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P
Word
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P.A. COTTON fibers, filaments, yarns Partially acetylated cotton Partially acetylated cotton. This type of cotton fibres have good resistance to deterioration from mildew, rot and heat, but they are inferior to fully acetylated cotton in flat and flex abrasion and in tensile strength.
P/C fabrics Denotes a fabric made from a blend of polyester and cotton fibres. Denotes a fabric made from a blend of polyester and cotton fibres. Also called P-C
PACKAGE fibers, filaments, yarns A length of yarn wound on a carrier or bobbin. A length of yarn wound on a carrier or bobbin. See also Yarn package.
PACKAGE BUILD fibers, filaments, yarns The manner in which the yarn coils are arranged on a package. The manner in which the yarn coils are arranged on a package.
PACKAGE DYEING processes, operations A method of dyeing yarn. The yarn is wound uniformly on perforated cones or cheeses. A method of dyeing yarn. The yarn is wound uniformly on perforated cones or cheeses. These packages are then placed in a special dyeing machine in which the liquor is circulated through the yarn alternately from the outside of the package to the centre and then from the centre to the outside of the package.
PACKING DEFECTS IN GARMENT defects See under Garment defects, classified. See under Garment defects, classified.
PAD garments, made-ups, assemblies, processes, operations Abbreviated form for Padding 1. A stiffing, wadding, soft mass, cushion, etc.
2. Abbreviated form for Padding
PAD-DYEING processes, operations Applying a dye liquor to textiles Applying a dye liquor to textiles, either by passing the material through a bath and then squeezing out the excess with heavy rollers or by passing it between squeeze rollers, the bottom one of which carries the liquor paste.
PAD-STEAM CONTIUOUS DYEING processes, operations A speedy pad-dyeing process A speedy pad-dyeing process, which operates at high temperatures and is used mainly to apply vat dyes in approximately one-tenth the time required for batch methods like jig dyeing and pad dyeing.
PADDER apparatus, equipage, tools A set of squeeze rollers used to impregnate any fabric with a liquid A set of squeeze rollers used to impregnate any fabric with a liquid by continuous passage of the fabric through the liquid and then between the rollers.
PADDING processes, operations Cloth impregnation process executed through a padding mangle Cloth impregnation process executed through a padding mangle
PADDING STITCH general A herringbone or zigzag basting stitch A herringbone or zigzag basting stitch that is helpful in the shaping of a garment.
PADDING YARN fabrics See Wadding yarn See Wadding yarn
PADDLE DYEING processes, operations A method of dyeing clothing, hosiery and other small pieces while packaged loosely in mesh bags A method of dyeing clothing, hosiery and other small pieces while packaged loosely in mesh bags. The dyeing machine consists of an open tank and revolving paddles which circulate the bags in the dyeing bath
PADDOCK fabrics Term describes a worsted fabric which resembles gabardine in weight and moisture repellence. Term describes a worsted fabric which resembles gabardine in weight and moisture repellence. Commonly seen at race courses.
PAINTED CLOTH fabrics A canvas with various mottoes painted in oil A canvas with various mottoes painted in oil. Used for wall hangings.
PAINTED FABRIC fabrics Any fabric with hand-painted designs. Any fabric with hand-painted designs.
PAISLEY fabrics Originally only from Scotland, 'paisley' meant a shawl made in fine soft woollen yarn, with a woven design derived from Indian patterns. Originally only from Scotland, 'paisley' meant a shawl made in fine soft woollen yarn, with a woven design derived from Indian patterns. Fine fabric, always with scroll designs. The true Paisely cloth is very expensive. Now, anything of any fibre or mixture printed with the traditional elaborate multicoloured scrolls is described as paisley design.
PAJAMA CHECKS fabrics Fabric with two, three or more warp and weft threads weaving as one in plain and fancy basket weaves Fabric with two, three or more warp and weft threads weaving as one in plain and fancy basket weaves. Similar to a checked dimity. Used in union suits, shorts, hospital gowns and summer dresses.
PAJAMA CLOTH fabrics A hard-wearing cotton (once silk) fabric with a close warp and woven in stripes of varying widths and colours. A hard-wearing cotton (once silk) fabric with a close warp and woven in stripes of varying widths and colours. The fabric is often brushed on the right side. See Pajama
PAJAMAS garments, made-ups, assemblies A two piece ensemble consisting of a top and a bottom A two piece ensemble consisting of a top and a bottom generally used for, but not limited to, nightwear.
PAK-NIT processes, operations Mechanical dry system of compressive shrinkage Mechanical dry system of compressive shrinkage used to make tubular knit goods dimensionally stable; calenders are eliminated.
PALAMPORES fabrics Indian hand-painted cotton fabric with fairly large size designs Indian hand-painted cotton fabric with fairly large size designs; often patterned with 'Tree of life' motifs. Used for bedcovers, hangings and framed
PALGHAT MAT garments, made-ups, assemblies A fine sleeping mat made in India from the leaves of the sedge 'Cyperus laevigatus'. A fine sleeping mat made in India from the leaves of the sedge 'Cyperus laevigatus'.
PALM FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns A general term sometimes applied to any fibres obtained from the plants or trees of the palm family, e.g. 'Palma', 'Palmetto', 'Palmyra', 'Piassaca', etc A general term sometimes applied to any fibres obtained from the plants or trees of the palm family, e.g. 'Palma', 'Palmetto', 'Palmyra', 'Piassaca', etc
PALMERING processes, operations A finishing treatment to give mellowness to the hand of the fabrics. A finishing treatment to give mellowness to the hand of the fabrics. The equipment consists of a large, steam-heated cylinder covered with an endless papermaker's felt apron. The material is led between two continuous aprons and the heat, aided by the smoothness of the aprons, will give the fabrics a smooth, calendered effect which is more appealing than an ordinary calender finish.
PAN FIBRES fibers, filaments, yarns See Polyacrylonitrile fibres. See Polyacrylonitrile fibres.
PANAMA fabrics Very lightweight fabric used for men's summer and tropical wear and women's dresses. Very lightweight fabric used for men's summer and tropical wear and women's dresses. The yarns used are cotton and worsted in the traditional Panama cloth, although other fibres such as polyester and viscose are sometimes used. The cloth has a recognisable square-weave effect, and is usually in plain colours. A crisp fabric.
PANAMA CANVAS fabrics A canvas of matt weave that is given a beetled finish and used for embroidery purposes. A canvas of matt weave that is given a beetled finish and used for embroidery purposes.
PANAMA HAT garments, made-ups, assemblies Men's and women's straw hat made from fine, hand-plaited, creamy coloured toquilla straw. Men's and women's straw hat made from fine, hand-plaited, creamy coloured toquilla straw. Panama hats are mainly made in Ecuador.
PANAMA WEAVE fabrics A weave which consists of several warp and weft threads crossing each other at once A weave which consists of several warp and weft threads crossing each other at once, producing a mat-like effect
PANELS fabrics Knitted hosiery swatches or panels used for testing purposes. Knitted hosiery swatches or panels used for testing purposes.
PANNÉ fabrics Flattened or pressed flat as Panné velvet. Flattened or pressed flat as Panné velvet.
PANNÉ SATIN fabrics Silk or synthetic satin with an unusually high lustre because of a special finish Silk or synthetic satin with an unusually high lustre because of a special finish
PANNÉ VELVET fabrics Silk or synthetic velvet with a short pile on the right side that is pressed flat and laid in one direction during manufacture. Silk or synthetic velvet with a short pile on the right side that is pressed flat and laid in one direction during manufacture. This gives the effect of a shiny shimmery velvet. The fabric is soft and floppy, comfortable to wear. It is the easiest of all velvets to sew. Drapes well. Used for eveningwear, robes, leisure clothes, tops and trousers.
PANTING fabrics Sometimes refers to Trousering. Sometimes refers to Trousering.
PANTOGRAPH apparatus, equipage, tools A device used to copy a printing design in a scale other than the original. A device used to copy a printing design in a scale other than the original.
PAPER FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns Fibres unsuitable for textile operations, but which find use in paper making. Fibres unsuitable for textile operations, but which find use in paper making. These include flax, cotton, rayon, linen, silk, nylon, vinyl fibres, jute and other bast fibres. These are used in conjunction with other normal paper raw materials, such as wood pulp.
PAPER MUSLIN fabrics A lightweight cotton muslin which has been sized and glazed, mainly used for lining. A lightweight cotton muslin which has been sized and glazed, mainly used for lining.
PAPER TAFFETA fabrics A fine-weave, lightweight taffeta fabric which has been treated to make it crisper than usual. A fine-weave, lightweight taffeta fabric which has been treated to make it crisper than usual. The crispness is usually a permanent finish. It produces a paper-like crackle. See Taffeta.
PAPER YARN fibers, filaments, yarns Treated paper of high strength is made into paper yarns for use alone, to twist with other fibre yarns, or to surround the core in a core yarn. Treated paper of high strength is made into paper yarns for use alone, to twist with other fibre yarns, or to surround the core in a core yarn. These yarns are used for knitted and woven garments and household articles
PAPERING processes, operations The insertion of cold or heated board elements (papers) into folds of fabric prior to pressing in a hydraulic press. The insertion of cold or heated board elements (papers) into folds of fabric prior to pressing in a hydraulic press.
PAPERY FINISH processes, operations A hyper-smooth finish on fabric produced by sizing and calendering. A hyper-smooth finish on fabric produced by sizing and calendering. Often quite and crisp in hand.
PAPIER MACHÉ general A paper-based mixture that can be shaped or moulded into strong, lightweight articles such as dress forms. A paper-based mixture that can be shaped or moulded into strong, lightweight articles such as dress forms.
PAPYRUS FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns Fibres from a rush-like aquatic plant, formerly common in Egypt. Used for writing paper. Fibres from a rush-like aquatic plant, formerly common in Egypt. Used for writing paper. The stem fibres have been used since ancient times for cloth, sails, mats, cords, etc.
PARACHUTE FABRIC fabrics A lightweight but strong fabric used for parachutes A lightweight but strong fabric used for parachutes; originally of silk but now of nylon yarn.
PARAFFIN DUCK fabrics A stiff, heavy, water-proofed duck treated with a preparation of paraffin. A stiff, heavy, water-proofed duck treated with a preparation of paraffin. Used for coats and trousers for rough outdoor wear.
PARAGUAY LACE fabrics Single threads are used to produce spider's web effects, which are then woven together. Single threads are used to produce spider's web effects, which are then woven together.
PARALLEL LINE GRATINGS apparatus, equipage, tools Transparent plates containing uniformly spaced parallel lines in the cross-wise direction. Transparent plates containing uniformly spaced parallel lines in the cross-wise direction. It is possible to determine the number of threads per unit length (cm or inch) in a fabric by selecting an appropriate grating and placing it parallel to a set of threads. The number of lines appearing on the grating indicates the difference between the total number of lines on the grating and the total number of threads in the area covered by the grating. By placing a grating at a small angle to a set of threads, irregularities in their spacing can be detected
PARALLEL WORSTED SYSTEM processes, operations See Modified worsted system. See Modified worsted system.
PARALLEL WOUND PACKAGE fibers, filaments, yarns A package on which the yarn coils are wound side-by-side roughly perpendicular to the package axis. A package on which the yarn coils are wound side-by-side roughly perpendicular to the package axis.
PARALLELING processes, operations Laying strands of fibres straight and even by machine operations, such as combing or drawing. Laying strands of fibres straight and even by machine operations, such as combing or drawing.
PARAMATTA fabrics A fine quality 1/2 twill fabric with worsted weft, used particularly in the making of double-texture rubber-proofed garments. A fine quality 1/2 twill fabric with worsted weft, used particularly in the making of double-texture rubber-proofed garments. The term was originally applied to a dress fabric with silk (later cotton) warp, woven in Paramatta, New South Wales.
PARCHMENTIZING processes, operations A finishing treatment, comprising a short contact with, e.g. sulphuric acid of high concentration A finishing treatment, comprising a short contact with, e.g. sulphuric acid of high concentration, the aim of which is to produce a variety of effects, depending on the type of fabric and the conditions used, ranging from a linen-like handle to a transparent organdie effect. The treatment is applied mainly to cotton. Apart from sulphuric acid some other reagents also produce these effects.
PARIS BINDING accessories A binding, with firm handle, of twill or herringbone twill weave (usually 3/1) A binding, with firm handle, of twill or herringbone twill weave (usually 3/1) originally made with silk warp and polished cotton weft, but usually made with mercerised cotton or continuous filament warp and weft. Often used to reinforce clothing subject to high abrasion. See Kick tape.
PART WOOL FELT fabrics A textile composed of wool fibres A textile composed of wool fibres in combination with any one or any combination of natural or man-made fibres.
PARTIAL ACETYLATION processes, operations A process, in which cotton in the form of fibre or yarn is subjected to partial acetylation A process, in which cotton in the form of fibre or yarn is subjected to partial acetylation to impart it, special properties. See also Acetylation.
PARTIAL RACKING processes, operations See under Racking See under Racking
PARTIALLY ORIENTED YARN fibers, filaments, yarns A continuous filament yarn made by extruding a synthetic polymer A continuous filament yarn made by extruding a synthetic polymer so that a substantial degree of molecular orientation is present in the resulting filaments, but further molecular orientation is possible, i.e. filament yarn which is incompletely drawn.
PASHMINA TWEED fabrics A term used to describe tweed fabric woven with hand-spun cashmere yarn on hand-looms in Kashmir A term used to describe tweed fabric woven with hand-spun cashmere yarn on hand-looms in Kashmir
PASSEMENTERIE accessories Trimmings, especially braids, beads, cord, gimp, etc Trimmings, especially braids, beads, cord, gimp, etc
PASTELS fabrics Fabrics dyed in light shade colours. Fabrics dyed in light shade colours.
PATCH fabrics An ornamental piece of fabric generally with embroidered design, sewn on a garment. An ornamental piece of fabric generally with embroidered design, sewn on a garment. May be an insignia, badge or other decorative trim.
PATCH POCKET garments, made-ups, assemblies A pocket formed by attaching a piece of material to the surface of a garment. A pocket formed by attaching a piece of material to the surface of a garment.
PATCH WORK processes, operations Pieces of fabric in various colours and/or shapes sewn together Pieces of fabric in various colours and/or shapes sewn together to form a textile article such as a quilt or pillow cover.
PATENT LEATHER fabrics A varnished leather that is very expensive. A varnished leather that is very expensive. Used mainly for shoes and handbags.
PATOLA fabrics A plain weave, richly decorated, silk fabric with a tie-dyed or hand-blocked border, made in India. A plain weave, richly decorated, silk fabric with a tie-dyed or hand-blocked border, made in India.
PATTERN fabrics, garments, made-ups, assemblies Design of a fabric which is either woven-in or printed on the cloth. 1. Design of a fabric which is either woven-in or printed on the cloth.
2. A replica of garment in flat card or paper. A template used for marking out the parts of a garment on material prior to cutting. See also Block pattern.
PATTERN BLANKET fabrics Also called Designer's blanket Also called Designer's blanket. The product of a system for designing fabrics, especially suitings, whereby a warp consisting of a number of different block stripes is woven in a given pattern and weft in different colours or picking patterns are introduced at intervals. The resulting 'blanket' exhibits a number of combinations of colours in a single construction, some of which constitute a random range. Pattern blankets are used to provide samples for commercial selection.
PATTERN CHAIN apparatus, equipage, tools Chain used on looms to control the pattern of the fabric. Chain used on looms to control the pattern of the fabric.
PATTERN CUTTER general A person who determines the shapes of the components of garments, to ensure that they fit together A person who determines the shapes of the components of garments, to ensure that they fit together and, when assembled, reflect the intentions of the designer and also ensure that they conform to the dimensions of intended size.
PATTERN DEFECTS IN GARMENT defects See under Garment defects, classified. See under Garment defects, classified.
PATTERN WARPING processes, operations Also called Band warping. Also called Band warping. The process of preparing warp beams over two stages; first winding the yarn in narrow tapes on a large drum or reel, and then rewinding the complete warp onto the beam.
PBI FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns P.B.I. is an abbreviation for 'polybenzimidazole'. A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is a long chain aromatic polymer having reoccurring imidazole groups as an integral part of the polymer chain. P.B.I. is an abbreviation for 'polybenzimidazole'.
PEANUT FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns A synthetic staple fibre produced from a protein base derivative from peanut meal. A synthetic staple fibre produced from a protein base derivative from peanut meal. It has soft hand, is quite lofty, but is relatively low in dry and wet tenacity.
PEARLE COTTON fibers, filaments, yarns A loosely twisted, mercerised cotton thread with a rope or corded appearance. A loosely twisted, mercerised cotton thread with a rope or corded appearance. It has some weaving and knitting applications but mainly used for needlework of various kinds.
PEARLS fabrics Also called Purls Also called Purls.In lace, small loops either at the edge of a piece of narrow lace or used as decoration in Brides.
PEAU fabrics A French term for skin. A French term for skin. Combined with one or more words to designate fabrics.
PEAU DE CYGNE fabrics A very soft satin fabric, woven in fine soft yarns with a lustrous finish. A very soft satin fabric, woven in fine soft yarns with a lustrous finish. Used mainly for expensive lingerie. See Satin.
PEAU DE SOIE fabrics A French term, meaning literally 'skin of silk' A French term, meaning literally 'skin of silk' applied originally to a fine silk fabric, the term is now also used to describe fabrics made from synthetic fibres, such as polyester and acetate, that have the typical look of 'peau de soie'. It is a satin weave with matt finish on both sides, and is usually a firm, heavy fabric in plain colours. Used for formal dresses.
PEBBLE fabrics A term often used for the characteristic appearance of a crêpe fabric. A term often used for the characteristic appearance of a crêpe fabric.
PEBBLE WEAVE fabrics A granite weave. A granite weave.
PECCARY LEATHER fabrics A lightweight pigskin leather. A lightweight pigskin leather. Used for gloves.
PECTASE ³ See under Enzymes. See under Enzymes.
PEEL BOND STRENGTH general Actual force required to peel or to separate two layers of bonded goods. Actual force required to peel or to separate two layers of bonded goods. This test is done on the fabric both on wet and dry. Result expressed in unit weight of pull per one-inch width of the bonded goods.
PEGGING processes, operations A finishing process that is used to produce a lustre on velveteens. A finishing process that is used to produce a lustre on velveteens. The pile is rubbed with blocks of wood or soapstone
PEKIN fabrics A design in which wide stripes of equal width are woven in different colours or weaves A design in which wide stripes of equal width are woven in different colours or weaves
PELT general Skin of an animal, including the hair. Skin of an animal, including the hair. Specifically, the skin of sheep, including the wool.
PENCIL STRIPE fabrics A dark stripe on a lighter ground (regardless of the width of stripe. A dark stripe on a lighter ground (regardless of the width of stripe. See also Pin stripe and Chalk stripe.
PENCILLING processes, operations In printing, the touching up of a printed fabric with a fine brush. In printing, the touching up of a printed fabric with a fine brush.
PENETRABILITY OF FABRIC fabrics A fabric's ability to permit penetration by rain A fabric's ability to permit penetration by rain
PENETRATION OF SIZE apparatus, equipage, tools The extent to which a size solution penetrates into the yarn structure. The extent to which a size solution penetrates into the yarn structure.
PENTA-LOBAL fibers, filaments, yarns A five-sided man-made fibre as seen in cross section under the microscope. A five-sided man-made fibre as seen in cross section under the microscope. The modification of the circular shape to the penta-lobal has been done to increase the lustre of the yarn.
PENTAGRAPH apparatus, equipage, tools The machine using the pantograph principle to transfer at one time as many print-design repeats as are required around the surface of the copper cylinder The machine using the pantograph principle to transfer at one time as many print-design repeats as are required around the surface of the copper cylinder. Originally the design was always increased five times in size on to the zinc master plate before being transferred at original size on to the surface of the copper cylinder; hence this traditional corruption of the word 'pantograph' in textile trade.
PEPPER AND SALT fabrics Fabric having fine speckled effect Fabric having fine speckled effect. The appearance of cloth suggests a mixture of salt and pepper. The effect is obtained by the use of two-coloured twisted yarns, ordinarily in black and white or by the intricacy of weave with two or more solid coloured yarns. Cloth also made in shades of grey, brown, green, and blue, etc. See also Salt and pepper.
PERCALE fabrics A closely woven plain weave fabric, usually of Egyptian cotton, or lighter weight than chintz. A closely woven plain weave fabric, usually of Egyptian cotton, or lighter weight than chintz. A percale has smooth surface and compact structure, may be plain or printed, glazed or unglazed. It is hardwearing and launders well. Used for blouses, shirts, and children's clothes, sheets and duvet covers. See also under Sheeting.
Percale, as applied to bed sheeting, is a plain weave fabric with not fewer than 180 yarns/inch2.
PERCALINE fabrics Lightweight cotton print fabric similar to lawn, with a bright soft finish. Lightweight cotton print fabric similar to lawn, with a bright soft finish. Usually the yarn is mercerised. Used for lining fur garments.
PERCE fabrics Perforated effect. Perforated effect. Specifically, eye-let patterns.
PERCENT ELONGATION general Deprecated term. Deprecated term. Use the term Elongation.
PERCENTAGE COVER fabrics Cover factor as a percentage of the maximum possible for a particular weave structure. Cover factor as a percentage of the maximum possible for a particular weave structure.
PERCENTAGE MATURITY fibers, filaments, yarns A method of expressing, numerically, the maturity of a sample of cotton fibres A method of expressing, numerically, the maturity of a sample of cotton fibres. It is the percentage fibres in the sample whose walls have developed to greater than specified degree. See also Maturity ratio and Percentage maturity
PERCENTAGE POINT general A difference of 1% of a base quantity A difference of 1% of a base quantity
PERCH apparatus, equipage, tools A machine used for inspecting fabrics for defects. A machine used for inspecting fabrics for defects. The machine permits full width inspection of the cloth
PERCHING processes, operations Examination of woven goods to record all visible defects and imperfections Examination of woven goods to record all visible defects and imperfections for correction in subsequent finishing operations, or for quality classification of finished goods.
PERFORATED WEAVE fabrics An open mesh character of mock-leno fabric created by the weave An open mesh character of mock-leno fabric created by the weave. The effect may be emphasised by leaving one or more dents empty and varying the rate of take-up. Lightweight open textures are sometimes called to as 'imitation mock gauze'.
PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS, FABRICS fabrics See Fabric performance characteristics. See Fabric performance characteristics.
PERFORMANCE PROPERTY general In wear testing, any chemical or physical property of a fibre, yarn, or fabric that is evaluated during the wear-refurbishing cycles. In wear testing, any chemical or physical property of a fibre, yarn, or fabric that is evaluated during the wear-refurbishing cycles.
PERLE processes, operations A finishing process used on woollen dress fabrics, which raises the nap in the form of dots. A finishing process used on woollen dress fabrics, which raises the nap in the form of dots.
PERLOK PROCESS processes, operations A process whereby groups of continuous filament tow are converted through breaking or cutting into a top or sliver. A process whereby groups of continuous filament tow are converted through breaking or cutting into a top or sliver.
PERLON fibers, filaments, yarns Trade name of a polyamide fibre. Trade name of a polyamide fibre. Has the same properties as nylon.
PERMANENT DEFORMATION general Same as Permanent set Same as Permanent set
PERMANENT FINISH processes, operations A finishing process applied to various fabrics which will retain their specific properties A finishing process applied to various fabrics which will retain their specific properties, such as glaze on chintz, crispness in organdy, smoothness on cotton table damask, crease resistance, crush resistance, and shrink resistance, during normal period of wear and laundering. However it is misnomer, because in most cases finishes are not completely permanent. The words resistant or durable are more accurate.
PERMANENT PLEATING processes, operations Wide variety of permanently pleated fabric available. Wide variety of permanently pleated fabric available. Is usually knife pleated-narrow pleats on fine fabric, wider ones on thicker fabrics. The fabric may be of almost any weave, including knit, and may be closely woven or have a lacy pattern. If the fibre is synthetic the pleating will be permanent and therefore probably washable, but if natural fibres included the pleating cannot be heat set and is therefore not permanent. Many fabrics are available in matching colours; one plain cloth, the other pleated, so that garments combining both can be made. The fabrics vary from chiffon and georgette, to fine knits and quite heavy skirt and dress fabrics. Some of it is sold flat with the pleats removed, some is sold with a paper backing and measured with the pleats folded. It is all fairly expensive.
PERMANENT PRESS processes, operations This term as a substitute to 'durable press' is undesirable This term as a substitute to 'durable press' is undesirable. See Durable press.
PERMANENT SET processes, operations See under Setting. See under Setting.
PERMANENT STARCHLESS FINISH processes, operations A finishing process that impregnates a fabric and is not dissolved in laundering. A finishing process that impregnates a fabric and is not dissolved in laundering. The cloth returns to its original crispness when ironed.
PERMASTIFF SEW-IN accessories See Under Sew-in woven interfacings. See Under Sew-in woven interfacings.
PERMEABILITY general The rate of flow of a fluid under a differential pressure through a material. The rate of flow of a fluid under a differential pressure through a material. See also Air permeability.
Fluid under differential pressure includes: gas under differential gas pressure, vapour under differential vapour pressure, water under differential hydrostatic pressure
PEROXIDE processes, operations An oxide containing a relatively high proportion of oxygen. An oxide containing a relatively high proportion of oxygen. Strictly, a higher oxide in which oxygen is joined to oxygen, as in hydrogen peroxide. Very useful as bleaching agents.
PERSPIRATION general A saline fluid secreted by the sweat glands A saline fluid secreted by the sweat glands, which can cause on fabrics, odour, loss of colour and strength.
There are perspiration resistant finishes which are useful for dress fabrics and especially linings.
PERSPIRATION-RESISTANT fabrics A term applied to fabrics or dyes which are relatively unaffected by acid and alkaline perspiration. A term applied to fabrics or dyes which are relatively unaffected by acid and alkaline perspiration.
PETERSHAM RIBBON accessories MILLINERY. Ribbon in plain weave originally used on ladies' hats which usually has a continuous filament warp 1. MILLINERY. Ribbon in plain weave originally used on ladies' hats which usually has a continuous filament warp, typically with 10-12 picks per cm of cotton or spun viscose giving it a pronounced rib. The edge is formed by the turn of the weft.
2. SKIRT. A narrow fabric having a pronounced rib, usually with 9-12 picks per cm and having lateral stiffness produced either by the high density of the weave or by a finishing process. In older times, some were woven with pockets for whale born or plastic strips to give added lateral stiffness. In the contrast to Petersham ribbon, millinery, above, it has an edge of contrasting weave.
PETIT POINT STITCH general A small, slanting stitch worked over the separated double threads of the canvas A small, slanting stitch worked over the separated double threads of the canvas to form even lines of solid background. Used on cushions, chair covers and handbags.
PH (pH) general A measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution A measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution, with neutrality represented by a value of 7, with increasing acidity represented by increasingly smaller values, and with increasing alkalinity represented by increasingly larger values.
The negative logarithm of the effective hydrogen ion concentration or hydrogen ion activity in gram equivalents per litre used in expressing both acidity and alkalinity on a scale whose values run from 0-14, with 7 representing neutrality, numbers less than 7 increasing acidity, and numbers greater than 7 increasing alkalinity.
PHILIPPINE EMBROIDERY processes, operations Hand needlework, characterised by dainty floral designs. Hand needlework, characterised by dainty floral designs. Primarily used on less expensive lingerie.
PHOOL KARY fabrics A striped cotton muslin embroidered with small buds, branches and other designs. A striped cotton muslin embroidered with small buds, branches and other designs. From around Lashkar, India.
PHORMIUM fibers, filaments, yarns The fibre from wildly grown flax plant 'phoriun tenax' in New Zealand. The fibre from wildly grown flax plant 'phoriun tenax' in New Zealand. Fairly strong and flexible, and has good resistance to sea water. Used mainly for ropes, twines and coarse bagging materials. Same as New Zealand flax
PHOTOCHROMISM apparatus, equipage, tools In some dyeings the colour of a dyeing changes on exposure to light, but reverts to its original state after the sample is kept in the dark. In some dyeings the colour of a dyeing changes on exposure to light, but reverts to its original state after the sample is kept in the dark.
A qualitative designation for a reversible change in colour of any kind (whether a change in hue or chroma) which is immediately noticeable upon termination of light exposures when the exposed area of a specimen is compared to the unexposed area. The reversion of the colour change or instability of the hue or chroma upon standing in the dark distinguishes phototropism from fading.
Photochromism is a reaction influenced by the wavelength of the light energy from the sun. These wavelengths can be long and invisible (infra red), the medium and visible and short and invisible (UV radiation).
In technical terms, photochromism is the inter-conversion of two molecular states (A & B) brought about by the absorption of light. A absorbs light at a certain wavelength and converts to B. In the absence of the activating wavelength, B spontaneously reconverts to A. It is a molecular see-saw that is at the heart of photochromism.
PHOTODEGRADATION processes, operations Degradation caused by the absorption of light or other radiation and by consequent chemical reactions. Degradation caused by the absorption of light or other radiation and by consequent chemical reactions. Ultra-violet radiation is an especially potent cause
PHOTOGRAPHIC ENGRAVING processes, operations See Process engraving See Process engraving
PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTING processes, operations Application of a photographic image to cloth Application of a photographic image to cloth, by transfer from photo-engraved copper rolls or rollers.
PHOTOGRAVURE processes, operations The process by which AN 'engraving' is produced in a metal plate or cylinder by means of light acting on a sensitised surface and the resultant image then being etched in acid. The process by which AN 'engraving' is produced in a metal plate or cylinder by means of light acting on a sensitised surface and the resultant image then being etched in acid. Conventional gravure cylinders all have cells or 'dots' of the same width but varying depth so that they hold either more or less ink, thus producing varying tones of one colour. One of the main methods of printing transfer paper for transfer printing
PHOTOMECHANICAL TECHNIQUES processes, operations In printing, photographic techniques In printing, photographic techniques in which a screen serves to break up the gradations of a continuous-tone subject into a series of minute dots of varying size or a series of fine lines.
PHOTOMETER apparatus, equipage, tools An instrument that measures the light reflectancy of surfaces. An instrument that measures the light reflectancy of surfaces. Find use in the testing of whiteness, soil removal, colour fading, etc.
PHOTOMICROGRAPH general A photograph of a magnified object obtained by attaching a camera to a microscope. A photograph of a magnified object obtained by attaching a camera to a microscope.
PHTHALOGEN ³ See under Ingrain dye. See under Ingrain dye.
PHYSICAL TEXTILE TESTING general Laboratory tests made on fibres, yarns and fabrics by mechanical devices. Laboratory tests made on fibres, yarns and fabrics by mechanical devices.
PHYSIOLOGICAL COMFORTS OF GARMENTS garments, made-ups, assemblies One of the main purposes of clothing is to protect the body from heat loss. One of the main purposes of clothing is to protect the body from heat loss. It has been found that 'still air' is the best possible insulator, which plays a very important part in retaining body warmth. There is trapped air between the yarns and fibres of a fabric, also within the kinks and curls of textural filaments, and in any brushed or pile surface, all of which increases a fabric's warmth virtually by the way the air is used. There is very large volume of air in most fabrics as, for instance, in a blanket more than 90% of the bulk is occupied by air. In order to provide insulation the entrapped air must be immobilised, and therefore under windy conditions the outer layer of the clothing assembly should be almost impermeable to air.
Although fabrics can be constructed to have very low permeability, no woven or knitted fabric can ever be completely impermeable. This can only be achieved by laminating the fabric to a plastic film or coating. But, very closely woven cotton fabrics, or polyester and cotton blended, using fine yarns set very closely together so that air and wind have difficulty in passing between them, from a reasonably good insulating outer layer, particularly if finished with a showerproof treatment.
The value of air gaps between clothing layers, has been tested on a person wearing a vest, shirt and jacket show that has been found out to be tests, and the results show that out of the total thermal resistance for the whole assembly, 66% is due to the garments and 34% to the air gaps between them; such air gaps between garment layers can contribute significantly to the warmth of a clothing system. Yet because fibres in a textile fabric occupy only a small fraction of the total volume, the difference in thermal conductivity between one fibre and another is unimportant in clothing for average climates.
These with low conductivity, often used for internal layers of cold weather clothing, are polypropylene, polyester and polyvinylchloride. Wool, acrylic, and cellulose acetate are higher, then viscose and polyethylene. Cotton has the highest thermal conductivity; i.e. produces the lowest heat retention. The thermal insulation of air is about one thirtieth of most fibres and about one sixth of most fabrics.
Textiles can protect the body from excessive radiant heat such as the sun's rays, or the heat of a furnace. In this case a dense fabric construction is necessary in order to gain maximum protection. Colour can also divert radiant heat from the body by means of reflection. White provides good heat reflection whereas black is the least effective. Thick fabrics coated with aluminium foil give a high protection against radiant heat, although aluminium paint is less efficient. In addition to protecting the body against excessive heat from the outside, it is necessary in cold climates to protect it from radiant heat loss from the body into the clothing assembly or the outside atmosphere.
Under normal conditions of atmospheric temperature and humidity (the amount of moisture in the air) and of body activity, the entire human body is continuously producing perspiration in order to regulate the body's temperature, which evaporates within the skin layers and is emitted in the form of water vapour, which is invisible. Physiologists refer to it as 'sensible' perspiration which is liquid sweat normally only appearing when the temperature and humidity of the air is abnormally high or the individual indulges in strenuous exercise. A third form of perspiration is the apocrine sweating from certain glands which can contribute to offensive body odours; this can be either acid or alkaline. But as long as the normal perspiration remains insensible - that is, in vapour form - a person will feel reasonably comfortable. Yet if water vapour cannot escape quickly enough through the clothing, the percentage of relative humidity at skin level will increase, making the wearer feel clammy and if the conditions and type of clothing are such that the relative humidity within the clothing is increased to 100%, liquid moisture is formed on the skin and sometimes on the garment, by condensation of the water vapour, and the discomfort is increased. To be comfortable the skin must be kept in a dry condition and the body temperature should be constant, not too high or too low - between 35°C and 40°C, preferably at 37°C.
The need for fabrics to allow transmission of water vapour is generally understood but it is often confused with air permeability. Air and water vapour pass through a fabric in different ways. All textile fibres irrespective of their chemical composition are impermeable to air and therefore the passage of air through a fabric can only take place through spaces between the fibres, called the interstices.
The water vapour on the other hand, passes through fabric in several ways, sometimes through the interstices and sometimes right through the fibre itself, evaporating in the process, which can cause cooling of the skin. Every fibre has a different ability to absorb and evaporate moisture. For example, PVC fibres, polypropylene and polyethylene fibres have none; polyester and nylon have very little; wool has reasonably good ability, whilst linen, viscose and cotton are very good for this purposes. Water vapour can pass through all absorbent fibres, but some have better facilities for moisture evaporation than others. It is possible to have a fabric with very low air permeability but with high moisture vapour permeability, dependent on the fibre used.
For tropical clothing the fabrics should be made of open weave to allow air permeability and to absorbent with high evaporation ability. Also the air between the body and the layers of clothing should be kept circulating. Open necks and sleeves, shirts at the hips, not belted or tucked in enables the air currents to pass through the garment. Conversely, to provide extra warmth in the same garment, the collar can be buttoned closely at the neck, the sleeve cuffs fastened round wrist and the waist belted tightly, which stops the air currents and creates a still air insulation round the body, providing as much extra warmth as putting on a additional lightweight garment.
Softness is a quality generally associated with comfort.
PHYSIOLOGICAL DISCOMFORTS OF GARMENTS garments, made-ups, assemblies Sensorial discomfort, Thermophysiological discomfort, Garment Fitting discomfort The qualities that are generally associated with physiological discomforts of garments are:
Sensorial discomfort: What the garment feels like when worn next to skin; allergy, tickle, prickle, initial cold feel of fabric, abrasion of skin, loose fibres are shed, wet fabric clings to the skin, etc.
Thermophysiological discomfort: Whether the garment feel too warm, or too cold, and it transport sweat away from skin, etc.
Garment Fitting discomfort: Whether the garment is tight fit overall, or tight fit at local areas, etc.
PICK fabrics, processes, operations An individual length of weft yarn (filling yarn) or group of threads Sometimes called Shot.
1. An individual length of weft yarn (filling yarn) or group of threads, or
2. The process of inserting the filling yarn. See Pick spacing.
PICK AND PICK fabrics A fabric with alternating weft threads, one pick of one kind or colour and one pick of another. A fabric with alternating weft threads, one pick of one kind or colour and one pick of another. See also Pick at will.
PICK AT WILL apparatus, equipage, tools A loom on which it is possible to pick more than once from one side or single picks from different sides. A