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Home > Online Textile Dictionary

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LABEL CLOTH fabrics A heavily, but flexibly, filled fabric, used for labels and tags. A heavily, but flexibly, filled fabric, used for labels and tags.
LABEL, CARE accessories See Care label See Care label
LABORATORY DIP processes, operations A laboratory dyeing, usually to develop a dye formula. A laboratory dyeing, usually to develop a dye formula.
LABORATORY SAMPLE general A portion of material taken to represent the lot sample A portion of material taken to represent the lot sample, or the original material, and used in the laboratory as a source of test specimens.
LAC DYE apparatus, equipage, tools A fairly fast orange crimson natural dyestuff of the same class as cochineal, obtained from 'Coccus lacca' A fairly fast orange crimson natural dyestuff of the same class as cochineal, obtained from 'Coccus lacca'. The insect lives on the twigs of certain trees, covered with a resinous encrustation, which is extracted with water to obtain the dye
LACE fabrics A fabric consisting of sets of threads, some of which are twisted round the others at intervals, thus producing 'holes' as patterning. A fabric consisting of sets of threads, some of which are twisted round the others at intervals, thus producing 'holes' as patterning.
Open-work fabrics of various construction and elaborate designs, with a ground of mesh or net on which patterns may be worked at the same time as the ground is formed or applied later, and which is made of yarn by looping, twisting, or knitting, either by hand with a needle or bobbin, or by ma-chinery. Also a similar fabric may be made by crocheting, tatting, darning, embroidering, weaving, or knitting.
Any fibre may be used but the most common are now nylon, viscose and cotton. Made as edgings as well as wide-width fabric, it is with few exceptions, machine-made. There has been a great revival in hand-made bobbin or pillow lace, but as a leisure-time craft interest, not for commercial pur-poses. Narrow lace is used flat, pleated or gathered as decoration; wide lace is used for lingerie, nightwear, formal dresses, such as wedding outfits; cheaper varieties are used as curtains and bed-spreads. Lace often has an underlay, either matching or contrasting.
There are many types of lace with different descriptive names, often taken from the area in which they were first developed.
LACE EFFECT fabrics A broad term for novelty fabrics with open, lacy effects A broad term for novelty fabrics with open, lacy effects produced by leno weaves, machine embroidery on sheer ground, mock leno effects.
LACE FURNISHING MACHINE apparatus, equipage, tools See under Lace machines. See under Lace machines.
LACE MACHINES apparatus, equipage, tools Bar warp machine, Barmen machine...etc Bar warp machine: A warp lace machine in which the pattern control is similar to that of a Leavers machine.
Barmen machine: A braiding machine in which threads on king bobbins placed on carriers are plaited with each other, and sometimes with warp threads. A jacquard controls the paths of the car-riers in accordance with the requirements of the pattern.
Bobbinet machine: Also called Plain net machine. A machine in which threads in brass bobbins borne in carriages, in pairs in tandem in each comb space, swing in pendulum fashion between ver-tical warp threads in planes at right angles to the warp sheet and progressively traverse across the whole width of the machine and return.
Curtain machine: Also called Lace furnishing machine. A machine in which threads in brass bob-bins borne in carriages, each in an allotted comb space, swing in pendulum fashion between vertical warp and pattern threads in planes at right angles to a warp sheet. The lateral movements of the warp and pattern threads are imparted by guide bars. By interaction of a jack bar and a jacquard, spring-steel jacks modify the lateral movements of selected warp and pattern threads in accordance with the requirements of the pattern.
Double locker machine: A plain net machine in which the motion of the carriages is imparted by driving and locker bars.
Go-through machine: A Leavers type of machine, in which the catch bars impart motion to the car-riages.
Lace furnishing machine: See Curtain machine, above.
Leavers machine: A machine in which threads in brass bobbins borne in carriages, each in an allot-ted comb space, swing in pendulum fashion between vertical warp and pattern threads in planes at right angles to a warp sheet. The lateral movements of the warp and pattern threads are imparted by steel bars, actuated by a jacquard.
Mechlin machine: A Leavers type of machine without a jacquard that employs a limited number of guide bars, whose movements are controlled by cams. It is used for making a special type of net called 'mechlin'.
Plain net machine: See Curtain machine, above.
Roller rocker machine: Also called Rolling rocker machine. A plain net machine in which the mo-tion of the carriages is imparted by fluted rollers.
Rolling rocker machine: See Roller Rocker machine, above.
Sival machine: A Leavers type of machine, differing from the standard version in that the frame and the catch-bar and point-bar linkages are similar to those of the furnishing machine. Its pattern-ing principle is the same as that of the Leavers machine, and the lace produced is of the Leavers type.
String warp machine: A warp lace machine in which the pattern control is similar to that of the furnishing machine. The jacks work between the guide bars and needles.
Warp lace machine: A machine on which the ground threads are looped and are taken from warp beams. The pattern threads are laid in and secured by the ground threads.
LACE QUALITY fabrics A quantitative measure of the rate of take-up (and thus the comparative warp-way) of lace in the machine. A quantitative measure of the rate of take-up (and thus the comparative warp-way) of lace in the machine.
The finished quality of lace and net differs from the quality in the machine state owing to dimen-sional changes introduced in dressing. The finished quality of plain net is traditionally expressed as the sum of the Hole count per inch warp-way and the hole count per inch bobbin-way.
LACE SPRIG fabrics A portion of a lace appliquéd to a net ground A portion of a lace appliquéd to a net ground
LACE STITCH fabrics In weft knitting. An open-work effect In weft knitting. An open-work effect (in plain-knitted fabric) produced by transferring needle loops to an adjacent needle of the same needle bar.
LACE YARNS fibers, filaments, yarns Smooth ply cotton yarns generally produced in the range of 60's to 24o's counts; generally hard twisted and gassed. Smooth ply cotton yarns generally produced in the range of 60's to 24o's counts; generally hard twisted and gassed. Made of good quality combed cotton. Mostly Egyptian, prima or Sea Island cotton are used.
LACET accessories A braided or woven narrow fabric, flat or tubular A braided or woven narrow fabric, flat or tubular, often cut into length and tagged for use as shoelaces and corset-laces.
LACING processes, operations See under Leasing. See under Leasing.
LACING CORD accessories See under Cable cord. See under Cable cord.
LACQUER FINISH processes, operations A chemical process forming a thin, smooth, highly glazed film on the surface of the cloth; it may be applied in patterns. A chemical process forming a thin, smooth, highly glazed film on the surface of the cloth; it may be applied in patterns. Among the materials used are cellulose acetate, synthetic resins.
LACQUER PRINT processes, operations Lacquer is used to bind pigments to a fabric. Lacquer is used to bind pigments to a fabric. The continuous film formed also sticks the fibres together and the fabric has a stiff hand; the usefulness is therefore limited.
LADDEER BRAID garments, made-ups, assemblies Also called 'Lattice braid' Also called 'Lattice braid'. An open-work braid which, in appearance, suggests a ladder. Used for laces and trimmings.
LADDEER STITCH general An embroidery stitch. An embroidery stitch. The threads are arranged in a way to simulate the rungs of a ladder.
LADDER defects Fabric defect. A wale or several consecutive wales in a weft-knitted fabric in which the loop formation has collapsed into straight lengths of yarn. Fabric defect. A wale or several consecutive wales in a weft-knitted fabric in which the loop formation has collapsed into straight lengths of yarn. The defect is caused by the breakdown of a stitch that, when the fabric is subsequently subjected to tension, permits the de-knitting of the stitches in the same wale or wales within previous courses. See also Run
LADDER WEB accessories A four-ply woven narrow fabric, A crochet or warp-knitted narrow fabric 1. A four-ply woven narrow fabric consisting of two outer or body webs between which are woven two narrow webs in staggered relationship with each other, each being woven alternately into one end and then the outer or body web, so as to form, when opened up, supports for the slats of a Vene-tian blind.
2. A crochet or warp-knitted narrow fabric, consisting of two wales, or columns of stitches spaced apart by the width of the slat of a venetian blind. Weft yarns cross from one wale to the other to form a ladder-like structure which separates and positions the slats of the blind. Knitted web is usu-ally made from polyester yarn and heat set after manufacture.
LAHORE fabrics A piece-dyed dress fabric made from cashmere in small dobby effects. A piece-dyed dress fabric made from cashmere in small dobby effects.
LAID FABRIC fabrics A fabric made without weft yarn A fabric made without weft yarn, the parallel warp yarns being held together by means of rubber latex or other binding material
LAID ROPE accessories See under Rope See under Rope
LAID-IN FABRIC, WARP-KNITTED fabrics A fabric containing one or more series of warp threads held into the ground construction by being trapped between the face loops and the underlaps of the ground construction. A fabric containing one or more series of warp threads held into the ground construction by being trapped between the face loops and the underlaps of the ground construction. The laid-in yarn is connected to the ground construction by an underlap on each wale that it crosses.
LAID-IN FABRIC, WEFT-KNITTED fabrics A fabric containing non-knitted yarns, which are held in position by the knitted structure. A fabric containing non-knitted yarns, which are held in position by the knitted structure. These fabrics are frequently raised to produce a pile effect, e.g. fleecy fabrics.
LAID-PILE FINISH processes, operations See Drawn-pile finish. See Drawn-pile finish.
LAKE apparatus, equipage, tools In textile field this is the principle of mordant dyeing and printing. An insoluble pigment obtained by precipitating various natural and artificial colouring matters on to a suitable base in the presence of alum or salts of magnesium, zinc, tin, etc. In textile field this is the principle of mordant dyeing and printing.
LAMB'S WOOL fibers, filaments, yarns Soft resilient wool shorn from lambs up to seven months old. Soft resilient wool shorn from lambs up to seven months old. Yarns from lambswool are used for knitwear and, in small amounts, mixed with other fibres in fabrics. Anything containing lambswool has a characteristic soft feel that makes it comfortable to the wearer.
LAMBREQUIN fabrics A decorative fabric A decorative fabric that may be hung from a shelf or casing for concealing unsightly walls and curtain fixtures
LAMBSDOWN fabrics A plaited knitted fabric made of soft twist woollen yarn and hard twist cotton yarn. A plaited knitted fabric made of soft twist woollen yarn and hard twist cotton yarn. The woollen yarn appears on the face, which is given a heavy, spongy napped finish; the cotton yarn appears on the back. Used for children's coats, blanketing, robes.
LAMBSKIN CLOTH fabrics A cotton fabric having a high weft sett, with dense nap of fibre on the surface. A cotton fabric having a high weft sett, with dense nap of fibre on the surface. The weave is of a weft-sateen character of the fustain type
LAMÈ fabrics Any fabric containing metal yarns. The metal may be added as decoration or it may exist as the warp or weft thread. Any fabric containing metal yarns. The metal may be added as decoration or it may exist as the warp or weft thread. The main fabric can be silk, viscose, acetate, triacetate, nylon, or polyester, and the weave is usually plain. The fabrics are thin and drape well. Used for evening dresses, capes, boleros, and fancy dress. Requires lining. A one-way fabric. See also Lame jersey.
LAMÈ JERSEY fabrics Knitted fabric, usually acetate, viscose or polyester, with metallic yarn included as an extra thread in the knitting. Knitted fabric, usually acetate, viscose or polyester, with metallic yarn included as an extra thread in the knitting. It is a one-way fabric, with a light silver or gold (or coloured) effect one way, but when held up the other way less shine will be visible and more of the basic colour. Usually lightweight and often almost transparent. Very soft and drapes beautifully for eveningwear.
LAMINATED FABRIC fabrics A layered fabric structure, wherein a face or outer fabric is joined to a continuous sheet material, such as polyurethane foam A layered fabric structure, wherein a face or outer fabric is joined to a continuous sheet material, such as polyurethane foam, in such a way that the identity of the continuous sheet material is retained, either by the flame method or by an adhesive, and this in turn normally, but not always, is joined on the back with a backing fabric such as tricot. The fabrics are not hardwearing, nor are they very warm, but the foam adds body to the fabric. Used for children's clothes, women's jackets and trousers and inexpensive coats. Slightly springy, but easy to handle. See also Bonded fabric.
LAMINATES fabrics See Laminated fabric. See Laminated fabric.
LAMPAS fabrics A fabric similar to brocade, originally an Indian printed silk, but now a woven fabric with a rep ground and a satin-like pattern formed by the warp yarns. A fabric similar to brocade, originally an Indian printed silk, but now a woven fabric with a rep ground and a satin-like pattern formed by the warp yarns. A contrasting effect is achieved, too, with the weft yarns so that the same colour appears in the pattern as in the background. Very elaborate designs are produced. It is a heavy fabric, usually made now of cotton, viscose, acrylic or mixtures. Used for curtains and furnishings. In some cases the wrong side is often attractive enough not to need lining.
LAMPWICK accessories See Wick See Wick
LANA FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns A lustrous seed hair obtained from a species of bombax tree cotton A lustrous seed hair obtained from a species of bombax tree cotton in Venezuela and Puerto Rico. Used for stuffing.
LANCÉ fabrics A term applied to fabrics in which the weft threads interlace with only a few warp threads at intervals across the fabric A term applied to fabrics in which the weft threads interlace with only a few warp threads at intervals across the fabric, and float over or under the rest to produce tiny dots or specks on the ground.
LANGLEY general Unit of energy received by sample being tested for light fastness or strength loss Unit of energy received by sample being tested for light fastness or strength loss either in sunlight or the Fade-o-meter
LANOLIN apparatus, equipage, tools A complex chemical substance, fatty in nature and chiefly a mixture of cholesterol esters obtained from grease wool. A complex chemical substance, fatty in nature and chiefly a mixture of cholesterol esters obtained from grease wool. It serves as an emollient for the skin of the sheep and for its fleece. Purified sheep grease under the name of lanolin or lanolin serves as the basis for grease paints, ointments, and skin creams.
LANSDOWN fabrics A lightweight, soft, fine dress fabric woven with a silk warp A lightweight, soft, fine dress fabric woven with a silk warp, which appears on the face, and worsted or cotton filling, which shows on the back, in a two up, one down twill.
LAP general, fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics, processes, operations A sheet of fibres or fabric wrapped around a core with specific applications in different sections of the industry 1. GENERAL. A sheet of fibres or fabric wrapped around a core with specific applications in different sections of the industry, e.g. sheets of fibre wound on rollers or round endless aprons to facilitate transfer from one process to the next.
2. IN SILK. Silk waste after discharging and combing, but before processing into sliver or top.
3. IN FABRIC.
(a) The length of fabric between successive transverse folds when pieces are plaited down or folded.
(b) An individual layer of fabric in roll form.
4. IN WARP-KNITTING. Descriptive of the wrapping of the yarn around the needle. The term is some-times used synonymously for 'overlap'. See also Lapping movement
LAP WASTE fibers, filaments, yarns Waste of long fibres, formed in drawing and spinning processes Waste of long fibres, formed in drawing and spinning processes by the breaking of the ends between the front rollers and the bobbins.
LAP-FELLED SEAM general A seam formed with the edges of both plies of fabric concealed by inter-lapping. A seam formed with the edges of both plies of fabric concealed by inter-lapping. Two or more rows of stitches secure the turned pieces of fabric.
LAPEL garments, made-ups, assemblies The upper part of the front edge of a jacket or coat which folds back on to the forepart. The upper part of the front edge of a jacket or coat which folds back on to the forepart. The length of the lapel extends from the gorge seam to the back.
LAPEL ROLL garments, made-ups, assemblies The fall and curl of the lapel downwards from the break seam of the collar to the first button. The fall and curl of the lapel downwards from the break seam of the collar to the first button. The term 'roll' will apply mostly to a soft finish lapel, not one which is pressed almost flat on the crease line.
LAPPED processes, operations See Cuttled. See Cuttled.
LAPPED APPLICATION accessories A method of zipper application, in which only one fabric flap covers the zipper and there is only one row of stitching to the left of the seamline. A method of zipper application, in which only one fabric flap covers the zipper and there is only one row of stitching to the left of the seamline. This type of application is common on left-side openings of skirts and pants.
LAPPED SEAM general A complex seam formed on the inside of the object with neither raw edge enclosed, and having one visible line of topstitching on the face side and a small fold formed by the topstitching. A complex seam formed on the inside of the object with neither raw edge enclosed, and having one visible line of topstitching on the face side and a small fold formed by the topstitching. A lapped seam is made by (1) machine basting the face sides of the fabric together on the 15 mm seamline, (2) pressing both seam allowances to one side, (3) clipping the basting stitches every four to five stitches to facilitate later thread removal (4) basting the seam allowances in place to one side to avoid movement during the topstitching step, (5) topstitching through the fabric and both seam allowances 1 to 2 mm from the fold, and (6) removing both machine bastings. (Compare Tucked seam.)
LAPPET fabrics, apparatus, equipage, tools See Ballooning eye. 1. A figure produced on fabric by means of extra warps, using a special form of loom.
2. See Ballooning eye.
LAPPET WEAVE fabrics Type of weave in which floating threads are carried on the surface of the fabric and introduced at intervals to form the pattern. Type of weave in which floating threads are carried on the surface of the fabric and introduced at intervals to form the pattern. The floats are not long and the patterns are usually geometric, i.e. zigzag stripes in white yarn on a coloured plain-weave ground. The technique can also be introduced to form woven spots. In this case, the floating yarns between spots are cut. Almost any fibre or mixture of fibres can be used.
LAPPING apparatus, equipage, tools Specially woven fabric is wound about eight or ten times round the central pressure bowl of a textile-printing machine to ensure resilience. Specially woven fabric is wound about eight or ten times round the central pressure bowl of a textile-printing machine to ensure resilience.
LAPPING MOVEMENT processes, operations The compound motion of the guide bars of warp-knitting machines that presents the threads to the needles so that loops can be formed The compound motion of the guide bars of warp-knitting machines that presents the threads to the needles so that loops can be formed. This compound motion consists in swinging motions of the guides at right angles to the needle bar, and lateral movements parallel to the needle bar. See also Overlap and Underlap
LARVA fibers, filaments, yarns Stage of a silkworm's life when hatched from the egg. Stage of a silkworm's life when hatched from the egg. It is immature, wingless, and wormlike; growth in size and development change the larva into the chrysalis stage.
LASER CLOTH INSPECTOR apparatus, equipage, tools A device that can scan grey fabric (up to 64 inches wide) rapidly at speeds up to 250 yards per minute A device that can scan grey fabric (up to 64 inches wide) rapidly at speeds up to 250 yards per minute
LASH-IN defects See Jerk-in See Jerk-in
LASHED PILE fabrics A filling pile with each pile pick interwoven with three ends to bind it securely. A filling pile with each pile pick interwoven with three ends to bind it securely. Also called 'fast pile'.
LASHING garments, made-ups, assemblies The fastening of the inside seams of coat edgings or facings to the outer fabric or interlining, in order to hold them in position. The fastening of the inside seams of coat edgings or facings to the outer fabric or interlining, in order to hold them in position. Usually sewn by a blind stitch machine.
LASTING fabrics A very stout, closely woven fabric made from hard-twisted yarns. A very stout, closely woven fabric made from hard-twisted yarns. A 'worsted lasting', which is mainly used for protective clothing, is usually a seven-shaft weave. A 'cotton lasting', which may be of sateen or weft-faced twill weave, is used chiefly for shoe tops and bag linings.
LASTRILE FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns See Rubber-2 under Rubber See Rubber-2 under Rubber
LATCH NEEDLE apparatus, equipage, tools See under Needle See under Needle
LATENT CRIMP fibers, filaments, yarns A crimp that is potentially present in specially prepared fibres or filaments and that can be developed by a specific treatment such as thermal relaxation or tensioning and subsequent relaxation. A crimp that is potentially present in specially prepared fibres or filaments and that can be developed by a specific treatment such as thermal relaxation or tensioning and subsequent relaxation. Yarns or staple are specially prepared to crimp when subjected to certain, specific conditions such as wet processing or tumbling in a heated chamber.
LATERAL fibers, filaments, yarns A descriptive term for a textile fibre composed of two or more polymers A descriptive term for a textile fibre composed of two or more polymers at least two of which have a continuous longitudinal external surface.
LATERAL HOLDING STRENGTH accessories The force required to disengage a snap fastener The force required to disengage a snap fastener resulting from a pull in the plane parallel to the material to which the snap fastener is attached.
LATERAL LEAKGE processes, operations The passage of gases along or through the textile element of a coated fabric The passage of gases along or through the textile element of a coated fabric or along interstices formed by the textile element and the coating polymer of a coated fabric.
LATEX fibers, filaments, yarns The milky juice found in certain plants, which is the raw material from which rubber is made. The milky juice found in certain plants, which is the raw material from which rubber is made. It is made into stretch yarns with a variety of names, and incorporated into various fabrics to make corsetry, swimwear, ski-wear, lace and elastic
LATTICE BRAID fabrics See Ladder braid. See Ladder braid.
LAUNDER-O-METER apparatus, equipage, tools The standard laboratory device for testing a fabric's colourfastness The standard laboratory device for testing a fabric's colourfastness to, and shrinkage in, washing and dry cleaning. Also used to test other laundry problems.
LAUNDER-PROOF fabrics, garments, made-ups, assemblies Fabrics and garments which have been laboratory tested to withstand laundering Fabrics and garments which have been laboratory tested to withstand laundering with no colour lose and shrinkage under normal washing conditions and length of time.
LAUNDERING processes, operations A process intended to remove soils and/or stains by treatment (washing) with an aqueous detergent solution and normally including subsequent rinsing, extracting and drying. A process intended to remove soils and/or stains by treatment (washing) with an aqueous detergent solution and normally including subsequent rinsing, extracting and drying. A process used to refurbish a textile product or parts thereof by: (a) cleaning it in water containing a cleaning agent, and possibly bleach, (b) drying it, and (c) usually, ironing or pressing it.
LAUNDRY DUCK fabrics A wide army duck fabric A wide army duck fabric specially constructed for covering rolls in mangles and other laundry machines.
LAUNDRY-TESTED fabrics, garments, made-ups, assemblies Fabrics and garments which have passed certain tests for colour fastness to washing Fabrics and garments which have passed certain tests for colour fastness to washing, sun, gas and perspiration; tensile strength; dimensional stability; construction, etc.
LAWN fabrics Very fine smooth plain weave fabric originally made from linen, but more commonly from cotton and now also featured in man-made fibres. Very fine smooth plain weave fabric originally made from linen, but more commonly from cotton and now also featured in man-made fibres. May be plain or printed, and has a slightly stiff finish which may be permanent. Very cool and absorbent and hardwearing. Used for baby clothes, blouses, and nightwear. Creases easily. Ordinarily lawn is too closely woven to be 'sheer' but lawns made from synthetic man-made fibres have a tendency to be sheer. Lawn and cambric have similarities because both are fine fabrics but lawn is usually more closely woven and stiffer in handle than cambric. See Handkerchief linen.
LAWN FINISH apparatus, equipage, tools A light-starch finish applied to lawn and other fine-yarn plain fabrics A light-starch finish applied to lawn and other fine-yarn plain fabrics to give a crisp finished material.
LAY fabrics, accessories A build up of two or more layers of fabric in identical lengths so that they can be cut collectively into garment portions. 1. A build up of two or more layers of fabric in identical lengths so that they can be cut collectively into garment portions. The dimensions of the lay in respect of number of layers and length are pre-determined, as is the layout of the garment pieces on the upper surface of the lay.
2. In cordage, to twist two or more components about each other to form a helix about the axis of the resulting laid product which may be a strand or rope. The direction of lay is described as 'S' and 'Z' (see Direction of twist).
LAY LENGTH accessories The pitch of one complete turn of a yarn in a strand or of a strand in a rope The pitch of one complete turn of a yarn in a strand or of a strand in a rope measured in a straight line parallel to the axis of the strand or rope.
LAY MARKER apparatus, equipage, tools See Marker. See Marker.
LAY PINS apparatus, equipage, tools Thin steel pins about 10-15 cm. long with large heads. Thin steel pins about 10-15 cm. long with large heads. They are pushed through the waste parts of fabric lays to hold them firm for cutting. Mostly used on quilted fabrics.
LAY PLANNING processes, operations The arranging of patterns of the component parts of a garment The arranging of patterns of the component parts of a garment within a given width of fabric in order to obtain the most economical use of the material. Also called 'layout planning'.
LAYING UP processes, operations The act of building the lay from rolls or piles of fabric The act of building the lay from rolls or piles of fabric. Same as Spreading.
LAYOUT PLANNING processes, operations See Lay planning See Lay planning
LAZY-DAISY-STITCH general Long, detached chain stitches grouped to form a daisy pattern. Long, detached chain stitches grouped to form a daisy pattern. An embroidery stitch.
LCSP fibers, filaments, yarns See Lea count-strength product. See Lea count-strength product.
LEA fibers, filaments, yarns A unit length used to determine the linear density of various yarns, usually a predetermined fraction of a hank for a specific yarn number system: A unit length used to determine the linear density of various yarns, usually a predetermined fraction of a hank for a specific yarn number system:
1. IN COTTON, the number of 120 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering sys-tem.
2. IN WORSTED, the number of 80 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering sys-tem.
3. IN LINEN, the number of 300 yard lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system
LEA COUNT-STRENGTH PRODUCT general Also called CSP, Break factor. Also called CSP, Break factor. The product of the lea strength, and the actual count, of cotton yarn.
LEA SKEIN fibers, filaments, yarns A skein, of length and circumference specified for the specific yarn numbering system involved A skein, of length and circumference specified for the specific yarn numbering system involved, commonly used to determine the linear density and the strength of yarns.
LEACHING processes, operations Percolating action of a suitable liquid to remove any substance Percolating action of a suitable liquid to remove any substance
LEADER FABRIC fabrics A length of fabric used in finishing or dyeing processes to lead goods through a machine, and generally left ready for attachment to a further place when necessary. A length of fabric used in finishing or dyeing processes to lead goods through a machine, and generally left ready for attachment to a further place when necessary. A leader cloth is often called an'end-fent' and its use enables a piece to be finished from end to end substantially without waste. See also End-fent
LEADER MARK defects See Decating mark. See Decating mark.
LEAF apparatus, equipage, tools Same as 'harness'. Same as 'harness'. A three-leaf twill fabric, is a twill made by using three harnesses on the loom.
LEAF EDGE garments, made-ups, assemblies The outer or fall edge of the collar. The outer or fall edge of the collar.
LEAF FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns Also called Hard fibre Also called Hard fibre. Derived from the hard coarse leaves of dicotyledonous plants such as abaca.
LEAFY COTTON fibers, filaments, yarns A ginned cotton which contains a large amount of small leaf matter. A ginned cotton which contains a large amount of small leaf matter.
LEASE processes, operations The arrangement of warp yarns to maintain the same relative position. The arrangement of warp yarns to maintain the same relative position. This is done generally by criss-crossing alternately, keeping them in position by two rods, called lease rods.
LEASE BANDS fibers, filaments, yarns . Bands laid across a warp being wound onto a beam 1. Bands laid across a warp being wound onto a beam to make later handling easier.
2. Bands laid across a yarn-hank being reeled to make later handling easier.
LEASING processes, operations The operation of inserting a crossed traverse lease-cord in wraps of yarn on a reel for the purpose of preventing tangling of yarn during processing, e.g. in hank dyeing, leasing is employed to facili-tate subsequent winding of a yarn package from the hank supply. 1. The operation of inserting a crossed traverse lease-cord in wraps of yarn on a reel for the purpose of preventing tangling of yarn during processing, e.g. in hank dyeing, leasing is employed to facili-tate subsequent winding of a yarn package from the hank supply. The leasing cords are removed from the dyed hanks immediately before the 'hank to cone/cheese winding' operation. In the case of silk yarns, this operation is termed 'lacing' and 'halching'. The term halching is used when the lease-cord is coloured differently from the yarn.
2. Leasing is also used for the purpose of separating wraps of yarn on a reel into groups of specific numbers, as per requirement.
LEATHER CLOTH fabrics A coated fabric which is embossed to give a leather-like appearance A coated fabric which is embossed to give a leather-like appearance
LEATHER FIBRE, GROUND fibers, filaments, yarns Waste leather ground into a fibrous state Waste leather ground into a fibrous state; plastic resin is used so the material can be formed to appear like real leather.
LEATHERETTE fabrics Coated fabrics which suggest leather. Coated fabrics which suggest leather. The material is coloured, finished and embossed to simulate leather grains and qualities. It is considered a misnomer.
LEATHERI fabrics The hide or skin of animals The hide or skin of animals. Thickness and type varies according to its source. There is a variety of types and these are listed under the appropriate name. Handling is the same for all types of leather. Leathers are all skin-shaped as they come from the animal, so they vary in size
LEAVERS LACE fabrics Trade name which has developed into a generic term Trade name which has developed into a generic term for describing laces made on a Leavers machine
LEAVERS MACHINE apparatus, equipage, tools See under Lace machines. See under Lace machines.
LEFT TWIST fibers, filaments, yarns Same as 'S' twist. Same as 'S' twist. See under Direction of twist.
LEFT-HAND TWILL fabrics See under Lace machines. See under Lace machines.
LEGS fabrics, apparatus, equipage, tools See Sides under Knitted loop. 1. See Sides under Knitted loop.
2. In zippers, the two portions of a separate element that affix the element to the bead.
LEICESTER WOOLS fibers, filaments, yarns Lincoln, Cotswold, Romney Marsh, Cheviot wools, etc., spoken of as long crossbreeds, and now raised throughout the world, come in this group. Lincoln, Cotswold, Romney Marsh, Cheviot wools, etc., spoken of as long crossbreeds, and now raised throughout the world, come in this group. The fibre length ranges from 4 to 16 inches, while the fibre diameter is from 1/700 inch to 1/950 inch; there are 800 to 1,000 serrations per inch in the fibres. These hardy and lustrous wools, which have the tendency to reflect light rays, are used in homespun, tweeds, cheviot, and Shetland fabrics for outerwear.
LENGTH GROUP fibers, filaments, yarns All fibres, or pulls, whose lengths fall within a given length interval. All fibres, or pulls, whose lengths fall within a given length interval.
LENGTH INTERVAL general A class interval of 1/8 in. (3 mm), usually designated by its midpoint length in odd-numbered sixteenths of an inch. A class interval of 1/8 in. (3 mm), usually designated by its midpoint length in odd-numbered sixteenths of an inch.
LENGTH OF LAY fibers, filaments, yarns In cords and strands, the actual distance required to make one 360° revolution in any element in a strand or cord. In cords and strands, the actual distance required to make one 360° revolution in any element in a strand or cord.
LENGTH, BENDING fabrics See Bending length. See Bending length.
LENGTHWISE DIRECTION fabrics The direction in a machine-made fabric parallel to the direction of movement the fabric followed in the manufacturing machine. The direction in a machine-made fabric parallel to the direction of movement the fabric followed in the manufacturing machine.
LENO CRÊPON fabrics Comprising a cotton crêpon background cloth with leno-weave style embroidery. Comprising a cotton crêpon background cloth with leno-weave style embroidery. It may be white or in a contrasting colour and is usually worked in striped formation. Used for blouses, shirts, and dresses. See also Crêpon.
LENO FABRIC fabrics A fabric in which warp threads have been made to cross one another, between picks, during leno weaving A fabric in which warp threads have been made to cross one another, between picks, during leno weaving. The simpler types of lightweight fabric produced by this method of weaving are known as 'gauze'. The crossing of the warp threads may be a general feature of plain leno fabrics (as in marquisette and some gauzes and muslins) or may be used in combination with other weaves, as in some cellular fabrics.
LENO SELVEDGE fabrics See under Selvedge. See under Selvedge.
LENO VOILE fabrics Plain-weave cotton voile fabric with an open, leno weave stripe in it Plain-weave cotton voile fabric with an open, leno weave stripe in it. Soft drapy fabric. Used for children's clothes, blouses, and nightwear. See also Voile
LENO WEAVE fabrics A type of weave in which two adjacent warp yarns cross each other between the picks A type of weave in which two adjacent warp yarns cross each other between the picks. In this weave, one yarn moves alternately from side to side producing a cellular hole. This process can be used to produce a fancy effect or for more practical reasons, e.g. the crossed yarn will introduce stability into a fine fabric.
Any fibre can be used to make leno weave cloth.
LEOPARD fibers, filaments, yarns A buff-coloured, shorthaired flat fur, with black rosette markings A buff-coloured, shorthaired flat fur, with black rosette markings. Very hardwearing.
LET-OFF MARK defects Fabric defect in woven fabrics. Fabric defect in woven fabrics. A corrugated defect pattern distributed across the fabric width, caused by badly adjusted let-off motions of a loom. (Compare Shier.)
LET-OFF MOTION processes, operations A mechanism for controlled release and tension of yarns or fabrics during an unwinding operation A mechanism for controlled release and tension of yarns or fabrics during an unwinding operation. The device which is driven mechanically is called 'positive let-off motion' and when it is made to operate otherwise is called 'negative let-off motion'.
LETONA fibers, filaments, yarns A leaf fibre obtained from the plant 'agave letonae'. A leaf fibre obtained from the plant 'agave letonae'.
LETTER PRESS PRINTING processes, operations The printing of type or illustrations from an image raised in relief The printing of type or illustrations from an image raised in relief; the surface is inked before being pressed on paper or cloth.
LEUCO DYE apparatus, equipage, tools A soluble reduced form of a dye from which the original dye may be regenerated by oxidation. A soluble reduced form of a dye from which the original dye may be regenerated by oxidation. See also Vat dye and Sulphur dye
LEUCO SULPHUR DYE apparatus, equipage, tools A sulphur dye composition A sulphur dye composition consisting of the leuco compound in the presence of a small excess of a reducing agent.
LEVEL DYEING processes, operations The dyeing of cloth to produce uniformity of colour The dyeing of cloth to produce uniformity of colour with no streaks or shaded areas.
LEVEL PILE garments, made-ups, assemblies In pile yarn floor covering, pile in which all tuft legs are of substantially the same length. In pile yarn floor covering, pile in which all tuft legs are of substantially the same length.
LEVELLING processes, operations The process leading to more uniform distribution of a chemical or dye within a substrate or between substrates. The process leading to more uniform distribution of a chemical or dye within a substrate or between substrates. In dyeing, the migration of dye molecules resulting in more uniform distribution of the dye in the material. (Compare Transfer, Migration.)
LIBERTY PRINTS fabrics Trade name for certain exclusively designed prints Trade name for certain exclusively designed prints usually incorporating many colours and applied to fine cotton lawn, thicker dress-weight cotton, cotton furnishing fabrics, silk and fine wool challis.
LIBERTY SATIN fabrics Trade name for a very soft, piece-dyed satin fabric, with raw silk warp and single spun-silk weft. Used for lingerie, robes, dresses, wedding gowns, etc. Trade name for a very soft, piece-dyed satin fabric, with raw silk warp and single spun-silk weft. Used for lingerie, robes, dresses, wedding gowns, etc. Very soft, so it will gather easily into soft drape styles. Slippery to handle
LIFT processes, operations In spinning and twisting processes, the length of that part of the take-up package, which is in-tended to be covered by roving or yarn. 1. In spinning and twisting processes, the length of that part of the take-up package, which is in-tended to be covered by roving or yarn.
2. In weaving, a term used to denote the movement of those parts of the loom mechanism associated with the formation of the shed and hence, in weaving diagrams, to denote the representation of a warp thread over a weft thread.
3. In weaving, the term is also used to describe the movement of shuttle boxes.
LIGHT general Light is a form of electromagnetic radiation. Light is a form of electromagnetic radiation. See also Visible light.
LIGHT BEDFORD CORD fabrics See under Bedford cord. See under Bedford cord.
LIGHT END defects See Fine end. See Fine end.
LIGHT FASTNESS general The property of a material, expressed usually by an assigned number The property of a material, expressed usually by an assigned number, depicting a ranked change in its colour characteristics as a result of exposure of the material to sunlight or an artificial light source.
LIGHT FILLING defects See Thin filling See Thin filling
LIGHT FILLING BAR defects See Fine filling bar. See Fine filling bar.
LIGHT PICK defects See Thin filling See Thin filling
LIGHT PLACE defects See Fine filling bar. See Fine filling bar.
LIGHT-FAST general Colour which will not fade with normal exposure to sunlight. Colour which will not fade with normal exposure to sunlight. No colour is entirely fast to light, but some are more resistant than others are
LIGHT-SENSITIVE VARNISH apparatus, equipage, tools A photographic emulsion used in the engraved printing roller industry. A photographic emulsion used in the engraved printing roller industry. It is usually made of a branded polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) emulsion added to a solution of ammoinium bichromate.
LIGHTWEIGHT CORDS fabrics See under Corduroy. See under Corduroy.
LIGNE accessories A standard measure, equal to 0.635 mm (0.025 in.) by which button and ribbons are measured,