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Home > Online Textile Dictionary

S
Word
Category
Short description
Description
SABLE fibers, filaments, yarns A dark brown luxury fur which is very hardwearing. A dark brown luxury fur which is very hardwearing.
SABLÉ GROUND fabrics A French term for a block-printed cloth which has tiny-pinned dots printed all over it before the printing of the main pattern. A French term for a block-printed cloth which has tiny-pinned dots printed all over it before the printing of the main pattern. Also called Sanded or Vermicular.
SACKING fabrics A general term applied to coarse fabrics, used mainly for making of bags or sacks. A general term applied to coarse fabrics, used mainly for making of bags or sacks. They are often made of jute, hemp, flax or polyolefin, and the number of threads per centimetre may vary from 2 to over 12. See also Bagging Fabric
SADDENING processes, operations A wool dyeing process in which the mordant is applied after, instead of before the dyestuff. A wool dyeing process in which the mordant is applied after, instead of before the dyestuff.
SADDLE SHOULDER garments, made-ups, assemblies The shape of the junction between the sleeve and the body of a garment The shape of the junction between the sleeve and the body of a garment where the line starts at the underarm, progresses as a set-in or raglan to a point approximately two thirds up the armhole, then changes to a line parallel to the shoulder itself. The sleeve head has a tongue projection to achieve this.
SAFETY STITCH seams, stitches Stitch formed by an over-edge stitch, reinforced by a chain stitch (or sometimes lockstitch), further in from the fabric edge. Stitch formed by an over-edge stitch, reinforced by a chain stitch (or sometimes lockstitch), further in from the fabric edge.
SAILCLOTH fabrics Firm ribbed fabric made from cotton, rayon usually, or polyester and cotton Firm ribbed fabric made from cotton, rayon usually, or polyester and cotton. In plain colours in plain or basket weave, Coarser and more heavily ribbed than poplin but not as prominently ribbed as repp. Sailcloth is made in heavier weights than poplin and is used for dresses, blouses, children's clothes, leisure wear, trousers and men's summer jackets according to weight. It is usually resin finished and is stiff and hardwearing. Drape and pleats well but crease easily.
SALISBURY fabrics Popular white English flannel; made of woollen yarn. Popular white English flannel; made of woollen yarn. It comes in varying weights.
SALT AND PEPPER fabrics Fabric made of black and white ply yarns Fabric made of black and white ply yarns. Typical fabrics are tweed and homespun. See also Pepper and Salt
SALT SENSITIVITY ¡ I IN DYEING. The extent to which the dyeing properties (especially on cellulosic fibres) of a dye are af-fected, by the addition of a neutral electrolyte to the dyebath. 1. IN DYEING. The extent to which the dyeing properties (especially on cellulosic fibres) of a dye are af-fected, by the addition of a neutral electrolyte to the dyebath.
2. IN DYED FABRIC. The susceptibility of coloured material to change in colour when spotted with aqueous solution of neutral electrolytes.
SAMITE fibers, filaments, yarns See Xamitum. See Xamitum.
SAMPLE general A portion of a lot of material which is taken for testing or for record purposes. 1. A portion of a lot of material which is taken for testing or for record purposes.
2. A group of specimens used, or observations made, which provide information that can be used for mak-ing statistical inferences about the population(s) from which they were drawn.
See also Lot sample, Laboratory sample, and Specimen.
SAMPLING PLAN general A procedure for obtaining a sample A procedure for obtaining a sample
SAMPLING UNIT general An identifiable, discrete unit or sub-unit of material that could be taken as part of a sample. An identifiable, discrete unit or sub-unit of material that could be taken as part of a sample.
SAND CRÊPE fabrics A fabric with an irregular surface texture made from silk or man-made fibres. A fabric with an irregular surface texture made from silk or man-made fibres. It is heavier than 'crêpe de chine'. The fabric is finished with the appearance of sand.
SAND ROLLER MARKS defects Fabric defect. Fabric defect. These marks run in the weft direction and may be caused by uneven tension and 'pull' on the cloth as it winds around the sand roller on the loom. Irregular tension between the sand roller and the cloth roller also causes these marks
SANDED fabrics See Sablé ground. See Sablé ground.
SANDFLY NET fabrics See Bobbin net See Bobbin net
SANDWICH BLENDING processes, operations Mixing fibres from different package lots, units, or of different characteristics Mixing fibres from different package lots, units, or of different characteristics by spreading them in two or more horizontal layers with all elements in the proper proportion when vertical sections are cut. Sections are fed to the appropriate yarn-making machine.
SANDWICH-PLATED FABRIC fabrics See under Plated fabric. See under Plated fabric.
SANFORIZE PUCKER defects Fabric defect, may be major or minor. Fabric defect, may be major or minor. Resulting from uneven wetting out on the sanforizor, usually defective spray heads. The fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on the cutting table.
SANFORIZED fabrics The trademark of a controlled mechanical shrinking process applied to cottons and other fabrics liable to be washed a great deal. The trademark of a controlled mechanical shrinking process applied to cottons and other fabrics liable to be washed a great deal. Fabrics are shrunk by compressive shrinkage process. Sanforized fabric can be controlled to shrink not more than 1 % in laundering. Used mainly on shirt fabrics.
SANFORIZED COTTON SEW-IN accessories See under Sew-in woven interfacing. See under Sew-in woven interfacing.
SANFORIZING MARK defects Fabric defect. Also called Blanket mark. Fabric defect. Also called Blanket mark. A crimped, rippled, wavy, pebbled, or cockled place in the cloth showing distortion of the texture.
SANITIZED fabrics A germicidal or bacteriostatic finish applied to fabric, plastic and other materials. A germicidal or bacteriostatic finish applied to fabric, plastic and other materials.
SANSEVIERIA fabrics A fibre obtained from the leaves of various species of plants of the genus 'Sansevieria'. A fibre obtained from the leaves of various species of plants of the genus 'Sansevieria'.
SAPONIFIED ACETATE RAYON fibers, filaments, yarns A high-tenacity acetate rayon, which is insoluble in acetone and is dyed like viscose rayon. A high-tenacity acetate rayon, which is insoluble in acetone and is dyed like viscose rayon.
SAPONIFIED CELLULOSE ACETATE fibers, filaments, yarns The saponified cellulose acetate filaments are made by heating cellulose acetate filament yarns in steam and stretching the softened yarn by 4 to 10 times its original length. The saponified cellulose acetate filaments are made by heating cellulose acetate filament yarns in steam and stretching the softened yarn by 4 to 10 times its original length. The stretched yarn is wound onto perforated bobbins and saponified by treatment with caustic soda solution. The resultant yarn of very fine filaments of regenerated highly oriented cellulose is then washed, oiled, dried and rewound. Very high ratio of strength to volume and excellent dimensional stability.
SARAN fibers, filaments, yarns A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 80 % by weight of vinylidene chloride units. A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 80 % by weight of vinylidene chloride units.
It is a very strong fibre resisting dirt, chemicals, sunlight, etc. Used mainly for upholstery on public trans-port.
SARI fabrics, garments, made-ups, assemblies Also spelled 'saree'
A term applied to the fabric woven especially for saris.
Also spelled 'saree'
1. A term applied to the fabric woven especially for saris.
2. Sari is one of the best surviving examples of the ancient, purely draped women's costume of the warm climates in which the garment is constructed entirely by draping-without cutting. Saris are woven of fine cottons, silks or even man-made fibres. They may be of printed or plain designs and are often decorated with metal threads on borders and ends. It can be worn in different ways. The pieces can be from 3.5 m. to 5 m. long depending on the style of draping. Now, fine expensive saris are hand-woven or machine-made in cotton or silk, while the less expensive saris are cut from long pieces.
SARILLE fibers, filaments, yarns Trade name of a soft cellulose fibre, developed from viscose and used to produce warm fabrics. Trade name of a soft cellulose fibre, developed from viscose and used to produce warm fabrics. Mainly used in dress fabrics, household textiles such as blankets, and often mixed with other fibres, such as wool, to reduce the cost
SARONG garments, made-ups, assemblies A draped costume consisting of a piece of fabric woven 5 m. to 7 m. long, usually of cotton, sometimes silk. A draped costume consisting of a piece of fabric woven 5 m. to 7 m. long, usually of cotton, sometimes silk. Usually printed by the batik, block or warp print method or sometimes with woven design. Often made with fancy borders.
SARSNET RIBBON accessories A ribbon constructed entirely in plain weave of very fine warp and weft and with high density, the weft density being higher than that of the warp. A ribbon constructed entirely in plain weave of very fine warp and weft and with high density, the weft density being higher than that of the warp. A true sarsnet is made wholly of silk
SARSONET fabrics Originally a fine Arabian fabric of silk, it is now a net or veiling fabric in millinery Originally a fine Arabian fabric of silk, it is now a net or veiling fabric in millinery. Made from silk, nylon, or polyester.
SATEEN fabrics In pure sateen weaves, the surface of the cloth consists almost entirely of weft floats. Sateen is manufactured in many different types and weights. The standard curtain lining fabric is a good example of this type of fabric, made from cotton and given a schreiner finish to produce lustre.
Most commonly used for linings. According to quality it is used as curtain lining or curtain fabric. Used for costumes for the stage and fancy dress. Soft and drapes well. It does not wear particularly well; seams tend to pull and crack-marks appear where hems are pressed. It is not often used as a dress fabric for these rea-sons.
Regarded as a cheaper version of the satin. Sateen weave produces a weft-faced fabric by reversing the satin weave. However it is not a straightforward reversing of a satin weave because the fabric construction differs in that the weft yarns are more numerous and more closely set than the warp yarns here in order to give the necessary compactness of surface. The diagram shows a 5-thread sateen structure.
In pure sateen weaves, the surface of the cloth consists almost entirely of weft floats. Sateen is manufactured in many different types and weights. The standard curtain lining fabric is a good example of this type of fabric, made from cotton and given a schreiner finish to produce lustre.
Most commonly used for linings. According to quality it is used as curtain lining or curtain fabric. Used for costumes for the stage and fancy dress. Soft and drapes well. It does not wear particularly well; seams tend to pull and crack-marks appear where hems are pressed. It is not often used as a dress fabric for these rea-sons.
SATEEN FINISH fabrics A highly lustrous finish with a fairly crisp hand applied to certain cotton fabrics to imitate satin fabrics. A highly lustrous finish with a fairly crisp hand applied to certain cotton fabrics to imitate satin fabrics.
SATIN fabrics Fabric, that is very smooth and has lustrous face on the right side (although sometimes both sides are satin weave). Fabric, that is very smooth and has lustrous face on the right side (although sometimes both sides are satin weave). It originated as a woven silk fabric and its effect depends on a special construction. The smoothness is produced by a special satin weave which has long 'floats' of warp over weft. The warp is very closely set and there are usually at least twice as many warp yarns per cm than weft. This gives a close compact face predominantly warp. The interlacings of warp with weft should be completely hidden giving the fabric an apparently smooth featureless surface. See diagrams '5-thread satin' and '8-thread satin' under Satin weave. The back of the fabric is comparatively dull in contrast.
Satin-weave fabrics are made from all yarns, including silk, acetate, nylon, viscose, polyester, cotton Many different types and weights of satin are made for a wide variety of dress and lining use.
Duchesse satin: Very smooth rather stiff-handling satin, heavier in weight than the average dress satin, made with a very fine warp in an 8-thread satin weave which may be silk, but is more likely to be viscose (see diagram under 'satin weave'), usually with a non-lustrous fairly thick weft to give the requisite firm-ness. Used mainly for wedding-gowns and evening dresses.
Double satin: Very expensive fine fabric made as the name suggests with a double satin weave so that both sides are lustrous - and may be different colours - and the weft is completely hidden.
Crêpe satin: This features hard twisted weft yarns in alternate 'S' and 'Z' twist which cause a crinkling of the smooth surface giving a more subdued lustre.
The satin weave is used in cotton and wool fabrics also, not primarily for lustre purpose but to produce a smooth surface, which can be suitably enhanced by finishing processes. See Drill and Doeskin.
A satin type fabric is also produced by warp knitting by using long guide bar laps which gives the technical back of the fabric a smooth surface which is used as the face side for dress fabrics, often printed. The fabric surface is not so smooth and compact as the woven satin
SATIN DRILL fabrics A drill fabric made with a five-end satin weave A drill fabric made with a five-end satin weave
SATIN FINISH fabrics A smooth lustrous finish, which may be applied to several fabrics. A smooth lustrous finish, which may be applied to several fabrics. The satin weave is not necessarily employed.
SATIN STITCH seams, stitches Embroidery done in close parallel lines (stitches) over a printed design Embroidery done in close parallel lines (stitches) over a printed design. Characterised by a satiny surface. May or may not be padded; if it is, called a 'raised satin stitch'; if not, a 'flat satin stitch'.
SATIN STRIPE fabrics Fabric of almost any fibre, including cotton, that has a satin-weave shiny stripe alternating with contrasting stripe of a different weave of thickness of yarn, even of a different colour Fabric of almost any fibre, including cotton, that has a satin-weave shiny stripe alternating with contrasting stripe of a different weave of thickness of yarn, even of a different colour
SATIN STRIPES fabrics A stripe in fabric formed by a satin weave. A stripe in fabric formed by a satin weave.
SATIN WEAVE fabrics One of the three basic types of weave, the other two being Plain and Twill. One of the three basic types of weave, the other two being Plain and Twill.
Satin weaves are a group of structures designed to produce a smooth fabric surface without twill markings. The word satin creates a mental picture of a smooth lustrous fabric
In the diagram of a 5-thread satin weave, shown above, it will be seen that the face of the fabric is predomi-nantly warp and each warp yarn passes over four weft yarns and under one. The interlacings do not form a rigid twill line; the warp yarns are set almost twice as closely as the weft yarns so that as the surface closes up the single weft interlacings are hidden between the warp floats in each side of them. This gives the illu-sion of a solid unbroken surface if the structure is correctly set, but creates a one-sided fabric in that the re-verse side is coarser in texture, and not smooth. Larger weaves give a smoother surface by enabling the weft interlacings to be hidden more efficiently but tend to produce loose fabrics unless the setting is very fine
In the 8-thread version, shown above, the basic interlacing is 7 and 1. This is used only in more expensive fine fabrics because it would produce a very loose structure in a cheaper setting.
These weaves are used extensively with filament yarns to obtain maximum lustre and smoothness. The long 'floats' of the interlacings expose the filaments to damage in making-up and wear. Satins are not very dura-ble if subjected to much abrasion, unless made from very strong synthetic fibres, and cheap satins, which usually lack closeness, are subject to yarn slippage and 'cracking' of fabric
The 'sateen weave' produces a weft-faced fabric. See Sateen
SATIN, KNITTED fabrics A two-bar warp-knitted fabric in which the front-bar underlaps are arranged with a view to producing a smooth surface. A two-bar warp-knitted fabric in which the front-bar underlaps are arranged with a view to producing a smooth surface.
SATIN-BACK fabrics Any fabric of any fibre where the reverse side is of satin weave. Any fabric of any fibre where the reverse side is of satin weave. See Satin.
SATIN-BACK CRÊPE fabrics See Satin-back crêpe. See Satin-back crêpe.
SATINET WEAVE fabrics See Satinett. See Satinett.
SATINETT fabrics A four-end irregular satin or sateen weave. A four-end irregular satin or sateen weave.
SATURATION BONDING processes, operations A method of making nonwoven fabrics A method of making nonwoven fabrics in which the fibre web or batt is treated by overall application of an adhesive in liquid form. See also Adhesive bonded Non-woven fabric.
SATURATION REGAIN fibers, filaments, yarns The moisture in a material at 95 to 100 % relative humidity. The moisture in a material at 95 to 100 % relative humidity.
SATURATION VALUE processes, operations The maximum quantity of a dye which can be absorbed by a substrate under defined conditions. The maximum quantity of a dye which can be absorbed by a substrate under defined conditions.
SAWDUST CRÊPE fabrics A type of rayon fabric made in a crêpe construction with a harsher hand than sand crêpe. A type of rayon fabric made in a crêpe construction with a harsher hand than sand crêpe.
SAXONY fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics FIBRE. The high grade Class One wool of the merino wool group. 1. FIBRE. The high grade Class One wool of the merino wool group.
2. YARN. A high grade, finely twisted knitting yarn used in the better type of fabrics.
3. FABRIC. A soft feeling, well finished flannel made from Saxony wool. Originally made in the province of Saxony, Germany, the name has come to be used to describe any soft, plain weave woollen or worsted cloth with a slight nap. High-grade yarns are used so the term always implies a good quality cloth. It may be plain or in small checks.
SAXONY FINISH fabrics A finish generally applied to woollen fabric; the cloth is fulled, stretched, napped, shorn short and then brushed and pressed. A finish generally applied to woollen fabric; the cloth is fulled, stretched, napped, shorn short and then brushed and pressed.
SCAFFOLDING YARN fabrics That component of a plied yarn that is used to support a weaker component through further processing until it is satisfactorily introduced into a fabric. That component of a plied yarn that is used to support a weaker component through further processing until it is satisfactorily introduced into a fabric. The scaffolding yarn may then be removed by solvent or other chemical action or, alternatively, be retained in the fabric to make it more durable.
SCALE LINES apparatus, equipage, tools In engraved printing-roller work In engraved printing-roller work, in order to print a flat area of solid colour, the shape (after outlining) must be filled in with a series of parallel lines set an angle of between 22½° and 30°; the number of these to the inch constitutes the scale.
SCALES fibers, filaments, yarns The overlapping horny cell components which make up the outside surface of the wool fibre. The overlapping horny cell components which make up the outside surface of the wool fibre. They permit felting.
SCALLOP fabrics, defects Curves or indentations along the edge of a fabric. 1. Curves or indentations along the edge of a fabric.
2. Fabric defect. The edges of a fabric exhibiting approximately sinusoidal waveforms of short lengths in the plane of the fabric. The defect usually appears in a fabric which has been stretched excessively width-ways during stentering
SCALLOPED SELVEDGE defects Also called Misclip, Off-dip. Fabric defect. Also called Misclip, Off-dip. Fabric defect. An abrupt, narrow indentation in the selvedge of the cloth, caused due to clip on stenter frame failing to attach itself onto, or hold fabric selvedge. An irregular cloth edge similar in appearance to that of a scallop shell.
SCARF garments, made-ups, assemblies A square piece of cloth worn for warmth or as a decorative apparel item. A square piece of cloth worn for warmth or as a decorative apparel item.
SCHAPPE SILK fabrics A type of silk from which the gum has been removed by fermentation. A type of silk from which the gum has been removed by fermentation. The fabric produced and called by this name is similar to Spun silk
SCHAPPING processes, operations A method of degumming applied to silk waste, which removes part of the gum by a fermentation process. A method of degumming applied to silk waste, which removes part of the gum by a fermentation process. Up to 90 % of gum may be removed from the fibre.
SCHIFFLI LACE fabrics Name originates from the machine itself. Name originates from the machine itself. Embroidery done in a Schiffli loom-like machine, equipped with many needles and boat-shaped shuttles. It produces various effects on lightweight fabrics.
SCHIFFLI MACHINE apparatus, equipage, tools An embroidery machine An embroidery machine consisting of a multiplicity of lockstitch sewing elements working on a basic net or fabric that is attached to a frame movable vertically and horizontally according to the requirements of the pattern
SCHREINER processes, operations, apparatus, equipage, tools A finish for enhancing the lustre of the fabric, obtained by passing it through a schreiner calender. 1. Description of a calender with two or three bowls in which one ( the middle one in a three-bowl calender) is of highly polished steel engraved with very fine parallel lines (grooves) running at an angle of approxi-mately 20° to either the horizontal or the vertical.
2. The term is sometimes used for the engraved bowl of a schreiner calender. The engraved bowl is heated, usually to 60-120° C for finishing cotton fabrics,
3. A finish for enhancing the lustre of the fabric, obtained by passing it through a schreiner calender. Opti-mum effects are obtained when the lines are slightly cross the direction of the surface yarn twist.
SCHREINERING processes, operations A fabric finishing process which smoothen the right side, often impressing a pattern at the same time. A fabric finishing process which smoothen the right side, often impressing a pattern at the same time. Schreinering is produced using a special schreiner calender. It has a metal cylinder that has a series of fine lines, from 250 to 350 per inch (100 to 140/cm), engraved so that they form an angle of roughly 26° to the construction of the cloth. The angle is usually such that the lines are parallel to the twist in the yarns. The fabric is fed between the large cylinder with the engraved lines and a smaller cylinder that is heated. The finish produces a soft, silk-like lustre and is frequently used on cellulose fibres such as cotton and linen. The cylinders flatten the yarns and create a smooth and compact fabric. This process is also used in tricot knits to produce lingerie fabrics that are soft and opaque
SCOOP accessories Deprecated term. Deprecated term. See Element.
SCOTCH BEAMING processes, operations See Dry taping under Scotch dressing. See Dry taping under Scotch dressing.
SCOTCH BLACKFACE fibers, filaments, yarns A well-known breed of sheep, which produces much long carpet wool. A well-known breed of sheep, which produces much long carpet wool. The fibres are very strong, rugged, stand the rigours of weather very well and ideal for use as 'filling fibre' in the manufacture of rugs and carpets.
SCOTCH CARPET garments, made-ups, assemblies See under Ingrain carpet. See under Ingrain carpet.
SCOTCH DRESSING processes, operations Dry taping: Also called Scotch beaming. Dry taping: Also called Scotch beaming. A method of preparing striped warps for weaving, suitable for use when long lengths of any one pattern are to be woven. The preparation is carried out in three operational steps.
Dresser sizing: Also called Scotch warp dressing. A method of warp preparation, used particularly in the linen industry, which incorporates sizing.
See also Dressing
SCOTCH FINISH fabrics A term applied to heavy woollens finished with a closely shorn nap. A term applied to heavy woollens finished with a closely shorn nap.
SCOTCH TWEED fabrics Woollen tweed made in twill weave using a white warp and brightly coloured weft yarns. Woollen tweed made in twill weave using a white warp and brightly coloured weft yarns. It has a tough, shaggy appearance, and is made in various weights for suits and overcoats.
SCOTCH WARP DRESSING processes, operations See Dresser sizing under Scotch dressing. See Dresser sizing under Scotch dressing.
SCOTCHGUARD fabrics A registered shower-proof finish applied to some fabrics A registered shower-proof finish applied to some fabrics
SCOURED WOOL fibers, filaments, yarns Wool, from which the bulk of impurities have been removed by an aqueous or solvent washing process. Wool, from which the bulk of impurities have been removed by an aqueous or solvent washing process.
SCOURING processes, operations The cleaning of raw stock, yarn or cloth to remove various impurities as oils, fats, waxes, soluble impurities and any adhering particulate of solid dirt. The cleaning of raw stock, yarn or cloth to remove various impurities as oils, fats, waxes, soluble impurities and any adhering particulate of solid dirt. The process consists essentially of treatment with a detergent, with or without the addition of an alkali or by treatment with solvents and chemicals. Scouring is almost invariably the first wet process applied to textile materials.
SCRATCH FELT fabrics Cheap quality woollen fabric made to resemble camel cloth. Cheap quality woollen fabric made to resemble camel cloth. Poor wearing qualities.
SCRAY apparatus, equipage, tools A 'J' shaped container in which piece goods may be accumulated in folds or pleats. A 'J' shaped container in which piece goods may be accumulated in folds or pleats. Generally used in dry finishing or inspection to compensate the flow of cloth to varying speeds.
SCREEN ENGRAVING processes, operations The production of the open and in-filled pattern areas on the print-screen surface The production of the open and in-filled pattern areas on the print-screen surface; the traditional term is still used, although engraving is in no way involved.
SCREEN PRINTING processes, operations A stencil-like method of printing, using a screen of fine mesh cloth. A stencil-like method of printing, using a screen of fine mesh cloth. Areas to remain uncoloured, are treated with a film which prevents colour passage. Colour paste is forced through the untreated potions of the screen onto the fabric underneath. The screen may then be moved ahead to a repeat. Separate screen is used for each different colour in a design. There are mainly two types of screen printing methods:
Flat bed screen printing: Colour is squeezed through a flat screen manually or automatically. Also called 'automatic screen printing'.
Roller screen printing: A roller metal screen is used. Rollers are arranged horizontally, vertically and cen-trally.
SCRIM fabrics Loosely woven cloth in cotton yarn, similar to voile but a poorer quality fabric. Loosely woven cloth in cotton yarn, similar to voile but a poorer quality fabric. It is very similar to cheesecloth. Normally used only for backing other fabrics such as fur.
SCRIMP defects Printing defect, major. Printing defect, major. The result of the fabric being folded or creased when passing through the print machine. There will be areas not printed.
SCRIMP ROLLER apparatus, equipage, tools Also called Scroll roller. Also called Scroll roller. Rollers or bars (rails) characterised by grooves or projections inclined at equal and opposite angles to the centre line on each half and used for removing folds or creases during finishing operations.
SCRIMPS defects A wrinkle in a cloth caused by excessive strain, tension or pressure on a fabric. 1. A wrinkle in a cloth caused by excessive strain, tension or pressure on a fabric.
2. A printing defect identified by areas of fabric that are unprinted. May be due to creasing of the fabric as it passes through the printing area.
SCROLL GIMP fabrics A woven figured narrow fabric having two series of wefts and a warp. A woven figured narrow fabric having two series of wefts and a warp. Each series consists of three gimp cords laid flat. The ground series projects at one edge to form a triple loop; the figure series passes through the warp and returns over the warp alternately to form a loose scroll on the surface. The overall width of the fabric, which is in plain weave, is about 16 mm
SCROLL ROLLER apparatus, equipage, tools See Scrimp roller See Scrimp roller
SCROOP fabrics The rustling sound associated with silk, which is heard when fabric is compressed, rubbed together or with body movement when worn. The rustling sound associated with silk, which is heard when fabric is compressed, rubbed together or with body movement when worn. It is not a natural property, but is imparted during finishing by treatment with certain acids. Some man-made materials also may be given this finish.
SCULPTURED PILE garments, made-ups, assemblies See under Pile in carpet See under Pile in carpet
SCULPTURED RUG garments, made-ups, assemblies A floor covering with Jacquard designs, in different heights of pile. A floor covering with Jacquard designs, in different heights of pile.
SCUTCHER apparatus, equipage, tools A machine which breaks and opens up fibres. 1. A machine which breaks and opens up fibres.
2.A finishing machine that whirls against the fabric in such a way and speed, so as to spread the cloth in full width.
SCUTCHING processes, operations IN COTTON FIBRE. An operation in which cotton is opened mechanically and cleaned and formed into a continuous lap. 1. IN COTTON FIBRE. An operation in which cotton is opened mechanically and cleaned and formed into a continuous lap.
2. IN FLAX FIBRE. The operation of separating the woody part of deseeded or retted flax straw from the fibre. See also Retting.
3. IN ANY FABRIC. Opening up of fabric to its full width. This takes place after the fabric has been allowed to close in on itself to 'rope' form. See Scutching
SCYE garments, made-ups, assemblies The armhole of a garment The armhole of a garment
SCYE DEPTH garments, made-ups, assemblies Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system.
SEA ISLAND COTTON fibers, filaments, yarns A type of extra long staple cotton fibre. A type of extra long staple cotton fibre. Average fibre length 51 mm. The best quality cotton fibre and yarn in the world. The fibre is long, soft, lustrous, and smooth and made into top quality cotton fabrics both plain and printed. Production is limited, so it is a very expensive yarn.
SEA SILK fibers, filaments, yarns Strong lustrous fibres yielded by certain algae. Strong lustrous fibres yielded by certain algae.
SEAL fibers, filaments, yarns Shiny and flat hair with coarse texture Shiny and flat hair with coarse texture; not hardwearing. Black or grey in colour.
SEALSKIN fibers, filaments, yarns Fur, of the Alaskan seal, usually dyed black or brown. Fur, of the Alaskan seal, usually dyed black or brown. Is very hardwearing. Often used for handbags.
SEAM seams, stitches Also called Joining line. A line where two or more fabrics are joined, usually near the edge. Also called Joining line. A line where two or more fabrics are joined, usually near the edge. The term seam is used to describe the composite result of fabric being stitched. Materials used may include fabric, fur, leather and plastic film. Joining methods for seams may vary. Taken into account are the relationship between the stitching and the edges of the fabric(s), the particular folding of the fabric, the entry location of the needle in stitching, and the positions of looper and seam covering threads.
See also Sewn seam, Glued seam, Stapled seam, Thermally-bonded seam.
SEAM ALLOWANCE seams, stitches Also called Seam margin. Also called Seam margin. In sewn fabrics, the distance from the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that edge, i.e. a pre-determined amount of material between the edge of the component parts of the garment and the seam line. Many commercial patterns specify seam allowances which may vary usually between 1 mm to 20 mm depending upon the pattern. Seam allowances may be trimmed during or after seam construction.
SEAM ASSEMBLY seams, stitches The composite structure obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam The composite structure obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam
SEAM BASTING seams, stitches A temporary sewing together of two parts of a garment. A temporary sewing together of two parts of a garment.
SEAM BINDING accessories A straight tape used for finishing the edges of hems and seams A straight tape used for finishing the edges of hems and seams
SEAM BUSTING seams, stitches Pressing open seams, often carried out as an intermediate operation during garment assembly. Pressing open seams, often carried out as an intermediate operation during garment assembly. Same as Seam opening
SEAM DAMAGE defects Sewing defect Sewing defect. An adverse change in the physical condition of one or more of the components in a seam which would reduce the seam efficiency and seam acceptability such as yarn slippage, needle damage, or fabric rupture.
SEAM EFFICIENCY seams, stitches In sewn fabrics, the ratio of seam strength to fabric strength In sewn fabrics, the ratio of seam strength to fabric strength
SEAM MARGIN seams, stitches See Seam allowance. See Seam allowance.
SEAM MARK defects Fabric defect, in finished woven cloth Fabric defect, in finished woven cloth. A pressure mark caused by the thickness of the seam being pressed against the cloth. Sometimes called Wrinkle Mark.
SEAM OPENING seams, stitches See Seam busting See Seam busting
SEAM PUCKER seams, stitches Puckering of fabric along the line of stitching at a seam. Puckering of fabric along the line of stitching at a seam.
SEAM QUALITY seams, stitches The serviceability and appearance of a seam as governed by the quality of the fabric The serviceability and appearance of a seam as governed by the quality of the fabric, the thread used, and the number of stitches to the inch
SEAM SLIPPAGE fabrics In sewn fabrics, the displacement of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent to the stitch line. In sewn fabrics, the displacement of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent to the stitch line. The pulling away of fabric from a seam under tension.
A synthetic resin finish for rayons and synthetics prevents seam slippage and fraying at the seams of yarns liable to occur with smooth fibres and filament yarns, especially light, loosely woven cloth.
SEAM SMOOTHNESS seams, stitches In fabrics, the visual impression of planarity of a seamed specimen quantified In fabrics, the visual impression of planarity of a seamed specimen quantified by comparison with a set of reference standards.
SEAM TYPES seams, stitches An alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric seam. An alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric seam.
Seam constructions are divided into eight classes, as per BS Standard 3870, that describe the number and configuration of the material components in the seam.
A five-digit number denotes the particular combination. The first number represents the class, the second and third digits the materials configuration, and the fourth and fifth digits the needle penetration location.
The components are described as being 'limited' or 'unlimited' on their edges. Limited describes an edge that is finite and bears a relationship to the seam formed. Unlimited describes an edge or side that is inde-terminate and unconnected with the seam formed. Within the British Standard a limited edge is defined with a straight line and an unlimited edge by a wavy line.
SEAM-FINISH seams, stitches A treatment of the raw fabric edges of the seam allowance in a plain seam. A treatment of the raw fabric edges of the seam allowance in a plain seam. Seam-finishes are used to prevent raveling, provide a neater appearance, and prolong wear life.
Types of seam-finishes may include 'Bound', 'Clean-finish', 'Double-stitched', 'Hand-overcast', 'Hong Kong', 'Pinked', 'Rolled', 'Self-bound', 'Stitched and Pinked', 'Turned and Stitched', and 'Zigzagged'. The type of seam-finish chosen may be influenced by type and weight of fabric, end use of object, amount and kind of care given, the visibility of the seams, and the design of the item. Seam-finishes are not needed with complex seams.
SEAMING garments, made-ups, assemblies Joining together the component parts of a garment at a given distance from the edge of the material. Joining together the component parts of a garment at a given distance from the edge of the material.
SEAMING DEFECTS IN GARMENT defects See under Garment defects, classified See under Garment defects, classified
SEAMLOC processes, operations A treatment with a plastic binder on the back of woven carpets to prevent the fabric from ravelling A treatment with a plastic binder on the back of woven carpets to prevent the fabric from ravelling. Seams are joined with special tape and cementing material to make an almost invisible seam.
SEAT garments, made-ups, assemblies Part of trousers covering the buttocks Part of trousers covering the buttocks
SEAT ANGLE garments, made-ups, assemblies The quantity of material, usually 5 to 8 cm., allowed at the seat on the underside for ease of movement. The quantity of material, usually 5 to 8 cm., allowed at the seat on the underside for ease of movement.
SEAT BELT WEBBING accessories A woven webbing, usually of polyester A woven webbing, usually of polyester, with special physical characteristics used for body restraining purposes.
SEAWEED FIBRES fibers, filaments, yarns See Alignate fibres See Alignate fibres
SECANT MODULUS general On a stress/strain diagram, the ratio of change in stress to change in strain between two points, especially the points of zero stress and breaking stress. On a stress/strain diagram, the ratio of change in stress to change in strain between two points, especially the points of zero stress and breaking stress.
SECOND-HAND FILLING MATERIAL fibers, filaments, yarns An industry product which contains any filling material which has previously been used An industry product which contains any filling material which has previously been used should not be offered for sale unless a clear and conspicuous disclosure of that fact is made on the label thereof and in all advertising and invoices relating to such product.
SECONDARY COLOURS general See under Colour See under Colour
SECONDS general Textile products which, owing to some fault or imperfection Textile products which, owing to some fault or imperfection, do not reach an agreed standard of quality.
SECRET FINISH processes, operations Usually a newly patented finish of a converter. Usually a newly patented finish of a converter. The finisher can collect royalties, or sell or license the technique and the finish. Secret finishes bring certain textile fabrics to the consumer's attention.
SECTION MARK defects Fabric defect in woven fabrics. Unintented warp bands of different colour, texture, or lustre. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. Unintented warp bands of different colour, texture, or lustre. Seen in a fabric section, the warp yarns woven loose, and the weft yarns show a cockled effect. Caused by uneven tension of the warp or a section of the warp which has slipped during the dressing or slashing operations. The affected areas are usually a total loss, since it is very difficult to bring the material to what it should be. Also called Warp Band
SECTION WARPING processes, operations See Pattern warping and also Beam warping. See Pattern warping and also Beam warping.
SEE-THROUGH FABRIC fabrics A very sheer cloth such as gauze. 1. A very sheer cloth such as gauze.
2. Foam laminating, particularly in knit goods; permits the foam backing to show through on the face of the cloth.
SEED COAT FRAGMENT fibers, filaments, yarns In cotton, a portion of a cottonseed, In cotton, a portion of a cottonseed, usually black or dark brown in colour, broken from a mature or immature seed, and to which fibres and linters may or may not be attached.
SEED COTTON fibers, filaments, yarns Cotton, as harvested and before ginning Cotton, as harvested and before ginning, consisting of seeds with the fibre attached and usually including measurable amounts of foreign matter.
SEED EFFECT fabrics Appearance of having small seed-like objects scattered over the surface of the fabric. Appearance of having small seed-like objects scattered over the surface of the fabric. May be produced by the yarn, weave or print.
SEED FIBRES fibers, filaments, yarns A general term applied to fibres and hairs produced by the seeds or seed pods of plants A general term applied to fibres and hairs produced by the seeds or seed pods of plants, such as cotton, vegetable silk.
SEERLOOP GINGHAM fabrics Gingham with slack-tension loops of yarn on the surface, often on the white lines only. Gingham with slack-tension loops of yarn on the surface, often on the white lines only. See Gingham.
SEERSUCKER fabrics Traditional form of cotton fabric showing crinkled/puckered stripes alternating with flat ones of various widths which may be in different colours and sizes. Traditional form of cotton fabric showing crinkled/puckered stripes alternating with flat ones of various widths which may be in different colours and sizes. The stripes may be multicoloured, or in a plain coloured fabric with a printed floral pattern on it. Early seersucker, all cotton, was made by physically forcing bubbles into the plain fabric, and so after a few washes the bubbles began to flatten and, if ironed they would certainly disappear.
Now, however, the cloth is made on a twin- beam loom which feeds the yarns at different speeds and the puckers are therefore woven in, i.e. a normally plain weave fabric is produced by having two warps, one heavily tensioned and the other comparatively slack. The crinkled stripes are formed by the slack warp and the smooth ground by the tight warp. Fibre content now normally includes polyester with cotton, but it can be a nylon fabric. This is a relatively expensive method of producing crinkled effects and the chemical or heat shrinkage methods as mentioned in Plisse are cheaper and more commonly used.
Used for lightweight casual clothes, such as shirts, skirts, beachwear, aprons and for tablecloths and kitchen curtains. Creases do not show
SELF-BLENDED YARN fibers, filaments, yarns A single yarn spun from a blend or mixture of the same fibre species. A single yarn spun from a blend or mixture of the same fibre species. A spun yarn made from fibres of varied lengths or different counts would be a self-blended yarn. See also Combination yarn, Blended yarn.
SELF-BOUND SEAM-FINISH seams, stitches A finish for the raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, in which one seam allowance encloses both raw edges.