| SABLE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A dark brown luxury
fur which is very hardwearing. |
A dark brown luxury
fur which is very hardwearing. |
| SABLÉ GROUND |
fabrics |
A French term for
a block-printed cloth which has tiny-pinned dots printed
all over it before the printing of the main pattern. |
A French term for
a block-printed cloth which has tiny-pinned dots printed
all over it before the printing of the main pattern. Also
called Sanded or Vermicular. |
| SACKING |
fabrics |
A general term
applied to coarse fabrics, used mainly for making of bags
or sacks. |
A general term
applied to coarse fabrics, used mainly for making of bags
or sacks. They are often made of jute, hemp, flax or polyolefin,
and the number of threads per centimetre may vary from
2 to over 12. See also Bagging Fabric |
| SADDENING |
processes, operations |
A wool dyeing process
in which the mordant is applied after, instead of before
the dyestuff. |
A wool dyeing process
in which the mordant is applied after, instead of before
the dyestuff. |
| SADDLE SHOULDER |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The shape of the
junction between the sleeve and the body of a garment |
The shape of the
junction between the sleeve and the body of a garment
where the line starts at the underarm, progresses as a
set-in or raglan to a point approximately two thirds up
the armhole, then changes to a line parallel to the shoulder
itself. The sleeve head has a tongue projection to achieve
this. |
| SAFETY STITCH |
seams, stitches |
Stitch formed by
an over-edge stitch, reinforced by a chain stitch (or
sometimes lockstitch), further in from the fabric edge. |
Stitch formed by
an over-edge stitch, reinforced by a chain stitch (or
sometimes lockstitch), further in from the fabric edge. |
| SAILCLOTH |
fabrics |
Firm ribbed fabric
made from cotton, rayon usually, or polyester and cotton |
Firm ribbed fabric
made from cotton, rayon usually, or polyester and cotton.
In plain colours in plain or basket weave, Coarser and
more heavily ribbed than poplin but not as prominently
ribbed as repp. Sailcloth is made in heavier weights than
poplin and is used for dresses, blouses, children's clothes,
leisure wear, trousers and men's summer jackets according
to weight. It is usually resin finished and is stiff and
hardwearing. Drape and pleats well but crease easily. |
| SALISBURY |
fabrics |
Popular white English
flannel; made of woollen yarn. |
Popular white English
flannel; made of woollen yarn. It comes in varying weights. |
| SALT AND PEPPER |
fabrics |
Fabric made of
black and white ply yarns |
Fabric made of
black and white ply yarns. Typical fabrics are tweed and
homespun. See also Pepper and Salt |
| SALT SENSITIVITY |
¡ I |
IN DYEING. The
extent to which the dyeing properties (especially on cellulosic
fibres) of a dye are af-fected, by the addition of a neutral
electrolyte to the dyebath. |
1. IN DYEING. The
extent to which the dyeing properties (especially on cellulosic
fibres) of a dye are af-fected, by the addition of a neutral
electrolyte to the dyebath.
2. IN DYED FABRIC. The susceptibility of coloured material
to change in colour when spotted with aqueous solution
of neutral electrolytes. |
| SAMITE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Xamitum. |
See Xamitum. |
| SAMPLE |
general |
A portion of a
lot of material which is taken for testing or for record
purposes. |
1. A portion of
a lot of material which is taken for testing or for record
purposes.
2. A group of specimens used, or observations made, which
provide information that can be used for mak-ing statistical
inferences about the population(s) from which they were
drawn.
See also Lot sample, Laboratory sample, and Specimen. |
| SAMPLING PLAN |
general |
A procedure for
obtaining a sample |
A procedure for
obtaining a sample |
| SAMPLING UNIT |
general |
An identifiable,
discrete unit or sub-unit of material that could be taken
as part of a sample. |
An identifiable,
discrete unit or sub-unit of material that could be taken
as part of a sample. |
| SAND CRÊPE |
fabrics |
A fabric with an
irregular surface texture made from silk or man-made fibres. |
A fabric with an
irregular surface texture made from silk or man-made fibres.
It is heavier than 'crêpe de chine'. The fabric
is finished with the appearance of sand. |
| SAND ROLLER MARKS |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
These marks run in the weft direction and may be caused
by uneven tension and 'pull' on the cloth as it winds
around the sand roller on the loom. Irregular tension
between the sand roller and the cloth roller also causes
these marks |
| SANDED |
fabrics |
See Sablé
ground. |
See Sablé
ground. |
| SANDFLY NET |
fabrics |
See Bobbin net |
See Bobbin net |
| SANDWICH BLENDING |
processes, operations |
Mixing fibres from
different package lots, units, or of different characteristics |
Mixing fibres from
different package lots, units, or of different characteristics
by spreading them in two or more horizontal layers with
all elements in the proper proportion when vertical sections
are cut. Sections are fed to the appropriate yarn-making
machine. |
| SANDWICH-PLATED
FABRIC |
fabrics |
See under Plated
fabric. |
See under Plated
fabric. |
| SANFORIZE PUCKER |
defects |
Fabric defect,
may be major or minor. |
Fabric defect,
may be major or minor. Resulting from uneven wetting out
on the sanforizor, usually defective spray heads. The
fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on the
cutting table. |
| SANFORIZED |
fabrics |
The trademark of
a controlled mechanical shrinking process applied to cottons
and other fabrics liable to be washed a great deal. |
The trademark of
a controlled mechanical shrinking process applied to cottons
and other fabrics liable to be washed a great deal. Fabrics
are shrunk by compressive shrinkage process. Sanforized
fabric can be controlled to shrink not more than 1 % in
laundering. Used mainly on shirt fabrics. |
| SANFORIZED COTTON
SEW-IN |
accessories |
See under Sew-in
woven interfacing. |
See under Sew-in
woven interfacing. |
| SANFORIZING MARK |
defects |
Fabric defect.
Also called Blanket mark. |
Fabric defect.
Also called Blanket mark. A crimped, rippled, wavy, pebbled,
or cockled place in the cloth showing distortion of the
texture. |
| SANITIZED |
fabrics |
A germicidal or
bacteriostatic finish applied to fabric, plastic and other
materials. |
A germicidal or
bacteriostatic finish applied to fabric, plastic and other
materials. |
| SANSEVIERIA |
fabrics |
A fibre obtained
from the leaves of various species of plants of the genus
'Sansevieria'. |
A fibre obtained
from the leaves of various species of plants of the genus
'Sansevieria'. |
| SAPONIFIED ACETATE
RAYON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A high-tenacity
acetate rayon, which is insoluble in acetone and is dyed
like viscose rayon. |
A high-tenacity
acetate rayon, which is insoluble in acetone and is dyed
like viscose rayon. |
| SAPONIFIED CELLULOSE
ACETATE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The saponified
cellulose acetate filaments are made by heating cellulose
acetate filament yarns in steam and stretching the softened
yarn by 4 to 10 times its original length. |
The saponified
cellulose acetate filaments are made by heating cellulose
acetate filament yarns in steam and stretching the softened
yarn by 4 to 10 times its original length. The stretched
yarn is wound onto perforated bobbins and saponified by
treatment with caustic soda solution. The resultant yarn
of very fine filaments of regenerated highly oriented
cellulose is then washed, oiled, dried and rewound. Very
high ratio of strength to volume and excellent dimensional
stability. |
| SARAN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A manufactured
fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long
chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 80 % by weight
of vinylidene chloride units. |
A manufactured
fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long
chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 80 % by weight
of vinylidene chloride units.
It is a very strong fibre resisting dirt, chemicals, sunlight,
etc. Used mainly for upholstery on public trans-port. |
| SARI |
fabrics, garments,
made-ups, assemblies |
Also spelled 'saree'
A term applied to the fabric woven especially for saris. |
Also spelled 'saree'
1. A term applied to the fabric woven especially for saris.
2. Sari is one of the best surviving examples of the ancient,
purely draped women's costume of the warm climates in
which the garment is constructed entirely by draping-without
cutting. Saris are woven of fine cottons, silks or even
man-made fibres. They may be of printed or plain designs
and are often decorated with metal threads on borders
and ends. It can be worn in different ways. The pieces
can be from 3.5 m. to 5 m. long depending on the style
of draping. Now, fine expensive saris are hand-woven or
machine-made in cotton or silk, while the less expensive
saris are cut from long pieces. |
| SARILLE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Trade name of a
soft cellulose fibre, developed from viscose and used
to produce warm fabrics. |
Trade name of a
soft cellulose fibre, developed from viscose and used
to produce warm fabrics. Mainly used in dress fabrics,
household textiles such as blankets, and often mixed with
other fibres, such as wool, to reduce the cost |
| SARONG |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A draped costume
consisting of a piece of fabric woven 5 m. to 7 m. long,
usually of cotton, sometimes silk. |
A draped costume
consisting of a piece of fabric woven 5 m. to 7 m. long,
usually of cotton, sometimes silk. Usually printed by
the batik, block or warp print method or sometimes with
woven design. Often made with fancy borders. |
| SARSNET RIBBON |
accessories |
A ribbon constructed
entirely in plain weave of very fine warp and weft and
with high density, the weft density being higher than
that of the warp. |
A ribbon constructed
entirely in plain weave of very fine warp and weft and
with high density, the weft density being higher than
that of the warp. A true sarsnet is made wholly of silk |
| SARSONET |
fabrics |
Originally a fine
Arabian fabric of silk, it is now a net or veiling fabric
in millinery |
Originally a fine
Arabian fabric of silk, it is now a net or veiling fabric
in millinery. Made from silk, nylon, or polyester. |
| SATEEN |
fabrics |
In pure sateen
weaves, the surface of the cloth consists almost entirely
of weft floats. Sateen is manufactured in many different
types and weights. The standard curtain lining fabric
is a good example of this type of fabric, made from cotton
and given a schreiner finish to produce lustre.
Most commonly used for linings. According to quality it
is used as curtain lining or curtain fabric. Used for
costumes for the stage and fancy dress. Soft and drapes
well. It does not wear particularly well; seams tend to
pull and crack-marks appear where hems are pressed. It
is not often used as a dress fabric for these rea-sons. |
Regarded as a cheaper
version of the satin. Sateen weave produces a weft-faced
fabric by reversing the satin weave. However it is not
a straightforward reversing of a satin weave because the
fabric construction differs in that the weft yarns are
more numerous and more closely set than the warp yarns
here in order to give the necessary compactness of surface.
The diagram shows a 5-thread sateen structure.
In pure sateen weaves, the surface of the cloth consists
almost entirely of weft floats. Sateen is manufactured
in many different types and weights. The standard curtain
lining fabric is a good example of this type of fabric,
made from cotton and given a schreiner finish to produce
lustre.
Most commonly used for linings. According to quality it
is used as curtain lining or curtain fabric. Used for
costumes for the stage and fancy dress. Soft and drapes
well. It does not wear particularly well; seams tend to
pull and crack-marks appear where hems are pressed. It
is not often used as a dress fabric for these rea-sons. |
| SATEEN FINISH |
fabrics |
A highly lustrous
finish with a fairly crisp hand applied to certain cotton
fabrics to imitate satin fabrics. |
A highly lustrous
finish with a fairly crisp hand applied to certain cotton
fabrics to imitate satin fabrics. |
| SATIN |
fabrics |
Fabric, that is
very smooth and has lustrous face on the right side (although
sometimes both sides are satin weave). |
Fabric, that is
very smooth and has lustrous face on the right side (although
sometimes both sides are satin weave). It originated as
a woven silk fabric and its effect depends on a special
construction. The smoothness is produced by a special
satin weave which has long 'floats' of warp over weft.
The warp is very closely set and there are usually at
least twice as many warp yarns per cm than weft. This
gives a close compact face predominantly warp. The interlacings
of warp with weft should be completely hidden giving the
fabric an apparently smooth featureless surface. See diagrams
'5-thread satin' and '8-thread satin' under Satin weave.
The back of the fabric is comparatively dull in contrast.
Satin-weave fabrics are made from all yarns, including
silk, acetate, nylon, viscose, polyester, cotton Many
different types and weights of satin are made for a wide
variety of dress and lining use.
Duchesse satin: Very smooth rather stiff-handling satin,
heavier in weight than the average dress satin, made with
a very fine warp in an 8-thread satin weave which may
be silk, but is more likely to be viscose (see diagram
under 'satin weave'), usually with a non-lustrous fairly
thick weft to give the requisite firm-ness. Used mainly
for wedding-gowns and evening dresses.
Double satin: Very expensive fine fabric made as the name
suggests with a double satin weave so that both sides
are lustrous - and may be different colours - and the
weft is completely hidden.
Crêpe satin: This features hard twisted weft yarns
in alternate 'S' and 'Z' twist which cause a crinkling
of the smooth surface giving a more subdued lustre.
The satin weave is used in cotton and wool fabrics also,
not primarily for lustre purpose but to produce a smooth
surface, which can be suitably enhanced by finishing processes.
See Drill and Doeskin.
A satin type fabric is also produced by warp knitting
by using long guide bar laps which gives the technical
back of the fabric a smooth surface which is used as the
face side for dress fabrics, often printed. The fabric
surface is not so smooth and compact as the woven satin |
| SATIN DRILL |
fabrics |
A drill fabric
made with a five-end satin weave |
A drill fabric
made with a five-end satin weave |
| SATIN FINISH |
fabrics |
A smooth lustrous
finish, which may be applied to several fabrics. |
A smooth lustrous
finish, which may be applied to several fabrics. The satin
weave is not necessarily employed. |
| SATIN STITCH |
seams, stitches |
Embroidery done
in close parallel lines (stitches) over a printed design |
Embroidery done
in close parallel lines (stitches) over a printed design.
Characterised by a satiny surface. May or may not be padded;
if it is, called a 'raised satin stitch'; if not, a 'flat
satin stitch'. |
| SATIN STRIPE |
fabrics |
Fabric of almost
any fibre, including cotton, that has a satin-weave shiny
stripe alternating with contrasting stripe of a different
weave of thickness of yarn, even of a different colour |
Fabric of almost
any fibre, including cotton, that has a satin-weave shiny
stripe alternating with contrasting stripe of a different
weave of thickness of yarn, even of a different colour |
| SATIN STRIPES |
fabrics |
A stripe in fabric
formed by a satin weave. |
A stripe in fabric
formed by a satin weave. |
| SATIN WEAVE |
fabrics |
One of the three
basic types of weave, the other two being Plain and Twill. |
One of the three
basic types of weave, the other two being Plain and Twill.
Satin weaves are a group of structures designed to produce
a smooth fabric surface without twill markings. The word
satin creates a mental picture of a smooth lustrous fabric
In the diagram of a 5-thread satin weave, shown above,
it will be seen that the face of the fabric is predomi-nantly
warp and each warp yarn passes over four weft yarns and
under one. The interlacings do not form a rigid twill
line; the warp yarns are set almost twice as closely as
the weft yarns so that as the surface closes up the single
weft interlacings are hidden between the warp floats in
each side of them. This gives the illu-sion of a solid
unbroken surface if the structure is correctly set, but
creates a one-sided fabric in that the re-verse side is
coarser in texture, and not smooth. Larger weaves give
a smoother surface by enabling the weft interlacings to
be hidden more efficiently but tend to produce loose fabrics
unless the setting is very fine
In the 8-thread version, shown above, the basic interlacing
is 7 and 1. This is used only in more expensive fine fabrics
because it would produce a very loose structure in a cheaper
setting.
These weaves are used extensively with filament yarns
to obtain maximum lustre and smoothness. The long 'floats'
of the interlacings expose the filaments to damage in
making-up and wear. Satins are not very dura-ble if subjected
to much abrasion, unless made from very strong synthetic
fibres, and cheap satins, which usually lack closeness,
are subject to yarn slippage and 'cracking' of fabric
The 'sateen weave' produces a weft-faced fabric. See Sateen |
| SATIN, KNITTED |
fabrics |
A two-bar warp-knitted
fabric in which the front-bar underlaps are arranged with
a view to producing a smooth surface. |
A two-bar warp-knitted
fabric in which the front-bar underlaps are arranged with
a view to producing a smooth surface. |
| SATIN-BACK |
fabrics |
Any fabric of any
fibre where the reverse side is of satin weave. |
Any fabric of any
fibre where the reverse side is of satin weave. See Satin. |
| SATIN-BACK CRÊPE |
fabrics |
See Satin-back
crêpe. |
See Satin-back
crêpe. |
| SATINET WEAVE |
fabrics |
See Satinett. |
See Satinett. |
| SATINETT |
fabrics |
A four-end irregular
satin or sateen weave. |
A four-end irregular
satin or sateen weave. |
| SATURATION BONDING |
processes, operations |
A method of making
nonwoven fabrics |
A method of making
nonwoven fabrics in which the fibre web or batt is treated
by overall application of an adhesive in liquid form.
See also Adhesive bonded Non-woven fabric. |
| SATURATION REGAIN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The moisture in
a material at 95 to 100 % relative humidity. |
The moisture in
a material at 95 to 100 % relative humidity. |
| SATURATION VALUE |
processes, operations |
The maximum quantity
of a dye which can be absorbed by a substrate under defined
conditions. |
The maximum quantity
of a dye which can be absorbed by a substrate under defined
conditions. |
| SAWDUST CRÊPE |
fabrics |
A type of rayon
fabric made in a crêpe construction with a harsher
hand than sand crêpe. |
A type of rayon
fabric made in a crêpe construction with a harsher
hand than sand crêpe. |
| SAXONY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
FIBRE. The high
grade Class One wool of the merino wool group. |
1. FIBRE. The high
grade Class One wool of the merino wool group.
2. YARN. A high grade, finely twisted knitting yarn used
in the better type of fabrics.
3. FABRIC. A soft feeling, well finished flannel made
from Saxony wool. Originally made in the province of Saxony,
Germany, the name has come to be used to describe any
soft, plain weave woollen or worsted cloth with a slight
nap. High-grade yarns are used so the term always implies
a good quality cloth. It may be plain or in small checks. |
| SAXONY FINISH |
fabrics |
A finish generally
applied to woollen fabric; the cloth is fulled, stretched,
napped, shorn short and then brushed and pressed. |
A finish generally
applied to woollen fabric; the cloth is fulled, stretched,
napped, shorn short and then brushed and pressed. |
| SCAFFOLDING YARN |
fabrics |
That component
of a plied yarn that is used to support a weaker component
through further processing until it is satisfactorily
introduced into a fabric. |
That component
of a plied yarn that is used to support a weaker component
through further processing until it is satisfactorily
introduced into a fabric. The scaffolding yarn may then
be removed by solvent or other chemical action or, alternatively,
be retained in the fabric to make it more durable. |
| SCALE LINES |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In engraved printing-roller
work |
In engraved printing-roller
work, in order to print a flat area of solid colour, the
shape (after outlining) must be filled in with a series
of parallel lines set an angle of between 22½° and 30°;
the number of these to the inch constitutes the scale. |
| SCALES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The overlapping
horny cell components which make up the outside surface
of the wool fibre. |
The overlapping
horny cell components which make up the outside surface
of the wool fibre. They permit felting. |
| SCALLOP |
fabrics, defects |
Curves or indentations
along the edge of a fabric. |
1. Curves or indentations
along the edge of a fabric.
2. Fabric defect. The edges of a fabric exhibiting approximately
sinusoidal waveforms of short lengths in the plane of
the fabric. The defect usually appears in a fabric which
has been stretched excessively width-ways during stentering |
| SCALLOPED SELVEDGE |
defects |
Also called Misclip,
Off-dip. Fabric defect. |
Also called Misclip,
Off-dip. Fabric defect. An abrupt, narrow indentation
in the selvedge of the cloth, caused due to clip on stenter
frame failing to attach itself onto, or hold fabric selvedge.
An irregular cloth edge similar in appearance to that
of a scallop shell. |
| SCARF |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A square piece
of cloth worn for warmth or as a decorative apparel item. |
A square piece
of cloth worn for warmth or as a decorative apparel item. |
| SCHAPPE SILK |
fabrics |
A type of silk
from which the gum has been removed by fermentation. |
A type of silk
from which the gum has been removed by fermentation. The
fabric produced and called by this name is similar to
Spun silk |
| SCHAPPING |
processes, operations |
A method of degumming
applied to silk waste, which removes part of the gum by
a fermentation process. |
A method of degumming
applied to silk waste, which removes part of the gum by
a fermentation process. Up to 90 % of gum may be removed
from the fibre. |
| SCHIFFLI LACE |
fabrics |
Name originates
from the machine itself. |
Name originates
from the machine itself. Embroidery done in a Schiffli
loom-like machine, equipped with many needles and boat-shaped
shuttles. It produces various effects on lightweight fabrics. |
| SCHIFFLI MACHINE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
An embroidery machine |
An embroidery machine
consisting of a multiplicity of lockstitch sewing elements
working on a basic net or fabric that is attached to a
frame movable vertically and horizontally according to
the requirements of the pattern |
| SCHREINER |
processes, operations,
apparatus, equipage, tools |
A finish for enhancing
the lustre of the fabric, obtained by passing it through
a schreiner calender. |
1. Description
of a calender with two or three bowls in which one ( the
middle one in a three-bowl calender) is of highly polished
steel engraved with very fine parallel lines (grooves)
running at an angle of approxi-mately 20° to either the
horizontal or the vertical.
2. The term is sometimes used for the engraved bowl of
a schreiner calender. The engraved bowl is heated, usually
to 60-120° C for finishing cotton fabrics,
3. A finish for enhancing the lustre of the fabric, obtained
by passing it through a schreiner calender. Opti-mum effects
are obtained when the lines are slightly cross the direction
of the surface yarn twist. |
| SCHREINERING |
processes, operations |
A fabric finishing
process which smoothen the right side, often impressing
a pattern at the same time. |
A fabric finishing
process which smoothen the right side, often impressing
a pattern at the same time. Schreinering is produced using
a special schreiner calender. It has a metal cylinder
that has a series of fine lines, from 250 to 350 per inch
(100 to 140/cm), engraved so that they form an angle of
roughly 26° to the construction of the cloth. The angle
is usually such that the lines are parallel to the twist
in the yarns. The fabric is fed between the large cylinder
with the engraved lines and a smaller cylinder that is
heated. The finish produces a soft, silk-like lustre and
is frequently used on cellulose fibres such as cotton
and linen. The cylinders flatten the yarns and create
a smooth and compact fabric. This process is also used
in tricot knits to produce lingerie fabrics that are soft
and opaque |
| SCOOP |
accessories |
Deprecated term. |
Deprecated term.
See Element. |
| SCOTCH BEAMING |
processes, operations |
See Dry taping
under Scotch dressing. |
See Dry taping
under Scotch dressing. |
| SCOTCH BLACKFACE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A well-known breed
of sheep, which produces much long carpet wool. |
A well-known breed
of sheep, which produces much long carpet wool. The fibres
are very strong, rugged, stand the rigours of weather
very well and ideal for use as 'filling fibre' in the
manufacture of rugs and carpets. |
| SCOTCH CARPET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
See under Ingrain
carpet. |
See under Ingrain
carpet. |
| SCOTCH DRESSING |
processes, operations |
Dry taping: Also
called Scotch beaming. |
Dry taping: Also
called Scotch beaming. A method of preparing striped warps
for weaving, suitable for use when long lengths of any
one pattern are to be woven. The preparation is carried
out in three operational steps.
Dresser sizing: Also called Scotch warp dressing. A method
of warp preparation, used particularly in the linen industry,
which incorporates sizing.
See also Dressing |
| SCOTCH FINISH |
fabrics |
A term applied
to heavy woollens finished with a closely shorn nap. |
A term applied
to heavy woollens finished with a closely shorn nap. |
| SCOTCH TWEED |
fabrics |
Woollen tweed made
in twill weave using a white warp and brightly coloured
weft yarns. |
Woollen tweed made
in twill weave using a white warp and brightly coloured
weft yarns. It has a tough, shaggy appearance, and is
made in various weights for suits and overcoats. |
| SCOTCH WARP DRESSING |
processes, operations |
See Dresser sizing
under Scotch dressing. |
See Dresser sizing
under Scotch dressing. |
| SCOTCHGUARD |
fabrics |
A registered shower-proof
finish applied to some fabrics |
A registered shower-proof
finish applied to some fabrics |
| SCOURED WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Wool, from which
the bulk of impurities have been removed by an aqueous
or solvent washing process. |
Wool, from which
the bulk of impurities have been removed by an aqueous
or solvent washing process. |
| SCOURING |
processes, operations |
The cleaning of
raw stock, yarn or cloth to remove various impurities
as oils, fats, waxes, soluble impurities and any adhering
particulate of solid dirt. |
The cleaning of
raw stock, yarn or cloth to remove various impurities
as oils, fats, waxes, soluble impurities and any adhering
particulate of solid dirt. The process consists essentially
of treatment with a detergent, with or without the addition
of an alkali or by treatment with solvents and chemicals.
Scouring is almost invariably the first wet process applied
to textile materials. |
| SCRATCH FELT |
fabrics |
Cheap quality woollen
fabric made to resemble camel cloth. |
Cheap quality woollen
fabric made to resemble camel cloth. Poor wearing qualities. |
| SCRAY |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A 'J' shaped container
in which piece goods may be accumulated in folds or pleats. |
A 'J' shaped container
in which piece goods may be accumulated in folds or pleats.
Generally used in dry finishing or inspection to compensate
the flow of cloth to varying speeds. |
| SCREEN ENGRAVING |
processes, operations |
The production
of the open and in-filled pattern areas on the print-screen
surface |
The production
of the open and in-filled pattern areas on the print-screen
surface; the traditional term is still used, although
engraving is in no way involved. |
| SCREEN PRINTING |
processes, operations |
A stencil-like
method of printing, using a screen of fine mesh cloth. |
A stencil-like
method of printing, using a screen of fine mesh cloth.
Areas to remain uncoloured, are treated with a film which
prevents colour passage. Colour paste is forced through
the untreated potions of the screen onto the fabric underneath.
The screen may then be moved ahead to a repeat. Separate
screen is used for each different colour in a design.
There are mainly two types of screen printing methods:
Flat bed screen printing: Colour is squeezed through a
flat screen manually or automatically. Also called 'automatic
screen printing'.
Roller screen printing: A roller metal screen is used.
Rollers are arranged horizontally, vertically and cen-trally. |
| SCRIM |
fabrics |
Loosely woven cloth
in cotton yarn, similar to voile but a poorer quality
fabric. |
Loosely woven cloth
in cotton yarn, similar to voile but a poorer quality
fabric. It is very similar to cheesecloth. Normally used
only for backing other fabrics such as fur. |
| SCRIMP |
defects |
Printing defect,
major. |
Printing defect,
major. The result of the fabric being folded or creased
when passing through the print machine. There will be
areas not printed. |
| SCRIMP ROLLER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Also called Scroll
roller. |
Also called Scroll
roller. Rollers or bars (rails) characterised by grooves
or projections inclined at equal and opposite angles to
the centre line on each half and used for removing folds
or creases during finishing operations. |
| SCRIMPS |
defects |
A wrinkle in a
cloth caused by excessive strain, tension or pressure
on a fabric. |
1. A wrinkle in
a cloth caused by excessive strain, tension or pressure
on a fabric.
2. A printing defect identified by areas of fabric that
are unprinted. May be due to creasing of the fabric as
it passes through the printing area. |
| SCROLL GIMP |
fabrics |
A woven figured
narrow fabric having two series of wefts and a warp. |
A woven figured
narrow fabric having two series of wefts and a warp. Each
series consists of three gimp cords laid flat. The ground
series projects at one edge to form a triple loop; the
figure series passes through the warp and returns over
the warp alternately to form a loose scroll on the surface.
The overall width of the fabric, which is in plain weave,
is about 16 mm |
| SCROLL ROLLER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Scrimp roller |
See Scrimp roller |
| SCROOP |
fabrics |
The rustling sound
associated with silk, which is heard when fabric is compressed,
rubbed together or with body movement when worn. |
The rustling sound
associated with silk, which is heard when fabric is compressed,
rubbed together or with body movement when worn. It is
not a natural property, but is imparted during finishing
by treatment with certain acids. Some man-made materials
also may be given this finish. |
| SCULPTURED PILE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
See under Pile
in carpet |
See under Pile
in carpet |
| SCULPTURED RUG |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A floor covering
with Jacquard designs, in different heights of pile. |
A floor covering
with Jacquard designs, in different heights of pile. |
| SCUTCHER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A machine which
breaks and opens up fibres. |
1. A machine which
breaks and opens up fibres.
2.A finishing machine that whirls against the fabric in
such a way and speed, so as to spread the cloth in full
width. |
| SCUTCHING |
processes, operations |
IN COTTON FIBRE.
An operation in which cotton is opened mechanically and
cleaned and formed into a continuous lap. |
1. IN COTTON FIBRE.
An operation in which cotton is opened mechanically and
cleaned and formed into a continuous lap.
2. IN FLAX FIBRE. The operation of separating the woody
part of deseeded or retted flax straw from the fibre.
See also Retting.
3. IN ANY FABRIC. Opening up of fabric to its full width.
This takes place after the fabric has been allowed to
close in on itself to 'rope' form. See Scutching |
| SCYE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The armhole of
a garment |
The armhole of
a garment |
| SCYE DEPTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| SEA ISLAND COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A type of extra
long staple cotton fibre. |
A type of extra
long staple cotton fibre. Average fibre length 51 mm.
The best quality cotton fibre and yarn in the world. The
fibre is long, soft, lustrous, and smooth and made into
top quality cotton fabrics both plain and printed. Production
is limited, so it is a very expensive yarn. |
| SEA SILK |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Strong lustrous
fibres yielded by certain algae. |
Strong lustrous
fibres yielded by certain algae. |
| SEAL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Shiny and flat
hair with coarse texture |
Shiny and flat
hair with coarse texture; not hardwearing. Black or grey
in colour. |
| SEALSKIN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fur, of the Alaskan
seal, usually dyed black or brown. |
Fur, of the Alaskan
seal, usually dyed black or brown. Is very hardwearing.
Often used for handbags. |
| SEAM |
seams, stitches |
Also called Joining
line. A line where two or more fabrics are joined, usually
near the edge. |
Also called Joining
line. A line where two or more fabrics are joined, usually
near the edge. The term seam is used to describe the composite
result of fabric being stitched. Materials used may include
fabric, fur, leather and plastic film. Joining methods
for seams may vary. Taken into account are the relationship
between the stitching and the edges of the fabric(s),
the particular folding of the fabric, the entry location
of the needle in stitching, and the positions of looper
and seam covering threads.
See also Sewn seam, Glued seam, Stapled seam, Thermally-bonded
seam. |
| SEAM ALLOWANCE |
seams, stitches |
Also called Seam
margin. |
Also called Seam
margin. In sewn fabrics, the distance from the edge of
a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that
edge, i.e. a pre-determined amount of material between
the edge of the component parts of the garment and the
seam line. Many commercial patterns specify seam allowances
which may vary usually between 1 mm to 20 mm depending
upon the pattern. Seam allowances may be trimmed during
or after seam construction. |
| SEAM ASSEMBLY |
seams, stitches |
The composite structure
obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam |
The composite structure
obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam |
| SEAM BASTING |
seams, stitches |
A temporary sewing
together of two parts of a garment. |
A temporary sewing
together of two parts of a garment. |
| SEAM BINDING |
accessories |
A straight tape
used for finishing the edges of hems and seams |
A straight tape
used for finishing the edges of hems and seams |
| SEAM BUSTING |
seams, stitches |
Pressing open seams,
often carried out as an intermediate operation during
garment assembly. |
Pressing open seams,
often carried out as an intermediate operation during
garment assembly. Same as Seam opening |
| SEAM DAMAGE |
defects |
Sewing defect |
Sewing defect.
An adverse change in the physical condition of one or
more of the components in a seam which would reduce the
seam efficiency and seam acceptability such as yarn slippage,
needle damage, or fabric rupture. |
| SEAM EFFICIENCY |
seams, stitches |
In sewn fabrics,
the ratio of seam strength to fabric strength |
In sewn fabrics,
the ratio of seam strength to fabric strength |
| SEAM MARGIN |
seams, stitches |
See Seam allowance. |
See Seam allowance. |
| SEAM MARK |
defects |
Fabric defect,
in finished woven cloth |
Fabric defect,
in finished woven cloth. A pressure mark caused by the
thickness of the seam being pressed against the cloth.
Sometimes called Wrinkle Mark. |
| SEAM OPENING |
seams, stitches |
See Seam busting |
See Seam busting |
| SEAM PUCKER |
seams, stitches |
Puckering of fabric
along the line of stitching at a seam. |
Puckering of fabric
along the line of stitching at a seam. |
| SEAM QUALITY |
seams, stitches |
The serviceability
and appearance of a seam as governed by the quality of
the fabric |
The serviceability
and appearance of a seam as governed by the quality of
the fabric, the thread used, and the number of stitches
to the inch |
| SEAM SLIPPAGE |
fabrics |
In sewn fabrics,
the displacement of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent
to the stitch line. |
In sewn fabrics,
the displacement of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent
to the stitch line. The pulling away of fabric from a
seam under tension.
A synthetic resin finish for rayons and synthetics prevents
seam slippage and fraying at the seams of yarns liable
to occur with smooth fibres and filament yarns, especially
light, loosely woven cloth. |
| SEAM SMOOTHNESS |
seams, stitches |
In fabrics, the
visual impression of planarity of a seamed specimen quantified |
In fabrics, the
visual impression of planarity of a seamed specimen quantified
by comparison with a set of reference standards. |
| SEAM TYPES |
seams, stitches |
An alphanumeric
designation relating to the essential characteristics
of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a specified
sewn fabric seam. |
An alphanumeric
designation relating to the essential characteristics
of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a specified
sewn fabric seam.
Seam constructions are divided into eight classes, as
per BS Standard 3870, that describe the number and configuration
of the material components in the seam.
A five-digit number denotes the particular combination.
The first number represents the class, the second and
third digits the materials configuration, and the fourth
and fifth digits the needle penetration location.
The components are described as being 'limited' or 'unlimited'
on their edges. Limited describes an edge that is finite
and bears a relationship to the seam formed. Unlimited
describes an edge or side that is inde-terminate and unconnected
with the seam formed. Within the British Standard a limited
edge is defined with a straight line and an unlimited
edge by a wavy line. |
| SEAM-FINISH |
seams, stitches |
A treatment of
the raw fabric edges of the seam allowance in a plain
seam. |
A treatment of
the raw fabric edges of the seam allowance in a plain
seam. Seam-finishes are used to prevent raveling, provide
a neater appearance, and prolong wear life.
Types of seam-finishes may include 'Bound', 'Clean-finish',
'Double-stitched', 'Hand-overcast', 'Hong Kong', 'Pinked',
'Rolled', 'Self-bound', 'Stitched and Pinked', 'Turned
and Stitched', and 'Zigzagged'. The type of seam-finish
chosen may be influenced by type and weight of fabric,
end use of object, amount and kind of care given, the
visibility of the seams, and the design of the item. Seam-finishes
are not needed with complex seams. |
| SEAMING |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Joining together
the component parts of a garment at a given distance from
the edge of the material. |
Joining together
the component parts of a garment at a given distance from
the edge of the material. |
| SEAMING DEFECTS
IN GARMENT |
defects |
See under Garment
defects, classified |
See under Garment
defects, classified |
| SEAMLOC |
processes, operations |
A treatment with
a plastic binder on the back of woven carpets to prevent
the fabric from ravelling |
A treatment with
a plastic binder on the back of woven carpets to prevent
the fabric from ravelling. Seams are joined with special
tape and cementing material to make an almost invisible
seam. |
| SEAT |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Part of trousers
covering the buttocks |
Part of trousers
covering the buttocks |
| SEAT ANGLE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The quantity of
material, usually 5 to 8 cm., allowed at the seat on the
underside for ease of movement. |
The quantity of
material, usually 5 to 8 cm., allowed at the seat on the
underside for ease of movement. |
| SEAT BELT WEBBING |
accessories |
A woven webbing,
usually of polyester |
A woven webbing,
usually of polyester, with special physical characteristics
used for body restraining purposes. |
| SEAWEED FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Alignate fibres |
See Alignate fibres |
| SECANT MODULUS |
general |
On a stress/strain
diagram, the ratio of change in stress to change in strain
between two points, especially the points of zero stress
and breaking stress. |
On a stress/strain
diagram, the ratio of change in stress to change in strain
between two points, especially the points of zero stress
and breaking stress. |
| SECOND-HAND FILLING
MATERIAL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
An industry product
which contains any filling material which has previously
been used |
An industry product
which contains any filling material which has previously
been used should not be offered for sale unless a clear
and conspicuous disclosure of that fact is made on the
label thereof and in all advertising and invoices relating
to such product. |
| SECONDARY COLOURS |
general |
See under Colour |
See under Colour |
| SECONDS |
general |
Textile products
which, owing to some fault or imperfection |
Textile products
which, owing to some fault or imperfection, do not reach
an agreed standard of quality. |
| SECRET FINISH |
processes, operations |
Usually a newly
patented finish of a converter. |
Usually a newly
patented finish of a converter. The finisher can collect
royalties, or sell or license the technique and the finish.
Secret finishes bring certain textile fabrics to the consumer's
attention. |
| SECTION MARK |
defects |
Fabric defect in
woven fabrics. Unintented warp bands of different colour,
texture, or lustre. |
Fabric defect in
woven fabrics. Unintented warp bands of different colour,
texture, or lustre. Seen in a fabric section, the warp
yarns woven loose, and the weft yarns show a cockled effect.
Caused by uneven tension of the warp or a section of the
warp which has slipped during the dressing or slashing
operations. The affected areas are usually a total loss,
since it is very difficult to bring the material to what
it should be. Also called Warp Band |
| SECTION WARPING |
processes, operations |
See Pattern warping
and also Beam warping. |
See Pattern warping
and also Beam warping. |
| SEE-THROUGH FABRIC |
fabrics |
A very sheer cloth
such as gauze. |
1. A very sheer
cloth such as gauze.
2. Foam laminating, particularly in knit goods; permits
the foam backing to show through on the face of the cloth. |
| SEED COAT FRAGMENT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
In cotton, a portion
of a cottonseed, |
In cotton, a portion
of a cottonseed, usually black or dark brown in colour,
broken from a mature or immature seed, and to which fibres
and linters may or may not be attached. |
| SEED COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Cotton, as harvested
and before ginning |
Cotton, as harvested
and before ginning, consisting of seeds with the fibre
attached and usually including measurable amounts of foreign
matter. |
| SEED EFFECT |
fabrics |
Appearance of having
small seed-like objects scattered over the surface of
the fabric. |
Appearance of having
small seed-like objects scattered over the surface of
the fabric. May be produced by the yarn, weave or print. |
| SEED FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A general term
applied to fibres and hairs produced by the seeds or seed
pods of plants |
A general term
applied to fibres and hairs produced by the seeds or seed
pods of plants, such as cotton, vegetable silk. |
| SEERLOOP GINGHAM |
fabrics |
Gingham with slack-tension
loops of yarn on the surface, often on the white lines
only. |
Gingham with slack-tension
loops of yarn on the surface, often on the white lines
only. See Gingham. |
| SEERSUCKER |
fabrics |
Traditional form
of cotton fabric showing crinkled/puckered stripes alternating
with flat ones of various widths which may be in different
colours and sizes. |
Traditional form
of cotton fabric showing crinkled/puckered stripes alternating
with flat ones of various widths which may be in different
colours and sizes. The stripes may be multicoloured, or
in a plain coloured fabric with a printed floral pattern
on it. Early seersucker, all cotton, was made by physically
forcing bubbles into the plain fabric, and so after a
few washes the bubbles began to flatten and, if ironed
they would certainly disappear.
Now, however, the cloth is made on a twin- beam loom which
feeds the yarns at different speeds and the puckers are
therefore woven in, i.e. a normally plain weave fabric
is produced by having two warps, one heavily tensioned
and the other comparatively slack. The crinkled stripes
are formed by the slack warp and the smooth ground by
the tight warp. Fibre content now normally includes polyester
with cotton, but it can be a nylon fabric. This is a relatively
expensive method of producing crinkled effects and the
chemical or heat shrinkage methods as mentioned in Plisse
are cheaper and more commonly used.
Used for lightweight casual clothes, such as shirts, skirts,
beachwear, aprons and for tablecloths and kitchen curtains.
Creases do not show |
| SELF-BLENDED YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A single yarn spun
from a blend or mixture of the same fibre species. |
A single yarn spun
from a blend or mixture of the same fibre species. A spun
yarn made from fibres of varied lengths or different counts
would be a self-blended yarn. See also Combination yarn,
Blended yarn. |
| SELF-BOUND SEAM-FINISH |
seams, stitches |
A finish for the
raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, in which
one seam allowance encloses both raw edges. |
|
