| KAAI FINISH |
processes, operations |
A finishing treatment
by which the cotton yarns are shrunk |
A finishing treatment
by which the cotton yarns are shrunk to obtain a crinkled
appearance. The finish is used mainly for crepon and some
other fabrics made of cotton and mohair or worsted. |
| KAILI |
fabrics |
A British trade
name for Loongee. |
A British trade
name for Loongee. |
| KALABATUN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
A fine gold or
silver thread |
1. A fine gold
or silver thread, made by drawing the metal into a thin
wire and winding it around a core of yarn. Used extensively
of embroidering caps.
2. A cotton fabric ornamented with stripes of kalabatun
gold threads |
| KALAMKARI |
fabrics |
An Indian cotton
fabric hand-woven from native cottons. |
An Indian cotton
fabric hand-woven from native cottons. These fabrics are
hand printed, the design first applied with a pen. |
| KALEMKAR |
fabrics |
A Persian term
for various calicoes; |
1.A Persian term
for various calicoes; the best designs are considered
the floral arabesques.
2.The word also means a pen or brush picture. See Kalmkari. |
| KALINGS SILK |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A variety of raw
silk produced in China. |
A variety of raw
silk produced in China. Used mainly for sewing thread. |
| KANDAR |
processes, operations |
A trade name for
a resin finish for fabrics. |
A trade name for
a resin finish for fabrics. This treatment results in
a crisp, texture-rich and durable to dry cleaning and
laundering fabric. |
| KANGAROO HAIR |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A hair obtained
from the kangaroo. |
A hair obtained
from the kangaroo. It is procured in small quantities
and blended with other fibres for weaving bagging materials |
| KAPAS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Indian term denoting
raw cotton that contains seeds. |
Indian term denoting
raw cotton that contains seeds. |
| KAPOK |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The fibre resembles
cotton but silkier, is a seed fibre which is round, smooth
and light. |
The fibre resembles
cotton but silkier, is a seed fibre which is round, smooth
and light. As it is too brittle to spin, it is only used
as a bulky soft filling in upholstery, cushions, mattresses,
toys, etc. As a filler, it has been superseded to a certain
extent by the cheaper synthetic foam. Both are highly
in-flammable. |
| KARAKUL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The long carpet
wool obtained from young lambs of the Karakul breed. |
The long carpet
wool obtained from young lambs of the Karakul breed. Shrinkage
is about 35 %. See Astrakhan fur and Broadtail. |
| KARAKUL CLOTH |
fabrics |
See Caracul cloth |
See Caracul cloth |
| KARPASI |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Sanskrit for cotton. |
Sanskrit for cotton. |
| KASHA |
fabrics |
Fabric made from
fine wool and Tibet goat hair. |
1. Fabric made
from fine wool and Tibet goat hair. A softly napped fabric
with a crosswise streak caused by darker hairs. Used for
soft jackets and dresses.
2. May also be a cotton flannel fabric, with a napped
right side, slightly ècru in colour and made as
sheeting. See Sheeting |
| KASHMIR |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Cashmere. |
See Cashmere. |
| KASURI |
fabrics |
A hand-woven, plain
weave cotton fabric |
A hand-woven, plain
weave cotton fabric with irregular white dots on a blue
ground, produced by tie-dyeing. Made in Japan it is used
for school children's clothing. |
| KAZAK |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
An important variety
of wool rugs with long, soft pile, at least one end is
finished with a knotted fringe. |
An important variety
of wool rugs with long, soft pile, at least one end is
finished with a knotted fringe. Frequently made with four
picks alternating with each row of knots. Geometrical
designs often employ a toothed edge or primitively conventionalised
trees and animals, and characteristic colours are red,
green and blue. Made in small and medium sizes by the
nomads in Caucasia. |
| KDK |
fabrics |
See Knit-deknit
texturing. |
See Knit-deknit
texturing. |
| KEBA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Cocoon strippings. |
See Cocoon strippings. |
| KEMP |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A coarse, animal
fibre with a wide lattice-type medulla that is shed from
the skin at least once a year. |
A coarse, animal
fibre with a wide lattice-type medulla that is shed from
the skin at least once a year. It is often shorter than
other fibres of the fleece and has a long tapering tip,
and when completely shed, tapers sharply towards the root
end. It is often shorter than other fibres of the fleece
and has a long tapering tip, and when completely shed,
tapers sharply towards the root end. |
| KENAF |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
It is known as
Mesta in India. |
It is known as
Mesta in India. The fibre obtained from the bast layer
of the plant 'Hibiscus cannabinus'. Being similar to jute
in many of its properties, kenaf is used either as an
alternative to, or in admixture with jute. |
| KENTUCKY JEAN |
fabrics |
A strong, filling-faced
fabric, which is made with cotton warp and wool filling |
A strong, filling-faced
fabric, which is made with cotton warp and wool filling.
Used for trousers. |
| KERNMANTEL |
accessories |
A braided rope
so constructed as to possess high extension and energy
absorption under load, used in rock climbings etc. |
A braided rope
so constructed as to possess high extension and energy
absorption under load, used in rock climbings etc., to
arrest the accidental fall of a climber with as low deceleration
as possible. |
| KERSEY |
fabrics |
Woollen fabric
that originated in Kersey, Suffolk. |
Woollen fabric
that originated in Kersey, Suffolk. Has a lustre caused
by the use of crossbred wool, and is a very heavy, thick
wool coating fabric which has been fulled and also felted.
Often a twill weave, although the face finish that is
applied conceals this. Is a conventional cloth in appearance
and not much used now except for classic overcoats, or
in lighter weight for a classic black dress. May now contain
some acrylic fibre. |
| KETTLE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Beck |
See Beck |
| KETTLECLOTH |
fabrics |
Fairly stiff plain-weave
fabric, with a dull surface and a slight slub in the weave
which may be coloured. |
Fairly stiff plain-weave
fabric, with a dull surface and a slight slub in the weave
which may be coloured. Made from cotton and polyester
yarns. Ideal for men's light summer jackets, for trousers
for men and women, and other casual but crisp effect clothes |
| KEYMO FINISH |
processes, operations |
A finishing process
applied to wool fabric to prevent shrinkage. |
A finishing process
applied to wool fabric to prevent shrinkage. The treatment
consists of running the fabric through a sulphuric acid
solution. Now other types of shrinkage control have largely
su-perseded it |
| KHADDAR |
fabrics |
A coarse, hand-woven,
low grade of cotton fabric made in India from native yarns. |
A coarse, hand-woven,
low grade of cotton fabric made in India from native yarns. |
| KHADIE |
fabrics |
An Indian cotton
similar to khaddar but with fringed ends. Used for towelling. |
An Indian cotton
similar to khaddar but with fringed ends. Used for towelling. |
| KIBISU |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Frisons. |
See Frisons. |
| KICK TAPE |
accessories |
Also called Trouser
binding. |
Also called Trouser
binding. A narrow fabric, often Paris binding, used on
trouser leg bottoms. |
| KID |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
The coat of the
young deer |
1. The coat of
the young deer. Usually marked grey, white and black.
Very soft, but hardwearing.
2. The skin of the young goat. Easy to sew. It is mainly
used for gloves. Heavy varieties are used for shoes. |
| KIDDERMINISTER
CARPET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
See under Ingrain
carpet. |
See under Ingrain
carpet. |
| KIER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A large metal container
in which yarn or cloth can be boiled and bleached |
A large metal container
in which yarn or cloth can be boiled and bleached |
| KIER BOIL |
processes, operations |
Also called Kiering. |
Also called Kiering.
The process of prolonged boiling of cotton or flax materials
with alkaline liquors in a kier, either at or above atmospheric
pressure. See also Open boil, Pressure boil. |
| KIERING |
processes, operations |
See Kier boil. |
See Kier boil. |
| KINDERGARTEN CLOTH |
fabrics |
A sturdy fabric
in plain weave with yarn-dyed warp stripes. |
A sturdy fabric
in plain weave with yarn-dyed warp stripes. Two single
warps are woven as one. Used for children's sunsuits,
doll's dresses and bunting |
| KINETIC FRICTION |
general |
Friction developed
between two bodies in motion. Compare Static friction. |
Friction developed
between two bodies in motion. Compare Static friction. |
| KING OF FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Cotton fibre. |
See Cotton fibre. |
| KING'S CORD |
fabrics |
See Corduroy. |
See Corduroy. |
| KINK |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
Also called Centre loop, Curl, Filling snarl, Kink-in,
Kinky thread, Looped yarn, Snarl. A place in a yarn where
a short length of yarn, that has spontaneously doubled
back on itself to form a loop |
| KINK-IN |
defects |
See Kink |
See Kink |
| KINKING |
processes, operations |
The doubling back
of a yarn on itself to relieve torque given by twisting
or texturing. |
The doubling back
of a yarn on itself to relieve torque given by twisting
or texturing. |
| KINKY FILLING |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
Short weft yarn loops, caused by tension release of the
weft yarn before the loom turns over for the proper timing
of the opening of the shed of the warp yarns. The three
actions of the loom, viz. shedding, picking, and beating
up must synchronise to the decimal part of a second; otherwise
kinks are likely to occur. |
| KINKY THREAD |
defects |
See Kink |
See Kink |
| KISS PRINTING |
processes, operations |
See Relief printing
and Surface printing. |
See Relief printing
and Surface printing. |
| KITSCH |
fabrics |
Design lacking
restraint; excessive decoration for the purpose of embellishment. |
Design lacking
restraint; excessive decoration for the purpose of embellishment.
Term coined in Gernany. In products, kitsch represents
too much sheen, gilt, and lustre; it may be fake marble,
poor reproductions or fussy frills. |
| KNABS |
general |
A term used in
England for silk waste obtained in reeling. |
A term used in
England for silk waste obtained in reeling. |
| KNEE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| KNEE GIRTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| KNEE LIFTER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In sewing machine,
a lever under the sewing machine table, |
In sewing machine,
a lever under the sewing machine table, which when operated
by the machinist's knee, lifts the presser foot. |
| KNICKER YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Knickerbocker
yarn |
See Knickerbocker
yarn |
| KNICKERBOCKER YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A type of fancy
yarn, also called Knicker yarn, Nepp yarn |
A type of fancy
yarn, also called Knicker yarn, Nepp yarn. A yarn made
on the woollen system and showing strongly contrasting
spots on its surface that are made either by dropping
in small balls of wool at the latter part of the carding
process or by incorporating them in the blend and so setting
the carding machine that these small lumps are not carded
out. |
| KNICKERBROCKER
TWEED |
fabrics |
A tough wool fabric
or mixture of wool and cotton with characteristic coloured
flecks |
A tough wool fabric
or mixture of wool and cotton with characteristic coloured
flecks; made with knickerbrocker yarns |
| KNIFE PLEATS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Pleats with the
folds lying flat and facing in one direction. |
Pleats with the
folds lying flat and facing in one direction. |
| KNIT BRAID |
accessories |
A cord produced
on a small-diameter knitting machine with oscillating
feeders. |
A cord produced
on a small-diameter knitting machine with oscillating
feeders. |
| KNIT TUBING |
fabrics |
A circular knitted
cloth without seams. |
A circular knitted
cloth without seams. Sheath-style dresses, skirts and
sleeves may be made in this way |
| KNIT, DOUBLE |
fabrics |
See Double knit. |
See Double knit. |
| KNIT, SINGLE |
fabrics |
See Single knit. |
See Single knit. |
| KNIT-DE KNIT TEXTURING |
processes, operations |
See under Textured
yarn. |
See under Textured
yarn. |
| KNITS |
fabrics |
See Knitted fabrics |
See Knitted fabrics |
| KNITTED BLANK |
fabrics |
Also called Garment
blank. |
Also called Garment
blank. A piece of fabric from which a garment portion
or portions are cut, and whose width and length relates
to that garment portion. It also incorporates shaping
by changes of stitch size or type. Invariably the lowest
edge, the bottom of the blank, is a welt. |
| KNITTED FABRICS |
fabrics |
A structure produced
by interlooping one or more ends of yarn or comparable
material; a fabric constructed from intermeshed loops |
A structure produced
by interlooping one or more ends of yarn or comparable
material; a fabric constructed from intermeshed loops.
There are three recognised looped constructions used for
the manufacture of knitted fabrics; Warp knitted fabric,
Weft knitted fabric and Crochet knitted fabric. See Warp
knitting, Weft knitting and Crochet knitting under Knitting. |
| KNITTED FLAT RUCHE |
accessories |
See under Ruche |
See under Ruche |
| KNITTED GARMENTS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A substantial quantity
of apparels are now being made from knitted fabrics, and
its popularity is steadily increasing all over the world. |
A substantial quantity
of apparels are now being made from knitted fabrics, and
its popularity is steadily increasing all over the world.
Knitting is used to produce garments that cover every
part of the human body, in a wide range of garment types
from socks, caps, gloves and underwear to upper and lower
body garments varying from T-shirts to formal jackets.
The most salient property of knitted fabric is its extensibility,
which is in sharp contrast to the general rigidity of
most woven fabrics.
The principal feature of garments made from knitted fabric
is that the nature of the final garment and the processing
it goes through are affected in a major way by the primary
knitting process.
All knitted garments are classified into four classes
according to general production methods:
1. Fully cut garments,
2. Stitch shaped cut garments,
3. Fully fashioned garments, and
4. Integral garments.
See Fully cut garments, Stitch shaped cut garments, Fully
fashioned garments, and Integral gar-ments. |
| KNITTED LOOP |
fabrics |
A single unit of
weft knitted fabric consisting of a loop of yarn intermeshed
above and below with different threads |
A single unit of
weft knitted fabric consisting of a loop of yarn intermeshed
above and below with different threads, and usually sharing
the same thread with the loops on either side.
At the point of mesh with the previously formed loop,
a knitted loop is usually open but may be crossed. |
| KNITTED PILE CARPET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A carpet made on
either warp knitting or weft knitting machines |
A carpet made on
either warp knitting or weft knitting machines |
| KNITTING |
fabrics |
One of the most
important processes for producing fabrics. The action
of forming fabrics by the intermeshing of loops. |
One of the most
important processes for producing fabrics. The action
of forming fabrics by the intermeshing of loops. There
are three recognised looped constructions:
Warp knitting:
Warp knitting is characterised by the structural threads
of the fabric running along the length of the fabric approximately
parallel with the selvage. One horizontal row of loops,
or 'course', is made from many threads.
Warpknitted fabrics are mainly flat, closer knit, ladders
less easily and are more stable than weft-knitted. Extra
inlaid weft yarns can be used to increase stability. Warp
knitting is done on Tricot and Raschel machines; both
having different kinds of needles.
In Tricot, one or more sets of yarns are used, e.g. for
one-bar tricot the yarn is knitted first in one di-rection,
then in the opposite; in two-bar tricot using two sets,
one is knitted in one direction, the other in the opposite.
Many warp-knitted fabrics are 'locknit' construction,
the stitches locked to prevent runs.
Weft knitting:
Fabric in which the constituent threads generally pass
from side to side of the fabric, along the ad-vancing
line of construction. Weft knitted fabrics are characterised
by the structural threads being perpendicular to the selvage
of the fabric. One horizontal row of loops or 'course'
of such a fabric is normally made from one or very few
threads; the yarn goes back and forth across the fabric
(weft-ways) to make a flat fabric and goes round and round
to make a circular or tubular fabric. The basic stitches
are plain, purl and rib. An extra yarn may be laid across,
but not looped, to give greater sta-bility. There are
various types of weft knitting machines to produce simple
fabrics for seamless hose and underwear, complicated cloth;
for fully fashioned hosiery, underwear and outerwear;
and intri-cate design fabrics like interlock, double knitted,
etc.
Crochet:
Unlike the other two constructions, it is solely hand-made.
One thread is used which chains upon it-self, and cross-links
are formed with previously formed chain to generate fabric |
| KNITTING DEFECTS |
defects |
Knitted fabric
has characteristic defects that occur as a result of the
construction of the fabric. |
Knitted fabric
has characteristic defects that occur as a result of the
construction of the fabric. They can be categorised into
horizontal and vertical components.
One type of main horizontal fault is different course
lengths being incorporated into the fabric. When some
courses are wildly out of specification and differ from
one another, the fabric has hori-zontal bars that degrade
its appearance and lower its perceived quality. If the
mean value of the course length is out of specification,
every other fabric property is also affected.
Most other faults that result in horizontal barring are
connected in some respect to the yarn used. They include:
Uneven counts between yarns,
Uneven counts within yarns,
Different dyeing shades between yarns,
Different dyeing within one yarn,
Different spinning/batch source of yarns,
Different bulking/heat treatment given to synthetic man-made
yarns.
There are other faults specific to certain yarn and fibre
types, but all these faults characterise them-selves as
bars across the fabric, of density, colour or lustre.
Vertical faults usually result from the knitting process
but can occur with finishing. A common ver-tical fault
is a needle line. At its most benign a faulty needle may
produce a wale slightly larger or smaller, or distorted
loops. Such lines may or may not result in the rejection
of fabric or garment, but they nevertheless produce an
obvious lowering of its quality.
Really faulty needles result in vertical lines of occasional
or frequent tuck stitches, or occasional or frequent cut
stitches where the yarn actually parts, with consequential
holes. Tucking and cutting can sometimes occur at random,
or through the whole piece, rendering it virtually useless.
In piece goods fabric produced on circular machines it
is sometimes possible to split the fabric down a single
bad wale line before finishing. Other solutions involve
the messy business of remov-ing damaged garment portions
from the cut lay and re-cutting.
Such faults in garment blanks or fully-fashioned panels
render them unusable. In these industries it is much more
likely that the knitter in control of the machines would
notice very early, and so pre-vent much wastage. |
| KNITTING ELEMENTS |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A generic term
describing the loop-forming parts of a knitting machine |
A generic term
describing the loop-forming parts of a knitting machine,
and those parts used to control and/or select the loop-forming
instruments. |
| KNITTING MACHINE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A machine for the
production of yarns, fabrics or garments by warp knitting
or weft knitting. |
A machine for the
production of yarns, fabrics or garments by warp knitting
or weft knitting. The different types of warp and weft-knitting
machines are classified and named, primarily, according
to (i) the type of fabric or garment they are intended
to produce, (ii) the type of needle used, (iii) the format,
arrangement and activation of their needles or needle
beds, (iv) the type of patterning con-trol used, and (v)
whether they are hand-operated or power-operated. |
| KNITWEAR |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A generic term
applied to all knitted outer garments except stockings
and socks |
A generic term
applied to all knitted outer garments except stockings
and socks |
| KNOCK-OFF LAP |
processes, operations |
In warp knitting,
a length or (lengths) of yarn received by a needle and
not pulled through the loop. |
In warp knitting,
a length or (lengths) of yarn received by a needle and
not pulled through the loop. |
| KNOP STITCH |
processes, operations |
In weft knitting,
a stitch giving a raised effect |
In weft knitting,
a stitch giving a raised effect, that consists of a held
loop and more than two tuck loops all of which are intermeshed
in the same course. |
| KNOP YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A type of fancy
yarn. |
A type of fancy
yarn. A yarn that contains prominent bunches of one or
more of its component threads, arranged at regular or
irregular intervals along its length. Sometimes a tie
yarn is used to hold the knops in place |
| KNOT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A joint in a yarn
made by tying two ends together. |
1. A joint in a
yarn made by tying two ends together. If the joint is
not properly done it may be a de-fect.
2. A measure of yarn, thread, etc. or quantity, which
varies with the fibre; it consists of a set number of
coils. Named for the knot which is tied following the
reeling process.
3. In the manufacture of Oriental rugs, the lacing or
tying of a yarn introduced into the web around the warp
yarns. There are two major types of knots used for this
purpose, the ghiordes, or Turkish knot, and the senna
or Persian knot. |
| KNOT DYEING |
processes, operations |
See Tie dyeing. |
See Tie dyeing. |
| KNOT WORK |
fabrics |
Porous fancywork
made by tatting, crocheting, or knotting, |
Porous fancywork
made by tatting, crocheting, or knotting, |
| KNOT YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See knop yarn. |
See knop yarn. |
| KNOT, LONG |
defects |
See Long knot |
See Long knot |
| KNOTLESS YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A ply yarn that
has no lumps or knots. |
A ply yarn that
has no lumps or knots. Yarns are spliced togerther by
hand or machine when neces-sary. |
| KNOTS |
seams, stitches |
See Bullion Stitch. |
See Bullion Stitch. |
| KNOTTED STITCH |
processes, operations |
In knitting, a
needle loop expanded over two wales |
In knitting, a
needle loop expanded over two wales. Applied to stockings,
the terms knotted stitch and Spread loop refer to expansion
over two wales and the stockings are described as 'mesh'
or (technically) 'half-point transfer'. The stitch has
ladder-resistant properties. |
| KNOTTER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A device for tying
knots, used in making yarn. |
A device for tying
knots, used in making yarn. |
| KNOTTING |
processes, operations |
The process of
tying two yarn ends together. |
1. The process
of tying two yarn ends together.
2. The tying of the ends of a new weaver's beam to their
corresponding ends on the old beam in the loom by hand
or machine. Also called as 'knotting-in', 'tying-in' and
'tying back' |
| KNOTTING-IN |
processes, operations |
See under Knotting |
See under Knotting |
| KNUBBS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Frisons. |
See Frisons. |
| KNUCKLE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See preferred term
Crimp. |
See preferred term
Crimp. |
| KOKAYU SILK |
fabrics |
A Japanese silk
fabric in the gum, made in a mottled effect. |
A Japanese silk
fabric in the gum, made in a mottled effect. |
| KOKO |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A Hawaiian term
for a knitted bag or bag made of net fabric employing
coir or hemp fibre. |
A Hawaiian term
for a knitted bag or bag made of net fabric employing
coir or hemp fibre. |
| KRAFT YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A yarn made by
twisting a strip of paper manufactured from wood pulp
by the sulphate process. |
A yarn made by
twisting a strip of paper manufactured from wood pulp
by the sulphate process. |
| KRAFTCORD |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A yarn made of
twisted kraft yarns used as a stuffer and/or backing in
carpet weaving. |
A yarn made of
twisted kraft yarns used as a stuffer and/or backing in
carpet weaving. It has a smooth texture and uniform thickness
and maintains its stiffness without sizing. The wet strength
of yarn is not less than 40% of the dry strength. |
| KUDZU FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A strong, water
resistant bast fibre obtained from Pueraria thunbergiana
in Asia |
A strong, water
resistant bast fibre obtained from Pueraria thunbergiana
in Asia where it has often been used for fabric. |
| KURIWATA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Wild
silk. |
See under Wild
silk. |
| KURUVA YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A coarse, two-ply
coir yarn, handspun on Malabar Coast of India. |
A coarse, two-ply
coir yarn, handspun on Malabar Coast of India. Used for
coarse matting. |
