| Jabot |
The neck opening of
the chemise, and its lace trimmings, showing through the opening at the
doublet. Early cra-vat of lace, often ready-made, worn during the 17th
century. The lace fell in a soft bunch to the upper chest and was either
knotted and draped or tied in a soft bow. |
| Jack |
1. A tempered steel
blade, with either high or low butts or both, whose pri-mary purpose is
to actuate the move-ment of the latch knitting needles when they are in
action on a knitting frame.
2. Part of a dobby head designed to serve as a lever in the operation of
the harness of a loom.
|
| Jackboot |
A heavy military boot
made of glossy black leather extending above the knee and worn
especially during the 17th and 18th centuries; a laceless military boot
reaching to the calf |
| Jacob’s Fleece |
The natural brown
shade of the Jacob’s sheep. |
| Jacket |
1. A garment for the
upper body usually having a front opening, collar, lapels, sleeves, and
pockets.
2. A textile product, woven or felted into tubular or sleeve form, ready
for covering and shrinking on a machine roll.
3. In polymer manufacture, an external shell around a reaction vessel.
For example, jacketed vessels are used when heat-transfer medium is
circulated around the vessel.
|
| Jaconet |
Thin, plain-weave
cotton fabric, heavier than cambric but similar in type, it is glazed on
the right side to produce a high lustre. Can be plain or have a stripe
or check pattern. May now contain a proportion of polyester fibre. Used
for men’s shirts, children’s clothes and pyjamas.
|
| Jacquard |
The name is associated
with the pro-duction of elaborate figured design fabrics with complex
patterns and large repeats containing hundreds or even thousands of
different interlac-ings. Jacquard weaving is an intricate method, which
uses a patterning mechanism, which gives individual control of up to
several hundred warp threads on the loom using punched cards to control
the movement of in-dividual groups of warp ends. Jac-quards are made
from almost any fi-bre and both self-colour and multi-colour designs are
popular. Fabrics fray readily, more so if made from silk or other
slippery fibres. As Jac-quard refers to the weave, all fabrics should
have some other notation, e.g. Cotton jacquard, Silk jacquard, etc.
|
| Jacquard Card |
A punched card used to
control a jac-quard mechanism. A series of such cards strung together
control the pro-duction of the required pattern. In many applications
jacquards are now controlled by endless paper or an elec-tronic store
instead of cards.
|
| Jacquard Drill |
A heavy drill fabric
made with con-trasting colours in warp and filling. |
| Jacquard Knit |
A pattern knit
directly into the fabric during the manufacturing process. Typically,
two or more colours are used. |
| Jacquard Loom |
Named after its
inventor Joseph Jacquard; at the time of its introduction it was almost a
revolution in the weaving industry, as it was a loom with tremendously
improved figuring capacity. A typical Jacquard machine would have a
number of ‘hooks’ arranged in rows. This give individual control of a
number of warp yarns in a repeat and they can be lifted in any required
sequence of interlacings. The interlacings are produced by using punched
cards, one card for each weft yarn inserted, and these cards are laced
together in a continuous loop. The cards punched in a separate machine
in accordance with the interlacings of the design. Larger machines, or a
number of machines linked together on the same loom, can extend
the available number of interlacings into thousands.
The selection and control of machine movements by the use of a
continuous pattern chain of some kind has led to the use of the name
Jacquard in other forms of fabric production, such as knitting and
embroidery. Magnetic tapes, micro chips and other electronic forms of
control represent the updating of this remarkable invention.
|
| Jacquard Mechanism |
1.In weaving, a
shedding mechanism, attached to a loom that gives individ-ual control of
up to several hundreds of warp threads and thus enables large figured
designs to be produced.
2. In knitting, a term in general use in the industry, applied to
mechanisms for the selection of knitting elements.
|
| Jacquard Weave |
Elaborate figured
weave produced on the Jacquard loom. The weave find usage mainly in
fabrics like brocades, tapestries, damasks etc. |
| Jacqmar |
A very sheer, fine
worsted fabric. Draping quality similar to silk. |
| Jade Green |
A light bluish green
colour. |
| Jaffer |
A plain-weave cotton
fabric with warp and weft in different colours producing a shot effect. |
| Jago |
A type of linen
fabric. |
| Jama |
Full-sleeved outerwear
for men, great-ly popular at the Moghul and Rajput courts and worn well
into the 19th century. Literally, "a garment, robe, vest, gown, coat.
|
| Jamaica |
A type of raw cotton
from the West Indies. |
| Jamavar |
1. A plain or twill
weave cashmere wool fabric made in Kashmir.
2. A wide-striped, coarse woollen shawl made chiefly in Punjab, India
|
| Jambeau |
A piece of medieval
armour for the leg below the knee. |
| Jamdanee |
A group of costly,
fine cotton muslins in elaborate woven designs, which were made on
handlooms in Dacca, Bangladesh. The modern counterpart is called Jandari
|
| Jamkalam |
A coarse cotton rug
without pile, made of native cotton in India. |
| Jammed |
A fabric in which the
ends are jammed so closely together that no more could be fitted in; a
jammed fabric is usually very stiff. |
| Jandari |
See under Jamdanee |
| Janghia
|
Short drawers, worn by
men and boys. From Sanskrit |
| Janus Cloth |
A double-faced worsted
fabric with a different colour on each side. |
| Japonais |
A very lightweight
silk poplin from several qualities of grey yarns. Used for summer
dresses, underwear, etc.
|
| Jappe |
A fine plain weave
fabric woven from continuous filament yarns. Originally silk, and have
approximately square construction. |
| Jaspè |
Hardwearing fabric
having a shaded appearance created by a warp thread jaspè yarn colour
pattern. Made of ei-ther multicoloured threads or different shades of
one colour. Small matching dots are sometimes woven into the fabric.
Used for curtains, chaircovers, bedspreads.
|
| Jaspè Carpet |
Carpet having a
flame-like regular pattern. It was traditionally produced by using pile
yarn dip-dyed in hanks to two tones of the same colour or two different
colours, in a fixed proportion of the lengths of the hanks in any one
lot. |
| Jasper |
A blackish green.
|
| Jaspè Yarn |
A filament yarn that
has the appearance of being, but is not, made of two
differently coloured yarns folded together. It is made by texturing
together two continuous filament yarns or different chemical
composition, e.g. nylon and polyester, and them dyeing only one of the
two components.
|
| Jaw Break |
Failure of a specimen,
during a tensile test, at the edge of the jaw or within 5mm of its
edge. |
| Java
|
A cotton fabric with
red, yellow and white stripes on red ground. Used mainly by the native
women I East Africa. |
| Java Canvas |
See Ada Canvas |
| Javanese |
A viscose cloth with a
spun weft and filament warp characterised by a dull sheen. |
| Jay |
A moderate blue. |
| J-box
|
A large J-shaped
vessel or structure used for the continuous steaming or wet processing
of textiles. The mate-rial enters the top of the long limb of the J, is
stored for a time, and with-drawn through the short limb.
etc |
| J-cut |
Uneven cutting of the
pile loops in tufted carpets caused by poor adjust-ment of knives and
hooks or excessive tension. |
| Jean |
A durable twilled
cotton cloth used especially for sportswear and work clothes.
Close-fitting pants made es-pecially of jean or denim [Usually used in
plural].Comes from the French word "Genes" used to describe the pants
sailors from Genoa once wore. While the historical definition implied
that all jeans were made of denim, jeans today usually refer to a
garment that has 5 pockets (two in the front, two in the back and a
small change pocket on the front right pocket) and this style can be
made using any kinds of fabrics be it corduroy, twills, or bull denim.
Medium weight, fine yarn, cotton-type, durable fabric with slight twill
lines. Lighter and finer than drill fa-bric. Used for slacks, skirting,
etc. Term now usually refers to slacks.
|
| Jean Weave |
Very hardwearing
cotton fabric, simi-lar to denim-drill, but usually softer, lighter and
finer to handle. Woven in 2/1 twill with a warp face (see below) showing
a fairly steep twill, the warp being more closely set than the weft. |
| Jeanette |
Lighter weight jean
fabrics are some-times called jeanette. These are mostly used for
linings.
|
| Jeans |
The year 2003 marks
the 150th anniversary of Levi Strauss settling in San Francisco,
becoming an American citizen and opening a dry good store. The year also
marks 130 years since Strauss and an associate, Jacob Davis, took out a
joint patent for ‘riveted waist-overalls’ - heavy duty work pants
reinforced with metal rivets at the corners of pockets, the base of the
fly and other stress points.
Since then, jeans have spread triumphantly around the world, evolving
from work pants to fashion icon and along the way becoming a sartorial
symbol of freedom, youth, independence, the pioneering spirit – and
sometimes much more than it.
In Germany, for instance, the Green Party’s Joschka Fischer, who later
became foreign minister, made an iconoclastic political statement back
in 1985 by wearing jeans and sneakers when he took oath as environment
minister for the state of Hesse. For many, the picture of the event
became a taboo-busting icon of post-war German history. Levi, whose
original first name was Loeb, was born in Buttenheim on February 26,
1829. His father Hirsch, like many other rural Jews, was a peddler,
travelling house to house to sell clothing and dry goods.
By the time was Levi Strauss was born, poverty and restrictive
legislation
had prompted local Jews to begin to emigrate to the United States. The
local Jewish community, in fact, dwindled steadily until it dissolved in
the 1890’s.
The death of Hirsch Strauss in 1846 from tuberculosis forced his widow
to sell up and make the move herself. She and the family’s three
youngest children, including Levi, joined two older Strauss sons who had
already emigrated and ran a dry goods business on New York’s Lower East
Side.
The rest, as they say, is history. Levi followed the lure of the
California Gold Rush and founded the clothing business that made him
both a wealthy man and a household name. It is said that, he ‘discovered
his personal vein of gold – not in the precious yellow metal, but in
blue cloth jeans’.
It was not known that Levi Strauss the father of blue jeans, was born in
Buttenheim until some 20 years ago, when a woman in Milwaukee
organizing a festival about German immigrants wrote the former mayor
asking for information.Officials made an intensive search of Jewish
birth and death records and emigration documents in the Bamberg state
archives and discovered that Strauss has indeed been born and spent his
childhood in one of the oldest house still standing in the village.
|
| Jeans/Denim |
Inexplicably, the two
names for the same fabric derive from the names of two entirely
different places. Denim comes from the French phrase serge de Nimes, or
serge from Nimes, a fab-ric produced in a town in Southern France. The
latter part of the phrase became corrupted into denim. Similarly, jeans
comes from Genoa, Italy. It comes from the French phrase jean fustian,
meaning a type of twilled, cotton fabric. The modern spelling has
existed since at least 1622. Jean in this phrase is a modern spelling of
Jannes, the Old French word for Genoa. Fustian in Medieval Latin
fustneum is cotton fabric. So, jean fustian is cotton fabric from Genoa.
. |
| Jedim |
See Dsedim |
| Jerk-in |
Fabric defect. It is
caused by an extra weft yarn being jerked by the shuttle and dragged
into the shed with the regular pick part way into the fabric, i.e.
extending only part of the way across the cloth. The defect will ap-pear
at the selvage. Depending on how close the patterns are cut to the
selvedge will determine whether the defect is major or minor. |
| Jerk-back |
See Jerk-in |
| Jerkin |
1. Outer doublet worn
in England in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. It was sleeveless
or with loose sleeves.
2. A close-fitting hip-length usually
sleeveless jacket
|
| Jenkins Fibre |
A commercial variety
of early matur-ing, prolific American cotton with staple approximately
2.22 to 2.54cm., long. |
| Jersey |
A generic term applied
to describe warp or weft knitted piece goods, usually stocking stitch,
made from any fibre, including cotton, wool, silk, nylon acetate,
triacetate, polyester, acrylic, modal. It has ‘give’ and elasticity and
is comfortable to wear. This term has not, as yet, been precisely
defined and can quite literally be applied to almost any kind of knitted
fabric. However, in general, the terms ‘single jersey’, and ‘double
jersey’ are commonly used Made of wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon,
and synthetics. Knitted on circular, flatbed or warp knitted methods
(later popular as a tricot-knit). Right side has lengthwise ribs
(wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with
good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to
its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs
and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look
very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable; it washes
very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and
had been used for fisherman's clothing.
|
| Jersey Fabric |
The consistent
interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitches to produces a fabric with a
smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back. Jersey
fabrics may be produced on either cir-cular or flat weft knitting
machines. |
| Jersey Gabardine |
Although Gabardine is
strictly speak-ing a woven fabric, many of the old terms have to be used
to describe new-effect fabrics. Jersey gabardine is a twill-effect
closely knitted polyester. It is usually in plain colours. Used for
trousers, jackets, etc. |
| Jersey Knit |
This fabric has a
definite smooth side - the outside - and a textured side - the inside. |
| Jersey Stitch |
A basic stitch used in
weft knitting, in which each loop formed in the knit is identical. The
jersey stitch is also called the plain, felt, or stockinet stitch.
|
| Jersey Velour |
Plush surfaced, knit
fabric with attractive velvety appearance. At the back it is a smooth
knit fairly stable fabric, while the pile on the right side is short and
soft. Fibre used is polyester with viscose pile. Made in attractive
plain colours. Used for soft dresses, blouses tops, jump suits,
T-shirts, etc.
|
| Jet |
1. A narrow strip of
fabric usually cut warpwise, sewn parallel to the pocket opening and
turned over the pocket mouth edge.
2. A device used to bulk yarns by in-troducing curls, coils, and loops
that are formed by the action of a high ve-locity stream, usually of air
or steam.
3. An intense black shade.
|
| Jet Craters |
Annular deposits that
sometimes form around the holes on the face of jets used in the
extrusion of viscose. (See also Jet rings.)
|
| Jet Dyeing |
A process for dyeing
polyester using pressure kettles that heat the dyes to a very high
temperature, which forces the dye into the fabric fibres. |
| Jet-dyeing Machine |
(1) A machine for
dyeing fabric in rope form in which the fabric is car-ried through a
narrow throat by dye-liquor circulated at a high velocity,
(2) A machine for dyeing garments in which the garments are circulated
by jets of liquid rather by mechanical means.
|
| Jet Loom |
A shuttleless loom
that carries the weft yarns through the shed by the use of a water jet.
|
| Jet Printing |
See Polychromatic
printing |
| Jet Rings |
Annular deposits
formed occasionally inside the holes of metal jets or spin-nerets when
used in the extrusion of viscose, particularly into coagulants
containing much zinc sulphate. |
| Jet Spinning |
A system of
staple-fibre spinning, which utilises air to apply the twisting couple
to the yarn during its forma-tion. The air is blown through small holes
arranged tangentially to the yarn surface and this causes the yarn to
rotate. The majority of systems using this technique produce fasciated
yarns, but by using two air jets operat-ing in opposing twist directions
it is possible to produce yarns with more controlled properties but of
more complex structure./TD> |
| Jetted Pocket |
A pocket-mouth on
which the edges are finished by the application of jet-tings. |
| Jetting |
See Jet
|
| Jet Texturing |
A continuous filament
yarn made from or containing thermoplastic fi-bres is injected into a
heated stuffer box either by feed rollers or through a plasticizing jet
of hot fluid (invariably air or steam). |
| Jewel Neck |
A high round neckline
resting simply at the base of the neck. |
| Jhabba |
Loose, tunic-like
garment. |
| Jhula |
A kind of blouse for
children. |
| Jhumb |
A covering for the
head and body made simply by tying a sheet or blan-ket at one end and
draped over the head. |
| Jig |
A machine in which
fabric in open width is transferred repeatedly back and forth from one
roller to another and passes each time through the relatively small
volume of a dye bath or other liquid. Jigs are usually used for dyeing,
scouring, bleaching and finishing.
|
| Jig Dyeing |
This is done in a jig,
vat, beck or ves-sel in an open formation of the goods. The fabric goes
from one roller to an-other through a deep dye bath until the desired
shade is achieved. |
| Jigger |
1. A style of lady’s
short, loose jacket
2. The button on the inside of a double-breasted coat (usually sewn with
a long shank).
|
| Jigger Stenter |
A stenter in which a
to-and-fro longi-tudinal motion can be given to the side frame carrying
the clip chain while the fabric is moved forward. The two side frames
are linked, one moving forward while the other moves back and vice versa
to impart a swinging motion to the fabric. This device is used in
finishing to reduce inter yarn bonding to produce a softer fabric. |
| Jigsaw Puzzle |
These puzzles are
especially made to receive Inkjet or Magic transfer paper. To attach the
transfer-paper simply iron it on the puzzle. |
| Jock |
Athletic supporter |
| Jockstrap |
Athletic supporter. |
| Jockey Cloth |
A high-grade
weft-faced fabric made with two ply silk in the warp and sin-gle botany
wool weft, in a two up, one down twill weave. The weft is packed in with
substantially more picks than ends. |
| Jockey Satin |
See Slipper satin. |
| Jodhpure |
Riding breeches cut
full through the hips and close-fitting from knee to ankle; an
ankle-high boot fastened with a strap that is buckled at the side |
| Johnny |
A short-sleeved
collarless gown that is open in the back and is worn by per-sons, as
hospital patients, undergoing medical examination or treatment. |
| Joseph |
A Latin word for a
long cloak worn especially by women in the 18th cen-tury
|
| Joining Line |
See Seam |
| Josephine Tricot |
A very open, crochet
fabric consisting of tightly crocheted rows connected at intervals by
double yarns.
|
| Jouy Print |
Cotton or linen fabric
printed with modern reproductions of 18th century French prints. Often,
monotone land-scapes or figure groups in red or blue on light or white
grounds.
|
| J-scray |
A ‘J’-shaped trough or
vessel for the processing of textiles from one proc-ess to another. The
long limb of the J forms an inclined plane on which the material
accumulates during the dwell period |
| Judo |
A structured cloth
constructed in va-rieties of piqué weave and usually made in cotton. |
| Jugan Nath |
A coarse longcloth
made in the Kota District, India. Used mainly for tur-bans and other
wearing apparel. |
| Jumbocord |
Synonym: ELEPHANT CORD
A type of thick, heavy-ribbed cordu-roy fabric used mainly for coats.
Though normally they are made with even ribs, sometimes ‘high-low’
(wide, high ribs alternating with smaller low ones), are also employed.
|
| Jumel Cotton |
A perennial tree
cotton. The species is uncertain, with gossypium brasilense and
gossypium vitifolium suggested. |
| Jump Boot |
A boot worn especially
by paratroo-pers. |
| Jumper |
Usually used in
plural. A loose blouse or jacket worn by workmen; a sleeve-less
one-piece dress worn usually with a blouse; a child's overall sweater. |
| Jumper Underpress |
A type of under
pressing machine, which has a steam heated buck and an iron, which is
mounted on the end of a swinging arm (jointed or straight). Pressure is
applied through a linkage from a foot pedal to the movable arm and so to
the iron. |
| Jumpsuit |
A coverall worn by
parachutists for jumping; a one-piece garment consist-ing of a blouse or
shirt with attached trousers or shorts |
| Junco |
A fibre obtained from
the shrub or small tree, koeberlinia spinosa. Used mainly for hard
matting, strong cord-age. |
| Jungle Cloth |
A trade name for
heavy, closely woven, cotton fabric made with more than 300 picks per
inch. It possesses good wind-resistant qualities. Used mainly for winter
clothes. |
| Junior |
A modelling term. A
model who fits this category is able to wear odd-size garments (5-7-9)
and is slender but not as tall as a high fashion model. |
| Junior Mannequin |
A mannequin size
rather than an age. It is often posed and made-up as a young, active
type of woman, but de-pending upon pose, make-up and wig style, the
junior mannequin can be a college freshman, young executive, or
sophisticated, mature lady. It wears a size 7 dress and averages about 5
ft. 8 ins. in height. Hip, bust and waist measurements will vary
slightly with the manufacturer and the fashion trends. |
| Junior Petite |
A special size and
type of mannequin which, depending upon the manufac-turer, will wear a
size 5 or 7 and aver-age about 5 ft. 5 ins. in height. It is of-ten
made-up and posed as the super-annuated, freckled and braided, saucy and
perky teenager, though with the right pose, make-up and wig can
represent the smaller woman. |
| Jupe |
From the Arabic djuba,
jacket. Jupe had two meanings from the Middle Ages on towards the mid
17th cen-tury, jacket and skirt. Only in 1672 did the dictionnaire de
l'académie francaise define the term jupe, "part of women's costume,
from the waist to the feet." the term had disappeared by then from men's
costume, except for the panels of certain garments. From the 1670s on
jupe/skirt corresponds with the modern meaning. In the 17th century
women wore three jupes one on top of the other, the modest a top skirt
which often trailed; the friponne in the middle, which covered the
secrète, the underskirt. The latter two reached the ground. |
| Justaucorps |
Male coat developed in
the second half of the 17th century. Tight fitting in the shoulders,
collarless and with flaring skirts and knee-length. The flare was
extended and made wider until the early 18th century. Later the coat
became narrow, cut away in the front and sides, with a standing
collar.(Second half of 18th century). Justeaucorps from French
"juste-au-corps" = close fitting on the body.
|
| Jute |
The fibre obtained
from the bast layer of the plants corchorus capsularis and corchorus
olitorius. Note 1: Commer-cially, jute is divided into two main classes,
white jute generally being as-sociated with corchorus capsularis, and
dark jute with corchorus olitorius. Note 2: Each of the above-noted
classes is further sub-divided into nu-merous grades denoting quality
and other characteristics.Soft, but coarse hardwearing fibres from the
inner bark of the round pod, jute corchorus capsularis, the long pod
jute, corcho-rus olitorius and from the inner bark of other closely
related plants, such as kenaf, sometimes referred to as ‘meshta’
hibiscus cannabinus. Jute fi-bre is similar in appearance to flax and
hemp but is characterized by the irregularity of its lumen.
Commercial-ly, jute is divided into two main classes; white jute
generally asso-ciated with the round pod jute and dark jute associated
with the long pod jute. Jute is light brown in colour, dif-ficult to
bleach, and unlike other vegetable fibres it has a moderately good
affinity for basic dyes. Not used for clothing. Finds maximum use in the
making of sacks and to a lesser extent in heavy textiles, upholstery.
|
| Jute Burlap |
Jute is used in
textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of
bright, homespun-effect dra-peries and wall coverings. Natural jute has
a yellow to brown or grey co-lour, with a silky lustre. It consists of
bundles of fibre held together by gummy substances that are
pertina-cious in character. It is difficult to bleach completely; so
many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in colour. Jute reacts
to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax. It has a good
resistance to microorgan-isms and insects. Moisture increases the speed
of deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute
works well for bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough
and coarse. This tends to keep stacks of bags in position and resist
slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets
for backing or base fabric. |
| Jute Butt |
The flaggy lower end
of jute fiber that is cut off in preparing jute for market. The fibers
are 0.4 to 1 inch in length. Jute butts are used in twines and coarse
bagging. |
| Jute Fibre |
An East Indian strong
coarse fibre used in mats, gunny sacks, cloth and rope. |
| Jute Rug Backing |
Plain weave jute
fabric in single con-struction. Characterised by stripes in two colours
with three yarns in each stripe. Used for rug backing.
|
| Jute Count |
The weight in pounds
of a spindle of 14,400 yards of yarn. |
| Jute-spun |
Descriptive of staple
yarn that has been prepared and spun on machinery originally designed
for spinning yarns from jute.
|
