| P.A. COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Partially acetylated
cotton |
Partially acetylated
cotton. This type of cotton fibres have good resistance
to deterioration from mildew, rot and heat, but they are
inferior to fully acetylated cotton in flat and flex abrasion
and in tensile strength. |
| P/C |
fabrics |
Denotes a fabric
made from a blend of polyester and cotton fibres. |
Denotes a fabric
made from a blend of polyester and cotton fibres. Also
called P-C |
| PACKAGE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A length of yarn
wound on a carrier or bobbin. |
A length of yarn
wound on a carrier or bobbin. See also Yarn package. |
| PACKAGE BUILD |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The manner in
which the yarn coils are arranged on a package. |
The manner in
which the yarn coils are arranged on a package. |
| PACKAGE DYEING |
processes, operations |
A method of dyeing
yarn. The yarn is wound uniformly on perforated cones
or cheeses. |
A method of dyeing
yarn. The yarn is wound uniformly on perforated cones
or cheeses. These packages are then placed in a special
dyeing machine in which the liquor is circulated through
the yarn alternately from the outside of the package to
the centre and then from the centre to the outside of
the package. |
| PACKING DEFECTS
IN GARMENT |
defects |
See under Garment
defects, classified. |
See under Garment
defects, classified. |
| PAD |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies, processes, operations |
Abbreviated form
for Padding |
1. A stiffing,
wadding, soft mass, cushion, etc.
2. Abbreviated form for Padding |
| PAD-DYEING |
processes, operations |
Applying a dye
liquor to textiles |
Applying a dye
liquor to textiles, either by passing the material through
a bath and then squeezing out the excess with heavy rollers
or by passing it between squeeze rollers, the bottom one
of which carries the liquor paste. |
| PAD-STEAM CONTIUOUS
DYEING |
processes, operations |
A speedy pad-dyeing
process |
A speedy pad-dyeing
process, which operates at high temperatures and is used
mainly to apply vat dyes in approximately one-tenth the
time required for batch methods like jig dyeing and pad
dyeing. |
| PADDER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A set of squeeze
rollers used to impregnate any fabric with a liquid |
A set of squeeze
rollers used to impregnate any fabric with a liquid by
continuous passage of the fabric through the liquid and
then between the rollers. |
| PADDING |
processes, operations |
Cloth impregnation
process executed through a padding mangle |
Cloth impregnation
process executed through a padding mangle |
| PADDING STITCH |
general |
A herringbone or
zigzag basting stitch |
A herringbone or
zigzag basting stitch that is helpful in the shaping of
a garment. |
| PADDING YARN |
fabrics |
See Wadding yarn |
See Wadding yarn |
| PADDLE DYEING |
processes, operations |
A method of dyeing
clothing, hosiery and other small pieces while packaged
loosely in mesh bags |
A method of dyeing
clothing, hosiery and other small pieces while packaged
loosely in mesh bags. The dyeing machine consists of an
open tank and revolving paddles which circulate the bags
in the dyeing bath |
| PADDOCK |
fabrics |
Term describes
a worsted fabric which resembles gabardine in weight and
moisture repellence. |
Term describes
a worsted fabric which resembles gabardine in weight and
moisture repellence. Commonly seen at race courses. |
| PAINTED CLOTH |
fabrics |
A canvas with various
mottoes painted in oil |
A canvas with various
mottoes painted in oil. Used for wall hangings. |
| PAINTED FABRIC |
fabrics |
Any fabric with
hand-painted designs. |
Any fabric with
hand-painted designs. |
| PAISLEY |
fabrics |
Originally only
from Scotland, 'paisley' meant a shawl made in fine soft
woollen yarn, with a woven design derived from Indian
patterns. |
Originally only
from Scotland, 'paisley' meant a shawl made in fine soft
woollen yarn, with a woven design derived from Indian
patterns. Fine fabric, always with scroll designs. The
true Paisely cloth is very expensive. Now, anything of
any fibre or mixture printed with the traditional elaborate
multicoloured scrolls is described as paisley design. |
| PAJAMA CHECKS |
fabrics |
Fabric with two,
three or more warp and weft threads weaving as one in
plain and fancy basket weaves |
Fabric with two,
three or more warp and weft threads weaving as one in
plain and fancy basket weaves. Similar to a checked dimity.
Used in union suits, shorts, hospital gowns and summer
dresses. |
| PAJAMA CLOTH |
fabrics |
A hard-wearing
cotton (once silk) fabric with a close warp and woven
in stripes of varying widths and colours. |
A hard-wearing
cotton (once silk) fabric with a close warp and woven
in stripes of varying widths and colours. The fabric is
often brushed on the right side. See Pajama |
| PAJAMAS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A two piece ensemble
consisting of a top and a bottom |
A two piece ensemble
consisting of a top and a bottom generally used for, but
not limited to, nightwear. |
| PAK-NIT |
processes, operations |
Mechanical dry
system of compressive shrinkage |
Mechanical dry
system of compressive shrinkage used to make tubular knit
goods dimensionally stable; calenders are eliminated. |
| PALAMPORES |
fabrics |
Indian hand-painted
cotton fabric with fairly large size designs |
Indian hand-painted
cotton fabric with fairly large size designs; often patterned
with 'Tree of life' motifs. Used for bedcovers, hangings
and framed |
| PALGHAT MAT |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A fine sleeping
mat made in India from the leaves of the sedge 'Cyperus
laevigatus'. |
A fine sleeping
mat made in India from the leaves of the sedge 'Cyperus
laevigatus'. |
| PALM FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A general term
sometimes applied to any fibres obtained from the plants
or trees of the palm family, e.g. 'Palma', 'Palmetto',
'Palmyra', 'Piassaca', etc |
A general term
sometimes applied to any fibres obtained from the plants
or trees of the palm family, e.g. 'Palma', 'Palmetto',
'Palmyra', 'Piassaca', etc |
| PALMERING |
processes, operations |
A finishing treatment
to give mellowness to the hand of the fabrics. |
A finishing treatment
to give mellowness to the hand of the fabrics. The equipment
consists of a large, steam-heated cylinder covered with
an endless papermaker's felt apron. The material is led
between two continuous aprons and the heat, aided by the
smoothness of the aprons, will give the fabrics a smooth,
calendered effect which is more appealing than an ordinary
calender finish. |
| PAN FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Polyacrylonitrile
fibres. |
See Polyacrylonitrile
fibres. |
| PANAMA |
fabrics |
Very lightweight
fabric used for men's summer and tropical wear and women's
dresses. |
Very lightweight
fabric used for men's summer and tropical wear and women's
dresses. The yarns used are cotton and worsted in the
traditional Panama cloth, although other fibres such as
polyester and viscose are sometimes used. The cloth has
a recognisable square-weave effect, and is usually in
plain colours. A crisp fabric. |
| PANAMA CANVAS |
fabrics |
A canvas of matt
weave that is given a beetled finish and used for embroidery
purposes. |
A canvas of matt
weave that is given a beetled finish and used for embroidery
purposes. |
| PANAMA HAT |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Men's and women's
straw hat made from fine, hand-plaited, creamy coloured
toquilla straw. |
Men's and women's
straw hat made from fine, hand-plaited, creamy coloured
toquilla straw. Panama hats are mainly made in Ecuador. |
| PANAMA WEAVE |
fabrics |
A weave which consists
of several warp and weft threads crossing each other at
once |
A weave which consists
of several warp and weft threads crossing each other at
once, producing a mat-like effect |
| PANELS |
fabrics |
Knitted hosiery
swatches or panels used for testing purposes. |
Knitted hosiery
swatches or panels used for testing purposes. |
| PANNÉ |
fabrics |
Flattened or pressed
flat as Panné velvet. |
Flattened or pressed
flat as Panné velvet. |
| PANNÉ SATIN |
fabrics |
Silk or synthetic
satin with an unusually high lustre because of a special
finish |
Silk or synthetic
satin with an unusually high lustre because of a special
finish |
| PANNÉ VELVET |
fabrics |
Silk or synthetic
velvet with a short pile on the right side that is pressed
flat and laid in one direction during manufacture. |
Silk or synthetic
velvet with a short pile on the right side that is pressed
flat and laid in one direction during manufacture. This
gives the effect of a shiny shimmery velvet. The fabric
is soft and floppy, comfortable to wear. It is the easiest
of all velvets to sew. Drapes well. Used for eveningwear,
robes, leisure clothes, tops and trousers. |
| PANTING |
fabrics |
Sometimes refers
to Trousering. |
Sometimes refers
to Trousering. |
| PANTOGRAPH |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A device used to
copy a printing design in a scale other than the original. |
A device used to
copy a printing design in a scale other than the original. |
| PAPER FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibres unsuitable
for textile operations, but which find use in paper making. |
Fibres unsuitable
for textile operations, but which find use in paper making.
These include flax, cotton, rayon, linen, silk, nylon,
vinyl fibres, jute and other bast fibres. These are used
in conjunction with other normal paper raw materials,
such as wood pulp. |
| PAPER MUSLIN |
fabrics |
A lightweight cotton
muslin which has been sized and glazed, mainly used for
lining. |
A lightweight cotton
muslin which has been sized and glazed, mainly used for
lining. |
| PAPER TAFFETA |
fabrics |
A fine-weave, lightweight
taffeta fabric which has been treated to make it crisper
than usual. |
A fine-weave, lightweight
taffeta fabric which has been treated to make it crisper
than usual. The crispness is usually a permanent finish.
It produces a paper-like crackle. See Taffeta. |
| PAPER YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Treated paper of
high strength is made into paper yarns for use alone,
to twist with other fibre yarns, or to surround the core
in a core yarn. |
Treated paper of
high strength is made into paper yarns for use alone,
to twist with other fibre yarns, or to surround the core
in a core yarn. These yarns are used for knitted and woven
garments and household articles |
| PAPERING |
processes, operations |
The insertion of
cold or heated board elements (papers) into folds of fabric
prior to pressing in a hydraulic press. |
The insertion of
cold or heated board elements (papers) into folds of fabric
prior to pressing in a hydraulic press. |
| PAPERY FINISH |
processes, operations |
A hyper-smooth
finish on fabric produced by sizing and calendering. |
A hyper-smooth
finish on fabric produced by sizing and calendering. Often
quite and crisp in hand. |
| PAPIER MACHÉ |
general |
A paper-based mixture
that can be shaped or moulded into strong, lightweight
articles such as dress forms. |
A paper-based mixture
that can be shaped or moulded into strong, lightweight
articles such as dress forms. |
| PAPYRUS FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibres from a rush-like
aquatic plant, formerly common in Egypt. Used for writing
paper. |
Fibres from a rush-like
aquatic plant, formerly common in Egypt. Used for writing
paper. The stem fibres have been used since ancient times
for cloth, sails, mats, cords, etc. |
| PARACHUTE FABRIC |
fabrics |
A lightweight but
strong fabric used for parachutes |
A lightweight but
strong fabric used for parachutes; originally of silk
but now of nylon yarn. |
| PARAFFIN DUCK |
fabrics |
A stiff, heavy,
water-proofed duck treated with a preparation of paraffin. |
A stiff, heavy,
water-proofed duck treated with a preparation of paraffin.
Used for coats and trousers for rough outdoor wear. |
| PARAGUAY LACE |
fabrics |
Single threads
are used to produce spider's web effects, which are then
woven together. |
Single threads
are used to produce spider's web effects, which are then
woven together. |
| PARALLEL LINE GRATINGS |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Transparent plates
containing uniformly spaced parallel lines in the cross-wise
direction. |
Transparent plates
containing uniformly spaced parallel lines in the cross-wise
direction. It is possible to determine the number of threads
per unit length (cm or inch) in a fabric by selecting
an appropriate grating and placing it parallel to a set
of threads. The number of lines appearing on the grating
indicates the difference between the total number of lines
on the grating and the total number of threads in the
area covered by the grating. By placing a grating at a
small angle to a set of threads, irregularities in their
spacing can be detected |
| PARALLEL WORSTED
SYSTEM |
processes, operations |
See Modified worsted
system. |
See Modified worsted
system. |
| PARALLEL WOUND
PACKAGE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A package on which
the yarn coils are wound side-by-side roughly perpendicular
to the package axis. |
A package on which
the yarn coils are wound side-by-side roughly perpendicular
to the package axis. |
| PARALLELING |
processes, operations |
Laying strands
of fibres straight and even by machine operations, such
as combing or drawing. |
Laying strands
of fibres straight and even by machine operations, such
as combing or drawing. |
| PARAMATTA |
fabrics |
A fine quality
1/2 twill fabric with worsted weft, used particularly
in the making of double-texture rubber-proofed garments. |
A fine quality
1/2 twill fabric with worsted weft, used particularly
in the making of double-texture rubber-proofed garments.
The term was originally applied to a dress fabric with
silk (later cotton) warp, woven in Paramatta, New South
Wales. |
| PARCHMENTIZING |
processes, operations |
A finishing treatment,
comprising a short contact with, e.g. sulphuric acid of
high concentration |
A finishing treatment,
comprising a short contact with, e.g. sulphuric acid of
high concentration, the aim of which is to produce a variety
of effects, depending on the type of fabric and the conditions
used, ranging from a linen-like handle to a transparent
organdie effect. The treatment is applied mainly to cotton.
Apart from sulphuric acid some other reagents also produce
these effects. |
| PARIS BINDING |
accessories |
A binding, with
firm handle, of twill or herringbone twill weave (usually
3/1) |
A binding, with
firm handle, of twill or herringbone twill weave (usually
3/1) originally made with silk warp and polished cotton
weft, but usually made with mercerised cotton or continuous
filament warp and weft. Often used to reinforce clothing
subject to high abrasion. See Kick tape. |
| PART WOOL FELT |
fabrics |
A textile composed
of wool fibres |
A textile composed
of wool fibres in combination with any one or any combination
of natural or man-made fibres. |
| PARTIAL ACETYLATION |
processes, operations |
A process, in which
cotton in the form of fibre or yarn is subjected to partial
acetylation |
A process, in which
cotton in the form of fibre or yarn is subjected to partial
acetylation to impart it, special properties. See also
Acetylation. |
| PARTIAL RACKING |
processes, operations |
See under Racking |
See under Racking |
| PARTIALLY ORIENTED
YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A continuous filament
yarn made by extruding a synthetic polymer |
A continuous filament
yarn made by extruding a synthetic polymer so that a substantial
degree of molecular orientation is present in the resulting
filaments, but further molecular orientation is possible,
i.e. filament yarn which is incompletely drawn. |
| PASHMINA TWEED |
fabrics |
A term used to
describe tweed fabric woven with hand-spun cashmere yarn
on hand-looms in Kashmir |
A term used to
describe tweed fabric woven with hand-spun cashmere yarn
on hand-looms in Kashmir |
| PASSEMENTERIE |
accessories |
Trimmings, especially
braids, beads, cord, gimp, etc |
Trimmings, especially
braids, beads, cord, gimp, etc |
| PASTELS |
fabrics |
Fabrics dyed in
light shade colours. |
Fabrics dyed in
light shade colours. |
| PATCH |
fabrics |
An ornamental piece
of fabric generally with embroidered design, sewn on a
garment. |
An ornamental piece
of fabric generally with embroidered design, sewn on a
garment. May be an insignia, badge or other decorative
trim. |
| PATCH POCKET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A pocket formed
by attaching a piece of material to the surface of a garment. |
A pocket formed
by attaching a piece of material to the surface of a garment. |
| PATCH WORK |
processes, operations |
Pieces of fabric
in various colours and/or shapes sewn together |
Pieces of fabric
in various colours and/or shapes sewn together to form
a textile article such as a quilt or pillow cover. |
| PATENT LEATHER |
fabrics |
A varnished leather
that is very expensive. |
A varnished leather
that is very expensive. Used mainly for shoes and handbags. |
| PATOLA |
fabrics |
A plain weave,
richly decorated, silk fabric with a tie-dyed or hand-blocked
border, made in India. |
A plain weave,
richly decorated, silk fabric with a tie-dyed or hand-blocked
border, made in India. |
| PATTERN |
fabrics, garments,
made-ups, assemblies |
Design of a fabric
which is either woven-in or printed on the cloth. |
1. Design of a
fabric which is either woven-in or printed on the cloth.
2. A replica of garment in flat card or paper. A template
used for marking out the parts of a garment on material
prior to cutting. See also Block pattern. |
| PATTERN BLANKET |
fabrics |
Also called Designer's
blanket |
Also called Designer's
blanket. The product of a system for designing fabrics,
especially suitings, whereby a warp consisting of a number
of different block stripes is woven in a given pattern
and weft in different colours or picking patterns are
introduced at intervals. The resulting 'blanket' exhibits
a number of combinations of colours in a single construction,
some of which constitute a random range. Pattern blankets
are used to provide samples for commercial selection. |
| PATTERN CHAIN |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Chain used on looms
to control the pattern of the fabric. |
Chain used on looms
to control the pattern of the fabric. |
| PATTERN CUTTER |
general |
A person who determines
the shapes of the components of garments, to ensure that
they fit together |
A person who determines
the shapes of the components of garments, to ensure that
they fit together and, when assembled, reflect the intentions
of the designer and also ensure that they conform to the
dimensions of intended size. |
| PATTERN DEFECTS
IN GARMENT |
defects |
See under Garment
defects, classified. |
See under Garment
defects, classified. |
| PATTERN WARPING |
processes, operations |
Also called Band
warping. |
Also called Band
warping. The process of preparing warp beams over two
stages; first winding the yarn in narrow tapes on a large
drum or reel, and then rewinding the complete warp onto
the beam. |
| PBI FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
P.B.I. is an abbreviation
for 'polybenzimidazole'. |
A manufactured
fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is a long chain
aromatic polymer having reoccurring imidazole groups as
an integral part of the polymer chain. P.B.I. is an abbreviation
for 'polybenzimidazole'. |
| PEANUT FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A synthetic staple
fibre produced from a protein base derivative from peanut
meal. |
A synthetic staple
fibre produced from a protein base derivative from peanut
meal. It has soft hand, is quite lofty, but is relatively
low in dry and wet tenacity. |
| PEARLE COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A loosely twisted,
mercerised cotton thread with a rope or corded appearance. |
A loosely twisted,
mercerised cotton thread with a rope or corded appearance.
It has some weaving and knitting applications but mainly
used for needlework of various kinds. |
| PEARLS |
fabrics |
Also called Purls |
Also called Purls.In
lace, small loops either at the edge of a piece of narrow
lace or used as decoration in Brides. |
| PEAU |
fabrics |
A French term
for skin. |
A French term
for skin. Combined with one or more words to designate
fabrics. |
| PEAU DE CYGNE |
fabrics |
A very soft satin
fabric, woven in fine soft yarns with a lustrous finish. |
A very soft satin
fabric, woven in fine soft yarns with a lustrous finish.
Used mainly for expensive lingerie. See Satin. |
| PEAU DE SOIE |
fabrics |
A French term,
meaning literally 'skin of silk' |
A French term,
meaning literally 'skin of silk' applied originally to
a fine silk fabric, the term is now also used to describe
fabrics made from synthetic fibres, such as polyester
and acetate, that have the typical look of 'peau de soie'.
It is a satin weave with matt finish on both sides, and
is usually a firm, heavy fabric in plain colours. Used
for formal dresses. |
| PEBBLE |
fabrics |
A term often used
for the characteristic appearance of a crêpe fabric. |
A term often used
for the characteristic appearance of a crêpe fabric. |
| PEBBLE WEAVE |
fabrics |
A granite weave. |
A granite weave. |
| PECCARY LEATHER |
fabrics |
A lightweight pigskin
leather. |
A lightweight pigskin
leather. Used for gloves. |
| PECTASE |
³ |
See under Enzymes. |
See under Enzymes. |
| PEEL BOND STRENGTH |
general |
Actual force required
to peel or to separate two layers of bonded goods. |
Actual force required
to peel or to separate two layers of bonded goods. This
test is done on the fabric both on wet and dry. Result
expressed in unit weight of pull per one-inch width of
the bonded goods. |
| PEGGING |
processes, operations |
A finishing process
that is used to produce a lustre on velveteens. |
A finishing process
that is used to produce a lustre on velveteens. The pile
is rubbed with blocks of wood or soapstone |
| PEKIN |
fabrics |
A design in which
wide stripes of equal width are woven in different colours
or weaves |
A design in which
wide stripes of equal width are woven in different colours
or weaves |
| PELT |
general |
Skin of an animal,
including the hair. |
Skin of an animal,
including the hair. Specifically, the skin of sheep, including
the wool. |
| PENCIL STRIPE |
fabrics |
A dark stripe on
a lighter ground (regardless of the width of stripe. |
A dark stripe on
a lighter ground (regardless of the width of stripe. See
also Pin stripe and Chalk stripe. |
| PENCILLING |
processes, operations |
In printing, the
touching up of a printed fabric with a fine brush. |
In printing, the
touching up of a printed fabric with a fine brush. |
| PENETRABILITY OF
FABRIC |
fabrics |
A fabric's ability
to permit penetration by rain |
A fabric's ability
to permit penetration by rain |
| PENETRATION OF
SIZE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
The extent to which
a size solution penetrates into the yarn structure. |
The extent to which
a size solution penetrates into the yarn structure. |
| PENTA-LOBAL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A five-sided man-made
fibre as seen in cross section under the microscope. |
A five-sided man-made
fibre as seen in cross section under the microscope. The
modification of the circular shape to the penta-lobal
has been done to increase the lustre of the yarn. |
| PENTAGRAPH |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
The machine using
the pantograph principle to transfer at one time as many
print-design repeats as are required around the surface
of the copper cylinder |
The machine using
the pantograph principle to transfer at one time as many
print-design repeats as are required around the surface
of the copper cylinder. Originally the design was always
increased five times in size on to the zinc master plate
before being transferred at original size on to the surface
of the copper cylinder; hence this traditional corruption
of the word 'pantograph' in textile trade. |
| PEPPER AND SALT |
fabrics |
Fabric having fine
speckled effect |
Fabric having fine
speckled effect. The appearance of cloth suggests a mixture
of salt and pepper. The effect is obtained by the use
of two-coloured twisted yarns, ordinarily in black and
white or by the intricacy of weave with two or more solid
coloured yarns. Cloth also made in shades of grey, brown,
green, and blue, etc. See also Salt and pepper. |
| PERCALE |
fabrics |
A closely woven
plain weave fabric, usually of Egyptian cotton, or lighter
weight than chintz. |
A closely woven
plain weave fabric, usually of Egyptian cotton, or lighter
weight than chintz. A percale has smooth surface and compact
structure, may be plain or printed, glazed or unglazed.
It is hardwearing and launders well. Used for blouses,
shirts, and children's clothes, sheets and duvet covers.
See also under Sheeting.
Percale, as applied to bed sheeting, is a plain weave
fabric with not fewer than 180 yarns/inch2. |
| PERCALINE |
fabrics |
Lightweight cotton
print fabric similar to lawn, with a bright soft finish. |
Lightweight cotton
print fabric similar to lawn, with a bright soft finish.
Usually the yarn is mercerised. Used for lining fur garments. |
| PERCE |
fabrics |
Perforated effect. |
Perforated effect.
Specifically, eye-let patterns. |
| PERCENT ELONGATION |
general |
Deprecated term. |
Deprecated term.
Use the term Elongation. |
| PERCENTAGE COVER |
fabrics |
Cover factor as
a percentage of the maximum possible for a particular
weave structure. |
Cover factor as
a percentage of the maximum possible for a particular
weave structure. |
| PERCENTAGE MATURITY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A method of expressing,
numerically, the maturity of a sample of cotton fibres |
A method of expressing,
numerically, the maturity of a sample of cotton fibres.
It is the percentage fibres in the sample whose walls
have developed to greater than specified degree. See also
Maturity ratio and Percentage maturity |
| PERCENTAGE POINT |
general |
A difference of
1% of a base quantity |
A difference of
1% of a base quantity |
| PERCH |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A machine used
for inspecting fabrics for defects. |
A machine used
for inspecting fabrics for defects. The machine permits
full width inspection of the cloth |
| PERCHING |
processes, operations |
Examination of
woven goods to record all visible defects and imperfections |
Examination of
woven goods to record all visible defects and imperfections
for correction in subsequent finishing operations, or
for quality classification of finished goods. |
| PERFORATED WEAVE |
fabrics |
An open mesh character
of mock-leno fabric created by the weave |
An open mesh character
of mock-leno fabric created by the weave. The effect may
be emphasised by leaving one or more dents empty and varying
the rate of take-up. Lightweight open textures are sometimes
called to as 'imitation mock gauze'. |
| PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS,
FABRICS |
fabrics |
See Fabric performance
characteristics. |
See Fabric performance
characteristics. |
| PERFORMANCE PROPERTY |
general |
In wear testing,
any chemical or physical property of a fibre, yarn, or
fabric that is evaluated during the wear-refurbishing
cycles. |
In wear testing,
any chemical or physical property of a fibre, yarn, or
fabric that is evaluated during the wear-refurbishing
cycles. |
| PERLE |
processes, operations |
A finishing process
used on woollen dress fabrics, which raises the nap in
the form of dots. |
A finishing process
used on woollen dress fabrics, which raises the nap in
the form of dots. |
| PERLOK PROCESS |
processes, operations |
A process whereby
groups of continuous filament tow are converted through
breaking or cutting into a top or sliver. |
A process whereby
groups of continuous filament tow are converted through
breaking or cutting into a top or sliver. |
| PERLON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Trade name of a
polyamide fibre. |
Trade name of a
polyamide fibre. Has the same properties as nylon. |
| PERMANENT DEFORMATION |
general |
Same as Permanent
set |
Same as Permanent
set |
| PERMANENT FINISH |
processes, operations |
A finishing process
applied to various fabrics which will retain their specific
properties |
A finishing process
applied to various fabrics which will retain their specific
properties, such as glaze on chintz, crispness in organdy,
smoothness on cotton table damask, crease resistance,
crush resistance, and shrink resistance, during normal
period of wear and laundering. However it is misnomer,
because in most cases finishes are not completely permanent.
The words resistant or durable are more accurate. |
| PERMANENT PLEATING |
processes, operations |
Wide variety of
permanently pleated fabric available. |
Wide variety of
permanently pleated fabric available. Is usually knife
pleated-narrow pleats on fine fabric, wider ones on thicker
fabrics. The fabric may be of almost any weave, including
knit, and may be closely woven or have a lacy pattern.
If the fibre is synthetic the pleating will be permanent
and therefore probably washable, but if natural fibres
included the pleating cannot be heat set and is therefore
not permanent. Many fabrics are available in matching
colours; one plain cloth, the other pleated, so that garments
combining both can be made. The fabrics vary from chiffon
and georgette, to fine knits and quite heavy skirt and
dress fabrics. Some of it is sold flat with the pleats
removed, some is sold with a paper backing and measured
with the pleats folded. It is all fairly expensive. |
| PERMANENT PRESS |
processes, operations |
This term as a
substitute to 'durable press' is undesirable |
This term as a
substitute to 'durable press' is undesirable. See Durable
press. |
| PERMANENT SET |
processes, operations |
See under Setting. |
See under Setting. |
| PERMANENT STARCHLESS
FINISH |
processes, operations |
A finishing process
that impregnates a fabric and is not dissolved in laundering. |
A finishing process
that impregnates a fabric and is not dissolved in laundering.
The cloth returns to its original crispness when ironed. |
| PERMASTIFF SEW-IN |
accessories |
See Under Sew-in
woven interfacings. |
See Under Sew-in
woven interfacings. |
| PERMEABILITY |
general |
The rate of flow
of a fluid under a differential pressure through a material. |
The rate of flow
of a fluid under a differential pressure through a material.
See also Air permeability.
Fluid under differential pressure includes: gas under
differential gas pressure, vapour under differential vapour
pressure, water under differential hydrostatic pressure |
| PEROXIDE |
processes, operations |
An oxide containing
a relatively high proportion of oxygen. |
An oxide containing
a relatively high proportion of oxygen. Strictly, a higher
oxide in which oxygen is joined to oxygen, as in hydrogen
peroxide. Very useful as bleaching agents. |
| PERSPIRATION |
general |
A saline fluid
secreted by the sweat glands |
A saline fluid
secreted by the sweat glands, which can cause on fabrics,
odour, loss of colour and strength.
There are perspiration resistant finishes which are useful
for dress fabrics and especially linings. |
| PERSPIRATION-RESISTANT |
fabrics |
A term applied
to fabrics or dyes which are relatively unaffected by
acid and alkaline perspiration. |
A term applied
to fabrics or dyes which are relatively unaffected by
acid and alkaline perspiration. |
| PETERSHAM RIBBON |
accessories |
MILLINERY. Ribbon
in plain weave originally used on ladies' hats which usually
has a continuous filament warp |
1. MILLINERY. Ribbon
in plain weave originally used on ladies' hats which usually
has a continuous filament warp, typically with 10-12 picks
per cm of cotton or spun viscose giving it a pronounced
rib. The edge is formed by the turn of the weft.
2. SKIRT. A narrow fabric having a pronounced rib, usually
with 9-12 picks per cm and having lateral stiffness produced
either by the high density of the weave or by a finishing
process. In older times, some were woven with pockets
for whale born or plastic strips to give added lateral
stiffness. In the contrast to Petersham ribbon, millinery,
above, it has an edge of contrasting weave. |
| PETIT POINT STITCH |
general |
A small, slanting
stitch worked over the separated double threads of the
canvas |
A small, slanting
stitch worked over the separated double threads of the
canvas to form even lines of solid background. Used on
cushions, chair covers and handbags. |
| PH (pH) |
general |
A measure of the
acidity or alkalinity of a solution |
A measure of the
acidity or alkalinity of a solution, with neutrality represented
by a value of 7, with increasing acidity represented by
increasingly smaller values, and with increasing alkalinity
represented by increasingly larger values.
The negative logarithm of the effective hydrogen ion concentration
or hydrogen ion activity in gram equivalents per litre
used in expressing both acidity and alkalinity on a scale
whose values run from 0-14, with 7 representing neutrality,
numbers less than 7 increasing acidity, and numbers greater
than 7 increasing alkalinity. |
| PHILIPPINE EMBROIDERY |
processes, operations |
Hand needlework,
characterised by dainty floral designs. |
Hand needlework,
characterised by dainty floral designs. Primarily used
on less expensive lingerie. |
| PHOOL KARY |
fabrics |
A striped cotton
muslin embroidered with small buds, branches and other
designs. |
A striped cotton
muslin embroidered with small buds, branches and other
designs. From around Lashkar, India. |
| PHORMIUM |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The fibre from
wildly grown flax plant 'phoriun tenax' in New Zealand. |
The fibre from
wildly grown flax plant 'phoriun tenax' in New Zealand.
Fairly strong and flexible, and has good resistance to
sea water. Used mainly for ropes, twines and coarse bagging
materials. Same as New Zealand flax |
| PHOTOCHROMISM |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In some dyeings
the colour of a dyeing changes on exposure to light, but
reverts to its original state after the sample is kept
in the dark. |
In some dyeings
the colour of a dyeing changes on exposure to light, but
reverts to its original state after the sample is kept
in the dark.
A qualitative designation for a reversible change in colour
of any kind (whether a change in hue or chroma) which
is immediately noticeable upon termination of light exposures
when the exposed area of a specimen is compared to the
unexposed area. The reversion of the colour change or
instability of the hue or chroma upon standing in the
dark distinguishes phototropism from fading.
Photochromism is a reaction influenced by the wavelength
of the light energy from the sun. These wavelengths can
be long and invisible (infra red), the medium and visible
and short and invisible (UV radiation).
In technical terms, photochromism is the inter-conversion
of two molecular states (A & B) brought about by the
absorption of light. A absorbs light at a certain wavelength
and converts to B. In the absence of the activating wavelength,
B spontaneously reconverts to A. It is a molecular see-saw
that is at the heart of photochromism. |
| PHOTODEGRADATION |
processes, operations |
Degradation caused
by the absorption of light or other radiation and by consequent
chemical reactions. |
Degradation caused
by the absorption of light or other radiation and by consequent
chemical reactions. Ultra-violet radiation is an especially
potent cause |
| PHOTOGRAPHIC ENGRAVING |
processes, operations |
See Process engraving |
See Process engraving |
| PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTING |
processes, operations |
Application of
a photographic image to cloth |
Application of
a photographic image to cloth, by transfer from photo-engraved
copper rolls or rollers. |
| PHOTOGRAVURE |
processes, operations |
The process by
which AN 'engraving' is produced in a metal plate or cylinder
by means of light acting on a sensitised surface and the
resultant image then being etched in acid. |
The process by
which AN 'engraving' is produced in a metal plate or cylinder
by means of light acting on a sensitised surface and the
resultant image then being etched in acid. Conventional
gravure cylinders all have cells or 'dots' of the same
width but varying depth so that they hold either more
or less ink, thus producing varying tones of one colour.
One of the main methods of printing transfer paper for
transfer printing |
| PHOTOMECHANICAL
TECHNIQUES |
processes, operations |
In printing, photographic
techniques |
In printing, photographic
techniques in which a screen serves to break up the gradations
of a continuous-tone subject into a series of minute dots
of varying size or a series of fine lines. |
| PHOTOMETER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
An instrument that
measures the light reflectancy of surfaces. |
An instrument that
measures the light reflectancy of surfaces. Find use in
the testing of whiteness, soil removal, colour fading,
etc. |
| PHOTOMICROGRAPH |
general |
A photograph of
a magnified object obtained by attaching a camera to a
microscope. |
A photograph of
a magnified object obtained by attaching a camera to a
microscope. |
| PHTHALOGEN |
³ |
See under Ingrain
dye. |
See under Ingrain
dye. |
| PHYSICAL TEXTILE
TESTING |
general |
Laboratory tests
made on fibres, yarns and fabrics by mechanical devices. |
Laboratory tests
made on fibres, yarns and fabrics by mechanical devices. |
| PHYSIOLOGICAL COMFORTS
OF GARMENTS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
One of the main
purposes of clothing is to protect the body from heat
loss. |
One of the main
purposes of clothing is to protect the body from heat
loss. It has been found that 'still air' is the best possible
insulator, which plays a very important part in retaining
body warmth. There is trapped air between the yarns and
fibres of a fabric, also within the kinks and curls of
textural filaments, and in any brushed or pile surface,
all of which increases a fabric's warmth virtually by
the way the air is used. There is very large volume of
air in most fabrics as, for instance, in a blanket more
than 90% of the bulk is occupied by air. In order to provide
insulation the entrapped air must be immobilised, and
therefore under windy conditions the outer layer of the
clothing assembly should be almost impermeable to air.
Although fabrics can be constructed to have very low permeability,
no woven or knitted fabric can ever be completely impermeable.
This can only be achieved by laminating the fabric to
a plastic film or coating. But, very closely woven cotton
fabrics, or polyester and cotton blended, using fine yarns
set very closely together so that air and wind have difficulty
in passing between them, from a reasonably good insulating
outer layer, particularly if finished with a showerproof
treatment.
The value of air gaps between clothing layers, has been
tested on a person wearing a vest, shirt and jacket show
that has been found out to be tests, and the results show
that out of the total thermal resistance for the whole
assembly, 66% is due to the garments and 34% to the air
gaps between them; such air gaps between garment layers
can contribute significantly to the warmth of a clothing
system. Yet because fibres in a textile fabric occupy
only a small fraction of the total volume, the difference
in thermal conductivity between one fibre and another
is unimportant in clothing for average climates.
These with low conductivity, often used for internal layers
of cold weather clothing, are polypropylene, polyester
and polyvinylchloride. Wool, acrylic, and cellulose acetate
are higher, then viscose and polyethylene. Cotton has
the highest thermal conductivity; i.e. produces the lowest
heat retention. The thermal insulation of air is about
one thirtieth of most fibres and about one sixth of most
fabrics.
Textiles can protect the body from excessive radiant heat
such as the sun's rays, or the heat of a furnace. In this
case a dense fabric construction is necessary in order
to gain maximum protection. Colour can also divert radiant
heat from the body by means of reflection. White provides
good heat reflection whereas black is the least effective.
Thick fabrics coated with aluminium foil give a high protection
against radiant heat, although aluminium paint is less
efficient. In addition to protecting the body against
excessive heat from the outside, it is necessary in cold
climates to protect it from radiant heat loss from the
body into the clothing assembly or the outside atmosphere.
Under normal conditions of atmospheric temperature and
humidity (the amount of moisture in the air) and of body
activity, the entire human body is continuously producing
perspiration in order to regulate the body's temperature,
which evaporates within the skin layers and is emitted
in the form of water vapour, which is invisible. Physiologists
refer to it as 'sensible' perspiration which is liquid
sweat normally only appearing when the temperature and
humidity of the air is abnormally high or the individual
indulges in strenuous exercise. A third form of perspiration
is the apocrine sweating from certain glands which can
contribute to offensive body odours; this can be either
acid or alkaline. But as long as the normal perspiration
remains insensible - that is, in vapour form - a person
will feel reasonably comfortable. Yet if water vapour
cannot escape quickly enough through the clothing, the
percentage of relative humidity at skin level will increase,
making the wearer feel clammy and if the conditions and
type of clothing are such that the relative humidity within
the clothing is increased to 100%, liquid moisture is
formed on the skin and sometimes on the garment, by condensation
of the water vapour, and the discomfort is increased.
To be comfortable the skin must be kept in a dry condition
and the body temperature should be constant, not too high
or too low - between 35°C and 40°C, preferably at 37°C.
The need for fabrics to allow transmission of water vapour
is generally understood but it is often confused with
air permeability. Air and water vapour pass through a
fabric in different ways. All textile fibres irrespective
of their chemical composition are impermeable to air and
therefore the passage of air through a fabric can only
take place through spaces between the fibres, called the
interstices.
The water vapour on the other hand, passes through fabric
in several ways, sometimes through the interstices and
sometimes right through the fibre itself, evaporating
in the process, which can cause cooling of the skin. Every
fibre has a different ability to absorb and evaporate
moisture. For example, PVC fibres, polypropylene and polyethylene
fibres have none; polyester and nylon have very little;
wool has reasonably good ability, whilst linen, viscose
and cotton are very good for this purposes. Water vapour
can pass through all absorbent fibres, but some have better
facilities for moisture evaporation than others. It is
possible to have a fabric with very low air permeability
but with high moisture vapour permeability, dependent
on the fibre used.
For tropical clothing the fabrics should be made of open
weave to allow air permeability and to absorbent with
high evaporation ability. Also the air between the body
and the layers of clothing should be kept circulating.
Open necks and sleeves, shirts at the hips, not belted
or tucked in enables the air currents to pass through
the garment. Conversely, to provide extra warmth in the
same garment, the collar can be buttoned closely at the
neck, the sleeve cuffs fastened round wrist and the waist
belted tightly, which stops the air currents and creates
a still air insulation round the body, providing as much
extra warmth as putting on a additional lightweight garment.
Softness is a quality generally associated with comfort. |
| PHYSIOLOGICAL DISCOMFORTS
OF GARMENTS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Sensorial discomfort,
Thermophysiological discomfort, Garment Fitting discomfort |
The qualities that
are generally associated with physiological discomforts
of garments are:
Sensorial discomfort: What the garment feels like when
worn next to skin; allergy, tickle, prickle, initial cold
feel of fabric, abrasion of skin, loose fibres are shed,
wet fabric clings to the skin, etc.
Thermophysiological discomfort: Whether the garment feel
too warm, or too cold, and it transport sweat away from
skin, etc.
Garment Fitting discomfort: Whether the garment is tight
fit overall, or tight fit at local areas, etc. |
| PICK |
fabrics, processes,
operations |
An individual length
of weft yarn (filling yarn) or group of threads |
Sometimes called
Shot.
1. An individual length of weft yarn (filling yarn) or
group of threads, or
2. The process of inserting the filling yarn. See Pick
spacing. |
| PICK AND PICK |
fabrics |
A fabric with alternating
weft threads, one pick of one kind or colour and one pick
of another. |
A fabric with alternating
weft threads, one pick of one kind or colour and one pick
of another. See also Pick at will. |
| PICK AT WILL |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A loom on which
it is possible to pick more than once from one side or
single picks from different sides. |
A |
