| J-BOX |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A large J-shaped
vessel or structure used for the continuous steaming or
wet processing of textiles. |
A large J-shaped
vessel or structure used for the continuous steaming or
wet processing of textiles. The material enters the top
of the long limb of the J, is stored for a time, and withdrawn
through the short limb. |
| J-CUT |
defects |
Uneven cutting
of the pile loops in tufted carpets |
Uneven cutting
of the pile loops in tufted carpets caused by poor adjustment
of knives and hooks or excessive tension. |
| J-SCRAY |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A J-shaped trough
or vessel for the processing of textiles from one process
to another. |
A J-shaped trough
or vessel for the processing of textiles from one process
to another. The long limb of the J forms an inclined plane
on which the material accumulates during the dwell period. |
| JACKET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A textile product,
woven or felted into tubular or sleeve form |
A textile product,
woven or felted into tubular or sleeve form, ready for
covering and shrinking on a machine roll. |
| JACONET |
fabrics |
Thin, plain-weave
cotton fabric, heavier than cambric but similar in type,
it is glazed on the right side to produce a high luster |
Thin, plain-weave
cotton fabric, heavier than cambric but similar in type,
it is glazed on the right side to produce a high luster.
Can be plain or have a stripe or check pattern. May now
contain a proportion of polyester fibre. Used for men's
shirts, children's clothes and pajamas. |
| JACQMAR |
fabrics |
A very sheer, fine
worsted fabric. |
A very sheer, fine
worsted fabric. Draping quality similar to silk. |
| JACQUARD |
fabrics |
The name is associated
with the production of elaborate figured design fabrics
with complex patterns and large repeats containing hundreds
or even thousands of different interlacings. |
The name is associated
with the production of elaborate figured design fabrics
with complex patterns and large repeats containing hundreds
or even thousands of different interlacings. Jacquard
weaving is an intricate method which uses a patterning
mechanism which gives individual control of up to several
hundred warp threads on the loom using punched cards to
control the movement of individual groups of warp ends.
Jacquards are made from almost any fibre and both self-colour
and multi-colour designs are popular. Fabrics fray readily,
more so if made from silk or other slippery fibres. As
Jacquard refers to the weave, all fabrics should have
some other notation, e.g. Cotton jacquard, Silk jacquard,
etc |
| JACQUARD CARD |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A punched card
used to control a jacquard mechanism |
A punched card
used to control a jacquard mechanism. A series of such
cards strung together control the production of the required
pattern. In many applications jacquards are now controlled
by endless paper or an electronic store instead of cards |
| JACQUARD DRILL |
fabrics |
A heavy drill fabric
made with contrasting colours in warp and filling. |
A heavy drill fabric
made with contrasting colours in warp and filling. |
| JACQUARD KNIT |
fabrics |
Sectional patterns
or all-over design patterns in colour and texture produced
on knitting machines. |
Sectional patterns
or all-over design patterns in colour and texture produced
on knitting machines. |
| JACQUARD LOOM |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A typical Jacquard
machine would have a number of 'hooks' arranged in rows. |
Named after its
inventor Joseph Jacquard; at the time of its introduction
it was almost a revolution in the weaving industry, as
it was a loom with tremendously improved figuring capacity.
A typical Jacquard machine would have a number of 'hooks'
arranged in rows. This give individual control of a number
of warp yarns in a repeat and they can be lifted in any
required sequence of in-terlacings. The interlacings are
produced by using punched cards, one card for each weft
yarn in-serted, and these cards are laced together in
a continuous loop. The cards punched in a separate ma-chine
in accordance with the interlacings of the design. Larger
machines, or a number of machines linked together on the
same loom, can extend the available number of interlacings
into thousands.
The selection and control of machine movements by the
use of a continuous pattern chain of some kind has led
to the use of the name Jacquard in other forms of fabric
production, such as knitting and embroidery. Magnetic
tapes, micro chips and other electronic forms of control
represent the up-dating of this remarkable invention. |
| JACQUARD MECHANISM |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
IN WEAVING. A
shedding mechanism, attached to a loom |
1. IN WEAVING.
A shedding mechanism, attached to a loom, that gives individual
control of upto several hundred warp threads and thus
enables large figured designs to be produced.
2. IN KNITTING. A term in general use in knitting industry,
applied to mechanisms for the selection of knitting elements. |
| JACQUARD WEAVE |
fabrics |
Elaborate figured
weave produced on the Jacquard loom. |
Elaborate figured
weave produced on the Jacquard loom. The weave find usage
mainly in fabrics like brocades, tapestries, damasks and |
| JAFFER |
fabrics |
A plain weave cotton
fabric |
A plain weave cotton
fabric with warp and weft in different colours producing
a shot effect. |
| JAGO |
fabrics |
A type of linen
fabric |
A type of linen
fabric |
| JAIPUR PRINT |
fabrics |
See Jeypore print |
See Jeypore print |
| JAMAICA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A type of raw cotton
from the West Indies |
A type of raw cotton
from the West Indies |
| JAMAVAR |
fabrics |
A plain or twill
weave cashmere wool fabric made in Kashmir. |
An Indian term
used to describe:
1. A plain or twill weave cashmere wool fabric made in
Kashmir.
b. A wide-striped, coarse woollen shawl made chiefly in
Punjab, India |
| JAMDANEE |
fabrics |
A group of costly,
fine cotton muslins in elaborate woven designs |
A group of costly,
fine cotton muslins in elaborate woven designs, which
were made on handlooms in Dacca, Bangladesh. The modern
counterpart is called Jandari |
| JAMKALAM |
fabrics |
A coarse cotton
rug without pile, made of native cotton in India. |
A coarse cotton
rug without pile, made of native cotton in India. |
| JAMMED |
fabrics |
A fabric in which
the ends are jammed so closely together that no more could
be fitted in |
A fabric in which
the ends are jammed so closely together that no more could
be fitted in; a jammed fabric is usually very stiff. |
| JANDARI |
fabrics |
See Jamdanee |
See Jamdanee |
| JANUS CLOTH |
fabrics |
A double-faced
worsted fabric with a different colour on each side. |
A double-faced
worsted fabric with a different colour on each side. |
| JAP SILK |
fabrics |
Also called China
Silk. |
Also called China
Silk. Thin, almost papery silk fabric, in plain weave
and in plain colors, made in Northern China. Very light
and slippery. Used mainly for lining lightweight garments.
Do not find much use in outer clothes, due to its insufficient
weight and durability. |
| JAPONAIS |
fabrics |
A very light weight
silk poplin from several qualities of gray yarns |
A very light weight
silk poplin from several qualities of gray yarns. Used
for summer dresses, underwear, etc. See Helvetia. |
| JAPPE |
fabrics |
A fine plain weave
fabric woven from continuous filament yarns |
A fine plain weave
fabric woven from continuous filament yarns, originally
silk, and of approximately square construction |
| JASPÈ |
fabrics |
Also called Jasper. |
Also called Jasper.
Hardwearing fabric having a shaded appearance created
by a warp thread jaspè yarn colour pattern. Made
of either multicolored threads or different shades of
one color. Small matching dots are sometimes woven into
the fabric. Used for curtains, chaircovers, bedspreads. |
| JASPÈ CARPET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Carpet having a
flame-like regular pattern |
Carpet having a
flame-like regular pattern. It was traditionally produced
by using pile yarn dip-dyed in hanks to two tones of the
same colour or two different colours, in a fixed proportion
of the lengths of the hanks in any one lot. |
| JASPÈ YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A filament yarn
that has the appearance of being, but is not, made of
two differently coloured yarns folded together. |
A filament yarn
that has the appearance of being, but is not, made of
two differently coloured yarns folded together. It is
made by texturing together two continuous filament yarns
or different chemical composition, e.g. nylon and polyester,
and them dyeing only one of the two components. |
| JASPER |
fabrics |
See Jaspè. |
See Jaspè. |
| JAVA |
fabrics |
A cotton fabric
with red, yellow and white stripes on red ground. |
A cotton fabric
with red, yellow and white stripes on red ground. Used
mainly by the native women I East Africa |
| JEAN |
fabrics |
Very hardwearing
cotton fabric, similar to denim-drill, but usually softer,
lighter and finer to handle |
Very hardwearing
cotton fabric, similar to denim-drill, but usually softer,
lighter and finer to handle. Woven in 2/1 twill with a
warp face (see below) showing a fairly steep twill, the
warp being more closely set than the weft
Made in plain colors only, sometimes in herringbone weave.
Originally made for protective clothing and lining, but
now widely adapted for leisurewear also in a wide range
of colors. Used for overalls, dungarees, children's clothes,
etc |
| JEANETTE |
fabrics |
Lighter weight
jean fabrics are sometimes called jeanette |
Lighter weight
jean fabrics are sometimes called jeanette. These are
mostly used for linings. |
| JEDIM |
fabrics |
See Dsedim. |
See Dsedim. |
| JENKINS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A commercial variety
of early maturing, prolific American cotton |
A commercial variety
of early maturing, prolific American cotton with staple
approximately 2.22 to 2.54 cm long. |
| JERK-BACK |
defects |
See Jerk-in. |
See Jerk-in. |
| JERK-IN |
defects |
Also called Lash-in,
Jerk-back, Pull-in. Fabric defect. |
Also called Lash-in,
Jerk-back, Pull-in. Fabric defect. It is caused by an
extra weft yarn being jerked by the shuttle and dragged
into the shed with the regular pick part way into the
fabric, i.e. extending only part of the way across the
cloth. The defect will appear at the selvage. Depending
on how close the patterns are cut to the selvedge will
determine whether the defect is major or minor. (Compare
Double pick.) |
| JERSEY |
fabrics |
A generic term
applied to describe warp or weft knitted piece goods,
usually stocking stitch, made from any fibre, including
cotton, wool, silk, nylon acetate, triacetate, polyester,
acrylic, modal. It has 'give' and elasticity and is comfortable
to wear. |
A generic term
applied to describe warp or weft knitted piece goods,
usually stocking stitch, made from any fibre, including
cotton, wool, silk, nylon acetate, triacetate, polyester,
acrylic, modal. It has 'give' and elasticity and is comfortable
to wear. This term has not, as yet, been precisely defined
and can quite literally be applied to almost any kind
of knitted fabric. However, in general, the terms 'single
jersey', and 'double jersey' are commonly used.
Single jersey: Refers to a plain or modified plain knitted
fabric (usually weft knitted) used as piece goods, made
in a machine having one set of needles. In consequence
the fabric is simple in structure and therefore not very
stable. Bonding techniques are used as a means of adding
stability to single jersey. Used as piece goods. Being
simple in structure single jersey is cheaply and quickly
made.
Double jersey: Is taken to mean a fabric knitted on a
machine with two sets of needles and the fab-ric can be
knitted on a machine with two sets of needles and the
fabric can be knitted on the inter-lock principle and
patterns can be formed by interchanging yarns between
face and back needles. Rib weft knitted fabric or modified
rib weft knitted fabric, used as piece goods.
These fabrics are more stable than single jersey because
yarns are not required to show on the face are knitted
into the back thus avoiding long floats and loose structurre.
They are slower to make and more expensive than single
jersey fabrics. |
| JERSEY GABARDINE |
fabrics |
Although Gabardine
is strictly speaking a woven cloth, many of the old terms
have to be used to de-scribe new-effect fabrics |
Although Gabardine
is strictly speaking a woven cloth, many of the old terms
have to be used to de-scribe new-effect fabrics. Jersey
gabardine is a twill-effect closely knitted polyester.
It is usually in plain colors. Used for trousers, jackets,
etc. |
| JERSEY VELOUR |
fabrics |
Plush surfaced,
knit fabric with attractive velvety appearance. At the
back it is a smooth knit fairly stable fabric, while the
pile on the right side is short and soft |
Plush surfaced,
knit fabric with attractive velvety appearance. At the
back it is a smooth knit fairly stable fabric, while the
pile on the right side is short and soft. Fibre used is
polyester with viscose pile. Made in attractive plain
colours. Used for soft dresses, blouses tops, jump suits,
T-shirts, etc. See Pile knit. |
| JET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A narrow strip
of fabric, usually cut warpwise, sewn parallel to the
pocket opening and turned over the pocket mouth edge |
A narrow strip
of fabric, usually cut warpwise, sewn parallel to the
pocket opening and turned over the pocket mouth edge |
| JET LOOM |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A shuttleless loom |
A shuttleless loom
that carries the weft yarns through the shed by the use
of a water jet. See also Shuttleless loomS |
| JET PRINTING |
processes, operations |
See Polychromatic
printing. |
See Polychromatic
printing. |
| JET SPINNING |
processes, operations |
See Air-jet spinning. |
See Air-jet spinning. |
| JET-DYEING MACHINE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A machine for
dyeing fabric in rope form |
1. A machine for
dyeing fabric in rope form in which the fabric is carried
through a narrow throat by dye-liquor circulated at high
velocity.
2. A machine for dyeing garments in which garments are
circulated by jets of liquid rather than by mechanical
means. |
| JETTED POCKET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A pocket-mouth
on which the edges are finished by the application of
jettings. |
A pocket-mouth
on which the edges are finished by the application of
jettings. |
| JETTING |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Se Jet. |
Se Jet. |
| JEYPORE PRINT |
fabrics |
See Jaipur print |
See Jaipur print |
| JIG |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Also called Jigger. |
Also called Jigger.
A machine in which fabric in open width is transferred
repeatedly back and forth from one roller to another and
passes each time through the relatively small volume of
a dyebath or other liquid. Jigs are usually used for dyeing,
scouring, bleaching and finishing. |
| JIGGER |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies, apparatus, equipage, tools |
A style of lady's
short, loose jacket. |
1. A style of lady's
short, loose jacket.
2. The button on the inside of a double-breasted coat
(usually sewn with a long shank).
3. See Jig. |
| JIGGER STENTER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A stenter in which
a to-and-fro longitudinal motion can be given to the side
frame carrying the clip chain while the fabric is moved
forward. |
A stenter in which
a to-and-fro longitudinal motion can be given to the side
frame carrying the clip chain while the fabric is moved
forward. The two side frames are linked, one moving forward
while the other moves back and vice versa to impart a
swinging motion to the fabric. This device is used in
finishing to reduce inter yarn bonding to produce a softer
fabric |
| JOB FINISHER |
general |
See Commision finisher |
See Commision finisher |
| JOCKEY CLOTH |
fabrics |
A high-grade weft-faced
fabric made with two ply silk in the warp and single botany
wool weft, in a two up, one down twill weave. |
A high-grade weft-faced
fabric made with two ply silk in the warp and single botany
wool weft, in a two up, one down twill weave. The weft
is packed in with substantially more picks than ends. |
| JOCKEY SATIN |
fabrics |
See Slipper satin. |
See Slipper satin. |
| JOINING LINE |
general |
See Seam. |
See Seam. |
| JOSEPHINE TRICOT |
fabrics |
A very open, crochet
fabric |
A very open, crochet
fabric consisting of tightly crocheted rows connected
at intervals by double yarns |
| JOUY PRINT |
processes, operations |
Cotton or linen
fabric printed with modern reproductions of 18th century
French prints. |
Cotton or linen
fabric printed with modern reproductions of 18th century
French prints. Often monotone landscapes or figure groups
in red or blue on light or white grounds. Also called
Toile de jouy. |
| JUGAN NATH |
fabrics |
A coarse longcloth
made in the Kota District, India. |
A coarse longcloth
made in the Kota District, India. Used mainly for turbans
and other wearing apparel. |
| JUMBO CORD |
fabrics |
See under Corduroy. |
See under Corduroy. |
| JUMEL COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A perennial tree
cotton. |
A perennial tree
cotton. The species is uncertain, with Gossypium brasilense
and Gossypium vitifolium suggested. |
| JUMPER UNDERPRESS |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A type of underpressing
machine, which has a steam heated buck and an iron which
is mounted on the end of a swinging arm (jointed or straight). |
A type of underpressing
machine, which has a steam heated buck and an iron which
is mounted on the end of a swinging arm (jointed or straight).
Pressure is applied through a linkage from a foot pedal
to the movable arm and so to the iron. |
| JUNCO |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A fibre obtained
from the shrub or small tree, Koeberlinia spinosa. |
A fibre obtained
from the shrub or small tree, Koeberlinia spinosa. Used
mainly for hard matting, strong cordage |
| JUNGLE CLOTH |
fabrics |
A trade name for
heavy, closely woven, cotton fabric |
A trade name for
heavy, closely woven, cotton fabric made with more than
300 picks per inch. It possesses good wind-resistant qualities.
Used mainly for winter clothes. |
| JUTE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Soft, but coarse
hardwearing fibres from the inner bark of the round pod
jute ('Corchorus capsularis'), the long pod jute ('Corchorus
olitorius') and from the inner bark of other closely re-lated
plants, such as kenaf, sometimes referred to as 'Meshta'
('Hibiscus cannabinus'). |
Soft, but coarse
hardwearing fibres from the inner bark of the round pod
jute ('Corchorus capsularis'), the long pod jute ('Corchorus
olitorius') and from the inner bark of other closely re-lated
plants, such as kenaf, sometimes referred to as 'Meshta'
('Hibiscus cannabinus'). Jute fibre is similar in appearance
to flax and hemp but is characterized by the irregularity
of its lumen. Com-mercially, jute is divided into two
main classes; white jute generally associated with the
round pod jute and dark jute associated with the long
pod jute. Jute is light brown in colour, difficult to
bleach, and unlike other vegetable fibres it has a moderately
good affinity for basic dyes. Not used for cloth-ing.
Finds maximum use in the making of sacks and to a lesser
extent in heavy textiles, upholstery. |
| JUTE RUG BACKING |
fabrics |
Plain weave jute
fabric in single construction. |
Plain weave jute
fabric in single construction. Characterized by stripes
in two colours with three yarns in each stripe. Used for
rug backing |
| JUTE-SPUN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Descriptive of
staple yarn that has been prepared and spun on machinery
originally designated for spinning yarn from jute |
Descriptive of
staple yarn that has been prepared and spun on machinery
originally designated for spinning yarn from jute |
