| Iaedryun |
A
short jacket, often richly embroidered, worn mostly in Kutch and
Saurashtra, in combination with an embroidered pyjama (q.v.). |
| Ice Colours |
See Azoic dyes and Azoic dyeing. |
| Ice Cream |
A colour similar to that of vanilla ice cream. |
| Ice Dyes |
See Azoic dyes, Azoic dyeing |
| Ice Skate |
AA shoe with a metal runner attached for ice-skating |
| Iceland Wool |
The
wool from Iceland sheep, those have an outer covering of long coarse
hair and a fine woolly undergrowth. This undergrowth is used for
sweaters and shawls. |
| Identification Test |
A
procedure involved in determining facts about textiles, such as kind of
fibres, yarns, construction, finish, and colouring. Physical, chemical,
microscopical or other techniques may be used. |
| IFCATI |
Acronym
for 'International Federation of Cotton and Allied Textile Industries.
A textile oriented group, covering industries in most of the principal
textile producing nations of the Free World. Promotes interest of its
members through research, consultation, cooperation, and action on a
world level. Enjoys consultative status with the United Nations. |
| IFI |
Acronym
for 'International Fabricare Institute. The group is representative of
all forms of industrial and domestic laundering, dry cleaning, and
related services. It was formed in 1972 via a merger between the
National Institute of Dry cleaning, and the American Institute of
Laundering. |
| Ignition |
The initiation of combustion. |
| Ihram |
A white cotton cloth devoid of needlework, worn by pilgrims to Mecca. |
| Ikat |
A traditional technique resulting in a streaky effect, created by tying and dyeing lengths of yarn before weaving.
|
| Ikat Dyeing |
A
process of dyeing originated in Indonesia and Malaysia in which a warp
is dyed to a pattern through the use of resist agent. The warp is made
first in rope form and predetermined sections are bound tightly to
protect that section from the dye. When the warp is opened out after
dyeing, a pattern is shown on the warp, which comes through into the
woven fabric (warp ikat). A variation can be achieved by dyeing the
weft yarn in a similar way (weft ikat) and in some cases both warp and
weft may be treated (double ikat). Careful control and planning can
give interesting and unusual figured effects in the cloth. The pattern
shapes tend to have soft edges due to some relative movement of the
threads in weaving, and a certain amount of bleeding and capillary
action in the dye process. |
| Ikat Fabric |
Fabric made from ikat dyed materials. |
| IMA |
Acronym
for 'International Mohair Association'. An association of major
producers and users of mohair whose basic aim is to promote use of
mohair throughout the world and to establish an international mohair
mark on all products made of the luxury fibre. Its purpose is similar
to the International Wool Secretariat. |
| Illuminated Discharge |
See Colour discharge printing |
| Illumination |
1.In lighting, the density or flux of light on a unit area of surface.
2. A term used to describe any soft sheet net or tulle. Mainly used for veils and dresses.
|
| Illusion |
A
very fine, all-silk tulle, which originated in France. It has a cobweb
appearance. Hexagonal open mesh. Made in 52 inch and 72 inch widths.
Used in veils, particularly for weddings, trimmings.
Characteristics: A very fine, all-silk tulle, which originated in
France. It has a cobweb appearance. Hexagonal open mesh. Made in 52
inch and 72 inch widths. |
| Illusion Bodice |
A bodice made of sheer material giving the illusion of no bodice.
|
| Illusion Sleeve |
A sleeve made of sheer material giving the illusion of no sleeve.
|
| Illustrator |
A
modelling term. Also called a fashion illustrator. This is someone who
draws fashion for advertising or editorial purposes. Many use models to
pose in the clothes they are required to draw so that their renderings
are accurate. |
| Ilocano Cloth |
A bright coloured, striped or checked, cotton fabric woven in Philippines. Used mainly for swimwear, active sportswear. |
| Imberline |
A woven fabric with various coloured stripes in the warp often separated by gold thread. Used in upholstery, drapery.
A Jacquard fabric with a wide stripe woven in the design.
|
| Imberline Stripe |
A
fabric, woven in one piece but appearing to be composed of a series of
different strips joined by gold and silk galloon. It is actually a
fabric woven with various coloured and patterned stripes, separated by
gold stripes. |
| Imbibition |
A measure of a textile material's ability to hold liquid.
|
| Imbrocado |
A silver or gold trimming fabric. |
| Imitation Alpaca |
See under Alpaca |
| Imitation Mock Gauze |
See under Perforated weave |
| Imitation Silk |
A
term occasionally used in the past for mercerised cotton yarn and
viscose. Trade and governmental regulations classify this term as a
misnomer. |
| Imitation Velvet |
Plain weave with small tufts or fibres fixed by adhesive.
|
| Immature Cotton |
Cotton
in which the thickening of the fibre wall is appreciably less than
usual., note. If growth conditions are not favourable, possibly as a
result of attack by disease or through plant senility, or occasionally
because of the genetic nature of the variety, the secondary-wall
thickening may first be delayed and then proceed at a reduced rate or
wall development may cease prematurely: the ripened boil will contain a
high proportion of developed immature fibres
|
| Immature Cotton Fibre |
A term used in relation to cotton maturity. Fibre where little wall thickening has taken place during cotton growth. |
| Immediate Elastic Deformation |
Recoverable
deformation which is essentially independent of time, that is,
occurring in (a time approaching) zero time and recoverable (a time
approaching) zero time after removal of the applied force. |
| Immersion Dyeing |
Process of dyeing a fabric in which the fabric is submerged in a dye bath. |
| Immersion Testing |
A
measure of the properties of fibres, yarns or fabrics when saturated
with a liquid. The test is performed with the sample immersed in the
liquid. |
| Immunized Cotton |
Cotton
that has been treated to resist ordinary cotton-dyes; the chemical
structure has been converted into an ester of cellulose. Acetic
anhydride is one of the principal agents employed in the treatment.
Immunized cotton responds to dyes suitable for acetate rayon. |
| Impact Resistance |
The resistance to fracture under the sudden application of an external force.
|
| Impact Texturing |
The yarn is plasticized by passage through a jet of hot fluid and is impacted on to a cooling surface. See also Texturising |
| Impact Texturing |
A
continuous filament yarn made from or containing thermoplastic fibres
is plasticized by passing through a jet of hot fluid and is impacted on
to a cooling surface. |
| Imperfect Selvedges |
Fabric
defect. These include Blaky selvedge, Beaded selvedge, Broken selvedge,
Corded selvedge, Curled selvedge, Cut selvedge, Damaged selvedge,
Dog-legged selvedge, Doubled selvedge, Drawn selvedge, Folded selvedge,
Looped selvedge, Loose edge, Rolled selvedge, Scalloped selvedge, Slack
selvedge, Tight selvedge, Torn selvedge, etc. |
| Imperial Cloth |
Coating
fabric of fine worsted in twill weave. Imperial serge is similar, but
softer and looser woven. Both are firm, durable clothes, usually dyed
navy blue, and used for coats, capes, and if shower proofed for
raincoats. |
| Imperial Sateen |
A
heavily wefted fabric based on an eight-end sateen weave with one or
more extra risers added. The weft face may be smooth or raised. See
also Beaverteen, Fustian |
| Impregnated Fabric |
A
fabric in which the interstices between the yarns are completely filled
with the impregnating compound throughout the thickness of the
material, as distinguished from sized or coated materials, where these
interstices are not completely filled.
A fabric woven from impregnated yarns, but not impregnated after
weaving, is not an impregnated fabric. |
| Impregnated Yarn |
A yarn in which the interstices are filled with an impregnating compound.
|
| Impregnation |
The process of treating a fabric with a functional compound. |
| Impression |
Surface unevenness developed during pressing, usually around areas of extra thickness, such as pockets and seams. |
| Impression Mark |
See Emboss mark
|
| Incarnadine |
Having the pinkish colour of flesh; red, especially blood red. |
| Inches Per Rack |
In
warp knitting, the length of fabric in one rack measured on the machine
under operating take-up tension. The phrase 'inches per rack' is
recommended for use in place of the word 'quality', previously used for
this concept. |
| Indanthrene |
An original vat dye; identified by its high colourfastness.
|
| India Blanket |
All-wool,
or woollen filling blankets woven with characteristic American Indian
designs. The genuine Indian handmade blanket is more of a rug than a
blanket. Today most Indian blankets are power loom woven. |
| India Chintz |
A heavy, strong chintz with large patterns used for upholstery.
|
| Indian Abutilon |
A
fine lustrous white fibre, yielded from abutilon graveolens, found in
South Asia and India, where it is abundant. Not used commercially, but
considered to have a potential as a textile material. |
| Indian Red |
A strong or moderate reddish brown. |
| Indian Blanket |
All
wool, woollen filling blankets woven with characteristic Indian
designs. The term should apply only to blankets actually handmade by
the Indians, and such blankets should be so marked. The genuine Indian
handmade blanket is more of a rug than a blanket. Today most Indian
blankets are power loom woven. |
| Indian Cotton |
A type of cotton fibre. Average fibre length 15 to 20mm., usually used only for coarse counts. |
| Indian Crêpe |
A cotton crêpe of rough unfinished appearance, used for blouses, men's shirts. |
| Indian Dhurrie |
See Dhurrie. |
| Indian Embroidery |
Needlework
done by natives of India in characteristic oriental design. Cloth
embroidery, chain-stitch embroidery, quilting and cashmere work are
included in this type of needlework. |
| Indian Silk |
Hand-loomed
silk fabric, not necessarily always made in India. Has a slightly
wrinkled impressed appearance, but it is crisp. Made in plain colours.
Used for saris, eveningwear and some furnishing items such as cushion
covers. |
| India Print |
Cotton
fabric printed with the characteristic native patterns in form and
content, usually hand blocked in glowing oriental colours. |
| India Tape |
A plain weave, narrow fabric, made from cotton using plied yarn as warp and single yarn in double pick weft. |
| Indicators |
For
acid-base titrations, organic compounds that exhibit different colors
in solutions of different acidities; used to determine the point at
which reaction between two solutes is complete.
|
| Indiennes |
In the 17th and 18th centuries the name given to all eastern painted and printed cloths, whatever their country of origin. |
| Indigo |
A type of blue dyestuff originally obtained from the indigo plant but now produced synthetically. Used for denim. |
| Indigo |
A
variable colour averaging a dark greyish blue. A natural dye material
of a deep blue colour. Natural Indigo is perhaps the oldest dye known
to man. The oldest historic texts speak of it, as in the colours chosen
for the Tabernacle of the Arc of the Covenant. The oldest fragments of
cloth are dyed with it. It was the original dye of the "Levi's" blue
jeans, a trademark colour for durability. Natural Indigo is one of the
fastest dyes known to man and is the only natural blue dye of
permanence. Indigo is a blue vat dyestuff that was originally taken
from the "Indigofera tinctoria" plant by fermenting the leaves of the
shrub. In 1897, fourteen years after Adolf von Bayer identified the
chemical structure of indigo, the chemical became synthetically
manufactured.Indigo's inherent features are good colourfastness to
water and light, a continually fading and its inability to penetrate
fibres completely. This allows the blue color in jeans made from indigo
to always look irregular and individual.There is no dyestuff like
it!.Development of synthetic indigo from coal tar products and other
hydrocarbon sources has made the use of natural indigo almost obsolete.
Vat dyes in big volume go into the dyeing of blue denim for work
cloths. See also Vat dyes |
| Indigo and Colour |
Refers to yarn dyed fabrics using a combinations of indigo dyed yarns and yarns of other colors together in the design. |
| Indigo and Over-printed |
Refers to printing done on an indigo denim, indigo chambray, or indigo dyed fabric. |
| Indigo Dye |
It
puts the blue in blue jeans. While indigo dye was originally extracted
from the Indigofera Tinctoria plant, today's indigos are man-made. |
| Indigo Dyed
|
Refers to a fabric which has been piece dyed with indigo dye. |
| Indigotin
|
The basic colouring substance of indigo. Synthetic or artificial indigo is almost pure indigotin.
|
| Indirect Warping
|
The transference of yarn from a package creel onto a swift from which it is subsequently wound onto a beam. |
| Indirect Warping |
The transference of yam from a package creel onto a swift from which it is subsequently wound onto a beam. |
| Indirect Yarn Numbering System
|
A system that expresses yarn number in length per unit mass or the reciprocal of linear density.
|
| Institutional Consumer
|
The
term used to describe individuals who use goods and services for their
businesses to produce other goods or to operate public institutions |
| Industrial Nylon
|
Heavy-duty
plain-weave nylon fabric made in a limited range of colours. Is fairly
stiff and does not crease. Used for overalls and protective clothing,
but is also useful for the bags of men's trouser pockets, as it is
extremely hardwearing. |
| Industrial Sheeting
|
A sheeting fabric, which serves as backing for artificial leather, boot and shoe lining, etc.
|
| Industrial Textiles |
1. A category of technical textiles used as part of an industrial process, or incorporated into final products.
2. Textile materials and products intended for end-uses other than
clothing, household, furnishing and floor covering, where the fabric or
fibrous component is selected principally (but not exclusively) for its
performance and properties as opposed to its aesthetic or decorative
characteristics.
3. A category of technical textiles used either as part of an industrial process, or incorporated into final products.
|
| Industrial Wiping Cloth |
An absorbent fabric made for use in cleaning machinery or for other industrial and commercial use.
|
| Industrial Yarn
|
A
yarn composed of continuous filaments, usually of high breaking
tenacity, produced with or without twist, and intended for applications
in which functional properties are of primary importance; for example
in reinforcing material in elastomeric products (tyres, hose, belting),
in protective coverings, and in cordage and webbing etc. |
| Industry Communications Platform
|
Technology,
people and processes that employ the Internet and other next generation
applications to streamline communication and business activities in a
targeted industry. |
| Industry Products
plants |
Products
such as furniture, pillows, comforters, sleeping bags, and wearing
apparel which are wholly or partially filled with feathers or down
intended for use in the manufacture of such products. |
| Inert |
A material that will not react chemically with other elements.
|
| Inflammable Textile
|
Use preferred term Flammable textile |
| Informative Label |
Factual
information about the goods or garment (such as fibre content,
construction, performance and care) presented to the buyer on hangtag
or woven or printed label. |
| Infra Red Radiation |
Radiant
energy for which the wavelengths of the monochromatic components are
greater than those for visible radiation and less than about 1mm. |
| Ingrain |
See Azoic or Naphthol dyes |
| Ingrain Yarn |
Yarn
spun from a mixture of fibres of different colours, where the mixing of
coloured fibres is carried out at an early stage. See also worsted
yarns, colour terms. |
| Ingrain Carpet
|
A reversible coarse carpeting woven on a jacquard loom accommodating up to six coloured weft threads. |
| Ingrain Dye |
A
colorant, which is formed, in situ, in the substrate by the development
and coupling of one or more intermediate compounds. The term was
originally used for colorants obtained from oxidation bases and by
azoic techniques, but is now reserved for other types of colorant
formed in situ, like ingrain dyes bearing the Alcian and Phthalogen
trade marks. These are limited ranges noted for particularly for their
unique turquoise colour, provided by the remarkably stable copper
phthlocyanine chromophore. See Onium dye
|
| Ingrain (Filament Yarn) |
Descriptive
of a filament yarn composed of filaments of different colours, the
ingrain effect being produced by the random exposure of the differently
coloured filaments at the yarn surface. |
| Ingrain Yarn |
¡
Filament yarn, composed of filaments of different colours, the ingrain
effect being produced by the random exposure of the differently
coloured filaments at the yarn surface. |
| Inherently Flame-resistant |
Fibre inherently having the property of flame-resistance. Compare Flame resistance |
| Inhibitor |
Usually refers to chemical agent applied to fabric, especially of acetate, to inhibit gas fading. |
| Inhibitory Catalyst |
An inhibitor, a catalyst that decreases the rate of reaction.
|
| Ink |
Dense fluid used for writing, drawing and printing. |
| Inking |
A process of dyeing or touching up spots in a fabric which otherwise would be a defect. |
| Ink Jet Printer |
An
Ink Jet Printer if is one of many types of printers. It is important to
make sure you have a Colour Ink Jet Printer (not black and white) when
using Ink Jet Printer Transfer Paper. A couple of printers that
shouldn't be used with this paper are Laser and Dot Matrix. |
| Ink Jet Printer Transfer Paper |
This
is very neat stuff - I've done it and it works great! Anyone with a
computer and access to an ink jet printer should try this. You just put
the paper into the printer and print. Then iron onto cotton or
cotton/poly fabric. After that, it's washable and permanent. It's great
fun and unlimited in what you can create. T-shirts and clothing are
obvious, but try picture quilts, or team uniforms and sports stuff like
caps, wherever silk screening is not practical. And check out the
Puzzles! Comes with complete instructions. Easy and fun - try it! |
| Inkle |
An old term for narrow fabric.
A coloured linen tape or braid woven on a very narrow loom and used for trimming.
|
| Inkle, Beggar's |
A fabric constructed as linsey-wolsey in the 18th and early 19th centuries.
|
| Inkle Loom |
A
simple form of narrow handloom. It consists of a frame with pegs, which
hold a characteristically narrow continuous warp, a simple device for
making two sheds, and an adjustable peg to control warp tension. |
| Inseam |
The seam on the inside of the leg. It's usually a felled seam for extra strength. |
| Inseam Measure |
Measure
similar style pants that fit you well, from the crotch seam to bottom
of pants. Number of inches (to the nearest 1/2") equals inseam length. |
| Inlay |
An extra seam allowance inside the garment, for letting out if required, or for strength at a given position. |
| Inlay Printing |
Embossing
and printing are combined in this process. The embossed fabric is
printed in the depressions in the fabric. Also see Embo printing |
| Inorganic Fibre |
Fibre
spun from inorganic material, e.g. Aluminium silicate is an inorganic
material and fibres spun from it are inorganic fibres. |
| Instant-set |
Paints
and dyes that are instant-set only need to dry by the air or a heater.
No heat setting or steaming required for instant-set. |
| In the Grey |
See Grey
|
| In the Grease |
Wool as it is shorn from the sheep; contains grease and other impurities. |
| In the Gum |
A natural, raw silk which is stiff and dull before the gum covering is removed by degumming. |
| IPR |
See Inches per rack |
| Insect Resistance |
The capability to impede damage by insects. |
| Insect Screening |
A woven netting fabric of coated glass yarn having a mesh size of 12 by 12 or greater. |
| Inserted Seam |
A
seam in which a single or number of layers of fabric is inserted
between two others which are turned in. The complete assembly is sewn
in one operation. |
| Inserted Selvedge |
Selvedge formed by inserting additional short double picks of strong fine yarn by means of a reciprocating needle. |
| Insertion |
Lace,
embroidery or other needlework inserted and sewn between two cut edges
of fabric for ornamental purposes. See also Insertion lace. A narrow
binding, lace, or embroidery with a plain edge that may be set into a
fabric. |
| Insertion Banded Laces |
See under Banded laces
|
| Insertion Braid |
A piping made by a braiding machine, which produces a flat and tubular braid on combination. . |
| Insertion Lace |
Banded
laces usually narrow and often with slits for threading ribbon through,
but it always has two straight sewing edges. It is inserted as
decoration, between two panels of fabric and the backing fabric is
usually cut away afterwards. |
| Inside-leg Length |
A term related to garment sizing.In body measurements, the vertical distance from the crotch to the soles of the feet. |
| Inside Seam |
A
seam formed in which the completed seam allowance is located on the
interior of the object, usually on the backside of the fabric. Examples
of inside seams include double-welt seam, French seam, lapped seams,
mock French seams, slot seams, tucked seams, and welt seams. Compare
Outside seam |
| Insoluble Soil |
Impurity
or contamination, especially carbon particles that may become embedded
in the fibres. Such impurities are almost impossible to remove in dry
cleaning. |
| Insolublizing |
A process referring to the coupling of dyes, e.g. mordant, to make man-made fibres resistant to or insoluble to leaching. |
| Inspection
|
Activity
such as measuring, examining, testing, gauging one or more
characteristics of a product or service and comparing these with
specified requirements to determine conformity. See also Assortment,
Assessment of garment defects |
| Institutional Consumer |
Institutions who use goods and services for their businesses to produce other goods or to operate public institutions. |
| Instron Tensile Tester |
An
electronic testing equipment for a broad range of materials under
varied testing conditions. It is used to measure and chart load
elongation properties of fibres, yarns, fabrics, webbings, etc. It is
also used to measure compression and tear-resistance. |
| Insulating Tape |
A narrow fabric used in the manufacture of electrical equipment. |
| Insulation Finish
|
Curtain
and lining fabrics can have fine metallic powder bonded to the surface.
In the summer, heat from the sun is reflected away from the room or
body; in the winter loss of heat to the outside is prevented. |
| Insulation Tape |
A woven fabric, impregnated with a non-conducting adhesive, which is then cut into strips. |
| Intaglio |
In
printing, a design or line cut into a surface of printing cylinder so
as to form a hollow or indent. Covers a group of lustrous, brocade-like
patterns knitted into nylon tricot fabric. Munsingwear, Inc., was the
first company to use this type of motif and colouring on nylon tricot
made with a monotone pattern.
|
| Intarsia |
1.
A knitted fabric in which there are solid areas of colour patterning.
The characteristic of such areas is that they consist only of the yarn
forming them; no other coloured yarn passes either through them or
behind them. Joins between the areas of colour are formed either by
entwining the sinker loops of adjacent areas or by plating adjacent
area loops.
2. A motif design in stitch and/or colour.
|
| In thing |
See Fashion |
| Integral Garment |
All
knitted garments are classified into four classes according to general
production methods; Fully cut, Stitch shaped cut, Fully fashioned and
Integral.
Integral garments (also known as 'Integrally knitted garments') is weft
knitted garments, so con-structed, that they require little or no
cutting, and little or no seaming operations to finish them. Integrally
knitted garments are those that are essentially knitted in one piece
with little or no seam. The archetypal example is the beret, which is
knitted sequentially in a series of triangles, leaving the beginning
and the end to be joined into a three dimensional shape. This principle
has also been used to make skirts and jumpers and is used to produce a
large proportion of ladies and gents millinery.
Another integral garment using a combination of tubular knitting and
shaping is the men's sock or half hose. To shape the heel and toe of a
sock, pouches are formed from extra rows of knitting. The third common
type of integral garment consists principally of joined tubes - the
glove. Tubes are constructed for each of the digits, sometimes with
shaped tips, and merge together into the palm portion, (also a tube).
With some latest model machines, it is now possible to knit such
gloves, fully automatically with no subsequent making up procedures.
The general production sequence of integral garment (e.g. Half hose)
is: Knit half hose
|
| Finish press |
Developmental
work is fast progressing on integral garment manufacturing of upper
body outerwear apparels too. The main advantages of integral concepts
are savings in both raw material and labour costs at the expense of
lower machine output. The electronic V-bed knitting machines in their
pres-ent state of development, with presser foot or holding sinkers,
are easily capable of producing gar-ments in all the garment
categories. |
| Integral Knitted Garments |
See Integral garments |
| Integrated Hangtag |
This
is an integration of price ticket information (UPC, Price, etc.) onto a
hang tag. This process eliminates the need for having a hang tag plus a
price ticket. The integrated hang tag allows you to merge the creative
aspect of hang tags with the boring but necessary information from a
traditional price ticket. Essentially, this allows for an updated
version of an old fashion price ticket. |
| Integrated Mill |
A textile mill, which has a complete series of operations to produce fabric from the fibrous raw material
|
| Integument |
In sericulture, refers to the covering of the silkworm's body. |
| Intensity |
Refers
to the brightness or the dullness of a colour, corresponds to
saturation or the purity of hue that a surface can reflect. When red is
all red it is said to be in full intensity. When black, white, or grey
is used in the colour there is a neutralization or a reduction in the
intensity. |
| Interchanging Double Cloth |
See under Double cloth |
| Interfacing |
Woven
or non-woven fabrics used to give body to certain areas of a garment.
It adds to the outward appearance of the garment if some areas are
reinforced, e.g. collars, buttoned openings, cuffs, pocket flaps, and
this structuring also makes the garment last longer. Interfacing has
always been a vital and integral part of tailoring, but until
comparatively recently was regarded as less important in dressmaking.
Now, however, a very wide range of types and weights of interfacing is
available, so it is not difficult to interface correctly and improve
the garment. Choice depends entirely on the fabric being sewn. In
general, the interfacing used in dressmaking should be lighter and
softer than the fabric, otherwise the interfacing will take over and
make the area where it is used to appear different. See Non-woven
canvas, Woven canvas, Iron-on canvas |
| Interlaced Yarn |
See Intermingled yarn
|
| Interlining |
An
insulation, padding, or stiffening fabric, either sewn to the wrong
side of the lining or the inner side of the outer shell fabric. The
interlining is used primarily to provide warmth in coats, jackets, and
outerwear.Any one of a wide variety of fabrics used between the inner
and outer layers of a garment to improve shape retention, strength,
warmth or bulk. Interlining may be of woven, knitted, or non-woven
material and may be produced with or without a fusible adhesive
coating. |
| Interlining |
1. A lightweight, napped, cotton, wool, or other fabric used in tailoring for extra weight or warmth.
2. Firm still linen canvas for men's coats.
|
| Interlining |
Woven or nonwoven fabric layer between outer cloth and lining of a garment for stiffening or giving warmth. |
| Interlining |
Any
textile which is intended for incorporation into an article of wearing
apparel as a layer between an outer shell and the ordinary inner
lining, for shape retention, strength, warmth or bulk. |
| Interlining |
Any
one of a wide variety of fabrics used between the inner and outer
layers of a garment to improve shape retention, strength, warmth or
bulk. Interlining may be of woven, knitted, or nonwoven material and
may be produced with or without a fusible adhesive coating. |
| Interlock |
The
stitch variation of the rib stitch, which resembles two separate 1 x 1
ribbed fabrics that are interknitted. Plain (double knit) interlock
stitch fabrics are thicker, heavier, and more stable than single knit
constructions. |
| Interlock |
W
stretchable fabric made on a circular knitting machine and consisting
of two ribbed fabrics joined by interlocking. A garment made of
interlock fabric, namely one that is stretchable and made on a circular
knitting machine and consisting of two ribbed fabrics joined by
interlocking |
| Inter lock Gating |
A type of needle gating, in which the opposed alignment of one set of needles with the other on a knitting machine. |
| Interlock knit |
A
fabric that has two-ply knit simultaneously to form one thicker and
heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than a jersey knit, a soft
hand, and the same appearance and feel on both sides. |
| Interlock Stitches |
A
versatile group of stitch types forming flat seams. Two to four needle
thread chain stitching in a parallel formation is joined together on
one side of the fabric by interlooping with a single thread. The other
side of the stitching may also be joined by one or more threads known
as covering threads. The classification of such seams is confused, in
that they fall into two groups within the BS/ISO system. |
| Interlock, Weft-Knitted |
A
double-faced rib-based structure consisting of two 1 x i rib fabrics
joined by interlock loops. It is made on machines equipped with two
sets of opposed needles, from various materials for a variety of
purposes, including outerwear. |
| Intermediate Colours |
Also called tertiary colours. Any colour that includes a mixture of a primary and secondary colour.
|
| Intermediate Cottons |
An
intermediate classification for cotton staple between short and long
staple (actually overlapped by both). Staple lengths of intermediates
range from 1.27 to 3.33cm. |
| Intermediates |
See Yarn intermediates |
| Intermingled Yarn |
A
multifilament yarn in which cohesion is imparted to the filament bundle
by entwining the filaments instead of or in addition to twisting. The
effect is usually achieved by passing the yarn under light tension
through the turbulent zone of an air-jet.Intermingling should be
distinguished from air-texturing in which a much higher level of
entanglement is achieved with the objective of producing texture or
bulk. |
| Intermingling Jet |
An
air-operated device used as an ancillary to some processes of yarn
extrusion, of drawing and of texturing to induce intermingling of
filaments and hence yarn coherence. See also Intermingled yarn |
| International Fibre Description |
See Table: 'International fabric description'. |
| Intermission Length/Hi-Lo |
An
intermission-length gown features a hem falling between the knees and
ankle; the Hi-Lo variation is a gown of intermission length on the
front and floor length or longer in the back. |
| International Grey Scale |
A comparative standard) scale used to rate degrees of colour fading from 5 (negligible or no-change) to 1 (severe change). |
| International Unit System |
To
simplify international co-operation in all sectors of industry and
commerce, the SI unit system (SI = Systeme International d' Unites) was
established. The SI is a rationalized selection of units in the metric
system which individually are not new and all other units are derived
from them. Few changes were necessary for countries that use the metric
system, nevertheless some changes were necessary to comply to the
international agreed usage of SI. The international system is based on
7 base units. All other units are derived from these units. Conversion
factors are 1 or decimal multiples and sub-multiples of 10. A system of
prefixes denoting decimal multiples and sub-multiples of the base units
has been established. See Tables of international unit system (SI) base
units and derived units, & Table of SI units used in the textile
industry |
| Inter-woven Yarn |
Same as Interlaced yarn |
| Intimate Blends |
Combining
two or more different fibre types into a uniform mixture before the
single yarn is spun. The combining of two or more staple fibres in a
spun yarn blended so intimately that individual fibber characteristics
are dominated by the blend. In a mixture, the various components
usually retain their identity. |
| Intimate Blend Yarn |
Different
fibres are blended together to make a yarn composed of two fibres. The
purpose is to mix the properties and characteristics of individual
fibres into one new mixed fibre. |
| Intrinsic Clo |
See Clo |
| Invisible Waste |
Weight loss due to dust, moisture, loose fibres, etc., carried away by the air. |
| Intumescent System |
Flame
Redundancy A flame retardant system, which undergoes charring and
foaming upon thermal degradation (for example, when exposed to an
ignition source such as a flame). A blown protective cellular char is
formed on the surface of the textile, providing protection from heat
and flame. |
| Inturned Welt |
A
welt consisting of a double fold of plain fabric made on a circular
stocking machine. Sinker loops from one of the first few courses are
retained while the welt fabric is knitted and are later intermeshed
with alternate needle loops of a subsequent course. |
| Inverness |
A loose belted coat having a cape with a close-fitting round collar |
| Invoice Mass |
The
mass, however determined, of a consignment of a textile material, which
is declared on the invoice. It is usually numerically equivalent to the
commercial mass. |
| Ion |
An atom or a group of atoms that carries an electric charge. |
| Ionization |
The
breaking up of a compound into separate ions. In aqueous solution, the
process in which a molecular compound reacts with water and forms ions. |
| Inwrought |
A
decoration, design or pattern worked into a fabric so as to be a part
of the cloth, e.g. Tapestry, Brocade, Damask, Brocatelle |
| Ionomer |
A
polymer characterized by covalent bonds between the constituents of the
long chain molecules and ionic bonds between the chains. |
| IPR |
See Inches per rack |
| Irised Print |
See Ombré print
|
| Iridescent |
A
fabric with a changeable color effect depending on the angle of view
and lighting. It is usually the result of weaving with one color in the
warp and another in the weft. |
| Iridescent buttons |
Buttons with a lustrous, rainbow-like hue. |
| Iridescent Effect |
See Changeable effect. |
| Iridescent Fabric |
A fabric with changeable colour or shot effects. May be the result of dye, finish or weave. /td>
|
| Iridescent Fabrics |
Changeable
effects noted in some cloths because of the colour arrangement in the
warp and filling yarns used to provide contrast and interest. Examples
include taffeta and comparable cloths, which show these varying tints
and hues as rays of light strike the goods. |
| Irised Print |
See Ombré print |
| Irish Lace |
Refers to any lace made in Ireland. Most often they are crochet or needlepoint laces. |
| Irish Lawn |
A lawn fabric produced from fine linen yarns. |
| Irish Linen |
A woven fabric produced in Ireland from 100% flax yam. |
| Irish Linen Yarn |
100% flax yarn spun in Ireland. |
| Irish Finish
|
A finish given to cotton fabric to imitate linen. |
| Irish Lace |
Term
to describe a heavy crochet lace with looped edges. Made in Ireland;
Carrickmacross and Limerick are two places of origin. See also Limerick
lace
|
| Irish Linen |
1.In yarn, 100% flax yarn spun in Ireland.
2.
In fabric, a fine quality linen fabric woven in Ireland from Irish
linen yarn. Used for handkerchiefs and table linen; coarser grades used
for tea towels and glass clothes.
|
| Irish Poplin |
A
poplin made from a dyed pure silk organzine warp and a three-fold
genapped fine worsted weft. It is a silk-face and silk-back fabric, the
weft being completely covered by the warp. The fabric is usually
hand-woven and is frequently given a moiré finish. |
| Irish Tweed |
White
warp and dark shade weft of blue, grey, brown, or black feature this
popular, rugged menswear fabric. Used for suiting and coating.Tweed
fabric from Ireland, usually with white warp and colored filling. See
Tweed.
|
| Iron Fix |
If
you are using a cellulose fabric (cotton, linen, viscose rayon, jute)
you can heat-set the paints with an iron. Iron the fabric on a hot
setting (the setting for the fabric) from the backside for 3-5 minutes.
You can also place a clean, dry cloth over the front of the fabric and
iron it for 3-5 minutes. Do not use steam and keep the iron moving to
prevent scorching. |
| Iron Grey |
A slightly greenish dark grey.
shaped mesh. |
| Ironing |
A method of pressing using a heated hand iron, sometimes together with moisture or steam, and a gliding motion.
|
| Iron Pressing of Textile |
A
process carried out on a textile article to restore its shape and
appearance, by means of an appropriate appliance using heat and
pressure. |
| Iron Liquor |
Ferrous
acetate. This chemical in its impure form find usage in textile
processing as a mordant, for certain black dyes on cotton and silk. |
| Iron-on Canvas Interfacings |
1.An
iron-on woven canvas does not give the shaping advantages of the sew-in
varieties. However, it is quick to use and is effective on flat areas
such as coat fronts, pocket flaps, hemlines (where added body is
needed.), etc. Selection to be according to the weight of fabric being
used:
2. A thick, soft canvas made from a mixture of linen and cotton
3. A very soft cotton canvas that would be suitable for the lightweight clothes used for women's coats and jackets.
|
| Iron-on Cotton |
Soft
cotton fabric, almost like muslin, with adhesive granules on the wrong
side. It would add slight stiffness to soft fabrics. Not cheap. |
| Iron-proofing |
A t |
| Iaedryun |
A
short jacket, often richly embroidered, worn mostly in Kutch and
Saurashtra, in combination with an embroidered pyjama (q.v.). |
| Ice Colours |
See Azoic dyes and Azoic dyeing. |
| Ice Cream |
A colour similar to that of vanilla ice cream. |
| Ice Dyes |
See Azoic dyes, Azoic dyeing |
| Ice Skate |
AA shoe with a metal runner attached for ice-skating |
| Iceland Wool |
The
wool from Iceland sheep, those have an outer covering of long coarse
hair and a fine woolly undergrowth. This undergrowth is used for
sweaters and shawls. |
| Identification Test |
A
procedure involved in determining facts about textiles, such as kind of
fibres, yarns, construction, finish, and colouring. Physical, chemical,
microscopical or other techniques may be used. |
| IFCATI |
Acronym
for 'International Federation of Cotton and Allied Textile Industries.
A textile oriented group, covering industries in most of the principal
textile producing nations of the Free World. Promotes interest of its
members through research, consultation, cooperation, and action on a
world level. Enjoys consultative status with the United Nations. |
| IFI |
Acronym
for 'International Fabricare Institute. The group is representative of
all forms of industrial and domestic laundering, dry cleaning, and
related services. It was formed in 1972 via a merger between the
National Institute of Dry cleaning, and the American Institute of
Laundering. |
| Ignition |
The initiation of combustion. |
| Ihram |
A white cotton cloth devoid of needlework, worn by pilgrims to Mecca. |
| Ikat |
A traditional technique resulting in a streaky effect, created by tying and dyeing lengths of yarn before weaving.
|
| Ikat Dyeing |
A
process of dyeing originated in Indonesia and Malaysia in which a warp
is dyed to a pattern through the use of resist agent. The warp is made
first in rope form and predetermined sections are bound tightly to
protect that section from the dye. When the warp is opened out after
dyeing, a pattern is shown on the warp, which comes through into the
woven fabric (warp ikat). A variation can be achieved by dyeing the
weft yarn in a similar way (weft ikat) and in some cases both warp and
weft may be treated (double ikat). Careful control and planning can
give interesting and unusual figured effects in the cloth. The pattern
shapes tend to have soft edges due to some relative movement of the
threads in weaving, and a certain amount of bleeding and capillary
action in the dye process. |
| Ikat Fabric |
Fabric made from ikat dyed materials. |
| IMA |
Acronym
for 'International Mohair Association'. An association of major
producers and users of mohair whose basic aim is to promote use of
mohair throughout the world and to establish an international mohair
mark on all products made of the luxury fibre. Its purpose is similar
to the International Wool Secretariat. |
| Illuminated Discharge |
See Colour discharge printing |
| Illumination |
1.In lighting, the density or flux of light on a unit area of surface.
2. A term used to describe any soft sheet net or tulle. Mainly used for veils and dresses.
|
| Illusion |
A
very fine, all-silk tulle, which originated in France. It has a cobweb
appearance. Hexagonal open mesh. Made in 52 inch and 72 inch widths.
Used in veils, particularly for weddings, trimmings.
Characteristics: A very fine, all-silk tulle, which originated in
France. It has a cobweb appearance. Hexagonal open mesh. Made in 52
inch and 72 inch widths. |
| Illusion Bodice |
A bodice made of sheer material giving the illusion of no bodice.
|
| Illusion Sleeve |
A sleeve made of sheer material giving the illusion of no sleeve.
|
| Illustrator |
A
modelling term. Also called a fashion illustrator. This is someone who
draws fashion for advertising or editorial purposes. Many use models to
pose in the clothes they are required to draw so that their renderings
are accurate. |
| Ilocano Cloth |
A bright coloured, striped or checked, cotton fabric woven in Philippines. Used mainly for swimwear, active sportswear. |
| Imberline |
A woven fabric with various coloured stripes in the warp often separated by gold thread. Used in upholstery, drapery.
A Jacquard fabric with a wide stripe woven in the design.
|
| Imberline Stripe |
A
fabric, woven in one piece but appearing to be composed of a series of
different strips joined by gold and silk galloon. It is actually a
fabric woven with various coloured and patterned stripes, separated by
gold stripes. |
| Imbibition |
A measure of a textile material's ability to hold liquid.
|
| Imbrocado |
A silver or gold trimming fabric. |
| Imitation Alpaca |
See under Alpaca |
| Imitation Mock Gauze |
See under Perforated weave |
| Imitation Silk |
A
term occasionally used in the past for mercerised cotton yarn and
viscose. Trade and governmental regulations classify this term as a
misnomer. |
| Imitation Velvet |
Plain weave with small tufts or fibres fixed by adhesive.
|
| Immature Cotton |
Cotton
in which the thickening of the fibre wall is appreciably less than
usual., note. If growth conditions are not favourable, possibly as a
result of attack by disease or through plant senility, or occasionally
because of the genetic nature of the variety, the secondary-wall
thickening may first be delayed and then proceed at a reduced rate or
wall development may cease prematurely: the ripened boil will contain a
high proportion of developed immature fibres
|
| Immature Cotton Fibre |
A term used in relation to cotton maturity. Fibre where little wall thickening has taken place during cotton growth. |
| Immediate Elastic Deformation |
Recoverable
deformation which is essentially independent of time, that is,
occurring in (a time approaching) zero time and recoverable (a time
approaching) zero time after removal of the applied force. |
| Immersion Dyeing |
Process of dyeing a fabric in which the fabric is submerged in a dye bath. |
| Immersion Testing |
A
measure of the properties of fibres, yarns or fabrics when saturated
with a liquid. The test is performed with the sample immersed in the
liquid. |
| Immunized Cotton |
Cotton
that has been treated to resist ordinary cotton-dyes; the chemical
structure has been converted into an ester of cellulose. Acetic
anhydride is one of the principal agents employed in the treatment.
Immunized cotton responds to dyes suitable for acetate rayon. |
| Impact Resistance |
The resistance to fracture under the sudden application of an external force.
|
| Impact Texturing |
The yarn is plasticized by passage through a jet of hot fluid and is impacted on to a cooling surface. See also Texturising |
| Impact Texturing |
A
continuous filament yarn made from or containing thermoplastic fibres
is plasticized by passing through a jet of hot fluid and is impacted on
to a cooling surface. |
| Imperfect Selvedges |
Fabric
defect. These include Blaky selvedge, Beaded selvedge, Broken selvedge,
Corded selvedge, Curled selvedge, Cut selvedge, Damaged selvedge,
Dog-legged selvedge, Doubled selvedge, Drawn selvedge, Folded selvedge,
Looped selvedge, Loose edge, Rolled selvedge, Scalloped selvedge, Slack
selvedge, Tight selvedge, Torn selvedge, etc. |
| Imperial Cloth |
Coating
fabric of fine worsted in twill weave. Imperial serge is similar, but
softer and looser woven. Both are firm, durable clothes, usually dyed
navy blue, and used for coats, capes, and if shower proofed for
raincoats. |
| Imperial Sateen |
A
heavily wefted fabric based on an eight-end sateen weave with one or
more extra risers added. The weft face may be smooth or raised. See
also Beaverteen, Fustian |
| Impregnated Fabric |
A
fabric in which the interstices between the yarns are completely filled
with the impregnating compound throughout the thickness of the
material, as distinguished from sized or coated materials, where these
interstices are not completely filled.
A fabric woven from impregnated yarns, but not impregnated after
weaving, is not an impregnated fabric. |
| Impregnated Yarn |
A yarn in which the interstices are filled with an impregnating compound.
|
| Impregnation |
The process of treating a fabric with a functional compound. |
| Impression |
Surface unevenness developed during pressing, usually around areas of extra thickness, such as pockets and seams. |
| Impression Mark |
See Emboss mark
|
| Incarnadine |
Having the pinkish colour of flesh; red, especially blood red. |
| Inches Per Rack |
In
warp knitting, the length of fabric in one rack measured on the machine
under operating take-up tension. The phrase 'inches per rack' is
recommended for use in place of the word 'quality', previously used for
this concept. |
| Indanthrene |
An original vat dye; identified by its high colourfastness.
|
| India Blanket |
All-wool,
or woollen filling blankets woven with characteristic American Indian
designs. The genuine Indian handmade blanket is more of a rug than a
blanket. Today most Indian blankets are power loom woven. |
| India Chintz |
A heavy, strong chintz with large patterns used for upholstery.
|
| Indian Abutilon |
A
fine lustrous white fibre, yielded from abutilon graveolens, found in
South Asia and India, where it is abundant. Not used commercially, but
considered to have a potential as a textile material. |
| Indian Red |
A strong or moderate reddish brown. |
| Indian Blanket |
All
wool, woollen filling blankets woven with characteristic Indian
designs. The term should apply only to blankets actually handmade by
the Indians, and such blankets should be so marked. The genuine Indian
handmade blanket is more of a rug than a blanket. Today most Indian
blankets are power loom woven. |
| Indian Cotton |
A type of cotton fibre. Average fibre length 15 to 20mm., usually used only for coarse counts. |
| Indian Crêpe |
A cotton crêpe of rough unfinished appearance, used for blouses, men's shirts. |
| Indian Dhurrie |
See Dhurrie. |
| Indian Embroidery |
Needlework
done by natives of India in characteristic oriental design. Cloth
embroidery, chain-stitch embroidery, quilting and cashmere work are
included in this type of needlework. |
| Indian Silk |
Hand-loomed
silk fabric, not necessarily always made in India. Has a slightly
wrinkled impressed appearance, but it is crisp. Made in plain colours.
Used for saris, eveningwear and some furnishing items such as cushion
covers. |
| India Print |
Cotton
fabric printed with the characteristic native patterns in form and
content, usually hand blocked in glowing oriental colours. |
| India Tape |
A plain weave, narrow fabric, made from cotton using plied yarn as warp and single yarn in double pick weft. |
| Indicators |
For
acid-base titrations, organic compounds that exhibit different colors
in solutions of different acidities; used to determine the point at
which reaction between two solutes is complete.
|
| Indiennes |
In the 17th and 18th centuries the name given to all eastern painted and printed cloths, whatever their country of origin. |
| Indigo |
A type of blue dyestuff originally obtained from the indigo plant but now produced synthetically. Used for denim. |
| Indigo |
A
variable colour averaging a dark greyish blue. A natural dye material
of a deep blue colour. Natural Indigo is perhaps the oldest dye known
to man. The oldest historic texts speak of it, as in the colours chosen
for the Tabernacle of the Arc of the Covenant. The oldest fragments of
cloth are dyed with it. It was the original dye of the "Levi's" blue
jeans, a trademark colour for durability. Natural Indigo is one of the
fastest dyes known to man and is the only natural blue dye of
permanence. Indigo is a blue vat dyestuff that was originally taken
from the "Indigofera tinctoria" plant by fermenting the leaves of the
shrub. In 1897, fourteen years after Adolf von Bayer identified the
chemical structure of indigo, the chemical became synthetically
manufactured.Indigo's inherent features are good colourfastness to
water and light, a continually fading and its inability to penetrate
fibres completely. This allows the blue color in jeans made from indigo
to always look irregular and individual.There is no dyestuff like
it!.Development of synthetic indigo from coal tar products and other
hydrocarbon sources has made the use of natural indigo almost obsolete.
Vat dyes in big volume go into the dyeing of blue denim for work
cloths. See also Vat dyes |
| Indigo and Colour |
Refers to yarn dyed fabrics using a combinations of indigo dyed yarns and yarns of other colors together in the design. |
| Indigo and Over-printed |
Refers to printing done on an indigo denim, indigo chambray, or indigo dyed fabric. |
| Indigo Dye |
It
puts the blue in blue jeans. While indigo dye was originally extracted
from the Indigofera Tinctoria plant, today's indigos are man-made. |
| Indigo Dyed
|
Refers to a fabric which has been piece dyed with indigo dye. |
| Indigotin
|
The basic colouring substance of indigo. Synthetic or artificial indigo is almost pure indigotin.
|
| Indirect Warping
|
The transference of yarn from a package creel onto a swift from which it is subsequently wound onto a beam. |
| Indirect Warping |
The transference of yam from a package creel onto a swift from which it is subsequently wound onto a beam. |
| Indirect Yarn Numbering System
|
A system that expresses yarn number in length per unit mass or the reciprocal of linear density.
|
| Institutional Consumer
|
The
term used to describe individuals who use goods and services for their
businesses to produce other goods or to operate public institutions |
| Industrial Nylon
|
Heavy-duty
plain-weave nylon fabric made in a limited range of colours. Is fairly
stiff and does not crease. Used for overalls and protective clothing,
but is also useful for the bags of men's trouser pockets, as it is
extremely hardwearing. |
| Industrial Sheeting
|
A sheeting fabric, which serves as backing for artificial leather, boot and shoe lining, etc.
|
| Industrial Textiles |
1. A category of technical textiles used as part of an industrial process, or incorporated into final products.
2. Textile materials and products intended for end-uses other than
clothing, household, furnishing and floor covering, where the fabric or
fibrous component is selected principally (but not exclusively) for its
performance and properties as opposed to its aesthetic or decorative
characteristics.
3. A category of technical textiles used either as part of an industrial process, or incorporated into final products.
|
| Industrial Wiping Cloth |
An absorbent fabric made for use in cleaning machinery or for other industrial and commercial use.
|
| Industrial Yarn
|
A
yarn composed of continuous filaments, usually of high breaking
tenacity, produced with or without twist, and intended for applications
in which functional properties are of primary importance; for example
in reinforcing material in elastomeric products (tyres, hose, belting),
in protective coverings, and in cordage and webbing etc. |
| Industry Communications Platform
|
Technology,
people and processes that employ the Internet and other next generation
applications to streamline communication and business activities in a
targeted industry. |
| Industry Products
plants |
Products
such as furniture, pillows, comforters, sleeping bags, and wearing
apparel which are wholly or partially filled with feathers or down
intended for use in the manufacture of such products. |
| Inert |
A material that will not react chemically with other elements.
|
| Inflammable Textile
|
Use preferred term Flammable textile |
| Informative Label |
Factual
information about the goods or garment (such as fibre content,
construction, performance and care) presented to the buyer on hangtag
or woven or printed label. |
| Infra Red Radiation |
Radiant
energy for which the wavelengths of the monochromatic components are
greater than those for visible radiation and less than about 1mm. |
| Ingrain |
See Azoic or Naphthol dyes |
| Ingrain Yarn |
Yarn
spun from a mixture of fibres of different colours, where the mixing of
coloured fibres is carried out at an early stage. See also worsted
yarns, colour terms. |
| Ingrain Carpet
|
A reversible coarse carpeting woven on a jacquard loom accommodating up to six coloured weft threads. |
| Ingrain Dye |
A
colorant, which is formed, in situ, in the substrate by the development
and coupling of one or more intermediate compounds. The term was
originally used for colorants obtained from oxidation bases and by
azoic techniques, but is now reserved for other types of colorant
formed in situ, like ingrain dyes bearing the Alcian and Phthalogen
trade marks. These are limited ranges noted for particularly for their
unique turquoise colour, provided by the remarkably stable copper
phthlocyanine chromophore. See Onium dye
|
| Ingrain (Filament Yarn) |
Descriptive
of a filament yarn composed of filaments of different colours, the
ingrain effect being produced by the random exposure of the differently
coloured filaments at the yarn surface. |
| Ingrain Yarn |
¡
Filament yarn, composed of filaments of different colours, the ingrain
effect being produced by the random exposure of the differently
coloured filaments at the yarn surface. |
| Inherently Flame-resistant |
Fibre inherently having the property of flame-resistance. Compare Flame resistance |
| Inhibitor |
Usually refers to chemical agent applied to fabric, especially of acetate, to inhibit gas fading. |
| Inhibitory Catalyst |
An inhibitor, a catalyst that decreases the rate of reaction.
|
| Ink |
Dense fluid used for writing, drawing and printing. |
| Inking |
A process of dyeing or touching up spots in a fabric which otherwise would be a defect. |
| Ink Jet Printer |
An
Ink Jet Printer if is one of many types of printers. It is important to
make sure you have a Colour Ink Jet Printer (not black and white) when
using Ink Jet Printer Transfer Paper. A couple of printers that
shouldn't be used with this paper are Laser and Dot Matrix. |
| Ink Jet Printer Transfer Paper |
This
is very neat stuff - I've done it and it works great! Anyone with a
computer and access to an ink jet printer should try this. You just put
the paper into the printer and print. Then iron onto cotton or
cotton/poly fabric. After that, it's washable and permanent. It's great
fun and unlimited in what you can create. T-shirts and clothing are
obvious, but try picture quilts, or team uniforms and sports stuff like
caps, wherever silk screening is not practical. And check out the
Puzzles! Comes with complete instructions. Easy and fun - try it! |
| Inkle |
An old term for narrow fabric.
A coloured linen tape or braid woven on a very narrow loom and used for trimming.
|
| Inkle, Beggar's |
A fabric constructed as linsey-wolsey in the 18th and early 19th centuries.
|
| Inkle Loom |
A
simple form of narrow handloom. It consists of a frame with pegs, which
hold a characteristically narrow continuous warp, a simple device for
making two sheds, and an adjustable peg to control warp tension. |
| Inseam |
The seam on the inside of the leg. It's usually a felled seam for extra strength. |
| Inseam Measure |
Measure
similar style pants that fit you well, from the crotch seam to bottom
of pants. Number of inches (to the nearest 1/2") equals inseam length. |
| Inlay |
An extra seam allowance inside the garment, for letting out if required, or for strength at a given position. |
| Inlay Printing |
Embossing
and printing are combined in this process. The embossed fabric is
printed in the depressions in the fabric. Also see Embo printing |
| Inorganic Fibre |
Fibre
spun from inorganic material, e.g. Aluminium silicate is an inorganic
material and fibres spun from it are inorganic fibres. |
| Instant-set |
Paints
and dyes that are instant-set only need to dry by the air or a heater.
No heat setting or steaming required for instant-set. |
| In the Grey |
See Grey
|
| In the Grease |
Wool as it is shorn from the sheep; contains grease and other impurities. |
| In the Gum |
A natural, raw silk which is stiff and dull before the gum covering is removed by degumming. |
| IPR |
See Inches per rack |
| Insect Resistance |
The capability to impede damage by insects. |
| Insect Screening |
A woven netting fabric of coated glass yarn having a mesh size of 12 by 12 or greater. |
| Inserted Seam |
A
seam in which a single or number of layers of fabric is inserted
between two others which are turned in. The complete assembly is sewn
in one operation. |
| Inserted Selvedge |
Selvedge formed by inserting additional short double picks of strong fine yarn by means of a reciprocating needle. |
| Insertion |
Lace,
embroidery or other needlework inserted and sewn between two cut edges
of fabric for ornamental purposes. See also Insertion lace. A narrow
binding, lace, or embroidery with a plain edge that may be set into a
fabric. |
| Insertion Banded Laces |
See under Banded laces
|
| Insertion Braid |
A piping made by a braiding machine, which produces a flat and tubular braid on combination. . |
| Insertion Lace |
Banded
laces usually narrow and often with slits for threading ribbon through,
but it always has two straight sewing edges. It is inserted as
decoration, between two panels of fabric and the backing fabric is
usually cut away afterwards. |
| Inside-leg Length |
A term related to garment sizing.In body measurements, the vertical distance from the crotch to the soles of the feet. |
| Inside Seam |
A
seam formed in which the completed seam allowance is located on the
interior of the object, usually on the backside of the fabric. Examples
of inside seams include double-welt seam, French seam, lapped seams,
mock French seams, slot seams, tucked seams, and welt seams. Compare
Outside seam |
| Insoluble Soil |
Impurity
or contamination, especially carbon particles that may become embedded
in the fibres. Such impurities are almost impossible to remove in dry
cleaning. |
| Insolublizing |
A process referring to the coupling of dyes, e.g. mordant, to make man-made fibres resistant to or insoluble to leaching. |
| Inspection
|
Activity
such as measuring, examining, testing, gauging one or more
characteristics of a product or service and comparing these with
specified requirements to determine conformity. See also Assortment,
Assessment of garment defects |
| Institutional Consumer |
Institutions who use goods and services for their businesses to produce other goods or to operate public institutions. |
| Instron Tensile Tester |
An
electronic testing equipment for a broad range of materials under
varied testing conditions. It is used to measure and chart load
elongation properties of fibres, yarns, fabrics, webbings, etc. It is
also used to measure compression and tear-resistance. |
| Insulating Tape |
A narrow fabric used in the manufacture of electrical equipment. |
| Insulation Finish
|
Curtain
and lining fabrics can have fine metallic powder bonded to the surface.
In the summer, heat from the sun is reflected away from the room or
body; in the winter loss of heat to the outside is prevented. |
| Insulation Tape |
A woven fabric, impregnated with a non-conducting adhesive, which is then cut into strips. |
| Intaglio |
In
printing, a design or line cut into a surface of printing cylinder so
as to form a hollow or indent. Covers a group of lustrous, brocade-like
patterns knitted into nylon tricot fabric. Munsingwear, Inc., was the
first company to use this type of motif and colouring on nylon tricot
made with a monotone pattern.
|
| Intarsia |
1.
A knitted fabric in which there are solid areas of colour patterning.
The characteristic of such areas is that they consist only of the yarn
forming them; no other coloured yarn passes either through them or
behind them. Joins between the areas of colour are formed either by
entwining the sinker loops of adjacent areas or by plating adjacent
area loops.
2. A motif design in stitch and/or colour.
|
| In thing |
See Fashion |
| Integral Garment |
All
knitted garments are classified into four classes according to general
production methods; Fully cut, Stitch shaped cut, Fully fashioned and
Integral.
Integral garments (also known as 'Integrally knitted garments') is weft
knitted garments, so con-structed, that they require little or no
cutting, and little or no seaming operations to finish them. Integrally
knitted garments are those that are essentially knitted in one piece
with little or no seam. The archetypal example is the beret, which is
knitted sequentially in a series of triangles, leaving the beginning
and the end to be joined into a three dimensional shape. This principle
has also been used to make skirts and jumpers and is used to produce a
large proportion of ladies and gents millinery.
Another integral garment using a combination of tubular knitting and
shaping is the men's sock or half hose. To shape the heel and toe of a
sock, pouches are formed from extra rows of knitting. The third common
type of integral garment consists principally of joined tubes - the
glove. Tubes are constructed for each of the digits, sometimes with
shaped tips, and merge together into the palm portion, (also a tube).
With some latest model machines, it is now possible to knit such
gloves, fully automatically with no subsequent making up procedures.
The general production sequence of integral garment (e.g. Half hose)
is: Knit half hose
|
| Finish press |
Developmental
work is fast progressing on integral garment manufacturing of upper
body outerwear apparels too. The main advantages of integral concepts
are savings in both raw material and labour costs at the expense of
lower machine output. The electronic V-bed knitting machines in their
pres-ent state of development, with presser foot or holding sinkers,
are easily capable of producing gar-ments in all the garment
categories. |
| Integral Knitted Garments |
See Integral garments |
| Integrated Hangtag |
This
is an integration of price ticket information (UPC, Price, etc.) onto a
hang tag. This process eliminates the need for having a hang tag plus a
price ticket. The integrated hang tag allows you to merge the creative
aspect of hang tags with the boring but necessary information from a
traditional price ticket. Essentially, this allows for an updated
version of an old fashion price ticket. |
| Integrated Mill |
A textile mill, which has a complete series of operations to produce fabric from the fibrous raw material
|
| Integument |
In sericulture, refers to the covering of the silkworm's body. |
| Intensity |
Refers
to the brightness or the dullness of a colour, corresponds to
saturation or the purity of hue that a surface can reflect. When red is
all red it is said to be in full intensity. When black, white, or grey
is used in the colour there is a neutralization or a reduction in the
intensity. |
| Interchanging Double Cloth |
See under Double cloth |
| Interfacing |
Woven
or non-woven fabrics used to give body to certain areas of a garment.
It adds to the outward appearance of the garment if some areas are
reinforced, e.g. collars, buttoned openings, cuffs, pocket flaps, and
this structuring also makes the garment last longer. Interfacing has
always been a vital and integral part of tailoring, but until
comparatively recently was regarded as less important in dressmaking.
Now, however, a very wide range of types and weights of interfacing is
available, so it is not difficult to interface correctly and improve
the garment. Choice depends entirely on the fabric being sewn. In
general, the interfacing used in dressmaking should be lighter and
softer than the fabric, otherwise the interfacing will take over and
make the area where it is used to appear different. See Non-woven
canvas, Woven canvas, Iron-on canvas |
| Interlaced Yarn |
See Intermingled yarn
|
| Interlining |
An
insulation, padding, or stiffening fabric, either sewn to the wrong
side of the lining or the inner side of the outer shell fabric. The
interlining is used primarily to provide warmth in coats, jackets, and
outerwear.Any one of a wide variety of fabrics used between the inner
and outer layers of a garment to improve shape retention, strength,
warmth or bulk. Interlining may be of woven, knitted, or non-woven
material and may be produced with or without a fusible adhesive
coating. |
| Interlining |
1. A lightweight, napped, cotton, wool, or other fabric used in tailoring for extra weight or warmth.
2. Firm still linen canvas for men's coats.
|
| Interlining |
Woven or nonwoven fabric layer between outer cloth and lining of a garment for stiffening or giving warmth. |
| Interlining |
Any
textile which is intended for incorporation into an article of wearing
apparel as a layer between an outer shell and the ordinary inner
lining, for shape retention, strength, warmth or bulk. |
| Interlining |
Any
one of a wide variety of fabrics used between the inner and outer
layers of a garment to improve shape retention, strength, warmth or
bulk. Interlining may be of woven, knitted, or nonwoven material and
may be produced with or without a fusible adhesive coating. |
| Interlock |
The
stitch variation of the rib stitch, which resembles two separate 1 x 1
ribbed fabrics that are interknitted. Plain (double knit) interlock
stitch fabrics are thicker, heavier, and more stable than single knit
constructions. |
| Interlock |
W
stretchable fabric made on a circular knitting machine and consisting
of two ribbed fabrics joined by interlocking. A garment made of
interlock fabric, namely one that is stretchable and made on a circular
knitting machine and consisting of two ribbed fabrics joined by
interlocking |
| Inter lock Gating |
A type of needle gating, in which the opposed alignment of one set of needles with the other on a knitting machine. |
| Interlock knit |
A
fabric that has two-ply knit simultaneously to form one thicker and
heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than a jersey knit, a soft
hand, and the same appearance and feel on both sides. |
| Interlock Stitches |
A
versatile group of stitch types forming flat seams. Two to four needle
thread chain stitching in a parallel formation is joined together on
one side of the fabric by interlooping with a single thread. The other
side of the stitching may also be joined by one or more threads known
as covering threads. The classification of such seams is confused, in
that they fall into two groups within the BS/ISO system. |
| Interlock, Weft-Knitted |
A
double-faced rib-based structure consisting of two 1 x i rib fabrics
joined by interlock loops. It is made on machines equipped with two
sets of opposed needles, from various materials for a variety of
purposes, including outerwear. |
| Intermediate Colours |
Also called tertiary colours. Any colour that includes a mixture of a primary and secondary colour.
|
| Intermediate Cottons |
An
intermediate classification for cotton staple between short and long
staple (actually overlapped by both). Staple lengths of intermediates
range from 1.27 to 3.33cm. |
| Intermediates |
See Yarn intermediates |
| Intermingled Yarn |
A
multifilament yarn in which cohesion is imparted to the filament bundle
by entwining the filaments instead of or in addition to twisting. The
effect is usually achieved by passing the yarn under light tension
through the turbulent zone of an air-jet.Intermingling should be
distinguished from air-texturing in which a much higher level of
entanglement is achieved with the objective of producing texture or
bulk. |
| Intermingling Jet |
An
air-operated device used as an ancillary to some processes of yarn
extrusion, of drawing and of texturing to induce intermingling of
filaments and hence yarn coherence. See also Intermingled yarn |
| International Fibre Description |
See Table: 'International fabric description'. |
| Intermission Length/Hi-Lo |
An
intermission-length gown features a hem falling between the knees and
ankle; the Hi-Lo variation is a gown of intermission length on the
front and floor length or longer in the back. |
| International Grey Scale |
A comparative standard) scale used to rate degrees of colour fading from 5 (negligible or no-change) to 1 (severe change). |
| International Unit System |
To
simplify international co-operation in all sectors of industry and
commerce, the SI unit system (SI = Systeme International d' Unites) was
established. The SI is a rationalized selection of units in the metric
system which individually are not new and all other units are derived
from them. Few changes were necessary for countries that use the metric
system, nevertheless some changes were necessary to comply to the
international agreed usage of SI. The international system is based on
7 base units. All other units are derived from these units. Conversion
factors are 1 or decimal multiples and sub-multiples of 10. A system of
prefixes denoting decimal multiples and sub-multiples of the base units
has been established. See Tables of international unit system (SI) base
units and derived units, & Table of SI units used in the textile
industry |
| Inter-woven Yarn |
Same as Interlaced yarn |
| Intimate Blends |
Combining
two or more different fibre types into a uniform mixture before the
single yarn is spun. The combining of two or more staple fibres in a
spun yarn blended so intimately that individual fibber characteristics
are dominated by the blend. In a mixture, the various components
usually retain their identity. |
| Intimate Blend Yarn |
Different
fibres are blended together to make a yarn composed of two fibres. The
purpose is to mix the properties and characteristics of individual
fibres into one new mixed fibre. |
| Intrinsic Clo |
See Clo |
| Invisible Waste |
Weight loss due to dust, moisture, loose fibres, etc., carried away by the air. |
| Intumescent System |
Flame
Redundancy A flame retardant system, which undergoes charring and
foaming upon thermal degradation (for example, when exposed to an
ignition source such as a flame). A blown protective cellular char is
formed on the surface of the textile, providing protection from heat
and flame. |
| Inturned Welt |
A
welt consisting of a double fold of plain fabric made on a circular
stocking machine. Sinker loops from one of the first few courses are
retained while the welt fabric is knitted and are later intermeshed
with alternate needle loops of a subsequent course. |
| Inverness |
A loose belted coat having a cape with a close-fitting round collar |
| Invoice Mass |
The
mass, however determined, of a consignment of a textile material, which
is declared on the invoice. It is usually numerically equivalent to the
commercial mass. |
| Ion |
An atom or a group of atoms that carries an electric charge. |
| Ionization |
The
breaking up of a compound into separate ions. In aqueous solution, the
process in which a molecular compound reacts with water and forms ions. |
| Inwrought |
A
decoration, design or pattern worked into a fabric so as to be a part
of the cloth, e.g. Tapestry, Brocade, Damask, Brocatelle |
| Ionomer |
A
polymer characterized by covalent bonds between the constituents of the
long chain molecules and ionic bonds between the chains. |
| IPR |
See Inches per rack |
| Irised Print |
See Ombré print
|
| Iridescent |
A
fabric with a changeable color effect depending on the angle of view
and lighting. It is usually the result of weaving with one color in the
warp and another in the weft. |
| Iridescent buttons |
Buttons with a lustrous, rainbow-like hue. |
| Iridescent Effect |
See Changeable effect. |
| Iridescent Fabric |
A fabric with changeable colour or shot effects. May be the result of dye, finish or weave. /td>
|
| Iridescent Fabrics |
Changeable
effects noted in some cloths because of the colour arrangement in the
warp and filling yarns used to provide contrast and interest. Examples
include taffeta and comparable cloths, which show these varying tints
and hues as rays of light strike the goods. |
| Irised Print |
See Ombré print |
| Irish Lace |
Refers to any lace made in Ireland. Most often they are crochet or needlepoint laces. |
| Irish Lawn |
A lawn fabric produced from fine linen yarns. |
| Irish Linen |
A woven fabric produced in Ireland from 100% flax yam. |
| Irish Linen Yarn |
100% flax yarn spun in Ireland. |
| Irish Finish
|
A finish given to cotton fabric to imitate linen. |
| Irish Lace |
Term
to describe a heavy crochet lace with looped edges. Made in Ireland;
Carrickmacross and Limerick are two places of origin. See also Limerick
lace
|
| Irish Linen |
1.In yarn, 100% flax yarn spun in Ireland.
2.
In fabric, a fine quality linen fabric woven in Ireland from Irish
linen yarn. Used for handkerchiefs and table linen; coarser grades used
for tea towels and glass clothes.
|
| Irish Poplin |
A
poplin made from a dyed pure silk organzine warp and a three-fold
genapped fine worsted weft. It is a silk-face and silk-back fabric, the
weft being completely covered by the warp. The fabric is usually
hand-woven and is frequently given a moiré finish. |
| Irish Tweed |
White
warp and dark shade weft of blue, grey, brown, or black feature this
popular, rugged menswear fabric. Used for suiting and coating.Tweed
fabric from Ireland, usually with white warp and colored filling. See
Tweed.
|
| Iron Fix |
If
you are using a cellulose fabric (cotton, linen, viscose rayon, jute)
you can heat-set the paints with an iron. Iron the fabric on a hot
setting (the setting for the fabric) from the backside for 3-5 minutes.
You can also place a clean, dry cloth over the front of the fabric and
iron it for 3-5 minutes. Do not use steam and keep the iron moving to
prevent scorching. |
| Iron Grey |
A slightly greenish dark grey.
shaped mesh. |
| Ironing |
A method of pressing using a heated hand iron, sometimes together with moisture or steam, and a gliding motion.
|
| Iron Pressing of Textile |
A
process carried out on a textile article to restore its shape and
appearance, by means of an appropriate appliance using heat and
pressure. |
| Iron Liquor |
Ferrous
acetate. This chemical in its impure form find usage in textile
processing as a mordant, for certain black dyes on cotton and silk. |
| Iron-on Canvas Interfacings |
1.An
iron-on woven canvas does not give the shaping advantages of the sew-in
varieties. However, it is quick to use and is effective on flat areas
such as coat fronts, pocket flaps, hemlines (where added body is
needed.), etc. Selection to be according to the weight of fabric being
used:
2. A thick, soft canvas made from a mixture of linen and cotton
3. A very soft cotton canvas that would be suitable for the lightweight clothes used for women's coats and jackets.
|
| Iron-on Cotton |
Soft
cotton fabric, almost like muslin, with adhesive granules on the wrong
side. It would add slight stiffness to soft fabrics. Not cheap. |
| Iron-proofing |
Areatment
with caustic soda given to certain acetate fabrics. By saponifying the
surface of the cloth, the material becomes more resistant to damage
from high temperatures of pressing irons. |
| Iron Yarn |
A
smooth, stiff, cotton yarn, which has been starched and glazed.
Generally either white or black; mainly used for linings and hat
shapes. |
| Irregulars |
Any
article such as hosiery, sheets, and towels, which contains slight
imperfections that prevent it from being classed as first quality. |
| Irregular Satin Weave |
A variation of the satin weave in which the interlacings are not on the regular arrangement of the normal satin weave. |
| Irrigated Cotton |
Cotton
produced in the arid areas by irrigation. The physical properties are
different from rain grown cottons of the same variety, which may affect
dyeing properties. |
| ISA |
Acronym
for 'International Silk Association USA'. A promotional organization of
silk oriented mills and dealers whose primary objective is to promote
use of silk products in all forms. Maintains close contact with
affiliated organization in other silk producing and consuming countries
and takes an active interest in technical and commercial problems
affecting all aspects of silk. |
| Islands |
When
stores have a wide frontage and/or deep vestibule, an island is created
using a raised platform. Displays on islands can be seen from all
angles. Sometimes, this is also used as a selling space during store
promotions. |
| Islands In The Sea Fibre |
A
type of bi-component yarn in which one component polymer is formed,
during extrusion, as longitudinal strands within the matrix of a second
polymer. A type of biconstituent fibre.
This configuration has uses similar to the core-sheath type and also
may be used as an intermediate in the production of other specialised
types of fibre. |
| ISO |
Acronym for 'International Organization for Standardisation'. |
| ISO Standards |
An internationally recognized system that specifies the operating parameters that a good quality control system will employ. |
| Isotactic |
A type of polymer structure in which groups of atoms that are not part
of the backbone structure are located either all above or all below the
atoms in the backbone chain, when the latter are arranged all in one
plane. . |
| Isotactic Polymer |
A
linear polymer containing asymmetrically substituted carbon atoms in
the repeating unit in the main chain, a planar projection of whose
structure has the same substituents situated unifomly on the same side
of the main chain. See also Atactic polymer, Syndiotactic polymer |
| Italian |
A cotton fabric of five-end sateen weave with a lustrous finish. Used mainly as a lining material.
|
| Italian Hemstitching |
1.
A drawn fabric stitch worked with alternating vertical and horizontal
stitches. A line is formed similar to the blanket stitch, but with
openwork effect. May be used like machine hemstitching to finish seams
on sheer cloths to give a flat, strong, decorative effect.
2. A stitch used for embroidering linen or other fabrics with counted threads for making lines or for filling.
|
| Italian Silk |
Raw
silk of good grade. It is strong, elastic, easily processed and has no
imperfections. The boiled-off percentage is high. Used for dresses,
knit goods, high quality hosiery, underwear and tricot. |
| Itarsi |
A term used for Sunn. |
| ITT |
Acronym
for 'Institute of Textiles Technology'. A research and educational
institution located in Charlottsville, Va. It was organized by a group
of representative textile mills with the primary objective of
conducting research for its members. Also conducts graduate work in
textile technology and grants degrees. |
| Ivory |
A variable colour averaging a pale yellow. |
| IWS |
Acronym for 'International Wool Secretariat'. A worldwide scientific and promotional organization serving the wool industry.
|
| Ixtle |
Fibre
Linen, cotton. Weave: Dobby or basket.
Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the surface finish but finer,
shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have
small squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes
in white, colours, or coloured borders. Also stripes. The motif is made
from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose
effect in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing
agency.
|
| Izar |
A kind of pyjama.. |
| Izarband |
Drawstring at the waist for a garment like the pyjama. Literally, 'fastening of the izar' |
