| Paan Shaped |
The term used to describe a design in the shape of a betel-leaf. |
| PA Cotton |
Acronym for ‘Partially acetylated cotton’.
|
| Pack |
1. In man-made fibre spinning, a replaceable assembly, usually comprising of filter media, spreader plates, and one or more spinnerets.
2. A bundle arranged for convenience in carrying especially on the back.
|
| Package |
A length of yarn wound on a carrier or bobbin. . |
| Package Build |
The term used to describe, the manner in which yarn coils are arranged on a package. e |
| Package Dyeing |
A method of dyeing yarn, in which the liquor is made to circulate radially through the wound yarn packages. The yarn is wound uniformly on perforated cones or cheeses and the packages are then placed in a special dyeing machine in which the liquor is circulated through the yarn alternately from the outside of the package to the centre and then from the centre to the outside of the package. |
| Packing Defects In Garment |
Given below is a list of defects that might occur in a garment, during the packing stage:
1. Garments not buttoned, zipped, or otherwise closed (or vice-versa).
2. Labels not showing where required.
3. Garment not correctly positioned in box.
4. Too many garments in box or hanging wardrobe (during delivery).
5. Hanging garments crushed and distorted in warehouse.
|
| Pack Sack |
A case, as of canvas, held on the back by shoulder straps and used to carry gear when travelling on foot |
| Pad |
1. The term describes a stiffing, wadding, soft mass, cushion, etc.
2. It is also an abbreviated form for Padding.
|
| Padazoic |
A little known dyestuff that was used in the late 1960's and early 1970's instead of indigo when
there was insufficient indigo production throughout the world to support the demand..
|
| Padder |
A set of squeeze rollers used to impregnate any fabric with a liquid by continuous passage of the fabric through the liquid and then between the rollers. |
| Padding |
A process whereby fabric is passed through which contains chemicals, and is then squeezed between heavy rollers to remove excess liquor. This process can be utilized in either the dyeing or the finishing of fabrics. The impregnation of a substrate with a liquor or paste followed by squeezing, usually by passing the substrate through a nip to leave a specific quantity of liquor or paste on the substrate. |
| Padding Mangle |
A form of mangle for the impregnation of textiles in open width in which the textile is passed through one or more nips. The textile may be saturated before passing through the nip, or impregnating liquid may be carried as a film on the surface of one of the bowls forming the nip. |
| Padding Solution |
The chemical solution applied to the fabric by a padding machine, which is used in many operations such as dyeing, finishing and impregnation. |
| Padding Stitch |
A herringbone or zigzag basting stitch that is helpful in the shaping of a garment. |
| Paddle Dyeing |
A method of dyeing clothing, hosiery and other small pieces while packaged loosely in mesh bags. The dyeing machine consists of an open tank and revolving paddles, which circulate the bags in the dyeing bath. |
| Paddle Hand |
Also called a pocket hand. A hand lacking in anatomical details that resembles a shaped thumb less mitten that fits into a pocket and presents a smooth outline of a hand rather than bumps and knuckles. It is also flatter and more tapered to fit into and out of pockets. |
| Paddock |
Term describes a worsted fabric, which resembles gabardine in weight and moisture repellence. Commonly seen at racecourses. |
| Pad-dyeing |
Applying a dye liquor to textiles, either by passing the material through a bath and then squeezing out the excess with heavy rollers or by passing it between squeeze rollers, the bottom one of which carries the liquor paste. |
| Pad-steam Continuous Dyeing |
A speedy pad-dyeing process, which operates at high temperatures and is used mainly to apply vat dyes in approximately one-tenth the time required for batch methods like jig dyeing and pad dyeing. |
| Paduasoy |
A corded silk fabric. A garment made of paduasoy fabric, namely a corded silk fabric. |
| Paillette |
The French name for a very small type of sequin. |
| Paillette Satin |
It is characterized by its changeable colour and is available in a variety of different colours. It was originally executed in silk but is now made with manufactured fibres. |
| Painted Cloth |
1. A canvas with various mottoes painted in oil. Used for wall hangings.
2. Any fabric with hand-painted designs.
|
| Paints |
Textile paints that stay on the surface of the fabric; they are usually acrylic and water-based. They need to be heat-set with an iron, in a professional drier, or set with a no-heat fixative. |
| Pairhaniphiran |
Loose cloak-like shirt reaching down to the feet. Very popular as an article of wear in Kashmir where it was made mostly of woollen cloth. |
| Paisley |
Originally only from Scotland, ‘paisley’ meant a shawl made in fine soft woollen yarn, with a woven design derived from Indian patterns. Fine fabric, always with scroll designs. The true Paisely cloth is very expensive. Now, anything of any fibre or mixture printed with the traditional elaborate multicoloured scrolls is described as paisley design. |
| Pak-nit |
Mechanical dry system of compressive shrinkage used to make tubular knit goods dimensionally stable; calenders are eliminated. |
| Palampores |
Indian hand-painted cotton fabric with fairly large size designs; often patterned with ‘Tree of life’ motifs. Used for bedcovers, hangings and framed. |
| Palatine |
1. A fur cape or stole covering the neck and shoulders.
2. Little fur stole which takes its name from the Princess Palatine who, during the hard winter of 1676, wore a fur as a cravat.
|
| Paletot |
A man's overcoat; a loose jacket worn by women and children. |
| Palghat Mat |
A fine Indian sleeping mat made from the leaves of the sedge cyperus laevigatus. |
| Pallet |
Wood or plastic base for securing large quantities of merchandise during shipping. |
| Pallette |
One of the plates at the armpits of a suit of armour |
| Pallium |
A white woollen band with pendants in front and back worn over the chasuble by a pope or archbishop as a symbol of full Episcopal authority; a rectangular cloth worn as a cloak by men of ancient Greece and Rome. |
| Palm Beach Cloth E |
Trade name for a tropical fabric, a lightweight summer suiting for men's and women's wear, more than fifty years ago. It was made with cotton warp and mohair filling; since its origin fibre variations and blends of many types have superseded the original fabric. |
| Palm Fibre |
A general term sometimes applied to any fibres obtained from the plants or trees of the palm family, e.g. palma, palmetto, palmyra, piassaca, etc. |
| Palmering |
A finishing treatment to give mellowness to the hand of the fabrics. The equipment consists of a large, steam-heated cylinder covered with an endless papermaker’s felt apron. The material is
led between two continuous aprons and the heat, aided by the smoothness of the aprons, will give the fabrics a smooth, calendered effect, which is more appealing than an ordinary calender finish.
|
| Pan Fibre |
A fibre composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain at least 85% (by mass) of recurring cyanoethene (acrylonitrile) groups. |
| Panama |
Very lightweight fabric used for men’s summer and tropical wear and women’s dresses. The yarns used are cotton and worsted in the traditional Panama cloth, although other fibres such as polyester and viscose are sometimes used. The cloth has a recognisable square-weave effect, and is usually in plain colours. Also a crisp plain woven worsted wool, sometimes resembling the texture of Panama hat. |
| Panama Canvas |
A canvas of matt weave that is given a beetled finish. |
| Panama Hat |
Men’s and women’s straw hat made from fine, hand-plaited, creamy coloured toquilla straw. Panama hats are mainly made in Ecuador. |
| Panama Straw |
A fine hand-plaited, creamy coloured Tequila straw used for men's and women's hats, made, curiously enough, primarily in Equador. . |
| Panama Weave S |
A weave, which consists of several warp and weft threads crossing each other at once, producing a mat-like effect. |
| Panels |
Knitted hosiery swatches or panels used for testing purposes. |
| Paniers |
Underskirts stretched over metal hoops, which appeared around 1718-20 in France and remained in fashion under various forms until the French revolution. |
| Panné |
A satin-faced velvet or silk material named from the French for ‘plush.’ which has a high lustre made possible by the tremendous roller-pressure treatment given the material in finishing. Panné velvet is often referred to as panné. Panne is a French word meaning plush. It resembles velvet but has a much longer pile. It has high lustre and is made in silk, silk blends or with manufactured fibres.
|
| Panné Satin S |
Silk or synthetic satin with an unusually high lustre because of a special finish. |
| Panné Velvet |
Silk or synthetic velvet with a short pile on the right side that is pressed flat and laid in one direction during manufacture. This gives the effect of a shiny, shimmering velvet. The fabric is soft and floppy, comfortable to wear. It is the easiest of all velvets to sew. Drapes well. Used for eveningwear, robes, leisure clothes, tops and trousers. Has a longer or higher pile than velvet, but shorter than plush. It is pressed flat and has a high lustre made possible by a tremendous roller-press treatment given the material in finishing. Now often made as knit fabric. |
| Pannier |
An overskirt draped at the sides of a skirt for an effect of fullness |
| Panoply |
A full suit of armour; ceremonial attire |
| Pant |
An outer garment covering each leg separately and usually extending from the waist to the ankle (typically used in plural). /td>
|
| Pant Dress |
A dress having a divided skirt |
| Pantalets |
Long loose drawers frilled at the ankle and showing beneath the skirt worn by mid-19th century women. |
| Pantaloons |
Wide breeches worn especially in England during the reign of Charles II; close-fitting trousers usually having straps passing under the instep and worn especially in the 19th century; loose-fitting usually shorter than ankle-length trousers. |
| Pantie |
A woman's or child's undergarment covering the lower trunk with a closed crotch (usually used in plural). |
| Pantie Girdle |
A woman's girdle having a sewed-in or detachable crotch and made with or without garters and bones |
| PantoflesR |
Female heelless slippers or mules worn during the 17th century, but getting even more fashionable toward the end of the period. They were made from brocade and embroidered leather. |
| Pantograph |
A device used to copy a printing design in a scale other than the original. |
| Pantsuit |
A woman's ensemble consisting usually of a long jacket and tailored pants of the same material. |
| Panty Waist |
Originally a child's two-piece undergarment that buttoned together at the waist. |
| Pantyhose |
Panty hose pantyhose (pántee hoz or pant•y hose or panti hose plural noun). Clothing for covering the legs: A one-piece undergarment consisting of hosiery combined with panties. Called ‘trunk hose’ in medieval times. |
| Paper Fibre |
Fibres unsuitable for textile operations, but which find use in papermaking. These include flax, cotton, rayon, linen, silk, nylon, vinyl fibres, jute and other bast fibres. These are used in conjunction with other normal paper raw materials, such as wood pulp. |
| Paper Muslin |
A lightweight cotton muslin, which has been sized and glazed, mainly used for lining. |
| Paper Taffeta |
Plain weave, very light in weight and treated to give a crisp, paper-like finish. |
| Paper Yarn |
A yarn consisting of one or more continuous lengths of paper strip, or a yam incorporating one or more continuous lengths of paper strip as a major component.
1. paper in normal widths is wound into rolls of substantial length, and cut or 'slit' into strips ranging from 0.5 mm wide upwards. By appropriate treatment (which may include 'turning-over' the edges or the application of adhesives or water or both), strips are twisted sufficiently to make a round-section, tubular form of yam. Coloured paper mat be used.
2. Single paper yarns may be doubled, and one or more twisted with textile yarn(s) around a core yarn.
|
| Papering |
The insertion of cold or heated board elements (papers) into folds of fabric prior to pressing in a hydraulic press. |
| Paper-like |
Refers to fabric with a crisp, noisy hand that suggests paper.
|
| Papermaker’s Felts |
Textile based felts used to extract water during the process of making of paper. |
| Paper Taffeta |
A fine-weave, lightweight taffeta fabric, which has been treated to make it crisper than usual. The crispness is usually a permanent finish. It produces a paper-like crackle. |
| Papery Finish |
A hyper-smooth finish on fabric produced by sizing and calendering. Often quite and crisp in hand. |
| Papier Maché S |
A paper-based mixture that can be shaped or moulded into strong, lightweight articles such as dress forms. |
| Papyrus Fibre H |
Fibres from a rush-like aquatic plant, formerly common in Egypt. Used for writing paper. The stem fibres have been used since ancient times for cloth, sails, mats, cords, etc. |
| Parachute Cloth |
Lightweight, strong, compact fabric used for outerwear, luggage and parachutes; originally of silk but now of nylon yarn. |
| Paraffin Duck |
A stiff, heavy, waterproofed duck treated with a preparation of paraffin. Used for coats and trousers for rough outdoor wear. |
| Paraffin Wax |
A natural wax used as a resist in batik that produces lots of crack designs. |
| Paraguay Lace |
Single threads are used to produce spider’s web effects, which are then woven together. |
| Parallel to Sidewalk Windows |
Store front windows that literally run parallel to the sidewalk. These windows are generally back closed to separate it from the rest of the store. Preferred by most visual merchandisers. |
| Parallel Line Gratings |
Transparent plates containing uniformly spaced parallel lines in the cross-wise direction. It is possible to determine the number of threads per unit length (cm or inch) in a fabric by selecting an appropriate grating and placing it parallel to a set of threads. The number of lines appearing on the grating indicates the difference between the total number of lines on the grating and the total number of threads in the area covered by the grating. By placing a grating at a small angle to a set of threads, irregularities in their spacing can be detected. |
| Parallel Wound Package |
A package on which the yarn coils are wound side-by-side roughly perpendicular to the package axis. |
| Paralleling |
The laying of strands of fibres straight and even by machine operations, such as combing or drawing. |
| Paramatta |
A fine quality 1/2 twill fabric with worsted weft, used particularly in the making of double-texture rubber-proofed garments. The term was originally applied to a dress fabric with silk (later cotton) warp, woven in Paramatta, New South Wales. |
| Parchmentizing |
A finishing treatment, comprising a short contact with, e.g., sulphuric acid of high concentration, whose aim is to produce a variety of effects, depending on the type of fabric and the conditions used ranging from a linen-like handle to a transparent organdie effect. The treatment is applied mainly to cotton. Reagents other than sulphuric acid will also produce the effect. |
| Pareu |
A wraparound skirt usually made from a rectangular piece of printed cloth and worn by men and women throughout Polynesia; the Tahitian equivalent of the Samoan lavalava. |
| Parfleche |
A case or robe made of parfleche, namely rawhide with hair removed by soaking in water and lye. |
| Paris Binding |
A binding, with firm handle, of twill or herringbone twill weave (usually 3/1) originally made with silk warp and polished cotton weft, but usually made with mercerised cotton or
continuous filament warp and weft. Often used to reinforce clothing subject to high abrasion.
|
| Paris Green |
A brilliant yellowish green. |
| ParkaS |
A hooded fur pullover garment for arctic wear; a usually lined fabric outerwear pullover or jacket. |
| Part Wool Felt |
A textile composed of wool fibres in combination with any one or any combination of natural or man-made fibres. |
| Partially Acetylated Cotton |
Cotton fibres or yarns that have been subjected to partial acetylation, which have good resistance to deterioration from mildew, rot and heat, but are inferior to fully acetylated cotton in abrasion resistance and in tensile strength. |
| Partially Oriented Yarn |
A continuous-filament yam made by extruding a synthetic polymer so that a substantial degree of molecular orientation is present in the resulting filaments, but further molecular orientation is possible.
1: The resulting yarn will usually require a positive draw-ratio in subsequent processing in order to orient fully the molecular structure and optimise tensile properties.
2: Yarns of this type made by high-speed spinning are commonly used as a feedstock for producing draw-textured yarns.
|
| Particle Matter |
Matter other than water, which is suspended in air or other gases, in a finely divided form, as a liquid or solid. See air contaminant. |
| Partlet |
A 16th century chemisette with a band or collar. |
| Pascal |
The pressure produced by a force of 1 Newton applied, uniformly distributed, over an area of 1 m2. (Used in textile testing as a measure of bursting pressure.) |
| Pashmina |
An animal hair fibre, forming the downy undercoat of the Cashmere goat found in some parts of Asia. This belongs to the group of textile fibres called ‘specialty hair fibres’.It is made up of fine, soft fibres commonly called Cashmere, which ranges from 2.5 to 9 cm. long. Most of this down fibre is plucked or combed out by hand during the moulting season. Arabian Cashmere, however, is obtained by shearing. Some fibres, called ‘pulled Cashmere’, is taken from the skins of slaughtered animals. Used for the manufacture of shawls.
|
| Pashmina Tweed |
A term used to describe tweed fabric woven with hand-spun Cashmere yarn on handlooms in Kashmir. |
| Passacaille |
Fashionable dance (passacaglia), whose name was given to the cord attaching the muff to the waist during Louis XIV's reign. |
| Passement |
Originally this was the name for all kinds of lace in the 16th and 17th centuries. No matter if it was made from linen threads, silk or metal. Gradually, the name dentelle was given to lighter work made with shuttles or needle, while passement developed into passementerie, which describes all kinds of woven ornament. |
| Passementerie |
An openwork braid technique, traditionally used for furnishing braid. |
| Paste Resist |
A substance applied to fabric and then when dried it will resist dyes and paints. Examples are wax, starch pastes, and gutta resists. |
| Pastels |
Fabrics dyed in light shade colours. |
| Pasting |
The first step during the dissolving of dyestuffs. |
| Patch |
An ornamental piece of fabric generally with embroidered design, sewn on a garment. May be an insignia, badge or other decorative trim. |
| Patch Pocket |
A pocket formed by attaching a piece of material to the surface of a garment. |
| Patch Work |
1. Pieces of fabric in various colours and/or shapes sewn together to form a textile article such.
2. Various colours or designs combined together in one design. May be print or yarn dye.
|
| Patent Leather |
A varnished leather that is very expensive. Used mainly for shoes and handbags.
Patka.A girdle or cummerbund, worn usually over pyjama and often very sumptuous and decorative.
|
| Patola |
A plain weave, richly decorated, silk fabric with a tie-dyed or hand-blocked border, made in India. |
| Pattern |
1. Design of a fabric which is either woven-in or printed on the cloth.
2. A replica of garment in flat card or paper. A template used for marking out the parts of a garment on material prior to cutting.
|
| Pattern Blanket |
The product of a system for designing fabrics, especially suitings, whereby a warp consisting of a number of different block stripes is woven in a given pattern and weft in different colours or picking patterns are introduced at intervals. The resulting ‘blanket’ exhibits a number of combinations of colours in a single construction, some of which constitute a random range. Pattern blankets are used to provide samples for commercial selection. |
| Pattern Chain |
Chain used on looms to control the pattern of the fabric. |
| Pattern Cutter |
A person who determines the shapes of the components of garments, to ensure that they fit together and, when assembled, reflect the intentions of the designer and also ensure that they conform to the dimensions of intended size. |
| Pattern Defects In Garment |
1. Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker did not include the correct number of parts.
2. Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labelled, resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts.
3. Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped fabrics.
4 Not all patterns facing in same direction (either way) on a one-way fabric.
4. Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.
5. Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.
6. Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze the pattern into a smaller space for economising the fabric. Marking back from miniature markers also can cause trouble unless the miniature marker making is in the hands of experienced operators.
7. Alternatively the full size pattern may be having worn out edges.
8. Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in components being sewn together with puckering and pleating.
8. When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of the lay get cut with bits missing.
9. Not enough knife clearance freedom.
10. Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are not matching.
11. Wrong check boxing, i.e. checks are not showing a full or partial box across the seam.
12. Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.
|
| Pattern Dyeing |
A phrase used to describe the several methods by which a pattern effect is obtained on a fabric by preventing the dyestuff getting to certain parts. Batik dyed fabrics where wax is used is a good example and tie-dye where the fabric is tied into knots is another. |
| Pattern Makers |
Take an existing sketch and create a two dimensional paper pattern. This pattern is used to cut pieces from cloth that will be sewn into a garment or other products. |
| Pattern Warping |
The process of preparing warp beams over two stages; first winding the yarn in narrow tapes on a large drum or reel, and then rewinding the complete warp onto the beam. |
| Pauldron |
A piece of plate armour to protect the shoulder. |
| PBI Fibre |
A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is a long chain aromatic polymer having reoccurring imidazole groups as an integral part of the polymer chain. PBI is an abbreviation for ‘polybenzimidazole’. |
| PBO |
Polybenzoxazole, a high performance polymer developed in US Air Force research programmes |
| PBT |
Polybutylterephalate, a type of polyester used as an engineering plastic and, for specialist uses, in the form of a fibre. |
| PCB |
Polychlorinated biphenyl. PCBs are a group of toxic, chlorinated aromatic hydrocarbons used in a variety of commercial applications, including paints, inks, adhesives, electrical condensers, batteries, and lubricants. PCBs are known to cause skin diseases and are suspected of causing birth defects and cancer. |
| Pea Green |
A moderate yellow-green. |
| Pea Jacket |
A heavy woollen double-breasted jacket originally worn by sailors. Also called, pea coat. |
| Peach |
A variable colour averaging a moderate yellowish pink. |
| Peach Skin |
The term used to describe the soft surface of certain textiles which feels like, and has the appearance of, the skin of a peach. |
| Peach Skin Fabric |
Technical name to describe a very sot fabric, not its colour. Finishing process such as biopolishing can achieve a peach skin effect. A new micro fabric |
| Peached |
A soft sueded hand that suggests the downy skin of a peach. |
| Peacock Blue |
A moderate greenish blue. |
| Peanut Fibre |
A synthetic staple fibre produced from a protein base derivative from peanut meal. It has soft hand, is quite lofty, but is relatively low in dry and wet tenacity. |
| Pearl Y |
A nearly neutral slightly bluish medium grey. |
| Pearl Grey |
A yellowish to light grey; a pale blue. |
| Pearle Cotton |
A loosely twisted, mercerised cotton thread with a rope or corded appearance. It has some weaving and knitting applications but mainly used for needlework of various kinds. |
| Pearlescent |
Paints that have a pearly sheen. |
| Pearlized Buttons |
Buttons that have a pearl-coloured hue. |
| Pearlized Coating |
A fabric coating with a surface lustre suggestive of a pearl. Used as a face for outerwear fabrics. |
| Pearlized Coating |
A fabric coating with a surface lustre suggestive of a pearl . Used a as face for outerwear fabrics. |
| Pearls |
1. In lace, small loops either at the edge of a piece of narrow lace or used as decoration in brides lace.
2. Referring to fabric embellished with pearls.
|
| Peasant Top |
Romantic style often characterized with a low neckline, ruffles, or free flowing material. |
| Peau |
A French term for skin. Combined with one or more words to designate fabrics. |
| Peau de Cynge |
The name comes from a French phrase that means ‘swam skin’. Crepe yarns are woven to create a silk textile with high lustre. It has a slightly slubbed texture and a good body. |
| Peau de Peche |
The name comes from a French phrase meaning ‘skin of peach’. This textile has a soft nap that is acquired after a finishing process. |
| Peau de Soie |
Soft, satin-face, good quality cloth. It has a dull lustre. Has a grainy appearance, and is a characteristic in the cloth, which may have a single or double face construction. Fine close ribs are seen in the filling direction. With the best grades, the fabric can be used on either side. Lower qualities are finished on one side only. Name means, ‘skin of silk’. Some cloth sold as peau de soie is really a delustred satin. It doesn't have the grainy appearance. Because of crosswise rib, fabric difficult to ease. Also sold as ‘delustred satin’.. |
| Pebble |
A term often used for the characteristic appearance of a crêpe fabric. |
| Pebble Effect |
Fabric with a rough, granite-like, irregular or pebble effect on the face of the goods. Most of the cloth is some type of crepe fabric. |
| Pebble Weave |
A type of granite weave. |
| Pebbly |
Refers to a fabric surface with a grainy, crepey texture. |
| Peel Bond Strength |
Actual force required to peel or to separate two layers of bonded goods. This test is done on the fabric both on wet and dry. Result expressed in unit weight of pull per one-inch width of the bonded goods. |
| Pedal Pushers |
Women’s and girls' calf-length trousers. |
| Peeler |
A high quality extra-long staple upland cotton with a staple 1-1/8 inches in length or more. |
| Peg Top |
Peg trousers. |
| Pegging |
A finishing process that is used to produce a lustre on velveteens. The pile is rubbed with blocks of wood or soapstone. |
| Peignoir |
A woman's loose negligee or dressing gown. |
| Pekin |
Novelty weave fabric. It has a very fine quality. It is characterized by its vertical stripes of identical width that have equal widths between them. It consists of Cotton, wool, silk, or elaborate velvet stripes that are separated by satin. |
| Pelerine |
A woman's narrow cape made of fabric or fur and usually with long ends hanging down in front. |
| Pelisse |
A long cloak or coat made of fur or lined or trimmed with fur; a woman's loose lightweight cloak with wide collar and fur trimming. |
| Pellon |
Trademark name for non-woven textiles produced by the Pellon Corporation, New York City. Used for inner construction. Pellon is made from natural and or manmade fibres bonded together by chemicals and heat. |
| Pelt |
Skin of an animal, including the hair. Specifically, the skin of sheep, including the wool. |
| Penalty Fee |
A term used in the fashion business. If a client requires a model to effect a change in his/her appearance which is permanent (such as hair dyeing or cutting) the model’s agency will often negotiate a ‘penalty penalty fee’ in addition to the regular rate in order to remunerate the model for the loss of future earnings brought about by her changed look. |
| Pencil Stripe |
A dark stripe on a lighter ground (regardless of the width of stripe). |
| Pencilling |
In printing, the touching up of a printed fabric with a fine brush. |
| Penetrability of Fabric |
A fabric’s ability to permit penetration by rain. |
| Penetration of Colourant |
The extent to which a colorant penetrates into the yarn structure. |
| Penetration of Size |
The extent to which a size solution penetrates into the yarn structure. |
| Pentagraph |
The machine using the pantograph principle to transfer at one time as many print-design repeats as are required around the surface of the copper cylinder. Originally the design was always increased five times in size on to the zinc master plate before being transferred at original size on to the surface of the copper cylinder; hence this traditional corruption of the word ‘pantograph’ in textile trade. |
| Penta-lobal |
A five-sided man-made fibre as seen in cross section under the microscope. The modification of the circular shape to the penta-lobal has been done to increase the lustre of the yarn. |
| Peplos |
A garment worn like a shawl by women of ancient Greece. |
| Peplum G |
Short section attached to waistline of a blouse, jacket, or dress. |
| Pepper and Salt |
A fabric with a speckled effect, often black and white. The appearance of cloth suggests a mixture of salt and pepper. The effect is obtained by the use of two-coloured twisted yarns, ordinarily in black and white or by the intricacy of weave with two or more solid coloured yarns. Fabrics are also made in shades of grey, brown, green, and blue, etc. |
| Percale |
1. Dress percale is a medium-weight, printed cotton cloth with a firm, smooth finish. Made from plain weave the texture is around 80-square. Used for women's and children's dresses, aprons, blouses. Used interchangeably with the word, calico.
2. Sheet percale is fine, smooth, lustrous, and highly textured with a count of 90 to 100 yarns each way for a total of 180 or 200 threads in the goods; a very high grade sheeting.
3. Percaline is the name applied to a summer coat or suiting fabric made of cotton. Usually piece dyed, it is given a glazed or a moire finish. Popular, at times, for boleros.
|
| Percale Sheet |
As applied to bed sheeting, a plain weave fabric with not fewer than 180 yarns/in2. |
| Percaline |
1. A lightweight cotton print fabric similar to lawn, with a bright soft finish. Usually the yarn is mercerised. Used for lining fur garments.
2.lightweight cotton fabric, especially a glossy fabric used for book bindings.
|
| Percent Elongation |
Deprecated term. Now, the preferred term is ‘elongation’. |
| Percentage Cover |
Cover factor as a percentage of the maximum possible for a particular weave structure. |
| Percentage Maturity |
A method of expressing, numerically, the maturity of a sample of cotton fibres. It is the percentage fibres in the sample whose walls have developed to greater than specified degree. |
| Percentage Moisture Content |
The weight of moisture in a material expressed as a percentage of the total weight. |
| Percentage Point |
A difference of 1% of a base quantity. |
| Perch |
1. A machine used for inspecting fabrics for defects. The machine permits full width inspection of the cloth. It is a manually or mechanically operated contrivance consisting of a system of rollers over which fabric is drawn at open width for the purpose of inspection.
2. To inspect fabric in a vertical (hanging) position or at an angle inclined upwards away from the source of light. Note: the inclined position on a manual perch is obtained by holding the fabric forward when required. On a mechanical perch the angle is fixed by a low front roller. The purpose of perching is to inspect the product at different stages of manufacture and processing.
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| Perching |
To inspect fabric in a vertical (hanging) position or at an angle inclined upwards away from the source of light. Note: The inclined position on a manual perch is obtained by holding the fabric forward when required. On a mechanical perch the angle is fixed by a low front roller. The purpose of perching is to inspect the product at different stages of manufacture and processing. |
| Perchloroethylene |
A chlorinated hydrocarbon commonly used in dry cleaning textile fabrics. |
| Perforating |
A method by which holes or small motifs are punched out of the fabric with a metal roller forming a design or pattern. |
| Perforated Weave |
An open mesh character of mock-leno fabric created by the weave. The effect may be emphasised by leaving one or more dents empty and varying the rate of take-up. Lightweight open textures are sometimes called to as ‘imitation mock gauze’. |
| Performance Property |
In wear testing, any chemical or physical property of a fibre, yarn, or fabric that is evaluated during the wear-refurbishing cycles. |
| Periwinkle |
A light purplish blue (also called periwinkle blue). |
| Perle |
A finishing process used on woollen dress fabrics, which raises the nap in the form of dots. |
| Perlok Process |
A process whereby groups of continuous filament tow are converted through breaking or cutting into a top or sliver. |
| Perlon |
Trade name of a polyamide fibre. Has the same properties as nylon. |
| Permanence |
The level of endurance of a paint or dye colour. Also known as the wash-fast. |
| Permanent Care Label |
A care label that remains legible and attached to a textile product throughout its useful life.. |
| Permanent Finishes |
A group of finishing process applied to various fabrics which will retain their specific properties, such as glaze on chintz, crispness in organdy, smoothness on cotton table damask, crease resistance, crush resistance, and shrink resistance, during normal period of wear and laundering. Examples could include also moiré or watermarked effect on faille, taffeta and dimity, the smoothness on broadcloth, embossed fabrics, some crepe effects, glazed fabrics, etc. Actually it is a misnomer, because in most cases finishes are not completely permanent. However, the safer term to use is ‘durable finish’; very few finishes truly qualify as being permanent for the life of the fabric or garment. The words resistant or durable are more accurate.
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| Permanent Pleating |
Wide variety of permanently pleated fabric available. Is usually knife pleated-narrow pleats on fine fabric, wider ones on thicker fabrics. The fabric may be of almost any weave, including knit, and may be closely woven or have a lacy pattern. If the fibre is synthetic the pleating will be permanent and therefore probably washable, but if natural fibres included the pleating cannot be heat set and is therefore not permanent. Many fabrics are available in matching colours; one plain cloth, the other pleated, so that garments combining both can be made. The fabrics vary from chiffon and georgette, to fine knits and quite heavy skirt and dress fabrics. Some of it are sold flat with the pleats removed, and some are sold with a paper backing and measured with the pleats folded. It is all fairly expensive. |
| Permanent Press |
A deprecated alternative to ‘durable press’. Since no finishing is permanent in the literal sense, the term durable press has won acceptance in the market as more descriptive than permanent press. |
| Permanent Set |
The process of conferring stability of form upon fibres, yarns, or fabrics, usually by means of successive heating and cooling in moist or dry conditions. In this a structural change takes place that cannot be reversed. More severe setting treatments may cause further irreversible changes of structure. However, it is observed that in practice the term permanent set is used very loosely. |
| Permanent Starchless Finish |
A finishing process that impregnates a fabric and is not dissolved in laundering. The cloth returns to its original crispness when ironed.. |
| Permanent-set Wool Fabrics |
Wool fabrics that retain sharp pleats and creases during wear, laundering, and dry cleaning because they have been chemically treated.. |
| Permeability |
1. The ability of a textile to allow air or water vapour to pass through it.
2. The rate of flow of a fluid under a differential pressure through a material. Fluid under differential pressure includes: gas under differential gas pressure, vapour under differential vapour pressure and water under differential hydrostatic pressure.
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| Permitivity |
The volumetric flow rate of water per unit of cross-sectional area, per unit head, under laminar flow conditions, in the normal direction through a geotextile. |
| Peroxide |
An oxide containing a relatively high proportion of oxygen. Strictly, a higher oxide in which oxygen is joined to oxygen, as in hydrogen peroxide. Very useful as bleaching agents. |
| Perse |
A dark greyish blue resembling indigo. |
| Perspiration |
A saline fluid secreted by the sweat glands, which can cause on fabrics, odour, loss of colour and strength. There are perspiration resistant finishes, which are useful for dress fabrics and especially linings. |
| Perspiration-resistant |
A term applied to fabrics or dyes which are relatively unaffected by acid and alkaline perspiration. Said of fabrics or garments that resist acid or alkaline perspiration. Laboratory test results should be consulted prior to selling any fabric or garment as perspiration-resistant. |
| Peruke |
A wig, specifically one of a type popular from the 17th to the early 19th century |
| Peshwaz |
Long gown-like dress, consisting essentially of a choli worn rather high to which a front-opening skirt is attached. The garment was worn at an early point by men, too, but is essentially to be regarded as women's apparel. Worn with much refinement and elegance 'on occasions of household festivals'. Literally, ‘front-opening’. |
| PET |
Polyethylene terephthalate, the most common form of polyester. |
| Petasos |
A broad-brimmed low-crowned hat worn by ancient Greeks and Romans, e.g., the winged hat of Hermes |
| Peter Pan Collar |
A usually small flat close-fitting collar with rounded ends that meet in front |
| Petersham |
1. A very thick, waterproof woollen coating, usually dark blue, is used for men’s trousers or heavy coats.
2. A belting fabric used for the tops of skirts or for stiffening waistbands. A number are woven side by side in plain weave. The warp is finely sett and a thick weft gives a warp rib structure.
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| Petersham Ribbon |
1. Millinery. Ribbon in plain weave originally used on ladies’ hats, which usually has a continuous filament warp, typically with 10-12 picks per cm of cotton or spun viscose giving it a pronounced rib. The edge is formed by the turn of the weft.
2. Skirt. A narrow fabric having a pronounced rib, usually with 9-12 picks per cm and having lateral stiffness produced either by the high density of the weave or by a finishing process. In older times, some were woven with pockets for whale born or plastic strips to give added lateral stiffness. In the contrast to Petersham ribbon, millinery, above, it has an edge of contrasting weave.
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| Petia |
An apron-like piece of cloth attached to the lower end of a choli or kanjari and hanging down so as to partially cover the stomach. |
| Petit Point |
In the broadest sense, the term refers to any needle tapestry work, or stitch. |
| Petit Point Stitch |
A small, slanting stitch worked over the separated double threads of the canvas to form even lines of solid background. Used on cushions, chair covers and handbags. |
| Petite Oie |
Set of ribbons which, in the mid 17th century, was used to trim men's suits and which became very large when petticoat breeches were worn. |
| Petite Point |
Embroidery made with a tent stitch. A small, slanting, needlepoint stitch that form even lines of a solid background. Used for pillows, slipcovers. |
| Petroleum Wash |
A left-hand denim is enzyme-washed until it has lost most of its colour. It is then over-dyed and put through a silicone wash, which gives it an oily coating, and, in turn, a super-soft, butter-like hand. Denim finish was developed in 1992 by the U.S. brand Willi Wear. |
| Petticoat |
A underskirt worn by women, girls, or young children as an outer skirt, a fancy skirt made to show below a draped-up overskirt, or an underskirt usually a little shorter than outer clothing and often made with a ruffled, pleated, or lace edge; a garment characteristic or typical of women. |
| Petticoat Breeches |
Fashionable In mid 17th century to around 1675, either a skirt-like construction or a divided skirt with full, wide breeches and attached canons underneath. The legs were loose and flowing. |
| Pewter |
A bluish grey. Pewter is also a form of metal, but that is not important to us. That definition has nothing to do with apparel, colour or textiles. |
| Pewter Buttons |
Buttons that have a dull, metallic hue.
inventor.
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| PFD |
Acronym for Prepared For Dyeing: Clothing that is not treated with optical whiteners, so they take dye better. If unbleached, have a natural ecru or cream colour. They are sewn with cotton thread for dyeing, and cut larger to allow for shrinkage. Recommended for solid colour dyeing. |
| Pfleidering |
The process of shedding pressed alkali-cellulose in a machine named a pfleiderer, after its inventor. |
| PFP |
Prepare-for-print. |
| pH |
A measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution, with neutrality represented by a value of 7, with increasing acidity represented by increasingly smaller values, and with increasing alkalinity represented by increasingly larger values.
The negative logarithm of the concentration (mol/L) of the H3O+[H+] ion; scale is commonly used over a range 0 to 14. The amount of acidity or alkalinity of a solution. A neutral PH is 7.0. Less than that is acidic and more than that is alkaline or basic.
The negative logarithm of the effective hydrogen ion concentration or hydrogen ion activity in gram equivalents per litre used in expressing both acidity and alkalinity on a scale whose values run from 0 to 14, with 7 representing neutrality, numbers less than 7 increasing acidity, and numbers greater than 7 increasing alkalinity.
|
| pH Balance |
The level of acidity/alkalinity of a liquid. |
| pH Test Paper |
Use this to check the acidity/alkalinity of your pre-soak and wastewater. Used for septic tanks. |
| PHA |
Polyhydroxyalkanoate. |
| Phase-change Materials |
Materials, which change their state of matter, usually from solid to a liquid or vice versa. PCMs are often used in textiles, which are intended for sport and exercise to help maintain comfort and constant body temperature. |
| PHB |
Polyhydroxybutyrate. |
| Phenolphthalein |
Chemical used in testing textile fabrics. Colour of goods turn pink or purple if reaction alkaline; remains colourless if reaction is acidic. |
| Pheromone |
A chemical substance secreted externally by certain animals, which affects the behaviour or physiology of other animals of the same species. |
| Philippine Embroidery |
Hand needlework, characterised by dainty floral designs. Primarily used on less expensive lingerie |
| Phool Kary |
A striped cotton muslin embroidered with small buds, branches and other designs, from around Lashkar, India. |
| Phormium |
The fibre from wildly grown flax plant phoriun tenax in New Zealand. Fairly strong and flexible, and has good resistance to seawater. Used mainly for ropes, twines and coarse bagging materials. |
| Phosphorescent |
Specialty ink that glow in the dark. It illuminates in darkness. Generally, with a greenish glow effect. However, additional colours are available. |
| Photo Degradation |
Degradation caused by the absorption of light or other radiation and by consequent chemical reactions. Ultra-violet radiation is an especially potent cause. |
| Photo Mechanical Techniques |
In printing, photographic techniques in which a screen serves to break up the gradations of a continuous-tone subject into a series of minute dots of varying size or a series of fine lines. |
| Photo Micrograph |
A photograph of a magnified object obtained by attaching a camera to a microscope. |
| Photochromic |
Specialty ink that makes designs almost colourless when viewed indoors, but acquire a bright colour when viewed outside or under a source of intense light. |
| Photo-chromism |
In some dyeings the colour of a dyeing changes on exposure to light, but reverts to its original state after the sample is kept in the dark. A qualitative designation for a reversible change in colour of any kind (whether a change in hue or chroma), which is immediately noticeable upon termination of light exposures when the exposed area of a specimen is compared to the unexposed area. The reversion of the colour change or instability of the hue or chroma upon standing in the dark distinguishes phototropism from fading.
Photochromism is a reaction influenced by the wavelength of the light energy from the sun. These wavelengths can be long and invisible (infra red), the medium and visible and short and invisible (UV radiation).
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| Photo-degradation |
Degradation caused by the absorption of light or other radiation and by consequent chemical reactions. Ultra-violet radiation is an especially potent cause. |
| Photographic Printing |
Application of a photographic image to cloth, by transfer from photoengraved copper rolls or rollers. |
| Photogravure |
The process by which An engraving is produced in a metal plate or cylinder by means of light acting on a sensitised surface and the resultant image then being etched in acid. Conventional gravure cylinders all have cells or ‘dots’ of the same width but varying depth so that they hold either more or less ink, thus producing varying tones of one colour. One of the main methods of printing transfer paper for transfer printing. |
| Photometer |
An instrument that measures the light reflectance of surfaces. Find use in the testing of whiteness, soil removal, colour fading, etc. |
| PhulkariK |
1. Term used for a type of embroidery practiced by women in the Punjab for head-veils and other garment-pieces; literally, ‘flowered work’. The embroidery is worked in floss-silk upon coarse cotton cloth, in darning stitch over counted threads, being worked from the back of the fabric.
2. A shawl completely covered in dense silk embroidery, folk motifs in jewel-tones on an ochre background.
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| PHV |
Polyhydroxyvalerate. |
| Phylactery S |
Either of two small square leather boxes containing slips inscribed with scriptural passages and traditionally worn on the left arm and on the head by Jewish men during morning weekday prayers. |
| Physical Change |
A change in which a substance changes from one physical state to another but no substances with different composition are formed e.g. gas to liquid to solid. |
| Physical Textile Testing |
Laboratory tests made on fibres, yarns and fabrics by mechanical devices. |
| Piceous |
Of, relating to, or resembling pitch, especially glossy brownish black in colour. |
| Pick |
1. A filling thread or yarn that runs crosswise or horizontally in woven goods. The pick interlaces with the warp to form a woven cloth.
2. The process of inserting the filling yarn.
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| Pick and Pick |
A fabric with alternating weft threads, one pick of one kind or colour and one pick of another. |
| Pick at Will |
A loom on which it is possible to pick more than once from one side or single picks from different sides. |
| Pick Bar |
Fabric defect. A bar in which the pick spacing is different from that in the normal fabric. |
| Pick Count |
1. In woven fabrics, the number of weft yarns per inch of fabric.
2. In braided rope, the number of strands rotating in one direction in one cycle length divided by the cycle length.
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| Pick Counter |
See Pick Glass. |
| Pick Density |
The number of picks per unit length of fabric. The number of weft yarns (picks) per unit distance as counted while the fabric is held under zero tension, and is free of folds and wrinkles. |
| Pick Glass |
A single or double lens glass used in analysing and dissecting cloth. Comes in ¼ inch, ½ inch
and 1 and 2 inch sizes. For good results, a one-inch glass should be used. The device is hinged so that it may be readily folded up. Also known as a counting-glass, linen -tester, or pick counter.
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| Pick Spacing |
The distance between two picks in a woven fabric. |
| Pick Stitch |
A hand stitch made by passing the needle straight through the material at right angles to the surface alternately from one side to the other. |
| Pickage |
The number of picks (weft threads) per inch. |
| Picker |
The part of the picking mechanism of the loom that actually strikes the shuttle. |
| Pick-found |
Term describes a fabric that contains no missed or broken picks. |
| Picking |
1. The action of weft insertion. Passing the weft thread.
2. In a picker machine there is a continued cleansing and blending of the fibres being treated. The final result from the last picker frame in the set is in lap formation with the stock ready for carding.
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| Picklock Wool |
A term used in wool-sorting, mainly in the UK, for second-best sorts from fleeces. |
| Pick-out |
Determination of the weave in a fabric by noting how each yarn interlaces with every other yarn in one repeat of the pattern. |
| Pick-out Mark |
Fabric defect. A weftwise band or bar characterised by a chafed or fuzzy appearance due to the pulling out of the original picks. |
| Picolay |
Compact cotton fabric with a plain weave embossed with a diamond pattern to resemble diamond piqué. Used for children’s clothes, tablecloths. |
| Picot |
1. A decorative edging on a ribbon or lace made by small repetitive loops.
2. A purl on lace or a small loop woven on edge of ribbon. A hemstitching machine may also make a picot edge.
3. Loops forming run-resistance in the top of hosiery.
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| Picotage |
A speckled effect on the surface of a pile fabric owing to differential light reflection from deformed tips of tufts. |
| Picture Hat |
A woman's dressy hat with a broad brim. |
| Piece |
A customarily accepted unit length of woven or knitted fabric in the grey or finished folded or rolled on paperboard or plastic core. A frequent contract practice is for the purchaser to specify a minimum piece length below which no pieces will be accepted. Alternatively, a ‘cut-through’ allowance is specified, the seller has to make in the case of all pieces less than the specified figure. The reason for such practices is the greater liability to waste in cutting out from short-length pieces than standard-length pieces. The term ‘piece’ is applied at all stages of fabric manufacture although often qualified, e.g., grey piece, or loomstate piece, the qualification is understood in commercial practice. |
| Piece Dyeing |
The process of dyeing a portion of fabric after it has been woven. The woven fabric is dyed a solid colour by complete immersion, contrasted with yarn dyeing or raw stock dyeing. |
| Piece Goods |
Any fabric that has been made up for sale, usually used in reference to that sold by the yard or metre in retail stores. Fabric sold by or from the piece. |
| Pieced |
A look created by sewing several pieces of material together to form the garment, much like a quilt.. |
| Piece-rate |
A method of payment of employees by pricing the task that they are required to do. The more tasks they complete within a certain time, the higher the reward. |
| Pieces |
Small bunches of wool staple taken during sorting from various fleeces and sold in lots. |
| Piecing |
1. Joining the ends of a broken yarn.
2. A yarn defect; thick place in a yarn caused by poor splicing.
|
| Pierced Cocoons |
Cocoons from which the moths have been allowed to emerge so that they may reproduce. |
| Pigment |
A substance in particulate form that is substantially insoluble in a medium, but which is mechanically dispersed in this medium to modify its colour and/or light-scattering properties. |
| Pigment |
A powder-form of colour that can be combined with an acrylic base for paint or made into a "pigment dye." It isn't actually a dye; it sits on the surface of the fibres. |
| Pigment Colours |
Insoluble in water and the colour has to be fixed onto the fibber by use of resinous-binders insolubilized by a curing treatment at high temperatures. Used mostly on cotton and acetate, rayon and some other man-made fibres, these dyes, generally speaking, colour, by dyeing or printing, just about all types of fibres and blends. Light and medium shades of sail cloths and many types of dress goods use Pigment Colours. Good to excellent in light fastness but may be poor in cocking or rubbing.
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| Pigment Dyes |
A colorant in particulate form which is insoluble in a substrate but which can be dispersed in the substrate to modify its colour. In admixture with a suitable resin binder they are applied on the majority of textile fabrics.
Pigment colours are not soluble, cannot penetrate fibre surfaces, and therefore must be attached to the surface of the fabric by a binder. A polymeric resin serves as a binder. When the resin is cured or permanently fixed to the fabric, the dye is also fixed on the fabric surface. The colourfastness of pigment colours is dependent on the durability of the binder, not pigment.
These colours, unlike dyestuffs which stain the fibre of the cloth, are generally only a surface colouration, i.e. they coat the outside of each warp and weft thread with which they get in contact. Pigment dyes (+ binder) are suitable for cotton, linen, wool, silk, viscose rayon, cuprammonium rayon, cellulose acetate, cellulose triacetate, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, and fibre glass fibres and suitable for elastomeric fibres but lacks fastness
|
| Pigment Dyes |
Dyes without affinity for fibre and are therefore held to fabric with resins. They are available in almost any colour and have been used extensively in the jeans wear industry by fabric dyers who want to create fabrics that fade. |
| Pigment Dyed |
A type of dye used to create a distressed or washed look. |
| Pigment Dyed |
An insoluble colorant is applied to the fabric as a paste or emulsion, heat cured and bound to the fabric with resins or binders. The curing process can be controlled so the colour will fade after washing, giving the garments a used worn look. |
| Pigment Padding |
The application of an aqueous dispersion of a pigment to a fabric by padding. Note: It is commonly used to describe the first stage of a process for the application of vat dyes to fabrics, followed by fixation of the vat dye through its leuco form. It is also used in the application of resin-bonded pigments. |
| Pigment Printed |
An insoluble colorant is printed on the fabric as a paste or emulsion, heat cured and bound to the fabric with resins or binders. Allows for the printing of fabrics with fibre blends that would be otherwise difficult or expensive to print. |
| Pigment Printing |
Printing an insoluble colouring material on cloth. The colour, which has no affinity for the fibre, is fixed to the cloth by a binding adhesive resin that has affinity for both the pigment and the cloth. Methods include water-in-oil or oil-in-water or solvent dispersion. |
| Pigment Taffeta |
Taffeta woven with pigmented yarns, which give the fabric a dull finished surface. |
| Pigskin |
This skin is easily recognised by the little holes or pores where once the bristles of the pig grew. Very hardwearing. Used for gloves, coats, belts, and handbags |
| Pigtail |
A yarn-guide in the form of a short open-ended helix. |
| Pile |
A surface effect on a fabric formed by tufts or loops of yarn that stand up from the body of the fabric. Note: Originally nap and pile were used synonymously, but the present trend of using the two terms for different concepts is to be encouraged as providing a means of differentiating and avoidance of confusion. |
| Pile Fabric |
Any fabric of any fibre that has raised surface of individual fibres, making a furry surface. Pile may be uncut in manufacture, e.g. terry towelling, or cut, e.g. velour. The direction of the pile on the cloth may be felt or it can sometimes be observed by holding the length of cloth vertically. Where the pile is running upwards, the cloth will look a different shade from where it is running downwards. One in which certain yarns project from a foundation texture and from a pile on the surface. Pile yarns may be cut or uncut in the fabric. Corduroy and velveteen are examples of cut filling pile fabrics; velvet is an example of a cut warp pile fabric while Turkish towelling or Terry cloth is an uncut pile material.
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| Pile Floor Covering |
A pile fabric intended for use as a floor covering. The pile may be in the form of cut loops or loops or both. Both the cut loops and the loops may vary in height.
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| Pile Knit |
A special type of knit construction, which utilizes a special yarn or a sliver that is interlooped into a standard knit base. This construction is used in the formation of imitation fur fabrics, in special liners for cold weather apparel such as jackets and coats, and in some floor coverings. While any basic knit stitch may be used for the base of pile knits, the most common is the jersey stitch. |
| Pile Lay |
In floor covering, the direction in which most of the pile fibres lean in the original, uncrushed carpet.. |
| Pile Lifter |
A vacuum cleaning device with motorised rotating brushes designed to erect and agitate carpet pile to facilitate soil removal. |
| Pile Lifting |
The act of erecting the pile tufts of a carpet with a or pile rake to allow imbedded soil to be more easily removed. Also, erecting the pile after cleaning to restore a uniform overall appearance. |
| Pile Retention |
The degrees to which cut-pile yarns are held secure and intact during wear. |
| Pile Reversal |
A persistent change in the direction of pile lay in certain areas, so that a difference of shade is observed. |
| Pile Ruche |
A ruche made as a woven flat ruche, but with pile-forming elements. |
| Pile Warp |
Warp, which is looped up with wires for making the surface of plush or raised fabrics. |
| Pile Weave |
This weave requires two or more warps and one filling, or two or more fillings and one warp. The extra warp or filling is called the "pile" warp or filling and forms the loop on the face of the goods. If the loops are cut, it is done by knife blades, which are attached to the loom, except in fine velvets, in which there is a separate process. Pile fabric should not be confused with napped fabric.
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| Pile Weft |
The weft, which is woven into velveteens and similar fabrics for the purpose of being cut to form a surface pile.
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| Pile Yarn Floor Covering |
A textile product in which yarn or yarn segments are attached intermittently to a backing fabric so as to project above the backing fabric to form a pile, the yarn entering the backing fabric substantially perpendicular to the plane of the backing fabric. |
| Pile, in Carpet |
That part of a carpet consisting of textile yarns or fibres, cut or looped, projecting from the substrate and acting as use-surface.
- Carved pile: The pile of a carpet that is subjected after manufacture to a shearing operation with the object of creating different levels of pile, often on the periphery of certain elements of design formed by the pile.
- Curled pile: The pile of a carpet, in which curl has been induced by over-twist or by other means.
- Cut Pile: The pile of a carpet consisting of legs of tufts or individual fibres.
- Cut-Loop pile: The pile of a carpet, formed during manufacture by loops and tufts of different lengths or of the same length.
- Loop pile: The pile of a carpet consisting of loops. Also called Uncut Pile.
- Sculptured pile: A pile in which a pattern is created by having areas of different lengths of pile and/or by omitting pile in certain places.
- Textured pile: A pile in which the surface character is varied, e.g. by having areas of different characteristics or by combinations of different yarn or pile yarns, e.g. soft and hard twist.
- Tip-sheared pile: The pile of a carpet, originally consisting of loops of different lengths, which has been subjected after manufacture to a shearing process to cut the tips of the longer pile loops.
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| Pile-on-pile |
A pattern formed by piles of different lengths produced by weaving or shearing. In weaving, when pile warp is employed, wires which vary in thickness along their length is used; if pile filling is used, floats of different lengths are made. Evenly woven pile is sheared to produce patterns in relief. Part of the pile is pressed down, and the remaining erect pile is sheared. The crushed pile is later brushed up again. |
| Pileus |
A pointed or close-fitting cap worn by ancient Romans. |
| Pill |
Small accumulations of tangled fibres on the surface of a fabric. Pills can develop during wear, and are held to the fabric by an entanglement with the surface fibres of the material. |
| Pill Free |
A process developed by Lee to help prevent piling on fleece garments. |
| Pillar Lace |
Lace in which two or more threads from warp, beam, or spool, encircled and bound by one bobbin thread. |
| Pillar Stitch |
In warp-knitted materials, a single unconnected continuous column of knitted loops, formed by knitting consecutive loops on the same needle from the same yarn to give a continuous chain of loops entirely separate and disconnected. |
| Pillbox |
A small round hat without a brim, specifically a woman's shallow hat with a flat crown and straight sides |
| Pilling |
Tiny fuzz balls on a fabric surface caused by wear. |
| Pilling Resistance |
Resistance to the formation of pills on a textile fabric. |
| Pillor Lace |
Being worked over a pillow on which the pattern is marked. Lace made with a bobbin. |
| Pillow Case |
A removable textile covering that is produced or fabricated in a tube usually closed on one end, which is used to encase a bed pillow.
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| Pillow Linen |
Very smooth, high count, plain weave, bleached linen fabric. May be cotton finished to resemble linen. Easily laundered, sheds dirt, cool hand and durable. |
| Pillow Linen |
Very smooth, high count, plain weave, bleached linen fabric. May be cotton finished to resemble linen. Easily laundered, sheds dirt, cool hand and durable. |
| Pillow Tubing |
A cotton double cloth stitched together only at the selvedges, to form a tubular fabric. Woven double in the form of a tube, using a plain weave. Used for pillowcases.
|
| Pillowcase Linen |
Plain weave, high count, good texture, bleached. Yarn is very smooth and has high count of turns of twist per inch. Launders easily and well, sheds dirt, has cool feel and appearance, and is strong and durable. Very desirable cloth. |
| Pilot Cloth |
A coarse, heavy, stout twilled woollen fabric, generally made in navy blue and used for seamen’s coarse. It is usually 2/2 twill weave, heavily milled, with a raised brush finish.
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| Pima Cotton |
A very high quality cotton type, having extra long staple fibres; 38mm to 40mm. These cottons are developed in the wetlands of Arizona and California from Egyptian seed. In the textile market, the term Pima is often used as synonym for American-Egyptian cotton. However, now a day, pima cottons are often loosely used in the trade as a term for any long-staple cotton.
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| Pima Cloth |
High quality cotton made into a fabric well known for its fine weave. It is used for dress shirts, fine heirloom items and appliqué. |
| Pima Lisle |
Fabrics created through a special manufacturing process that twists long strands of 2-ply, 100% Pima Lisle cotton fibre together resulting in a lightweight, durable and extremely soft fabric. |
| Piña Cloth |
A lustrous transparent cloth of Philippine origin that is woven of silky pineapple fibres.
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| Pin Check |
A minute check effect caused by a combination of weave and colour on twill weave, worsted. Also made in cotton and rayon. It has the appearance of tiny white dots appearing in rows, vertically, and horizontally. Holds a sharp crease and wears exceptionally well. In time, it is inclined to shine with wear.
Uses: Men's suits, women's tailored suits and skirts. In cotton, it usually has a white dot on a blue ground and it is used for work clothes.
Also called ‘Pin head’ and ‘Pick and Pick’.
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| Pin Twisting |
The generation of false-twist by a device in which a yarn is wrapped around a small pin or peg of wear-resistant material (usually, sapphire or ceramic) mounted across a rotating tube through which the yarn passes. One rotation of the tube generates |
| Piña Cloth |
Woven with fine yarns produced from fibres of the leaves of the pineapple plant. It is very stiff, wiry and similar to a polished cotton fabric. |
| Pinafore |
A sleeveless usually low-necked garment fastened in the back and worn as an apron or dress.k |
| Pinch |
Refers to thickness of assembled prong / socket, stud / post, prong / duo stud or pearl / socket components. |
| Pincord |
Fabric with a very narrow wale or rib. Used in describing piques, corduroys or other ribbed. Used in describing piques, corduroys or other ribbed fabrics. Also called baby cord. |
| Pineapple Cone |
A bi-conical yarn package; a low angled yarn package in which the traverse length decreases as the diameter increases. It is used mainly for continuous filament yarns in order to produce a more stable package. |
| Pineapple Fibre |
A natural fibre obtained from the leaves of the plant ananas cosmosus, capable of being processed into fine fabrics. The fibres are fine, white, lustrous, and strong. Also called abacaxi fibre. |
| Pineapple Stitch t |
A knitting stitch, which produces an oval pattern. |
| Pinhole |
1. A defect or blemish in hosiery goods. Very small holes, approximately the size of the cross section of a pin, on hosiery items.
2.. A defect in wovens. Very small holes on the fabric. Considered major or minor depending on how far the pinholes extend into the body of the fabric. Pinholes along selvedge are caused usually by the pins holding the fabric while processing through stenter frame.
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| Pink |
Of a group of colours bluish red to red in hue, of medium to high lightness, and of low to moderate saturation. A fox hunter's coat of a scarlet colour distinctive of this sport and called pink |
| Pinked-seam Finish |
A finish for the raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, which produces a zigzagged, cut raw edge. A pinked seam-finish is made by trimming, with pinking shears, close to the raw seam allowance edge. |
| Pinking |
Gimping or serrating an edge in the form of V-shaped cuts by a machine or hand shears normally having a serrated blade. The operation is undertaken primarily to prevent fraying and achieves a decorative raw edge.
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| Pinkish |
Somewhat pink shade. |
| Pinner |
A woman's cap with long lappets worn in the 17th and 18 th centuries |
| Pinning |
An old style of textile printing, known in French as picotage. A series of brass pins are driven into the surface of the block, which is then used to produce a pattern, either as a background or as shadowy shapes of such things. |
| Pinny
|
Usually a child's term for a pinafore.
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| Pinpoint Oxford
|
An Oxford weave fabric using fine yarns resulting in a small oxford texture. Usually cotton. A traditional basket weave design using very fine plied yarn of combed cotton that results in a soft and lustrous fabric. Used for fine shirtings.
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| Pinsonic Quilting
|
A method of quilting fabrics without thread using ultrasonic sound. The face, batting and backing are thermally welded when they pass between a pattern roll and the ultrasonic heads. |
| Pin Stripe |
Name given to any fabric with very fine pin-width stripes. Usually associated with men’s worsted suiting. |
| Pinwale
|
A very narrow ridges or rib in a fabric (from 16 to 23 Wales to the inch). Example: pinwale
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| Pinwork
|
Fine raised stitches in needlepoint lace, which produce an effect of lightness.
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| Piping
|
1. A narrow fabric or cord used to finish raw edges on material or for decorative purposes in finishing by dressmakers.
2. A strip of material cut on the bias, applied folded, normally to the edge of a garment with or without filling.
3. Also describes a narrow fabric having a cord on one edge.
Piqué
There are three types piques:
1. Warp Knitted. A fabric, normally made with two guide bars, that shows pronounced cord effects in the warp direction. The portions between the cords are made by omitting one or more threads from the guide bar that is making the small underlap.
2. Weft Knitted. See Single piqué, Double piqué,
and Texi piqué.
3. Woven. A fabric showing rounded cords in the weft direction, with pronounced sunken lines between them that are produced by the nature of the weave. The weave on the face of the cords is plain. There are warp floats the width of the cords in the back. Wadding picks are used to accentuate the prominence of the cords. When the cords are in straight lines across the fabric, the structure is known as welt and when they create waved lines it is known also as ‘waffle piqué’ or Marcella. The term piqué is also applied to a much less expensive white fabric made in a lightweight Bedford cord.
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| Pique Knit
|
A fabric characterized by a prominent, all-over geometric texture. It is most commonly woven on a dobby loom but it is also produced as a double knit. The most common textures are cords ( either vertical or horizontal), birds eye, waffle, honeycomb and bulls eye. Produced in a variety of weights and fibres.
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| Piquette |
Weft-knitted fabric. A non-jacquard double-jersey fabric made on an interlock basis consisting of a selection of knitted and float loops.
Pirn
1.A support, slightly tapered, with or without a co ical base, on which yarn is spun or wound for use as a weft.
2. The weft package wound on the support defined in (1).
3.A relatively long but narrow package of yarn taken up on a cylindrical former during draw-twisting of continuous filament yarns.
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| Pirn Winding |
The winding of yarns on pirns or quills. |
| Pitch
|
1.n woven fabric, the distance between two yarns or other components.
2. In weaving, the up and down movement of a shuttle during transit across the loom.
3. In garment manufacturing, the balanced insertion of the sleeve into the garment controlled by balance marks in the scye line.
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| Pitch Gauge
|
In multi-purpose machines, the distance measured horizontally between spindles, drive drum centers, or adjacent yarns, on any multi-position machine |
| Pitches |
In printing, fine metal pins driven into the corners of a printing block for the purpose of establishing the correct repeat. |
| Pitchings |
In engraved roller printing, ensuring the correct repeat, by putting each roller in correct position while the machine is running slowly.
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| Pith
|
Helmet topee or a lightweight helmet-shaped hat made of pith or cork. |
| PLA |
Polylactic acid, a synthetic polymer formed from plant-based material and used as the starting material for a new range of fibres. |
| Placket |
An opening provided in a garment to facilitate removal by the wearer, or an extra piece of fabric applied to that opening for reinforcement or as a style feature. The placket may incorporate fastenings. |
| Plaid |
1. A pattern consisting of colour bars or stripes which cross each other at right angles, comparable with a Scottish tartan. Plaid infers a multi-coloured motif of rather large pattern repeat; the word check refers to similar motifs on a smaller scale and with fewer colours.
2. Rectangular piece of fabric or a garment, having a plaid or tartan design, worn by both sexes in Scotland in lieu of a cloak.
3. A woollen cloth with a tartan motif in which plaids, two of them, are woven into the goods; also called overplaid.
4. A woven or printed pattern in a tartan with some appealing cross-barred effect.
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| Plaid Back |
A light, medium or heavy material for overcoatng made on the double-cloth principle. Two systems of warp and weft, with a binder warp or weft arrangement. The underside of the cloth is a plaid; a series of cross stripes that form a dull or vivid effect. Weight, warmth, and the covering up of the interlacings are features of the material. Plaid backs take the place of linings in some cloths used for coating material. |
| Plain Back
|
A worsted double cloth made with a twill weave on the right side and a plain weave on the wrong side. The twill-face plain weave has the back structure made from single worsted yarns. |
| Plain Braid |
In rope, a braided construction in which one strand of one direction of rotation about the axis of the rope passes over one strand of the opposite direction. |
| Plain Edge |
Finished edge of a garment that shows no stitching on the surface. A blind or filling stitch is used. |
| Plain Finish |
A cotton fabric that has not been mercerised.
|
| Plain Loom |
A loom, which operates with a cam motion, rather than a dobby or Jacquard mechanism, to create the weave. It is capable of weaving a plain weave or a simple twill. |
| Plain Net |
A twist lace fabric made with equal numbers of warp and bobbin threads. The warp threads run lengthwise in the fabric. The bobbin threads twist round the warp threads and traverse diagonally in the fabric. Equal numbers of bobbin threads are always traversing in opposite directions. A fine plain net made from silk is sometimes called as ‘tulle’. |
| Plain Seam |
A seam formed by a single joining line. A plain seam joins two or more layers of fabric; multiple layers of fabric may be treated as a single layer. Raw edges of the seam allowance in a plain seam may or may not have a finish applied.
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| Plain Selvedge |
Plain selvedges are woven with extra warp ends for additional strength and in the same weave as the body of cloth. |
| Plain Stitch |
A knitting stitch which produces a series of wales or lengthwise ribs on the face of the fabric and courses, or cross-wise loops, on the back, all the loops are drawn through others to the same side of the fabric. |
| Plain Weave |
The most common of the fundamental weaves. Each filling yarn passes successively over and under each warp yarn, alternating each row. Sometimes called the one-up and one-down
weaver. Used for muslin, print cloth, taffeta, voile, sheeting, etc.
|
| Plain Weft-knitted Fabric |
The simplest construction of weft knitting in which the loops are all of one sort, open loops, and are all intermeshed in the same manner. |
| Plait |
The intertwining of strands, as cord, twine, straw and similar materials of a braid. |
| Plaited Fabric |
It is made with a single yarn interlacing freely to make lace or some porous material. More than one yarn may be run into the machine, but the action is that of a single yarn entering the braiding or lace frame. Plaited or lace fabrics can also be made on the idea of plaiting threads according to some plan or motif. Designs are often balanced geometrically, and in some instances are symmetrical. Some plaited fabrics are shoelaces, lace, curtains, gauze, doilies, bedspreads, counter panes, runners, and veiling. |
| Plaited Rope |
Rope made from eight strands arranged in four pairs in which one strand is placed adjacent to a second in each pair and in which each strand of each pair has been twisted in one direction while each strand in each alternate pair has been twisted in the opposite direction and the four pairs of strands are intertwined by maypole fashion in a manner such that each pair of strands passes over and under adjacent pair of strands. |
| Plaited Stitch |
A herringbone effect produced in needlework. |
| Plaiting |
1.also known as pleating, it is the arrangement of cloth in plaits or folds.
2. The felting of wool and fur fibres for hat bodies, by means of heat, steam, moisture, pressure and pounding. Shellac is sometimes used when stiff finishes are wanted, as in the case of derby hats.
3. The principle of knitting two different yarns in such a manner that the one yarn becomes the face of the goods and the other one the back of the material.
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| Planking |
In hat manufacture, acid milling of settled forms by the combined action of hot sulphuric acid and mechanical treatment to produce a cone-shaped felt known as a hood or body. |
| Plantain Fibres |
1. The textile fibre derived from musa sapientum.
2. A strong, bast fibre obtained from the plane tree platanus orientalis. Used for cordage and mats.
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| Planted Colours |
Spacing spools of surface yarns, in different colours, at the back of the Jacquard loom. The object is to show more colours in the design than would normally show on the carpet’s surface. |
| Planting |
A process in weaving fabrics in which the pattern is developed by extra warp threads. A large number of warp colours are introduced into the fabric by replacing one colour with another at intervals. |
| Plasma |
Ionised gas.
|
| Plastic |
Generic term for substances man-made from various chemicals. Something that can be shaped, extended or moulded. Plastics are of two types.
(a) Thermoplastics: these can be remoulded by heat after formation. The thermoplastic resins can be formed into fibres and then fabricated into textile cloths.
(b) Thermosetting: These type forms cross links in the final shape and cannot be re-melted.
|
| Plastic film. |
Flexible, drapable material in thin gauges. It may be polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene, polyvinylidene choride, polystyrene or polypropylene among others. Thicker gauges, more than 10 units, are referred to as sheeting. |
| Plasticize |
The softening of a synthetic material or polymer usually by the addition of a lubricant. |
| Plastisols |
Plastisols come in a variety of colors and styles; process colors, low-fusion, highly elastic, color concentrates, color-matching systems, puff, fluorescent, glier, metallic, high density. Plastisols print on lights and darks and every color shade in between. They are generally easy to fuse in most commercial heaters and dryers, whether convection hot air or infrared emission
is the source of heat. Plastisol is time and temperature reacting and generally has a wide window of thermal exposure latitude. Therefore, they are easy to gel under most flash units. There are two primary ingredients in a plastisol ink (resin and plasticizer). The resin is a solid particle of vinyl and the plasticizer is a syrupy liquid. When the two are mixed, the plasticizer begins to solvate the surface of the vinyl particles.
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| Plastron |
A metal breastplate formerly worn under the hauberk. |
| Plated |
1. Knit fabric which has one kind of yarn on the face while another type is found on the back of the goods.
2. A cloth made from two different-coloured yarns, in which their characteristics and qualities differ; one will show on the face while the other will appear on the back of the fabric.
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| Plated Fabric |
A fabric knitted from two yarns of different properties, both of which are used in the same loop whilst positioned one behind the other. The special feature of the fabric is that each loop exhibits the characteristics of one yarn on the face side and the characteristics of the other yarn on the reverse side. In plain weft-knitted fabrics, where the loops are all formed in the same direction, the characteristics of one yarn are visible on the surface composed of the face loops whilst the characteristics of the other are only visible on the reverse surface composed of back loops. Some types of the more popular plated fabrics are cross-plated fabric, float-plated fabric, reverse-plated fabric, sandwich-plated fabric and embroidery-plated fabric. |
| Platform |
A shoe having a platform sole, namely a usually thick layer between the inner sole and outer sole of a shoe. |
| Plating |
A process for making a knitted fabric from two yarns of different properties-one on the face of the fabric, the other on the back.
|
| Platinum |
A moderate grey shade. |
| Playsuit |
A sports and play outfit for women and children that consists usually of a blouse and shorts. |
| Playwear |
Informal clothing worn for leisure activities. Generally thought of when referring to children's clothing. The only adults that wear playwear are generally members of the Apparel Search Company. After all, we are very childish. |
| Pleat |
Three layers of fabric involving two folds or reversals of direction; the back fold may be replaced by a seam. Material folds introduced to allow for expansion or to provide style features. Pleats may be either pressed to give sharp creases or left unpressed to give soft folds.
|
| Pleated Fabrics |
Fabrics with fold created during passage through pleating machinery. |
| Pleated Fabric, Warp-knit |
A fabric produced from two or three guide bars in which the front warp is stopped while the front bar mis-laps. The fabric produced by the back bar (or back and middle bars) while the front bar mis-laps is raised out of the plane of the fabric in the form of a pleat extending across the complete width. All bars are full-set threaded. |
| Pleating
|
The process of making one or more desirable folds in a cloth by doubling the material over on itself. |
| Plied |
Refers to a yarn consisting of 2 or more single yarns twisted together. |
| Plied Yarn Duck |
A duck fabric with plied yarns in warp and weft; army, numbered, and special use ducks. |
| Plimsolls |
A lightweight canvas shoes with rubber soles; sneakers. |
| Plissé
|
A French term, meaning pleated, which is applied to fabrics with a puckered or crinkled effect. Can be made from any fine material, e.g. organdy, lawn, etc. Treated with a caustic soda solution or sodium hydroxide solution, which shrinks parts of the goods either all over or in stripes giving a blistered effect. Similar to seersucker in appearance. This crinkle may or may not be removed after washing. This depends on the quality of the fabric. It does not need to be ironed, but if a double thickness, such as a hem, needs a little, it should be done after the fabric is thoroughly dry. Often it is called wrinkle crepe and may be made with a
wax/shrink process (the waxed parts remain free of shrinkage and cause the ripples). Used for sleepwear, housecoats, dresses, blouses for women and children, curtains, bedspreads, and bassinets. Often it is called wrinkle crepe and may be made with a wax/shrink process (the waxed parts remain free of shrinkage and cause the ripples).
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| Plucked Wool |
A pulled wool obtained from a sheep carcass several days old. Applied in a broader sense to all pulled wool. |
| Plug |
Hat a man's stiff hat, as a bowler or top hat |
| Plugging |
Fastening decorative buttons by inserting a plug through the eyes of the shanks on the inside of the garment. |
| Plum |
Dark reddish purple, the colour of the plum fruit. |
| Plumage |
The outgrowth of fowl, consisting of feathers and down (waterfowl) or feathers only (non-waterfowl). |
| Plummy |
Having a plum colour. |
| Plumpers |
Small balls of wax that were placed in the cheeks by some women to give the face a fashionable rounded shape from 1660-1700. |
| Plumules |
Downy waterfowl plumage with underdeveloped soft and flaccid quill with barbs indistinguishable from those of down. |
| Plus X |
A patented process for imparting stretch to all-wool and wool-blend cloths. The process puts a permanent crimp into a fabric before it is dyed and finished.
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| Plush |
1. Woven. A pile fabric, with a longer and less dense pile than that of velvet. The yarns can be almost any, natural or synthetic. Many of the fabrics are now washable. Made in various weights for dresses, curtains, drapes and upholstery.
2. Warp-knitted. A fabric in which one series of threads form pile loops standing at approximately 90° to the fabric plane, being connected to the ground construction by knitting-in or laying-in. The pile loop may be cut or
uncut.
3. Double warp knitted. A pile fabric produced on a double needle-bar Raschel warp-knitting machine, by knitting separate ground fabrics on each needle bar and connecting them by pile threads which knit on both needle bars so that two fabrics are produced face to face. The fabrics are then separated to produce two cut pile fabrics.
4 Weft-knitted. A knitted fabric made with a looped pile showing on the reverse side of some or all stitches. The plush loops are elongated sinker loops of the yarn lying at the back of a plated fabric. It is sometimes known as knitted terry.
|
| Plush Hand |
Refers to a thick, resistant, soft luxurious hand. |
| Ply |
1. Yarn. The individual yarn in a plied yarn or in a cord. The number of plies in a plied yarn or in a cord is the number of yarns, which are twisted together to form the plied yarn or the cord.
2. Fabric. A single thickness of fabric in a lay or seam. The number of plies in an assembly is the number of fabric thickness.
|
| Ply In Tyre |
In tyre textiles, a layer of rubber-coated parallel cords. |
| Ply Weave |
Any fabric constructed with more than one set of warp and weft yarns, e.g. chinchilla and cotton harness webbing.
|
| Pocket |
1. In garment, a bag inserted into or attached to a garment, for practical or decorative use. Pockets may have flaps, jettings or welts.
2. In zippers, the cavity of an element designed to receive the head.
|
| Pocket Book |
A purse, handbag. |
| Pocket Bag |
The part of a pocket on the interior of a garment. |
| Pocket Drill |
A stout, unbleached cotton drill used for pockets. |
| Pocket Hand |
Also called a paddle hand. A hand lacking in anatomical details that resembles a shaped thumbless mitten that fits into a pocket and presents a smooth outline of a hand rather than bumps and knuckles. It is also flatter and more tapered to fit into and out of pockets.
|
| Pocket Weave |
A double-layered, Jacquard fabric designed with both warps and fillings. |
| Pocket-handkerchief |
A handkerchief carried in the pocket |
| Pockets |
Even during the 17th century were the pockets still a small independent bag attached to the gusset. It is only with the appearance of the justaucorps that pockets are to be found, usually vertical at first, then mostly horizontal (from the 1680s onwards). Women’s pockets, in the 18th century, were attached on a string and worn over the panier, to be reached by a slit on both sides of the dress. |
| Poil |
See Poile |
| Poile |
A raw silk yarn made of eight to ten singles twisted together. Usually silk of inferior quality is employed. Used as the core of tinsel yarn and some pile and flat silk fabrics. |
| Point |
1. 1/100 cent in the rise and fall of prices in buying raw cotton.
2. The fine quality of handmade lace without regard to the particular make.
3. French for the many stitches used in making real lace.
4. Formerly used in France to imply imitation stitches made to represent genuine tapestry and embroidery stitches.
5. The ornamental stitching used on the back of gloves.
|
| Point Bonding |
A method of making thermally-bonded non-woven fabric, in which heat and pressure are applied to specific areas by the use of embossed calender rollers so as to cause local bonding.
|
| Point Collar |
1. Perfect for nearly every professional dress occasions, the classic point collar's strength is its chameleon ability to flatter most wearers and suit any style. This collar style is suited for the four-in-hand knot or having it opened, about one button down.
2. A collar with ties used to attach women's sleeves to their gowns.
|
| Point D’esprit |
Usually describes net fabric that has embroidered spots or squares on the surface, but the term is often used in relation to any lightweight fabric such as voile that is decorated with satin stitched spots. Usually polyesters. Used for dresses, wedding gowns, etc. |
| Point de Neige |
Soft and fine lace with a small design (‘snow flake’), fashionable at the end of the 17th century. |
| Point de Venise |
A very expensive heavy lace from Venice, the most fashionable material for cravats among aristocrats and royalty in the 17th century. The lace was usually held together with a ribbon or cravat string, or sewn into a pre-formed bow and fall because it was too heavy to be tied accurately. |
| Point Gauge |
In linking, a term used to describe, the spacing of the points (gauge) in linking and point seaming machines and expressed as the number of elements per unit length. |
| Point Lace |
A knitted form of lace or openwork fabric made on a hand frame using loop transfer techniques. |
| Point Net |
A net ground made with the needle, i.e. needlepoint net ground. |
| Pointed Twill |
A weave in which the threads of the right-hand twill and those of the left-hand twill come to a point at the break line in the cloth where they come together. The weave gives cloth a sort of zigzag effect. Uses of fabric made this way are the same as for homespun and tweed, since the weaves are used chiefly for woollen cloths. |
| Pointelle |
A form of knit stitch resembling lace. A rib fabric utilizing transfer stitches to create selective opening in a fabric. |
| Point-paper Design |
The representation on design paper (point paper) of the order of interlacing the threads in a woven fabric. |
| Points, Demerit Points |
Visual fabric inspections require a numerical assessment to be made to areas of the fabric where there are defects. |
| Poiret Twill |
Named after Poiret, the French designer. It is a firm, twilled worsted material, but its twill is pronounced, like gabardine, and steeply angled. Is not much used now but is an excellent tailoring cloth. |
| Polar Fleece |
A fleece-back jersey fabric. |
| Polar Fleece, Weft-knitted |
A plush-plated fabric where the plush yarn is caused to sandwich plate on the surface of both the face and the reverse of the fabric. |
| Polar Solvent |
A solvent containing molecules in which there is an uneven distribution of electrons and therefore a permanent dipole moment. |
| Polished Cotton |
Plain weave cotton fabric, often inexpensive, that has been calendered to give it an attractive shine. The calendering does not survive laundering, so garments have to be starched, unless a resin permanent finish is added. Many weights of cotton may be polished and used for curtains, loose covers, dresses, etc. |
| Polished Yarn |
A cotton yarn, which has been treated with a starch, gelatine, etc., and then passed over rollers or other devices to smoothen and make glossy finishing material. Twine and sewing thread also may be polished.
|
| Polishing |
1. The treatment of tanned skins, or of fabrics, particularly pile fabrics, to increase lustre by mechanical means, without compressing the material.
2. Operations for conferring on yarns a relatively high degree of smoothness of surface. Application of a size coating to a yarn promotes smoothness of surface, and in fibrous yarns helps to lay protruding fibres in one direction.
|
| Polka Dots |
Round dots, embroidered, printed or flocked, of any size forming a surface pattern. If very large, they are called coin dots. |
| Polka Gauze |
A cotton gauze fabric ornamented by small spots introduced in swivel weaving. |
| Pollution Control |
The current emphasis on ecology and pollution control is posing many problems for industry throughout the nation. Textiles are no exception. Although everyone is in favour of better products and a cleaner world, meeting the rigid new standards will cost a lot of money. There can be little doubt that everyone will share in the cost of pollution control, which must of necessity be reflected ultimately in the price of consumer goods and services.
|
| Polo Cloth |
Name given to top quality highly napped fabric that is made into sportswear and polo caps and coats, jackets, etc., for spectators. Mainly produced in expensive-looking shades of brown. Made from wool, it may be woven or knitted in construction. |
| Polo Coat |
A tailored overcoat made especially of tan camel's hair often having stitched edges and a half-belt on the back.
|
| Polo Collar |
A variation of the round neck collar on a jumper that extends well up the neck and is turned over or doubled on the outside. |
| Polo Shirt |
A close-fitting knit shirt with short or long sleeves and turnover collar or banded neck. |
| Polonaise |
An elaborate overdress with a short-sleeved fitted waist and a draped cutaway overskirt. |
| Poly Acrylonitrile Fibre |
Fibre spun from polymers or copolymers of acrylonitrile. Depending upon the proportion of acrylonitrile in the polymer, it is subdivided into two classes, acrylic and modacrylic. |
| Poly Chromatic Printing |
A process of squirting dyes on a continuous width of cloth. The movement of various jets controls the design. |
| Poly Tetra Fluoro Ethylene |
Fibres spun from polymers of tetrafluoroethylene. |
| Poly Vinyl Alcohol |
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules of polyethenol (poly vinyl alcohol) of differing levels of acetalization. The ISO generic name is vinyl. |
| Polyacrylates |
Cross-linking agents that improve a fabric’s wrinkle recovery, abrasion resistance, tensile strength and crease retention. |
| Polyacrylonitrile Fibre |
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain at least 85% (by mass) of recurring cyanoethene (acrylonitrile) groups. |
| Polyamide |
Compounds found by polymerisation of amino acids or by condensation of diamines with dicarboxylic acids. They are the basic fibre forming substances for nylon fibre. |
| Polyamide Fibre |
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain recurring amide groups, at least 85% of which are attached to aliphatic or cyclo-aliphatic groups. , note.. This limited definition was introduced by ISO in 1977 as a consequence of the creation of a separate class for aramid fibres. |
| Polyamide Treatment |
An interfacial polymerisation of polyamide resin on the surface of wool fibres. The treatment controls shrinkage of woollens. |
| Polyamide, Natural |
Natural fibres consisting of polymers containing the repeating group -CO-NH-. Examples are silk, wool, and other animal hairs. |
| Polycarbamide Fibre |
A manufactured fibre composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain recurring aliphatic groups joined by ureylene groups, which together comprise at least 85% (by mass) of the chain. |
| Poly-cotton |
Poly-cotton fabrics are made of cotton with a certain content of polyester. The polyester fibres make the cloth strong and resistant to wear and tear and are easy to care for. Most poly-cotton fabrics truly deserve the attribute “easy-to-iron”. Modern poly-cotton cloths breathe and let you feel comfortable even in warm climates. |
| Polyester |
A manufactured fibre introduced in the early 1950s, and is second only to cotton in worldwide use. Polyester has high strength (although somewhat lower than nylon), excellent resiliency, and high abrasion resistance. Low absorbency allows the fibre to dry quickly. |
| Polyester Cotton |
The correct term should be polyester and cotton. The two fibres are mixed in varying percentages according to the weight and type of fabric produced. Polyester and cotton mixtures can be made into any weight of fabric from Voile to Gabardine, but for the purposes of identification in this section these notes refer only to the medium-weight fabric that resembles a plain weave all cotton material. The advantage over 100% cotton is that the polyester reduces creasing and provides good draping qualities. It also makes the fabric even more hardwearing. It may be plain or printed or woven in patterns. Used for blouses, shirts, nightwear, and children’s clothes. Lends itself to tucks, gathers, soft styles and plain styles. During washing dirt comes out easily. |
| Polyester Fibre |
A manufactured fibre in which the fibre forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85 % by weight of an ester of a substituted aromatic carboxylic acid, including but not restricted to substituted terephthalate units and para substituted hydroxy-benzoate units.
Polyester, the man-made fibre, has many similarities in appearance and general properties, to nylon. Polyester is strong, elastic and tough. Can be heat-set and has good chemical properties. Has excellent drip-dry properties, being even less absorbent than nylon. It melts at slightly higher temperature than nylon but its sensitivity to heat in use is similar. Used alone or blended with other fibres.
Polyester has a more pleasant handle and a rather less ‘glassy’ appearance than nylon, in an ordinary filament state. This has led to the use of polyester staple being preferred to nylon for blending with wool. Polyester gives extra strength and abrasion resistance to the fabric, in the way that nylon would.
In uses, where the extra given by a higher initial resistance to stretch is desirable, polyester would be preferred. Its high resistance to degradation by the action of daylight makes it suitable for curtain net and other materials for out of door uses.
It is not regarded as being dangerously flammable; melts when ignited and the flame tends to go out when the molten portion drops away.
|
| Polyester Crêpe |
Soft synthetic crèpe in a wide range of plain colours, which has largely replaced other types
for blouses, dresses, evening wear, lounging pyjamas, negligèes. Hardwearing, does not lose its shape and is reasonably.
|
| Polyester Jersey |
Close plain knit fabrics often printed, in various weights from very thin to fairly heavy. The lightweight fabrics drape well and are soft, slippery and shiny, although those made from spun polyester are matt. These fabrics often cause static problems, which may be lessened by using fabric softener occasionally. Used for dresses, robes, evening clothes, light suits. Fabrics do not crease. |
| Polyester Satin |
A satin fabric that creases very little, due to its fibre content, and is soft and comfortable to wear and drapes well. It is made in various weights suitable for lingerie, blouses and eveningwear. It has less lustre than satins made from shiny fibres such as silk or acetate. |
| Polyester Sheer |
Firm, vision net used for curtains. Fibres vary but polyester is mainly used because it does not lose its colour. Fibre combinations include polyester and silk, and polyester, acrylic and nylon. |
| Polyethylene |
Polyethylene, often termed in the shortened form Polythene is spun from polymers or copolymers of ethylene. Filaments are hot-melt extruded and contain colouring matter if so desired. Characterised by very good strength, high abrasion resistance and low water absorbency
It is one of the polymers used for adhesives on fusible interlinings, and because of its very good performance during washing, it is the main adhesive for shirt collars and cuffs, applied either as high density or low density, the former having the greatest resistance to dry cleaning and commercial laundering.
It has low softening point, high shrinkage, low stiffness, poor creep characteristics, and an inability to take dyes. These and other shortcomings have restricted its use to only specialised non-apparel applications.
Used in thin sheet form for transparent bags to protect garments. But it is not produced as a fibre for weaving or knitting clothing textiles, although in coarse high denier filaments it is woven into deck chair canvas and similar hardwearing fabrics. However, as non-woven fabric, made directly from the filaments by the spun-bonded system, it has become an important type of fabric for hospital and clean air clothing. It can be successfully printed in colourful patterns for promotional garments or the fibre can be coloured during extrusion.
|
| Poly-filled |
A warm polyester lining found in the body or sleeves of outerwear garments. It has more loft than a regular nylon lining. |
| Polyisoprene |
Natural rubber is an elastomer (an elastic hydrocarbon polymer) that was originally derived from a milky colloidal suspension, or latex, found in the sap of some plants. The purified form of natural rubber is the chemical polyisoprene, which can also be produced synthetically. |
| Polymer |
A macromolecular material formed by the chemical combination of monomers having either the same or different chemical composition. Resins and synthetic fibres are derived from polymers.
A long molecule made up from many smaller repeat molecules; the following polymers are the main ones used to make synthetic fibres: polyacrylic; polyamide (nylon); polyester; polypropylene; and polyurethane.
|
| Polymer Tape |
A tape of synthetic polymer in unfibrillated form that may be used in textile production in that form or converted into a fibrillated-film yarn. |
| Polymerisation |
1. The chemical union of two or more molecules of the same compound to form larger molecules of the same compound.
2. In screen-printing, the emulsion coating (with added hardener) is baked, or ‘cured’, to bring about polymerisation - after exposing and developing - as it greatly extends the life of the patterned print screen.
|
| Polymerisation, Batch |
A process for making polymer in batches. |
| Polymerisation, Continuous |
A process for making polymer in which the reactants are fed continuously to, and the product is withdrawn continuously from, a vessel or series of vessels. |
| Polymerise |
The process of linking small chemical units together to form larger molecules. |
| Polynosic Fibre |
A term used to describe regenerated cellulose fibres characterized by a high initial wet modulus of elasticity and a relatively low degree of swelling in sodium hydroxide solution. The is0 generic name is modal. |
| Polyolefin Fibre |
A term used to describe manufactured fibres in which the fibre-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of ethene (ethylene), propene (propylene), or other olefin units. The term includes the ISO generic names are polypropylene and polyethylene
. |
| Polypropylene Fibre |
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having an aliphatic saturated hydrocarbon chain in which alternate carbon atoms carry a methyl group, generally in an isotactic disposition and without further substitution. |
| Polystyrene Fibre |
An extremely fine fibre made in bats with minute air spaces between the fibres. Used for low temperature thermal insulation, soundproofing, and for buoyancy in floats, life vests, etc.
|
| Polythene e |
Polyethylene is often termed in the shortened form ‘polythene’ |
| Polyurea Fibre c |
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain recurring aliphatic groups joined by ureylene groups which together comprise at least 85% (by mass) of the chain |
| Polyurethane |
A manufactured fibre composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain recurring aliphatic groups joined via urethane groups, which together comprise at least 85% (by mass) of the chain. The segmented polyurethane fibres are all characterised by the high extension and snap-back recovery associated with rubber-like elasticity. |
| Polyvinyl Alcohol |
A term used to describe fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules of polyethenol (poly vinyl alcohol) of differing levels of acetalization. The ISO generic name is vinyl. |
| Polyvinyl Chloride |
PVC or polyvinyl chloride is a type of chemically produced thermoplastic chlorofibre, spun from polymers or copolymers of vinylidene chloride. It has many properties of synthetic fibres. It is very heat sensitive, shrinks in boiling water and softens even with a cool iron and it has no absorbency. These properties make it unsuitable for general apparel, unless it is heat-stabilised. The principal clothing use is for thermal wear, consisting of nearly every type of garment from underwear to outer coats.
The main advantage of the fibre is its tendency to generate a negative electro-static charge. PVC fibres generate negative electricity by friction with the skin, whereas most other fibres develop positive electric charges. It is believed that it creates a barrier of electro-static air, which increases and maintains body warmth and it is claimed that this negative electricity has therapeutic effects, and is of value in the treatment of rheumatism and similar complaints.
|
| Polyvoltine Silk |
Silk produced by a variety of silkworm producing several generations per year, more commonly found in the tropics.
|
| Pomander |
From the French word ‘omme’for apple, still in use in the first half of the 17th century by ladies. Small balls of perfume placed in decorated, perforated boxes and worn around the waist on chains. |
| Pompadour |
A silk term for small floral effects in a fabric. |
| Pompadour Taffeta |
Originally executed in silk. Often has large floral designs in velvet or pile on a Taffeta ground. Occasionally stripes are used instead of flowers. Today it is made with manufactured fibres. |
| Pompon |
A ball pendant made of any fibre in a chenille effect, i.e. with the threads radiating from the centre. Used for trimming curtains, hats, dresses, furniture, etc. when a series of these yarn balls hang from a braid, they are called a ball fringe.
|
| Poncho |
1. Spanish for a blanket-like cloak, with a slit in the middle for the head.
2. A blanket with a slit in the middle so that it can be slipped over the head and worn as a sleeveless garment; a waterproof garment resembling a poncho and having an integral hood
3. A cotton warp and wool filling cloth, which has been fulled considerably and given a dense napping.
4. An all-cotton garment used in cavalry units. When thus used, the article is slit in the centre so that it may be easily slipped over the head to afford protection to the wearer.
5. A blanket-like cloak with a hole in the centre for the head
|
| Pongee |
Formerly from China. Originally woven on hand looms in the home. Light or medium weight mainly in silk; mostly in tan or ecru in colour. Made in plain weave ‘in the gum’. Some are dyed in various colour, but the shades may not quite uniform; some printed too. Warp is finer and more even than filling. Nubs or irregular cross ribs produced by uneven yarns. It is woven from wild tussah silk and it is a ‘raw silk’. Now pongee is made in cotton and cellulosic fibres. Used for dresses, ensembles, blouses, summer suits, in a medium weight. It used to be a great deal for drapery linings. Pongee cotton is made of combed yarns and given a variety of finishes. |
| Pongee Imperial |
A rich, lustrous, plain weave pongee silk dress fabric. |
| Ponte |
A fabric of interlock basis, which is very firm and stable. |
| Ponte di Roma |
Weft knitted, interlock based, double jersey structure. Means ‘roman bridge’ which is suggested by the arrangement of loops . The fabric looks the same on both sides. |
| Pontiac |
A strong, knitted, waterproof, woollen fabric made in dark grey. Used for skirts and coats. |
| Pony Cloth |
A term used for cut-pile fabric made in imitation of pony skin. |
| Poodle |
A fabric with a nubby or coarsely looped surface that resembles a poodle's coat, also called poodle cloth. |
| Poodle Cloth |
A looped bouclé or knotted fancy yarn fabric brought here several years ago by lemur of Paris, France. Resembling the coat or fleece of a French poodle it was first made of wool and mohair yarn, the latter providing the effect. Now
made from other fibres, knit goods of poodle cloth are of the staple variety in the women's coating trade.
|
| Poor Boy |
An inexpensive rib knit usually in a fine to medium yarn. Describes an entire category of fabric rather than one specific cloth. The general designation for rib knit fabrics (mostly, but not exclusively 2 x 2 ribs) used in sweaters, sport pullover shirts and T-shirts. Also called poor boy rib. |
| Poor Penetration |
When heavy or densely woven fabrics, or tightly twisted yarn fabrics, are piece-dyed, there is some times a lack of penetration of the dye into the centre of the yarn material. This condition leaves the fibres in the centre of yarn or at fabric interlacing lightly coloured or undyed. Although there is no problem with such fabrics while new, but after a brief period of wear/use they will take on a faded appearance at the abrasion points. For this reason, many high quality, heavyweight and densely woven fabrics are yarn-dyed even though they are of solid shades |
| Popcorn |
A fabric utilizing yarn with thick spots suggesting popcorn. Usually a knit but may be woven. |
| Popcorn Pique |
Alternating rows of two different pique knits; one is baby pique, while the other is a larger pique that resembles small circles knit closely together. |
| Poplin |
A plain-weave cotton-type fabric with weft-ways ribs and a high warp sett. Poplin fabrics are mostly made of fine cotton yarns. The smooth surface of poplin allows a maximum of combinations. Cotton poplin is now mostly mercerised and given a moiré finish. Shirts and blouses of this material are perfectly suited to formal occasions, a smart-casual environment, or just ‘easy-going’. |
| Poplinette |
A very lightweight cotton poplin made with single yarns.
. |
| Poppy |
A strong reddish orange. |
| Porcelain Finish |
Usually a shiny, white enamel finish, which is similar to the gloss of fine china, but might also refers to other pastel lacquer finishes. |
| Porcelain Lace c |
A lace steeped in a thick solution of kaolin and fired, destroying the fibres and leaving the resultant porcelain in the lace pattern. |
| Porkpie Hat |
A hat with a low telescoped crown, flat top, and brim turned up all around or up in back and down in front |
| Porosity |
The ratio of the volume of air or void contained within the boundaries of a material to the total volume (solid matter plus air or void) expressed as a percentage. In fabrics, this refers to open spaces in the weave which permit the passage of air from without or which allow body heat to escape. Sometimes called ‘capillarity’. |
| Portfolio |
A modelling term. The collection of photographs and clippings of a model that she shows to prospective clients. It usually takes the form of a loose-leaf ring binder..
|
| Portrait Finish |
The matte, lightly stippled texture and finish of a mannequin's face and body. The skin appears more porous and thus more realistic. The flat finish adds depth to the skin colour, which varies as per the customer's specifications.
|
| Pose |
Body position of a mannequin or form. The relationship of the arms and legs to the body, the bodyline, the angle of the head to the shoulders. Movement and attitude of the body composition. |
| Positive Beat-up |
A beat-up mechanism in which the weft is moved by a positively controlled reed. |
| Positive Drive |
In yarn winding, a system in which a yarn package is driven mechanically at constant or controlled rotational velocity. The yarn speed varies with package diameter and is also dependent on angle of wind and cone taper angle if any. |
| Positive Feed |
In weft knitting, the supply of a predetermined length of yarn to a given number of needles of a weft-knitting machine.
|
| Post Bed |
In sewing machine, a bed incorporating a raised post underneath the sewing head, which enables sewing to be carried out above the level of the table on which the machine is mounted.
|
| Post Mercerising |
Crease resistant linen fabrics may be produced by treatment with urea formaldehyde resin followed by a mercerising treatment to confer durability and suppleness. |
| Post-cure |
A type of durable press finish in which the finish is applied to the fabric by the mill but the garment manufacturer completes the cure of the finish by applying heat, using an oven or press or both to the completed garment. Synonymous with deferred cure. |
| Poster Cloth |
A bleached or grey drill cloth given a smooth-faced and heavy starch back-filled finish. Sometimes impregnated with pyroxylin to make it weather- and termite-proof. Used for outdoor advertising posters and displays.
|
| Postiche |
A wig, especially toupee. |
| Pot Ash |
Also called Potassium carbonate. A replacement for dye activator or soda ash. It dissolves very easily. |
| Potassium Chromate |
It is used as a mordant in dyeing and printing. |
| Potassium Permanganate |
Crystalline salt used to strip colour from woollen and worsted cloths and for oxidation. |
| Potato Dextrin |
This paste resist produces lace like patterns and the crackle lines similar to batik, without the use of wax. Potato dextrin is not suitable for immersion dye baths; direct application techniques are recommended. |
| Potato Starch |
A resist made from potatoes used to make some surface designs.
|
| Potting |
A finishing process for woollens in which a roll of fabric is treated in boiling water for a comparatively long period. Potting is really a more severe form of decatizing, crabbing, blowing, etc. In the past it was sometimes known as roll boiling.
|
| Poult |
Plain woven ribbed fabric, similar to taffeta but usually heavier and with a more pronounced rib. The ribs are rounded, heavier than those of poplin or faille but not as heavy as grosgrain. Made from a very closely set warp of filament yarns and a thicker and much less closely spaced weft, it is a fairly stiff fabric with a scrunchy handle. It was originally a silk fabric, but is now commonly made from acetate, triacetate, polyester or mixtures or even silk. It is made mostly in plain colours. Used only for formal dresses, coats, wedding gowns, and millinery. |
| Pouncing |
In hat manufacturing, the operation of the subjecting the felt hood or body to a mechanical treatment with emery paper to produce a smooth finish.
|
| Pound Goods |
Fabric remnants usually sold by the weight, instead of by the length. |
| Pourpoint |
A padded and quilted doublet. |
| Powder Blue |
A pale blue.
|
| Powder Bonding |
A method of making thermally bonded non-woven fabric in which the fibre web or batt is bonded by activating heat-sensitive powder dispersed within it.
|
| Powdering |
A dotted pattern strewn all over the fabric.
|
| Power Net |
Thin elastic net made on bobbinette machines and used for foundation fabrics, stretching in all directions, the product is also a knitted net made on machines. When made on a leno or doup loom the fabric stretches only in one direction. |
| Power Stretch Fabrics |
Fabrics that rely more on force of recovery than on stretch for their utility. This class include most of the woven elastic fabrics containing 15% or more elastomer.
|
| Power-loom |
A loom , which is driven by a source of power such as an electric motor. This is the standard form of loom used in the commercial production of fabrics. It is the advanced modern, scientific type of handloom and has all the modern improvements for production. |
| POY |
Stands for ‘partially oriented yarn’. These are yarns that have been only partially drawn by the fibre producer and hence must be finished by a throwster before further processing such as texturing. |
| PPS |
Polyphenylene sulphide.
|
| Prayer Rug |
A small Oriental rug used by the Muslims to kneel on during prayer. These rugs have characteristic motifs on it.
|
| Pre-boarding |
The operation of boarding carried out on garments or stockings, usually before they are scoured and dyed.
|
| Precision Winding |
The winding of a yarn package in such a way that consecutive coils are closely spaced irrespective of package diameter.
. |
| Pre-conditioning |
In testing, to dry a textile material to an approximately constant mass in an atmosphere with a relative humidity between 10% and 25% and a temperature not exceeding 50°C.
|
| Pre-crêping |
The embossing of a fabric containing crêpe yarns with a design to influence the uniformity and fineness of the crêpe effect produced in subsequent treatment. This process is carried out by means of a pre-crêping calender. |
| Pre-cure |
A type of durable press finish in which the finish is applied to the fabric and set, or cured, through the use of heat by the mill prior to shipment of the fabric to be made into garments.
|
| Pre-curing |
A finishing process of garment fabrics as piece goods to give them a durable press.
|
| Pre-cursor |
Raw materials used in a controlled pyrolysis process to make carbon fibres.
|
| Pre-metallised Dyes |
Later development of mordant dyes. These are dye-metal complex dyes. By linking chromium with two molecules of dye, the 1:2 chromium complexes were formed. These are easier to apply and are widely used in dyeing, especially wool. |
| Prep |
Short for the word Preparation.
|
| Preparation |
1. In textile manufacturing, those processing operations performed on greige fabric, coloured fabric, textile yarns or fibres to ready them for dyeing, printing or finishing. For example, typical greige cotton fabric preparation includes singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching and (optionally) mercerising.
2. Short for the word ‘preparation’, which is also a slang for visual merchandisers. When you are going to make a display, all the preparatory work is called prepping (noun) and everything is prepped (verb)
|
| Prepared-for-Garment-Dyeing |
Fabric is cut into the greige state, bleached and sewn into a garment and later dyed into the desired colour. Using "prepare-for-garment-dye" allows a company to move garments to retail more quickly. As the retailer determines which colours are selling best, they can quickly get back into stock on those colours |
| Pre-pregs |
An assembly of fibres impregnated with resin that has been prepared for pre-forming into a composite shape; a subsequent curing process is used to set the resin and form the composite.
|
| Pre-sensitization |
The treatment of a fabric with a reagent that will give stabilization of shape when the fabric, especially in garment form, is subsequently pressed. The term has been used, e.g. for (a) the application of a cross-linking agent and latent catalyst to fabrics containing cellulosic fibres, so that the garments produced may be given durable shape by a heat treatment, and (b) the application of a reducing agent, e.g. 2-hydroxyethylammonium hydrogen sulphite, monoethanolamine bisulphite (MEAS), to wool fabrics and particularly garments to accelerate setting.
|
| Presentation Guidelines |
A publication generated by the store for each promotion. These publications are carefully detailed. Examples: specifies what tablecloth to use, how the merchandise will be displayed, colours and themes. |
| Pre-shrinking |
Shrinking processes applied to fabric before cutting up to hold to a specified minimum the degree of shrinkage, which will occur after the made-up articles are washed. The percentage of residual shrinkage is often indicated.
|
| Pre-shrunk |
Fabrics or garments, which have received a pre-shrinking treatment. Often done on cottons to remove the tendency for cloth to shrink before cutting the fabric for use in a garment to prevent further shrinkage. The percent of residual shrinkage must be indicated on the label of the goods or garments thus treated. |
| President Braid |
A braid similar to Russia braid but with three cores, the centre core being larger than the other two outer cores. |
| Presist |
A water-soluble resist. A non-toxic alternative to waxes and guttas. It can be painted, screened, stamped and stencilled onto fabric. |
| Pre-soak |
A preparation in which the fibres are soaked in a bath of water and chemical assistants prior to direct application. |
| Pre-spotting |
In cleaning, a pre-treatment to remove or enhance removal of soil or stains in a local area. The treatment remove or enhance removal of soil or stains in a local area on parts of garments with a solvent detergent solution before the regular dry cleaning process. |
| Press |
1. A device that subjects a fabric to heat and pressure to remove creases, folds or wrinkles.
2. A machine of which there are several types, used to press or compress raw materials.
3. To iron in the home or commercial laundry.
4. A device that squeezes liquid out of a fabric by roller pressing.
|
| Press Cloth |
Fibre cloth made of camel's hair, cotton, and wool, depending on use. Hair fibre is found in varying percentages in all press cloths. |
| Press Finish |
A finish given to fabrics or garments by pressing. |
| Press Mark |
Undesirable shinning lines on the right side of the garment due to incorrect ironing.
|
| Press Ratio |
The ratio of the weight of alkali-cellulose, after excess sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) solution has been pressed out, to the original weight of pulp. |
| Pressed-in Crease |
A sharp crease inserted intentionally in a fabric usually by application of pressure, heat, and moisture. |
| Presser Foot |
1. In a rib or plain knitting machine, the device that operates in the knitting zone for controlling loop formation and diminishes the need for take down weight on the fabric as it is formed. Plates and wires of various sorts are used for this purpose.
2. In sewing machine, a section of the pressure device on the sewing machine which ensures, in conjunction with the throat plate and feed-dog, an even flow of material and correct loop formation.
|
| Pressing |
The application of pressure, with or without steaming or heating, (a) to remove unintended creases and to impart a flat appearance to fabrics and garments, (b) to introduce desirable creases garments.
|
| Pressing and Finishing |
This term takes into account all of the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used in garment production. |
| Pressing-off |
In knitting, the act of removing knitting from the needles of a knitting machine. This may be by design at the end of or progressively during a knitting cycle, or by accident when the yarn breaks during knitting. |
| Press-off |
Fabric defect, major, in knitted fabric. A condition in which the yarn fails to knit and either the fabric falls off the needles or the design is distorted or incomplete. Sometimes because of poor maintenance of the machinery (many of the knitting needles that are broken not replaced in time), all parts of the needles on circular knitting fail to function resulting in the fabric falling off the machine or the design is disrupted or even completely destroyed. |
| Pressure Boil |
The scouring of cellulosic textiles with alkaline liquors in closed vessels under excess pressure. |
| Pressure Bowl |
In printing, the large central printing cylinder against which the engraved roller rotates and which carries the back-grey and cloth to be printed. Made resilient by lapping, it acts in effect like a print table. |
| Pressure Dyeing |
One of the popular methods of colouring textiles whereby the material and the dye liquor are held under steam pressure in a closed jig, kier, or vessel. Dyeing under super atmospheric pressure, primarily with the object of raising the temperature of the dye liquor above its normal boiling point. The plan is to provide a quicker dyeing when temperatures necessary are above the boiling point of 212°F. |
| Pressure Suit |
An inflatable suit for high-altitude or space flight to protect the body from low pressure |
| Pre-teen |
The ten-to-twelve-year-old mannequin, which is still a child-like mannequin, but has the beginnings of a more mature body. Usually proportioned to wear a girl's size 8 to 10. |
| Pre-tension |
The specified tension applied to a specimen preparatory to making a test. |
| Pre-washed Garments |
Denim garments that are softer, have reduced relaxation shrinkage, and look slightly worn because they have been laundered prior to their sale. |
| Pre-washing |
1. A finishing technique applied on fabrics to ensure a soft hand and a fashion look. Often done to denim and corduroy.
2. Action in the washing solution or period of agitation prior to regular washing. Accompanied by hand or automatic washer.
|
| Pre-wound bobbins |
Bobbins that are manufactured to specific length and size specifications that maximize the yardage on the bobbin and are ready for the operator to put in a lockstitch machine.
|
| Birefringence |
In anisotropic materials, the property, that manifests itself as the splitting of a light ray into components having different vibration directions, which are transmitted at different velocities. |
| Prick Stitch |
A hand stitch made by passing the needle straight through the material at right angles to the surface alternately from one side to the other.
|
| Primary Backing |
In tufted pile yarn floor covering, the fabric through which the pile yarn is carried by needles to form tufts; the backing fabric. |
| Primary Cellulose Acetate |
An ester formed from cellulose and ethanoic acid (acetic acid) used to make acetate fibres. Note: Purified cellulose is ethanoylated (acetylated) by ethanoic anhydride (acetic anhydride) in the presence of a catalyst (such as sulphuric acid or perchloric acid) in a solvent such as dichloromethane (methylene chloride) or ethanoic acid. The reaction proceeds until primary cellulose acetate containing 60% of combined ethanoic acid is formed. Secondary cellulose acetate is formed from the primary acetate by partial hydrolysis. It is obtained by adding water in excess of that required to react with the residual ethanoic anhydride, which thus allows the hydrolysis to take place. |
| Primary Colours |
Three fundamental colours, from which all others are theoretically derived. Most commonly they are red yellow and blue. The primary or pure colours are red, yellow and blue. When mixed together in various proportions they produce all other colours. |
| Primatized
|
Trademark for the durable press process developed by Milliken Co. |
| Primer |
The first coat of paint applied to a surface. Such paints are designed to provide adhesion to new surfaces or are formulated to meet the special requirements of the surfaces. Most textile paints won't attach to a primer. |
| Primrose Yellow |
A light to moderate greenish yellowish; a light to moderate yellow. |
| Prince Albert |
A double-breasted frock coat with the upper part fitted to the body. |
| Prince of Wales
|
A large-scale check, typified by a reversing effect ground with an over check. |
| Prince of Wales Check |
Perhaps is one of the most misused terms, the original of which was made for Edward VII when he was Prince of Wales. It is actually a very large check with a repeat of nine inches in bold red or brown on a cream ground with a grey over check. However, a misunderstanding arose when Edward, Duke of Windsor became the Prince of Wales and he favoured a black and white Glen Urquhart check and the two designs became confused in many people's minds. |
| Princess Lace |
An imitation of the luxurious Duchesse lace. |
| Princess Seams |
Seams that can be found in the front or the back of a garment that create a form-fitting shape. |
| Print |
A modeling term. The pictures that are the final result of the photographer’s efforts are called prints. In modeling, "print work" covers all bookings that involve still photography. Print work excludes all types of modeling, which are live or recorded live. |
| Print Fabric |
Textile fabrics, to which patterns are applied by dyes with stencils, rollers, wooden blocks, or screens. Cloth with a pattern or figured design applied by printing. An article of clothing of print cloth, namely a cloth with a pattern or figured design applied by printing. |
| Print Bonding |
A method of making non-woven fabrics in which there is controlled application of adhesive specific areas of the fibre web or batt by using printing techniques similar to those used colouration. |
| Print Cloth |
A medium weight cotton fabric with a plain weave from carded yarns. Widths vary widely. The fabric is similar to sheeting but with finer yarn and construction. Converted into a wide variety of differently finished fabrics and printed in many different types of patterns. |
| Print Machine Stop |
Printing defect, major. The smudging of dye along the width of the fabric, caused by a machine stop. |
| Print Out-of-Register |
Printing defect, may be major or minor. The various colours of the design are not in proper position, caused by the print rollers not being synchronised properly.
|
| Print Paste Mix |
A mixed formula in dry form containing Urea, Sodium alginate, Ludigol and Hexametaphosphate (water softener), so that when mixed with water it is ready to go. Use with Procion dyes for printing on silk, nylon, cottons and other natural fabrics, especially when fine line definition is required.
|
| Printed and Over-dyed |
Refers to fabrics which have been first printed then over dyed allowing the design to show through. |
| Printed Yarns |
Yarns on which the design is printed before weaving. Both the warp and weft yarns may be printed, or sometimes only the warp yarns are printed; the latter being known as a warp printed fabric. |
| Printing |
The production of a design or motif on a substrate by application of a colorant or other reagent, usually in a paste or ink, in a predetermined pattern. Several methods and techniques are used in printing and, some of them being:
1. Application Printing. Also called commercial printing, it is actually a direct printing method. It is the printing of white goods irrespective of the type of goods involved; popular for cotton, rayon and some silk. No discharge or resist printing procedures are involved in this method of colouring. Usually applied only to low-grade materials.
2. Block Printing. The oldest form of printing known to man. Motifs are obtained by the use of wooden, linoleum or copper blocks. This hand operation is very tedious, production is very low, pieces are rather high, and there has to be a separate block used for each colour chosen by the designer.
3. Blotch Printing: Actually a direct printing method in which the ground or base effect is coloured as well as the fancy or design area or areas. Some "blotch" coloured areas are rather large in size.
4. Burn-Out Printing. Prints that show raised motifs on a sheer ground or base. Made by printing a motif with a chemical on the cloth which has been woven of paired threads of different yarns and then actually burning-out one of the types of yarns-yarns from the area involved. For example, acetone will dissolve acetate in a rayon-acetate fabric and leave the rayon unscathed.
5. Discharge or Extract Printing. Used to obtain medium-to dark-coloured fabrics with white or coloured motifs. The cloth is first of all piece-dyed and colour is then discharged or bleached out in certain areas leaving them white. The cloth is then direct-printed and some or all of the white areas are coloured to provide the finished effect.
6. Duplex Printing. Also called register printing, it is the printing of both sides of the goods with the same or different motifs. Woven design effects are often simulated in this work. Curtains, hangings, some upholstery fabric, and some sportswear are printed by this method.
7. Heat Transfer Printing. Newest method of printing fabrics by transferring designs to fabric from special pre-printed paper. See heat transfer printing.
8. Over Printing. Colours or motifs printed over other colours already on the goods. Often done to alter shades or to tone-down certain vivid colours or effects that might be detrimental to the sale of the articles. Much used in floral, allover, and splash prints.
9.Photographic Printing. Photographic prints can be transferred to fabric by the use of photo-engraved rollers. Various ways are used to obtain the result, all adopted from printing on paper. Red, yellow, and blue, the primary colours are much used to obtain a host of printing effects. ? ? ? Print-on-Print. When the discharge or resist methods of printing are not called for, this procedure is used. Each printing used must have possible by use of the method. Used in high production, long runs of goods, and ideal with regard to price.
10. Resist Printing. Fabric is ‘dyed’ with a tannin-mordant paste and then the desired areas to be used for the motif are stripped of the covering, leaving the areas white. The fabric is then piece-dyed and some or all of the white areas are colour by this direct method of printing.
11. Mordant Printing. A process of impregnating textiles with a mordant, usually a salt or acid, to fasten the dyestuff, which is applied before or after mordanting. The mordant is sometimes also applied at the same time as the dyestuff. Mordant is a substance used in dyeing to apply or fix colouring matter to a fibre, yarn or fabric, especially a metallic compound such as an oxide, which combines with the fibre and organic dye and forms an insoluble colour compound or take in the fibre. Also known as Mordant-Acid Dyes or Chrome Dyes, they are closely related to Acid Dyes. Results are dull when compared with those from acid dyes. Exceptionally fast on wool and other animal fibres. Much used as well on carpeting, nylon, and silk.
12. Screen or Stencil Printing. Silk, nylon or polyester is used as the screen in this work; it is spread over the frame which, according to the desired design, has portions of the screen surface covered or enamelled by a coating or tish. Covered areas will not take on the dyestuff; the open areas allow the printing to pass through the screen onto the fabric upon which the screen is set. Printing is poured into the frame shell and it is applied to the fabric by means of a squeegee worked back and forth. There has to be a frame for each printing used. The method is rather expensive, yardage is limited but there is a wide variety of design in this type of work. Machine screen-printing has become very popular and is fast and accurate.
13. Shadow Printing. Chintz, cretonne, ribbon, and some silks are woven with only the warp printed so as to provide mottled effects when woven with a white or light-coloured filling. These indistinct motif fabrics are reversible.
14. Stipple Printing: Printing of small dotted effects set in among spaces or bare areas of a printed motif. Used chiefly in novelty effects.
15. Vigoureux Printing. Wool fibre dyed in the form of top and then processed in the coloured condition.
16. Warp Printing. Comparable to the principles of printing ordinary cloth except that the mechanical operation is different. Warp yarn is printed on a beam and then it is rewound onto a second beam, which is placed in the back of the loom and made ready for the weaving operation. Warp prints give a melange or mottled effect when woven with plain filling, white or in some light printing. Rather popular for coverlets, some dress goods, counterpanes, bedspreads, hangings, etc.
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| Printing Ink |
Also known as Printing Paint. A thick paint used in screen-printing, block printing, stencilling and painting. |
| Printing Topping |
Second printing of a fabric. Printing is done after the colour has been fixed and dried. Colours for topping are brilliant, heavy and dark to give tone to the lighter colours used in the first printing. |
| Print-on |
A term used to indicate that the printing method employed is not discharge printing. |
| Print-on-Print |
Application of motifs to a textile fabric by an individual printing roller for each colour. A low expense method of printing.
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| Print-paste |
The blend of colouring-matter, solvents, mordant and thickening, which are used in printing to achieve the required impression. |
| Print-work |
An embroidery which is worked with black stitches over sepia printed designs. Also called Etching embroidery. |
| Process Engraving |
The process in which copper cylinders used for printing are etched from ‘tracings’ (positives) produced entirely by photographic means. Also called photographic engraving.
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| Processed Filament Yarn |
A synthetic filament yarn that has been treated to increase its bulk. |
| Processing Organisation |
The layout of machinery, drafts, etc. used in textile manufacturing to produce a particular textile product.
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| Processing Performance |
A general term denoting the processing efficiency of a specific process or covering a group or series of processes.
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| Procion, Fibre Reactive Dyes |
These are highly reactive dyes for cotton, rayon, silk, wool, and any natural fibres. They can be used in a vat dye and to paint with and are curable at room temperature. The H dyes are less reactive and are usually set with steam. |
| Producer Twist |
The small amount of twist inserted during the production of multi-filament yarn by certain take-up systems such as pot, cap, or ring-and-traveller.
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| Producer’s Risk |
The probability of rejecting a lot when the process average is at the acceptable quality level or AQL.
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| Production Line |
In garment manufacturing, a linear arrangement of sewing machines, each dedicated to a limited task within the production of a garment. The number of machines devoted to a particular task is related to the proportion of time that the task occupies in the total time required to produce the garment. The work usually passes from one operative to another in bundles. |
| Production Lot |
That part of one manufacturer’s production made from the same nominal raw material under essentially the same conditions and designed to meet the same specifications. |
| Professional Care |
For consumer textile products, overall cleaning and maintenance procedures requiring the services of a person specially trained or skilled in their use and usually earning a livelihood by their cleaning.
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| Profile Fibres |
A term used to identify shape of the fibre-filament cross-section, i.e. bi-lobal, pentalobal, round, dog bone, x-shaped or Y-shaped. |
| Profile Stitching |
Automatic sewing following a pre-determined profile, e.g. by jig or cams. Usually applied to the automatic stitching of small parts. |
| Progressive Bundle System |
A system traditionally employed in apparel production where the task of assembling the garment is broken down into small operations, and bundles of work are progressed down the production line through each operation in sequence until the assembly process is complete. Bundles pass from one operator to the next with some work in hand at each operation. The operations are laid out in sequence with the required number of machines for approximate balance allocated to each. |
| Progressive Curing |
A sensitised fabric treated for deferred cure that cures itself spontaneously while it is in storage. Also called Spontaneous curing. |
| Progressive Line System |
A production system in which single garment or parts are assembled. During assembly the parts are passed from one operator to the next resulting in some work in hand.
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| Progressive Shrinkage |
Shrinkage that occurs on repeated washing or cleaning; shrinks more after each successive treatment. |
| Projectile |
A device used in place of a shuttle. Instead of carrying a supply of yarn on a bobbin or quill, the projectile grips single ends of weft yarn and carries them through the warp shed at the appropriate times. |
| Projectile Loom |
A loom that uses projectiles instead of shuttles. |
| Proof |
Fully resistant to a specified agency, either by reason of physical structure or inherent chemical non-reactivity, or arising from a treatment designed to impart the desired characteristics. Proofing treatments are defined by specified limits ascertained by test, and the use of the term is related to the limiting conditions. Resistant, retardant, or repellent are appropriate alternatives used when the resistance is less than full. |
| Proofed |
Descriptive of a material that has been treated to render it resistant to a specified agency. A designation of materials as ‘proofed’ should indicate that the material conforms to definite standards.
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| Props |
1. A modeling term. Short for the term ‘stage properties’. Covers the wide range of items used by a model in the course of their work other than the clothes and accessories she actually wears.
2. Anything that is not merchandise or a fixture that is used to enhance a display; e.g. painting, frame, flags, bells.
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| Protective Clothing |
Refers to garments designed to protect the wearer's body from injury by blunt impacts, electrical hazards, heat, chemicals, and infection, for job-related occupational safety and health purposes.
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| Protective Finishes |
Those finishing treatments:
1. That protect the wearer from discomfort such as air conditioning, antibacterial, anti-static.
2. That protect wearer from bodily injury such as fire retardant.
3. That protect the fabric from deterioration such as moth repellent, perspiration resistant, mildew resistant and abrasion resistant.
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| Protein Fibre |
1. A term used to describe fibres obtained from natural protein substances by chemical regeneration.
2. A natural fibre of animal origin.
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| Provençal |
Small, stylised florals typical of the Provence region in France.
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| Provence |
A typical style of printing which characterizes Provence, in France area. Usually done on plain woven cotton fabrics. |
| Prunella |
A 2/1 twill weave, fine worsted cloth, mostly made in plain colours only. Often used for children’s clothes, but also for clergymen’s wear. A heavy woollen fabric used for the upper of shoes. |
| Prussian Blue |
A greenish blue shade.
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| PU Coated |
Refers to a fabric, which has been coated with polyurethane, usually to make it waterproof but sometimes to give a firmer hand. |
| Puce |
A dark red shade. |
| Pucker |
1. To draw up into folds or wrinkles. A blister or puffed effect on the surface of the fabric. It may be the result of chemical treatment of the fabric or the result of using different types of yarns, under different tension, or yarns of different shrinkage in one fabric.
2. The uneven surface caused by differential shrinkage in the two layers of a bonded fabric during processing, dry cleaning, or washing.
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| Puckered Bodice |
Usually associated with tube tops; it provides a scrunchy look.
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| Puckered Fabric |
Fabrics that have curliness or crimpness in it, as a result of uneven contraction, caused when yarns of different sizes or varying tensions are woven together or by processing. |
| Puckered Selvedge |
A fabric defect. May be minor or major. Usually caused by selvage being stretched in finishing or uneven wetting out in the sanforization process. |
| Puckering |
1. A wavy, three-dimensional effect typified by closely spaced wrinkles, on either the face fabric or the backing fabric, or both. A rippled appearance noted in garments, especially at the seams; irksome and difficult to remove.
2. A fabric defect. The wrinkled appearance of a fabric in which non-uniform relaxation or shrinkage has occurred
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| Puff |
A small wedge of the same material sewn on to a ‘V’ cut at various positions in canvas or lining making to accommodate a prominence, such as the shoulder bones. |
| Puff Sleeve |
A full sleeve of varying lengths, created by generous gathering around the armhole.
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| Blouson |
Garment, as a dress, having a close waistband with blousing material over it.
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| Puggaree |
A light scarf wrapped around a sun helmet or used as a hatband
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| Pull |
1. In cotton length testing, a group of fibres grasped by the forceps at one time and drawn from the specimen in the combs.
2. Pull, in zippers. A part connected to a zipper slider by which the slider is operated.
3. A sample of fibres abstracted manually from a bulk lot of raw material or sliver with a view to assessing the length and/or distribution of length of fibre within the sample.
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| Pulled Wool |
Wool taken from the pelt of a slaughtered sheep and which has not been commercially scoured. It is inferior in all respects to fleece wool, which is taken from live sheep. Pulled wool is used with better grades of fleece wool to make woollen and worsteds. |
| Pulled Work |
Term used to describe a department in a cotton-spinning mill, where the preparatory processes of opening, cleaning and blending are carried out. |
| Pulled-in Filling |
SFabric defect. An extra thread dragged into the shed with the regular pick and extending only a part of the way across the cloth. |
| Puller Feed |
In sewing machine, a feed mechanism situated after the presser foot and consisting of one or more rollers, at least one of which is driven, in contact with the material, which feed or assist in feeding it. Puller feeds may be either continuous or intermittent. |
| Pull-in Machine |
A machine used to photographically reduce the width of a printing design as well as for slashing. |
| Pulling |
The removal of wool from skins. Note: Before removal, the fibres are loosened by treatment. The skins may be placed on a curved board, and, with ordinary skins, the wool is pushed or rubbed with the hands; with short-wool skins, a blunt knife, held with both hands, is used. When the puller is seated and pulls with his hands from the skin placed on his knees, the process is known as knee pulling.
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| Pulling, Rag |
The operation of reducing rags and thread waste to a fibrous state. |
| Pulling, Wool |
The removal of wool from skins. Note: before removal, the fibres are loosened by treatment. The skins may be placed on a curved board, and, with ordinary skins, the wool is pushed or rubbed with the hands; with short-wool skins, a blunt knife, held with both hands, is used. When the puller is seated and pulls with his hands from the skin placed on his knees, the process is known as knee pulling.
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| Pulling-back Place |
Fabric defect. An isolated narrow bar, running parallel with the picks of woven fabric, that starts abruptly and gradually shades away to normal fabric and is caused by ‘unweaving’. The pick-spacing within this bar may be different from that of the normal fabric or may be similar to it, but the effect will still be visible as a result of the greater degree of abrasion to which the warp has been subjected by being unwoven and woven again. |
| Pulp |
Cellulose fibres isolated from wood by chemical treatments. The preparation of wood pulp involves the boiling of wood chips with alkaline liquors or solutions of acidic or neutral salts followed by bleaching with chlorine compounds, the object of these treatments being to remove more or less completely the hemicelluloses and lignin incrustants of the wood. The purified fibres are usually pressed into standard sheets about 1 mm thick, and commercial material retains 4-12% of carbohydrates soluble in 17.5% soda at 20°C, the actual content depending on the severity of the purification treatments.
Mechanical wood pulp is obtained by wet-grinding bark-free wood in stone or other mills. The material is used largely in admixtures with bleached pulp for newsprint and is quite different from wood pulp as defined above in note.
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| Pulp, Cotton |
Purified cotton linters usually in the form of standard sheets about 1 mm thick. Note: the preparation of the linters involves one or more pressure boils with sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) followed by hypochlorite bleaching, the severity and number of the boils depending on the use to which the resultant material is to be put. The fibres are composed of glucose units to the exclusion of other sugars and only 1-2% of the cellulose is soluble in sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) of 17.5% strength at 20°c. Suitability for a specific purpose is determined by measurement of the viscosity of the product under standard conditions, and different viscosity ranges are usually specified for material to be used for man-made fibres, lacquers, etc. The material is also supplied in pressed bales. |
| Pulp, Wood |
Cellulose fibres isolated from wood by chemical treatments. Note 1: the preparation of wood pulp involves the boiling of wood chips with alkaline liquors or solutions of acidic or neutral salts followed by bleaching with chlorine compounds,
the object of these treatments being to remove more or less completely the hemicelluloses and lignin incrustants of the wood. The purified fibres are usually pressed into standard sheets about 1 mm thick, and commercial material retains 4-12% of carbohydrates soluble in 17.5% soda at 20°c, the actual content depending on the severity of the purification treatments. Note 2: mechanical wood pulp is obtained by wet-grinding bark-free wood in stone or other mills. The material is used largely in admixtures with bleached pulp for newsprint and is quite different from wood pulp as defined above.
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| Pultrusions |
Composites produced by drawing resin-coated filaments through a pressure die.
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| Pumice Stones |
A volcanic stone used for stone washing garments. Pumice is popular because of its strength and lightweight.
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| Pump |
A shoe that grips the foot chiefly at the toe and heel, especially a close-fitting woman's dress shoe with a moderate to high heel. |
| Pump Delivery |
In man-made fibre manufacturing the volume of liquid delivered by one revolution of a spinning pump. |
| Punched Card |
In weaving, a card suitably perforated in such a manner to control the patterns in the fabric and weaving operations. |
| Punched Work |
An open work type of embroidery. Certain threads of a fabric are pulled aside with a needle or stiletto and are fastened by embroidery stitches. Used mainly on household linens.
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| Punching |
1. Holes or small motifs are punched out of the fabric with a metal roller forming a design or pattern.
2. In the wool industry a winding operation that prepares four-end balls of sliver for a noble comb.
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| Puncture Resistance |
The extent to which a geo textile is able to withstand or resist the penetration of an object without perforation.
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| Punto di Roma |
A non-jacquard double jersey fabric made on an interlock basis, using a selection of loops and floats. A double-knit fabric combining the appearance of rib and jersey stitches. The alternative ‘ponte-roma’ is probably a corruption. |
| Purdah |
1. A fine, closely woven cotton or linen veil worn by Indian women.
2. A plain weave, Indian cotton fabric generally made in blue and white stripes. Used for curtains and screens.
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| Pure Finish |
A finish applied without the use of weighting, sizing, etc. Any material, which is finished without dressing, sizing, weighting, or, in the case of man-made and natural fibre blended fabrics, which contain no thermosetting resin. |
| Pure Silk |
The term refers to silk goods, degummed and dyed, together with the necessary finishing material except in weighting of 10 % is allowed for all fabrics with the exception of black when 15% is permissible.
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| Pure Starched Finish |
A crisp finish achieved with a starch mixture, to which softening compounds may be added. Used especially on cotton goods it is applied to achieve the ‘hand’, but not for weighting.
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| Purifying Finish |
Any fabric treatment, which prevents body odours by destroying odour-causing bacteria coming in contact with the fabric.
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| Purl Fabric |
Any knitted fabric with knit stitches and purl stitches on the same wale. The simplest is a 1 x 1 purl with one course of knit stitches followed by one course of purl stitches. Purl fabrics are usually thicker than jersey and tend toward greatest stretching in their length direction. Widely used in infant's wear. Also known as links-and-links fabric
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| Purl Gating |
An interlock gating, in which the opposed alignment of tricks of two needle beds lying in the same place, on a knitting machine equipped with double-headed needles. |
| Purl Stitch |
Usually a weft-knit cloth, nor classed with single and double knits which are also weft knits, but separately. Identifying features are that it looks similar to the reverse side of jersey. Used for sweaters, in stripes and patterns. Sweaters, knitted fabrics for infants and children’s wear, knitted fabrics for specialized sportswear, and bulky knit fabrics are commonly made using the purl stitch. |
| Purple |
Cloth dyed purple. Any of various colours that fall about midway between red and blue in hue. A garment of purple colour, especially a purple robe worn as an emblem of rank or authority.
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| Purpure |
The heraldic colour purple.
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| Purse Silk |
A thick, smooth, soft silk thread used for embroidery.
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| Purse Twist |
A silk yarn dyed in a brilliant colour in imitation of gold. Used as ornamental thread and for embroidery. |
| Push-pull Fabrics |
Bi-component fabrics composed of a non-absorbent hydrophobic material, usually polyester, on the inside (worn next to the skin) and an absorbent hydrophilic material, usually nylon, on the outside. |
| Push-up Jeans |
Spandex in the jeans helps to lift and shape your rear. |
| Pussy Willow |
A plain weave fabric characterised by fine horizontal lines and made from net silk yarn. The warp sett is made greater than the weft sett.
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| Puttee |
A cloth strip wrapped around the leg from ankle to knee; a usually leather laced, strapped, or catched legging.
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| Putting-in Register |
See Pitching.
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| Putting-on |
In printing, the job of transferring the design to the surface of the block or die prior to cutting or engraving.
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| Putty |
A light brownish grey to light greyish brown textile colour.
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| PVA |
Short for polyvinyl alcohol. It is used as a size.
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| PVC |
A polyurethane coating that is added to make garments water resistant.
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| PVDC |
Short for Polyvinylidene chloride fibre.
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| PVDF |
Short for Polyvinyldifluoride.
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| Pyjama |
Trouser-like garment, worn on the lower part of the body alike by men and women. literally, 'leg-clothing. The pyjama was worn in many cuts and shapes, much variation being seen in respect of girth, length, tightness, material, etc.
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| Pyjama Checks |
Fabric with two, three or more warp and weft threads weaving as one in plain and fancy basket weaves. Similar to a checked dimity. Used in union suits, shorts, hospital gowns and summer dresses.
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| Pyjama Cloth |
Woven in various qualities. The yarn used may be silk or cotton. In cotton yarns the warp is closer sett than the weft and can have broad or narrow stripes of colour. The fabric can be brushed to bring up the fibres on the surface.
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| Pyrenees |
The fabric is made in France from the wool of Pyrenees’ flocks of sheep. The Pyrenees is a mountain chain between France and Spain. The fabric is well known because it is a high quality fabric, which keeps warm. Used for men's and women's dressing gowns.
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| Pyrolysis |
A process, in which chemical compounds are decomposed at high temperatures.
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| Pyroxylin |
A cellulose product, which is used to coat cotton or rayon fabrics to make a fabric waterproof and stain-resistant.
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