| RABBIT HAIR CLOTH |
fabrics |
A fabric in which
rabbit's hair is used in combination with other fibers
to give the material a soft, smooth hand. |
A fabric in which
rabbit's hair is used in combination with other fibers
to give the material a soft, smooth hand. Little or much
of the rabbit hair may appear on the surface, as desired.
It is used in varying percentages with wool and in blend
fabrics. |
| RACCROC STITCH |
|
A stitch used in
lace making to join separately made pieces together into
a larger piece. |
A stitch used in
lace making to join separately made pieces together into
a larger piece. The edges of the smaller pieces are finished
with half meshes instead of whole meshes. |
| RACE |
I F |
The cut filling
floats of pile that run warpwise in corduroy and velveteen. |
1. The cut filling
floats of pile that run warpwise in corduroy and velveteen.
After the cloth is woven, the races are cut in their center.
Later, the cut fibers are brushed up to form an all-over
pile, as in velveteen, or cords or wales, as in corduroy.
2. In the loom, the path of the shuttle on the reed. |
| RACK |
I |
In warp knitting,
a unit of length measure consisting of 480 courses. |
In warp knitting,
a unit of length measure consisting of 480 courses. On
machines with two needle-bars, 480 courses on each set
of needles |
| RACKED STITCH |
I |
In weft knitting,
a sideways-deflected stitch |
In weft knitting,
a sideways-deflected stitch that lies across a stitch
formed in the same course on the opposite needle bed. |
| RACKING |
¡ |
The movement of
one knitting bed of a rib or purl knitting machine relative
to the other |
The movement of
one knitting bed of a rib or purl knitting machine relative
to the other, either to produce deflections within the
fabric being knitted or to re-align the elements for a
different structure to that previously being knitted.
Partial racking: Less than one full needle space, may
be required to facilitate loop transfer from one bed to
the other on a rib machine. |
| RADDLE |
F |
A mechanical device
for spreading the warps evenly as they are wound onto
the beam. |
A mechanical device
for spreading the warps evenly as they are wound onto
the beam. Necessary when the loom is warped from the back
to the front. |
| RADIANT ENERGY |
o |
Energy traveling
through space in the form of photons or electromagnetic
waves of various lengths. |
Energy traveling
through space in the form of photons or electromagnetic
waves of various lengths. |
| RADIO |
fabrics |
A soft, lustrous,
sheer silk fabric |
A soft, lustrous,
sheer silk fabric made in a plain weave and dyed or printed. |
| RADIO FREQUENCY
HEATING |
processes, operations |
The use of dielectric
for heating. |
Also called RF
heating. The use of dielectric of frequencies from 3 to
300 MHz for heating. |
| RADIO PUNCHWORK |
¡ |
Openwork embroidery
made with round designs. |
Openwork embroidery
made with round designs. |
| RADIUM |
fabrics |
Plain-weave lustrous
fabric |
Plain-weave lustrous
fabric, that has the draping quality of Crêpe but
the crispness of Taffeta. The fibers used include silk,
viscose, acetate, and triacetate. Used for lingerie, robes,
blouses, and as lining fabric. Slippery to handle. |
| RAFFIA |
v |
A fiber obtained
from the leaves of the raffia palm 'raphia ruffia'. |
A fiber obtained
from the leaves of the raffia palm 'raphia ruffia'. |
| RAG PULLING |
¡ |
The reducing of
wastes, threads, and fabrics to fibrous form |
The reducing of
wastes, threads, and fabrics to fibrous form by garnetting
or by some other process appropriate for waste stock |
| RAG RUG |
z |
A rug made with
a weft of rags of cotton or wool torn into strips and
tied sewed together at the ends. |
A rug made with
a weft of rags of cotton or wool torn into strips and
tied sewed together at the ends. The warp is of heavy
cotton. May be handmade or machine-made |
| RAGLAN SLEEVE |
z |
A sleeve with the
armhole line extending from the front and back scye to
the neck point |
A sleeve with the
armhole line extending from the front and back scye to
the neck point so that the shoulder section is joined
to the sleeve crown, eliminating the conventional shoulder
and sleeve head seams. The term is used in both woven
and knitted garment construction. |
| RAGS |
I z |
Shabby or tattered
clothing, torn pieces of cloth. |
Shabby or tattered
clothing, torn pieces of cloth.
1. NEW RAGS. The waste fabric, whether or woven or knitted,
that is left after a garment has been cut out. The term
also covers piece ends and discarded pattern bunches.
2. OLD RAGS. Worn garments etc., that have been discarded. |
| RAILWAY STITCH |
|
Same as Chain stitch. |
1. Same as Chain
stitch.
2. In crocheting, same as tricot stitch.
3. See Leviathan stitch. |
| RAIN GROWN COTTON |
v |
Cotton grown under
conditions of natural rainfall. |
Cotton grown under
conditions of natural rainfall. The moisture content and
rate of growth have a definite influence upon fiber properties
and have an effect upon finishing processes such as dyeing. |
| RAIN TEST |
I |
A standard method
to measure the resistance of fabrics to the penetration
of rain. |
A standard method
to measure the resistance of fabrics to the penetration
of rain. Different hydrostatic heads are used to simulate
the effects of rainfalls of different intensities. See
Water resistance. |
| RAINBOW EFFECT |
¡ |
An effect produced
in calico printing by shading the different colored fields
into each other. |
An effect produced
in calico printing by shading the different colored fields
into each other. |
| RAINBOW YARNS |
v |
Novelty yarns made
in an ombré effect. |
Novelty yarns made
in an ombré effect. |
| RAINBOWING |
processes, operations |
The use of divided
color-box in block printing |
The use of divided
color-box in block printing, so that the color is transferred
to the block in the form of softly shaded stripes. In
French it is called Fondu. |
| RAINCOAT FABRIC |
I |
See Proofed poplin. |
See Proofed poplin. |
| RAISED BACKS |
fabrics |
A general term
for fabrics with nap raised on the back |
A general term
for fabrics with nap raised on the back, especially -cotton
fabrics such as flannelette, some pajama fabrics |
| RAISED CHECKS |
I |
A fabric figured
with extra warp on a plain ground. |
A fabric figured
with extra warp on a plain ground. |
| RAISED COLORS |
¡ |
A printing term
for colors which are treated after printing |
A printing term
for colors which are treated after printing, in a bath
which will fix or develop the color. |
| RAISED EMBROIDERY |
processes, operations |
Needlework with
raised patterns done in satin stitch over padding. |
Needlework with
raised patterns done in satin stitch over padding. Used
on table and bed linens, scallops and for monograms. Embroidery
with figures in high relief is called Stump work. |
| RAISED FABRIC |
I |
See Napped fabric. |
See Napped fabric. |
| RAISED FIBER SURFACE |
I |
In textile fabrics,
intentionally lifted fibers or yarns such as pile, napped,
tufted, flocked, or similar surfaces. |
In textile fabrics,
intentionally lifted fibers or yarns such as pile, napped,
tufted, flocked, or similar surfaces. |
| RAISED JERSEY |
I |
Term used to describe
a medium-weight knit fabric of fairly open texture, that
has been brushed on the right side to add warmth and give
an attractive fuzzy effect. |
Term used to describe
a medium-weight knit fabric of fairly open texture, that
has been brushed on the right side to add warmth and give
an attractive fuzzy effect. Often made in random color
coordinating yarns. The fiber is usually acrylic as it
lends itself particularly well to this kind of treat-ment.
Used for soft suits, dresses, and coats. |
| RAISED POINT |
I |
A needlepoint lace
with a padded motif to make it stand in relief. |
A needlepoint lace
with a padded motif to make it stand in relief. |
| RAISING |
¡ |
See Napping. |
See Napping. |
| RAISING PLAINS |
I |
A plain weave cotton
fabric made with hard spun warp and coarse, soft spun
filling. |
A plain weave cotton
fabric made with hard spun warp and coarse, soft spun
filling. |
| RAJAH |
I |
Soft, strong, plain
weave silk fabric with rough texture. |
Soft, strong, plain
weave silk fabric with rough texture. It was first made,
not in the Far East, but in the United States. Tussah
Silk was normally used, but it is now made from acetate,
triacetate, nylon, polyester. It is very similar in appearance
and weight to Pongee |
| RAMBOUILLET |
v |
Wool fiber from
a breed, which is of the largest and the strongest bodied
wool sheep |
Wool fiber from
a breed, which is of the largest and the strongest bodied
wool sheep. This is a pure descendant of Spanish merino.
Fiber length is 11/2 to 3 inches. Shrinkage averages about
60 %. |
| RAMIE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
yarn. Also known
as China-grass, Rhea. It a strong, vegetable bast fiber. |
Yarn. Also known
as China-grass, Rhea. It a strong, vegetable bast fiber.
Ramie consists of the bast fibers from the green-leafed
ramie ('Bohemeria nivea'), and the white-leafed ramie
('Bohemeria tenacissima'). Lacks flexibility and elasticity.
Very lustrous, bleaches to a beautiful white and is extremely
durable.
Fabric. Also called China grass and Nettle cloth. An old
Chinese fabric woven from ramie fibers. An uneven weave,
but a very fine transparent fabric once used a great deal
in China as a basis for embroidered table linen. Launders
and starches well. Very similar in appearance to Pineapple
cloth. |
| RANDOM DYEING |
processes, operations |
A method of dyeing
yarn |
A method of dyeing
yarn where the color is applied to small areas in a random
manner with some portions in one color and other portions
in other color or white. May be done by Tie-dyeing. |
| RANDOM LINKING |
¡ |
Linking in which,
when stitching pieces of fabric together, no attempt is
made to stitch through adjacent loops. |
Linking in which,
when stitching pieces of fabric together, no attempt is
made to stitch through adjacent loops. |
| RANDOM RANGE |
I |
See Pattern blanket. |
See Pattern blanket. |
| RANDOM SAMPLING |
¡ |
The process of
selecting units for a sample of size 'n' |
The process of
selecting units for a sample of size 'n' in such a manner
that all combinations of 'n' units under consideration
have an equal or ascertainable chance of being selected
as the sample. Same as Simple random sampling and Sampling
at random. |
| RANDOM SHEAR |
I |
The pile of a rug
which has been cut (sheared) so that the pile is in varied,
random lengths. |
1. The pile of
a rug which has been cut (sheared) so that the pile is
in varied, random lengths. This kind of texture is intended
to ensure a bright lustre and soil-hiding properties.
2. A planned shearing or clipping of loops in parts of
a textured effect. May be called sculpturing as in carpeting,
velvet, velveteen and some silk fabrics. Clipped loops
in some parts of a motif and un-cut loops in other parts
gives a richness of texture to the cloth, particularly
for eveningwear. |
| RANDOM SLUB |
v |
A slub yarn with
the thick places in a variety of lengths and thicknesses
and distributed at random in the yarn |
A slub yarn with
the thick places in a variety of lengths and thicknesses
and distributed at random in the yarn |
| RANDOM WINDING |
¡ |
A method of winding
cones and cheeses |
A method of winding
cones and cheeses in which the angle of wind is constant
and the wind decreases as the package diameter increases. |
| RANDOM YARN |
v |
A novelty yarn |
1. A novelty yarn
made by twisting one colored strand around a different
colored core.
2. Sometimes applied to varicolored yarn. |
| RAPID AGER |
F |
See under Ageing. |
See under Ageing. |
| RAPIER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A device for inserting
filling |
A device for inserting
filling from the side of the loom during weaving. |
| RAPIER LOOM |
F |
See under Shuttleless
looms. |
See under Shuttleless
looms. |
| RAS |
I |
A general term
in French used for plain weave solid colored fabric made
with nap |
A general term
in French used for plain weave solid colored fabric made
with nap. Commonly made in wool. |
| RASCHEL KNIT |
fabrics |
Name of this type
of knitted fabric derived from the name of the machine
on which this is produced. The Raschel machine uses latch
needles set in a vertical plane |
Name of this type
of knitted fabric derived from the name of the machine
on which this is produced. The Raschel machine uses latch
needles set in a vertical plane and produces a wide variety
of fabrics, particularly heavier and complex structures.
Fabrics are not of conventional knit construction, but
appears to be partly woven in texture. These fabrics are
often printed; and some are very transparent; they have
some 'give', but only a little, are attractive, wear well
and do not crease. The fiber content is polyester. Used
for blouses, dresses, curtains, bedspreads, depending
on design. See also under Knitting. |
| RASMUSSEN PROCESS |
processes, operations |
A technique of
making a bonded-fiber fabric |
A technique of
making a bonded-fiber fabric. A sheet of polyethylene
or polypropylene is stretched lengthwise to orient its
molecular chains. When disintegrated into fibrous form,
the fine fibers are relatively parallel to each other.
Two or three layers of fibers are spot-welded together. |
| RAT-TAIL CORD |
w |
Also called American
cord |
Also called American
cord. A tubular woven cord usually of satin construction. |
| RATCHET LOCK SLIDER |
F |
In zippers, a slider
with a locking mechanism |
In zippers, a slider
with a locking mechanism that permits the slider to slip
along the chain upon application of a predetermined force
so as to prevent damage that would impair either the service
or use of either the slider or chain. |
| RATE OF DYEING |
³ |
The rate at which
a dye is absorbed |
The rate at which
a dye is absorbed by a substrate under specified conditions. |
| RATINÉ |
I |
French word meaning
'fuzzy'. A rough, pebbly woolen fabric made of novelty
yarns with a fancy twist, and similar in finished appearance
to Chinchilla. |
French word meaning
'fuzzy'. A rough, pebbly woolen fabric made of novelty
yarns with a fancy twist, and similar in finished appearance
to Chinchilla.
Plain weave with an uneven surface due to the use of fancy
yarns usually of the spiral or loop type. These give a
randomly uneven surface effect varying in coarseness according
to the weight of fabric. Used for men's overcoats. Basically
this is a coating fabric but dress or suiting weights
can be made. |
| RATINÉ LACE |
I |
Machine-made lace,
the groundwork of which consists of heavy loops rather
than mesh. |
Machine-made lace,
the groundwork of which consists of heavy loops rather
than mesh. |
| RATINÉ YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A curly knotty
plied yarn |
A curly knotty
plied yarn made with one heavy and one or more fine single
yarns twisted together under uneven tension; the heavy
yarn is fed more freely, producingloops or nubs. |
| RATING |
w ¡ |
A quantitative
or qualitative scale for evaluation of a specific property. |
1. A quantitative
or qualitative scale for evaluation of a specific property.
2. The process for determining or assigning a grade to
a material by comparing it to a standard ref-erence scale. |
| RAVEL COURSES |
¡ |
See Roving courses. |
See Roving courses. |
| RAVELING |
v ¡ |
A loose yarn that
has been partially or wholly detached from a cloth. |
A loose yarn that
has been partially or wholly detached from a cloth.
The process of removing the yarns consecutively from the
fabric. |
| RAVENSDUCK |
I |
A very heavy linen
fabric in 2/1 twill weaves, such as a sailcloth. |
A very heavy linen
fabric in 2/1 twill weaves, such as a sailcloth. |
| RAW |
general |
textile materials
in their natural state. |
Term applied to
textile materials in their natural state. |
| RAW COTTON |
v |
Ginned lint that
has not been subjected to any textile manufacturing process. |
Ginned lint that
has not been subjected to any textile manufacturing process.
See also Ginned lint. |
| RAW EDGE |
I |
Unfinished edge
of a fabric, which may ravel. |
Unfinished edge
of a fabric, which may ravel. |
| RAW SEAM |
|
A visible line
made by joining two parts of a fabric |
A visible line
made by joining two parts of a fabric by placing two cut
(raw) edges of fabric together and stitching them. |
| RAW SILK |
v |
Continuous filaments
or strands containing no twist, |
Continuous filaments
or strands containing no twist, as it has been reeled
from silk cocoons. |
| RAW STOCK |
v |
Unprocessed fiber
in the natural state. |
Unprocessed fiber
in the natural state. See Raw. |
| RAW STOCK DYEING |
¡ |
The process of
dyeing fibers in a mass before spinning or weaving. |
The process of
dyeing fibers in a mass before spinning or weaving. |
| RAW WOOL |
v |
Wool or hair of
the sheep in the grease, pulled, or scoured state. |
Wool or hair of
the sheep in the grease, pulled, or scoured state. |
| RAWKINESS |
defects |
Streakiness in
a fabric |
Streakiness in
a fabric due to uneven, irregular yarns. |
| RAYLEIGH |
I |
Irregular bars
in guipure lace |
Irregular bars
in guipure lace |
| RAYON FIBER |
v |
The earliest man-made
fiber, from cellulose such as wood or cotton. |
1. The earliest
man-made fiber, from cellulose such as wood or cotton.
A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose,
as well as manufactured fibers composed of regenerated
cellulose in which substituents have replaced not more
than 15 % of the hydrogens of the hydroxyl groups.
This definition includes three types of regenerated cellulose
fiber, Viscose, Modal and Cupro.
2. The term Rayon is used in some manufacturing countries
for any manufactured cellulose fiber, including, in some
cases, fibers composed of cellulose acetate. |
| RAYON FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
man-made fiber,
from cellulose such as wood or cotton |
1. The earliest
man-made fiber, from cellulose such as wood or cotton.
A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose,
as well as manufactured fibers composed of regenerated
cellulose in which substituents have replaced not more
than 15 % of the hydrogens of the hydroxyl groups. This
definition includes three types of regenerated cellulose
fiber, Viscose, Modal and Cupro. 2. The term Rayon is
used in some manufacturing countries for any manufactured
cellulose fiber, including, in some cases, fibers composed
of cellulose acetate |
| RAYON STAPLE |
v |
Short rayon fiber
of spinnable length manufactured directly or by cutting
large groups of continuous filaments. |
Short rayon fiber
of spinnable length manufactured directly or by cutting
large groups of continuous filaments. Generally measures
to 1 to 20 denier and is usually produced in lengths of
1 to 5 inches. Spun into yarns of different textures and
sizes. Often it is blended with natural and other man-made
fibers. In general, the lengths and thicknesses are comparable
with natural fibers. Rayon staple does not include cut
rayon waste |
| RAYON STRAW |
v |
A ribbon-like filament
of viscose rayon. |
A ribbon-like filament
of viscose rayon. It is folded and resembles straw. |
| RAYON TOW |
v |
A tow composed
of parallel filaments of continuous lengths |
A tow composed
of parallel filaments of continuous lengths, which will
be used for processing into yarns by any of several tow-conversion
methods. It is also used for flock. |
| RAYON-HP |
v |
High performance,
or improved kinds of rayon. |
High performance,
or improved kinds of rayon. These types will include high
tenacity and high-wet modulus |
| RAZ |
I |
Solid colored wool
serge |
Solid colored wool
serge |
| RE |
v |
See Residual Elongation. |
See Residual Elongation. |
| RE-ANIMALIZING |
¡ |
A process which
was used for weighting silk |
A process which
was used for weighting silk and supposedly to strengthen
the fiber by immersion in a bath containing phosphate
of soda with glue or casein. |
| RE-EMBROIDERED
LACE |
I |
Flat lace that
has been re-worked with another intricate design using
a variety of threads. |
Flat lace that
has been re-worked with another intricate design using
a variety of threads. An elaborate and expensive fabric,
due to the two operations involved. |
| REACTION SPINNING |
processes, operations |
A process of fiber
production |
A process of fiber
production in which polymerization is achieved during
the extrusion of one set of reactants into another set
of reactants. |
| REACTIVE DYES |
³ |
These are dyes
that, under suitable conditions, are capable of reacting
chemically with cellulose fibers. |
These are dyes
that, under suitable conditions, are capable of reacting
chemically with cellulose fibers. This produces a covalent
dye-fiber bond, which gives dyeings and prints of excellent
washing fastness. May be used on wool, silk and nylon
with varying degrees of fastness properties. The differences
in reactivity of different shades of dyes are indicated,
usually by using different letters, e.g. 'Procion M' (more
reactive) and 'Procion H' (less reactive) dyes. Reactive
dyes are suitable for cotton, linen, wool, silk, viscose
rayon, and cuprammonium rayon fibers. |
| REAVY YARN |
v |
A yarn made by
twisting together a single and two-ply yarn |
A yarn made by
twisting together a single and two-ply yarn. Also see
Reamy yarn. |
| RECESS SHEARING |
¡ |
See Hollow-cut
velveteen. |
See Hollow-cut
velveteen. |
| RECLAIMED TEXTILE
FIBERS |
v |
A broad term which
includes: extract wool, mungo, noil, reprocessed wool,
reused wool, shoddy, etc. |
A broad term which
includes: extract wool, mungo, noil, reprocessed wool,
reused wool, shoddy, etc. |
| RECLAIMED WOOL |
v |
This broad term
implies wool obtained from various sources |
This broad term
implies wool obtained from various sources; clippings,
reprocessed wool, shoddy, mungo, extract wool, etc. |
| RECLINING TWILL |
fabrics |
A twill weave |
A twill weave which
produces a twill line running at an angle less than 45°. |
| RECOMBING |
¡ |
A second combing
of worsted tops for removing vegetable particles that
were not removed by the first combing. |
A second combing
of worsted tops for removing vegetable particles that
were not removed by the first combing. This process improves
the ease with which the tops may be handled in further
processing. |
| RECOMMENDED ALLOWANCE |
o |
The percentage
that, in the calculation of commercial mass of textile
material and of yarn linear density is added to the oven-dry
mass. |
The percentage
that, in the calculation of commercial mass of textile
material and of yarn linear density is added to the oven-dry
mass. The determination of this mass may or may not have
been preceded by washing to remove natural or added oils
and dressings. The recommended allowance is arbitrarily
chosen according to commercial practice and includes the
moisture regain. It may also include the normal finish
that is added to impart satisfactory textile qualities
to the material. |
| RECONSTITUTED FIBERS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibers produced
from recovered waste polymer |
Fibers produced
from recovered waste polymer or blends of virgin polymer
and recovered waste polymer. |
| RECOVERABLE ELONGATION |
o |
In rope, elongation
which may be reclaimed after a period of relaxation. |
In rope, elongation
which may be reclaimed after a period of relaxation. |
| RECOVERED WOOL |
v |
SeeReused wool. |
SeeReused wool. |
| RECOVERY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
ability of a yarn
or fiber to return to its original length |
The ability of
a yarn or fiber to return to its original length after
it has been stretched. |
| RECYCLED WOOL |
v |
The resulting fiber
when wool has been woven or felted into a wool product |
The resulting fiber
when wool has been woven or felted into a wool product
which, without ever having been utilized in any way by
the ultimate consumer, subsequently has been made into
a fibrous state, or the resulting fiber when wool or reprocessed
wool has been spun, woven, knitted, or felted into a wool
product which, after having been used in any way by the
ultimate consumer, subsequently has been made into a fibrous
state. |
| REDEPOSITION |
processes, operations |
The tendency of
soil, already removed from the fabric and being in suspension
to go back on the fabric, |
1. The tendency
of soil, already removed from the fabric and being in
suspension to go back on the fabric, thus lowering the
fabric's retention of whiteness. 2. In laundering of fabrics,
deposition of soil, dirt or grime on fabrics when the
wash water has a high percentage of dirt, etc. that has
already been removed in washing |
| REDOUBLING |
¡ |
An operation combined
with 'doubling' that is necessary in making even, uniform
yarn. |
An operation combined
with 'doubling' that is necessary in making even, uniform
yarn. See Dou-bling. |
| REDUCTION |
¡ |
In textile technology,
this term is confined to the removal of oxygen from a
substance, or the addition of hydrogen |
In textile technology,
this term is confined to the removal of oxygen from a
substance, or the addition of hydrogen |
| REDUCTION CLEARING |
processes, operations |
Removal of unfixed
dyestuff |
Removal of unfixed
dyestuff, usually disperse, by alkali/reducing system,
usually sodium hydroxide/sodium dithionite. |
| REED |
F |
In a loom, a comb-like
wired frame through which warp yarns pass. |
In a loom, a comb-like
wired frame through which warp yarns pass. Each partition
is a 'dent'. It separates the warp yarns and is used during
weaving to beat-up the weft yarn into the cloth after
each passage of weft yarn across the loom |
| REED GRATINGS |
F |
Transparent plates
containing lines that are parallel and uniformly spaced
in the cross-wise direction. |
Transparent plates
containing lines that are parallel and uniformly spaced
in the cross-wise direction. By placing an appropriate
grating on a reed it is possible to see if there is any
irregularity in the spacing of the reed wires. Reed gratings
can also be used for counting the number of reed wires
per unit distance. See also Parallel line gratings. |
| REED MARK |
t |
Fabric defect in
woven fabrics. |
Fabric defect in
woven fabrics. A crack, streak, line, or mark between
groups of warp ends, either continuous or at intervals.
Caused mainly due to crowded dents, open dents, improper
warp tension, worn out reed, loose reed wires, incorrect
reeding, etc. |
| REED NUMBER |
F |
The number of dents
per unit length of the reed. |
The number of dents
per unit length of the reed. |
| REED OMBRÉ |
processes, operations |
A woven ombré
effect produced in the reed |
A woven ombré
effect generally produced in the reed by a variation in
warp pattern from open to close and then from close to
open. Appears almost as shading running warpwise. |
| REED RAKE |
t |
A defect in fabric
similar to a pin scratch. |
A defect in fabric
similar to a pin scratch. |
| REED WIDTH |
I |
The width of the
warp as it lies in the loom prior to the weaving. |
The width of the
warp as it lies in the loom prior to the weaving. |
| REEDINESS |
t |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
A noticeable grouping of warp threads due to the reed
wires producing warp-way cracks. It can be caused by the
use of a reed unsuited to the fabric construction employed. |
| REEDING PLAN |
I |
Also called Denting
plan, Sleying plan. |
Also called Denting
plan, Sleying plan. A plan indicating the arrangement
of warp yarns into the reed dents, in one weave repeat. |
| REEDY CLOTH |
defects |
A defective fabric
that shows reed marks. |
A defective fabric
that shows reed marks. There are several causes such as
drawing an insufficient number of warp yarns through each
dent, too heavy a reed, improper finish, irregular reeding. |
| REEDY WARP |
t |
See Reed mark. |
See Reed mark. |
| REEL |
v |
See Hank. |
1. See Hank.
2. A cylindrical former, usually flanged, suitable for
use with domestic sewing machines, onto which sewing thread
is wound.
3. The revolving drum, mill or swift of a section warping
machine. |
| REEL DYEING |
processes, operations |
A form of open
box dyeing |
A form of open
box dyeing used especially for light fabrics to avoid
tension on the goods or for crêpe to avoid flattening.
Also used on woolen goods |
| REELED SILK |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Raw silk wound
directly from the cocoons into skeins |
Raw silk wound
directly from the cocoons into skeins. The yarn has only
a slight twist, and has not yet been twisted or thrown.
Raw silk is usually marketed in this form |
| REELING |
¡ |
The process of
unwinding raw silk from the unbroken cocoons, which have
been placed in hot water |
1. The process
of unwinding raw silk from the unbroken cocoons, which
have been placed in hot water, and reeling filaments from
several cocoons as a single thread, without any twist,
held firm by the natural gum which coats the silk filaments.
This is the first process in preparing silk yarn.
2. Unwinding of yarn from bobbins or cones, etc. and rewinding
it in the form of a skein or hank. |
| REELING MACHINE |
F |
Also called Hanking
machine. A revolving frame onto which a number of hanks
or skeins or reels of yarn are wound simultaneously. |
Also called Hanking
machine. A revolving frame onto which a number of hanks
or skeins or reels of yarn are wound simultaneously. The
frame normally comprises a number of parallel bars, some
of or all of which are collapsible to facilitate removal
of the wound hank, mounted circumferentially on a cylindrical
form. Traversing yarn guides provide a pattern which enables
the hank to be leased so that it can be unwound without
entanglement after storage or, e.g. wet processing. |
| REFINE |
I |
A napped woolen
fabric of fine quality, mainly used for livery. |
A napped woolen
fabric of fine quality, mainly used for livery. |
| REFINISHING |
processes, operations |
treatment, such
as steaming and pressing, given to a textile fabric |
Any treatment,
such as steaming and pressing, given to a textile fabric
to restore the finish. |
| REFRACTION |
o |
The deflection
from a straight path undergone by a light ray in passing
obliquely from one medium (as air) into another (as glass)
in which its velocity is different. |
The deflection
from a straight path undergone by a light ray in passing
obliquely from one medium (as air) into another (as glass)
in which its velocity is different. |
| REFRACTIVE INDEX |
o |
The ratio of the
velocity of radiation (as light) in the first of two media
to its velocity in the second as it passes from one into
the other. |
The ratio of the
velocity of radiation (as light) in the first of two media
to its velocity in the second as it passes from one into
the other. |
| REFURBISH |
processes, operations |
To brighten or
freshen up and restore to wearability |
To brighten or
freshen up and restore to wearability or use by cleaning
such as Dry cleaning, Laundering, or Steam cleaning. |
| REGAIN |
v |
See Moisture regain. |
See Moisture regain. |
| REGATTA |
I |
A striped cotton-type
fabric woven in 2/1 twill. |
A striped cotton-type
fabric woven in 2/1 twill. The pattern consists of fast-dyed
color and white in warp stripes of equal width. The fabric
has a white undyed weft. |
| REGENERATED CELLULOSE
FIBERS |
v |
See Rayon fiber,
Viscose fiber, Modal fiber and Cupro fiber. |
See Rayon fiber,
Viscose fiber, Modal fiber and Cupro fiber. |
| REGENERATED FIBER |
v |
See under Fiber. |
See under Fiber. |
| REGENERATED PROTEIN
FIBERS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibers made from
the protein of peanuts, maize, soya beans and milk |
Fibers made from
the protein of peanuts, maize, soya beans and milk. They
all possess wool-like characteristics of softness, warmth
and resilience but it has not yet been found possible
to produce a fiber of this type sufficiently strong to
be used alone. Very little of this type of fiber is being
manufactured in bulk |
| REGIMENTAL STRIPE |
I |
A textile pattern
consisting of wide stripes of color different from the
ground of the fabric. |
A textile pattern
consisting of wide stripes of color different from the
ground of the fabric. The colors of most of these stripes
were taken from colors of Britsh regiments. Used primarily
for neck-wear and hat bands. |
| REGINA |
I |
A fine cotton good
quality 2/1 twill weave fabric. |
A fine cotton good
quality 2/1 twill weave fabric. Two fold yarns may be
used and the fabric is around 100 g/m2. |
| REGISTERING |
¡ |
See Pitching |
See Pitching |
| REGISTRATION |
¡ |
The correct fitting
together of all areas and colors in a printed fabric |
The correct fitting
together of all areas and colors in a printed fabric |
| REGULAR FINISHES |
I |
See Basic finishes
under Finish. |
See Basic finishes
under Finish. |
| REGULAR TWILL |
fabrics |
A trade term for
a twill weave |
A trade term for
a twill weave that produces diagonal lines running 45º
angles without any fancy figures. |
| REGULAR TWIST |
v |
For cotton same
as 'Z' twist. |
For cotton same
as 'Z' twist. For wool, same as 'S' twist. |
| REINFORCED HOSIERY |
I |
Hosiery with a
reinforced heel and toe knitted with an extra and sometimes
coarser yarn. |
Hosiery with a
reinforced heel and toe knitted with an extra and sometimes
coarser yarn. A later development has been the use of
nylon reinforcement in the toe and heel of both cotton
and wool hose to increases the abrasion resistance. |
| REINFORCED SEAM |
|
In sewn seams,
a seam that includes an additional layer of material |
In sewn seams,
a seam that includes an additional layer of material on
the face or backside of the seam allowance. |
| REINFORCED TWILLS |
fabrics |
Combinations of
regular twill and plain weaves. |
Combinations of
regular twill and plain weaves. Generally warp-faced,
with the twill line running from lower right to upper
left. The fabrics are bleached or dyed and used for dresses. |
| REJECTION NUMBER |
o |
In acceptance sampling,
the minimum number of nonconforming items in a sample |
In acceptance sampling,
the minimum number of nonconforming items in a sample
that requires the conclusion that the lot does not conform
to specification. |
| RELATED SHDES |
o |
Colors of similar
tone in the same or different depths of color. |
Colors of similar
tone in the same or different depths of color. |
| RELATIVE HUMIDITY |
o |
The ratio of the
water vapour present in an atmosphere to the amount present
in a saturated atmosphere at the same temperature. |
The ratio of the
water vapour present in an atmosphere to the amount present
in a saturated atmosphere at the same temperature. It
is generally expressed as a percentage. |
| RELAXATION |
¡ |
Releasing of strains
in textile materials. |
Releasing of strains
in textile materials.
1. The relief of any strain present in fiber, yarn or
fabric resulting from all stages of processing, nec-essary
to impart dimensional stability to the final textile material.
2. An operation performed on a knitted sweater made of
textured filament nylon yarn. This is a form of conditioning
a fabric that is important to effective dyeing, shape,
final appearance, and dimen-sional stability. Relaxation
from tension is obtained by washing sweaters in a solution
of soap and water or non-ionic detergent for five minutes
at 90º F., then rinsing for two minutes. |
| RELAXATION DIMENSIONAL
CHANGE |
I |
The dimensional
change that occurs when a fabric is immersed in water
without agitation |
The dimensional
change that occurs when a fabric is immersed in water
without agitation so that the strains and stresses put
into fibers, yarns, or fabrics during previous processing
stages such as spinning, weaving, or knitting, and finishing
are relieved. |
| RELAXED STATE |
I |
in knit fabric,
the dimensional state of a fabric when the forces within
the loop structure are in equilibrium |
In knit fabric,
the dimensional state of a fabric when the forces within
the loop structure are in equilibrium and it is considered
that the fabric can consolidate no more, without the application
of force. |
| RELAXED YARN |
v |
A filament yarn
of nylon or polyester which has been subjected to a yarn
relaxation treatment. |
A filament yarn
of nylon or polyester which has been subjected to a yarn
relaxation treatment. The treatment imparts uniform dyeing
characteristics to the yarn and an also reduces and equalizes
shrinkage and torque. |
| RELEASING SLIDER |
F |
In zippers, a slider
with a mechanical means for loosening the slider on the
chain. |
In zippers, a slider
with a mechanical means for loosening the slider on the
chain. |
| RELEASING STOP |
F |
In zippers, a device
attached at or near the top of the stringer on the separable
pin side which limits the travel of the slider at the
open end of the chain under normal closing operations. |
In zippers, a device
attached at or near the top of the stringer on the separable
pin side which limits the travel of the slider at the
open end of the chain under normal closing operations.
The slider may be forced beyond the releasing stop when
added force is exerted towards the top of the zipper.
Releasing stops are used on QR or QD zippers. |
| RELIEF FABRIC |
fabrics |
Also known as Blister
fabric and Cloqué fabric. A patterned rib-based
fabric, |
Also known as Blister
fabric and Cloqué fabric. A patterned rib-based
fabric, the surface of which exhibits a characteristic
relief or blister effect in which the number of loops
in the relief portion is greater than in the surrounding
area on the effect side and on the reverse side. The relief
area may be of a different color from the main ground
and the ground also is patterned. |
| RELIEF PRINTING |
¡ |
A method in which
only the high parts of engraved plates are inked and printed |
A method in which
only the high parts of engraved plates are inked and printed.
Opposite to intaglio printing. Also see Cameo printing
and Surface printing. |
| REMANUFACTURED
WOOL |
v |
This is wool which
has been used or processed before, as opposed to 'virgin
wool' or 'pure new wool' which is wool being used for
the first time. |
This is wool which
has been used or processed before, as opposed to 'virgin
wool' or 'pure new wool' which is wool being used for
the first time. Wool and to some extent, hairs, have the
capacity to be used more than once and in view of the
cost of new wool, this is a distinct practical advantage
which is not shared by any other textile fiber type.
There are three main sources of raw materials for this
industry:
Shoddy: Fibers obtained by shredding 'soft' rags, i.e.
knitted or loosely woven wool fabrics.
Mungo: Fibers obtained by shredding 'hard' rags, i.e.
closely woven or thick heavily milled fabrics.
Noils: The shorter fibers of the wool staple extracted
during the worsted combing process.
The rags used to obtain shoddy and mungo fibers are either
old fabrics or new clippings but in re-ducing the rags
to fibers there is considerable fiber damage and breakage.
These fibers then are short, and vary considerably in
thickness and quality and lack the full qualities of resilience
and softness which new wool possesses. Noils are better
in that the fibers are merely shorter than aver-age and
not damaged, but they are not fully representative of
the quality of wool from which they were extracted.
Due to the shortness of shoddy and mungo fibers they would
be difficult to hold securely in a yarn and would easily
be rubbed out in use so that the fabric would gradually
disintegrate in wear. It is easy to see therefore how
the term shoddy came to represent something poor in quality.
These fibers are mostly blended with new wool to prevent
rapid loss of fibers. In this use they are a valuable
contribution to the textile industry because if they are
skillfully used, attractive medium and low priced woolen
fabrics can be made which have sufficient durability,
particularly for fashion garments. Fabrics so made are
not obviously inferior and at present state of legislature
can be la-belled 'all wool' in many countries. Hair noils
can be used as a fiber content in a fabric and labelled
as the hair so that the fiber name in itself on the label
is no clear guarantee of quality. Many coun-tries demands
clear labeling distinguishing between new, re-used, and
re-processed fibers. |
| REMBRANDT RIB |
I |
A knitted vertical-rib
effect in women's hosiery |
A knitted vertical-rib
effect in women's hosiery made by alternating five drop
stitches and one inch of plain knitting. |
| REMNANTS |
I |
In the marketing
of textile material, those accumulated short odd lengths
of cloth, remaining from original full-length piece. |
In the marketing
of textile material, those accumulated short odd lengths
of cloth, remaining from original full-length piece. See
also Fents. |
| RENAISSANCE CLOTH |
I |
A French term for
fabric made from reclaimed wool. |
A French term for
fabric made from reclaimed wool. |
| RENAISSANCE LACE |
I |
Motifs joined by
a variety of stitches. |
Motifs joined by
a variety of stitches. |
| REP |
I |
See Repp. |
See Repp. |
| REP STITCH |
|
A canvas stitch
that is worked vertically on double-thread canvas. |
A canvas stitch
that is worked vertically on double-thread canvas. Also
called Aubusson stitch. See also Canvas stitch. |
| REPCO PROCESS |
¡ |
See under False
twisting. |
See under False
twisting. |
| REPEAT |
I ¡ |
IN WEAVING. A
pattern which is repeated in the fabric weave. |
1. IN WEAVING.
A pattern which is repeated in the fabric weave.
2. IN PRINTING. The exact reproduction of any unit of
design placed in an accurate geometric rela-tionship to
it. An example for this is the Square Repeat. |
| REPELLENT |
general |
Possessing the
property of resistance. |
Possessing the
property of resistance. Special finishes impart various
types of repellency to textiles, e.g. water repellency,
stain, oil, and moth. |
|
