| LABEL CLOTH |
fabrics |
A heavily, but
flexibly, filled fabric, used for labels and tags. |
A heavily, but
flexibly, filled fabric, used for labels and tags. |
| LABEL, CARE |
accessories |
See Care label |
See Care label |
| LABORATORY DIP |
processes, operations |
A laboratory dyeing,
usually to develop a dye formula. |
A laboratory dyeing,
usually to develop a dye formula. |
| LABORATORY SAMPLE |
general |
A portion of material
taken to represent the lot sample |
A portion of material
taken to represent the lot sample, or the original material,
and used in the laboratory as a source of test specimens. |
| LAC DYE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A fairly fast orange
crimson natural dyestuff of the same class as cochineal,
obtained from 'Coccus lacca' |
A fairly fast orange
crimson natural dyestuff of the same class as cochineal,
obtained from 'Coccus lacca'. The insect lives on the
twigs of certain trees, covered with a resinous encrustation,
which is extracted with water to obtain the dye |
| LACE |
fabrics |
A fabric consisting
of sets of threads, some of which are twisted round the
others at intervals, thus producing 'holes' as patterning. |
A fabric consisting
of sets of threads, some of which are twisted round the
others at intervals, thus producing 'holes' as patterning.
Open-work fabrics of various construction and elaborate
designs, with a ground of mesh or net on which patterns
may be worked at the same time as the ground is formed
or applied later, and which is made of yarn by looping,
twisting, or knitting, either by hand with a needle or
bobbin, or by ma-chinery. Also a similar fabric may be
made by crocheting, tatting, darning, embroidering, weaving,
or knitting.
Any fibre may be used but the most common are now nylon,
viscose and cotton. Made as edgings as well as wide-width
fabric, it is with few exceptions, machine-made. There
has been a great revival in hand-made bobbin or pillow
lace, but as a leisure-time craft interest, not for commercial
pur-poses. Narrow lace is used flat, pleated or gathered
as decoration; wide lace is used for lingerie, nightwear,
formal dresses, such as wedding outfits; cheaper varieties
are used as curtains and bed-spreads. Lace often has an
underlay, either matching or contrasting.
There are many types of lace with different descriptive
names, often taken from the area in which they were first
developed. |
| LACE EFFECT |
fabrics |
A broad term for
novelty fabrics with open, lacy effects |
A broad term for
novelty fabrics with open, lacy effects produced by leno
weaves, machine embroidery on sheer ground, mock leno
effects. |
| LACE FURNISHING
MACHINE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See under Lace
machines. |
See under Lace
machines. |
| LACE MACHINES |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Bar warp machine,
Barmen machine...etc |
Bar warp machine:
A warp lace machine in which the pattern control is similar
to that of a Leavers machine.
Barmen machine: A braiding machine in which threads on
king bobbins placed on carriers are plaited with each
other, and sometimes with warp threads. A jacquard controls
the paths of the car-riers in accordance with the requirements
of the pattern.
Bobbinet machine: Also called Plain net machine. A machine
in which threads in brass bobbins borne in carriages,
in pairs in tandem in each comb space, swing in pendulum
fashion between ver-tical warp threads in planes at right
angles to the warp sheet and progressively traverse across
the whole width of the machine and return.
Curtain machine: Also called Lace furnishing machine.
A machine in which threads in brass bob-bins borne in
carriages, each in an allotted comb space, swing in pendulum
fashion between vertical warp and pattern threads in planes
at right angles to a warp sheet. The lateral movements
of the warp and pattern threads are imparted by guide
bars. By interaction of a jack bar and a jacquard, spring-steel
jacks modify the lateral movements of selected warp and
pattern threads in accordance with the requirements of
the pattern.
Double locker machine: A plain net machine in which the
motion of the carriages is imparted by driving and locker
bars.
Go-through machine: A Leavers type of machine, in which
the catch bars impart motion to the car-riages.
Lace furnishing machine: See Curtain machine, above.
Leavers machine: A machine in which threads in brass bobbins
borne in carriages, each in an allot-ted comb space, swing
in pendulum fashion between vertical warp and pattern
threads in planes at right angles to a warp sheet. The
lateral movements of the warp and pattern threads are
imparted by steel bars, actuated by a jacquard.
Mechlin machine: A Leavers type of machine without a jacquard
that employs a limited number of guide bars, whose movements
are controlled by cams. It is used for making a special
type of net called 'mechlin'.
Plain net machine: See Curtain machine, above.
Roller rocker machine: Also called Rolling rocker machine.
A plain net machine in which the mo-tion of the carriages
is imparted by fluted rollers.
Rolling rocker machine: See Roller Rocker machine, above.
Sival machine: A Leavers type of machine, differing from
the standard version in that the frame and the catch-bar
and point-bar linkages are similar to those of the furnishing
machine. Its pattern-ing principle is the same as that
of the Leavers machine, and the lace produced is of the
Leavers type.
String warp machine: A warp lace machine in which the
pattern control is similar to that of the furnishing machine.
The jacks work between the guide bars and needles.
Warp lace machine: A machine on which the ground threads
are looped and are taken from warp beams. The pattern
threads are laid in and secured by the ground threads. |
| LACE QUALITY |
fabrics |
A quantitative
measure of the rate of take-up (and thus the comparative
warp-way) of lace in the machine. |
A quantitative
measure of the rate of take-up (and thus the comparative
warp-way) of lace in the machine.
The finished quality of lace and net differs from the
quality in the machine state owing to dimen-sional changes
introduced in dressing. The finished quality of plain
net is traditionally expressed as the sum of the Hole
count per inch warp-way and the hole count per inch bobbin-way. |
| LACE SPRIG |
fabrics |
A portion of a
lace appliquéd to a net ground |
A portion of a
lace appliquéd to a net ground |
| LACE STITCH |
fabrics |
In weft knitting.
An open-work effect |
In weft knitting.
An open-work effect (in plain-knitted fabric) produced
by transferring needle loops to an adjacent needle of
the same needle bar. |
| LACE YARNS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Smooth ply cotton
yarns generally produced in the range of 60's to 24o's
counts; generally hard twisted and gassed. |
Smooth ply cotton
yarns generally produced in the range of 60's to 24o's
counts; generally hard twisted and gassed. Made of good
quality combed cotton. Mostly Egyptian, prima or Sea Island
cotton are used. |
| LACET |
accessories |
A braided or woven
narrow fabric, flat or tubular |
A braided or woven
narrow fabric, flat or tubular, often cut into length
and tagged for use as shoelaces and corset-laces. |
| LACING |
processes, operations |
See under Leasing. |
See under Leasing. |
| LACING CORD |
accessories |
See under Cable
cord. |
See under Cable
cord. |
| LACQUER FINISH |
processes, operations |
A chemical process
forming a thin, smooth, highly glazed film on the surface
of the cloth; it may be applied in patterns. |
A chemical process
forming a thin, smooth, highly glazed film on the surface
of the cloth; it may be applied in patterns. Among the
materials used are cellulose acetate, synthetic resins. |
| LACQUER PRINT |
processes, operations |
Lacquer is used
to bind pigments to a fabric. |
Lacquer is used
to bind pigments to a fabric. The continuous film formed
also sticks the fibres together and the fabric has a stiff
hand; the usefulness is therefore limited. |
| LADDEER BRAID |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Also called 'Lattice
braid' |
Also called 'Lattice
braid'. An open-work braid which, in appearance, suggests
a ladder. Used for laces and trimmings. |
| LADDEER STITCH |
general |
An embroidery stitch. |
An embroidery stitch.
The threads are arranged in a way to simulate the rungs
of a ladder. |
| LADDER |
defects |
Fabric defect.
A wale or several consecutive wales in a weft-knitted
fabric in which the loop formation has collapsed into
straight lengths of yarn. |
Fabric defect.
A wale or several consecutive wales in a weft-knitted
fabric in which the loop formation has collapsed into
straight lengths of yarn. The defect is caused by the
breakdown of a stitch that, when the fabric is subsequently
subjected to tension, permits the de-knitting of the stitches
in the same wale or wales within previous courses. See
also Run |
| LADDER WEB |
accessories |
A four-ply woven
narrow fabric, A crochet or warp-knitted narrow fabric |
1. A four-ply woven
narrow fabric consisting of two outer or body webs between
which are woven two narrow webs in staggered relationship
with each other, each being woven alternately into one
end and then the outer or body web, so as to form, when
opened up, supports for the slats of a Vene-tian blind.
2. A crochet or warp-knitted narrow fabric, consisting
of two wales, or columns of stitches spaced apart by the
width of the slat of a venetian blind. Weft yarns cross
from one wale to the other to form a ladder-like structure
which separates and positions the slats of the blind.
Knitted web is usu-ally made from polyester yarn and heat
set after manufacture. |
| LAHORE |
fabrics |
A piece-dyed dress
fabric made from cashmere in small dobby effects. |
A piece-dyed dress
fabric made from cashmere in small dobby effects. |
| LAID FABRIC |
fabrics |
A fabric made without
weft yarn |
A fabric made without
weft yarn, the parallel warp yarns being held together
by means of rubber latex or other binding material |
| LAID ROPE |
accessories |
See under Rope |
See under Rope |
| LAID-IN FABRIC,
WARP-KNITTED |
fabrics |
A fabric containing
one or more series of warp threads held into the ground
construction by being trapped between the face loops and
the underlaps of the ground construction. |
A fabric containing
one or more series of warp threads held into the ground
construction by being trapped between the face loops and
the underlaps of the ground construction. The laid-in
yarn is connected to the ground construction by an underlap
on each wale that it crosses. |
| LAID-IN FABRIC,
WEFT-KNITTED |
fabrics |
A fabric containing
non-knitted yarns, which are held in position by the knitted
structure. |
A fabric containing
non-knitted yarns, which are held in position by the knitted
structure. These fabrics are frequently raised to produce
a pile effect, e.g. fleecy fabrics. |
| LAID-PILE FINISH |
processes, operations |
See Drawn-pile
finish. |
See Drawn-pile
finish. |
| LAKE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In textile field
this is the principle of mordant dyeing and printing. |
An insoluble pigment
obtained by precipitating various natural and artificial
colouring matters on to a suitable base in the presence
of alum or salts of magnesium, zinc, tin, etc. In textile
field this is the principle of mordant dyeing and printing. |
| LAMB'S WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Soft resilient
wool shorn from lambs up to seven months old. |
Soft resilient
wool shorn from lambs up to seven months old. Yarns from
lambswool are used for knitwear and, in small amounts,
mixed with other fibres in fabrics. Anything containing
lambswool has a characteristic soft feel that makes it
comfortable to the wearer. |
| LAMBREQUIN |
fabrics |
A decorative fabric |
A decorative fabric
that may be hung from a shelf or casing for concealing
unsightly walls and curtain fixtures |
| LAMBSDOWN |
fabrics |
A plaited knitted
fabric made of soft twist woollen yarn and hard twist
cotton yarn. |
A plaited knitted
fabric made of soft twist woollen yarn and hard twist
cotton yarn. The woollen yarn appears on the face, which
is given a heavy, spongy napped finish; the cotton yarn
appears on the back. Used for children's coats, blanketing,
robes. |
| LAMBSKIN CLOTH |
fabrics |
A cotton fabric
having a high weft sett, with dense nap of fibre on the
surface. |
A cotton fabric
having a high weft sett, with dense nap of fibre on the
surface. The weave is of a weft-sateen character of the
fustain type |
| LAMÈ |
fabrics |
Any fabric containing
metal yarns. The metal may be added as decoration or it
may exist as the warp or weft thread. |
Any fabric containing
metal yarns. The metal may be added as decoration or it
may exist as the warp or weft thread. The main fabric
can be silk, viscose, acetate, triacetate, nylon, or polyester,
and the weave is usually plain. The fabrics are thin and
drape well. Used for evening dresses, capes, boleros,
and fancy dress. Requires lining. A one-way fabric. See
also Lame jersey. |
| LAMÈ JERSEY |
fabrics |
Knitted fabric,
usually acetate, viscose or polyester, with metallic yarn
included as an extra thread in the knitting. |
Knitted fabric,
usually acetate, viscose or polyester, with metallic yarn
included as an extra thread in the knitting. It is a one-way
fabric, with a light silver or gold (or coloured) effect
one way, but when held up the other way less shine will
be visible and more of the basic colour. Usually lightweight
and often almost transparent. Very soft and drapes beautifully
for eveningwear. |
| LAMINATED FABRIC |
fabrics |
A layered fabric
structure, wherein a face or outer fabric is joined to
a continuous sheet material, such as polyurethane foam |
A layered fabric
structure, wherein a face or outer fabric is joined to
a continuous sheet material, such as polyurethane foam,
in such a way that the identity of the continuous sheet
material is retained, either by the flame method or by
an adhesive, and this in turn normally, but not always,
is joined on the back with a backing fabric such as tricot.
The fabrics are not hardwearing, nor are they very warm,
but the foam adds body to the fabric. Used for children's
clothes, women's jackets and trousers and inexpensive
coats. Slightly springy, but easy to handle. See also
Bonded fabric. |
| LAMINATES |
fabrics |
See Laminated fabric. |
See Laminated fabric. |
| LAMPAS |
fabrics |
A fabric similar
to brocade, originally an Indian printed silk, but now
a woven fabric with a rep ground and a satin-like pattern
formed by the warp yarns. |
A fabric similar
to brocade, originally an Indian printed silk, but now
a woven fabric with a rep ground and a satin-like pattern
formed by the warp yarns. A contrasting effect is achieved,
too, with the weft yarns so that the same colour appears
in the pattern as in the background. Very elaborate designs
are produced. It is a heavy fabric, usually made now of
cotton, viscose, acrylic or mixtures. Used for curtains
and furnishings. In some cases the wrong side is often
attractive enough not to need lining. |
| LAMPWICK |
accessories |
See Wick |
See Wick |
| LANA FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A lustrous seed
hair obtained from a species of bombax tree cotton |
A lustrous seed
hair obtained from a species of bombax tree cotton in
Venezuela and Puerto Rico. Used for stuffing. |
| LANCÉ |
fabrics |
A term applied
to fabrics in which the weft threads interlace with only
a few warp threads at intervals across the fabric |
A term applied
to fabrics in which the weft threads interlace with only
a few warp threads at intervals across the fabric, and
float over or under the rest to produce tiny dots or specks
on the ground. |
| LANGLEY |
general |
Unit of energy
received by sample being tested for light fastness or
strength loss |
Unit of energy
received by sample being tested for light fastness or
strength loss either in sunlight or the Fade-o-meter |
| LANOLIN |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A complex chemical
substance, fatty in nature and chiefly a mixture of cholesterol
esters obtained from grease wool. |
A complex chemical
substance, fatty in nature and chiefly a mixture of cholesterol
esters obtained from grease wool. It serves as an emollient
for the skin of the sheep and for its fleece. Purified
sheep grease under the name of lanolin or lanolin serves
as the basis for grease paints, ointments, and skin creams. |
| LANSDOWN |
fabrics |
A lightweight,
soft, fine dress fabric woven with a silk warp |
A lightweight,
soft, fine dress fabric woven with a silk warp, which
appears on the face, and worsted or cotton filling, which
shows on the back, in a two up, one down twill. |
| LAP |
general, fibers,
filaments, yarns, fabrics, processes, operations |
A sheet of fibres
or fabric wrapped around a core with specific applications
in different sections of the industry |
1. GENERAL. A sheet
of fibres or fabric wrapped around a core with specific
applications in different sections of the industry, e.g.
sheets of fibre wound on rollers or round endless aprons
to facilitate transfer from one process to the next.
2. IN SILK. Silk waste after discharging and combing,
but before processing into sliver or top.
3. IN FABRIC.
(a) The length of fabric between successive transverse
folds when pieces are plaited down or folded.
(b) An individual layer of fabric in roll form.
4. IN WARP-KNITTING. Descriptive of the wrapping of the
yarn around the needle. The term is some-times used synonymously
for 'overlap'. See also Lapping movement |
| LAP WASTE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Waste of long fibres,
formed in drawing and spinning processes |
Waste of long fibres,
formed in drawing and spinning processes by the breaking
of the ends between the front rollers and the bobbins. |
| LAP-FELLED SEAM |
general |
A seam formed with
the edges of both plies of fabric concealed by inter-lapping. |
A seam formed with
the edges of both plies of fabric concealed by inter-lapping.
Two or more rows of stitches secure the turned pieces
of fabric. |
| LAPEL |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The upper part
of the front edge of a jacket or coat which folds back
on to the forepart. |
The upper part
of the front edge of a jacket or coat which folds back
on to the forepart. The length of the lapel extends from
the gorge seam to the back. |
| LAPEL ROLL |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The fall and curl
of the lapel downwards from the break seam of the collar
to the first button. |
The fall and curl
of the lapel downwards from the break seam of the collar
to the first button. The term 'roll' will apply mostly
to a soft finish lapel, not one which is pressed almost
flat on the crease line. |
| LAPPED |
processes, operations |
See Cuttled. |
See Cuttled. |
| LAPPED APPLICATION |
accessories |
A method of zipper
application, in which only one fabric flap covers the
zipper and there is only one row of stitching to the left
of the seamline. |
A method of zipper
application, in which only one fabric flap covers the
zipper and there is only one row of stitching to the left
of the seamline. This type of application is common on
left-side openings of skirts and pants. |
| LAPPED SEAM |
general |
A complex seam
formed on the inside of the object with neither raw edge
enclosed, and having one visible line of topstitching
on the face side and a small fold formed by the topstitching. |
A complex seam
formed on the inside of the object with neither raw edge
enclosed, and having one visible line of topstitching
on the face side and a small fold formed by the topstitching.
A lapped seam is made by (1) machine basting the face
sides of the fabric together on the 15 mm seamline, (2)
pressing both seam allowances to one side, (3) clipping
the basting stitches every four to five stitches to facilitate
later thread removal (4) basting the seam allowances in
place to one side to avoid movement during the topstitching
step, (5) topstitching through the fabric and both seam
allowances 1 to 2 mm from the fold, and (6) removing both
machine bastings. (Compare Tucked seam.) |
| LAPPET |
fabrics, apparatus,
equipage, tools |
See Ballooning
eye. |
1. A figure produced
on fabric by means of extra warps, using a special form
of loom.
2. See Ballooning eye. |
| LAPPET WEAVE |
fabrics |
Type of weave in
which floating threads are carried on the surface of the
fabric and introduced at intervals to form the pattern. |
Type of weave in
which floating threads are carried on the surface of the
fabric and introduced at intervals to form the pattern.
The floats are not long and the patterns are usually geometric,
i.e. zigzag stripes in white yarn on a coloured plain-weave
ground. The technique can also be introduced to form woven
spots. In this case, the floating yarns between spots
are cut. Almost any fibre or mixture of fibres can be
used. |
| LAPPING |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Specially woven
fabric is wound about eight or ten times round the central
pressure bowl of a textile-printing machine to ensure
resilience. |
Specially woven
fabric is wound about eight or ten times round the central
pressure bowl of a textile-printing machine to ensure
resilience. |
| LAPPING MOVEMENT |
processes, operations |
The compound motion
of the guide bars of warp-knitting machines that presents
the threads to the needles so that loops can be formed |
The compound motion
of the guide bars of warp-knitting machines that presents
the threads to the needles so that loops can be formed.
This compound motion consists in swinging motions of the
guides at right angles to the needle bar, and lateral
movements parallel to the needle bar. See also Overlap
and Underlap |
| LARVA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Stage of a silkworm's
life when hatched from the egg. |
Stage of a silkworm's
life when hatched from the egg. It is immature, wingless,
and wormlike; growth in size and development change the
larva into the chrysalis stage. |
| LASER CLOTH INSPECTOR |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A device that can
scan grey fabric (up to 64 inches wide) rapidly at speeds
up to 250 yards per minute |
A device that can
scan grey fabric (up to 64 inches wide) rapidly at speeds
up to 250 yards per minute |
| LASH-IN |
defects |
See Jerk-in |
See Jerk-in |
| LASHED PILE |
fabrics |
A filling pile
with each pile pick interwoven with three ends to bind
it securely. |
A filling pile
with each pile pick interwoven with three ends to bind
it securely. Also called 'fast pile'. |
| LASHING |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The fastening of
the inside seams of coat edgings or facings to the outer
fabric or interlining, in order to hold them in position. |
The fastening of
the inside seams of coat edgings or facings to the outer
fabric or interlining, in order to hold them in position.
Usually sewn by a blind stitch machine. |
| LASTING |
fabrics |
A very stout, closely
woven fabric made from hard-twisted yarns. |
A very stout, closely
woven fabric made from hard-twisted yarns. A 'worsted
lasting', which is mainly used for protective clothing,
is usually a seven-shaft weave. A 'cotton lasting', which
may be of sateen or weft-faced twill weave, is used chiefly
for shoe tops and bag linings. |
| LASTRILE FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Rubber-2 under
Rubber |
See Rubber-2 under
Rubber |
| LATCH NEEDLE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See under Needle |
See under Needle |
| LATENT CRIMP |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A crimp that is
potentially present in specially prepared fibres or filaments
and that can be developed by a specific treatment such
as thermal relaxation or tensioning and subsequent relaxation. |
A crimp that is
potentially present in specially prepared fibres or filaments
and that can be developed by a specific treatment such
as thermal relaxation or tensioning and subsequent relaxation.
Yarns or staple are specially prepared to crimp when subjected
to certain, specific conditions such as wet processing
or tumbling in a heated chamber. |
| LATERAL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A descriptive term
for a textile fibre composed of two or more polymers |
A descriptive term
for a textile fibre composed of two or more polymers at
least two of which have a continuous longitudinal external
surface. |
| LATERAL HOLDING
STRENGTH |
accessories |
The force required
to disengage a snap fastener |
The force required
to disengage a snap fastener resulting from a pull in
the plane parallel to the material to which the snap fastener
is attached. |
| LATERAL LEAKGE |
processes, operations |
The passage of
gases along or through the textile element of a coated
fabric |
The passage of
gases along or through the textile element of a coated
fabric or along interstices formed by the textile element
and the coating polymer of a coated fabric. |
| LATEX |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The milky juice
found in certain plants, which is the raw material from
which rubber is made. |
The milky juice
found in certain plants, which is the raw material from
which rubber is made. It is made into stretch yarns with
a variety of names, and incorporated into various fabrics
to make corsetry, swimwear, ski-wear, lace and elastic |
| LATTICE BRAID |
fabrics |
See Ladder braid. |
See Ladder braid. |
| LAUNDER-O-METER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
The standard laboratory
device for testing a fabric's colourfastness |
The standard laboratory
device for testing a fabric's colourfastness to, and shrinkage
in, washing and dry cleaning. Also used to test other
laundry problems. |
| LAUNDER-PROOF |
fabrics, garments,
made-ups, assemblies |
Fabrics and garments
which have been laboratory tested to withstand laundering |
Fabrics and garments
which have been laboratory tested to withstand laundering
with no colour lose and shrinkage under normal washing
conditions and length of time. |
| LAUNDERING |
processes, operations |
A process intended
to remove soils and/or stains by treatment (washing) with
an aqueous detergent solution and normally including subsequent
rinsing, extracting and drying. |
A process intended
to remove soils and/or stains by treatment (washing) with
an aqueous detergent solution and normally including subsequent
rinsing, extracting and drying. A process used to refurbish
a textile product or parts thereof by: (a) cleaning it
in water containing a cleaning agent, and possibly bleach,
(b) drying it, and (c) usually, ironing or pressing it. |
| LAUNDRY DUCK |
fabrics |
A wide army duck
fabric |
A wide army duck
fabric specially constructed for covering rolls in mangles
and other laundry machines. |
| LAUNDRY-TESTED |
fabrics, garments,
made-ups, assemblies |
Fabrics and garments
which have passed certain tests for colour fastness to
washing |
Fabrics and garments
which have passed certain tests for colour fastness to
washing, sun, gas and perspiration; tensile strength;
dimensional stability; construction, etc. |
| LAWN |
fabrics |
Very fine smooth
plain weave fabric originally made from linen, but more
commonly from cotton and now also featured in man-made
fibres. |
Very fine smooth
plain weave fabric originally made from linen, but more
commonly from cotton and now also featured in man-made
fibres. May be plain or printed, and has a slightly stiff
finish which may be permanent. Very cool and absorbent
and hardwearing. Used for baby clothes, blouses, and nightwear.
Creases easily. Ordinarily lawn is too closely woven to
be 'sheer' but lawns made from synthetic man-made fibres
have a tendency to be sheer. Lawn and cambric have similarities
because both are fine fabrics but lawn is usually more
closely woven and stiffer in handle than cambric. See
Handkerchief linen. |
| LAWN FINISH |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A light-starch
finish applied to lawn and other fine-yarn plain fabrics |
A light-starch
finish applied to lawn and other fine-yarn plain fabrics
to give a crisp finished material. |
| LAY |
fabrics, accessories |
A build up of
two or more layers of fabric in identical lengths so that
they can be cut collectively into garment portions. |
1. A build up of
two or more layers of fabric in identical lengths so that
they can be cut collectively into garment portions. The
dimensions of the lay in respect of number of layers and
length are pre-determined, as is the layout of the garment
pieces on the upper surface of the lay.
2. In cordage, to twist two or more components about each
other to form a helix about the axis of the resulting
laid product which may be a strand or rope. The direction
of lay is described as 'S' and 'Z' (see Direction of twist). |
| LAY LENGTH |
accessories |
The pitch of one
complete turn of a yarn in a strand or of a strand in
a rope |
The pitch of one
complete turn of a yarn in a strand or of a strand in
a rope measured in a straight line parallel to the axis
of the strand or rope. |
| LAY MARKER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Marker. |
See Marker. |
| LAY PINS |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Thin steel pins
about 10-15 cm. long with large heads. |
Thin steel pins
about 10-15 cm. long with large heads. They are pushed
through the waste parts of fabric lays to hold them firm
for cutting. Mostly used on quilted fabrics. |
| LAY PLANNING |
processes, operations |
The arranging of
patterns of the component parts of a garment |
The arranging of
patterns of the component parts of a garment within a
given width of fabric in order to obtain the most economical
use of the material. Also called 'layout planning'. |
| LAYING UP |
processes, operations |
The act of building
the lay from rolls or piles of fabric |
The act of building
the lay from rolls or piles of fabric. Same as Spreading. |
| LAYOUT PLANNING |
processes, operations |
See Lay planning |
See Lay planning |
| LAZY-DAISY-STITCH |
general |
Long, detached
chain stitches grouped to form a daisy pattern. |
Long, detached
chain stitches grouped to form a daisy pattern. An embroidery
stitch. |
| LCSP |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Lea count-strength
product. |
See Lea count-strength
product. |
| LEA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A unit length used
to determine the linear density of various yarns, usually
a predetermined fraction of a hank for a specific yarn
number system: |
A unit length used
to determine the linear density of various yarns, usually
a predetermined fraction of a hank for a specific yarn
number system:
1. IN COTTON, the number of 120 yard lengths of yarn per
pound; an indirect yarn numbering sys-tem.
2. IN WORSTED, the number of 80 yard lengths of yarn per
pound; an indirect yarn numbering sys-tem.
3. IN LINEN, the number of 300 yard lengths of yarn per
pound; an indirect yarn numbering system |
| LEA COUNT-STRENGTH
PRODUCT |
general |
Also called CSP,
Break factor. |
Also called CSP,
Break factor. The product of the lea strength, and the
actual count, of cotton yarn. |
| LEA SKEIN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A skein, of length
and circumference specified for the specific yarn numbering
system involved |
A skein, of length
and circumference specified for the specific yarn numbering
system involved, commonly used to determine the linear
density and the strength of yarns. |
| LEACHING |
processes, operations |
Percolating action
of a suitable liquid to remove any substance |
Percolating action
of a suitable liquid to remove any substance |
| LEADER FABRIC |
fabrics |
A length of fabric
used in finishing or dyeing processes to lead goods through
a machine, and generally left ready for attachment to
a further place when necessary. |
A length of fabric
used in finishing or dyeing processes to lead goods through
a machine, and generally left ready for attachment to
a further place when necessary. A leader cloth is often
called an'end-fent' and its use enables a piece to be
finished from end to end substantially without waste.
See also End-fent |
| LEADER MARK |
defects |
See Decating mark. |
See Decating mark. |
| LEAF |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Same as 'harness'. |
Same as 'harness'.
A three-leaf twill fabric, is a twill made by using three
harnesses on the loom. |
| LEAF EDGE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The outer or fall
edge of the collar. |
The outer or fall
edge of the collar. |
| LEAF FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Also called Hard
fibre |
Also called Hard
fibre. Derived from the hard coarse leaves of dicotyledonous
plants such as abaca. |
| LEAFY COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A ginned cotton
which contains a large amount of small leaf matter. |
A ginned cotton
which contains a large amount of small leaf matter. |
| LEASE |
processes, operations |
The arrangement
of warp yarns to maintain the same relative position. |
The arrangement
of warp yarns to maintain the same relative position.
This is done generally by criss-crossing alternately,
keeping them in position by two rods, called lease rods. |
| LEASE BANDS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
. Bands laid across
a warp being wound onto a beam |
1. Bands laid across
a warp being wound onto a beam to make later handling
easier.
2. Bands laid across a yarn-hank being reeled to make
later handling easier. |
| LEASING |
processes, operations |
The operation of
inserting a crossed traverse lease-cord in wraps of yarn
on a reel for the purpose of preventing tangling of yarn
during processing, e.g. in hank dyeing, leasing is employed
to facili-tate subsequent winding of a yarn package from
the hank supply. |
1. The operation
of inserting a crossed traverse lease-cord in wraps of
yarn on a reel for the purpose of preventing tangling
of yarn during processing, e.g. in hank dyeing, leasing
is employed to facili-tate subsequent winding of a yarn
package from the hank supply. The leasing cords are removed
from the dyed hanks immediately before the 'hank to cone/cheese
winding' operation. In the case of silk yarns, this operation
is termed 'lacing' and 'halching'. The term halching is
used when the lease-cord is coloured differently from
the yarn.
2. Leasing is also used for the purpose of separating
wraps of yarn on a reel into groups of specific numbers,
as per requirement. |
| LEATHER CLOTH |
fabrics |
A coated fabric
which is embossed to give a leather-like appearance |
A coated fabric
which is embossed to give a leather-like appearance |
| LEATHER FIBRE,
GROUND |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Waste leather ground
into a fibrous state |
Waste leather ground
into a fibrous state; plastic resin is used so the material
can be formed to appear like real leather. |
| LEATHERETTE |
fabrics |
Coated fabrics
which suggest leather. |
Coated fabrics
which suggest leather. The material is coloured, finished
and embossed to simulate leather grains and qualities.
It is considered a misnomer. |
| LEATHERI |
fabrics |
The hide or skin
of animals |
The hide or skin
of animals. Thickness and type varies according to its
source. There is a variety of types and these are listed
under the appropriate name. Handling is the same for all
types of leather. Leathers are all skin-shaped as they
come from the animal, so they vary in size |
| LEAVERS LACE |
fabrics |
Trade name which
has developed into a generic term |
Trade name which
has developed into a generic term for describing laces
made on a Leavers machine |
| LEAVERS MACHINE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See under Lace
machines. |
See under Lace
machines. |
| LEFT TWIST |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Same as 'S' twist. |
Same as 'S' twist.
See under Direction of twist. |
| LEFT-HAND TWILL |
fabrics |
See under Lace
machines. |
See under Lace
machines. |
| LEGS |
fabrics, apparatus,
equipage, tools |
See Sides under
Knitted loop. |
1. See Sides under
Knitted loop.
2. In zippers, the two portions of a separate element
that affix the element to the bead. |
| LEICESTER WOOLS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Lincoln, Cotswold,
Romney Marsh, Cheviot wools, etc., spoken of as long crossbreeds,
and now raised throughout the world, come in this group. |
Lincoln, Cotswold,
Romney Marsh, Cheviot wools, etc., spoken of as long crossbreeds,
and now raised throughout the world, come in this group.
The fibre length ranges from 4 to 16 inches, while the
fibre diameter is from 1/700 inch to 1/950 inch; there
are 800 to 1,000 serrations per inch in the fibres. These
hardy and lustrous wools, which have the tendency to reflect
light rays, are used in homespun, tweeds, cheviot, and
Shetland fabrics for outerwear. |
| LENGTH GROUP |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
All fibres, or
pulls, whose lengths fall within a given length interval. |
All fibres, or
pulls, whose lengths fall within a given length interval. |
| LENGTH INTERVAL |
general |
A class interval
of 1/8 in. (3 mm), usually designated by its midpoint
length in odd-numbered sixteenths of an inch. |
A class interval
of 1/8 in. (3 mm), usually designated by its midpoint
length in odd-numbered sixteenths of an inch. |
| LENGTH OF LAY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
In cords and strands,
the actual distance required to make one 360° revolution
in any element in a strand or cord. |
In cords and strands,
the actual distance required to make one 360° revolution
in any element in a strand or cord. |
| LENGTH, BENDING |
fabrics |
See Bending length. |
See Bending length. |
| LENGTHWISE DIRECTION |
fabrics |
The direction in
a machine-made fabric parallel to the direction of movement
the fabric followed in the manufacturing machine. |
The direction in
a machine-made fabric parallel to the direction of movement
the fabric followed in the manufacturing machine. |
| LENO CRÊPON |
fabrics |
Comprising a cotton
crêpon background cloth with leno-weave style embroidery. |
Comprising a cotton
crêpon background cloth with leno-weave style embroidery.
It may be white or in a contrasting colour and is usually
worked in striped formation. Used for blouses, shirts,
and dresses. See also Crêpon. |
| LENO FABRIC |
fabrics |
A fabric in which
warp threads have been made to cross one another, between
picks, during leno weaving |
A fabric in which
warp threads have been made to cross one another, between
picks, during leno weaving. The simpler types of lightweight
fabric produced by this method of weaving are known as
'gauze'. The crossing of the warp threads may be a general
feature of plain leno fabrics (as in marquisette and some
gauzes and muslins) or may be used in combination with
other weaves, as in some cellular fabrics. |
| LENO SELVEDGE |
fabrics |
See under Selvedge. |
See under Selvedge. |
| LENO VOILE |
fabrics |
Plain-weave cotton
voile fabric with an open, leno weave stripe in it |
Plain-weave cotton
voile fabric with an open, leno weave stripe in it. Soft
drapy fabric. Used for children's clothes, blouses, and
nightwear. See also Voile |
| LENO WEAVE |
fabrics |
A type of weave
in which two adjacent warp yarns cross each other between
the picks |
A type of weave
in which two adjacent warp yarns cross each other between
the picks. In this weave, one yarn moves alternately from
side to side producing a cellular hole. This process can
be used to produce a fancy effect or for more practical
reasons, e.g. the crossed yarn will introduce stability
into a fine fabric.
Any fibre can be used to make leno weave cloth. |
| LEOPARD |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A buff-coloured,
shorthaired flat fur, with black rosette markings |
A buff-coloured,
shorthaired flat fur, with black rosette markings. Very
hardwearing. |
| LET-OFF MARK |
defects |
Fabric defect in
woven fabrics. |
Fabric defect in
woven fabrics. A corrugated defect pattern distributed
across the fabric width, caused by badly adjusted let-off
motions of a loom. (Compare Shier.) |
| LET-OFF MOTION |
processes, operations |
A mechanism for
controlled release and tension of yarns or fabrics during
an unwinding operation |
A mechanism for
controlled release and tension of yarns or fabrics during
an unwinding operation. The device which is driven mechanically
is called 'positive let-off motion' and when it is made
to operate otherwise is called 'negative let-off motion'. |
| LETONA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A leaf fibre obtained
from the plant 'agave letonae'. |
A leaf fibre obtained
from the plant 'agave letonae'. |
| LETTER PRESS PRINTING |
processes, operations |
The printing of
type or illustrations from an image raised in relief |
The printing of
type or illustrations from an image raised in relief;
the surface is inked before being pressed on paper or
cloth. |
| LEUCO DYE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A soluble reduced
form of a dye from which the original dye may be regenerated
by oxidation. |
A soluble reduced
form of a dye from which the original dye may be regenerated
by oxidation. See also Vat dye and Sulphur dye |
| LEUCO SULPHUR DYE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A sulphur dye composition |
A sulphur dye composition
consisting of the leuco compound in the presence of a
small excess of a reducing agent. |
| LEVEL DYEING |
processes, operations |
The dyeing of cloth
to produce uniformity of colour |
The dyeing of cloth
to produce uniformity of colour with no streaks or shaded
areas. |
| LEVEL PILE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
In pile yarn floor
covering, pile in which all tuft legs are of substantially
the same length. |
In pile yarn floor
covering, pile in which all tuft legs are of substantially
the same length. |
| LEVELLING |
processes, operations |
The process leading
to more uniform distribution of a chemical or dye within
a substrate or between substrates. |
The process leading
to more uniform distribution of a chemical or dye within
a substrate or between substrates. In dyeing, the migration
of dye molecules resulting in more uniform distribution
of the dye in the material. (Compare Transfer, Migration.) |
| LIBERTY PRINTS |
fabrics |
Trade name for
certain exclusively designed prints |
Trade name for
certain exclusively designed prints usually incorporating
many colours and applied to fine cotton lawn, thicker
dress-weight cotton, cotton furnishing fabrics, silk and
fine wool challis. |
| LIBERTY SATIN |
fabrics |
Trade name for
a very soft, piece-dyed satin fabric, with raw silk warp
and single spun-silk weft. Used for lingerie, robes, dresses,
wedding gowns, etc. |
Trade name for
a very soft, piece-dyed satin fabric, with raw silk warp
and single spun-silk weft. Used for lingerie, robes, dresses,
wedding gowns, etc. Very soft, so it will gather easily
into soft drape styles. Slippery to handle |
| LIFT |
processes, operations |
In spinning and
twisting processes, the length of that part of the take-up
package, which is in-tended to be covered by roving or
yarn. |
1. In spinning
and twisting processes, the length of that part of the
take-up package, which is in-tended to be covered by roving
or yarn.
2. In weaving, a term used to denote the movement of those
parts of the loom mechanism associated with the formation
of the shed and hence, in weaving diagrams, to denote
the representation of a warp thread over a weft thread.
3. In weaving, the term is also used to describe the movement
of shuttle boxes. |
| LIGHT |
general |
Light is a form
of electromagnetic radiation. |
Light is a form
of electromagnetic radiation. See also Visible light. |
| LIGHT BEDFORD CORD |
fabrics |
See under Bedford
cord. |
See under Bedford
cord. |
| LIGHT END |
defects |
See Fine end. |
See Fine end. |
| LIGHT FASTNESS |
general |
The property of
a material, expressed usually by an assigned number |
The property of
a material, expressed usually by an assigned number, depicting
a ranked change in its colour characteristics as a result
of exposure of the material to sunlight or an artificial
light source. |
| LIGHT FILLING |
defects |
See Thin filling |
See Thin filling |
| LIGHT FILLING BAR |
defects |
See Fine filling
bar. |
See Fine filling
bar. |
| LIGHT PICK |
defects |
See Thin filling |
See Thin filling |
| LIGHT PLACE |
defects |
See Fine filling
bar. |
See Fine filling
bar. |
| LIGHT-FAST |
general |
Colour which will
not fade with normal exposure to sunlight. |
Colour which will
not fade with normal exposure to sunlight. No colour is
entirely fast to light, but some are more resistant than
others are |
| LIGHT-SENSITIVE
VARNISH |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A photographic
emulsion used in the engraved printing roller industry. |
A photographic
emulsion used in the engraved printing roller industry.
It is usually made of a branded polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)
emulsion added to a solution of ammoinium bichromate. |
| LIGHTWEIGHT CORDS |
fabrics |
See under Corduroy. |
See under Corduroy. |
| LIGNE |
accessories |
A standard measure,
equal to 0.635 mm (0.025 in.) by which button and ribbons
are measured, |
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