| N.P.I. |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A term referring
to the 'Number of Needles per Inch' in the needle bed
or cylinder of a knitting machine |
A term referring
to the 'Number of Needles per Inch' in the needle bed
or cylinder of a knitting machine; sometimes mistakenly
referred to as 'gauge'. |
| NACRÉ PRINTS |
fabrics |
A blurred effect
produced by printing cloth while it is damp, so that colour
seeps away from design. |
A blurred effect
produced by printing cloth while it is damp, so that colour
seeps away from design. Similar to result achieved by
printing warp yarns before weaving. The word 'nacré'
means changeable, iridescent |
| NACRÉ VELVET |
fabrics |
A velvet fabric
in which the backing is woven in a different color from
the pile |
A velvet fabric
in which the backing is woven in a different color from
the pile, giving an interesting, changeable appearance
in wear. |
| NAILHEAD |
fabrics |
Woven-in designs
including dots, bird's eye, hopsack and small houndstooth |
Woven-in designs
including dots, bird's eye, hopsack and small houndstooth;
usually found in clear finished, sharkskin type worsteds. |
| NAINSOOK |
fabrics |
Soft, fine, light
cotton fabric made from combed yarns, in plain weave,
often mercerized, similar to Batiste in the piece. |
Soft, fine, light
cotton fabric made from combed yarns, in plain weave,
often mercerized, similar to Batiste in the piece. Once
a popular dress fabric but now mainly used as ready-to-apply
soft cotton bias binding. |
| NAINSOOK FINISH |
processes, operations |
A soft finish with
slight lustre on both sides of the fabric. |
A soft finish with
slight lustre on both sides of the fabric. No sizing is
used. English nainsook has a soft finish, while French
nainsook has crisper, calendered finish. |
| NAKED WOOL |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A new kind of lightweight
100% wool garment. |
A new kind of lightweight
100% wool garment. Claimed to be always 'naturally' comfortable,
warm when the weather is chilly, and cool when the weather
is chilly, and cool when it is hot. |
| NANDEL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
Acrylic fabrics
with rotofil yarn made of short fibres bound together
by a surface filament fibre. |
Acrylic fabrics
with rotofil yarn made of short fibres bound together
by a surface filament fibre. The filament/staple wrapped
yarn made by a special process. Fabrics made of this yarn
are fuzz resistant, pill resistant, shrink resistant,
wrinkle resistant, machine washable, dryable, needs little
or no ironing and have good dimensional stability. Used
for dress and sport shirts. |
| NAP |
fabrics |
A fuzzy or downy
surface produced on a fabric or felt in which, part of
the fibre is raised from the basic structure, either on
one side or both |
A fuzzy or downy
surface produced on a fabric or felt in which, part of
the fibre is raised from the basic structure, either on
one side or both. Nap may be raised in stripes or other
patterns or may be sheared to obtain uniform length. Loosely
twisted yarns are incorporated in fabric, which is to
be napped to facilitate this process; generally used in
the weft. The interlacings between the warp and weft threads
are covered to a great extent by the nap, which also acts
as an insulator. The length of the nap varies in the different
fabrics which are given this type of finish, e.g. flannel,
blanketing, overcoating. Certain knit goods also are napped,
such as the various types of brushed knit fabrics of man-made
fibres. The brushing is done generally with wire brushes
or teasel burrs. Nap is not to be confused with pile,
which is formed by extra yarn in a different operation. |
| NAPERY |
fabrics |
A general term
for tablecloths, napkins and other household linens, made
of linen or cotton. |
A general term
for tablecloths, napkins and other household linens, made
of linen or cotton. |
| NAPHTHALATING |
processes, operations |
A process by which
virgin wool is gently cleansed in three baths of naphtha
and then rinsed in clean flowing water. |
A process by which
virgin wool is gently cleansed in three baths of naphtha
and then rinsed in clean flowing water. No soap or alkaline
solutions are used; raking, forking, and excessive handling
are eliminated. The wool retains its original life, strength,
and resiliency. |
| NAPHTHOL COLOURS |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Azoic dyes |
See Azoic dyes |
| NAPIER |
fabrics |
A double-faced
overcoating with wool face and vicuna or goat's hair back. |
1. A double-faced
overcoating with wool face and vicuna or goat's hair back.
2. A floor covering of good quality made of hemp and jute |
| NAPPA LEATHER |
fabrics |
This is the skin
of sheep or goats that has been tanned by a Californian
process using oil. |
This is the skin
of sheep or goats that has been tanned by a Californian
process using oil. |
| NAPPED FABRICS |
fabrics |
Fabrics finished
with a nap on one side or both sides. |
Fabrics finished
with a nap on one side or both sides. The nap might cover
the entire fabric or only parts of its surface |
| NAPPER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A finishing operation
machine on which napping is carried out. |
A finishing operation
machine on which napping is carried out. See Napping. |
| NAPPING |
processes, operations |
Also called Raising. |
Also called Raising.
A finishing process in which part of the fibres from the
basic structure of a textile material are raised to the
surface by means of revolving cylinders covered with metal
points or teazle burrs. Apart from teazling, other means
like brushing, or rubbing also may be employed for producing
such a layer of protruding fibres on the surface of fabrics.
Napping finish is usually given to fabrics such as outing
flannel, wool broadcloth, knit goods, blankets, etc. |
| NAPPING COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A generally short,
crinkly cotton fibre with good napping properties. |
A generally short,
crinkly cotton fibre with good napping properties. Used
in the manufacture of blankets and other napped fabrics
serving as excellent insulators because through its use
there are numerous air cells or pockets. |
| NAPPY FABRIC |
defects |
Fabric defect.
An excessive number of small tangles or knots of fibre
appearing on the fabric surface. |
Fabric defect.
An excessive number of small tangles or knots of fibre
appearing on the fabric surface. The defect is often caused
by poor carding or combing of fibre or by contamination
during preparation for spinning. |
| NARROW ELASTIC
FABRIC |
fabrics |
An elastic fabric
that is less than 150 mm, in width. |
An elastic fabric
that is less than 150 mm, in width. The main types are:
(i) elastic web or narrow woven elastic, (ii) elastic
braid, flat or tubular, (iii) crochet-knit elastic, and
(iv) narrow elastic lace. (Compare Wide elastic fabric.) |
| NARROW FABRIC |
accessories |
Any textile fabric
made by interlacing fibres or yarns which (in the U.K.)
does not exceed 45 cm, and (in the U.S.A. and other countries)
does not exceed 30 cm. |
Any textile fabric
made by interlacing fibres or yarns which (in the U.K.)
does not exceed 45 cm, and (in the U.S.A. and other countries)
does not exceed 30 cm. Narrow fabrics are characterized
by the edges, which are their essential feature.
The category of narrow fabrics includes tapes, ribbons,
and webbings. Narrow fabrics can be pro-duced from any
textile fibre, including elastomers, by weaving, braiding,
knitting or other methods. They can also be made by cutting
or slitting wider fabrics into narrow strips.
It is to be noted, that the term 'narrow fabric' is incorrectly
applied in some sections of the trade to fabrics which
are narrower than the normal width for a specific fabric
type. |
| NARROW GOODS |
defects |
Fabric defect.
Fabric that has not been finished to the proper width. |
Fabric defect.
Fabric that has not been finished to the proper width.
Usually caused by excessive treatment in one or more finishing
operations. Though narrow width can be traced to many
causes, the main reason could be improper stentering,
where for some reason or other the cloth is not brought
out at the specified width. |
| NARROWING |
processes, operations |
In knitting, a
movement of loops inwards at the selvage of a piece of
fabric. |
In knitting, a
movement of loops inwards at the selvage of a piece of
fabric. The result is a decrease in the number of loops
in the succeeding course. The term is used to describe
the action of carrying this out and the actual site of
it. |
| NATTÉ |
fabrics |
A silk or rayon
fabric |
A silk or rayon
fabric made with different coloured warp and filling in
a loose basket weave. |
| NATURAL |
general |
Undyed or unbleached,
in the natural state. |
Undyed or unbleached,
in the natural state. Wool or cotton fibres often possess
a natural grey, fawn, yellow, beige, brown or other colour.
Textiles are often tinted or dyed to suggest a 'natural'
colour. |
| NATURAL DRAW RATIO |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Draw
ratio |
See under Draw
ratio |
| NATURAL DYES |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Dyes obtained from
some natural source, e.g. indigo dye from a plant and
cochineal dye from an insect. |
Dyes obtained from
some natural source, e.g. indigo dye from a plant and
cochineal dye from an insect. Application of natural dyes
needs extensive pre-treatments with mordants. Most natural
dyes have been replaced by synthetic dyes, because synthetic
dyes are usually purer, cheaper and of better fastness. |
| NATURAL FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Textile fibres
are primarily categorized into natural fibres and man-made
fibres. |
Textile fibres
are primarily categorized into natural fibres and man-made
fibres.
Natural fibres are those fibres, which occur naturally,
as distinct from the man-made fibres. It is a class name
for various genera of fibres (including filaments) of
vegetable, animal and mineral ori-gin. |
| NATURAL FLAX |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Green flax. |
See Green flax. |
| NATURAL RUBBER
FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Term indicates
a fibre that is made from a specific substance, natural
rubber |
Term indicates
a fibre that is made from a specific substance, natural
rubber, and it is therefore a descriptive term based upon
the chemical constitution of the fibre. |
| NE |
general |
See Non-elastic
elongation. |
See Non-elastic
elongation. |
| NEATENING |
processes, operations |
Finishing a cut
edge to prevent fraying. |
Finishing a cut
edge to prevent fraying. Various methods can be employed
like turning in the edge, pinking, overedging, taping,
etc. |
| NEATNESS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A term used for
raw silk yarn |
A term used for
raw silk yarn to indicate the degree of freedom from loops,
nibs and hairiness. |
| NECK |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
In the process
of drawing synthetic filaments or films, the relatively
short length over which a reduction in cross-sectional
area occurs as a result of stretching beyond a critical
value. |
In the process
of drawing synthetic filaments or films, the relatively
short length over which a reduction in cross-sectional
area occurs as a result of stretching beyond a critical
value. Commercial drawing processes for man-made |
| NECKING |
processes, operations |
In synthetic fibres,
the abrupt reduction in diameter that may occur when an
undrawn filament is stretched. |
In synthetic fibres,
the abrupt reduction in diameter that may occur when an
undrawn filament is stretched. |
| NECKTIE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A decorative band
of fabric worn around the neck and tied in a knot or bow. |
A decorative band
of fabric worn around the neck and tied in a knot or bow. |
| NEEDLE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
GENERAL. A long
wire with an eye. |
1. GENERAL. A long
wire with an eye.
2. IN SEWING MACHINE, a thin shaft of drawn steel wire
used for sewing, pointed at one or both ends, with an
eye or a hook for thread or yarn.
3. IN KNITTING, an instrument used for intermeshing loops
in knitting. There is normally one needle for each wale.
Bearded needle: Also called Spring needle. A needle formed
of one piece of spring steel having a long terminal hook
or beard that can be flexed by an action known as pressing.
The beard returns to its original position when the pressure
is removed.
Carbine needle: A needle similar in shape to a bearded
needle but with the beard shielded by a shoulder on the
stem. The needle may only be lapped in one direction for
the yarn to pass under the beard. A presser is not necessary,
as the needle is self-acting, the shoulder passing the
loop onto the beard. The needle has a limited use, mainly
in crochet-type machines.
Double-ended needle: A needle having a hook and a latch
(or a beard) at each end.
Latch needle: A needle having a small terminal hook closed
by a pivoting latch. The action is automatic as the fabric
loop overturns the latch and allows the loop to be knocked
over. The newly formed loop is drawn by the hook, and
loop-forming and knock-over proceed simultaneously.
Two-piece needle: Also called Compound needle. A needle
having two separately controlled parts; a hook member
and a hook-closing member. |
| NEEDLE BED |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A flat metal plate
constituting one of the essential parts of a flat knitting
machine. |
A flat metal plate
constituting one of the essential parts of a flat knitting
machine. The plate (bed) is slotted at regular intervals
to hold the knitting needles. |
| NEEDLE COOLER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In sewing machine,
a device for blowing a jet of cool air onto the needle
during sewing. |
In sewing machine,
a device for blowing a jet of cool air onto the needle
during sewing. |
| NEEDLE DAMAGE |
defects |
Sewing defect in
sewn fabrics. |
1. Sewing defect
in sewn fabrics. The partial or complete yarn severance
or fibre fusing caused by a needle passing through a fabric
during sewing.
2. Damage caused to the material by the needle during
sewing |
| NEEDLE FEED |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In sewing machine,
a feed mechanism |
In sewing machine,
a feed mechanism in which the feeding of the material
is accomplished or assisted by the needle which moves
forward by one stitch while it is through the material. |
| NEEDLE FELT |
fabrics |
A textile composed
of natural, man-made, or a combination of natural and
man-made fibres physically interlocked |
A textile composed
of natural, man-made, or a combination of natural and
man-made fibres physically interlocked by the action of
a needle loom with or without combination of other textile
fabrics and with or without suitable combination of mechanical
work, chemical action, moisture, and heat, but without
weaving, knitting, stitching, thermal bonding, or adhesives. |
| NEEDLE GAUGE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
The distance between
needles on a sewing machine. |
The distance between
needles on a sewing machine. |
| NEEDLE LINE |
defects |
IN SEWING. A major
defect, caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches |
1. IN SEWING. A
major defect, caused by bent needle forming distorted
stitches (vertical line). Now, most machines have stopping
device to stop the machine, when this happens.
2. IN KNITTING. A wale that is different in configuration
from the adjacent normal wales. It is usually caused by
a misaligned or broken needle which forms distorted stitches. |
| NEEDLE LOOM SEVEDGE |
accessories |
A narrow fabric
selvedge. A double pick is inserted into each successive
shed from one side of the fabric. |
A narrow fabric
selvedge. A double pick is inserted into each successive
shed from one side of the fabric. The selvedge at the
side of the loom from which the double pick is inserted
is secured by the structure of the fabric (the outside
end is made to change sheds), and at the opposite selvedge
successive loops of weft are locked by any one of the
following: (i) knitting successive loops together, (ii)
knitting a catch-thread through the loops, (iii) knitting
a catch-thread through the loops together with a locking
thread, or (iv) passing a catchthread through each loop
by means of a small shuttle |
| NEEDLE LOOP |
fabrics |
See under Knitted
loop. |
See under Knitted
loop. |
| NEEDLE PLATE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Throat plate |
See Throat plate |
| NEEDLE POINT |
fabrics |
A hand-made lace
made by stitching according to a predetermined plan, a
sewing needle and thread being used. |
A hand-made lace
made by stitching according to a predetermined plan, a
sewing needle and thread being used. This was originally
a type of fine drawn thread work, but it has developed
into a craft in which satin stitch and buttonhole stitch
are worked over a basic thread. |
| NEEDLE POSITIONER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In sewing machine,
a device which ensures that the needle will stop automatically
either in or out of the fabric as required |
In sewing machine,
a device which ensures that the needle will stop automatically
either in or out of the fabric as required |
| NEEDLE TRANSFER |
processes, operations |
In knitting, the
transfer of a double-headed latch needle from a slider
in one bed or cylinder to the slider in the bed or cylinder
opposite. |
In knitting, the
transfer of a double-headed latch needle from a slider
in one bed or cylinder to the slider in the bed or cylinder
opposite. |
| NEEDLE-RUN LACE |
fabrics |
Lace in which the
objects are formed or outlined by embroidering onto a
net or lace base. |
Lace in which the
objects are formed or outlined by embroidering onto a
net or lace base. |
| NEEDLEBONDED FABRIC |
fabrics |
Fabric in which
two or more webs of fibres are needled together. |
Fabric in which
two or more webs of fibres are needled together. A batt
of fibre is passed under, or between, barbed needles which
pass up and down through the batt locking the fibres together. |
| NEEDLEBONDING |
processes, operations |
See Needling. |
See Needling. |
| NEEDLECORD |
fabrics |
Lightweight corduroy
fabric usually cotton, with and very short pile and very
fine cords the length of the fabric, used for dresses. |
Lightweight corduroy
fabric usually cotton, with and very short pile and very
fine cords the length of the fabric, used for dresses.
Made in, can be printed. It may be plain piece dyed colors
or printed and is hardwearing and usually washable, with
one way pile. See also Corduroy. |
| NEEDLED FABRIC |
fabrics |
See Needle-bonded
fabric, Needlefelt |
See Needle-bonded
fabric, Needlefelt |
| NEEDLEFELT NEEDLE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Also called Felting
needle. |
Also called Felting
needle. A barbed needle mounted in a needle loom to cause
fibre reorientation and entanglement during needling. |
| NEEDLEFELTING |
processes, operations |
See Needling. |
See Needling. |
| NEEDLEIZING |
processes, operations |
A method of removing
properties of a cloth and its finish |
1. A method of
removing properties of a cloth and its finish in order
to make sewing easier (by overcoming resistance to the
needle).
The finish of a quaduga cloth.. |
| NEEDLELOOM |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
FOR NARROW FABRICS.
A shuttleless weaving machine in which the weft is drawn
from a stationary supply and introduced into the shed
in the form of a double-pick by a weft inserter needle. |
1. FOR NARROW FABRICS.
A shuttleless weaving machine in which the weft is drawn
from a stationary supply and introduced into the shed
in the form of a double-pick by a weft inserter needle.
The weft is retained at the opposite selvedge by the action
of knitting, or by the introduction of a locking thread
from a separate supply.
2. FOR NONWOVENS. A machine for producing needlefelt.
A needle beam reciprocates vertically at rates of upto2000
cycles/minute (33Hz). Felting needles are mounted in a
board at a density of 300-5000 per metre width and pass
through a web or batt, which is supported between bed
and stripper plates |
| NEEDLEPUNCHED |
processes, operations |
A method of constructing
a nonwoven fabric. Barbed needles are forced (punched)
through a thick web or fleece of fibres |
A method of constructing
a nonwoven fabric. Barbed needles are forced (punched)
through a thick web or fleece of fibres. When these barbed
needles are withdrawn, enough fibres are displaced or
entangled to constitute a nonwoven fabric, used for blankets,
outerwear, filters and papermaker's felts. See Needle
loom. |
| NEEDLEPUNCHED BATTING |
accessories |
A textile filling
material which is stabilized by mechanically entangling
the fibres. |
A textile filling
material which is stabilized by mechanically entangling
the fibres. |
| NEEDLEPUNCHING |
processes, operations |
See Needling |
See Needling |
| NEEDLEWORK |
processes, operations |
A general term
for work performed with a needle |
A general term
for work performed with a needle, such as embroidery,
knitting, some lace work, sewing. |
| NEEDLING |
processes, operations |
Also called Needlepunching,
Needlefelting, Needlebonding. |
Also called Needlepunching,
Needlefelting, Needlebonding. The use of barbed needles,
mounted in a needleloom, to entangle a fibre web or batt
by mechanical reorientation of some of the fibres within
its structure. |
| NEEEDLES PER UNIT
WIDTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
In tufted pile
yarn floor covering, the number of binding sites per unit
of floor covering width |
In tufted pile
yarn floor covering, the number of binding sites per unit
of floor covering width; needles being the means of inserting
the pile yarn into the backing fabric. |
| NEGATIVE BEAT-UP |
processes, operations |
An impulsive beat-up
system using a light reed and lay which are not positively
driven. |
An impulsive beat-up
system using a light reed and lay which are not positively
driven. |
| NEGATIVE SHEDDING |
processes, operations |
See Shedding. |
An operation in
which the movement of the healds or harness is controlled
in one direction only, the return movement being effected
by springs or weights. See Shedding. |
| NEGATIVE TAKE-UP |
processes, operations |
A take-up system
not positively driven |
A take-up system
not positively driven, often powered from the beat-up
mechanism. |
| NEOPRENE TREATED |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Application of
polychloroprene rubber compound on glass fibre, |
Application of
polychloroprene rubber compound on glass fibre, to improve
the stability, knot holding properties, and abrasion resistance
of the cord |
| NEP |
defects |
One or more fibres
occurring in a tightly tangled unorganized mass; a small
knot of entangled fi-bres in the yarn. |
1. One or more
fibres occurring in a tightly tangled unorganized mass;
a small knot of entangled fi-bres in the yarn. In the
case of cotton it usually comprises dead, tangled, immature
cotton hairs, and loose waste particles which more or
less roll into little balls as the stock is being processed.
2. Fabric defect. Nep specks appearing in fabric surface
is are very detrimental to most cotton fab-rics. (Compare
Pills.) |
| NEPP YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Knickerbocker
yarn |
See Knickerbocker
yarn |
| NEPPY YARN |
defects |
Yarn defect. A
yarn in which the incidence of neps occurs at a relatively
high level. |
Yarn defect. A
yarn in which the incidence of neps occurs at a relatively
high level. |
| NESTLING DOWN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A down not fully
developed with a sheath and with soft barbs emanating
from the sheath. |
A down not fully
developed with a sheath and with soft barbs emanating
from the sheath. |
| NESTLING FEATHERS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Immature feathers |
Immature feathers
in which the barbs are held together and covered by a
sheath. |
| NET |
fabrics |
An open-mesh fabric
in which a firm structure is ensured by some form of twist,
interlocking, or knitting of the yarn. |
An open-mesh fabric
in which a firm structure is ensured by some form of twist,
interlocking, or knitting of the yarn. It may be produced
by gauze weaving, knitting, or knotting, or on a lace
machine. Net may be made from cotton, viscose, nylon,
polyester and other fibres, according to its ultimate
use. Made in varying sizes of mesh and used for curtains,
dance dresses, veiling and trim-mings. See also Plain
net . |
| NET EMBROIDERY |
processes, operations |
Any type of needlework
(embroidery) done on a net ground. |
Any type of needlework
(embroidery) done on a net ground. |
| NET SILK |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
Also called Nett
silk. |
Also called Nett
silk.
1. YARN. Raw silk filaments or strands that have been
processed into yarns by twisting and folding or both,
as opposed to spun silk.
2. FABRIC. Fabrics produced from net silk yarn. |
| NETT SILK |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
See Net silk. |
See Net silk. |
| NETTING |
fabrics |
See Mesh. |
See Mesh. |
| NETTLE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A nautical term
for a small line made of two strands of rope yarn |
A nautical term
for a small line made of two strands of rope yarn. Nettles
are halves of yarns in the end of a rope twisted up for
printing. Also called 'Knittle' |
| NETTLE CLOTH |
fabrics |
See China- grass |
See China- grass |
| NETTLE FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A fine, short stem
fibre obtained from two species of the stinging nettle
Urtica dioica and Urtica urena |
A fine, short stem
fibre obtained from two species of the stinging nettle
Urtica dioica and Urtica urena, either by retting or decorticating. |
| NETURAL ROPE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A rope constructed
in the arrangement of the twists of its component plies
and final state |
A rope constructed
in the arrangement of the twists of its component plies
and final state so as to resist twisting or untwisting. |
| NEUTRAL DYEING
ACID DYE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
An acid dye which
has substantivity for wool, silk and polyamide, when applied
from a neutral bath. |
An acid dye which
has substantivity for wool, silk and polyamide, when applied
from a neutral bath. |
| NEUTRALIZE |
processes, operations |
To make either
an alkaline or an acid condition neutral. |
To make either
an alkaline or an acid condition neutral. |
| NEW FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Virgin fibre |
See Virgin fibre |
| NEW WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Virgin wool. |
See Virgin wool. |
| NEW ZEALAND FLAX |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Phormium tenax. |
See Phormium tenax. |
| NEW ZEALAND TWILLS |
fabrics |
A very coarse jute
fabric made in a two up, two down twill weave. |
A very coarse jute
fabric made in a two up, two down twill weave. Used for
bagging and other purposes |
| NEWAR |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A cotton tape made
on handlooms in India. |
A cotton tape made
on handlooms in India. Used for cots. |
| NIB |
defects |
A defect in raw
silk yarn |
A defect in raw
silk yarn consisting of small thickened places less than
1/9 inch long. Also spelled 'knibs' |
| NICKED SEVEDGE |
fabrics |
Small cut (nick)
made into the selvedge by the folding machine hooker. |
Small cut (nick)
made into the selvedge by the folding machine hooker. |
| NINON |
fabrics |
Sometimes called
Ttriple voile, is of plain weave and sheer. |
Sometimes called
Ttriple voile, is of plain weave and sheer. Usually viscose
or acetate but may be polyester. Should not be confused
with 'nylon', because of the similarity of its name. Used
mainly for sheer curtains. Fairly slippery. |
| NINTY-DAY-COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
An American cotton
that matures early. |
An American cotton
that matures early. It has a medium-sized boll and its
fibres are approximately ¾ inch long. |
| NIP |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
The line of contact
in the jaws of a tensile testing machine. |
1. The line or
area of contact or proximity between two contiguous surfaces
that move so as to compress and or control the velocity
of textile material passed between them.
2. The pressure area between two cylinders. In a padding
mangle, for instance, the cloth passes through the nip
to have excess liquid squeezed out.
3. The line of contact in the jaws of a tensile testing
machine.
3. The line of contact in the jaws of a tensile testing
machine.
4. See Station |
| NIP CRESES |
defects |
A defect occurring
regularly along a fabric selvedge following a nipping
operation such as padding or calendering. |
A defect occurring
regularly along a fabric selvedge following a nipping
operation such as padding or calendering. Caused by loosely
wound selvedge or improper let-off tension which allows
the fabric to gather or fold over at the selvedge before
it enters the nip of the rolls. |
| NIP ROLLER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
One or a pair of
rollers intended to run with their cylindrical surfaces
in contact or separated only by yarn or other textile
material. |
One or a pair of
rollers intended to run with their cylindrical surfaces
in contact or separated only by yarn or other textile
material. The two rollers are intended to have the same
surface speed and one normally drives the other by frictional
contact. |
| NITO |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A coarse fibre
similar to coir. |
A coarse fibre
similar to coir. |
| NITROCELLULOSE
RAYON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Rayon produced
by the cellulose nitrate process. |
Rayon produced
by the cellulose nitrate process. |
| NO IRON |
fabrics |
A fabric of either
100% man-made fibres or a blend of man-made and natural
fibres. |
A fabric of either
100% man-made fibres or a blend of man-made and natural
fibres. Resin treatment plus curing and heat pressing
may or may not be used. Texture is smooth and requires
no ironing or pressing after washing. Durable press refers
to a fabric treated with resin, followed by curing and
hot head pressing to set durable creases and pleats so
that no further pressing is ever needed. |
| NO IRON COTTON |
fabrics |
Cotton fabric finished
so as to require little or no ironing before wear and
after washing. |
Cotton fabric finished
so as to require little or no ironing before wear and
after washing. |
| NO-THROW |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A very soft silk
yarn composed of two or more untwisted singles twisted
together with the minimum amount of turns necessary |
A very soft silk
yarn composed of two or more untwisted singles twisted
together with the minimum amount of turns necessary to
bind the strands to prevent them from forming loops in
the yarn. |
| NOIL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Also called Baurette. |
Also called Baurette.
The comparatively very short fibres removed from longer
fibres of wool, silk, cotton, viscose, etc. by combing,
a preparatory process before spinning. These are sometimes
used in the manufacture of carded yarns. See also Silk
noil and Remanufactured Wool. |
| NOIL STRIPES |
fabrics |
Striped fabrics
made of cotton and silk or worsted noil. |
Striped fabrics
made of cotton and silk or worsted noil. The stripes are
formed by noil ends dyed in bright colours. Dyed black
cotton yarns are generally used in the rest of the warp
and in the weft. |
| NOMINAL GAUGE LENGTH |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In testing, the
length of a specimen under specpre-tension |
In testing, the
length of a specimen under specpre-tension, measured from
nip to nip of the jaws of the holding clamps in their
starting position |
| NON-AUTOMATIC LOOM |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A loom in which
empty shuttles are replaced by full ones by hand. |
A loom in which
empty shuttles are replaced by full ones by hand. |
| NON-CELLULOSIC
SYNTHETIC FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Man-made fibres
that are produced from chemical polymers other than cellulose. |
Man-made fibres
that are produced from chemical polymers other than cellulose.
Nylon, acrylic, modacrylic, polyester, olefin and spandex
are in this category. |
| NON-CHLORINE BLEACH |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A bleach that does
not release the hypochlorite ion in solution |
A bleach that does
not release the hypochlorite ion in solution, e.g. sodium
perborate, sodium percarbonate. |
| NON-CHLORINE RETENTIVE
FINISH |
processes, operations |
See Chlorine resistant
finish. |
See Chlorine resistant
finish. |
| NON-COMBUSTIBLE
TEXTILE |
fabrics |
A textile that
will neither ignite nor give off vapors that will ignite
when subjected to external sources of ignition. (Compare
Combustible textile.) |
A textile that
will neither ignite nor give off vapors that will ignite
when subjected to external sources of ignition. (Compare
Combustible textile.) |
| NON-CONFORMITY |
general |
An occurrence of
failing to satisfy the requirements of the applicable
specification |
An occurrence of
failing to satisfy the requirements of the applicable
specification; a condition that results in a nonconforming
item. |
| NON-CRUSHABLE LINEN |
fabrics |
A fabric with tightly
twisted weft, in plain weave, finished with a resin treatment
to give elasticity. Uses are similar to those of dress
linen. Launders easily, are wrinkle-resistant and durable. |
A fabric with tightly
twisted weft, in plain weave, finished with a resin treatment
to give elasticity. Uses are similar to those of dress
linen. Launders easily, are wrinkle-resistant and durable. |
| NON-ELASTIC ELONGATION
(NE) |
general |
Elongation of rope
which is not reclaimed after the strain is removed and
then reapplied immedi-ately. |
Elongation of rope
which is not reclaimed after the strain is removed and
then reapplied immedi-ately. |
| NON-FIBROUS MATTER |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Those oils, fats,
waxes, dressings, salts and other soluble materials, all
or some of which may be pre-sent in a fibre mixture. |
Those oils, fats,
waxes, dressings, salts and other soluble materials, all
or some of which may be present in a fibre mixture. |
| NON-FLAMMABLE TEXTILE |
fabrics |
Any combustible
textile that burns without a flame. |
Any combustible
textile that burns without a flame. See also Glow, Smouldering,
(Compare Flam-mable textile, Combustible textile, Non-combustible
textile.) |
| NON-INFLAMMABLE
TEXTILE |
fabrics |
Use preferred term
Non-flammable textile. |
Use preferred term
Non-flammable textile. |
| NON-LINT CONTENT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
That portion of
a mass of cotton fibre which is essentially foreign matter. |
That portion of
a mass of cotton fibre which is essentially foreign matter. |
| NON-PERMANENT FINISH |
processes, operations |
A finish that is
removed when subjected to such agents as friction, laundering,
light, heat. |
A finish that is
removed when subjected to such agents as friction, laundering,
light, heat. |
| NON-RECOVERABLE
DEFORMATION |
general |
See Permanent deformation. |
See Permanent deformation. |
| NON-RECOVERABLE
STRETCH |
general |
See Permanent deformation. |
See Permanent deformation. |
| NON-SEPARABLE ZIPPER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In zippers, a zipper
having two stringers that are permanently attached to
each other at either or both ends. |
In zippers, a zipper
having two stringers that are permanently attached to
each other at either or both ends. (Compare Separable
zipper.) |
| NON-SLIP FINISH |
processes, operations |
A finish applied
to a yarn to make it resistant to slipping and sliding
when in contact with another yarn. |
A finish applied
to a yarn to make it resistant to slipping and sliding
when in contact with another yarn. |
| NON-TEXTILE |
accessories |
General merchandise,
for use in clothing or home furnishings, that is not manufactured
from fibre. |
General merchandise,
for use in clothing or home furnishings, that is not manufactured
from fibre. |
| NON-THERMOPLASTIC |
general |
Not capable of
being softened by heat. |
Not capable of
being softened by heat. |
| NON-TORQUE YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A stretch yarn
that has no tendency to rotate when permitted to hang
freely. |
A stretch yarn
that has no tendency to rotate when permitted to hang
freely. See also Torque yarn. |
| NONSHRINK |
processes, operations |
See Shrinkage and
Shrunk finish. |
See Shrinkage and
Shrunk finish. |
| NONSHRINKABLE WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Wool treated chemically
to resist shrinkage |
Wool treated chemically
to resist shrinkage, especially felting shrinkage, by
partial destruction or masking of the scales of the fibre.
Various methods use chlorine or resin. See Chlorination
and Chlorinated wool. |
| NONWATERFOWL FEATHERS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Feathers derived
from chickens, turkeys, or other landfowl. |
Feathers derived
from chickens, turkeys, or other landfowl. Same as Landfowl
feathers. |
| NONWOVEN BLANKET |
fabrics |
See under Blanket. |
See under Blanket. |
| NONWOVEN FABRICS |
fabrics |
A textile structure
produced by bonding or interlocking of fibres, or both,
accomplished by mechanical, chemical, thermal, or solvent
means and combinations thereof. |
A textile structure
produced by bonding or interlocking of fibres, or both,
accomplished by mechanical, chemical, thermal, or solvent
means and combinations thereof. Any manufactured sheet
or web, of random fibre, held together by physical or
chemical means or both. A layer of threads ordered or
random laid, made of staple fibres made by either the
wet or dry process. The hardening is then effected either
mechanically or by means of a swelling or binding agent.
Excluded from this definition are woven, knitted, stitch-bonded,
felt and paper fabrics.
The fibres most commonly used for nonwovens are nylon,
polyester and viscose. There are several different methods
used for the formation of the web and a variety of ways
in which the fibres are compacted and held together to
become a nonwoven fabric which, dependent on the fibres
and pro-cesses used, can sometimes be washed for a limited
number of times and sometimes indefinitely be-fore showing
signs of breakdown. If made in 100% synthetic fibres which
have been heat-bonded by sophisticated methods they can
compete on equal terms with many woven and knitted fabrics.
In particular nonwovens made by 'lacing' arranging thousands
of fine filaments immediately after ex-trusion and allowing
them to set in this intermingled form, gives a strong
fabric which can be used for children's anoraks, protective
clothing, even book covers. However, most of the nonwovens
have low abrasion resistance compared with other textiles. |
| NORMAL |
fabrics |
A trade term for
knit goods, made of natural coloured cotton and wool mixed. |
A trade term for
knit goods, made of natural coloured cotton and wool mixed. |
| NORMAL FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Cotton
maturity |
See under Cotton
maturity |
| NORMAL MIXTURE |
fabrics |
A knit fabric made
of a mixture of cotton and wool in black and white combination. |
A knit fabric made
of a mixture of cotton and wool in black and white combination. |
| NOTATION |
processes, operations |
A shorthand system
used to express on a graph paper the stitch structure
employed in the fabric. |
A shorthand system
used to express on a graph paper the stitch structure
employed in the fabric. |
| NOTCHES |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Small cuts made
in the edges of garment parts which are used as guides
during garment assembly. |
Small cuts made
in the edges of garment parts which are used as guides
during garment assembly. See Balance marks. |
| NOTTINGHAM LACE |
fabrics |
Often used to describe
a flat, coarse lace used for curtains, bedspreads and
tablecloths. |
Often used to describe
a flat, coarse lace used for curtains, bedspreads and
tablecloths. But Nottingham being the home of the machine
lace industry, the word is also used to describe any lace
made on a Nottingham-type machine. |
| NOUÉ |
general |
A French term for
knotted. |
A French term for
knotted. |
| NOVEL TEXTILE DESIGN |
general |
Motif or pattern
never before represented pictorially as a textile design
in any part of the world |
Motif or pattern
never before represented pictorially as a textile design
in any part of the world; never has it been applied to
or has it been a part of any textile. |
| NOVELTY TWEED |
fabrics |
Description indicates
that the cloth is tweed-like, but it is not one of the
conventional tweeds that are easy to recognize. |
Description indicates
that the cloth is tweed-like, but it is not one of the
conventional tweeds that are easy to recognize. Usually
a cloth with some decoration or distinguishing feature. |
| NOVELTY WEAVE |
fabrics |
Any weave which
varies or combines the basic weaves, plain, satin and
twill. |
Any weave which
varies or combines the basic weaves, plain, satin and
twill. |
| NOVELTY YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Fancy yarn. |
See Fancy yarn. |
| NOVOLOID FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A manufactured
fibre containing at least 85 % by weight of a cross -linked
novolac. |
A manufactured
fibre containing at least 85 % by weight of a cross -linked
novolac. A novolac is a phenol-formaldehyde condensate
of low molecular weight made using an excess of phenol. |
| NOZZLE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
The spinneret or
jet used in producing man-made fibres. |
The spinneret or
jet used in producing man-made fibres. |
| NUAGE |
fabrics |
A French word meaning
cloud, mist, shadow, darkness, etc. |
A French word meaning
cloud, mist, shadow, darkness, etc. applied to fabrics
showing these effects in colour decoration. |
| NUB |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A small lump, knot
or speck in yarn or fabric. |
A small lump, knot
or speck in yarn or fabric. Sometimes a snarl or tangled
mass of fibres. Employed in knickerbocker and other types
of novelty yarn. Also called Slub. |
| NUB YARNS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Irregular yarns
containing enlarged segments (nubs) made by twisting one
end of yarn several times around another within a shorter
space. |
Irregular yarns
containing enlarged segments (nubs) made by twisting one
end of yarn several times around another within a shorter
space. Sometimes a binder yarn is used to hold the nub
in place. |
| NUMBER |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Yarn number,
Yarn numbering system. |
See Yarn number,
Yarn numbering system. |
| NUMBER OF TURNS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Stated in turns
per unit length. |
Stated in turns
per unit length. |
| NUN'S VEILING |
fabrics |
Fine, lightweight
plain-weave, plain colored, worsted or silk fabric, which
is very soft and thin. |
Fine, lightweight
plain-weave, plain colored, worsted or silk fabric, which
is very soft and thin. Now used for dresses, but was at
one time used only for religious gowns. Originally dyed
only black, brown or gray, but as a dress fabric it is
produced in fashion colours. Used for dresses, blouses,
nightwear. A warm, soft, attractive fabric that drapes
and gathers well. |
| NURSE'S CLOTH |
fabrics |
A coloured, woven,
plain, matt or twill fabric, mainly in stripes of blue
and white, having 27x20 threads per cm with 25 tex cotton
warp and weft. |
A coloured, woven,
|
