The phylacteries worn by Jews. |
| Teklon |
A rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water repellent |
| Terai |
A wide-brimmed double felt sun hat worn especially in subtropical regions |
| Terre-Tek |
A durable and water repellent Taslan with a matte finish. |
| Terra-cotta |
Brownish orange. |
| Tie |
A neckwear. |
| Tie-cinched Waist |
The waist is pulled tight around the body with a tie. |
| Tie-Dye |
A technique of dyeing natural fabrics that involves soaking the fabric in a fixer, folding, twisting, or
scrunching the fabric, and then squirting the dye formula on the folds. Then, letting it sit 2-24 hours
in plastic bags, rinsing and washing it out. |
| Tie-dyed |
A hand method of dyeing that involves gathering small portions of the fabric and tying them tightly before dyeing. The tied areas resist penetration of the dye, resulting in irregular patterns. Also refers to similar designs created by machine methods.
|
| Tipped collar |
A ribbed knit fashion collar with a contrast colour knitted into the edge of the collar. |
| Titfer |
A British] hat |
| Titian |
Of a brownish orange colour. |
| Toga |
The loose outer garment worn in public by citizens of ancient Rome; also, a similar loose wrap or a
professional, official, or academic gown. |
| Top Dyed |
A fibre dyeing method in which dye in applied to combed fibres in an untwisted or loosely twisted
rope form (called top or sliver). Sometimes dye is applied or printed on the fibre at regular intervals
to give a melange effect. Top dyeing results in good colourfastness |
| Topper |
Silk hat; opera hat; a woman's usually short and loose-fitting lightweight outer coat |
| Top-sider |
Trade name used for a low casual shoe having a rubber sole. |
| Toque |
A woman's small hat without a brim made in any of various soft close-fitting shapes. |
| Torchon |
A coarse bobbin or machine-made lace made with fan-shaped designs forming a scalloped edge. |
| Tow-to-top |
A process in which heavy continuous-filament yam, having no twist and a substantially parallel
alignment of the filaments, is cut or broken into staple and drafted into a sliver as a continuous
process. It is characteristic of the process that the tow does not lose its form, although the filaments are broken down into short lengths, but is only attenuated in the drafting process. |
| Tracking |
The information given to monitor progress of a particular shipment to its destination. Most freight
companies will assign a number to your shipment. This number will show various details of your
delivery such as the date to expect arrival. Most of the time you will have the ability to insert the
tracking number into the freight carriers website for detailed information. |
| Transfer Paper |
Use to transfer designs on fabric. Use graphite for light fabrics and white for dark fabrics.. |
| Tricolette |
A usually silk or rayon knitted fabric used especially for women's clothing. |
| Transfer Pencil |
Use it on tracing paper, and then iron the line drawing on your fabric with an iron. |
| Trilby |
A soft felt hat with indented crown |
| Tristimulus Values |
The amounts of three defined primaries (usually blue, red and green) required to be mixed additively to match the colour of the object, under defined conditions. |
| Triptych |
Like the diptych this is a set of three associated paintings displayed side by side. |
| TSP |
Trisodium phosphate (TSP) is an activator (alkali) that used to be used for fixing Fibre Reactive
Dyes, until the formula was changed a few years ago. It is no longer as caustic, so we have no idea if it still works or how much you would use. |
| Tub Dyeing |
Also called Vat Dyeing. The basic method for solid colour dyeing. You can use buckets, a
bathtub, the washing machine or even plastic garbage pails. You need lukewarm water, around
105 ° F, soda ash to fix the dye, non-iodised salt and Synthrapol as a pre-wash and after wash. |
| Tufting Yarn |
A yarn that is hooked with a needle into the fabric at very high speeds. Tufting Yarn is used for
carpeting and upholstery. |
