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Textile Dictionary
 
     
 
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Word
Short description
Nacré prints A blurred effect produced by printing cloth while it is damp, so that colour seeps away from design. Similar to result achieved by printing warp yarns before weaving. The word 'nacré' means changeable, iridescent.
Nacré velvet A velvet fabric in which the backing is woven in a different colour from the pile, giving an interesting, and changeable appearance in wear.
Nacre velvet The back is of one colour and the pile of another, so that it gives a changeable, pearly appearance.
NADFD Acronym for ‘National Association of Decorative Fabric Distributors‘. A national non-profit organisation of firms devoted to the distribution of drapery and upholstery fabric and fabric wall coverings. The Association serves the fabric distribution industry, maintaining liaison with mills, furniture manufacturers, upholsterers and re-upholstery shops, drapery shops and lofts, designers and decorators and contract organisations.
Nadiri A kind of jacket, worn as an outer garment. The emperor jehangir described it in his memoirs as ‘a coat they wear over a qaba. Its length is from the waist down to below the thighs, and it has no sleeves. It is fastened in front with buttons.”
Nailhead Woven-in designs including dots, bird’s eye, hopsack and small hounds tooth; usually found in clear finished, sharkskin type worsteds.
Nail head design A jacquard knitting pattern in which the jacquard forms a design similar to small nail heads.
Nainsook A lightweight plain weave cotton fabric usually finished to create lustre and a soft hand. Common end-uses are infants’ wear, blouses, and lingerie.
Nainsook Lightweight, plain weave, cotton-like fabric, either crisp or soft. Slightly heavier than a lawn. Used for blouses, infantwear, etc.
Nainsook A fine and light plain-woven fabric, which has been bleached. Made in different qualities and used for dresses.
     Nainsook
A fine, light, plain-woven cotton fabric with a soft finish.
     Nainsook
A lightweight, plain weave cotton fabric. Used for lingerie, baby clothes.
Nainsook Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Produced in the finishing processes from the same grey goods as used for batiste, cambric, and lawn. Fine and lightweight. Soft and has a slight lustre in the better qualities (mercerisation). Slightly heavier than batiste. Like lawn but not as crisp. Soft, lacks body. Usually found in white but also comes in pastel colours and some printed.
Uses: tucked or embroidered, blouses, night wear, lingerie, and infant's wear.
Nainsook A fine, soft cotton fabric, with a plain weave. Better grades have a polished finish on one side. When well polished, it may be sold as polished cotton. In low priced white goods, cambric, long cloth and nainsook often are identical fabrics before converting. The finishing process gives its characteristic texture. Nainsook is heavier and coarser than lawn. Usually found in white, pastel colours and prints, and used chiefly for infant's wear, lingerie and blouses.
Nainsook A fine, light, plain-woven cotton fabric with a soft finish.
Nainsook A lightweight, plain weave cotton fabric. Used for lingerie, baby clothes.
Nainsook Soft, fine, light cotton fabric made from combed yarns, in plain weave, often mercerised, similar to Batiste in the piece. Once a popular dress fabric but now mainly used as ready-to-apply soft cotton bias binding.
Nainsooka (Nainsook) soft lightweight muslin.  Produced in the finishing processes from the same greige goods as used for batiste, cambric, and lawn.  Fine and lightweight.  Soft and has a slight lustre in the better qualities (mercerisation).  Slightly heavier than batiste.  Like lawn but not as crisp.  Soft, lacks body.  Usually found in white but also comes in pastel colours and some printed.
Nainsook finish A soft finish with slight lustre on both sides of the fabric. No sizing is used. English nainsook has a soft finish, while French nainsook has crisper, calendered finish.
Naked wool A new kind of lightweight 100% wool garment. Claimed to be always ‘naturally’ comfortable, warm when the weather is chilly, and cool when it is hot.
Name Glossary.
Nandel Acrylic fabrics with rotofil yarn made of short fibres bound together by a surface filament fibre. The filament/ staple wrapped yarn made by a special process. Fabrics made of this yarn are fuzz resistant, pill resistant, shrink resistant, wrinkle resistant, machine washable, dryable, needs little or no ironing and have good dimensional stability. Used for dress and sport shirts.
Nankeen See under Silk shantung
Nankeen A durable brownish yellow cotton fabric originally loomed by hand in China.   Trousers made of nankeen, namely a durable brownish yellow cotton cloth originally hand-loomed in China
Nanotechnology Research and technology development at the atomic, molecular or macromolecular levels (in the 1-100 nanometer range) aimed at creating and using materials, which have novel properties and functions.
Nap A fuzzy, fur-like feel created when fibre ends extend from the basic fabric structure to the fabric surface. The fabric can be napped on either one or both sides.
Nap (1) A fibrous surface, produced on a fabric or felt, in which part of the fibre is raised from the basic structure. Note: Originally nap and pile were used synonymously, but the present trend of using the two terms for different concepts is to be encouraged as providing a means of differentiation and avoidance of confusion.
(2) A local variation, used in the flax-processing industry, of nep.
(3) In raw cotton, matted clumps of fibres, which are entangled more loosely than those in neps.
Nap The fibrous surface on a fabric created by brushing or rubbing to lift fibres from the basic structure.
Nap A fuzzy or downy surface produced on a fabric or felt in which, part of the fibre is raised from the basic structure, either on one side or both. Nap may be raised in stripes or other patterns or may be sheared to obtain uniform length. Loosely twisted yarns are incorporated in fabric, which is to be napped to facilitate this process; generally used in the weft. The interlacings between the warp and weft threads are covered to a great extent by the nap, which also acts as an insulator. The length of the nap varies in the different fabrics which are given this type of finish, e.g. flannel, blanketing, overcoating. Certain knit goods also are napped, such as the various types of brushed knit fabrics of man-made fibres. The brushing is done generally with wire brushes or teasel burrs. Nap is not to be confused with pile, which is formed by extra yarn in a different operation.
Nap (1) a fibrous surface, produced on a fabric or felt, in which part of the fibre is raised from the basic structure. Note: Originally nap and pile were used synonymously, but the present trend of using the two terms for different concepts is to be encouraged as providing a means of differentiation and avoidance of confusion.
(2) a local variation, used in the flax-processing industry, of nep.
(3) in raw cotton, matted clumps of fibres which are entangled more loosely than those in neps.
Napery Household linen, especially table linen.
Napery A general term for tablecloths, napkins and other household linens, made of linen or cotton.
Naphthalating A process by which virgin wool is gently cleansed in three baths of naphtha and then rinsed in clean flowing water. No soap or alkaline solutions are used; raking, forking, and excessive handling are eliminated. The wool retains its original life, strength, and resiliency.     
Naphthol dyes See Azoic dyes
Napier
  • A double-faced overcoating with wool face and vicuna or goat’s hair back.
  • A floor covering of good quality made of hemp and jute.
    • Napkin  [Dialectical British] handkerchief; [Chiefly Scottish] kerchief.  A napkin is also utilised to clean the messy food from your face after eating a marvelous meal.  The employees of Apparel Search generally use our sleeves as napkins.
    Nappa leather This is the skin of sheep or goats that has been tanned by a Californian process using oil.
    Napped See Brushed/ Napped.
    Napped fabrics Fabrics finished with a nap on one side or both sides. The nap might cover the entire fabric or only parts of its surface.
    Napper A machine for finishing operation, on which napping is carried out.
    See Napping  
    Napping 1. An alternate name for raising.
    2. Cloth, which has been raised to obtain a dense full nap, is treated in a machine, which runs the raised fibres into small pills, balls or curls. The process is sometimes called ‘friezing’.
    Napping
    Synonym: Raising     		A finishing process in which part of the fibres from the basic structure of a textile material are raised to the surface by means of revolving cylinders covered with metal points or teazle burrs. Apart from teazling, other means like brushing, or rubbing also may be employed for producing such a layer of protruding fibres on the surface of fabrics. Napping finish is usually given to fabrics such as outing flannel, wool broadcloth, knit goods, blankets, etc.
    Napping The raising of the fibre on the face of the goods by means of teasels or rollers covered with card clothing (steel wires) that are about one inch in height. Action by either method raises the protruding fibres and causes the finished fabric to provide greater warmth to the wearer, makes the cloth more compact, causes the fabric to become softer in hand or smoother in feel; increase durability and covers the minute areas between the interlacings of the warp and the filling. Napped fabrics include blankets, flannel, unfinished worsted, and several types of coatings and some dress goods. Other names for napping are Gigging, Genapping, Teaseled, Raised.
    Napping cotton A generally short, crinkly cotton fibre with good napping properties. Used in the manufacture of blankets and other napped fabrics serving as excellent insulators because through its use there are numerous air cells or pockets.
    Nappy fabric Fabric defect. An excessive number of small tangles or knots of fibre appearing on the fabric surface. The defect is often caused by poor carding or combing of fibre or by contamination during preparation for spinning.
    Naqsha Pattern; scheme.
    Narrow carpet Fabric woven 27 inches (¾) and 36 inches (4/4) in width to distinguish from broadloom widths used in carpeting.
    Narrow cloth  In the woollen and worsted trade, fabrics less than 52 inches wide.
    See Narrow fabrics, Narrow goods
    Narrow duck Used for conveyer belting, small sails, etc., the term implies Number duck, which varies in width from 6 to 20 inches. Weight is similar to that of sail duck.
    Narrow fabric Any textile fabric made by interlacing fibres or yarns which (in the U.K.) does not exceed 45cm. and (in the U.S.A. and other countries) does not exceed 30cm. Narrow fabrics are characterised by the edges, which are their essential feature.
    The category of narrow fabrics includes tapes, ribbons, and webbings. Narrow fabrics can be produced from any textile fibre, including elastomers, by weaving, braiding, knitting or other methods. They can also be made by cutting or slitting wider fabrics into narrow strips.
    It is to be noted, that the term ‘narrow fabric’ is incorrectly applied in some sections of the trade to fabrics, which are narrower than the normal width for a specific fabric type.
    Narrow fabric Any fabric made by interlacing fibres or yarns, which (in the U.K.) does not exceed 45cm in width. In the U.S.A. and for the purpose of the Tariff code in the EC, the upper limit of width is 30cm. A characteristic of a narrow fabric is that its edges are an essential feature.  
    Narrow fabrics Fabrics of 24-36 inch width.
    Narrow fabrics 1. Ribbon, tape, and webbing will run from inch ½ to 3 inches in width, in the narrow sense. These fabrics are woven on wide looms where it is possible to weave from 96 to 144 pieces at the one time.
    2. Some fabrics under 18 inches in width.
    Narrow fabric web A term applied to narrow woven fabrics, especially woven elastic.
    Narrow elastic fabric An elastic fabric that is less than 150mm. in width. The main types are: (a) elastic web or narrow woven elastic, (b) elastic braid, flat or tubular, (c) crochet-knit elastic, and (d) narrow elastic lace.  
    Compare Wide elastic fabric
    Narrow goods Fabric defect. Fabric that has not been finished to the proper width. Usually caused by excessive treatment in one or more finishing operations. Though narrow width can be traced to many causes, the main reason could be improper stentering, where for some reason or other the cloth is not brought out at the specified width.
    Narrow goods 1. Cloth 27 inches or less in width is called narrow: Nine inches equals one quarter; hence, fabric known as narrow is a three-quarter goods.
    2. The term in the cotton trade signifies any fabric less than 40 inches.
    Narrow sheeting Cloth to be used for converting and industrial purposes is generally 40 inches or less in width. Made in many constructions, there are three general groups of sheeting, which are based on the counts of yarn:
    1. Coarse yarns from 1/10 to 1/15.
    2. Medium yarns from 1/16 to 1/21.
    3. Lightweight yarns from 1/22 to 1/29.
    Narrow width Cloth of incorrect width. Very often the cause of this defect is a too rigid treatment in fabric finishing. Narrow width may be traced to great many causes. Tentering of the cloth will often bring the cloth back to its original contract width.
    Narrowing In knitting, a movement of loops inwards at the selvage of a piece of fabric. The result is a decrease in the number of loops in the succeeding course. The term is used to describe the action of carrying this out and the actual site of it.
    Nastaliq One of the many scripts in which persian characters can be written.
    Natio A kind of cap popular in Gujarat and Rajasthan. It consists generally of a woven piece and headband, with a long flap, which hangs at the back to cover the neck.
    Natté A silk or rayon fabric made with different coloured warp and filling in a loose basket weave. 
    Native Regalia Simply means Indian dance, Potlatch etc., clothing apparel (costumes - in layman’s terms) and is basically made from animal skins.
    Natural  Of an off-white or beige colour.
    Natural Undyed or unbleached, in the natural state. Wool or cotton fibres often possess a natural grey, fawn, yellow, beige, brown or other colour. Textiles are often tinted or dyed to suggest a ‘natural’ colour.
    Natural Refers to the colour of the fibre as found in nature, i.e. unbleached and undyed. Linen and linen blends are often sold in their natural brown colour.
    Natural-and-colour Refers to yarn dye fabrics which combine natural yarns and coloured yarns in the design.
    Natural-and-over-print Refers to printing done on a natural ground.
    Natural bi-component fibre Wool and some other animal fibres are sometimes considered to be bi-component since they possess a side-by-side configuration of the ortho- and para-cortex, which results in crimp in the fibre.
    Neutral colours Colours include white, greys, blacks and colours that have a greyish cast.
    Natural draw ratio The ratio of the cross-sectional areas of a filament before and after the neck when a synthetic filament or film draws at a neck.
    See also Machine draw ratio 
    Natural dyes Up to the middle of the 19th century there were only natural dyes and most of these were vegetable origin. Natural indigo being one of the more important dyes.
    Natural dyes usually have no affinity for textile fibres until the fibres are treated with aluminum, iron, or tin compounds to receive the dye (mordanting). This is a problematic process and the dyes in any case have poor fastness to sun or abrasion.
    Natural dyes Are a class of colourants extracted from vegetative matter and animal residues.
    Natural dyes Dyes obtained from some natural source, e.g. indigo dye from a plant and cochineal dye from an insect. Application of natural dyes needs extensive pre-treatments with mordants. Most natural dyes have been replaced by synthetic dyes, because synthetic dyes are usually purer, cheaper and of better fastness. Some of the natural dyes and their colours are:
    Name Colour
    Alkanet Violet-grey
    Annatto Red
    Alum Green
    Barwood Red-brown
    Brazilwood Red-brown
    Camwood Red-brown
    Cochineal Scarlet
    Cocklebur leaves Yellow
    Fustic Yellow
    Hickory Green
    Myrtle bushes Grey
    Indigo plants Blue
    Lac Scarlet
    Logwood Purple-black
    Madder root Red
    Oak barks Brown
    Orchil Purple
    Persian berries Yellow
    Poke berries Red
    Quercitron Yellow
    Saffron Orange
    Sanderswood Red
    Sumac berries Black
    Sassafras Orange
    Turmeric Yellow
    Walnut hulls Brown
    Weld Yellow
    Natural fibres Any hairlike raw material directly obtainable from an animal, vegetable, or mineral source that can be convertible, after spinning, into yarns and then into woven cloth. The usefulness of a fibre for commercial purposes is determined by it's length, strength, pliability, elasticity, abrasion resistance, absorbency, and various surface properties.
    The earliest indication of hemp is in South East Asia in 4500 BC, linen in Egypt in 3400 BC, and cotton fibre use is in India in 3000 BC.
    Natural fibres Any fibre used for cloth that is not man-made or synthetic, such as cotton, rayon, silk, hemp, linen and wool
    Natural fibres Fibres that are found in nature, such as animal fibres (silk, wool), vegetable fibres (cotton, linen, jute) or mineral fibres (asbestos).
    Natural fibres Textile fibres are primarily categorised into natural fibres and man-made fibres.
    Natural fibres are those fibres, which occur naturally, as distinct from the man-made fibres. It is a class name for various genera of fibres (including filaments) of vegetable, animal and mineral origin.
    Natural fibres Textile fibres are primarily categorised into natural fibres and man-made fibres.
    Natural Fibres
    Vegetable origin
    from seed Cotton
    from bast Flax
    Jute
    Hemp
    Ramie
    from leaf Manila
    Sisal
    from fruit Coir (coconut)
    Animal origin
    from silkworm Silk
    Wild silk
    from wool Sheep wool
    from hair follicles Alpaca
    Camel
    Cow
    Goat (mohair)
    Goat (cashmere)
    Horse
    Rabbit angora
    Vicuna
    Mineral origin
    from rocks Asbestos
    Natural fibres are those fibres, which occur naturally, as distinct from the man-made fibres. It is a class name for various genera of fibres (including filaments) of vegetable, animal and mineral origin.
    See also Fibre and Man-made fibres
    Natural flax See Green flax
    Natural flax Scutched flax produced from deseeded straw without any intermediate treatment such as retting.
    Natural rubber fibre Term indicates a fibre that is made from a specific substance, natural rubber, and it is therefore a descriptive term based upon the chemical constitution of the fibre.
    Natural waist A seam or waistband that secures or falls at the natural curve of the body, which is the indentation between the hips and the ribcage.
    Nautical Refers to motifs with a nautical or maritime theme.
    Navel In rotor spinning a device, aligned on the axis of the rotor, through which the yarn is withdrawn.
    Navy  A variable colour averaging a dark greyish purplish blue.
    NE (Ne) See Non-elastic elongation
    Neatening Finishing a cut edge to prevent fraying. Various methods can be employed like turning in the edge, pinking, overedging, taping, etc.
    Neatness A term used for raw silk yarn to indicate the degree of freedom from loops, nibs and hairiness.
    Neck In the process of drawing synthetic filaments or films, the relatively short length over which a reduction in cross-sectional area occurs as a result of stretching beyond a critical value. Commercial drawing processes for man-made.
    Neck In the process of drawing synthetic filaments or films, the relatively short length over which a reduction in cross-sectional area occurs as a result of stretching beyond a critical value. Note: Commercial drawing processes for man-made fibres and films do not necessarily involve the formation of a neck.
    Neck In the process of drawing synthetic filaments or films, the relatively short length over which a reduction in cross-sectional area occurs as a result of stretching beyond a critical value. Note: Commercial drawing processes for man-made fibres and films do not necessarily involve the formation of a neck.
    Neck block
    Neck cap     		The cap, usually metal, that finishes off the neck top of a suit, coat, shirt or other headless form. It is usually finished in chrome or brass and sometimes topped with a finial or ring.
    Neck cloth Term used from the 17th century until ca. 1840 to describe either a cravat, stock, kerchief or bandanna worn around the neck.
    Necking In synthetic fibres, the abrupt reduction in diameter that may occur when an undrawn filament is stretched.
    Necking (Synthetic fibres) The sudden reduction in diameter that may occur when an undrawn filament is stretched.
    Neck-kerchief   A kerchief for the neck.
    Neck measure Measure around base of the neck (the lowest point of the neck). Number of inches equals the neck size you should order.
    Neck tie A decorative band of fabric worn around the neck and tied in a knot or bow.
    Neck-tie   A narrow length of material worn about the neck and tied in front.
    Neckwear Articles of clothing, as ties and scarves, worn about the neck.
    Needle
  • In general, a long wire with an eye.
  • In sewing machine, a thin shaft of drawn steel wire used for sewing, pointed at one or both ends, with an eye or a hook for threads or yarns.
  • In knitting, an instrument used for intermeshing loops in knitting. There is normally one needle for each wale.
    		•
    Needle The primary knitting element. A slender steel rod, shaped in such a way (with a hook) as to allow the forming of yarns into stitches. There are three types of needles: compound, latch, and spring beard.
    Needle bed Component of the knitting machine, which contains the needles. Referred to in warp knitting as the needle bar, in circular knitting as a cylinder and/ or dial, in flat weft knitting as the front/ back needle bed. 
    Needle bed A flat metal plate constituting one of the essential parts of a flat knitting machine. The plate (bed) is slotted at regular intervals to hold the knitting needles.
    Needle bed A flat slotted plate in which the knitting needles slide.
    Needle bonded fabric Fabric in which two or more webs of fibres are needled together. A batt of fibre is passed under, or between, barbed needles, which pass up and down through the batt locking the fibres together. 
    Needle Bonding See Needle punching.
    Needle bonding See Needling
    Needle cooler In sewing machine, a device for blowing a jet of cool air onto the needle during sewing.
    Needle cord Lightweight corduroy fabric usually made from cotton, with very short one-way piled fine cords along the length of the fabric. Made in piece dyed in solid colours or with printed designs, they are used for skirts, dresses, children’s clothes, and shirts. Usually hardwearing and washable.
    Needled A type of non-woven in which the fibres are entangled and mechanically bonded by needle punching.
    Needled fabric See Needle-bonded fabric, Needlefelt
    Needle damage
  • Sewing defect in sewn fabrics. The partial or complete yarn severance or fibre fusing caused by a needle passing through a fabric during sewing.
  • Damage caused to the material by the needle during sewing.
    		•
    Needle feed In sewing machine, a feed mechanism in which the feeding of the material is accomplished or assisted by the needle, which moves forward by one stitch while it is through the material.
    Needle felt A textile composed of natural, man-made, or a combination of natural and man-made fibres physically interlocked by the action of a needle loom with or without combination of other textile fabrics and with or without suitable combination of mechanical work, chemical action, moisture, and heat, but without weaving, knitting, stitching, thermal bonding, or adhesives.
    Needle-felting See Needling
    Needle felting See Needle punching.
    Needle-felt needle
    Synonym: Felting needle     		A barbed needle mounted in a needle loom to cause fibre reorientation and entanglement during needling.  
    Needle gauge The distance between needles on a sewing machine.
    Needleising
  • A method of removing properties of a cloth and its finish in order to make sewing easier (by overcoming resistance to the needle).
  • The finish of quaduga cloth.
    		•
    Needle line 1. In sewing, a major defect, caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches (vertical line). Now, most machines have stopping device to stop the machine, when this happens.
    2. In knitting, a wale that is different in configuration from the adjacent normal wales. It is usually caused by a misaligned or broken needle, which forms distorted stitches.
    Needle loom
  • For narrow fabrics, a shuttleless weaving machine in which the weft is drawn from a stationary supply and introduced into the shed in the form of a double-pick by a weft inserter needle. The weft is retained at the opposite selvedge by the action of knitting, or by the introduction of a locking thread from a separate supply.
  • For nonwovens, a machine for producing needlefelt. A needle beam reciprocates vertically at rates of upto 2000 cycles/minute (33Hz). Felting needles are mounted in a board at a density of 300-5000 per metre width and pass through a web or batt, which is supported between bed and stripper plates.
    • Needle loom selvedge A narrow fabric selvedge. A double pick is inserted into each successive shed from one side of the fabric. The selvedge at the side of the loom from which the double pick is inserted is secured by the structure of the fabric (the outside end is made to change sheds), and at the opposite selvedge successive loops of weft are locked by any one of the following: (a) knitting successive loops together, (b) knitting a catch-thread through the loops, (c) knitting a catch-thread through the loops together with a locking thread, or (d) passing a catchthread through each loop by means of a small shuttle.
    Needle loop A loop in knitted fabric, which has been drawn through a previous loop by a needle.
    Needle loop The upper curved portion of a knitted loop derived from that part of the loop formed by the needle.

    See also Knitted loop
    Needle plate See Throat plate
    Needle-point Simple stitch embroidery completely covering a mesh or canvas ground.
    Needlepoint Lace worked with a needle over a paper pattern.
    Needle-point A hand-made lace made by stitching according to a predetermined plan, a sewing needle and thread being used. This was originally a type of fine drawn thread work, but it has developed into a craft in which satin stitch and buttonhole stitch are worked over a basic thread.
    Needle-point fabric A novelty wool fabric that looks like ratiné and bouclé; made from curled or nubby yarns. Used chiefly for women's coats. Must be described as machine-made. Trade names are "Gros" and "Petit Point."
    Needle-point lace A hand-made lace made by stitching according to a predetermined plan, a sewing needle and thread being used. This was originally a type of fine-drawn thread work, but it has developed into a craft in which satin stitch and buttonhole stitch are worked over a basic thread.
    Needle-point lace A method of making lace by buttonhole stitches using an embroidery needle and thread on a heavy paper base.
    Needle positioner In sewing machine, a device which ensures that the needle will stop automatically either in or out of the fabric as required.
    Needle-punched A method of constructing a nonwoven fabric. Barbed needles are forced (punched) through a thick web or fleece of fibres. When these barbed needles are withdrawn, enough fibres are displaced or entangled to constitute a nonwoven fabric, used for blankets, outerwear, filters and papermaker’s felts.
    See Needle loom
    Needle-punched batting A textile filling material, which is stabilised by mechanically entangling the fibres.
    Needle-punching See Needling
    Needle-punching A process for making a non-woven textile in which a continuous mat of randomly laid fibres or filaments is entangled with barbed needles. This causes matting and the production of a "felt" textile.
    Needle-punch machine Machine used to interlock the fibres between them. This process is called ‘needle punching’ or ‘needle bonding’. Bearded needles go through a perforated plate, then through the web and then exit, leaving fibres entangled on the reverse side of the fabric. 
    Needle-run lace Lace in which the objects are formed or outlined by embroidering onto a net or lace base.
    Needle set-out Knitting term, which is the removal or deactivation of needles for long periods of time during the course of knitting, which is referred to as "drawn needles," the needle set out arrangement. Used to make sweater cuffs.
    Needles per unit width In tufted pile yarn floor covering, the number of binding sites per unit of floor covering width; needles being the means of inserting the pile yarn into the backing fabric.
    Needle transfer In knitting, the transfer of a double-headed latch needle from a slider in one bed or cylinder to the slider in the bed or cylinder opposite. 
    Needlework A general term for work performed with a needle, such as embroidery, knitting, some lace work, and sewing.
    Needling See Needle punching.
    Needling
    Synonyms: Needle punching, Needle felting, Needle bonding     		The use of barbed needles, mounted in a needle loom, to entangle a fibre web or batt by mechanical reorientation of some of the fibres within its structure.
    Negative beat-up An impulsive beat-up system using a light reed and lay, which are not positively driven.
    Negative let-off motion See under Let-off motion
    Negative shedding An operation in which the movement of the healds or harness is controlled in one direction only, the return movement being effected by springs or weights.
    See Shedding 
    Negative take-up A take-up system not positively driven, often powered from the beat-up mechanism. 
    Negligee A woman's long flowing usually sheer dressing gown; careless informal or incomplete attire.
    Negligée cap 18th century term for a cap worn within the house and also informally.
    Nehru jacket   Named after Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of independent India. The jacket was well known for its lack of lapels and lack of a collar. 
    Neoprene-treated Application of polychloroprene rubber compound on glass fibre, to improve the stability, knot holding properties, and abrasion resistance of the cord.
    Nep 
  • One or more fibres occurring in a tightly tangled unorganised mass; a small knot of entangled fibres in the yarn. In the case of cotton it usually comprises dead, tangled, immature cotton hairs, and loose waste particles which more or less roll into little balls as the stock is being processed.
  • Fabric defect. Nep specks appearing in fabric surface is very detrimental to most cotton fabrics.
    • Compare Pills
    Nep A small knot of entangled fibres. (in the case of cotton it usually comprises dead or immature cotton hairs.)
    Nep Small knots of fibre embedded in the yarn. May be intentional or unintentional.
    Nep A small knot of entangled fibres commonly regarded as a fault but sometimes introduced as an effect.
    Nepp yarn See Knickerbocker yarn
    Neppy yarn Yarn defect. A yarn in which the incidence of neps occurs at a relatively high level.
    Neppy yarn A yarn in which the incidence of nep occurs at a relatively high level and so constitutes a fault. Note: neppy yarns are sometimes used purposely as decoration.
    Nestling down A down not fully developed with a sheath and with soft barbs emanating from the sheath.
    Nestling feathers Immature feathers in which the barbs are held together and covered by a sheath.
    Net Gestitchesometrically shaped mesh.
    Net An open fabric, which is created by connecting the intersections in a woven, knitted, or crocheted construction to form a mesh-like appearance that won’t ravel. End-uses include veils, curtains, and fishnets.
    Net A mesh fabric of rayon, nylon, cotton, or silk; made in a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights. Used for evening dresses, curtains, veils and trimming.
    Net An open-meshed fabric twisted, knotted, or woven together at regular intervals.  Made on a lace machine or gauze or leno weaves.   A mesh fabric made in a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights. It is very open and light.   It forms the foundation for a great variety of laces, curtains, millinery, fancy pillows, trims, evening and bridal wear.   In cotton, some is used for mosquito netting and screening.
    Net Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, particularly nylon.
    Weave: Knotted, made on a lace machine or gauze or leno weaves.
    Characteristics: A mesh fabric made in a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights. It is very open and light.
    Uses: It forms the foundation for a great variety of laces, curtains, millinery, fancy pillows, trims, evening and bridal wear. In cotton, some is used for mosquito netting and screening.
    Net An open-mesh fabric in which a firm structure is ensured by some form of twist, interlocking, or knitting of the yarn. It may be produced by gauze weaving, knitting, or knotting, or on a lace machine. Net may be made from cotton, viscose, nylon, polyester and other fibres, according to its ultimate use. Made in varying sizes of mesh and used for curtains, dance dresses, veiling and trimmings.
    See also Plain net
    Net or ‘Voile’ Soft light and transparent fabric made from spun yarns and usually made of worsted yarns.
    Net embroidery Any type of needlework (embroidery) done on a net ground.
    Net silk
    Synonym: Nett silk
  • Yarn. The raw silk filaments or strands that have been processed into yarns by twisting and folding or both, as opposed to spun silk.
  • Fabric. The fabrics produced from net silk yarn. 
    • Nettle A nautical term for a small line made of two strands of rope yarn. Nettles are halves of yarns in the end of a rope twisted up for printing. Also called ‘Knittle’
    Nettle
    Synonym: Knittle    		 A nautical term for a small line made of two strands of rope yarn. Nettles are halves of yarns in the end of a rope twisted up for printing.
    Nettle Swedish hemp that is used for both cordage and textiles, known as urtica diocia.
    Nettle cloth See China-grass
    Nettle cloth
  • A lightweight, sheer fabric woven with nettle fibre.
  • A thick cotton cloth, which is japanned. Used for belts, and visors for caps.
    		•
    Nettle fibre A fine, short stem fibre obtained from two species of the stinging nettle urtica dioica, and urtica urena,either by retting or decorticating.
    Netting See Mesh
    Netting The knotting of threads into meshes that will not ravel. Chinese-type lace and finish net have a knot at every intersection. Knitted fabric may ravel or disentangle and the yarn may be used over again to make another fabric. Netting is done by hand or by machine.
    Nett silk See Net silk
    Nett silk Raw silk filaments that have been processed into yarns by twisting or folding.
    Nett silk Raw-silk filaments or strands that have been processed into yams by twisting and folding or both. Also descriptive of fabrics produced from nett silk.
    Neutral-dyeing acid dye An acid dye, which has substantivity for wool, silk and polyamide, when applied from a neutral bath.
    Neutral-dyeing acid dye An acid dye that from a neutral bath has useful substantivity for wool, silk or polyamide.
    Neutralisation The reaction of an acid with a base to form a salt and water. Usually, the reaction of hydrogen ions with hydrogen ions to form water molecules.
    Neutralise To make either an alkaline or an acid condition neutral.
    Neutral-premetalised acid dyes Much used on wool and other protein fibres, acrylics, modacrylics, and nylon and ideal for use in blends. Much used in colouring apparel. Fair to excellent to light, good to excellent in washing, excellent in dry-cleaning.
    Neutral rope A rope constructed in the arrangement of the twists of its component plies and final state so as to resist twisting or untwisting.
    Neutral soap Neutral soap contains no free alkali.
    Neutral soap Soap that contains compounds of lard or olive oil free from alkalies and soluble in both hard and soft water.
    See also Soap, Sharp soap
    Never-press Registered trademark name for the durable press process developed by Wamsutta Mills, Division of M. Lowenstein & Sons, Inc., Lyman, South Carolina.
    Newar A cotton tape made on handlooms in India. Used for cots.
    New fibre See Virgin fibre
    Newmarket  A long close-fitting coat worn in the 19th century
    New rags The waste fabric, whether or woven or knitted, that is left after a garment has been cut out. The term also covers piece ends and discarded pattern bunches.
    See also Rags
    New wool See Virgin wool.
    New wool One interpretation is that it is wool obtained in the fleece after sheep shearing. It also implies that wool fibres, obtained from various sources, have never been utilised in the manufacture of wool material. This loosely applied term does not designate as to the fibres being from live sheep, dead or slaughterhouse wool, etc. In this meaning the term is rather provincial.
    New Zealand flax See Phormium
    New Zealand flax Phormium tenax - an indigenous New Zealand plant and the fibre obtained from its leaves is sometimes called New Zealand flax or hemp, although now grown in other countries.
    New Zealand twills A very coarse jute fabric made in a two up, two down twill weave. Used for bagging and other purposes.
    Nib
    Synonym: Knib     		A defect in raw silk yarn consisting of thickened small places, less than 1/9 in. in length.
    Nicked selvedge Small cut (nick) made into the selvedge by the folding machine hooker.
    Nightcap  A cloth cap worn with nightclothes.
    Nightcap Worn in bed or in the 16th to 18th centuries informally within the house. Those worn by men were often exquisitely embroidered.
    Nightclothes   Garments for wear in bed.
    Nightdress  Nightgown; nightclothes.
    Nightgown  A loose garment for wear in bed.
    Nightie   A nightgown for a woman or child.
    Night rail   [Archaic] nightgown.
    Nightshirt   A nightgown resembling a shirt.
    Nile Green a pale yellow green.
    Nimainimatana A kind of tunic, a modified version of the kurta (q.v.), generally made of fine material.
    Ninety-day cotton An American cotton that matures early. It has a medium-sized boll and its fibres are approximately ¾ inch long.
    Ninon Fibre: Rayon. Synthetics.
    Weave: Plain, open mesh.
    Characteristics: A sheer, fairly crisp fabric, heavier than chiffon. Much like voile, but more body. The warp yarns are often grouped in pairs. Washes well, particularly in the synthetics.
    Uses: Mostly used for curtains, and some for evening or bridal wear.
    Ninon A lightweight, smooth, plain weave, open mesh fabric. It is usually of synthetic fibre. Used for eveningwear, curtains, and lingerie.
    Ninon  A sheer, fairly crisp fabric, heavier than chiffon. Much like voile, but more body.  The warp yarns are often grouped in pairs.   Washes well, particularly in the synthetics. Mostly used for curtains, and some for evening or bridal wear.
    Ninon A lightweight, plain weave, made of silk or manufactured fibres, with an open mesh-like appearance. Since the fabric is made with high twist filament yarns, it has a crisp hand. End uses include eveningwear and curtains.
    Ninon A smooth, transparent, high textured type of voile fabric. Made in plain or small novelty weaves, the warp ends work in pairs. It finds use in lingerie when made with cotton, silk, acetate or rayon, as well as in dress goods. Glass, nylon or polyester fibres are used when the fabric is to serve as curtaining.
    Ninon Woven in silk or man-made yarns. It is fine, light and soft and is used for dresses and blouses.
    Ninon Lightweight, plain weave, sheer, open construction fabric with high twist filament yarns giving the fabric a crisp hand. Heavier than a chiffon. Used for curtains, evening wear, etc.
    Ninon
    Synonym: Triple voile     		It is sheer and of plain weave. Usually viscose or acetate but may be polyester too. Should not be confused with ‘nylon’, because of the similarity of its name. Used mainly for sheer curtains. Fairly slippery. 
    Ninon A lightweight, smooth, plain weave, open mesh fabric. It is usually of synthetic fibre. Used for evening wear, curtains, lingerie.
    Nip
  • The line or area of contact or proximity between two contiguous surfaces that move so as to compress and or control the velocity of textile material passed between them.
  • The pressure area between two cylinders. In a padding mangle, for instance, the cloth passes through the nip to have excess liquid squeezed out.
  • The line of contact in the jaws of a tensile testing machine.
  • See Station
    		•
    Nip The line or area of contact or proximity between two contiguous surfaces that move so as to compress and/ or control the velocity of textile material passed between them.
    Nip A line or area of contact or proximity between two contiguous surfaces, which move so as to compress and/ or control the velocity of textile material passed between them.
    Nip The line or area of contact or proximity between two contiguous surfaces that move so as to compress and/ or control the velocity of textile material passed between them.
    Nip creases A defect occurring regularly along a fabric selvedge following a nipping operation such as padding or calendering. Caused by loosely wound selvedge or improper let-off tension, which allows the fabric to gather or fold over at the selvedge before it enters the nip of the rolls.
    Nip roller One or a pair of rollers intended to run with their cylindrical surfaces in contact or separated only by yarn or other textile material. The two rollers are intended to have the same surface speed and one normally drives the other by frictional contact. 
    Nito A coarse fibre similar to coir.
    Nitrocellulose rayon Rayon produced by the cellulose nitrate process, the original method of producing rayon yarn. It is no longer in commercial production. 
    No-flow See Anti-fusant
    No-flow primer No-flow, stop-flow, anti-diffusant and anti-fusant are all different names for this. It is painted onto the silk before dyeing, and keeps the dye from spreading when it touches the silk.
    Noil The comparatively very short fibres removed from longer fibres of wool, silk, cotton, viscose, etc. by combing, a preparatory process before spinning. These are sometimes used in the manufacture of carded yarns. See also Noil, Silk noil, Remanufactured wool
    Noil 1. The short fibres taken from any machine operation in the processing of textile fibres. They are obtained mostly in carding and combing operations. The stock may be high in quality but very short in length, too short to admit its being manipulated into yarn by itself. Noil is worked in with longer staple fibres to make yarn. Some noil may be made of medium or inferior quality.
    2. Short fibres that may be mixed in with longer staple woollen or worsted fibres in yarn manufacture; obtained from various frames.
    Noil  Short fibre removed during the combing of a textile fibre and often separately spun into yarn.
    Noil A fabric sportier in appearance and created by short silk fibres, often from the innermost part of the cocoon. Has the look of hopsack but much softer.
    Noil (Wool) The shorter fibres separated from the longer fibres in combing.
    Noil Shorter fibres separated from longer fibres in combing.
    Noil bourette (Silk) The fibres extracted during silk dressing or that are too short for producing spun silk. These fibres are usually spun on the condenser system to produce what are known as silk noil yarns.
    Noils A type of remanufactured wool. The shorter fibres of the wool staple extracted during the worsted combing process.
    See also Remanufacture wool
    Noils Noils are short fibres that are removed in the combing operation of yarn formation. Noils sometimes are mixed with other fibres to make low-quality yarns or are used for purposes other than yarn making, such as for padding and stuffing.
    Noil silk Waste fibres resulting from the processing of spun-silk yarn. F. T. C. rules require labelling as "silk noil," "noil silk," "silk waste," or "waste silk."
    Noil stripes Striped fabrics made of cotton and silk or worsted noil. The stripes are formed by noil ends dyed in bright colours. Dyed black cotton yarns are generally used in the rest of the warp and in the weft.
    No iron A fabric of either 100% man-made fibres or a blend of man-made and natural fibres. Resin treatment plus curing and heat pressing may or may not be used. Texture is smooth and requires no ironing or pressing after washing. Durable press refers to a fabric treated with resin, followed by curing and hot head pressing to set durable creases and pleats so that no further pressing is ever needed.
    No iron cotton Cotton fabric finished so as to require little or no ironing before wear and after washing.
    Nomelle Registered trademark of DuPont for turbo processed Orlon acrylic yarns.
    Nomex Registered trademark of DuPont for high temperature heat resistant aramid fibre. Can withstand heat up to 1,000° F.
    Nominal gauge length In testing, the length of a specimen under specpre-tension, measured from nip to nip of the jaws of the holding clamps in their starting position.
    Non-automatic loom A loom in which empty shuttles are replaced by full ones by hand.
    Non-cellulosic synthetic fibre Man-made fibres that are produced from chemical polymers other than cellulose. Nylon, acrylic, modacrylic, polyester, olefin and spandex are in this category.
    Non-chlorine bleach A bleach that does not release the hypochlorite ion in solution, e.g. sodium perborate and sodium percarbonate.
    Non-chlorine retentive finish See Chlorine resistant finish
    Non-combustible textile A textile that will neither ignite nor give off vapours that will ignite when subjected to external sources of ignition.
    Compare Combustible textile 
    Non-conformity An occurrence of failing to satisfy the requirements of the applicable specification; a condition that results in a nonconforming item.
    Non-crushable linen A fabric with tightly twisted weft, in plain weave, finished with a resin treatment to give elasticity. Uses are similar to those of dress linen. Launders easily, are wrinkle-resistant and durable.  
    Non-crushable linen Fibre: -
    Weave: Plain
    Characteristics: It is very versatile and has excellent washability and durability. It is treated so as to create a high resistance to wrinkling. This finish provides greater resilience and elasticity.
    Uses: -
    Non-crushable linen Plain weave cloth with highly twisted filling yarn or finished with resin to enhance elasticity. Has about the same uses as dress linen. Serviceable, durable, does not wrinkle, launders well.
    Non-durable finish A finish that must be renewed after the fabric has been washed or dry-cleaned.
    Non-elastic elongation
    Synonym: ne     		Elongation of rope, which is not reclaimed after the strain, is removed and then reapplied immediately.
    Non-fibrous matter Those oils, fats, waxes, dressings, salts and other soluble materials, all or some of which may be present in a fibre mixture.
    Non-flammable textile Any combustible textile that burns without a flame.
    See also Glow, Smouldering
    Compare Flammable textile, Combustible textile, Non-combustible textile.
    Non-inflammable textile Use preferred term Non-flammable textile
    Non-ionic dye A dye that does not dissociate electrolytically in aqueous solution.
    Non-ionic dye A dye that does not dissociate electrolytically in aqueous solution.
    Non-ionic dye A dye that does not dissociate electrolytically in aqueous solution.
    Non-ionic disperse dyes See Non-ionic disperse dyes
    Non-lint content That portion of a mass of cotton fibre, which is essentially foreign matter.
    Non-permanent finish A finish that is removed when subjected to such agents as friction, laundering, light, heat.
    Non-recoverable deformation See Permanent deformation
    Non-recoverable stretch See Permanent deformation
    Non-separable zipper In zippers, a zipper having two stringers that are permanently attached to each other at either or both ends.
    Compare Separable zipper
    Non-shrink See Shrinkage, Shrunk finish
    Non-shrinkable wool Wool treated chemically to resist shrinkage, especially felting shrinkage, by partial destruction or masking of the scales of the fibre. Various methods use chlorine or resin.
    See Chlorination, Chlorinated wool
    Non-slip finish A finish applied to a yarn to make it resistant to slipping and sliding when in contact with another yarn.
    Non-textile General merchandise, for use in clothing or home furnishings that is not manufactured from fibres. 
    Non-thermoplastic Not capable of being softened by heat.
    Non-torque yarn A stretch yarn that has no tendency to rotate when permitted to hang freely.
    See also Torque yarn
    Non-waterfowl feathers
    Synonym: Landfowl feathers    		 Feathers derived from chickens, turkeys, or other landfowl.
    Non-woven (According to ISO 9092:1988) a manufactured sheet, web or batt of directionally or randomly orientated fibres, bonded by friction and/ or cohesion and/ or adhesion, excluding paper and products which are woven, knitted, tufted, stitch bonded incorporating binding yarns or filaments, or felted by wet-milling, whether or not additionally needled.
    Non-woven A fabric formed of textile fibres that are held together by mechanical interlocking in a random web or mat, by fusing in the case of thermoplastic fibres, or by bonding with a cementing medium.
    Non-woven Fabric from a web of fibres held together by various methods other than felting, colouring, or intertwining.
    Non-woven blanket A blanket produced by bonding or interlocking of fibres, or both, accompanied by mechanical, or solvent means, or combination thereof.
    See also Blanket
    Non-woven fabric Fabrics made directly from individual fibres that are matted together by forming an interlocking web of fibres either mechanically (tangling together) or chemically (gluing, bonding, or melting together).
    Non-woven fabric In general, a textile structure made directly from fibre rather than yarn. Fabrics are normally made from extruded continuous filaments or from fibre webs or batts strengthened by bonding using various techniques: these include adhesive bonding, mechanical interlocking by needling or fluid jet entanglement, thermal bonding and stitch bonding. Note: Opinions vary as to the range of fabrics to be classified as non-woven. The controversial areas are: (i) wet-laid fabrics, containing wood pulp, in which the boundary with paper is not clear, (ii) stitch-bonded fabrics, which contain some yarn for bonding purposes; (iii) needled fabrics containing reinforcing fabric.
    Non-woven fabric In general, a textile structure made directly from fibre rather than yarn. Fabrics are normally made from extruded continuous filaments or from fibre webs or batts strengthened by bonding using various techniques: these include adhesive bonding, mechanical interlocking by needling or fluid jet entanglement, thermal bonding and stitch bonding. Note: Opinions vary as to the range of fabrics to be classified as nonwoven. The controversial areas are: (i) wet-laid fabrics, containing wood pulp, in which the boundary with paper is not clear, (ii) stitch-bonded fabrics, which contain some yarn for bonding purposes; (iii) needled fabrics containing reinforcing fabric.
    Non-woven fabric A textile structure produced by bonding and or interlocking of fibres, accomplished by mechanical, chemical, thermal or solvent means, and combinations thereof. The term does not include paper of fabrics, which are woven, knitted, tufted, or those made by wool or other felting processes.
    Non-woven fabrics A textile structure produced by bonding or interlocking of fibres, or both, accomplished by mechanical, chemical, thermal, or solvent means and combinations thereof. Any manufactured sheet or web, of random fibre, held together by physical or chemical means or both. A layer of threads ordered or random laid, made of staple fibres made by either the wet or dry process. The hardening is then effected either mechanically or by means of a swelling or binding agent. Excluded from this definition are woven, knitted, stitch-bonded, felt and paper fabrics.
    The fibres most commonly used for nonwovens are nylon, polyester and viscose. There are several different methods used for the formation of the web and a variety of ways in which the fibres are compacted and held together to become a nonwoven fabric which, dependent on the fibres and processes used, can sometimes be washed for a limited number of times and sometimes indefinitely before showing signs of breakdown. If made in 100% synthetic fibres which have been heat-bonded by sophisticated methods they can compete on equal terms with many woven and knitted fabrics. In particular nonwovens made by ‘lacing’ arranging thousands of fine filaments immediately after extrusion and allowing them to set in this intermingled form, gives a strong fabric which can be used for children’s anoraks, protective clothing, even book covers. However, most of the nonwovens have low abrasion resistance compared with other textiles.
    Non-woven fabrics (Bonding agents) There are two methods used at the present time, resin and thermoplastic. Resin bonding–This method is the more popular since it can be applied directly to the web from an aqueous dispersion as soon as it leaves the web-forming equipment. The dispersion may be applied in spray form, foam form, or by printing onto the web. The web is then dried and heat cured and may be calendered. Dyeing and curing are done on cans or in curing ovens. Temperatures range from 200 to about 400° F. Thermoplastic bonding– A thermoplastic fibre with a lower melting point than the base fibre is blended with the latter in the formation of the web. The web is either hot-calendered or embossed at the softening point of the thermoplastic fibre, thereby causing bonding to take place. The bonding agent constitutes from 10 to 30% of the weight of the finished fabric.
    Non-woven fabric Thermally-bonded Textile fabric composed of a web or batt of fibres containing heat-sensitive material, bonded by the application of heat, with or without pressure. The heat-sensitive materials may be in the form of fibres, bicomponent fibres or powders.
    Non-woven geotextile Ageotextile in the form of a manufactured sheet, web or batt of directionally or randomly orientated fibres, filaments or other elements, mechanically and/ or thermally and/ or chemically bonded.
    Non-wovens Are a sheet, web, or batt of natural and/ or man-made fibres or filaments, excluding paper, that have not been converted into yarns, and that are bonded to each other by any of several means.  The various methods for bonding are:
  • Adding an adhesive
  • Thermally fusing the fibres or filaments to each other or to the other meltable fibres or powders.
  • Fusing fibres by first dissolving, and then resolidifying their surfaces.
  • Creating physical tangles or tuft among the fibres.
  • Stitching the fibres or filaments in place.
    • Norfolk jacket   A loose fitting belted single-breasted jacket with box pleats.
    Normal A trade term for knit goods made of natural coloured cotton and wool mixed.
    Normal cotton fibre A term used in relation to cotton maturity. Fibre whose wall has developed to greater than a specified amount.
    Normal fibre See under Cotton maturity.
    Normal mixture A knit fabric made of a mixture of cotton and wool in black and white combination.
    Nosepiece   A piece of armour for protecting the nose.
    Notation A shorthand system used to express on a graph paper the stitch structure employed in the fabric.
    Notched collar A two-piece collar that can be only worn open.
    Notches Small cuts made in the edges of garment parts, which are used as guides during garment assembly.
    See Balance marks
    No-throw A very soft silk yarn composed of two or more untwisted singles twisted together with the minimum amount of turns necessary to bind the strands to prevent them from forming loops in the yarn.
    Nottingham lace Often used to describe a flat, coarse lace used for curtains, bedspreads and tablecloths. But Nottingham being the home of the machine lace industry, the word is also used to describe any lace made on a Nottingham-type machine.
    Nottingham lace A wide machine made lace. Originally made in Nottingham, England.
    Noué A French term for knotted.
    Novel textile design Motif or pattern never before represented pictorially as a textile design in any part of the world; never has it been applied to or has it been a part of any textile.
    Novelty A general term that refers to a fabric that is not basic or common, i.e. One that has unusual or special effects in the yarn, weave, colouring or finishing.
    Novelty tweed Description indicates that the cloth is tweed-like, but it is not one of the conventional tweeds that are easy to recognize. Usually a cloth with some decoration or distinguishing feature.
    Novelty weave Any weave, which varies, or combines the basic weaves, plain, satin and twill.
    Novelty weave Any small weave made from a combination of the staple basic weaves such as plain, twill, satin, basket, and rib. Novelty-weave effects are used in counterpanes, dress goods, shirtings, linens, and stripe effects.
    Novelty yarn A yarn that is intentionally produced to have a special or unique effect. These effects can be produced by twisting together uneven single yarns, by using yarns that contain irregularities, or by twisting yarns that contain a colour variance. A slubbed yarn is an example of a novelty yarn.
    Novelty yarn Yarns that are uneven in size, varied in colour or deliberately modified to produce a special effect.
    Novelty yarn See Fancy yarn
    Novelty yarns Irregular, uneven-in-diameter yarns made for special textured and textural effects. Examples include bouclé, bug, chenille, Knickerbocker, loop, nub, slub, thick-and-thin and so on.
    Novelty / Accent  yarns   These yarns are very fine and are not intended to be used by themselves; they are intended to be knit with another yarn and will provide additional colour and texture to a finished fabric. They do possibly change the gauge of your fabric, so a swatch is recommended whenever you are going to use an accent yarn to make the necessary adjustment to your needle size.
    Novoloid A manufactured fibre containing at least 85% by weight of a cross-linked novolac. Registered trademarks include Kynol (Carborundum Co.).
    Novoloid fibre A manufactured fibre containing at least 85% by weight of a cross-linked novolac. A novolac is a phenol-formaldehyde condensate of low molecular weight made using an excess of phenol. 
    No wale corduroy A corduroy with a short all over cut pile and thus no visible wale.
    Nozzle The spinneret or jet used in producing man-made fibres.
    NPI A term referring to the ‘Number of Needles per Inch’ in the needle bed or cylinder of a knitting machine; sometimes mistakenly referred to as ‘gauge’.
    NPI The number of needles per inch in the cylinder or needle bed in a knitting frame. Sometimes referred to as the "cut" and often mistakenly called the "gauge." Also written as NPI. Gauge refers to the number of needles in one and one-half inches while cut refers to the number of needles in one inch.
    Nuage A French word meaning cloud, mist, shadow, darkness, etc. applied to fabrics showing these effects in colour decoration.
    Nub
    Synonym: Slub    		 A small lump, knot or speck in yarn or fabric. Sometimes a snarl or tangled mass of fibres. Employed in knickerbocker and other types of novelty yarn.
    NuBlend The combination of a knitting and spinning process developed by Jerzees for their fleece that helps prevent pilling.
    Nub yarns Irregular yarns containing enlarged segments (nubs) made by twisting one end of yarn several times around another within a shorter space. Sometimes a binder yarn is used to hold the nub in place.
    Nub yarns A type of novelty yarn where bloated or enlarged portions or segments are effected by twisting one end of a yarn several times around in a comparatively short space span. A binder or core yarn is often resorted to and around which the fancy or nub yarn is wound, spirally or in some comparable formation. Uses include fancy yarn effects in heavy coatings, some dress goods, sweaters, decorative and upholstery fabrics.
    Number See Yarn number and Yarn numbering system
    Number duck A duck fabric in plain weave made with medium or heavy plied yarns.
    See also Duck
    Number of Needles per Inch See N P I
    Number of turns Stated in turns per unit length.
    Number of yarn See count
    Numdah stitches A felt Indian rug of goat's hair embroidered with colored chain stitches.
    Nun’s veiling Fine, lightweight plain-weave, plain coloured, worsted or silk fabric, which is very soft and thin. Now used for dresses, but was at one time used only for religious gowns. Originally dyed only black, brown or grey, but as a dress fabric it is produced in fashion colours. Used for dresses, blouses, and nightwear. A warm, soft, attractive fabric that drapes and gathers well.
    Nun's veiling Plain weave, soft to the touch, lightweight cloth that comes usually in black or white. Rather flimsy fabric but always of good quality. Resembles worsted challis. Made of worsted, fine woollen yarn, nylon, acrylic, polyester, and comparable fibres. Care must be used in manipulating the fabric, which washes easily and launders well, and has excellent draping qualities, and gives good wear.
    Nun’s veiling A plain weave, lightweight, sheer fabric of high quality usually found in black or white. May be made of wool silk cotton or synthetics. Named for it’s original use by religious orders.
    Nursery cloth A quilted bleached cotton muslin. Washable. Used in nursery.
    Nurse’s cloth A coloured, woven, plain, matt or twill fabric, mainly in stripes of blue and white, having 27x20 threads per cm. with 25 tex cotton warp and weft. It is used for overalls for ladies’ and nurses’ uniforms.
    Nut-brown  Of the colour of a brown nut.
    Nutria Characteristics: Mainly found in South America. Beautiful, silky, fine belly undergrowth.
    Uses: Primarily used by the fur industry but the textile industry often uses fibres in blends emphasizing softness.
    Nutria fur Comes from a small South American animal and is similar tobeaver cloth.
    Nyesta Registered trademark of Roselon Industries for suffer box textured yarns made from feeder yarns. (Mainly, but not necessarily, Antron nylon.) The mark applies to fabrics using such yarns.
    Nylon Another word for polyamide.
    Nylon Synthetic polyamide fibre.
    Nylon Any of numerous strong tough elastic synthetic polyamide materials that are fashioned into fabrics.
    Nylon Nylon became a household word in 1940 when it was knitted into hosiery. In 1942 it was called into service for the armed forces use in parachutes, flak vests, combat uniforms, tires and many other vital military uses. Until the war was over nylon was not available to the public. Nylon became one of the most versatile fibres of the man-made fabrics. In addition to hosiery, nylon is used in tricot, netting for bridal veils, and in carpeting.
    Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly used fibre. It is elastic and resilient and responsive to heat setting. Nylon fibres are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn’t cling to this smooth fibre nor is it weakened by chemicals and perspiration. Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can eventually cause piling. Nylon whites should be washed separately to avoid graying. This fabric may yellow so it should be bleached frequently with sodium perborate bleach.
    Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary, always use a low temperature on the wrong side.
    Nylon
    Cloth or yarn made from a family of high-strength, resilient synthetic polymers. It is a strong, easy care; pliable fibre used in hosiery, sportswear, and canvas and lots more. If it is not treated with oils to make it softer and more pliable, it can be dyed with acid dye.
    Nylon A synthetic fibre formed into a filament for use in thread making and other applications. It has good strength and excellent abrasion resistance.
    Nylon Nylon became a household word in 1940 when it was knitted into hosiery. In 1942 it was called into service for the armed forces use in parachutes, flak vests, combat uniforms, tires and many other vital military uses. Until the war was over nylon was not available to the public. Nylon became one of the most versatile fibres of the man-made fabrics. In addition to hosiery, nylon is used in tricot, netting for bridal veils, and in carpeting.
    Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly used fibre. It is elastic and resilient and responsive to heat setting. Nylon fibres are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn’t cling to this smooth fibre nor is it weakened by chemicals and perspiration. Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can eventually cause piling. Nylon whites should be washed separately to avoid greying. This fabric may yellow so it should be bleached frequently with sodium perborate bleach.
    Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary, always use a low temperature on the wrong side.
    Nylon (Synthetic fibre) (Generic name) See Polyamide (Synthetic fibre).
    Nylon Fibre: -
    Weave: -
    Characteristics: This manufactured fibre is very strong and is resistant to both abrasion and damage from many chemicals. It is elastic, easy to wash and is quite lustrous. It returns easily to it's original shape and is non-absorbent. It is fast drying, resistant to some dyes, and resistant to moths and other insects, water, perspiration and standard dry-cleaning agents.
    Uses: Women's hosiery, knitted or woven lingerie, socks and sweaters, rugs and carpets, tents, sleeping bags, duffle bags, racquet strings, fishing lines, sails, tire cord, machine belting, filter netting, fish nets, laminates, and ropes.
    Nylon Produced in 1938, the first completely synthetic fibre developed. Known for its high strength and excellent resilience, nylon has superior abrasion resistance and high flexibility.
    Nylon A manufactured fibre in which the forming-forming substance is a long chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85 percent of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings. Registered trademarks include: Anso, Caprolan (Allied Chemical); Antron, Cantrece, Cordura, Qiana (DuPont); Celanese (Celanese); Crepeset, Enkaloft. Enkalure, Enkasheer, Multisheer (American Enka Co.); Vivana, Zefran (Badische).
    Nylon / Polyamide Type: Man made
    FTC definition: A manufactured fibre in which the fibre forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85% of the amide-linkages are attached directly (-CO-NH-) to two aromatic rings.
    Abrasion resistance: Good
    Absorbency: Low moisture absorbency
    Appearance/hand: Lustrous, crisp
    Biological resistance: Resistant to moths and mildew
    Care: Usually can be washed or dry cleaned, easy to wash, dries quickly
    Drape: Fair to good
    Dyeability: Good, dyes easily
    Flammability: Melts at 500°F (260°C)
    Pilling resistance: Subject to pilling
    Shrinkage: Good resists shrinkage, good shape retention
    Static resistance: Poor, subject to static buildup
    Strength:  Exceptional strength
    Uses: Swimwear, active wear, intimate apparel, hosiery, blouses, dresses, jackets, skirts, raincoats, ski and snow apparel, windbreakers, children’s swear, carpets, rugs, curtains, upholstery, draperies, bedspreads, luggage, back packs, life vests, umbrellas, sleeping bags, tents.
    Nylon (Pa) Nylon is a synthetic fibre invented by DuPont that was used originally for hosiery but is currently used in many applications. Nylon is naturally water repellent, easy to dye, and very strong. These features have helped nylon replace cotton in many industrial uses like bags and flags and is very popular for use in the outerwear apparel industry. Nylon has a poor absorbency.
    Nylon (Synthetic fibre) (Generic name) See polyamide (synthetic fibre).
    Nylon fibre A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is a long chain, synthetic polyamide in which, less than 85% of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings.
    The accepted generic name for the polyamide fibre, which is produced from mineral sources. Although resistant to most chemicals, nylon is damaged by strong oxidising bleaches and concentrated acids; easy to dye and is colourfast. Melts at low temperature but does not catch light. Nylon fibre is non-absorbent, hardwearing and blends well with most other fibres.
    Two types of fibre - nylon 6.6 and nylon 6 - dominate the polyamide fibre field. These are general purpose fibres that represent the bulk of polyamide fibre production. The commercially important types of polyamide fibre are: Nylon6.6, Nylon 6, Nylon 11, Nylon 6.10, and Nylon3, Nylon 4, Nylon 5, Nylon 7, Nylon 8, Nyon 9, Nylon 12. A number of new types of polyamide fibre are being continuously developed and some show prospects of achieving real importance in due course.
    Nylon is the accepted better material for ladies’ stockings, because it has a lower initial resistance to stretch than polyester.  It is more comfortable and responsive to wear.
    It is not regarded as being dangerously flammable; melts when ignited and the flame tends to go out when the molten portion drops away.
    Ordinary nylon filaments are circular in cross-section, which does not help handle. Different shapes of filament have been produced notably those with a rounded or triangular cross-section. These fibres have been found to have a firmer and more pleasant handle when used in fabrics.
    The so-called glitter nylon is a variation of this technique whereby a trilobal shape of filament produces a higher degree of internal reflections in the fibres causing them to ‘sparkle’.
    Special high-tenacity types of nylon have been developed for industrial uses such as tyre cords, ropes, transmission belts and many other uses where high strength and toughness are required.
    A development in nylon has been the bi-component fibre in which each fibre is made from two forms of the nylon polymer so that each fibre is composed of approximately half conventional material and the other half modified polymer joined lengthwise as in diagram shown above. In wet treatments of fabric during finishing the modified polymer portion shrinks more than the conventional portion and the resulting stresses cause fibres to crimp and produce bulk and softer structure. ‘Cantrece’ is a fibre of this type.
    Nylon ciré A type of shiny, lightweight, plain weave nylon fabrics that have been given a pretty wax finish used for thin rainwear, anoraks, protective clothing, aprons, etc. It is shower proof rather than waterproof.
    Nylon jersey Similar to Tricot but heavier. A very useful lining and mounting fabric. Although in many other cases, polyester fibre has superseded nylon, this is not the case with nylon jersey. It is hardwearing and has a limited amount of ‘give’, which will prevent the outer fabric from losing its shape. Nylon jersey may be anti-static.
    Nylonizing A process by which a thin coating of nylon polymer is deposited on a fabric’s surface. The coating hardens. Nylonizing technique include either immersing the fabric in nylon solution or vapour-depositing nylon on it.
    Nylon-spandex Bi-component Fibre A conjugate spun filament composed of nylon and spandex segments joined along its entire length.
    See Conjugate-spun fibre
    Nytril A manufactured fibre, most often used in sweaters or pile fabrics, where little or no pressing is recommended, as the fibre has a low softening or melting point. However, it has also been successfully used in blends with wool for the purpose of minimising shrinkage and improving the shape retention in garments.
    Nytril (fibre) (US) A term used to describe manufactured fibres containing at least 85% of a long-chain polymer of 1,1-dichloroethene (vinylidene dinitrile) where the vinylidene dinitrile content is no less than every other unit in the polymer chain.
    Nytril A manufactured fibre containing at least 85% of a long chain polymer of vinylidene dinitrile where the vinylidene dinitrile content is no less than every other unit in the polymer chain. Not currently produced in the U.S.
    Nytril Fibre A manufactured fibre containing at least 85% of long chain polymer of vinylidene dinitrile, where the vinylidene dinitrile content is not less than every other unit in the polymer chain.
    Nytril (Fibre) (US) A term used to describe manufactured fibres containing at least 85% of a long-chain polymer of 1,1-dichloroethene (vinylidene dinitrile) where the vinylidene dinitrile content is no less than every other unit in the polymer chain.
     
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