| HABIT |
fabrics, garments,
made-ups, assemblies |
Good quality woollen,
medium-weight suiting material with a dress face finish. |
1. FABRIC. Good
quality woollen, medium-weight suiting material with a
dress face finish. Usually in dark colours and used for
suits and winter-weight dresses. Term applied widely to
a range of costume fabrics.
2. GARMENT.
(a) A riding costume worn by ladies.
(b) A sleeved tunic worn by those in holy orders.
(c) The dress characteristic of a particular rank, profession
or function
(d) Body apparel or attire |
| HABUTAI |
fabrics |
Term means 'soft
and light' |
1. Term means 'soft
and light' - and was originally used for Japanese waste
silk. Fabric is now made in many Far Eastern countries
on power looms in plain or twill weave; is heavier than
traditional Chinese silk, and is usually in natural ècru
colour. Used for men's jackets, women's shirtwaisters
and skirts.
2. There is a cheap Silk habutai, which is excellent as
a soft, lightweight lining fabric for evening dresses,
wedding-dresses, etc., especially for those who find synthetic
lining uncomfortable to wear. Not to be confused with
the thicker fabric. |
| HACKLING |
processes, operations |
A combing process
in the preparation of flax |
A combing process
in the preparation of flax, designed to separate and straighten
the fibres and remove tow. |
| HAIR |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Natural animal
fibre other than sheep's wool or silk. |
Natural animal
fibre other than sheep's wool or silk. Certain animals
other than sheep produce fibres, with special properties,
used in clothing fabrics, which are called hairs to distinguish
them from wool. In general these specialty hairs are more
expensive than wool, particularly in their better qualities,
and they are available in much smaller quantities than
wool. |
| HAIR CANVAS |
fabrics |
Woven interfacing
material in various weights |
Woven interfacing
material in various weights. Coarse goat hair combined
with wool, cotton or rayon is used in the filling. Used
in coats and jackets made from suitings and coatings.
There are several types of hair canvases to choose from,
according to the weight of the fabric being used,
1. Cotton canvas, fairly stiff, 45 % cotton with hair.
2. Softer canvas made from wool, viscose and hair. More
expensive. Better quality and a good choice for expensive
coatings and suitings.
3. Canvas made from a heavier yarn and hair, a good choice
for coat-weight fabrics.
4. Gray canvas with a thin white stripe. More expensive
than those above. Made from viscose, goat hair and polyester
yarn. Available in different weights.
5. Stiff gray canvas of leno weave construction, made
of cotton, viscose and goat hair. Used with coatings. |
| HAIR CLOTH |
fabrics |
A fabric in which
the weft consists of single fibres of horsehair |
1. A fabric in
which the weft consists of single fibres of horsehair,
obtained from tails and manes and woven on a special loom
which is capable of inserting picks of the discontinuous
fibres. The horse hair may be dyed. The woven structure,
which usually has a cotton warp, varies according to the
end-use, e.g. interlinings, finishing fabrics, sieve and
press cloths.
2. A fabric made of cotton, polyester, linen or other
fibres with which horsehair has been mixed to take it
strong and inflexible. Used in upholstery and also as
a chest canvas in tailoring. See also Woven interfacings. |
| HAIR NETS |
fabrics |
A net or mesh made
of real hair, silk or nylon |
A net or mesh made
of real hair, silk or nylon. Used as head covering. |
| HAIRCORD |
fabrics |
A plain-woven cotton
fabric |
A plain-woven cotton
fabric; characterized by fine rib lines in the warp direction
created by alternate coarse and fine ends, or by having
two (or more) ends weaving as one alternately with a single
end. These fabrics are produced piece dyed colours and
in prints. |
| HAIRCORD CARPET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A cord carpet in
which the pile is 100% hair. |
A cord carpet in
which the pile is 100% hair. |
| HAIRLINE STRIPE |
fabrics |
A fine hair-like
narrow striped colour effect, |
A fine hair-like
narrow striped colour effect, produced either by weaving
a single yarn of contrasting colour, or by printing either
lengthways (warp hairline) or crosswise (weft hairline)
in a fabric. |
| HAIRWEIGHT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The mass per unit
length of a fibre |
The mass per unit
length of a fibre, usually cotton, expressed in:
It is usually expressed by H. This is numerically equivalent
to millitex. See also Standard hairweight. |
| HAIRY |
defects |
See Fuzzing. |
See Fuzzing. |
| HALCHING |
processes, operations |
The operation
of looping the external yarn |
1. The operation
of looping the external yarn and around a cop or bobbin
to facilitate retrieval.
2. See under Leasing. |
| HALF BLOOD |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Blood. |
See Blood. |
| HALF CARDIGAN RIB |
fabrics |
A 1x1 rib fabric |
A 1x1 rib fabric
in which the wales on one side consist wholly of knitted
loops and the wales on the opposite side consist of a
held loop and a tuck loop. |
| HALF CLOTH |
fabrics |
A term sometimes
used to describe a fabric made of wool and cotton. |
A term sometimes
used to describe a fabric made of wool and cotton. |
| HALF DAMASK |
fabrics |
A damask fabric |
A damask fabric
made with silk warp and cotton or wool weft. |
| HALF RESIST |
processes, operations |
A partial resist
printing. |
A partial resist
printing. The shade is a weaker variation of the shade
produced in sections having no resist treatment |
| HALF-BLEACH FINISH |
fabrics |
A linen fabric
which is partially bleached |
A linen fabric
which is partially bleached, as distinguished from Full
bleach finish. |
| HALF-DROP |
processes, operations |
A kind of repeat
printing in which the print design unit is repeated at
a given distance |
A kind of repeat
printing in which the print design unit is repeated at
a given distance, not directly horizontal but stepped
down half its vertical dimension. Also known, in the textile
industry, as Step-half. |
| HALF-GAUGING |
processes, operations |
Removing alternate
needles from a knitting machine either physically or by
selection |
Removing alternate
needles from a knitting machine either physically or by
selection, to coarsen the gauge or to enable certain loop
manipulations to take place |
| HALF-HOSE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A leg covering
garment, ending at mid calf. |
A leg covering
garment, ending at mid calf. |
| HALF-MARL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Worsted. |
See under Worsted. |
| HALF-MILANO RIB |
fabrics |
A weft-knitted
rib-based fabric |
A weft-knitted
rib-based fabric, consisting of (i) one row of 1x1 rib
and (ii) one row of plain knitting made on either set
of needles. The appearance and characteristics of the
fabric are related to the ratio of the course lengths
of (i) and (ii). See also Milano rib. |
| HALF-POINT TRANSFER |
processes, operations |
See Knotted stitch
and Spread loop. |
See Knotted stitch
and Spread loop. |
| HALF-ROUND RUCHE |
accessories |
See under Ruche |
See under Ruche |
| HALF-STITCH |
seams, stitches |
Loose, open stitches
used in pillow laces |
Loose, open stitches
used in pillow laces |
| HALF-TONE EFFECT |
processes, operations |
In printing, a
gradual shading from light to dark in the same colour |
In printing, a
gradual shading from light to dark in the same colour |
| HALO |
defects |
See under Swealing |
See under Swealing |
| HAND |
fabrics |
See Hand of fabric |
See Hand of fabric |
| HAND BLOCK PRINTING |
processes, operations |
Process of printing
textiles using blocks |
Process of printing
textiles using blocks. The blocks are made of wood, linoleum
or metal, are used to apply thickened dyestuff pastes
at normal room temperatures. A separate block is used
for each different colour in the finished design. The
size of the block is limited by size and weight that the
printer can handle. It is a slow operation |
| HAND FLAT KNITTING
MACHINE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A 'V-bed', flat
bed or single bed latch needle knitting machine designed
to be powered by hand. |
A 'V-bed', flat
bed or single bed latch needle knitting machine designed
to be powered by hand. Such machines are widely used industrially,
where the product competes favourably with the power machine.
Very quick response and very short production runs are
possible. |
| HAND FRAME |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A characteristic
of the hand frame is the heavy oak 'frame' that supports
the working 'head'. |
Knitting machines
constructed like the original invented by the Reverend
William Lee in Calverton (1589), having horizontally mounted
bearded needles and drop down sinkers. A characteristic
of the hand frame is the heavy oak 'frame' that supports
the working 'head'. |
| HAND KERCHIEF LAWN |
fabrics |
See Handkerchief
linen. |
See Handkerchief
linen. |
| HAND KERCHIEF LINEN |
fabrics |
Also known as 'hand-kerchief
lawn'; it describes the finest cotton or linen lawn fabric,
or cambric, used for handkerchiefs. |
Also known as 'hand-kerchief
lawn'; it describes the finest cotton or linen lawn fabric,
or cambric, used for handkerchiefs. Made in plain colours
or printed; it can be boiled and hot-washed, and wears
very well. In addition to handkerchiefs it is used for
baby clothes, christening gowns and table linen. |
| HAND KNOTTED CARPET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A carpet made by
knotting tufts into a substrate by hand. |
A carpet made by
knotting tufts into a substrate by hand. The two most
common types of knot used are the Persian (or sehba) and
the Turkish (or ghiordes). |
| HAND LOOMED |
fabrics |
Also called Hand
woven. |
Also called Hand
woven. Fabrics, which are woven on either the hand or
hand-and-foot power loom. |
| HAND OF FABRIC |
fabrics |
Also called Hand
and Handle. The tactile sensations or impressions which
arise when fabrics are touched, squeezed, rubbed, or otherwise
handled. Term comprising various physical handling properties
of fabric |
Also called Hand
and Handle. The tactile sensations or impressions which
arise when fabrics are touched, squeezed, rubbed, or otherwise
handled. Term comprising various physical handling properties
of fabric, such as:
Flexibility: Term explaining ease of bending, varying
from pliable (high) to stiff (low).
Compressibility: Term explaining ease of squeezing, varying
from soft (high) to hard (low).
Extensibility: Term explaining ease of stretching, varying
from stretchy (high) to nonstretchy (low).
Resilience: Term explaining ability to recover from deformation,
varying from springy (high) to limp (low). Resilience
may be flexural, compressional, or torsional.
Density: Term explaining mass per unit volume (based on
measurement of thickness and fabric weight), varying from
compact (high) to open (low).
Surface contour: Term explaining divergence of the surface
from planeness, varying from rough (high) to smooth (low).
Surface friction: Term explaining resistance to slipping
offered by the surface, varying from harsh (high) to slippery
(low).
Thermal character: Term explaining apparent difference
in temperature of the fabric and skin of the observer
touching it, varying from cool (high) to warm (low). |
| HAND PICK |
defects |
A fabric defect |
A fabric defect,
produced when a pick is pulled out of line for a short
distance, resulting in a triangular shaped hole |
| HAND SCREEN PRINTING |
processes, operations |
Printing from flat
screens by hand. |
Printing from flat
screens by hand. |
| HAND SPUN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
Yarns, which are
spun by hand, or fabrics made from such yarns. |
Yarns, which are
spun by hand, or fabrics made from such yarns. They are
more interesting and unusual than the more uniform machine
spun |
| HAND WASHING |
processes, operations |
The most gentle
form of home laundering |
The most gentle
form of home laundering using hand manipulation without
the use of a machine or device such as a scrubbing board. |
| HAND WHEEL |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Balance wheel. |
See Balance wheel. |
| HAND WOVEN |
fabrics |
See Hand loomed. |
See Hand loomed. |
| HAND-HOLD |
processes, operations |
See Roving courses |
See Roving courses |
| HAND-OVERCAST SEAM-FINISH |
seams, stitches |
A finish for the
raw edges of a plain seam, in which hand stitches, are
taken over the raw edges of each seam allowance |
A finish for the
raw edges of a plain seam, in which hand stitches, are
taken over the raw edges of each seam allowance. A hand-overcast
seam-finish is made by using a single thread and needle
to stitch by hand 3 to 6 mm deep and 6 mm apart over the
raw edge of each seam allowance. |
| HAND-WASH, DRIP-DRY |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
See Wash-and-wear. |
See Wash-and-wear. |
| HANDLE |
fabrics, fibers,
filaments, yarns, apparatus, equipage, tools |
IN FABRIC. The
character of a fabric as determined by handling it. |
1. IN FABRIC. The
character of a fabric as determined by handling it. See
Hand of fabric.
2. IN GARMENT. A loop or loops fixed on a garment for
hanging it up.
3. AS AN APPLIANCE. A device of wood, metal or plastic
from which a garment may be hung. |
| HANDLOOM |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A hand operated
machine for producing cloth by weaving |
A hand operated
machine for producing cloth by weaving. In some instances,
the shedding is performed by foot operation |
| HANG PICK |
defects |
Also called Hang
shot. Fabric defect. |
Also called Hang
shot. Fabric defect. A pick, caught on a warp yarn knot
for a short distance, producing a triangular shaped hole
in the fabric. |
| HANG SHOT |
defects |
See Hang pick |
See Hang pick |
| HANK |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Also called Skein,
Reel. |
Also called Skein,
Reel.
1. In indirect yarn numbering system, a skein of such
a length that the number of such skeins per pound equals
the indirect yarn number (count); e.g. since the cotton
count is the number of 840 yard lengths per pound, a skein
having a length of 840 yard is a hank in that system.
See also Yarn numbering system.
2. An unsupported coil (e.g. approximately 135 cm in circumference)
composed of a specified number of wraps of yarn or sliver
and wound on a reeling machine with a cross-wound pattern
that allows the resulting assembly of strands to be leased.
Hanks may be bundled for ease of transport and storage.
After processes such as bleaching, dyeing, yarn from a
hank, mounted on a swift is wound onto a suitable package |
| HANK DYEING |
processes, operations |
Dyeing yarn that
has been reeled into hanks. |
Dyeing yarn that
has been reeled into hanks. Sometimes also called Skein
dyeing. |
| HANK SIZING |
processes, operations |
The sizing of yarn
in the form of hanks or skeins |
The sizing of yarn
in the form of hanks or skeins, normally used for experimental
work or short warps. |
| HANKING MACHINE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Reeling machine. |
See Reeling machine. |
| HARATEEN |
fabrics |
A furnishing cloth,
made with a worsted warp and a thicker worsted weft |
A furnishing cloth,
made with a worsted warp and a thicker worsted weft to
form horizontal ribs, and then finished by watering and
stamping. |
| HARD DOT |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In photogravure
printing, the system in which the cells are of differing
widths but of the same depth. |
In photogravure
printing, the system in which the cells are of differing
widths but of the same depth. |
| HARD END |
defects |
See Tight twist
end. |
See Tight twist
end. |
| HARD FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Leaf fibre. |
See Leaf fibre. |
| HARD FINISHED |
fabrics |
A fabric the face
of which is finished without any nap. |
1. Usually refers
to wool fabrics woven from tightly twisted yarns and finished
without napping.
2. A fabric the face of which is finished without any
nap. The term is applied to cotton, woollen and worsted
fabrics. |
| HARD LAID ROPE |
accessories |
See under Rope. |
See under Rope. |
| HARD SILK |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Raw silk, which
has not been degummed. |
Raw silk, which
has not been degummed. |
| HARD SIZE |
defects |
Also called Starch
lump. Fabric defect |
Also called Starch
lump. Fabric defect. Sections in the cloth, where the
warp contains an excessive quantity of sizing. |
| HARD SOAP |
³ |
Formula contains
sodium compounds of fatty acids that harden when exposed
to air. |
Formula contains
sodium compounds of fatty acids that harden when exposed
to air. |
| HARD SPUN YARNS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Yarns spun with
a high tight twist |
Yarns spun with
a high tight twist |
| HARD WASTE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Waste from reeling,
warping, winding, weaving, and cop bottoms |
Waste from reeling,
warping, winding, weaving, and cop bottoms |
| HARD WATER |
general |
Water having a
high magnesium or calcium content. |
Water having a
high magnesium or calcium content. A special soap is necessary
in order to make suds. |
| HARDANGER CLOTH |
fabrics |
Plain weave cotton
fabric of coarse construction, so that the weave is easily
visible. |
Plain weave cotton
fabric of coarse construction, so that the weave is easily
visible. Used for embroidery, especially the types where
threads have to be counted. The threads are usually arranged
in pairs |
| HARDENING |
processes, operations |
Treatment of man-made
regenerated protein filaments |
1. Treatment of
man-made regenerated protein filaments so as to render
them completely insoluble in cold water and cold dilute
saline solutions.
2. A process in the pressed felt industry and in hat manufacture
in which a mass of loose fibres, after being roughly shaped
by carding and forming is subjected to a high-speed vibratory
motion in the presence of steam while under considerable
mechanical pressure. |
| HARE HAIR |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The hair texture
of hare is soft and woolly |
The hair texture
of hare is soft and woolly. Hare hair is greatly used
in the USA. It may be spun with wool, to produce a result
similar to that of a wool/rabbit mixture |
| HARE POCKET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
An extra large
jetted pocket inserted in to the lining of a coat |
An extra large
jetted pocket inserted in to the lining of a coat, usually
fastened with buttons. |
| HARLEQUIN |
fabrics |
A large plaid check
in three or more contrasting colours; |
A large plaid check
in three or more contrasting colours; also, a large, bold
check, generally made with a white check and a contrasting
check of a vivid colour. |
| HARNESS |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In looms, a frame
containing a number of heddles which is moved up and down
to help form the warp shed |
In looms, a frame
containing a number of heddles which is moved up and down
to help form the warp shed, i.e. to separate the warp
yarns to make an opening for the weft yarns to pass through.
At least two harneses are required. |
| HARNESS BREAKDOWN |
defects |
Fabric defect,
major. |
Fabric defect,
major. Caused by the harness straps breaking on a conventional
loom. A definite pattern change in the weave will be seen
on the fabric. |
| HARNESS MARK |
defects |
Roughed-up warp
yarn shows in dark lines when the fabric is being woven. |
Roughed-up warp
yarn shows in dark lines when the fabric is being woven.
The result of the heddles not operating smoothly because
they are tight, loose or worn appreciably |
| HARNESS SKIP |
defects |
See Float |
See Float |
| HARRIS TWEED |
fabrics |
Rough, very hardwearing
tweed fabric in mixed natural colours with a distinctive
close weave and hairy finish. |
Rough, very hardwearing
tweed fabric in mixed natural colours with a distinctive
close weave and hairy finish.
Comes only from the islands of the Outer Hebrides, where
it was once made from hand-spun woollen yarn and the cloth
is labeled accordingly, but it is a very exclusive and
expensive cloth. The wool is usually dyed before spinning
so the colour mixtures in heather, lovat and brown are
standard types. The weave is usually 2/2 twill either
straight or herringbone and a variety of check patterns
are produced. The finish is full in handle and fibrous
although the weave is not obscured. Used mainly for expensive
tailored coats and suits. |
| HARVARD |
fabrics |
A shirting cloth
with 2/2 twill weave, usually with a coloured warp and
white weft. |
A shirting cloth
with 2/2 twill weave, usually with a coloured warp and
white weft. These are often ornamented by stripes of white
or coloured threads or by simple weave effects or by both. |
| HAT BODY |
fabrics |
Also called Hat
shape. Millinery fabric, which has been blocked. |
Also called Hat
shape. Millinery fabric, which has been blocked. This
is the form in which hat material is usually sold in the
millinery trade |
| HAT SHAPE |
fabrics |
See Hat body |
See Hat body |
| HATCHED |
fabrics |
Fabric in which
one pattern, colour or yarn is overlaid on another |
Fabric in which
one pattern, colour or yarn is overlaid on another. May
be woven or printed. The term also meant, crossed with
lines. |
| HATTING |
fabrics |
Millinery fabrics. |
Millinery fabrics. |
| HAUTEUR |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Fibre
length. |
See under Fibre
length. |
| HAWSER LAID ROPE |
accessories |
See under Rope |
See under Rope |
| HAWSER TWIST |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The construction
of cabled yarn, cord, or rope |
The construction
of cabled yarn, cord, or rope in which the single and
first-ply twist are in the same direction and the second-ply
twist is in the opposite direction, and S/S/Z or Z/Z/S
construction. |
| HEAD |
accessories, apparatus,
equipage, tools |
IN ZIPPERS. The
portion of the element that engages the pocket. |
1. IN ZIPPERS.
The portion of the element that engages the pocket.
2. IN PRESSING MACHINE. The upper, movable working surface
of the pressing machine which incorporates the mating
shape or contour to that of the buck. The head comes in
to contact with the garment with or without pressure. |
| HEAD BAND |
accessories |
A woven narrow
fabric used in bookbinding |
A woven narrow
fabric used in bookbinding, and having a coloured piped
or beaded edge woven integrally |
| HEAD END |
fabrics |
The beginning of
a new piece of fabric in the loom, |
1. The beginning
of a new piece of fabric in the loom, usually showing
identification marks.
2. A representative sample of a larger lot of cloth. |
| HEAD GIRTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| HEADING |
fabrics, accessories |
The beginning
and the end of a piece of woven fabric |
1. The beginning
and the end of a piece of woven fabric.
2. See under Fringe. |
| HEADSTOCK |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A geared head used
to drive a warp beam |
A geared head used
to drive a warp beam in the beaming, warping or slashing
operations. |
| HEALD |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Also called Heddle. |
Also called Heddle.
A device made of looped cord, shaped wire or thin, flat,
steel strip with an eye in the centre through which a
warp end is threaded so that its movement can then be
controlled during weaving. See also Harness |
| HEART YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A center thread
around which other threads are twisted to form core yarn. |
A center thread
around which other threads are twisted to form core yarn. |
| HEAT DURABILITY |
general |
The extent, to
which a material retains its useful properties at ambient
air conditions |
The extent, to
which a material retains its useful properties at ambient
air conditions, following its exposure to a specified
temperature and environment for a specified time and its
return to the ambient air conditions. (Compare Heat resistance.) |
| HEAT DURABLE |
general |
Having the property
of heat durability. |
Having the property
of heat durability. |
| HEAT FLUX |
general |
The thermal intensity
indicated by the amount of power per unit area. |
The thermal intensity
indicated by the amount of power per unit area. |
| HEAT RESISTANCE |
general |
The extent to which
a material retains its useful properties |
The extent to which
a material retains its useful properties as measured during
exposure of the material to a specified temperature and
environment for a specified time. (Compare Heat durability). |
| HEAT RESISTANT |
general |
Having the property
of heat resistance. |
Having the property
of heat resistance. |
| HEAT SHRINKAGE |
fabrics |
The change in dimension
of a fabric specimen exposed to heat. |
The change in dimension
of a fabric specimen exposed to heat. |
| HEAT TRANSFER COEFFICIENT |
general |
See Thermal transmittance. |
See Thermal transmittance. |
| HEAT TRANSFER PRINTING |
processes, operations |
A method of textile
printing |
A method of textile
printing in which, the complete design is transferred
from a previously printed transfer medium, usually paper,
on to the fabric with which it is in contact, by means
of heat and pressure. |
| HEAT-SETTING |
processes, operations |
Process of imposing
permanent dimensions upon thermoplastic garments and materials
by the action of heat, with or without steam. |
Process of imposing
permanent dimensions upon thermoplastic garments and materials
by the action of heat, with or without steam. When dimensional
constraints are applied, new linkages are formed which
stabilise the shape dictated and which will remain unchanged
until the material is subjected to a temperature higher
than that of heat-setting. There are two types of heat
setting; Dry heat-setting and Steam heat-setting, using
saturated steam.
The stage at which heat setting takes place varies according
to the type of material and the preferred sequence of
processes. Unless there are reasons to the contrary, setting
after dyeing is preferred. |
| HEATHER |
³ |
it is the basis
of the yellow dye used in dyeing Harris tweeds. |
A popular flower
in the British Isles; it is the basis of the yellow dye
used in dyeing Harris tweeds. |
| HEATHER MIX |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Varicoloured fibres
are blended |
Varicoloured fibres
are blended to produce a yarn with a mixed or speckled
effect. |
| HEATHER-MIXTURES |
fabrics |
Describes both
woven and knitted wool fabric found in a combination of
greens and purples, or Scottish heather colours. |
Describes both
woven and knitted wool fabric found in a combination of
greens and purples, or Scottish heather colours. Colours
are often used in equal amounts so that no one colour
predominates |
| HEAVY COLOUR |
defects |
See Machine stop. |
See Machine stop. |
| HEAVY DUTY SOAP |
³ |
A cleansing agent |
A cleansing agent
that has special alkalies added to improve its cleaning
power. |
| HEAVY END |
defects |
See Coarse end. |
See Coarse end. |
| HEAVY FILLING |
defects |
See Coarse pick |
See Coarse pick |
| HEAVY GOODS |
fabrics |
Another name which
is popular in India for Sacking. |
Another name which
is popular in India for Sacking. |
| HEAVY PICK |
defects |
See Coarse pick |
See Coarse pick |
| HEAVY PLACE |
defects |
See Coarse filling
bar |
See Coarse filling
bar |
| HEDDLE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Heald. |
See Heald. |
| HEIGHT |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system |
| HELANCA |
fabrics |
Made from Swiss
elastic fibre of nylon and polyester. |
Made from Swiss
elastic fibre of nylon and polyester. Fabrics have two-way
stretch and are very hardwearing and washable. Used for
sportswear, skiwear, swimsuits, trousers, and panels in
maternity clothes |
| HELD LOOP |
fabrics |
In knitting, a
loop which, having been pulled through the loop of the
previous course, is retained by the needle during the
knitting of one or more additional courses |
In knitting, a
loop which, having been pulled through the loop of the
previous course, is retained by the needle during the
knitting of one or more additional courses |
| HELICAL SELVEDGE |
fabrics |
See under Selvedge. |
See under Selvedge. |
| HELIX YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A textured yarn
that is curled or crimped |
A textured yarn
that is curled or crimped |
| HELVETIA |
fabrics |
A warp-faced poplin
made with greige silk warp and spun silk weft and printed
on both sides. |
A warp-faced poplin
made with greige silk warp and spun silk weft and printed
on both sides. The number of ends per inch are about twice
the number of picks. Weft is sometimes made of fine count
cotton. Similar to Japonais |
| HEM |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A folded edge produced
by turning in the edge of a garment and securing it. |
A folded edge produced
by turning in the edge of a garment and securing it. |
| HEM ALLOWANCE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The amount of fabric
turned under at the hemline. |
The amount of fabric
turned under at the hemline. |
| HEMLINE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The line along
which a hem is marked and folded. |
The line along
which a hem is marked and folded. |
| HEMMER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In sewing machine,
an attachment |
In sewing machine,
an attachment, which folds the material so that the edge
is turned under to form a hem when sewn. |
| HEMMING-STITCH |
seams, stitches |
A short, quickly
sewn, slanting stitch. |
A short, quickly
sewn, slanting stitch. |
| HEMP |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
True hemp is a
fine, light-coloured, lustrous, and strong bast fibre,
obtained from the hemp plant, 'Cannabis sativa'. |
True hemp is a
fine, light-coloured, lustrous, and strong bast fibre,
obtained from the hemp plant, 'Cannabis sativa'. A plant
similar to jute, grown in many countries. When spun, it
is rather like flax but thicker and coarser. It is a very
strong fibre and is used in the manufacture of carpets,
rugs, ropes, etc. but has limited use because bleaching
is difficult.
The term 'hemp' is often incorrectly used in a generic
sense for fibres from different plants, e.g. manila 'hemp',
sisal 'hemp', sunn 'hemp', etc, |
| HENEQUEN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A fibre obtained
from the leaf of 'Agava fourcroydes'. |
A fibre obtained
from the leaf of 'Agava fourcroydes'. This closely resembles
Sisal. |
| HENRIETTA |
fabrics |
Fine diagonal twilled
dress fabric made with silk warp and fine worsted weft,
which makes it, resemble Cashmere cloth. |
Fine diagonal twilled
dress fabric made with silk warp and fine worsted weft,
which makes it, resemble Cashmere cloth. Once in great
demand, but it has not been very much in evidence for
some time |
| HERRINGBONE |
fabrics |
WEAVE. A combination
of twill weaves in which the direction of the twill is
reversed |
1. WEAVE. A combination
of twill weaves in which the direction of the twill is
reversed (usually by drafting) to produce stripes resembling
'herringbones'
2. FABRIC. A cloth in which this weave is used. |
| HESSEN |
fabrics |
See Barras. |
See Barras. |
| HESSIAN |
fabrics |
Coarse, even, plain
weave and plain dyed cloth. Bast fibres, often coarse
jute, or sometimes jute and hemp yarns are used to make
this. |
Coarse, even, plain
weave and plain dyed cloth. Bast fibres, often coarse
jute, or sometimes jute and hemp yarns are used to make
this. Used for sacking and in upholstery, but it can also
be a well finished smooth cloth, dyed in a wide variety
of colours and used for wall-covering, notice board covering,
curtains and blinds.
Name applied in United Kingdom, India, and on the Continent
to material called 'burlap' in the United States. See
also Burlap |
| HETEROFIL FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Original generic
name for biconstituent fibres. Also called Meldable fibres. |
Original generic
name for biconstituent fibres. Also called Meldable fibres.
Multicomponent synthetic fibres have been made by extruding
two or more polymers, under conditions such that they
do not mix, through the same spinneret. These bicomponent
fibres may be structurally side-by-side, sheath-core or
eccentric sheath-core.
Heterofil or meldable fibres consist of a sheath of nylon
6, which has a comparatively low melting point and a core
of nylon 66 with a higher meting point. Filaments are
extruded from a battery of spinnerets on to a moving conveyor
and laid in random fashion to form a web. This is then
heated so that the filament skin of the individual fibre
softens and melts and spot bonds are formed where the
heterofil fibres touch. The web is next passed to a cooling
zone where the skin solidifies to form a permanent bond
at each intersection. The method of fabric production
varies. In some cases the web is needled and then passed
through an oven to produce the inter-fibre bonds. Alternatively
the web can be passed beneath a heated pressure roller.
This method has the benefit that a lower processing temperature
can be used and an embossed roller will produce a surface
pattern on the fabric.
An example of hetrofil fibre is the Nylon hetrofil fibre
available with a sheath of nylon 6 and a core of nylon
66. |
| HETEROFILAMENTS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Heterofil fibre. |
See Heterofil fibre. |
| HETEROTYPICAL FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A coarse type of
carpet wool whose fibre structure varies along its entire
length; |
A coarse type of
carpet wool whose fibre structure varies along its entire
length; it is questionable whether this fibre can be classified
as Wool or Hair |
| HI-LO PILE |
fabrics |
The pile texture
of domestic rugs. |
The pile texture
of domestic rugs. Certain areas of pile are sheared so
that the pile is higher (Hi) than the pile in other areas
(Lo). |
| HICKORY CLOTH |
fabrics |
This resembles
Ticking, but is lighter in weight and not so firmly woven. |
This resembles
Ticking, but is lighter in weight and not so firmly woven.
Made from cotton, or polyester and cotton. Used for protective
clothing, overalls, etc. |
| HIDING POWER |
fabrics |
The ability of
a fabric to obscure what lies underneath it. |
The ability of
a fabric to obscure what lies underneath it. |
| HIGH CHARGED SYSTEM |
processes, operations |
See under Charged
system. |
See under Charged
system. |
| HIGH COUNT FABRICS |
fabrics |
Closely woven fabrics. |
Closely woven fabrics. |
| HIGH ELONGATION
HWM FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under HWM modal
fibre. |
See under HWM modal
fibre. |
| HIGH STRENGTH HWM
FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under HWM modal
fibre |
See under HWM modal
fibre |
| HIGH TEMPERATURE
FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibres capable
of retaining useful properties at elevated temperatures, |
Fibres capable
of retaining useful properties at elevated temperatures,
above about 400 °C., e.g. Aluminium silicate fibre |
| HIGH VOLUME INSTRUMENTATION |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Also called HVI. |
Also called HVI.
An assembly of integrated semi-automatic electronic instruments
for rapid determination of the fineness, length, impurity
content and strength of samples of raw cotton. |
| HIGH WARP |
fabrics |
A warp hung vertically
in the loom instead of horizontally, as is now usual. |
A warp hung vertically
in the loom instead of horizontally, as is now usual.
Particularly apples to tapestry looms |
| HIGH-BULK YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A fluffy, textured
yarn, made from a combination of high and low shrinkage
staple fibres. |
A fluffy, textured
yarn, made from a combination of high and low shrinkage
staple fibres. When the combined yarn is immersed in water
during processing, the high shrinkage fibre draws itself
down to the centre of the yarn causing the low shrinkage
fibres to buckle or fluff, thus producing a fluffy yarn
sited for sweaters or similar purposes. See also Bulky
yarn. |
| HIGH-BUST GIRTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system |
| HIGH-HIP GIRTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| HIGH-SPEED SPINNING |
processes, operations |
A melt spinning
process |
A melt spinning
process in which filaments are drawn down and collected
at high speeds. |
| HIGH-TEMPERATURE
DYEING |
processes, operations |
Also called HTHP
(High Temperature High Pressure) dyeing. |
Also called HTHP
(High Temperature High Pressure) dyeing.
Dyeing at high-pressure (above atmospheric) in order to
dye at a temperature above the normal boiling point. Application
of dyestuffs, especially to petroleum based synthetic
fibres, in aqueous baths at temperatures upto even 390
ºC. in pressurised equipment |
| HIGH-TENACITY FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A man-made fibre
either, belonging to a generic class of fibres having
exceptional breaking strength. |
A man-made fibre
either, belonging to a generic class of fibres having
exceptional breaking strength.
A man-made fibre, modified by various methods to give
it increased tensile strength. This will have a breaking
strength significantly greater than the average strength
of other (regular tenacity) fibres in same generic class
and of equivalent linear densities.
High-tenacity fibres are usually used in industrial products
where mechanical properties, such as strength, are major
factors in fibre selecti |
| HIMALAYA |
fabrics |
Appearance and
weight is like Shantung, but is made from slub cotton
yarns. |
Appearance and
weight is like Shantung, but is made from slub cotton
yarns. |
| HIP |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system |
| HIP GIRTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| HITCH-BACK |
defects |
See Draw-back. |
See Draw-back. |
| HOCKLE |
defects |
Sometimes also
called Cockle |
Sometimes also
called Cockle. In cordage, deformation of the strands
in a laid rope, during manufacture, caused by the removal
of kinks by pulling them out of the rope by force. |
| HOG WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The first clip
from a sheep not shorn as a lamb. |
Also called Hogget
wool, and Teg wool. The first clip from a sheep not shorn
as a lamb. |
| HOGGET WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Hog wool. |
See Hog wool. |
| HOLE |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
An imperfection where one or more yarns are sufficiently
damaged to create an aperture. Usually caused by broken
needle. |
| HOLE COUNT |
fabrics |
See under Lace
quality |
See under Lace
quality |
| HOLLAND |
fabrics |
A completely filled,
medium-weight, plain-weave fabric made from linen or cotton
yarn, having a smooth gloss finish on both sides |
A completely filled,
medium-weight, plain-weave fabric made from linen or cotton
yarn, having a smooth gloss finish on both sides; the
finish of size and oil is applied to stiffen it. Mainly
used as a separating medium for sheeted rubber compounds
and in upholstery for undercovering, as it is firm and
hardwearing. Holland is also a canvas interfacing. See
Woven interfacings. |
| HOLLIE POINT LACE |
fabrics |
A needlepoint lace
worked in patterns |
A needlepoint lace
worked in patterns depicting scriptural subjects or religious
emblems. |
| HOLLIE-STITCH |
seams, stitches |
A type of buttonhole-stitch
with a twist. |
A type of buttonhole-stitch
with a twist. Used in making Hollie point lace |
| HOLLOW BRAID |
accessories |
In rope, a braided
construction of either plain or twill braid, having an
empty centre. |
In rope, a braided
construction of either plain or twill braid, having an
empty centre. |
| HOLLOW FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A tube-like fibre
or filament made in viscose, polyester and some other
fibres, making use of the theory of still air for warmth. |
A tube-like fibre
or filament made in viscose, polyester and some other
fibres, making use of the theory of still air for warmth.
The |
