| SABLE |
A dark brown luxury
fur which is very hardwearing. |
| SABLÉ GROUND |
A French term for
a block-printed cloth which has tiny-pinned dots printed
all over it before the printing of the main pattern. |
| SACKING |
A general term
applied to coarse fabrics, used mainly for making of bags
or sacks. |
| SADDENING |
A wool dyeing process
in which the mordant is applied after, instead of before
the dyestuff. |
| SADDLE SHOULDER |
The shape of the
junction between the sleeve and the body of a garment |
| SAFETY STITCH |
Stitch formed by
an over-edge stitch, reinforced by a chain stitch (or
sometimes lockstitch), further in from the fabric edge. |
| SAILCLOTH |
Firm ribbed fabric
made from cotton, rayon usually, or polyester and cotton |
| SALISBURY |
Popular white English
flannel; made of woollen yarn. |
| SALT AND PEPPER |
Fabric made of
black and white ply yarns |
| SALT SENSITIVITY |
IN DYEING. The
extent to which the dyeing properties (especially on cellulosic
fibres) of a dye are af-fected, by the addition of a neutral
electrolyte to the dyebath. |
| SAMITE |
See Xamitum. |
| SAMPLE |
A portion of a
lot of material which is taken for testing or for record
purposes. |
| SAMPLING PLAN |
A procedure for
obtaining a sample |
| SAMPLING UNIT |
An identifiable,
discrete unit or sub-unit of material that could be taken
as part of a sample. |
| SAND CRÊPE |
A fabric with an
irregular surface texture made from silk or man-made fibres. |
| SAND ROLLER MARKS |
Fabric defect. |
| SANDED |
See Sablé
ground. |
| SANDFLY NET |
See Bobbin net |
| SANDWICH BLENDING |
Mixing fibres from
different package lots, units, or of different characteristics |
| SANDWICH-PLATED
FABRIC |
See under Plated
fabric. |
| SANFORIZE PUCKER |
Fabric defect,
may be major or minor. |
| SANFORIZED |
The trademark of
a controlled mechanical shrinking process applied to cottons
and other fabrics liable to be washed a great deal. |
| SANFORIZED COTTON
SEW-IN |
See under Sew-in
woven interfacing. |
| SANFORIZING MARK |
Fabric defect.
Also called Blanket mark. |
| SANITIZED |
A germicidal or
bacteriostatic finish applied to fabric, plastic and other
materials. |
| SANSEVIERIA |
A fibre obtained
from the leaves of various species of plants of the genus
'Sansevieria'. |
| SAPONIFIED ACETATE
RAYON |
A high-tenacity
acetate rayon, which is insoluble in acetone and is dyed
like viscose rayon. |
| SAPONIFIED CELLULOSE
ACETATE |
The saponified
cellulose acetate filaments are made by heating cellulose
acetate filament yarns in steam and stretching the softened
yarn by 4 to 10 times its original length. |
| SARAN |
A manufactured
fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long
chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 80 % by weight
of vinylidene chloride units. |
| SARI |
Also spelled 'saree'
A term applied to the fabric woven especially for saris. |
| SARILLE |
Trade name of a
soft cellulose fibre, developed from viscose and used
to produce warm fabrics. |
| SARONG |
A draped costume
consisting of a piece of fabric woven 5 m. to 7 m. long,
usually of cotton, sometimes silk. |
| SARSNET RIBBON |
A ribbon constructed
entirely in plain weave of very fine warp and weft and
with high density, the weft density being higher than
that of the warp. |
| SARSONET |
Originally a fine
Arabian fabric of silk, it is now a net or veiling fabric
in millinery |
| SATEEN |
In pure sateen
weaves, the surface of the cloth consists almost entirely
of weft floats. Sateen is manufactured in many different
types and weights. The standard curtain lining fabric
is a good example of this type of fabric, made from cotton
and given a schreiner finish to produce lustre.
Most commonly used for linings. According to quality it
is used as curtain lining or curtain fabric. Used for
costumes for the stage and fancy dress. Soft and drapes
well. It does not wear particularly well; seams tend to
pull and crack-marks appear where hems are pressed. It
is not often used as a dress fabric for these rea-sons. |
| SATEEN FINISH |
A highly lustrous
finish with a fairly crisp hand applied to certain cotton
fabrics to imitate satin fabrics. |
| SATIN |
Fabric, that is
very smooth and has lustrous face on the right side (although
sometimes both sides are satin weave). |
| SATIN DRILL |
A drill fabric
made with a five-end satin weave |
| SATIN FINISH |
A smooth lustrous
finish, which may be applied to several fabrics. |
| SATIN STITCH |
Embroidery done
in close parallel lines (stitches) over a printed design |
| SATIN STRIPE |
Fabric of almost
any fibre, including cotton, that has a satin-weave shiny
stripe alternating with contrasting stripe of a different
weave of thickness of yarn, even of a different colour |
| SATIN STRIPES |
A stripe in fabric
formed by a satin weave. |
| SATIN WEAVE |
One of the three
basic types of weave, the other two being Plain and Twill. |
| SATIN, KNITTED |
A two-bar warp-knitted
fabric in which the front-bar underlaps are arranged with
a view to producing a smooth surface. |
| SATIN-BACK |
Any fabric of any
fibre where the reverse side is of satin weave. |
| SATIN-BACK CRÊPE |
See Satin-back
crêpe. |
| SATINET WEAVE |
See Satinett. |
| SATINETT |
A four-end irregular
satin or sateen weave. |
| SATURATION BONDING |
A method of making
nonwoven fabrics |
| SATURATION REGAIN |
The moisture in
a material at 95 to 100 % relative humidity. |
| SATURATION VALUE |
The maximum quantity
of a dye which can be absorbed by a substrate under defined
conditions. |
| SAWDUST CRÊPE |
A type of rayon
fabric made in a crêpe construction with a harsher
hand than sand crêpe. |
| SAXONY |
FIBRE. The high
grade Class One wool of the merino wool group. |
| SAXONY FINISH |
A finish generally
applied to woollen fabric; the cloth is fulled, stretched,
napped, shorn short and then brushed and pressed. |
| SCAFFOLDING YARN |
That component
of a plied yarn that is used to support a weaker component
through further processing until it is satisfactorily
introduced into a fabric. |
| SCALE LINES |
In engraved printing-roller
work |
| SCALES |
The overlapping
horny cell components which make up the outside surface
of the wool fibre. |
| SCALLOP |
Curves or indentations
along the edge of a fabric. |
| SCALLOPED SELVEDGE |
Also called Misclip,
Off-dip. Fabric defect. |
| SCARF |
A square piece
of cloth worn for warmth or as a decorative apparel item. |
| SCHAPPE SILK |
A type of silk
from which the gum has been removed by fermentation. |
| SCHAPPING |
A method of degumming
applied to silk waste, which removes part of the gum by
a fermentation process. |
| SCHIFFLI LACE |
Name originates
from the machine itself. |
| SCHIFFLI MACHINE |
An embroidery machine |
| SCHREINER |
A finish for enhancing
the lustre of the fabric, obtained by passing it through
a schreiner calender. |
| SCHREINERING |
A fabric finishing
process which smoothen the right side, often impressing
a pattern at the same time. |
| SCOOP |
Deprecated term. |
| SCOTCH BEAMING |
See Dry taping
under Scotch dressing. |
| SCOTCH BLACKFACE |
A well-known breed
of sheep, which produces much long carpet wool. |
| SCOTCH CARPET |
See under Ingrain
carpet. |
| SCOTCH DRESSING |
Dry taping: Also
called Scotch beaming. |
| SCOTCH FINISH |
A term applied
to heavy woollens finished with a closely shorn nap. |
| SCOTCH TWEED |
Woollen tweed made
in twill weave using a white warp and brightly coloured
weft yarns. |
| SCOTCH WARP DRESSING |
See Dresser sizing
under Scotch dressing. |
| SCOTCHGUARD |
A registered shower-proof
finish applied to some fabrics |
| SCOURED WOOL |
Wool, from which
the bulk of impurities have been removed by an aqueous
or solvent washing process. |
| SCOURING |
The cleaning of
raw stock, yarn or cloth to remove various impurities
as oils, fats, waxes, soluble impurities and any adhering
particulate of solid dirt. |
| SCRATCH FELT |
Cheap quality woollen
fabric made to resemble camel cloth. |
| SCRAY |
A 'J' shaped container
in which piece goods may be accumulated in folds or pleats. |
| SCREEN ENGRAVING |
The production
of the open and in-filled pattern areas on the print-screen
surface |
| SCREEN PRINTING |
A stencil-like
method of printing, using a screen of fine mesh cloth. |
| SCRIM |
Loosely woven cloth
in cotton yarn, similar to voile but a poorer quality
fabric. |
| SCRIMP |
Printing defect,
major. |
| SCRIMP ROLLER |
Also called Scroll
roller. |
| SCRIMPS |
A wrinkle in a
cloth caused by excessive strain, tension or pressure
on a fabric. |
| SCROLL GIMP |
A woven figured
narrow fabric having two series of wefts and a warp. |
| SCROLL ROLLER |
See Scrimp roller |
| SCROOP |
The rustling sound
associated with silk, which is heard when fabric is compressed,
rubbed together or with body movement when worn. |
| SCULPTURED PILE |
See under Pile
in carpet |
| SCULPTURED RUG |
A floor covering
with Jacquard designs, in different heights of pile. |
| SCUTCHER |
A machine which
breaks and opens up fibres. |
| SCUTCHING |
IN COTTON FIBRE.
An operation in which cotton is opened mechanically and
cleaned and formed into a continuous lap. |
| SCYE |
The armhole of
a garment |
| SCYE DEPTH |
Garment-related
term. |
| SEA ISLAND COTTON |
A type of extra
long staple cotton fibre. |
| SEA SILK |
Strong lustrous
fibres yielded by certain algae. |
| SEAL |
Shiny and flat
hair with coarse texture |
| SEALSKIN |
Fur, of the Alaskan
seal, usually dyed black or brown. |
| SEAM |
Also called Joining
line. A line where two or more fabrics are joined, usually
near the edge. |
| SEAM ALLOWANCE |
Also called Seam
margin. |
| SEAM ASSEMBLY |
The composite structure
obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam |
| SEAM BASTING |
A temporary sewing
together of two parts of a garment. |
| SEAM BINDING |
A straight tape
used for finishing the edges of hems and seams |
| SEAM BUSTING |
Pressing open seams,
often carried out as an intermediate operation during
garment assembly. |
| SEAM DAMAGE |
Sewing defect |
| SEAM EFFICIENCY |
In sewn fabrics,
the ratio of seam strength to fabric strength |
| SEAM MARGIN |
See Seam allowance. |
| SEAM MARK |
Fabric defect,
in finished woven cloth |
| SEAM OPENING |
See Seam busting |
| SEAM PUCKER |
Puckering of fabric
along the line of stitching at a seam. |
| SEAM QUALITY |
The serviceability
and appearance of a seam as governed by the quality of
the fabric |
| SEAM SLIPPAGE |
In sewn fabrics,
the displacement of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent
to the stitch line. |
| SEAM SMOOTHNESS |
In fabrics, the
visual impression of planarity of a seamed specimen quantified |
| SEAM TYPES |
An alphanumeric
designation relating to the essential characteristics
of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a specified
sewn fabric seam. |
| SEAM-FINISH |
A treatment of
the raw fabric edges of the seam allowance in a plain
seam. |
| SEAMING |
Joining together
the component parts of a garment at a given distance from
the edge of the material. |
| SEAMING DEFECTS
IN GARMENT |
See under Garment
defects, classified |
| SEAMLOC |
A treatment with
a plastic binder on the back of woven carpets to prevent
the fabric from ravelling |
| SEAT |
Part of trousers
covering the buttocks |
| SEAT ANGLE |
The quantity of
material, usually 5 to 8 cm., allowed at the seat on the
underside for ease of movement. |
| SEAT BELT WEBBING |
A woven webbing,
usually of polyester |
| SEAWEED FIBRES |
See Alignate fibres |
| SECANT MODULUS |
On a stress/strain
diagram, the ratio of change in stress to change in strain
between two points, especially the points of zero stress
and breaking stress. |
| SECOND-HAND FILLING
MATERIAL |
An industry product
which contains any filling material which has previously
been used |
| SECONDARY COLOURS |
See under Colour |
| SECONDS |
Textile products
which, owing to some fault or imperfection |
| SECRET FINISH |
Usually a newly
patented finish of a converter. |
| SECTION MARK |
Fabric defect in
woven fabrics. Unintented warp bands of different colour,
texture, or lustre. |
| SECTION WARPING |
See Pattern warping
and also Beam warping. |
| SEE-THROUGH FABRIC |
A very sheer cloth
such as gauze. |
| SEED COAT FRAGMENT |
In cotton, a portion
of a cottonseed, |
| SEED COTTON |
Cotton, as harvested
and before ginning |
| SEED EFFECT |
Appearance of having
small seed-like objects scattered over the surface of
the fabric. |
| SEED FIBRES |
A general term
applied to fibres and hairs produced by the seeds or seed
pods of plants |
| SEERLOOP GINGHAM |
Gingham with slack-tension
loops of yarn on the surface, often on the white lines
only. |
| SEERSUCKER |
Traditional form
of cotton fabric showing crinkled/puckered stripes alternating
with flat ones of various widths which may be in different
colours and sizes. |
| SELF-BLENDED YARN |
A single yarn spun
from a blend or mixture of the same fibre species. |
| SELF-BOUND SEAM-FINISH |
A finish for the
raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, in which
one seam allowance encloses both raw edges. |
| SELF-EDGE |
Same as Selvedge. |
| SELF-FASTENING
TAPE FASTENERS |
Also called Hook
and loop fasteners and Touch and close fasteners. |
| SELF-FIGURE |
Also called Self-stripe. |
| SELF-STITCHING
DOUBLE CLOTH |
See under Double
cloth. |
| SELF-STRIPE |
See Self-figure. |
| SELF-TWIST SPINNING |
A method of making
yarn from rovings fed to a drafting unit |
| SELF-TWIST TWISTED
YARN (STT |
A self-twist yarn
to which unidirectional twist has been added in a subsequent
operation. |
| SELVAGE |
Same as Selvedge |
| SELVEDGE |
Also called Selvage,
List, and Listing. The woven edge portion of a fabric
parallel to the warp. |
| SELVEDGE END BREAKS |
Fabric defect. |
| SELVEDGE IN KNITTING |
The sealed edge
of a piece of weft knitted fabric. |
| SELVEDGE MARK |
Fabric defect.
A more or less regular, lengthways, crease mark, in the
finished cloth, along the selvedge. |
| SELVEDGE TORN |
Fabric defect,
major. Self-explanatory. |
| SELVEDGE TURNDOWN |
Fabric defect.
A lengthways streak immediately adjacent to the selvedge,
characterised by a difference in colour from that of the
body of the fabric, by surface disturbance, or by both |
| SELVEDGE WIDENING |
In weft knitting,
a method of shaping a garment panel |
| SELVEDGE, DISTORTED |
A selvedge that
does not itself vary in width |
| SELVEDGE, UNEVEN |
See Uneven selvedge. |
| SELVEDGE, WEFT
KNITTING |
The edge of a fully-fashioned
garment panel. |
| SEMI-COLLAPSED
BALLOON SPINNING |
Also called Semi-suppressed
balloon spinning. |
| SEMI-DULL |
See under Delustred. |
| SEMI-MILLED FINISH |
A finish on lightly
milled fabrics containing wool |
| SEMI-PERMANENT
SET |
See under Setting |
| SEMI-SUPPRESSED
BALLOON SPINNING |
See Semi-collapsed
balloon spinning. |
| SEMI-WORSTED SPUN |
A term applied
to yarn spun from sliver produced by carding and gilling
in which the fibres are substantially parallel, the carded
sliver not having been condensed or combed. |
| SENNIT ROPE |
See under Rope. |
| SENSITIZED |
The chemical treatment
of a fabric before curing to give it a memory. |
| SEPARABLE PIN |
In zippers, a tube-like
element attached over the bead at the bottom end of one
stringer. |
| SEPARABLE ZIPPER |
A zipper fitted
with special components at the bottom of the chain |
| SEPARATE ELEMENT
ZIPPER |
A zipper consisting
two series of separately formed elements |
| SEPARATING COURSE |
In weft knitting,
a course of knitted loops separating one garment or garment
part from another |
| SEPARATION |
In printing, the
opaque painted or photographically produced positive of
all areas of one design colour on transparent film. |
| SEQUENTIAL DRAW-TEXTURING |
See under Draw
texturing. |
| SEQUIN LACE |
A crochet lace
made of coloured yarn with coloured braid for the design |
| SERGE |
Either a twill
cloth or a smooth faced plain-weave material, made from
worsted or woollen yarn |
| SERGING |
The operation of
neatening the cut edge to avoid fraying, by means of an
overedge stitch. |
| SERICEOUS |
Made of silk; like
silk |
| SERICIN |
The natural gum
cementing the two fibroin filaments in a silk bave. |
| SERSICULTURE |
The raising of
silkworms and production of silk |
| SET |
See Sett. |
| SET MARK |
A stop mark resulting
from a prolonged loom shutdown. |
| SET TWIST |
Also called Dead
twist. |
| SET YARN |
See Stabilised
yarn. |
| SET-IN SLEEVE |
A separate sleeve
which is attached to the scye. |
| SETT |
Also called Set,
Pitch. |
| SETT, SQUARE |
A fabric in which
the number of ends per centimetre and the number of picks
per centimetre are approximately equal. |
| SETT, UNBALANCED |
A fabric in which
there is an appreciable difference between the number
of ends and picks per centimetre. |
| SETTING |
The process of
conferring stability of form upon fibres, yarns, fabrics,
or garments, usually by means of successive heating and
cooling in moist or dry conditions. |
| SEW |
To unite or fasten
with stitches made with a needle and thread. |
| SEW-IN WOVEN INTERFACINGS |
Stiffened cotton
sew-in, Marquisette sew-in...etc |
| SEW-KNIT FABRIC |
See Stitch-bonded
fabric |
| SEW-THROUGH FLANGE
BUTTON |
See under Button |
| SEWED YARN |
A yarn interwoven
into a fabric by hand |
| SEWING DEFECTS
IN GARMENT |
See under Garment
defects, classified. |
| SEWING OUT |
Sewing of the garment
parts together with the raw edges turned in |
| SEWING PREPARATION
DEFECTS IN GARMENT |
See under Garment
defects, classified. |
| SEWING THREAD |
A flexible, small-diameter
yarn or strand, usually treated with a surface coating,
lubricant, or both |
| SEWN SEAM |
Also called Stitche
seam. |
| SHADE BAR |
See Bar. |
| SHADE CHANGE |
A change from the
normal or expected colour of a textile material. |
| SHADE CLOTH |
A plain weave fabric
that has been treated with starch, oil and chemicals so
that it is opaque. |
| SHADED GOODS |
A finishing defect
in which the cloth shows uneven colouring. |
| SHADING |
In coloured textile
fabrics, gradual change in hue, chroma and/or lightness,
lengthways or widthways. |
| SHADOW CHECK |
An indistinct,
shadowy-check effect produced by employing alternate stripes
of right-hand and left-hand twist yarns in both warp and
weft. |
| SHADOW LACE |
The density of
the stitch, forms the pattern in this type of machine-made
lace. |
| SHADOW PRINT |
Silk.ribbon or
cretonne woven with printed warp yarn forming indistinct
design |
| SHADOW STRIPE FABRIC |
See Single bar
atlas fabric. |
| SHADOW STRIPE,
WOVEN |
An effect, caused
by different reflections of light, produced in woven fabrics |
| SHADOW WEAVE |
The appearance
of reflected shadows |
| SHADOW WELT |
See After-welt |
| SHADY FILLING |
Fabric defect. |
| SHAFT |
Term used to describe
the number of sheds, necessary to complete a pattern,
before a repeat. |
| SHAFTY WOOL |
Strong, dense and
well-grown wool with good length and spinning characteristics. |
| SHALLOON |
A 2/2 twill-weave
fabric made from crossbred worsted yarns, used as a lining
for coats, liveries, etc. |
| SHAM |
A fabric covering
for a bed pillow, usually of decorative fabric that matches
the bedcovering. |
| SHAM HOLE |
An imitation buttonhole. |
| SHANK |
A link between
a button and the fabric to which it is sewn |
| SHANK BUTTON |
See under Button |
| SHANTUNG |
This is a plain
weave fabric with an unevenly ribbed surface and a crisp
texture. |
| SHANTUNG-TYPE YARN |
An irregular yarn
made from fibres other than natural silk |
| SHAPE |
See Suppression. |
| SHAPE-SET |
The ability of
a garment or other textile article to hold its manufactured
shape as a result of durable press treatment |
| SHAPING |
IN GAREMENT MANUFACTURE,
cutting of fabric in the correct shape and size by use
of a template or shaper, e.g. at the lapel and collar. |
| SHARKSKIN |
This originated
as a closely woven compact twill fabric made from delustred
man-made fibre yarns such as cellulose acetate |
| SHARP MARK |
A printed design
that has a sharp, well-defined edge with no migration
of colour or blurring. |
| SHAWL |
An oblong, triangle
or square piece of fabric made of a great variety of fibres
in a wide range of sizes |
| SHEAR MARKS |
Fabric defect. |
| SHEAR STRAINING |
See under Shearing
property. |
| SHEARED TERRY PILE |
See under Velour |
| SHEARING |
Cutting fleece
from sheep. |
| SHEARING PROPERTY |
The deformation
of a fabric structure in which a rectangular element becomes
lozenge shaped is termed shear straining. |
| SHEARS |
A band cutting
tool similar to scissors, but with angled blades and thumb
rests, and with a cutting edge of at least 20 cm. |
| SHEATH |
IN FIBRE. The
outer part of a fibre |
| SHEATH-CORE |
A descriptive term
for a multicomponent textile fibre consisting of a continuous
envelope which encases a continuous, central, internal
region. |
| SHED |
The opening formed
when the warp threads are separated in the operation of
weaving. |
| SHEDDING |
The operation
of forming the shed in weaving. |
| SHEEPSKIN |
The skin of the
sheep or goat with the wool on the outside or inside. |
| SHEER |
The name given
to a group of transparently thin or diaphanous fabric |
| SHEET |
See under Sheeting. |
| SHEET BLANKET |
A thin blanket
of cotton or cotton and synthetic blend having a nap on
both sides. |
| SHEETING |
A class of fabrics
in a wide range of counts and widths. |
| SHELL COTTON |
A class of heavy
impurities found in excessive seed coverings and fleshy
kernels of cotton. |
| SHELL-STTICH FABRIC |
A warp knitted
fabric having a raised shell-like surface |
| SHEPHERD'S CHECK |
Description of
a traditional Scottish Border design in 6 mm squares of
black and white. |
| SHEPHERD'S PLAID |
See Shepherd's
check. |
| SHETLAND |
A suiting fabric
made wholly or partially of Shetland wool. |
| SHETLAND WOOL |
Real Shetland wool
is the underneath part of fleece of Shetland sheep, pulled
out by hand in springtime |
| SHIER |
Also called Shire |
| SHIFTING |
Distortion of a
fabric due to unexpected movement of the yarns. |
| SHINER |
Fabric defect |
| SHIPMENT |
Goods or commodities
which are transported together as a unit |
| SHIRE |
Same as Shier. |
| SHIRLEY CLOTH |
A type of cotton
fabric made of mercerised yarns produced from long-staple
cotton. |
| SHIRRED FABRICS |
A range of fabrics
with one edge elasticised to a depth of 6-10 cm and made
available as ready-to sew skirt and sundress fabrics |
| SHIRRING |
A decorative method
of controlling fullness with several parallel rows of
gathering, |
| SHIRT COLLAR INTERFACING
SEW-IN |
See under Sew-in
woven interfacing. |
| SHIRTING |
Any fabric of any
fibre that is closely woven and implies absorbent, hardwearing
qualities. |
| SHIVES |
Fabric defect. |
| SHODDY |
Fibres made from
ground-up rags and mixed with other fibres to reduce cost |
| SHOE FOLD |
A method of fabric
folding |
| SHOOT |
See Pick. |
| SHORN PILE |
Pile that is removed
when a specimen is sheared. |
| SHORT STAPLE SPINNING |
The use of cotton
spinning machinery |
| SHORT WOOLS |
Those wools which
average in length between 1 to 6 inches in staple length. |
| SHOT |
See Pick. |
| SHOT EFFECT |
Term used to describe
the effect created by using one colour in the warp and
a totally different colour in the weft. |
| SHOT TAFFETA |
One of the most
luxurious types of Taffeta |
| SHOTTING YARN |
A single weft yarn
used in weaving gunny sacking. |
| SHOULDER |
In zippers, the
bearing surface of an interlocking element by which the
chain is contained inside the flanges of the slider. |
| SHOULDER JOINT |
Garment-related
term. |
| SHOULDER LENGTH |
Garment-related
term |
| SHOULDER SLOPE |
Garment-related
term. |
| SHOWER CURTAIN |
A hanging fabric
used to prevent water spillage from a shower area. |
| SHOWER-PROOF |
A process by which
a garment is made resistant to light rain |
| SHOWER-PROOF FABRIC |
A base fabric of
cotton, or polyester and cotton, resembling cheesecloth
in appearance and sprayed on one side with latex to make
it shower-proof. |
| SHOWER-PROOF POLYESTER/COTTON |
Medium-weight fabric
with a shower-proof finish, usually in plain colours only. |
| SHOWER-PROOFED
CORDS |
See under Corduroy |
| SHRINK RESISTANT |
A fabric that has
been stabilised to shrinkage. |
| SHRINKAGE |
A dimensional change
of an object or material resulting in a decrease in one
or more dimensions i.e. the length or width of a specimen. |
| SHRINKAGE CONTROL |
Various processes,
either mechanical or chemical, are used to minimise shrinkage
of fabrics and garments |
| SHRINKAGE OF COTTON
FABRICS |
Relaxation shrinkage,
Washing shrinkage |
| SHRINKAGE OF WOOL
FABRIC |
Relaxation Shrinkage,
Milling or Felting Shrinkage |
| SHROPSHIRE |
A woollen fibre
type named after the county of Shropshire. |
| SHROUD LAID ROPE |
See under Rope. |
| SHUTTLE |
IN LOOM. A yarn
package carrier that is projected through the shed to
insert weft yarn during weaving. It carries sufficient
weft for several picks. |
| SHUTTLE BOX |
The compartment
at each end of the lay of the loom for retaining the shuttle
during beating-up. |
| SHUTTLE MARK |
Fabric defect.
Also called Box mark, Box stain |
| SHUTTLE RACE |
The shelf at the
base of the reed on which the shuttle is carried. |
| SHUTTLE SMASH |
Also called Box
mark. Defect, in woven fabric; major. |
| SHUTTLE TRAP MARK |
Fabric defect |
| SHUTTLELESS LOOM |
A loom in which
an alternative to the shuttle is used. |
| SHUTTLELESS WEAVING |
Weaving with a
shuttleless loom. |
| SI UNIT SYSTEM |
See International
unit system. |
| SICILIENNE |
First made in Sicily
as a coarse-weave lining fabric of mohair and cotton |
| SIDDO RAGS |
Also called Syddo
rags. |
| SIDE TO SIDE |
See Square Repeat |
| SIDE WITHDRAWAL |
The unwinding of
yarn from a package with the yarn roughly perpendicular
to the package axis. |
| SIDE-BY SIDE BICOMPONENT |
See under Bicomponent
fibres |
| SIDES |
See under Knitted
Loop |
| SIEVE |
In printing, the
part of a 'swimming-tub' which furnishes the block with
colour. |
| SIGHTING COLOUR |
See Fugitive tint. |
| SILENCE CLOTH |
A heavy, thick
cotton flannel fabric used as pad under tablecloths to
protect the table top and deaden noise. |
| SILESIA |
Lightweight cotton
twill fabric with a calendered glaze. |
| SILHICON |
A bast fibre obtained
from several pieces of Sida, in the Philippines. |
| SILHOUETTE |
A plain weave fabric
made with cotton warp and different coloured linen warp |
| SILICA FIBRES |
Commonly described
also as Ceramic fibres. |
| SILICATE COTTON |
See Slag wool. |
| SILK |
A natural fibre
unreeled from the cocoon of the silk worm. |
| SILK BURLAP |
Silk fabric of
linen weight, but feels light and drapes well |
| SILK FINISHED |
A finish employed
on sewing cottons to give them the smooth glossy appearance
of silk. |
| SILK JACQUARD |
Medium-weight,
luxurious, patterned, silk fabrics |
| SILK JERSEY |
Fine, lightweight
knitted fabric, often printed. |
| SILK LAP |
In warp knitting,
a lapping movement produced on a Milanese machine |
| SILK MOUSSELINE |
See Mousseline. |
| SILK NOIL |
The fibres extracted
during silk dressing or those that are too short for producing
spun silk |
| SILK NOIL FABRIC |
An attractive silk
fabric of dress or suit weight |
| SILK SATIN |
Very soft lustrous
fabric for luxury lingerie. |
| SILK SHANTUNG |
Medium weight silk
fabric woven with irregular yarns. |
| SILK THREAD |
A synonym for ply
in silk |
| SILK TWILL |
Soft twill weave
silk fabric without much body, usually printed. |
| SIMILI BINDING |
See under Binding. |
| SIMILI MERCERIZING |
A calendering process
for increasing lustre. |
| SIMPLE RANDOM SAMPLING |
Same as Random
sampling. |
| SIMPLEX FABRIC |
A reversible double-faced
fabric usually made on two needle bars of a bearded-needle
warp-knitting machine |
| SIMPLEX PRINTING |
Printing of one
side of the cloth only. |
| SIMPLEX WARP-KNITTING
MACHINE |
A double needle
bar machine using bearded needles mounted vertically or
nearly so, in which the fabric is supported and controlled
by sinkers. |
| SIMULTANEOUS CONTRAST |
An effect produced
when two colours are placed side by side |
| SIMULTANEOUS DRAW-TEXTURING |
See under Draw
texturing. |
| SINGEING |
The process of
burning loose fibre ends or fuzz from cotton yarns or
cloth by passing it over a flame or heated plates. |
| SINGLE BAR ATLAS
FABRIC |
Fabric. Also called
Vandyke fabric, Shadow stripe fabric. |
| SINGLE CANVAS |
Popular plain weave
cotton, or cotton and polyester, embroidery canvas of
fine construction |
| SINGLE HEAD LOOM |
A narrow-fabric
loom that weaves one piece only. |
| SINGLE JERSEY |
Made on knitting
machines with one row of needles producing a fabric that
is smooth and even on the right side, but uneven on the
under side. |
| SINGLE JERSEY (PLAIN
WEB) KNITTING MACHINE |
A machine, usually
circular, with a single set of needles |
| SINGLE JERSEY JACQUARD,
WEFT-KNITTED |
A patterned single-jersey
weft-knitted fabric, usually made from two or more yarns
of differing colour or texture to give a construction
that consists essentially of knitted and float loops,
but may incorporate tuck loops. |
| SINGLE JERSEY TUCK
JACQUARD, WEFT-KNITTED |
A patterned single-jersey
weft knitted fabric usually made from two or more yarns
differing in colour or texture in construction that consists
of knitted and tuck loops. |
| SINGLE KNIT |
Same as Single
jersey |
| SINGLE LIFT |
In weaving, a term
applied to lever dobbies and jacquard mechanisms in which
a single knife or griffe is used to effect a lift. |
| SINGLE MARL, WORSTED |
See under Worsted |
| SINGLE MOTTLE |
See under Worsted. |
| SINGLE PIQUÉ,
WEFT KNITTTED |
A non-jacquard
double jersey fabric made on an interlock basis using
a selection of knitted and tuck loops. |
| SINGLE SAMPLING |
In acceptance sampling,
a sampling plan for which the decision to accept or reject
a lot is based on a single sample. |
| SINGLE SATIN RIBBON |
A ribbon woven
from continuous filament yarns |
| SINGLE THREAD CHAIN
STITCH |
Stitch formed by
a single thread passed through the fabric by the needle
and looped by the previous stitch under the fabric. |
| SINGLE TWIST |
The amount of twist
in each individual single yarn element in a cord structure |
| SINGLE YARN |
A variety of yarn
in which the fibres are twisted in only one direction |
| SINGLE-BREASTED(S.B.) |
Style of coat with
minimum overlap |
| SINGLE-LEVEL PILE |
In floor coverings,
having all pile tufts at the same level. |
| SINGLES |
One strand of yarn,
not plied. A mass of fibres or number of filaments bound
together into coherent yarn. |
| SINGLING |
Process defect |
| SINKAGE |
Loss of mass in
wool cleansing, usually expressed as a percentage |
| SINKER |
In weaving, a link
in a pattern or boxchain |
| SINKERS |
In knitting, mechanisms
that assist needles in forming loops. |
| SINNET ROPE |
See Sennit rope. |
| SISAL |
Coarse vegetable
fibres manufactured from leaves. |
| SIVAL MACHINE |
See under Lace
machines. |
| SIX-BY-THREE RIB
FABRIC |
See under Rib fabric,
weft-knitted. |
| SIZE |
A generic term
for gelatinous film-forming substance, in solution or
dispersion normally applied on yarn or fabrics. |
| SIZE PENETRATION |
The degree to which
a size penetrates to the core of a yarn. |
| SIZE SHEDDING |
The removal of
size particles from the yarn during processing. |
| SIZING |
Also called Dressing. |
| SIZING SYSTEM |
Garment-related
term. |
| SKEIN |
A continuous strand
of yarn in the form of a flexible coil |
| SKEIN BREAK FACTOR |
The comparative
breaking load of a skein of yarn adjusted for the linear
density of the yarn expressed in an indirect system |
| SKEIN DYEING |
See Hank dyeing |
| SKETCH |
See separation |
| SKEWNESS |
Also called Bias,
Bias filling, Askewed. Fabric defect |
| SKIN BACKS |
See Broken filaments |
| SKIN WOOL |
See Pulled wool. |
| SKIP |
See Float. |
| SKIP DENT |
A dent in the reed
through which no warp yarn is drawn |
| SKIP DRAFT |
The passage of
the warp ends of a repeat through harnesses |
| SKIPPING |
Fabric defect |
| SKIRT |
That part of a
coat, dress or other garment, that hang below the waist. |
| SKITTERINESS |
An undesired speckled
effect |
| SLACK COURSE |
In weft knitting,
a course of knitting made with loops longer than normal |
| SLACK END |
Also called Slack
thread, Slack warp. Fabric defect. |
| SLACK FILLING |
See Slack pick. |
| SLACK MERCERIZATION |
Mercerising of
a fabric in absence of tension, or under reduced tension. |
| SLACK PICK |
Also called Loose
pick, Slack filling. Fabric defect. |
| SLACK SELVEDGE |
Also called Baggy
selvedge, Loose edge, Stringy selvedge, Wavy selvedge.
Fabric defect. |
| SLACK THREAD |
See Slack end. |
| SLACK WARP |
See Slack end. |
| SLACKS |
Trousers normally
used for leisurewear for men or women |
| SLAG WOOL |
A fibrous slag
produced by pouring molten slag, generally made from iron,
into a vessel fitted with a steam injector, which blows
the slag into the fibres. |
| SLAM-OFF |
Fabric defect,
in woven fabrics. |
| SLASHING |
IN WEAVING. The
application of size solution to yarns by immersion into
the solution and squeezing |
| SLAY |
See sley |
| SLEAZY FABRIC |
A thin, loosely
woven cheap fabric with limp texture |
| SLEEPERS |
Ends that have
been broken in warping and beaming operations and then
have been tangled and obscured by other ends. |
| SLEEVE |
That part of a
garment, which covers all, or part of the arm |
| SLEEVE CROWN |
The top section
of the sleeve head |
| SLEEVE HEAD |
The part of the
top sleeve which is joined to the scye. |
| SLEEVING |
Braided, knitted,
or woven fabric of cylindrical form having a width less
than 4 in. (100 mm) (circumference less than 8 in. (200
mm)) |
| SLEY |
Also called Slay. |
| SLEYING PLAN |
See Reeding plan. |
| SLICKER-FABRIC |
A common name for
textile fabrics which have been waterproofed by coating
the fabric with a waterproof film |
| SLIDE FASTENER |
See Zipper. |
| SLIDE WASTE |
A yarn defect identified
by its slub-like appearance. |
| SLIDER |
In zippers, the
part that opens a zipper |
| SLIP RESISTANT |
Fabric not prone
to weft slippage. |
| SLIPCOVER |
A removable, fitted
protective textile cover, often decorative and specifically
made for upholstered furniture. |
| SLIPE WOOL |
See Pulled wool. |
| SLIPPAGE |
The tendency of
fibres, filaments, yarn, or cloth to slip or slide when
manipulated. |
| SLIPPER SATIN |
Also called Jockey
satin. |
| SLIPS |
A low grade cotton
velvet fabric in which alternate floats are cut |
| SLIT FILM |
Yarn, produced
by slitting extruded film. |
| SLIVER |
A continuous strand
of loosely assembled fibres that is approximately uniform
in cross-sectional area and without twist. |
| SLIVER-KNITTED
FABRIC |
A single-jersey
fabric in which untwisted staple fibres are knitted in
at each loop to form a pile surface on the technical back
of the jersey structure. |
| SLOT SEAM |
A complex seam
formed on the inside of the object, having a decorative
seam underlay slightly visible from the face side, held
in place by two visible rows of stitching. |
| SLOUGH-OFF |
WINDING DEFECT.
Partial disintegration of a yarn package by the separation
of one constituent layer of yarn from another. |
| SLUB |
IN YARN. Also
called Bunch, Lump, Piecing, Slug. |
| SLUB SILK |
Fabric made from
silk yarns having nubs or balls of fibre at intervals. |
| SLUB YARNS |
A type of fancy
yarn |
| SLUBBY FILLING |
Fabric defect.
Thick, uneven places in filling yarn caused by uneven
yarn winding, poor carding, combing and/or spinning of
the fibres in the manufacture of the yarn. |
| SLUBBY WARP |
Fabric defect. |
| SLUFF-OFFS |
See Slough-off |
| SLUG |
YARN DEFECT. An
abruptly thickened place in a yarn, caused by inclusion
of fly or clearer waste along with regular fibres. |
| SMASH |
Also called Break
out. Fabric defect, major, in woven fabrics. |
| SMOCKING |
Firm, ornamental
and functional rows of stitching to hold fullness in place. |
| SMOOTH-DRYING |
See Easy-care. |
| SMOOTHNESS APPEARANCE |
In fabrics, the
visual impression of planarity of a specimen quantified |
| SMOULDERING |
The combustion
of a solid material without accompaniment of flame but
generally with the production of smoke. |
| SNAG |
A yarn or part
of a yarn pulled or plucked from the surface. |
| SNAGGING RESISTANCE |
In textile fabrics,
the resistance to the formation of snags. |
| SNAP ACTION |
The force required
to disengage a snap fastener |
| SNAP FASTENER |
A device for attaching
one material to another |
| SNAP FASTNERS |
Used as garment
closures. |
| SNARE |
Fabric defect.
Fabric shows tangled masses or clumps of roving or yarn
in a cloth |
| SNARL |
Yarn defect. |
| SNARL YARNS |
A type of fancy
yarn. |
| SNARLY YARN |
Also called Lively
yarn. |
| SNOW BALL |
See Fuzz ball. |
| SNOW CLOTH |
Term is used to
describe any heavy outdoor cloth |
| SOAPING |
Treating fabric
with a soap solution |
| SOFT FIBRE |
See Bast fibre. |
| SOFT FILLED |
A fabric made with
a low twist weft yarn. |
| SOFT GOODS |
A broad term for
textiles and textile products |
| SOFT LAID ROPE |
See under Rope. |
| SOFT TWIST |
A comparative term
for yarn, especially spun types having a relatively low
number of turns of twist per inch. |
| SOFT WARP |
Fabric defect. |
| SOFT WASTE |
Waste from slubbing,
roving, and wool tops. |
| SOFT WATER |
Water, which is
free from, dissolved mineral salts |
| SOFT WINDOW COVERINGS |
Curtains, draperies,
or other accessories on wall or window openings |
| SOIL |
Dirt, oil or other
substances, not normally intended to be present on a substrate
such as textile material. |
| SOIL AFFINITY |
The reduction in
reflectance between new and soiled fabrics. |
| SOIL REDEPOSITION |
The soiling of
clean or relatively clean fabric during the laundering
process by soil which has been removed from another fabric |
| SOIL RELEASE |
The degree to which
a soiled substrate approaches its original, unsoiled appearance
as a result of a care procedure. |
| SOILED ENDS |
Also called Dirty
ends. |
| SOILED FILLING |
Fabric defect,
major. Self-descriptive. |
| SOILING |
In textiles, a
process by which a textile substrate becomes more or less
uniformly covered with/or impregnated with soil. |
| SOISETTE |
Name given to a
fine cotton fabric made from mercerised yarns. |
| SOLAR SCREENING |
A woven fabric
made of coated fibreglass yarn |
| SOLEIL |
Name for a very
highly finished wool fabric woven in twill broken-rib
effect. |
| SOLID BRAID |
In rope, a braided
construction |
| SOLID COLOUR |
A fabric or yarn
entirely of one colour tone. |
| SOLID COLOUR, WORSTED |
See under Worsted. |
| SOLID WOVEN BELTING |
See under Belting |
| SOLUTION-DYEING |
See Mass-coloration. |
| SOLVENT METHOD |
See under Manufacture
of man-made fibres. |
| SOLVENT-SOLUBLE
SOIL |
The most commonly
found impurity in a dry cleaning solvent, e.g. oils and
greases. |
| SORPTION |
The process of
taking up or holding a material by adsorption, absorption,
or both. |
| SORTING |
Process of separating
material into different groups of comparable character
and quality, determined by some standards |
| SOUFFLÉ |
A French term used
for some fabrics with raised or puffed designs, e.g.,
matelasse. |
| SOURING |
An acid treatment
used in bleaching and laundering |
| SOUTACHE |
A narrow braid
used as ornamentation on garments |
| SOYBEAN FIBRE |
A protein-base,
man-made fibre derived from the soybean; resembles wool. |
| SPACE DYED YARN |
Yarn dyed in single
colour or multicolour spaces |
| SPAN LENGTH |
See under Fibre
length. |
| SPANDEX |
A manufactured
fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is a long chain
synthetic polymer comprised of at least 85% of a segmented
polyurethane. |
| SPANISH LACE |
all lace made
in Spain. |
| SPANISH STITCH |
A type of embroidery
composed of cross-stitches in rows on the right side of
the cloth and squares on the wrong side. |
| SPARTERIE |
Stiff fabric, used
in making hat bases as it can easily be shaped. |
| SPECIAL FINISHES |
A general term
for fabric finishes imparting special properties such
as water repellency, crease, stain and flame resistance. |
| SPECIAL TRISTIMULUS
VALUES |
See under Colour
measurement. |
| SPECIALITY YARNS |
Special effects
may be produced by using metallic or tinsel yarns, which
give a sheen or degree of ornamentation to the fabric. |
| SPECIFIC AREA |
In wool, the ratio
of the fibre surface to fibre volume. |
| SPECIFIC CLO |
The specific thermal
resistance to clo units per unit thickness |
| SPECIFIC FELT |
One of a number
of special purpose felt structures |
| SPECIFIC GRAVITY |
The ratio of the
mass of a material to the mass of an equal volume of water
at 4° C |
| SPECIFIC STRESS |
The ratio of force
to the linear density |
| SPECIFICATION |
A precise statement
of a set of requirements to be satisfied by a material,
product, system, or service |
| SPECIMEN |
A specific portion
of a material. |
| SPECKINESS |
In textile printing,
the quality or state of containing specks. |
| SPECKS |
Fabric defect. |
| SPECKY FABRIC |
Fabric defect.
Dyed fabric which shows small specks of undyed vegetable
matter on the face. |
| SPECTROPHOTOMETER |
An instrument for
measuring shade and intensity of colour. |
| SPECTROPHOTOMETRY |
A method of measuring
reflection factors of a colour, by comparing various wavelengths
and the intensity to a standard. |
| SPECULAR GLOSS |
Same as Gloss. |
| SPIDER SILK |
Silk filaments
spun by spiders. |
| SPIDER STITCH |
A stitch in lace
or netting in which the threads are arranged to resemble
a spider web. |
| SPIDER WEAVE |
A class of weave
that produces a net-like or distorted thread effect on
the face of fabric |
| SPIKING |
The use of spikes
fixed to one edge of a hinged table to facilitate the
even laying-up of fine fabrics. |
| SPIN DRY |
A process in laundering
whereby water is extracted by centrifugal force from the
laundered items. |
| SPIN-DRAWING |
A process for spinning
partially or highly oriented filaments |
| SPIN-STRETCH RATIO |
Also called Draw-down. |
| SPINDLE |
In the spinning
frame, the slender rod held in a vertical position for
twisting and holding the spun yarn dur-ing spinning |
| SPINNERET |
A nozzle with holes
or slits in it, |
| SPINNERS' DOUBLE |
Also called Married
yarn and Double ends |
| SPINNERS' WASTE |
Broken and tangled
threads and lengths of yarn left on bobbins and spinning
machinery |
| SPINNING |
The word 'Spinning'
is used to cover four distinctly different processes |
| SPINNING LIMIT |
The finest yarn
number that can be spun satisfactorily |
| SPINNING MILL |
A factory producing
yarn. |
| SPINNING PREPARATORY
STAGES |
See under Yarn
manufacture by spinning. |
| SPINNING QUALITY |
The ease with which
fibres lend themselves to yarn-manufacturing processes. |
| SPINNING SOLUTION |
Chemical solution
prepared for extrusion through a spinneret |
| SPINNING, DIRECT |
See Direct spinning |
| SPIRAL YARN |
Also called Eccentric
yarn. |
| SPIRALITY |
Fabric defect in
knitted fabric. |
| SPLASH YARN |
An elongated nub
that has been tightly twisted around a base yarn |
| SPLICE |
See Corkscrew yarn. |
| SPLICING |
Joining together
the ends of two yarns without tying |
| SPLIT |
See Dent. |
| SPLIT END |
See Dent. |
| SPLIT ENDS |
See Broken filaments. |
| SPLIT FIBRE |
See under Fibrillating
film. |
| SPLIT FILAMENTS |
See Broken filaments. |
| SPLIT STITCH |
See Broken filaments. |
| SPLIT STITCHES |
Fabric defect in
knitted fabric. |
| SPLIT YARN |
A yarn which appears
in the fabric as a thin yarn. |
| SPLITFUL |
The number of ends
in a reed. |
| SPLITTING RESISTANCE |
Of felt. The force
required to overcome the interfacial strength of a material |
| SPOKESTITCHING |
A decoration achieved
by drawing out parallel threads at the inner edge of a
hem |
| SPONGE WEAVE |
Any one of a variety
of weave arrangements that groups ends and picks together
in order to form a cellular structure |
| SPONGING |
A steam treatment
given to woollens and worsteds for a final shrinkage control |
| SPONTANEOUS CURING |
See Progressive
curing. |
| SPOOL |
IN SEWING MACHINE.
A small tube, with or without flanges |
| SPORT SHIRT |
FOR BOYS. A shirt
made in numerical sizes, designed for informal wear |
| SPORTS DENIM |
A lightweight denim
with a soft finish made in a variety of colours and patterns |
| SPOT |
Fabric defect. |
| SPOT AND CROSS
PAPER |
In garment manufacturing. |
| SPOT CLEAN |
See Stain removal. |
| SPOT REMOVAL |
See Stain removal. |
| SPOT RESISTANT |
Fabric, which has
been treated to resist stains. |
| SPOT STITCH |
An ornamental
decoration |
| SPOTTED COTTON |
Cotton that has
been changed in colour to a brown, écru, or yellow
cast by unfavourable weather, wet bolls, stems, leaves,
rainstorms. |
| SPOTTING |
In cleaning, the
application of solvent or solution to a material prior
to or after commercial scouring, laundering, or drycleaning |
| SPRAY BONDING |
A method of making
nonwoven fabrics in which droplets of adhesive are sprayed
on to the fibre web or batt. |
| SPRAY DYEING |
Application of
colorant to a substrate using a spray gun |
| SPRAY MARKING |
In garment manufacturing,
the method of outlining patterns prior to cutting by spraying
over the lay |
| SPRAY PRINTING |
Application of
dye to fabric with a compressed air spray gun for shade
effects. |
| SPREAD LOOP |
In weft knitting,
a needle loop expanded over two or more wales. |
| SPREAD STITCHES |
See Pinhole. |
| SPREADER |
IN LAYING UP.
A device for manipulating fabric to form the layers of
a lay. |
| SPREADING |
See Laying up |
| SPREADING DEFECTS
IN GARMENT |
See under Garment
defects, classified. |
| SPRING LAY ROPE |
See under Rope. |
| SPRING NEEDLE |
See under Needle. |
| SPUN POLYESTER |
Lightweight woven
or knitted fabrics that have a soft, warm feel. |
| SPUN RAYON |
Yarn or fabric
made from short lengths of rayon filaments which have
been twisted together |
| SPUN SILK |
This is a type
of silk yarn, although the fabric itself may be labelled
this way. |
| SPUN VISCOSE |
This is really
the name of a yarn, but fabrics also carry this title. |
| SPUN YARN |
A yarn made from
staple fibres as distinguished from the continuous filament
yarn |
| SPUN-BONDED |
Non-woven materials
in the form of sheets, tapes and laminates |
| SPUN-DYEING |
See Mass-colouration. |
| SPUNLACED FABRIC |
See Hydroentangled
fabric. |
| SPYNDLE NUMBER |
A direct yarn-numbering
system for jute rove and jute yarns |
| SQUARE CONSTRUCTION |
A fabric in which
the same yarn number and the same yarn density are used
in both directions. |
| SQUARE DESIGN PAPER |
In weaving, the
paper used for representing the interlacing of warp and
weft in a woven fabric. |
| SQUARE REPEAT |
The exact reproduction
of any unit print design |
| SQUARE WEAVE |
Weave in which
the number of risers is equal to the number of sinkers
in the repeat. |
| SQUEEGEE |
The device (usually
in the form of a blade) used to press the printpaste |
| ST. GALL LACE |
Machine-made imitation
of Venetian Lace |
| STABILITY TO THERMAL
OXIDATION |
That property of
a fabric which resists breaking under a specified tensile
strain |
| STABILIZATION |
A term usually
referring to fabrics in which the dimensions have been
set by a suitable preshrinking operation |
| STABILIZED YARN |
Yarn which has
been subjected to a heating and cooling or other setting
treatment, |
| STABLE FABRIC |
A textile fabric,
the dimensions of which do not change significantly with
multiple passes through measuring devices |
| STAGE TWISTING |
See Two-stage twisting |
| STAIN |
Fabric defect.
An area of discoloration that penetrates the fabric surface, |
| STAIN REMOVAL |
A cleaning procedure
for localised areas on textiles with cleaning agents and
mechanical action specific to the removal of the foreign
substances present. |
| STAINED COTTON |
Discoloured cotton
fibres. |
| STAND |
That part of a
collar, which joins the neck edge of the garment |
| STANDARD ATMOSPHERE
FOR PRECONDITIONING |
In the testing
of textiles, this is, an atmosphere having a relative
humidity of 5 to 25 % |
| STANDARD ATMOSPHERE
FOR TESTING |
An atmosphere for
testing in which the conditions for relative humidity
and temperature are specified and controlled. |
| STANDARD CONDITION |
The state of being
in moisture equilibrium with the standard atmosphere for
testing |
| STANDARD DEPTH
SCALE |
In colour measurement,
a series of dyed samples of different hue and chroma that
have been accepted to have the same depth. |
| STANDARD HAIRWEIGHT |
The hairweight
of cotton fibre divided by its maturity ratio. |
| STANDARD HWM FIBRES |
See under HWM modal
fibre. |
| STANDARD MOISTURE
REGAIN |
The amount of moisture
contained by a textile material when conditioned or brought
into equilibrium in standard atmosphere. |
| STANDARD PERFORMANCE
SPECIFICATIONS FOR FABRICS |
Specifications
that cover the evaluation of specific performance characteristics
of importance in fabrics, meant for various end uses |
| STAPLE |
The name given
to textile fibres of limited length. Fibres of finite
length, as opposed to a continuous filament. |
| STAPLE CRIMP |
In wool, (a) the
natural waves in a grease lock ( |
| STAPLE DENIER |
Diameter fineness
of staple rayon. |
| STAPLE FIBRE |
Man-made fibres
of pre-determined short lengths. |
| STAPLE GLASS YARN |
Yarn, made from
filaments that are nominally 8 to 15 in. (200 to 380 mm)
in length. |
| STAPLE LENGTH |
See under Fibre
length |
| STAPLE YARN |
Yarn, spun from
staple or short fibres. |
| STAPLED SEAM |
A seam formed by
shaped metal devices such as U-shaped staples. |
| STAR STEAMER |
A steamer in which
the printed cloth is wound round a star-shaped frame by
means of pins. |
| STARCH LUMP |
See Hard size. |
| STARCHLESS FINISH |
A durable finish
which lasts through several washings |
| STARFISH PROJECT |
It is the code-name
given by 'The International Institute for Cotton' in 1984,
to one of their extensive research program into the shrinkage
of knitted cotton fabrics |
| START-UP MARK |
Fabric defect.
Also called Stop mark, Stopping line. |
| STATEMENT |
In fully fashioned
knitting. A written program describing the events required
to knit a portion of a fully-fashioned garment sequentially. |
| STATIC ELECTRICITY
IN TEXTILES |
Static electricity
is created when two dissimilar substances are rubbed together
and then separated, |
| STATIC FRICTION |
Friction developed
between two touching bodies |
| STATION |
Fixing position
for each printing unit in a printing machine of any type. |
| STAY BINDING |
See under Binding. |
| STAY TAPE |
A narrow strip
of firm, plain woven, non-stretch fabric |
| STEAM CLEANING |
A term often used
in place of hot water extraction. |
| STEAM HEAT-SETTING |
See under Heat-setting. |
| STEAMER |
A machine used
in the process of steaming |
| STEAMING |
In textile dyeing
or printing, the treatment with moist steam to promote
penetration and/or fixation of the dye. |
| STEEL CORD |
A formed structure
made by twisting together two or more steel filaments
or steel strands |
| STEEL CORD WRAP |
A filament wound
helically around a steel cord. |
| STEEL FILAMENT |
The individual
element in a steel strand or cord. |
| STEEL STRAND |
A group of steel
filaments combined together to form a unit product. |
| STEEP TWILL |
A twill weave in
which the angle of the twill line is more than 45°. |
| STENCIL PRINT |
A type of resist
printing. |
| STENTER |
Also called Tenter |
| STENTER MARK |
See Clip mark. |
| STENTERING |
Same as Tentering.
A controlled straightening and stretching process of cloth
which has been pulled out of shape due to the many rough
finishing processes. |
| STEP-AND-REPEAT
PRINTING MACHINE |
A machine which
copies as many repeats as are required |
| STEP-HALF |
See Half-drop. |
| STEREO |
In printing, a
copy of cast |
| STICK-SLIP |
Alternate periods
of sticking and slipping of the surfaces in contact |
| STICKER |
Fabric defect.
A distortion in the weave characterised by tight and slack
places in the same warp yarns |
| STIFFENED COTTON
SEW-IN |
See under Sew-in
Woven interfacing. |
| STIFFNESS |
Resistance to deflection
or other distortion |
| STIPPLING |
In hand engraving
for printing, the tonal effects produced by punching small
dots on the copper cylinder with a series of small punches
and hammers |
| STITCH |
IN SEWN SEAMS.
The repeated unit formed by the sewing thread(s) in the
production of seams. |
| STITCH DENSITY |
In sewn seams,
the number of stitches per unit length in one row of stitching
in the seam. |
| STITCH GAUGE |
In sewn seams,
the perpendicular distance between adjacent parallel rows
of stitching. |
| STITCH HOLDING |
In weft knitting,
a method of shaping a knitted product by changing the
number of loops in individual wales by continuing to knit
on certain needles whilst knitting is stopped and the
stitches held on other needles for a given number of courses. |
| STITCH SHAPED CUT
GARMENT |
Stitch shaped cut
is a class of knitted garment derived from knitted blanks
(rectangles of knitted fabric). |
| STITCH SHAPING |
In weft knitting,
a garment shaped wholly or partially by change of stitch
length, |
| STITCH TRANSFERRING |
A method of shaping
a garment panel on a flat knitting machine |
| STITCH TYPE |
A numerical designation
relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing
of sewing thread(s) in a specified seam in sewn fabric. |
| STITCH-BONDED FABRIC |
Also called Sew-knit
Fabric. |
| STITCHED AND PINKED
SEAM-FINISH |
A finish for the
raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, in which
each raw seam allowance edge is machine stitched and then
cut to a zigzag raw edge. |
| STITCHED BASKET
WEAVE |
A basket weave
in which the length of floats is reduced to produce a
firm fabric. |
| STITCHED HOPSACK |
See under Hopsack. |
| STITCHED PLACE |
Fabric defect.
An area where the interlacing of the warp and weft threads
does not conform to the planned weave. |
| STITCHED SEAM |
See Sewn seam. |
| STITCHING |
A series of stitches
embodied in a material or materials of planar structure
such as woven textile fabrics |
| STITCHING JIG |
A device having
two rigid plates usually hinged together between which
fabric is clamped for stitching. |
| STITCHINGS |
Stitchings consist
of a sequence of stitches |
| STOCK DYEING |
Dyeing loose fibres
in bulk form |
| STOCK IN PROCESS |
In textile spinning,
staple fibres at any stage of manufacture |
| STOCKINETTE |
IN KNITS. A knitted
fabric made with a plain stitch or wool, cotton, man-made
fibres or combinations of these fibres, in tubular or
flat form. |
| STOLL ABRASION
TESTER |
Specialised machine
developed for testing the wear-life of fabrics |
| STOLLING |
A knitted strip
used as a facing, in which the wales run along the length |
| STONE WASH |
See under Enzymes. |
| STOP |
In zippers, the
device at the top and bottom of the chain or stringer |
| STOP MARK |
Also called Start-up
Mark. Fabric defect, may be major or minor |
| STOP MOTION |
A device which
stops the machine whenever a fault or a break occurs. |
| STOP, RELEASING |
See Bottom Releasing
Stop |
| STOPPING LINE |
See Start-up Mark. |
| STORAGE STABILITY |
The ability of
a sensitized fabric to remain sensitized without curing
itself spontaneously while being stored. |
| STOTING |
A hand stitch used
to draw together two cut edges of fabrics. |
| STOVING |
A process for bleaching
wool, silk, hair or other keratinous materials |
| STRAIGHT DRAFT |
The passage of
the warp ends of a repeat in sequence from the first to
the last harness |
| STRAIGHT KNIFE
CUTTING MACHINE |
A machine with
a vertical reciprocating blade used for cutting fabric
lays. |
| STRAIGHT LINE SYSTEM |
A garment production
system |
| STRAIGHT-BAR KNITTING
MACHINE |
A type of knitting
machine equipped with vertically disposed bearded needles
mounted in a bar. |
| STRAIN |
Deformation of
a material caused by the application of an external force. |
| STRAND |
A single fibre,
filament, or monofilament. |
| STRAND IRREGULARITY |
In textiles, variation
in a property along a strand. |
| STRAW |
A broad classification
of plant fibres obtained from stems, stalks, leaves, bark,
etc. |
| STRAW COTTON |
Cotton thread that
has been heavily sized with starch. |
| STRAYING END |
Fabric defect,
major, in warp knit fabric |
| STREAK |
An extended unintentional
stripe of narrow width, often a single yarn. |
| STREAK STITCH |
A stitch used to
produce open veins of leaves in handmade lace. |
| STREAKED WARP |
Fabric defect.
It occurs when one of the section of the warp, as it creeled
was not under proper tension or was of incorrect shade. |
| STRENGTH |
The property of
a material that resists deformation induced by external
forces. |
| STRENGTH COUNT
PRODUCT |
See Break Factor. |
| STRENGTH, AT BREAK |
See Breaking strength. |
| STRESS |
The resistance
to deformation developed within material subjected to
an external force. |
| STRETCH |
Elongation of
fibre, yarn or fabric by tension. |
| STRETCH FABRIC,
WOVEN |
See Woven Stretch
Fabric. |
| STRETCH FABRICS |
All knitted fabrics
and many woven fabrics with conventional yarns have small
but varying degree of stretch and elastic recovery. |
| STRETCH SPINNING |
A special method
of spinning rayon. |
| STRETCH TOWELLING |
Knit fabric with
short loop pile to give it a thin terry towelling appearance
on the right side. |
| STRETCH YARN |
A generic term
for thermoplastic filament or spun yarns |
| STRETCHED FILLING |
See Tight Pick. |
| STRIKE-OFF |
In printing, sample
prints made to prove the accuracy of print-screens/rollers. |
| STRING |
A small cord, larger
than thread and smaller than rope |
| STRING WARP MACHINE |
See under Lace
Machines. |
| STRINGER |
In zippers, the
tape, bead, and element assembly that constitutes one
side of a chain |
| STRINGY SELVEDGE |
See Slack Selvedge. |
| STRIP BACKS |
See Broken filaments. |
| STRIP TEST |
A method of measuring
the breaking strength of fabric |
| STRIPE |
A line or narrow
band in a fabric |
| STRIPE YARN |
A type of fancy
yarn. |
| STRIPINESS |
Defect in knitted
fabric. Lengthways areas, of several wales width, appearing
darker in colour from normal fabric |
| STRIPPING |
The removal of
colour from dyed textile with the use of chemicals. |
| STRONG WOOL |
Extra-long staple
wool from any wool clip |
| STRUCTURAL DESIGN |
See under Design |
| STRUSA |
See Frisons. |
| STT YARN |
See Self-twist
Twisted Yarn. |
| STUBBLE |
In shorn floor
covering, the portion of the pile that remains after shearing. |
| STUBBLE HEIGHT |
The distance the
stubble extends above the backing fabric. |
| STUD BREAKER |
See Breaking Machine. |
| STUFF |
An old eighteenth-century
word used to describe any fabric containing worsted yarns. |
| STUFFER YARN |
See Wadding yarn. |
| STUFFER-BOX TEXTURING |
See under Textured
Yarn. |
| STYLE |
A characteristic
mode of design, construction, texture, etc. |
| SUBLIMATION |
Undesirable transfer
of colour from synthetic fibres dyed with low molecular
weight disperse dyes |
| SUBLIMATION PRINTING |
A form of transfer
printing employing dyes |
| SUBSTANTIVE DYES |
See Direct Dyes. |
| SUBSTRATE |
In textiles, a
fibre, fibre assembly, yarn, fabric or film to which another
material is applied |
| SUEDE |
The correct term
is suede leather, because it is now usually calfskin treated
on the inside to give it a napped or sueded finish. |
| SUEDE FABRIC |
There is a wide
variety of simulated suede or suede fabrics. |
| SUINT |
Excretion from
sweat glands of sheep, which is deposited on wool fibres. |
| SUITING LACE |
Term used to describe
any type of firm lace |
| SULPHUR FIBRE |
A manufactured
fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is a long chain
synthetic polysulphide |
| SULPHURISING |
Bleaching wools
and silks by means of sulphur. |
| SUNFAST |
Dyed fabrics, which
do not change colour under normal exposure to sunlight
or under standard tests with the 'fade-o-meter'. T |
| SUNLIGHT RESISTANCE |
All fibres are
affected by prolonged exposure to sunlight in varying
degrees. |
| SUNN |
A bast fibre obtained
from the plant 'crotolaria juncea'. |
| SUNRAY PLEATS |
Pleats radiating
from a single point, usually the centre of full circular
skirts. |
| SUPER COP |
A wooden or plastic
conical base on which weft is wound for use in a shuttle
loom. |
| SUPER-DULL |
See under Delustred |
| SUPERFINE WOOL |
The finest, most
expensive wools for men's suiting and luxury knitwear. |
| SUPERWASH WOOL |
This label, attached
to wool fabrics, garments and hand knitting yarns, indicates
that the product will not shrink when machine washed as
instructed on the label. |
| SUPIMA |
Trade mark for
a superior type of high quality, extra-long-staple, Amercan-Egyptian
cotton |
| SUPPORTED NEEDLED
FELT |
A textile structure
(felt, needled, unsupported) |
| SUPPRESSION |
The creation of
shape by removal of a calculated amount of fabric |
| SURAH |
The name given
originally to a fine soft twill weave silk fabric used
for dresses, scarves and head squares in plain or printed
styles. |
| SURFACE CONTOUR |
The divergence
of a surface from planeness rough (high) to smooth (low). |
| SURFACE FRICTION |
Resistance to slipping
offered by surface harsh (high) to slippery (low). |
| SURFACE PRINTING |
A printing method
in which the pattern is raised in relief above the surface
of the printing device. |
| SURFACE ROLLER
PRINTING |
Rotary printing
from cylinders patterned in relief |
| SURFACE WATER ABSORPTION
BY FABRIC |
The process of
removing liquid water from a surface such as human skin,
dishes, or furniture. |
| SURFACE WEAVE |
By employing an
extra yarn, designs can be woven into cloth while the
basic fabric is being woven. |
| SURGICAL GAUZE |
A bleached and
sterilized cheesecloth used in surgery. |
| SUSPENDER WEB |
See Brace web. |
| SUSURRUS |
A rustling sound,
as of silk taffeta. |
| SUTURE LINE |
A line within weft
knitted fabric at which the wales are caused to change
direction collectively |
| SWAB |
A kind of mop,
especially a rope mop, that is used aboard ships. |
| SWADDLE |
A fabric used for
a bandage or band |
| SWANSDOWN |
Heavily napped
cotton fabric |
| SWATCH |
A bunch of collection
of sample cuttings of materials |
| SWEAL MARK |
See under Swealing. |
| SWEALING |
Migration of dye
into the angles of folds and creases during dyeing. |
| SWEATSHIRT FABRIC |
Acrylic or cotton
knit fabric with a bumpy fleecy back in a variety of plain
colours and striped designs. |
| SWEEPING WASTE |
The sweeping from
the floors of the various rooms in the mill. |
| SWELL RATIO |
Also called Bulge
Ratio. In man-made fibre extrusion, the ratio of the maximum
diamter of the extrudate as the solution of melt emerges
from the spinneret to the orifice diameter. |
| SWELLED EDGES |
An effect achieved
by a row of stitching, |
| SWIFT |
The revolving
frame onto which a hank is mounted when it is unwound. |
| SWIMMING-TUB |
In printing, a
wooden tub, half-filled with thickening or old dye-paste
to give resilience, over which is stretched a waterproof
covering and on which is resting the sieve - a drum stretched
over tightly with woollen cloth. |
| SWIMWEAR |
Textile garments
intended for wear in fresh, chlorinated, or salt water. |
| SWING NEEDLE MACHINE |
A sewing machine,
with a needle bar which alternates laterally during sewing
to produce a 'zigzag' stitch. |
| SWISS |
See Dotted Swiss. |
| SWISS BAR |
The middle guide
bar, in a lace furnishing machine, equipped with three
guide bars. |
| SWISS DOUBLE PIQUÉ |
See under Double
piqué |
| SWISS LACE |
A furnishing lace
obtained by contrasting two densities of clothing. |
| SWISS RIB |
See under Rib Fabric,
Weft-knitted. |
| SWISSING |
A calendering operation
for cotton fabrics which compresses fabric to produce
a smooth, compact appearance with moderate lustre |
| SWIVEL LOOM |
A loom for narrow
fabrics such as ribbons and tapes, the picking being done
by a special type of small shuttle controlled by a swivel |
| SWIVEL WEAVING |
A fabric in which
figure is achieved by the introduction of additional weft
threads into a base fabric to produce small clipped woven-in
spot effects. |
| SYDDO RAGS |
See Siddo rags |
| SYNTHESIZED FIBRES |
Fibres made from
chemicals that were never fibrous in character |
| SYNTHETIC FELT |
A non-woven fabric,
fairly thin but with an interesting texture |
| SYNTHETIC FIBRE |
Term used loosely
for all man-made fibres. |
| SYSTEMATIC SAMPLING |
The process of
selecting units in a sample in accordance with a specific
order or location in time or space or both. |
