| HABIT |
Good quality woollen,
medium-weight suiting material with a dress face finish. |
| HABUTAI |
Term means 'soft
and light' |
| HACKLING |
A combing process
in the preparation of flax |
| HAIR |
Natural animal
fibre other than sheep's wool or silk. |
| HAIR CANVAS |
Woven interfacing
material in various weights |
| HAIR CLOTH |
A fabric in which
the weft consists of single fibres of horsehair |
| HAIR NETS |
A net or mesh made
of real hair, silk or nylon |
| HAIRCORD |
A plain-woven cotton
fabric |
| HAIRCORD CARPET |
A cord carpet in
which the pile is 100% hair. |
| HAIRLINE STRIPE |
A fine hair-like
narrow striped colour effect, |
| HAIRWEIGHT |
The mass per unit
length of a fibre |
| HAIRY |
See Fuzzing. |
| HALCHING |
The operation
of looping the external yarn |
| HALF BLOOD |
See Blood. |
| HALF CARDIGAN RIB |
A 1x1 rib fabric |
| HALF CLOTH |
A term sometimes
used to describe a fabric made of wool and cotton. |
| HALF DAMASK |
A damask fabric |
| HALF RESIST |
A partial resist
printing. |
| HALF-BLEACH FINISH |
A linen fabric
which is partially bleached |
| HALF-DROP |
A kind of repeat
printing in which the print design unit is repeated at
a given distance |
| HALF-GAUGING |
Removing alternate
needles from a knitting machine either physically or by
selection |
| HALF-HOSE |
A leg covering
garment, ending at mid calf. |
| HALF-MARL |
See under Worsted. |
| HALF-MILANO RIB |
A weft-knitted
rib-based fabric |
| HALF-POINT TRANSFER |
See Knotted stitch
and Spread loop. |
| HALF-ROUND RUCHE |
See under Ruche |
| HALF-STITCH |
Loose, open stitches
used in pillow laces |
| HALF-TONE EFFECT |
In printing, a
gradual shading from light to dark in the same colour |
| HALO |
See under Swealing |
| HAND |
See Hand of fabric |
| HAND BLOCK PRINTING |
Process of printing
textiles using blocks |
| HAND FLAT KNITTING
MACHINE |
A 'V-bed', flat
bed or single bed latch needle knitting machine designed
to be powered by hand. |
| HAND FRAME |
A characteristic
of the hand frame is the heavy oak 'frame' that supports
the working 'head'. |
| HAND KERCHIEF LAWN |
See Handkerchief
linen. |
| HAND KERCHIEF LINEN |
Also known as 'hand-kerchief
lawn'; it describes the finest cotton or linen lawn fabric,
or cambric, used for handkerchiefs. |
| HAND KNOTTED CARPET |
A carpet made by
knotting tufts into a substrate by hand. |
| HAND LOOMED |
Also called Hand
woven. |
| HAND OF FABRIC |
Also called Hand
and Handle. The tactile sensations or impressions which
arise when fabrics are touched, squeezed, rubbed, or otherwise
handled. Term comprising various physical handling properties
of fabric |
| HAND PICK |
A fabric defect |
| HAND SCREEN PRINTING |
Printing from flat
screens by hand. |
| HAND SPUN |
Yarns, which are
spun by hand, or fabrics made from such yarns. |
| HAND WASHING |
The most gentle
form of home laundering |
| HAND WHEEL |
See Balance wheel. |
| HAND WOVEN |
See Hand loomed. |
| HAND-HOLD |
See Roving courses |
| HAND-OVERCAST SEAM-FINISH |
A finish for the
raw edges of a plain seam, in which hand stitches, are
taken over the raw edges of each seam allowance |
| HAND-WASH, DRIP-DRY |
See Wash-and-wear. |
| HANDLE |
IN FABRIC. The
character of a fabric as determined by handling it. |
| HANDLOOM |
A hand operated
machine for producing cloth by weaving |
| HANG PICK |
Also called Hang
shot. Fabric defect. |
| HANG SHOT |
See Hang pick |
| HANK |
Also called Skein,
Reel. |
| HANK DYEING |
Dyeing yarn that
has been reeled into hanks. |
| HANK SIZING |
The sizing of yarn
in the form of hanks or skeins |
| HANKING MACHINE |
See Reeling machine. |
| HARATEEN |
A furnishing cloth,
made with a worsted warp and a thicker worsted weft |
| HARD DOT |
In photogravure
printing, the system in which the cells are of differing
widths but of the same depth. |
| HARD END |
See Tight twist
end. |
| HARD FIBRE |
See Leaf fibre. |
| HARD FINISHED |
A fabric the face
of which is finished without any nap. |
| HARD LAID ROPE |
See under Rope. |
| HARD SILK |
Raw silk, which
has not been degummed. |
| HARD SIZE |
Also called Starch
lump. Fabric defect |
| HARD SOAP |
Formula contains
sodium compounds of fatty acids that harden when exposed
to air. |
| HARD SPUN YARNS |
Yarns spun with
a high tight twist |
| HARD WASTE |
Waste from reeling,
warping, winding, weaving, and cop bottoms |
| HARD WATER |
Water having a
high magnesium or calcium content. |
| HARDANGER CLOTH |
Plain weave cotton
fabric of coarse construction, so that the weave is easily
visible. |
| HARDENING |
Treatment of man-made
regenerated protein filaments |
| HARE HAIR |
The hair texture
of hare is soft and woolly |
| HARE POCKET |
An extra large
jetted pocket inserted in to the lining of a coat |
| HARLEQUIN |
A large plaid check
in three or more contrasting colours; |
| HARNESS |
In looms, a frame
containing a number of heddles which is moved up and down
to help form the warp shed |
| HARNESS BREAKDOWN |
Fabric defect,
major. |
| HARNESS MARK |
Roughed-up warp
yarn shows in dark lines when the fabric is being woven. |
| HARNESS SKIP |
See Float |
| HARRIS TWEED |
Rough, very hardwearing
tweed fabric in mixed natural colours with a distinctive
close weave and hairy finish. |
| HARVARD |
A shirting cloth
with 2/2 twill weave, usually with a coloured warp and
white weft. |
| HAT BODY |
Also called Hat
shape. Millinery fabric, which has been blocked. |
| HAT SHAPE |
See Hat body |
| HATCHED |
Fabric in which
one pattern, colour or yarn is overlaid on another |
| HATTING |
Millinery fabrics. |
| HAUTEUR |
See under Fibre
length. |
| HAWSER LAID ROPE |
See under Rope |
| HAWSER TWIST |
The construction
of cabled yarn, cord, or rope |
| HEAD |
IN ZIPPERS. The
portion of the element that engages the pocket. |
| HEAD BAND |
A woven narrow
fabric used in bookbinding |
| HEAD END |
The beginning of
a new piece of fabric in the loom, |
| HEAD GIRTH |
Garment-related
term. |
| HEADING |
The beginning
and the end of a piece of woven fabric |
| HEADSTOCK |
A geared head used
to drive a warp beam |
| HEALD |
Also called Heddle. |
| HEART YARN |
A center thread
around which other threads are twisted to form core yarn. |
| HEAT DURABILITY |
The extent, to
which a material retains its useful properties at ambient
air conditions |
| HEAT DURABLE |
Having the property
of heat durability. |
| HEAT FLUX |
The thermal intensity
indicated by the amount of power per unit area. |
| HEAT RESISTANCE |
The extent to which
a material retains its useful properties |
| HEAT RESISTANT |
Having the property
of heat resistance. |
| HEAT SHRINKAGE |
The change in dimension
of a fabric specimen exposed to heat. |
| HEAT TRANSFER COEFFICIENT |
See Thermal transmittance. |
| HEAT TRANSFER PRINTING |
A method of textile
printing |
| HEAT-SETTING |
Process of imposing
permanent dimensions upon thermoplastic garments and materials
by the action of heat, with or without steam. |
| HEATHER |
it is the basis
of the yellow dye used in dyeing Harris tweeds. |
| HEATHER MIX |
Varicoloured fibres
are blended |
| HEATHER-MIXTURES |
Describes both
woven and knitted wool fabric found in a combination of
greens and purples, or Scottish heather colours. |
| HEAVY COLOUR |
See Machine stop. |
| HEAVY DUTY SOAP |
A cleansing agent |
| HEAVY END |
See Coarse end. |
| HEAVY FILLING |
See Coarse pick |
| HEAVY GOODS |
Another name which
is popular in India for Sacking. |
| HEAVY PICK |
See Coarse pick |
| HEAVY PLACE |
See Coarse filling
bar |
| HEDDLE |
See Heald. |
| HEIGHT |
Garment-related
term. |
| HELANCA |
Made from Swiss
elastic fibre of nylon and polyester. |
| HELD LOOP |
In knitting, a
loop which, having been pulled through the loop of the
previous course, is retained by the needle during the
knitting of one or more additional courses |
| HELICAL SELVEDGE |
See under Selvedge. |
| HELIX YARN |
A textured yarn
that is curled or crimped |
| HELVETIA |
A warp-faced poplin
made with greige silk warp and spun silk weft and printed
on both sides. |
| HEM |
A folded edge produced
by turning in the edge of a garment and securing it. |
| HEM ALLOWANCE |
The amount of fabric
turned under at the hemline. |
| HEMLINE |
The line along
which a hem is marked and folded. |
| HEMMER |
In sewing machine,
an attachment |
| HEMMING-STITCH |
A short, quickly
sewn, slanting stitch. |
| HEMP |
True hemp is a
fine, light-coloured, lustrous, and strong bast fibre,
obtained from the hemp plant, 'Cannabis sativa'. |
| HENEQUEN |
A fibre obtained
from the leaf of 'Agava fourcroydes'. |
| HENRIETTA |
Fine diagonal twilled
dress fabric made with silk warp and fine worsted weft,
which makes it, resemble Cashmere cloth. |
| HERRINGBONE |
WEAVE. A combination
of twill weaves in which the direction of the twill is
reversed |
| HESSEN |
See Barras. |
| HESSIAN |
Coarse, even, plain
weave and plain dyed cloth. Bast fibres, often coarse
jute, or sometimes jute and hemp yarns are used to make
this. |
| HETEROFIL FIBRE |
Original generic
name for biconstituent fibres. Also called Meldable fibres. |
| HETEROFILAMENTS |
See Heterofil fibre. |
| HETEROTYPICAL FIBRE |
A coarse type of
carpet wool whose fibre structure varies along its entire
length; |
| HI-LO PILE |
The pile texture
of domestic rugs. |
| HICKORY CLOTH |
This resembles
Ticking, but is lighter in weight and not so firmly woven. |
| HIDING POWER |
The ability of
a fabric to obscure what lies underneath it. |
| HIGH CHARGED SYSTEM |
See under Charged
system. |
| HIGH COUNT FABRICS |
Closely woven fabrics. |
| HIGH ELONGATION
HWM FIBRES |
See under HWM modal
fibre. |
| HIGH STRENGTH HWM
FIBRES |
See under HWM modal
fibre |
| HIGH TEMPERATURE
FIBRE |
Fibres capable
of retaining useful properties at elevated temperatures, |
| HIGH VOLUME INSTRUMENTATION |
Also called HVI. |
| HIGH WARP |
A warp hung vertically
in the loom instead of horizontally, as is now usual. |
| HIGH-BULK YARN |
A fluffy, textured
yarn, made from a combination of high and low shrinkage
staple fibres. |
| HIGH-BUST GIRTH |
Garment-related
term. |
| HIGH-HIP GIRTH |
Garment-related
term |
| HIGH-SPEED SPINNING |
A melt spinning
process |
| HIGH-TEMPERATURE
DYEING |
Also called HTHP
(High Temperature High Pressure) dyeing. |
| HIGH-TENACITY FIBRE |
A man-made fibre
either, belonging to a generic class of fibres having
exceptional breaking strength. |
| HIMALAYA |
Appearance and
weight is like Shantung, but is made from slub cotton
yarns. |
| HIP |
Garment-related
term |
| HIP GIRTH |
Garment-related
term. |
| HITCH-BACK |
See Draw-back. |
| HOCKLE |
Sometimes also
called Cockle |
| HOG WOOL |
The first clip
from a sheep not shorn as a lamb. |
| HOGGET WOOL |
See Hog wool. |
| HOLE |
Fabric defect. |
| HOLE COUNT |
See under Lace
quality |
| HOLLAND |
A completely filled,
medium-weight, plain-weave fabric made from linen or cotton
yarn, having a smooth gloss finish on both sides |
| HOLLIE POINT LACE |
A needlepoint lace
worked in patterns |
| HOLLIE-STITCH |
A type of buttonhole-stitch
with a twist. |
| HOLLOW BRAID |
In rope, a braided
construction of either plain or twill braid, having an
empty centre. |
| HOLLOW FIBRE |
A tube-like fibre
or filament made in viscose, polyester and some other
fibres, making use of the theory of still air for warmth. |
| HOLLOW SPINDLE
SPINNING |
Also called Wrap
spinning. A system of yarn formation in which the feed
stock (sliver or roving) is drafted, and the drafted twistless
strand is wrapped with a yarn as it passes through a rotating
hollow spindle |
| HOLLOW-FILAMENT
YARN |
Also called Aerated
yarn. A viscose rayon yarn produced from a spinning solution
in which bubbles of air or inert gas are systematically
formed by incorporating fluids or solids with the viscose
solution to produce a gas. |
| HOME LAUNDERING |
A process by which
textile products or parts thereof may be washed, bleached,
dried, and pressed |
| HOMESPUN |
Rather coarse,
plain-weave woollen fabric with a hand-woven appearance,
which was once actually woven in the home in all countries. |
| HOMOPOLYMER |
A polymer composed
of one substance or one type of molecule |
| HOMOPOLYMER FIBRE |
A man-made fibre |
| HONAN |
Fabric made from
silk yarn obtained from the Honan area of China, which
is the only type of wild silk that accepts dye evenly. |
| HONEYCOMB |
A fabric, in which
the warp and weft threads form ridges and hollows, which
give a cell-like appearance. |
| HONEYCOMB STITCH |
A stitch made by
gathering and sewing the cloth in either a diamond or
honeycomb fashion; sometimes called smocking. |
| HONEYDEW |
The result of infestation
of growing cotton by aphids or whitefly. |
| HONG KONG SEAM-FINISH |
A finish for the
raw edges of a plain seam, in which a binding fabric encloses
the raw edge of each seam allowance |
| HONITON LACE |
Hand-made lace |
| HOOD |
Also called Body. |
| HOOK |
In sewing machine,
a rotating device which accommodates the spool |
| HOOK AND LOOP FASTENERS |
See Self-fastening
tape fasteners. |
| HOOK-AND-EYE FASTENERS |
Used as garment
closures. |
| HOOKED BOW |
Fabric defect. |
| HOPSACK |
Also called Mat,
Matt, Basket. Originally hopsack was a coarse double yarn
sacking, made from jute or hemp. |
| HOPSACK WEAVE |
See Basket weave. |
| HORIZONTAL LINE |
Same as Ring |
| HORSE BLANKET |
See under Tattersal
check under Checks. |
| HORSE HAIR |
Long, very coarse
hair from manes and tails of horses. |
| HOSE |
A total leg covering
ending in a position above the knee. |
| HOSIERY |
Knitted coverings
for feet and legs |
| HOSIERY KNITTING
MACHINES |
A knitting machine
for the production of hosiery |
| HOSPITAL GAUZE |
bleached and sterilized
cheesecloth used in hospitals. |
| HOT HEAD PRESS |
Equipment capable
of generating high temperatures and great pressure. |
| HOT MERCERIZATION |
The treatment of
cellulosic fabric with a hot concentrated solution of
caustic alkali |
| HOT NOTCHER |
A machine with
a heated blade |
| HOT PRESSING |
A process for smoothing
and possibly shaping textile products |
| HOT WATER EXTRACTION |
A method of cleaning
carpet |
| HOT-FLUE |
A machine in which
hot air is used to dry fabric carried on rollers along
a serpentine path. |
| HOT-FLUID JET TEXTURING |
See under Texturing. |
| HOTTENROTH NUMBER |
A measure of the
degree of ripening of viscose. |
| HOUNDSTOOTH CHECK |
A four-pointed
star check design in a broken twill weave |
| HOUSEKEEPING DEFECTS
IN GARMENT |
See under Garment
defects, classified. |
| HT DYEING |
See High-temperature
dyeing. |
| HTHP DYEING |
See High Temperature
High Pressure dyeing. |
| HUCK |
See Huckaback. |
| HUCK TOWEL |
See under Towel. |
| HUCKABACK |
Linen or cotton
fabric with a square weave |
| HUCKABACK WEAVE |
Lengthwise, but
interrupted ridges are formed by floats of warp threads
on the surface of the cloth |
| HUDSONS BAY |
Also called Point
blanket. |
| HUE |
Also called Tone |
| HUMAN TISSUE BURN
TOLERANCE |
The amount of thermal
energy, which causes a second-degree burn in human tissue. |
| HUMIDITY |
The condition of
the atmosphere in respect to water vapour |
| HUNGBACK |
A light weight
warp-backed or weft-backed overcoating fabric |
| HUNGRY CLOTH |
See Grinny cloth. |
| HUNTER'S PINK |
Brilliant scarlet
velvet cloth worn by hunters. |
| HUSKS |
See Bisu. |
| HVI |
See High volume
instrumentation. |
| HWM MODAL FIBRE |
These fibres are
characterized by high wet modulus (HWM), i.e. resistance
to extension when wet, increased ratio of wet to dry breaking
tenacity, increased resistance to swelling by caustic
alkalis, high degree of polymerization of cellulose, and
micro-fibrillar structure. |
| HYDROENTANGLED
FABRIC |
Also called Spunlaced
fabric. |
| HYDROEXTRACTION |
A method of removing
excess water and moisture from materials |
| HYDROLYTIC STABILITY |
The ability to
withstand the environmental effects of high humidity. |
| HYDROMETER |
A device for measuring
the density or specific gravity, particularly of liquids
and solutions. |
| HYDROPHILIC |
Water attracting. |
| HYDROPHOBIC |
Water repelling. |
| HYDROSCOPIC |
Moisture retaining
property. |
| HYDROSTATIC TEST |
A test to determine
the resistance of a fabric to penetration by water. |
| HYGRAL EXPANSION |
The reversible
changes in length and width of fabrics containing hygroscopic
fibres as a result of changes in regain. |
| HYGROMETER |
Any instrument
for measuring the humidity of the atmosphere |
| HYGROSCOPIC |
Having a tendency
to absorb water from the air. |
| HYPOCHLORITE BLEACHING |
The process of
whitening textile fabrics |
