| O.D. |
fabrics |
See Olive drab. |
See Olive drab. |
| OAKLEAF BRAID |
fabrics |
A jacquard woven
narrow fabric having a conventional oakleaf and acron
design contained within the border |
A jacquard woven
narrow fabric having a conventional oakleaf and acron
design contained within the border, customarily used as
a uniform cap-band. |
| OATMEAL |
fabrics |
An old fashioned
term which used to describe any fabric, usually wool |
An old fashioned
term which used to describe any fabric, usually wool,
that has a coloured, pebbled effect resembling oatmeal. |
| OATMEAL CRÊPE |
fabrics |
A weave that creates
a rough irregular surface effect by a random arrangement
of binding points. |
A weave that creates
a rough irregular surface effect by a random arrangement
of binding points. It can be produced on a plain base
or a satin base, or by reversing small motifs, or superimposing
weaves. The effect is intended to simulate the surface
appearance of a crêpe produced in plain weave using
highly twisted 'S' and 'Z' twist yarns. |
| OATS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
An early maturing
variety of American cotton with staple approximately 1.91
to 2.54 cm long. |
An early maturing
variety of American cotton with staple approximately 1.91
to 2.54 cm long. |
| OBA |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Optical brightening
agent. |
See Optical brightening
agent. |
| OBJECTS |
fabrics |
Lace having ornamental
devices (such as flowers) appearing regularly in various
parts of a piece of lace. |
Lace having ornamental
devices (such as flowers) appearing regularly in various
parts of a piece of lace. |
| OCELOT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A very hardwearing,
fairly coarse textured thin fur. |
A very hardwearing,
fairly coarse textured thin fur. Like Leopard, it has
spots, but they are more oval in shape. |
| OE YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
An abbreviation
for open-end spun yarn. |
An abbreviation
for open-end spun yarn. This term is mainly restricted
to rotor-spun yarns. See Rotor spinning. |
| OFF-CLIP |
defects |
See Scalloped selvage |
See Scalloped selvage |
| OFF-GRAIN |
defects |
A general term
used to describe fabrics in which the warp and weft, although
straight, are not at right angles to each other. |
A general term
used to describe fabrics in which the warp and weft, although
straight, are not at right angles to each other. This
term is applied to skewed or drawn pieces when lack of
information as to the cause, prevents the use of the more
precise term |
| OFF-PRESSING |
processes, operations |
The final pressing
operations on a garment after assembly. |
The final pressing
operations on a garment after assembly. Also called Pressing
off. |
| OFF-REGISTER |
defects |
Also called Out-of-fit,
Out-of register. Printing defect. |
Also called Out-of-fit,
Out-of register. Printing defect. A jumbled motif or mottled
colour effect which comes from improper alignment of the
printing machine rollers. The effect will show blank areas
which should have been printed, but because of poor settings
leave the areas white or some-what discoloured. |
| OFF-SHADE |
defects |
An expression referring
to the fact that the colour of the dyed textile material
does not match the standard colour or referred sample. |
An expression referring
to the fact that the colour of the dyed textile material
does not match the standard colour or referred sample. |
| OFF-SQUARE |
fabrics |
A fabric with a
nominal square count (same number of picks as ends per
inch) but not actually square. |
1. A fabric with
a nominal square count (same number of picks as ends per
inch) but not actually square.
2. The difference between the percentage of warp crimp
and the percentage of the weft crimp. |
| OFFSET TWILL WEAVE |
fabrics |
Same as Braided
twill weave. |
Same as Braided
twill weave. |
| OI |
general |
See Oxygen index. |
See Oxygen index. |
| OIL REPELLENCY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
The characteristic
of a fibre, yarn or fabric whereby it resists wetting
by oily liquids. |
The characteristic
of a fibre, yarn or fabric whereby it resists wetting
by oily liquids. |
| OIL SPOT |
defects |
See Blotch. |
See Blotch. |
| OIL STAINS |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
Stains, spots, and marks that are detrimental to cloth.
They are acquired in several ways. Many oil spots are
the result of poor material handling. |
| OIL-COMBING |
processes, operations |
The adding of a
small quantity of oil emulsion in the process of combing
worsted tops. |
The adding of a
small quantity of oil emulsion in the process of combing
worsted tops. |
| OILCLOTH |
fabrics |
One of the early
waterproof fabrics. |
One of the early
waterproof fabrics. Usually cotton, treated with linseed
oil varnish to give it a shiny effect. Mainly used as
table and shelf covering, and for bags and raincoats.
The surface wear off easily and it is inclined to tear.
Has been almost completely superseded by the modern laminates
and other coated fabrics |
| OILED SILK |
fabrics |
A very old waterproof
fabric which was used for rainwear and as waterproof covers
for dressing wounds. |
A very old waterproof
fabric which was used for rainwear and as waterproof covers
for dressing wounds. Produced in a manner similar to that
used for Oil cloth. |
| OILED VISCOSE |
fabrics |
Viscose fabrics
made impervious to water. |
Viscose fabrics
made impervious to water. |
| OILED WOOL |
fabrics |
Unscoured or undyed
knitting wool or wool dyed before spinning and containing
added oil not subsequently removed. |
Unscoured or undyed
knitting wool or wool dyed before spinning and containing
added oil not subsequently removed. |
| OILSKIN |
fabrics |
Fabric of practically
any natural or synthetic fibre that has been treated with
linseed oil varnish. |
Fabric of practically
any natural or synthetic fibre that has been treated with
linseed oil varnish. Used for protective clothing. See
also OiIcloth and Oiled silk. |
| OLEFIN FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Polyolefin. |
See Polyolefin. |
| OLEOPHILIC |
general |
Tendency to absorb
and retain only oily materials. |
Tendency to absorb
and retain only oily materials. |
| OLEOPHOBIC |
general |
Tendency to repel
only oily materials. |
Tendency to repel
only oily materials. |
| OLIGOMER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A simple polymer
containing a small number of repeating units. |
A simple polymer
containing a small number of repeating units. The oligomer
most frequently encountered in the textile industry is
the cyclic trimer of the polymer used for polyester fibre.
This material can form deposits during the processing
and dyeing of yarns and fabrics. |
| OLIVE DRAB |
fabrics |
Woollen cloth dyed
in a greenish yellow colour with low saturation and brilliance. |
Woollen cloth dyed
in a greenish yellow colour with low saturation and brilliance.
Used mainly for U.S. Army uniforms. |
| OMBRÉ |
fabrics |
Name derived from
the French word for 'shaded'. |
Name derived from
the French word for 'shaded'. Fabric which has a shaded
or graduated colour effect, which may be obtained either
by weaving or dyeing. Usually it ranges from light to
dark shades of one colour, giving a triped effect or sometimes
an attractive all-over shading. |
| OMBRÉ PRINT |
fabrics |
Prints produced
by a method called rainbowing. |
Prints produced
by a method called rainbowing. It is a variant of block
printing in which sieve used to supply the colour paste
is prepared by placing pools of colour across it. These
pools are then spread lengthwise with a roller to produce
a rainbow effect. Blocks are then used to apply this colour
to fabric. Also called 'Irised prints'. |
| ON THE DOUBLE |
processes, operations |
See Double, on
the |
See Double, on
the |
| ON-CALL COTTON |
general |
Raw-cotton purchased
under a procedure whereby the price relative to the 'futures'
price is agreed between buyer and seller, but the actual
futures price is left to be fixed within a stipulated
period |
Raw-cotton purchased
under a procedure whereby the price relative to the 'futures'
price is agreed between buyer and seller, but the actual
futures price is left to be fixed within a stipulated
period. The buyer has the right to 'call', i.e. demand
fixation of the futures price, at any time within the
stipulated time. |
| ONDÉ |
fabrics |
A French word meaning
waved, used in relation to textile fabrics to describe
a wave effect produced by calendering or weaving |
A French word meaning
waved, used in relation to textile fabrics to describe
a wave effect produced by calendering or weaving. See
Ondulé |
| ONDINE |
fabrics |
A thick, cord Bengaline
in which every cord is crinkled. |
A thick, cord Bengaline
in which every cord is crinkled. |
| ONDULÉ |
fabrics |
Similar in appearance
to 'Ombré' and also of French derivation, but the
cloth is woven in wavy stripes |
Similar in appearance
to 'Ombré' and also of French derivation, but the
cloth is woven in wavy stripes, achieved by groups of
warp threads being forced from side to side. Used for
curtains, furnishing fabrics of all fibres |
| ONE-BY-ONE PURL
FABRIC |
fabrics |
See under Purl
fabric. |
See under Purl
fabric. |
| ONE-FACE FABRIC |
fabrics |
A cloth of which
only one side is suitable for the face or right side. |
A cloth of which
only one side is suitable for the face or right side.
Knots, long floats and extra yarn stitching on the back
make it unsuitable for use as the face of the cloth |
| ONE-SIDED TERRY |
fabrics |
A terry cloth woven
with loop pile on one side only. |
A terry cloth woven
with loop pile on one side only. |
| ONE-WAY FABRIC |
fabrics |
Fabrics wherein
a fibrous surface, be it nap or pile, is directional,
there is a distinct difference in colour effect according
to the direction in which light impinges on the surface
fibres. |
Fabrics wherein
a fibrous surface, be it nap or pile, is directional,
there is a distinct difference in colour effect according
to the direction in which light impinges on the surface
fibres. It is usually impossible in practice to produce
a large quantity of directional nap or pile fabric with
all the fibres at exactly the same angle of inclination.
The finishing processes of pile fabrics, cropping and
brushing impart a direction to the pile which cannot be
kept uniform over a large area.
In clothing the areas of fabric are not large enough to
produce patchy areas but the movement of a garment causes
colour changes to be constantly visible. It is important
therefore that the directions of fibres in all garment
parts are the same. Dressmakers usually prefer the pile
of a fabric to run up-wards as this gives a richer colour
effect, but obviously directional nap fabrics are made
with the nap running downwards. The colour changes due
to differing light reflection referred to above make colour
matching of pile fabrics with each other and with conventional
fabrics very difficult and at times it appears that a
perfect match is impossible and that a compromise is all
that can be achieved. However, great care is taken in
matching nap or pile fabrics with plain textured materials,
and with each other. |
| ONION CLOTH |
fabrics |
A strong bagging
material with a large mesh, actually a netting, often
a leno. |
A strong bagging
material with a large mesh, actually a netting, often
a leno. Used mainly for bags to hold onions and the same
time display them for easy, fast selling. |
| ONIUM DYE |
³ |
Small range of
dyes, mostly used on cotton. |
Small range of
dyes, mostly used on cotton. A cationic dye that is solubilized
by available ammonium, sulphonium, phosphonium or oxonium
substituent which splits off during fixation to leave
an insoluble colorant in the fibre. This temporarily solubilized
dye (water-soluble), being cationic, must not be mixed
with anionic dyes, otherwise they will precipitate each
other. In the presence of heat and alkali the solubilizing
groups split up to give a very fast dye on the fibre.
Onium dyes are:
· suitable for cotton and linen fibres.
See also Alcian and Phthalogen under Ingrain dye. |
| OOZE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Loose fibres, which
project from the surface of yarn. |
Loose fibres, which
project from the surface of yarn. |
| OP ART |
fabrics |
See Optical art. |
See Optical art. |
| OPEN BOIL |
processes, operations |
Scouring of cellulosic
textiles with alkaline liquors in open vessels at or near
the boiling points. |
Scouring of cellulosic
textiles with alkaline liquors in open vessels at or near
the boiling points. |
| OPEN DENT |
defects |
Fabric defect |
Fabric defect,
characterised by an open streak of variable length parallel
with the warp. |
| OPEN LAP |
processes, operations |
In warp knitting,
a lapping movement in which the underlap is non-existent
or is made in the same direction as the preceding overlap. |
In warp knitting,
a lapping movement in which the underlap is non-existent
or is made in the same direction as the preceding overlap.
This results in a thread entering and leaving a loop at
opposite sides without crossing over itself |
| OPEN LOOP |
fabrics |
In warp knitting
a loop open at the base, i.e. a lapping movement in which
the underlap is non-existent or is made in the same direction
as the preceding overlap. |
In warp knitting
a loop open at the base, i.e. a lapping movement in which
the underlap is non-existent or is made in the same direction
as the preceding overlap. This results in a thread entering
and leaving a loop at opposite sides without crossing
over itself. |
| OPEN PLACE |
defects |
See Crack mark. |
See Crack mark. |
| OPEN REED |
defects |
Fabric defect.
Resulting from a bent reed wire causing the warp ends
to be held apart exposing the weft yarn |
Fabric defect.
Resulting from a bent reed wire causing the warp ends
to be held apart exposing the weft yarn. Will be conspicuous
on fabrics that use different colour yarns on warp and
shuttle. |
| OPEN SHEDDING |
fabrics |
A method of forming
a shed I |
A method of forming
a shed in which, between the insertion of one weft pick
and the next, the only warp threads moved are those that
are required to change position from the upper to the
lower line of the shed, or vice versa |
| OPEN SOAPER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A machine consisting
of a number of compartments, each having rollers and/or
nips, which is used for continuous wet treatment of textiles
in open width. |
A machine consisting
of a number of compartments, each having rollers and/or
nips, which is used for continuous wet treatment of textiles
in open width. By suitable arrangement of liquids in the
series of compartments, a sequence of operations, e.g.
fixing, rinsing, soaping and rinsing, can be carried out. |
| OPEN WIDTH WASHER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A machine for washing
fabrics in open width continuously or in batch form. |
A machine for washing
fabrics in open width continuously or in batch form. |
| OPEN-END SPINNING |
processes, operations |
Also called Break
spinning. The formation of yarn by separating the single
fibres, which are then rotated and joined to the 'open-end'
of the twisted yarn, which also rotates. Since there is
a 'break' in the system any twist inserted is true twist. |
Also called Break
spinning. The formation of yarn by separating the single
fibres, which are then rotated and joined to the 'open-end'
of the twisted yarn, which also rotates. Since there is
a 'break' in the system any twist inserted is true twist.
The ring spinning method spins most of the staple fibre
yarns produced today. However, this has limited speeds
of production and has a limited adaptability to automation.
It is for this reason that the producers have looked for
completely new methods of spinning. For some years now
there has been growing interest in 'open-end' spinning,
where, since the twist is not inserted in the yarn by
the rotation of the yarn package, the operation can run
at higher speeds and produce packages of any desired size
and shape.
When spinning on this system an open end is created in
the flow of fibres. Since the yarn being pro-duced has
one end free any twist inserted is true rather than false.
The essential operation depends on the formation of yarn
by separating the single fibres, that are then rotated
and joined to the 'open end' of the twisted yarn, which
also rotates. This system eliminates the slowest process
in cotton spinning and production is much more; even five
or more times rapid than in orthodox ring spin-ning.
Open-end spinning machines make yarns which compare well
with conventionally spun combed cotton yarns. These yarns
have some improved properties and therefore less time
is lost in rewind-ing, correcting faults and knotting
broken ends together. The packages produced are much bigger
and since sliver can be converted directly to a large
package of yarn, many intermediate stages, such as roving,
are cut out, and the labour costs involved in the complete
operation are greatly reduced.
There are several different methods of open-end spinning
available. The way in which the fibres are assembled onto
the forming yarn varies and so does the means by which
the twist is inserted. How-ever, here the basic principles
of a few methods are only covered, although it must be
appreciated that other promising ways are being developed,
all based on the concept of having a break in the system.
In the rotor method the roving stage is omitted and draw-frame
sliver is presented to a small rotating tooth-covered
roller. This reduces the sliver to a stream of almost
individual fibres, which are injected into a small chamber
rotating at high speed. The fibres are fed into the chamber
and guided to its periphery. A ribbon of fibres is formed
at the periphery and held by centrifugal force. The fibres
are picked off the chamber surface by a length of yarn,
scanning the periphery and as this ribbon is extracted,
and as it twists around itself at the same time, twist
is inserted by the rota-tion of the drum the end is continually
wound off, so forming a continuous yarn.
In other methods, perforated drums or electrostatic forces
are used in place of the rotor to assemble the fibres.
In the air-vortex method the fibres are sucked into a
stationary tube and travel in a helical path. They then
join the yarn end, which rotates in the tube and inserts
the twist. The point of con-tact between the fibre path
and the yarn path is continuously moving up and down the
tube and gives a mixing or doubling effect. The yarn is
continuously pulled out of the tube. |
| OPEN-FACE FABRIC |
fabrics |
A face or shell
fabric constructed with specifically designed open areas |
A face or shell
fabric constructed with specifically designed open areas
to show the substrate when joined to another material |
| OPEN-WIDTH PROCESSING |
processes, operations |
The treatment of
fabric at its full width in the unfolded state in contrast
to rope-form processing. |
The treatment of
fabric at its full width in the unfolded state in contrast
to rope-form processing. The fabric may be carried on
rollers through the processing media or be held on a roller,
as in beam dyeing. |
| OPENING |
processes, operations |
The process of
separating fibres from each other in the preparatory stages
of spinning. |
The process of
separating fibres from each other in the preparatory stages
of spinning. |
| OPENNESS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The provision for
leg stance in the angle of the leg seams. |
The provision for
leg stance in the angle of the leg seams. |
| OPTICAL ART |
fabrics |
Also called Op
art. |
Also called Op
art. Fabrics on which simple designs are drawn: squares,
circles, spirals, cubes, moiré patterns that offer
multiple interpretations and a sense of movement. Layers
of translucent fabric can ap-proximate this phenomenon. |
| OPTICAL BRIGHTENING
AGENT |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Fluorescent
whitening agent. |
See Fluorescent
whitening agent. |
| OPTICAL DYE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Fluorescent
dye |
See Fluorescent
dye |
| OPTIMUM TWIST |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Spun yarns that
have the amount of twist that gives the maximum tensile
strength |
Spun yarns that
have the amount of twist that gives the maximum tensile
strength or the maximum bulk at strength levels suitable
for weaving or knitting. |
| ORDINARY HONEYCOMB |
fabrics |
See under Honeycomb. |
See under Honeycomb. |
| ORDINARY LAY |
accessories |
A laid rope (see
Lay - 2) in which the direction of twist in the roping
yarn and the finished rope are the same |
A laid rope (see
Lay - 2) in which the direction of twist in the roping
yarn and the finished rope are the same and in which the
direction of lay of the strand is in the opposite direction. |
| ORDINARY TWILL |
fabrics |
See Common twill |
See Common twill |
| ORDINARY TWIST |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Same as 'Z' twist. |
Same as 'Z' twist.
See also Direction of twist |
| ORGANDIE |
fabrics |
The sheerest cotton
fabric made of fine 100 % cotton yarn. |
The sheerest cotton
fabric made of fine 100 % cotton yarn. Open translucent
fabric with a stiff han-dle, woven in plain weave and
given a special acid finishing treatment which creates
the crisp translucent effect by partially 'gelatinising'
the surface of the fabric. The finish is permanent. Fabric
creases very easily and is mainly used for decoration
and as an interfacing fabric in lightweight garments.
It is also used for dresses, blouses and sometimes for
hats. Very springy and inclined to bubble and lose its
shape under pressure.
The organdie-effect can be obtained more effectively (but
not cheaply) by the use of monofilament synthetic yarns. |
| ORGANZA |
fabrics |
Similar in appearance
to Organdie. Lightweight, plain weave, sheer fabric made
originally from fine silk yarns but now also made in man-made
synthetic fibre yarns. |
Similar in appearance
to Organdie. Lightweight, plain weave, sheer fabric made
originally from fine silk yarns but now also made in man-made
synthetic fibre yarns. It has a crisp handle and drapes
well. Made in plain colours and in printed styles, for
dress use. Used for evening wear and trimming and may
also be used as interfacing in fine fabrics. |
| ORGANZINE YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Two or more raw
silk yarns twisted in the opposite direction from the
single yarn of which it is made. |
Two or more raw
silk yarns twisted in the opposite direction from the
single yarn of which it is made. Turns per inch in the
singles and ply usually within the limits of 10 to 20
turns; generally used as warp. |
| ORIENTAL CARPETS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A group of handmade
carpets produced in the Orient, especially in Asia, notably,
Persia (Iran), Asiatic Turkey, Bokhara, Afghanistan and
China. |
A group of handmade
carpets produced in the Orient, especially in Asia, notably,
Persia (Iran), Asiatic Turkey, Bokhara, Afghanistan and
China. They are woven similar to tapestry or in a pile
weave. The number of knots per square inch determines
their fineness. Generally made of wool, some of the finest
Persians have silk pile. |
| ORIENTATION |
processes, operations |
A combing or attenuating
action on fibre assemblies |
A combing or attenuating
action on fibre assemblies causing the fibres to lie substantially
parallel to the axis of the web or strand. |
| ORIFICE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A tiny, single
hole in a spinneret. |
A tiny, single
hole in a spinneret. It is through these fine holes that
the spinning solution is formed. |
| ORIGINAL TWIST |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The twist in a
single or plied yarn component of a plied or cabled yarn |
The twist in a
single or plied yarn component of a plied or cabled yarn
as the component was before incorporation into the more
complex structure. |
| ORLON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Trade name for
one of the first acrylic fibres. |
Trade name for
one of the first acrylic fibres. Melts at high heat, but
does not catch light. Noted for soft hand, absorbency,
and warmth without weight, chemical and sunlight resistance.
It blends very well with wool and other fibres, and is
used extensively in knitwear and dress fabrics. |
| ORTHOPAEDIC AND
SURGICAL FELT |
fabrics |
A white soft low
density, highly resilient felt. |
A white soft low
density, highly resilient felt. |
| OSNABURG |
fabrics |
A traditional coarse
cotton fabric, woven with uneven yarns and often incorporating
cotton waste. |
A traditional coarse
cotton fabric, woven with uneven yarns and often incorporating
cotton waste. Is plain weave, resembles crash in appearance
and is the basic fabric from which Cretonne may be made. |
| OSSEIN FILAMENTS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
An experimental
synthetic fibre obtained from ossein, the chief organic
basis of bone tissue which remains as residue after removal
of the material that matters. |
An experimental
synthetic fibre obtained from ossein, the chief organic
basis of bone tissue which remains as residue after removal
of the material that matters. The ossein is related to
gelatine. A major weakness of the fibre was its brittleness |
| OTTOMAN |
fabrics |
Heavy fabric with
broad, flat crosswise ribs of even size, but some have
small ribs. |
Heavy fabric with
broad, flat crosswise ribs of even size, but some have
small ribs. Ottoman cords have alternating wide and narrow
ribs. Basic yarn used may be silk or wool, but is now
more likely to be acetate, viscose, triacetate or cotton.
Weft cords are usually cotton yarn covered by the warp
yarns. Soft unyielding fabric. Used for plain dresses,
coats and curtains. Creases easily across the width of
the fabric |
| OUT-OF-FIT |
defects |
See Off-register |
See Off-register |
| OUT-OF-REGISTER |
defects |
See Off-register. |
See Off-register. |
| OUTING FLANNEL |
fabrics |
a soft, lightweight,
plain or twill weave fabric usually napped on both sides. |
a soft, lightweight,
plain or twill weave fabric usually napped on both sides.
Plain or striped. Used often for blazers, cricket trousers,
and sleeping garments, etc. |
| OUTLINE EMBROIDERY |
processes, operations |
Needlework in which
the design is outlined in colour but not filled in. |
Needlework in which
the design is outlined in colour but not filled in. |
| OUTSIDE SEAM |
general |
A seam formed in
which the completed seam allowance is located on the exterior
of the object, usually on the face side of the fabric. |
A seam formed in
which the completed seam allowance is located on the exterior
of the object, usually on the face side of the fabric.
An example of an outside seam is the 'flat-felled seam'.
(Com-pare in Inside seam.) |
| OUTSIDE-LEG LENGTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| OVEDRPLAID |
fabrics |
A plaid pattern
with one plaid woven over another of the same or different
size. |
A plaid pattern
with one plaid woven over another of the same or different
size. Also, a plaid design on checked ground |
| OVEN |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A heat chamber
in which textile fabrics or garments are cured or baked. |
A heat chamber
in which textile fabrics or garments are cured or baked.
There are two types of curing ovens (a) batch curing oven
and (b) continuous conveyor oven |
| OVEN-DRY WEIGHT |
general |
The weight of a
textile material determined after drying |
The weight of a
textile material determined after drying by definite prescribed
methods, which in-clude oven drying |
| OVER WAXING |
processes, operations |
The operation of
waxing a yarn after sizing. |
The operation of
waxing a yarn after sizing. |
| OVER-END WITHDRAWAL |
processes, operations |
The unwinding of
yarn from a package |
The unwinding of
yarn from a package generally along the axis of the package. |
| OVER-RAISED |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
Excessive surface nap that may or may not be accompanied
by damage to the ground structure. It is usually caused
by the incorrect setting of the raising machine or irregular
feed of the fabric. |
| OVERALL |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Workwear usually
designed to be worn over every day clothes |
Workwear usually
designed to be worn over every day clothes to give protection
to the body and part of the legs of the wearer. |
| OVERALL CLEANING |
processes, operations |
In upholstered
furniture, the application of an appropriate cleaning
agent to the entire fabric covering |
In upholstered
furniture, the application of an appropriate cleaning
agent to the entire fabric covering, accomplished while
the upholstery fabric remains attached to the furniture
unit. |
| OVERCAST STITCH |
general |
A slating stitch
used around cut edges or open parts to prevent ravelling |
A slating stitch
used around cut edges or open parts to prevent ravelling |
| OVERCHAIN |
general |
See Overlock. |
See Overlock. |
| OVERCHECK |
fabrics |
A pattern in which
one check is superimposed upon another of different size
or colour. |
A pattern in which
one check is superimposed upon another of different size
or colour. |
| OVERCOATING |
fabrics |
Any fabric used
for overcoats. |
Any fabric used
for overcoats. Generally medium or heavy woollen or worsted
or union fabric. |
| OVERCUT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A synthetic staple
fibre having a longer than normal length; the length is
generally a multiple of 2,3 or more times the normal length. |
A synthetic staple
fibre having a longer than normal length; the length is
generally a multiple of 2,3 or more times the normal length.
An overcut occurs when the filaments are not cut to the
desired length during the process of manufacturing the
staple. |
| OVEREDGE |
general |
There are many
types of overedge stitches, with varying numbers of needle
threads, looper threads and covering threads. |
There are many
types of overedge stitches, with varying numbers of needle
threads, looper threads and covering threads. All are
basically forms of chain stitch, in which threads pass
round the edge of a fabric as well as through it. The
fabric edge is trimmed in the sewing machine and the stitch
is then formed over the freshly cut edge. |
| OVEREDGING |
processes, operations |
The use of an overedge
stitch either by hand or machine to bind an edge so as
to avoid fraying. |
The use of an overedge
stitch either by hand or machine to bind an edge so as
to avoid fraying. Can also be used as a decoration. Also
described as Overlocking |
| OVERFEED FABRIC |
fabrics |
A warp-knitted
fabric in which, generally, one warp is fed faster than
would be required to form normally shaped loops. |
A warp-knitted
fabric in which, generally, one warp is fed faster than
would be required to form normally shaped loops. The excess
yarn results in large loops and underlaps which appear
as surface pile. The fabric may subsequently be brushed
and raised of sueded |
| OVERHAND |
processes, operations |
A way of examining
textile materials by viewing horizontally at eye-level. |
A way of examining
textile materials by viewing horizontally at eye-level. |
| OVERLAP |
processes, operations |
In warp-knitting,
lateral movement of the guide bars on the beard or hook
side of the needles. |
In warp-knitting,
lateral movement of the guide bars on the beard or hook
side of the needles. This movement is normally restricted
to one needle space. |
| OVERLAPS |
defects |
Bands of yarn found
at the ends of a yarn cone or cheese caused by faulty
winding. |
Bands of yarn found
at the ends of a yarn cone or cheese caused by faulty
winding. They are associated with Winding pattern and
Ribboning |
| OVERLENGTH STAPLE
FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Man-made staple
fibres that are at least 10 % longer than the nominal
or average cut length. |
Man-made staple
fibres that are at least 10 % longer than the nominal
or average cut length. (Compare to Multiple length staple
fibres.) |
| OVERLOCK |
general |
Stitches used to
bind edges of fabric to prevent them fraying. |
Stitches used to
bind edges of fabric to prevent them fraying. In knitted
garments such stitches are also used to form seams between
two or more fabrics. Invariably overlock describes the
looped stitch construction formed from two or more threads,
although overedge stitches can be achieved with a single
chaining thread and with zigzagged lockstitch. Also called
Overchain. See also Overedge. |
| OVERLOCK SEAM |
general |
A seam in which
two or more edges of fabric are joined together, oversewn
and edge-trimmed in one operation |
A seam in which
two or more edges of fabric are joined together, oversewn
and edge-trimmed in one operation, with overedge stitches
having two or more threads. |
| OVERLOCKING |
processes, operations |
See Overedging. |
See Overedging. |
| OVERNIT |
fabrics |
See Double Piqué |
See Double Piqué |
| OVERPICK LOOM |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A loom on which
the picking stick is above the level of the shuttle box. |
A loom on which
the picking stick is above the level of the shuttle box. |
| OVERPRINT |
processes, operations |
A print applied
on top of a coloured, piece dyed fabric. |
A print applied
on top of a coloured, piece dyed fabric. Also called Ad-hock. |
| OVERSHOT |
fabrics |
See Float |
See Float |
| OVERSPRAYING |
processes, operations |
The spraying of
staple fibres with a lubricant during blending. |
The spraying of
staple fibres with a lubricant during blending. |
| OVERSPUN |
defects |
A defective yarn
that is very irregular because it has been drawn, to too
high a count for its quality |
A defective yarn
that is very irregular because it has been drawn, to too
high a count for its quality, with resulting over-twist
in the thin places and absence of twist in the thick places. |
| OVERWIDTH |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
Fabric that has not been finished to the proper width.
Extra washing and proper shrinking may bring cloth to
proper width, or re-stentering may have to be resorted
to. |
| OXFORD CHAMBRAY |
fabrics |
An Oxford woven
with coloured yarn-dyed warp and white filling |
An Oxford woven
with coloured yarn-dyed warp and white filling |
| OXFORD CLOTH |
fabrics |
A plain-weave shirting
of good quality yarns that has two warp ends weaving as
one. |
A plain-weave shirting
of good quality yarns that has two warp ends weaving as
one. Soft, somewhat porous cotton shirting fabric given
a silk-like lustre finish. Fancy weave effects can be
incorporated. Made in plain white or colours, and sometimes
also in coloured yarns stripes. Usually inexpensive fabric,
but more expensive if mercerised cotton is used. Mainly
used for shirts, light suits, dresses. |
| OXFORD GREY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A grey colour effect
produced by blending white and black fibres. |
A grey colour effect
produced by blending white and black fibres. The percentage
of black is usually 80-95 %, so that the cloth produced
is dark grey. |
| OXFORD SHIRTING |
fabrics |
A cotton or blended
fabric in a basket weave originally made in Oxford |
A cotton or blended
fabric in a basket weave originally made in Oxford, and
used for shirts, blouses, and sportswear. |
| OXIDATION |
processes, operations |
A process in which:
(a) a chemical element loses electrons; (b) oxygen is
added to any chemical formula. |
A process in which:
(a) a chemical element loses electrons; (b) oxygen is
added to any chemical formula. |
| OXIDATION DYES |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In principle, a
small molecular weight intermediate is treated under acid
oxidation conditions to form a much larger, coloured molecule. |
In principle, a
small molecular weight intermediate is treated under acid
oxidation conditions to form a much larger, coloured molecule.
These dyes are mostly used as hair and fur dyeing. Except
aniline black, the few other oxidation colours formerly
employed in textile printing, fell out of gen-eral use
on fastness grounds. Oxidation dyes are:
· suitable for cotton, linen, viscose rayon, and cuprammonium
rayon fibres. |
| OXIDISED OIL STAINING |
processes, operations |
Staining of textiles
caused by oil acquired or applied during processing. |
Staining of textiles
caused by oil acquired or applied during processing. The
presence of oxidised oil may cause discoloration and affect
the dyeing property of the material. In the manufacture
of woollen and worsted yarns, this discoloration is sometimes
referred as Gliding, Yellowing, or Bronz-ing. |
| OXYCELLULOSE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Cellulose changed
chemically by the action of oxidising agents. |
Cellulose changed
chemically by the action of oxidising agents. This produces
weak or tender cot-ton. |
| OXYGEN INDEX (OI) |
general |
Also called Limiting
oxygen index. |
Also called Limiting
oxygen index. The minimum concentration of oxygen in a
mixture of oxygen and nitrogen (expressed as a percentage)
that will just support flaming combustion of a material
under specified test conditions. |
| OZONE FADING |
processes, operations |
An irreversible
change in hue that when dyed or printed textiles are exposed
to ozone. |
An irreversible
change in hue that when dyed or printed textiles are exposed
to ozone. Ozone fading is particularly prevalent under
severe conditions of atmospheric pollution. Different
from gas fading. |
