| Gabardine |
A compactly woven, durable
fabric with warp-faced twill, which shows a
decided diagonal line on the face of the goods;
made on 45º or 63º left hand twill if single
plied yarns are used or right hand twill if a
two plied yarn is used in the weft. The steep
twill is obtained by setting the warp yarns
closely together, and opening the weft yarn
spacing. The face twills are made prominent by
arranging the loom so that warp yarns on the
back of the cloth are pulled together than those
on the face. The special construction hides the
weft almost completely. Though originally a
rainwear fabric, it is made in a variety of
weights, constructions and colours for dress and
suiting use. Originally a worsted fabric, it is
now made from most major fibers, alone or in
blends in various weights. Wool gabardine is
known as a year-round fabric for business
suiting. |
| Gaberdine |
See Gabardine |
| Gage |
See Gauge |
| Gaging Thread |
A heavy thread temporarily woven
near the edge of a fabric. It is similar to
catch cord. It is withdrawn, after weaving,
leaving the filling threads forming a loop
selvedge. |
| Gait (flax) |
A large handful of loose, pulled
flax, stood up on end in a cone form to dry.
|
| Gait (lace Machines) |
(1) The distance between the
centres of adjacent comb blades, (2) A measure
of the distance over which a thread is moved
|
| Gait |
1. In weaving, a full repeat of
the draft in the healds, or in the case of
Jacquard, in one complete row of the harness. 2.
In lace machines, the distance between the
centres of adjacent comb blades. 3. In lace
machines, a measure of the distance over which a
thread is moved. One gait means one comb space.
4. A term used to describe a large handful of
loose, pulled flax, stood up on end, in a cone
form, for drying |
| Gaiter |
A cloth or leather leg covering
reaching from the instep to above the ankle or
to mid-calf or knee; an ankle-high shoe with
elastic gores in the sides; and overshoe with
fabric upper
|
| Gaiting |
1. See Gait up 2. See Gating
|
| Gaiting (knitting) |
See Gating (knitting) |
| Gait-over |
A complete repeat of a design in
dobby weave. |
| Gait-up |
A general term used to describe
the positioning of the warp, healds, and reed in
a weaving machine, in readiness for weaving.
Where drop wires are mounted on the warp during
warp preparation, gaiting also indicates the
positioning of the drop wires. |
| Galants or Gallants |
Small ribbon bows, which were
worn in the mid 17th century in the hair and
attached to the garments in various places.
|
| Galatea |
A sturdy cotton fabric made in
plain, or simple stripe patterns, using
warp-effect, 5-shaft left-hand twill weave. The
fabric is usually given a hard lustrous finish,
which repels dirt. Used for nurses' uniforms,
children's middies and play clothes, and as
linings. |
| Gala Twill |
The term used to describe a four
up, four down, twill weave |
| Gallants |
See Galants |
| Galligaskins |
Loose hose or breeches worn in
the 16th and 17th centuries; very loose
trousers; [Chiefly British] leggings |
| Galloon |
Lace. |
| Galloon |
1. Ribbon used as a band on
men's hats, and as a binding on ladies' court
shoes; the metallic ones used to decorate
uniforms. 2. Narrow trimming braid, embroidery,
or lace, sometimes made with metallic yarns.
|
| Galloon Lace |
A banded lace fabric with
finished scalloped or fancy at both edges, which
is stitched on the top of a fabric for
decorative purposes |
| Gallus |
Chiefly dialectical] suspender,
usually used in plural. |
| Galosh |
A high overshoe worn especially
in snow and slush. |
| Gambando |
A horseman's legging |
| Gamboge |
A strong yellow |
| Gamla Buti |
A popular motif in textile
design in India, consisting of flowers of
different kinds growing in a flowerpot, neatly
arranged |
| Gamma Value |
The mean number of xanthate
groups per 100 glucose residues in cellulose
xanthate. |
| Galvano, Directly Designed
|
In screen in printing, the
screen mesh and the pattern are 'grown' on a
mandrel simultaneously. |
| Gaping |
A fabric defect, which manifests
in crêpe goods, as a gaping or uneven closing of
threads caused by irregular shrinkage of yarns,
which in turn is a result of uneven twist
employed in the yarn. |
| Garancine |
The term used to describe, a
style of maroon to red-brown prints produced by
treating the madder root with sulphuric acid
|
| Garb |
A style of apparel |
| Garibaldi |
A woman's blouse copied from the
red shirt worn by the Italian patriot Garibaldi
|
| Garland |
Wreath, chaplet |
| Garment |
A shaped article of textile
fabric, or other flexible sheet material,
intended to cover portions of the human body.
Garments may be grouped as: active wear,
blouses, bottoms, bridal, dresses, dress shirts,
foundations, hosiery, outerwear, pyjamas, robes,
skirts, sleepwear, sport coats sport shirts,
suits, sweaters, swimwear, tailored clothing,
underwear, uniforms, workwear, tops, etc.
|
| Garment Blank |
See Knitted blank |
| Garment Defects |
Garment manufacturing involves
many varied operations and a very large number
of operators. Operations, with some exceptions,
are largely controlled by the operator and not
machine-controlled. Fabric types and garment
styles are being increasingly diversified in a
great way. Methods, trimmings and machinery are
being continually changed. All these facts may
contribute to garment defects of varied type,
size and intensity. See also Garment
manufacturing defects |
| Garment Defects, Classified
|
See Classified garment
defects |
| Garment Defects During
Manufacture |
There are chances of several
types of defect occurring in a garment, during
manufacture, at various stages of production.
See Pattern defects in garment; Spreading
defects in garment; Cutting defects in garment;
Sewing preparation defects in garment; Sewing
defects in garment; Seaming defects in garment;
Automatic machine and attachments defects in
garment; Housekeeping defects in garment;
Under-pressing defects in garment; Fusing
defects in garment; Final pressing defects in
garment; Folding, packing and warehousing
defects in garment |
| Garment-dyed |
A dyeing process that occurs
after the garment is assembled. |
| Garment-dyed Denim |
Garment-dyed denim is a natural
denim, which is not dyed prior to weaving, but
is dyed after being cut and sewn into garment
form. The telltale signs of a pair of jeans that
have been garment dyed are that the pocket
lining and labels are dyed as well as the jeans.
So, if you look inside your black jeans, and the
pockets are white, they are yarn-dyed. If the
pockets are black, they are garment-dyed. (Or
they could be both, which is called over
dying). |
| Garment-fitting Discomforts
|
Whether the garment is tight fit
overall, or tight fit at local areas,
etc |
| Garment-length Knitting
Machine |
A knitting machine, most often
the circular type, used for the production of
individual garment-panels in series, rather than
for the continuous production of
fabric |
| Garment Over-dyeing |
A process in which the garment
is dyed after it has been sewn. |
| Garment Sizing System |
In garment construction, a
method of designating garment sizes See Ankle;
Ankle girth; Armhole; Armpit; Armscye; Armscye
circumference; Back break-point; Back width;
Cross back width. Body dimensions; Body
measurements; Bust; Bust girth; Bust point to
bust point; Calf girth; Centre back waist
length; Centre front waist length; Cervicale to
bust point; Cervicale to wrist; Chest girth;
High-bust girth; Cross-back width; Cross-chest
width; Crotch; Crotch height; Crown; Elbow;
Elbow girth; Front Breakpoint; Full Bust Girth;
Head girth; Height; High-bust girth; High-hip
girth; Hip; Hip girth; Inside-leg length; Knee;
Knee girth; Mid-neck girth; Mid-thigh girth;
Outside-leg length; Scye depth; Shoulder joint;
Shoulder length; Shoulder slope; Sizing system;
Thigh Girth; Total crotch length; Total vertical
trunk length; Underarm Length; Upperarm girth;
Upperarm length; Waist; Waist girth; Wrist;
Wrist girth |
| Garment Technologist |
This includes pattern
construction, a broad knowledge of textiles and
quality issues. The use of CAM and relative
packages is required as a garment technologist.
|
| Garment Twist |
A rotation, usually lateral,
between different panels of a garment resulting
from the release of latent stresses during
laundering of the woven or knitted fabric
forming the garment. |
| Garment-washed |
A wash process where softeners
are added to a finished garment to help the
cotton fibres relax or bloom. The result is a
fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced
shrinkage, and a softer hand. |
| Garnet |
A variable colour averaging a
dark red. |
| Garneting |
A mechanical process whereby
short cotton fibres and/or other fibres are
combed into a specific orientation and formed
into a thin web, which are then layered to
create a batting that is generally used as an
upholstery material. |
| Garnetting |
The term used to describe,
breaking up or shredding of cotton and wool
yarns and fabric (soft and hard wastes) to a
fluffy, fibrous condition for reuse. |
| Garnett Machine |
A type of carding machine
equipped with rollers and cylinders covered with
saw-like metallic teeth, used for garneting
|
| Garrison Cap |
A visor-less folding cap worn as
part of a military uniform [Compare service
cap]. |
| Garter |
A band worn to hold up a
stocking or sock; a band worn to hold up a
shirtsleeve |
| Garter Band |
See After-welt |
| Garters |
The ribbon tied around the leg
to hold up the stockings. |
| Garter-stitch |
The term used to describe,
simple stitch done by hand or machine, used in
plain weft knitting. |
| Garter Webbing |
An elastic narrow fabric,
sometimes multicoloured, characterised by
selvedges that form a frill on relaxation. It
may also be a medium-strength elastic narrow
fabric for supporting socks or stockings
|
| Gas |
See Gassing |
| Gas |
See Singe. |
| Gas Fading |
See Atmospheric fading
|
| Gas Fading Inhibitors |
Chemicals applied on dyed
acetate fabrics to inhibit gas fading. |
| Gas Fume Fading |
An irreversible change in hue
which occurs when textiles, particularly
cellulose ethanoate (acetate) and triethanoate
(triacetate) dyed with certain blue
anthraquinone disperse dyes are exposed to
oxides of nitrogen, which arise from, for
example, gas or storage heaters. |
| Gassed Yarn |
A yarn that has been passed
through a flame or over a heated element in
order to remove surface fibres. |
| Gassing |
A finishing process that reduces
fuzz and produces a sheen by rapidly passing
cotton thread over an open flame. |
| Gathering |
A method of shortening of fabric
length by drawing together and holding a
succession of small folds of material by
stitching. Machine gathering or gauging is
achieved by the use of a special presser foot or
attachment. |
| Gating (knitting) |
The relative alignment of two
sets of knitting elements, e.g. needles, on
knitting machines. Two forms of needle gating
(rib and interlock) are common and may be
interchangeable on the same machine. Types of
gating are: (a) Interlock gating: interlock
gaiting (knitting) - the opposed alignment of
one set of needles with the other on a knitting
machine. (b) Purl gating: Purl gaiting
(knitting), the opposed alignment of tricks of
two needle beds lying in the same plane, on a
machine equipped with double-headed needles. (c)
Rib gating: rib gaiting (knitting), the
alternate alignment of one set of needles with
the other on a machine equipped with two sets of
needles arranged to knit rib fabrics. Also
termed gaiting. |
| Gating |
The relative alignment two sets
of knitting elements, e.g. needles on knitting
machines. Two forms of needle gating (rib and
interlock), are common and may be
interchangeable on the same machine. |
| Gattar |
Satin weave: Characteristics: It
is made with a cotton filling and a silk warp.
It is only found in solid colours and is known
for it's elegant lustre and excellent
drapability. Uses: Elegant evening wraps.
|
| Gaucho |
Wide-legged pants or divided
skirt reaching mid-calf and worn with
boots. |
| Gaufré |
An effect comprising designs in
relief on the surface of fabric, produced by
pressing in hot calendars; e.g. honeycomb-like,
waffle-like, crimp-like, etc.. |
| Gauge |
1. The term used to describe a
standard measure of distance or dimension. 2. An
instrument for measuring the thickness of woven
fabric. 3. In lace machines, a term used to
describe, the comb spacing, usually expressed as
'x point'. 4. In lace machines, a conventional
term used to describe, the number of needles per
inch on warp lace machines. 5. In a sewing
machine, the distance between needles. 6. See
Cut 7. See Pitch 8. See Point |
| Gauge, Stitch |
See Stitch gauge |
| Gauging |
See under Gathering |
| Gauge Length |
In testing, the original length
of that portion of the specimen over which
strain or change of length is determined.
|
| Gauge Marks |
In testing, the marks of known
separation applied to a specimen |
| Gauntlet |
A glove worn with medieval
armour to protect the hand; any of various
protective gloves used especially in industry; a
dress glove extending above the wrist.
|
| Gauntlet Cuff |
See under Cuff |
| Gauntlets |
Dress gloves extending above the
wrist. |
| Guard's Checks |
A weave design, in which by
slight changes in the relationship of the weave
and the colour order, alternate vertical and
horizontal line effects may be produced in
alternate panels. When a 2 and 2 colour order is
used in both the warp and the weft of a 2/2
twill, a distinctive vertical line effect is
produced. |
| Gauze |
1. A sheer, open texture, plain
weave fabric, made from cotton, silk, viscose,
acetate, etc. Produced as soft and unfinished in
appearance or as sized to add stiffness.
Originally made in Gaza, Palestine; hence the
name. Often used as a mounting fabric. Used for
dresses, trimmings and curtains. Some open lacy
types are made for curtains and drapes. 2. A
thin, lightweight, loosely woven (in plain or
simple leno weave) cotton fabric, similar to
cheesecloth. Used primarily for surgical
dressings. |
| Gauze Weaving |
A term commonly used as a
synonym for leno weaving; strictly, a method of
producing the simpler types of lightweight
fabric by leno weaving. A method of producing
the simpler types of lightweight fabric by leno
weave. The term is also used sometimes as a
synonym for leno weave. |
| Gauze Cloth/Cheese Cloth |
A loosely woven, thin, sheer,
plain weave fabric usually cotton. |
| Gauz Sylphide plants |
A fabric made by alternating
strips of gauze and satin brocade ribbon, used
mainly for women's clothing. |
| Gazar |
A silk organza. |
| GDD |
See Galvano, Directly Designed
|
| Gear-crimped Yarn |
A form of textured yarn in which
the heated yarn is passed between a pair of gear
wheels or through some similar device. A
continuous filament yarn made from or containing
thermoplastic fibres is heated and is passed
between a pair of gear wheels or through some
similar device. |
| Gear Crimping |
A form of texturing, in which
the heated yarn is passed between a pair of gear
wheels or through some similar device.
|
| Gel |
Colloidal suspension of a solid
dispersed in a liquid; a semirigid solid.
|
| Gel Blocking |
A phenomenon that occurs when
the swelling of a super absorbent polymer blocks
the passage of fluid into the inside of a
fabric, thereby reducing the absorption
capacity. |
| Gelatin Fibre |
A remarkably shiny, man-made
fibre, which is spun from a solution of gelatin
and then treated with formaldehyde, making it
insoluble in water. The fibre, however, never
attained commercial significance. |
| Gelatinisation |
The term used to describe, the
process of conversion of granular size to a
viscous adhesive liquid. |
| Gel Dyeing |
A continuous tow dyeing method
in which soluble dyes are applied to wet-spun
fibres (e.g., acrylic or modacrylic fibres) in
the gel state (i.e., after extrusion and
coagulation, but before drawing and
drying). |
| Genappe Yarn |
A gassed worsted yarn. (Genappe
in Belgium.) |
| Genappe Yarn |
A worsted yarn, subjected to
singeing. |
| Generic Class |
A grouping having similar
chemical compositions or specific chemical
characteristics. |
| Generic Name |
A term to distinguish different
classes of textile fibres. Generic names are
normally employed as adjectives, descriptive of
the nature of the fibre components of the
associated objects, like yarn, top, sliver,
fabric, garment, etc. The main basis for
classification is the distinguishing attributes
of fibres, like fibre source, chemical nature,
etc. |
| Generic Name |
When used here a name to
distinguish different classes of textile fibre.
For natural fibres, distinguishing attribute is
the fibre source; for man-made fibres (see
Fibre, man-made) chemical difference, which
often results in distinctive property
differences, is the main basis for
classification: Other attributes are included
where necessary. Generic names are normally used
as adjectives; are descriptive of the nature of
the fibre or filament components of the
associated object (yarn, top, sliver, fabric,
garment, etc). The attributes used for
specification of the generic names of man-made
fibres are however not necessarily identical
with the attributes used for naming chemical
molecules. The international organization for
standardization has published, in ISO 2076, a
list of the generic names and definitions of the
different categories of man-made fibres at
present manufactured on industrial scale for
textile and other purposes. These definitions
and categories are used throughout this
publication where possible. Other lists of fibre
names have been produced in connection with
textile labelling legislation (e.g., in the EC
textile labelling directive and the US Federal
Trade Commission's textile fibre products
identification act). |
| Geneva Bands |
Two strips of white cloth
suspended from the front of a clerical collar
and sometimes used by Protestant clergymen [Also
called Geneva tabs] |
| Geneva Gown |
A loose large-sleeved black
academic gown widely used as a vestment by
members of the Protestant clergy |
| Genoa Twill |
The term used to describe a
three-harness twill fabric. |
| Genoa Velvet |
An elaborate velvet fabric with
multi-coloured piles on a satin ground; the
piles are sometimes left uncut. |
| Gentle Wash Cycle |
A wash cycle in which agitation
is slow and time is reduced. |
| Geo Grid |
A relatively stiff, mat-like geo
textile made in a rib structure with open
spaces. It is a network of integrally connected
tensile elements used to reinforce and stabilise
civil engineering structures. |
| Geo Membrane |
A barrier of very low
permeability, which may or may not incorporate
textile reinforcement, used to control flow of
fluids. An impermeable sheet of polymer, used in
contact with soil or rock as part of a civil
engineering operation. Geo membranes are used in
applications like lining of reservoirs and waste
dumps. |
| Geo Textiles |
A group of permeable textile
fabrics, made from manufactured fibres in a
variety of constructions, used for filtration,
drainage, separation, reinforcement and
stabilisation purposes as an integral part of
civil engineering structures on earth, rock or
other constructional materials. Geo textiles
include textiles for ground stabilisation,
erosion control, drainage, asphalt and moisture
proofing, and special 'exotic' high-performance
uses. Both woven and non-woven fabrics are used
in geo textile applications; non-wovens exceed
woven in use. Fabrics are made of such fibres as
polypropylene, olefin, polyester, nylon, and
acrylic; polypropylene is the most used fibre.
Whatever the extreme of environmental conditions
encountered, the geo textiles are expected to
withstand those conditions. Various physical
properties are engineered to suit the particular
use. Some situations require very thick layers
that are highly rigid, strong, and resistant to
creep; others require a thin layer with plenty
of pores to provide for the passage of fluids
through the surface. In general, geo textiles
should be: ? Stable to the conditions into which
they will be placed, i.e. they must resist
damage from microorganisms and insects ? Stable
to the range of temperatures that will be
encountered both in application and in use ?
Stable to chemicals that may be encountered -
resistant to possible damage from light, and ?
Strong and have special stress-strain properties
that are required for the specific end use.
|
| Geometric |
The term used to describe, the
designs dominated by relatively simple, clearly
defined geometric shapes. Refers to designs
dominated by relatively simple, clearly defined
geometric shapes. |
| Georgette |
A fine, translucent,
lightweight, raspy and open-texture crêpe
fabric, usually in plain weave, made with high
twist same count yarns which alternate between
'S' and 'Z' twist in every thread or every
second both warp and weft. This special crêpe
weave construction produces a rather springy
fabric, with strong crêpe effect and crisp
handle. It is a difficult fabric to make up, but
it drapes well. Made from a variety of fibres
including silk, wool, rayon, polyester, and
nylon in plain or printed varieties. The fabric
is de-sized weaving and is piece-dyed. Does not
crease readily and polyester georgette will
hardly crease at all. Used along with lining for
blouses, dresses, eveningwear and for
over-dresses with opaque fabric beneath.
Sometimes it is bonded to acetate locknit to
improve the stability, which makes the fabric
easier to use. |
| Georgette Crepe |
Lightweight, heavy, sheer
fabric. Has quite a bit of stiffness and body.
Gives excellent wear. Has a dull, crinkled
surface. Achieved by alternating S and Z yarns
in a high twist in both warp and filling
directions. Georgette has a harder, duller, more
crinkled feel and appearance than crepe de
chine. Uses: After 5 wear and dressy afternoon
and weddings, lingerie, scarves, etc. Same uses
as crepe de chine. |
| Geranium |
A vivid or strong red.
|
| Germicidal Agent |
See Bacteriostat |
| Germ-resistant |
Fabrics treated with compounds
to protect the wearer against fungi and germs.
|
| Geta |
A Japanese wooden clog for
outdoor wear |
| Ghagho |
A woman's dress, closely related
to the abbo. The skirt part of the abagho was
often more flared than that of an abbo, the
ample gathers at either side of the waist
lending it peculiar gracefulness when the wearer
moved. |
| Ghaghra |
A skirt, usually with a great
deal of flares. While the simple types have only
one vertical seam, which turns the fabric or
'ghaghra-pata' into a tube, fastened with a
drawstring passing through a long, narrow slot
at the waist. Flared ghaghras are made up of,
several triangular gored pieces stitched
together. |
| Gherdar |
Flared with an ample skirt, as
in a gherdarjama. |
| Ghundi |
Loop; generally used to hold the
little button-like boss called the
tukma. |
| Ghutanna |
A short paoan (q. v.), worn by
men, tight and ending just below the knees. Much
favoured in 19th century Sikh Punjab. |
| Gig |
A finishing machine containing
teasels and used for raising a nap on a fabric.
|
| Gigging |
A fabric finishing operation in
which surface fibres are raised to produce a nap
or cover on the cloth. It is performed on cloth
with teasels, which are the dried flower heads
of a thistle plant, or with their metallic
substitute. The cloth is brought in contact with
teasels, covering the surface of a rotating
cylinder. |
| Gilding |
See Oxidised oil staining
|
| Gilet |
A waist-length or hip-length
garment, usually sleeveless, with fastening up
the front; sometimes made from a quilted fabric,
and designed to be worn over a blouse or shirt.
|
| Gill Box |
A drafting machine used in
worsted processing, in which the motion of the
fibres partly controlled by pins fixed on moving
bars or pinned fallers. |
| Gillie |
A shoe with a low top and
decorative lacing |
| Gilling |
A system of drafting in which
the direction of the fibres relative to one
another in a sliver is controlled by pins. A pin
drafting system, in which the direction of the
fibres relative to one another in a sliver is
controlled by pins. |
| Gimp |
1. A stiff fancy cord, having a
core helically wrapped by one or more threads.
The compound thread comprises a twisted core
with an effect yarn wrapped around it so as to
produce wavy projections on its surface.
Generally, gimp yarns display fairly regular
semi-circular projections and loop yarns have
well-formed circular loops. 2. A trimming for
upholstery usually made wholly or partly from
gimp cord. 3. A special thread used to support
and rises the buttonhole stitching. Also used
for embroidery. |
| Gin |
A machine used for separating
the cotton fibre from the seed. The fibres are
drawn through openings, which are too small for
seed to pass through. |
| Gin Cut Cotton |
Cotton that has been damaged
during the ginning operation, to the extent that
its value is reduced. |
| Ginger |
A strong brown. |
| Gingham |
Cotton, man-made, and
synthetics. Word derived from Italy "Ging-gang"
meaning, "striped". Medium or fine yarns of
varying quality are used to obtain the checks,
plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is
yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling
are usually balanced and if checks of two
colours, usually same sequence in both the warp
and the filling. It is strong, substantial, and
serviceable. It launders well but low textured,
cheap fabric may shrink considerably unless
pre-shrunk. Has a soft, dull luster surface.
Wrinkles unless wrinkle-resistant. Tissue or
zephyr ginghams are sheer being woven with finer
yarns and a higher thread count. A Plain-weave,
light-weight cotton fabric, approximately square
in construction, in which dyed yarns, or white
and dyed yarns, form small checks or, less
usually, narrow stripes. Note: If fibres other
than cotton are used the term should be suitably
qualified (e.g. viscose rayon gingham).
|
| Ginned Lint |
Cotton fibres that have been
separated from their seeds by the ginning
operation, but not subjected to any further
processing after ginning. |
| Ginning |
A process that removes cotton
fibres (lint) from the seed. An industrial
mechanical process by which cotton fibres are
separated from their seeds, quickly and
efficiently to make the fibres available for
textile use. |
| Girdle |
An article of dress encircling
the body usually at the waist; a woman's
close-fitting undergarment often boned and
usually elasticised that extends from the waist
to below the hips. |
| Girdle Form |
Usually a lightweight,
three-dimensional form, flesh coloured waist to
toes. It may be used toes up and waist as the
base, or upright with the toe set into a foot
bracket. It may also be used to show stretch
tights and slacks. |
| Girth |
A band or strap that encircles
the body of an animal to fasten something, as a
saddle, on its back |
| Give-way |
The term used to describe a weak
link inserted in a mechanism for safety reasons.
|
| Givrene |
A silk, acetate or polyester
fabric, very similar in appearance to a
grosgrain. Made from a fairly loosely folded
cotton weft and twist variations give a shimmer
effect to the fabric because the ribs are not
uniformly round and even. |
| Glacé Binding |
A type of binding; woven narrow
fabric made from stiff, polished cotton warp and
weft yarns, in a 3/1 twill weave. Used mainly in
men's tailoring trade. |
| Glacé Effect |
See Changeable effect |
| Glacé Leather |
A soft and glossy goatskin, used
mainly for shoes. |
| Glad Rags |
Dressy clothes |
| Glass (fibre) |
A term used to describe fibres
made of mixed silicates. |
| Glass Base Plate |
The heavy piece of glass,
equipped with a metal plate or flange and
extending rod, which is used to support a
mannequin. The base plate may be almost any
shape and is usually about 18 ins. wide.
|
| Glass Cloth |
made without any surface fuzz
and woven in stripes, checks, or plains, which
are printed afterwards. Used to make tea towels
for drying and polishing glassware and China.
Cotton types are cheaper, but are not quite so
effective for drying up as it becomes damp
sooner, and does not wear as long as linen.
|
| Glass Eyes |
Large, artificial, but extremely
realistic eyes, which fit into the hollowed-out
eye sockets of a mannequin. They are usually
made so that they can be positioned to look to
the right, left, straight ahead, up or down and
appear to make contact with other mannequins in
a grouping. |
| Glass Fibre |
A manufactured fibre in which
the fibre-forming substance is glass. Extremely
fine filaments are spun from ordinary glass in
its molten state. The extreme fineness of the
filament gives the material necessary
flexibility for making it into yarns and
fabrics. Glass fibre is very strong but it has
practically no stretch. Fabrics made from glass
fibres lack resistance to abrasion and flexing;
the filaments break and the fabric become
fibrous as the broken filament-ends stick out;
they are unsuitable for conventional clothing.
However, they are very popular as curtain
fabrics, because of its complete
non-flammability, chemical resistance, ease of
washing, complete lack of absorbency, and very
negligible deterioration with age. Glass melts
only at extremely high temperatures, will not
conduct electricity and impervious to insects,
mildew, and sunlight. Mainly there are two types
of textile glass fibre in large-scale commercial
production; E-glass and C-glass. |
| Glass Mat Thermoplastic |
A glass strand mat consolidated
with a sheet of polypropylene. This
thermoplastic material offers better mechanical
properties than injection-moulded reinforced
thermoplastics, thanks to the higher residual
length of the glass strands. |
| Glass Mineral Wool |
See Glass wool |
| Glass-Rubber Transition
Temperature |
The temperature zone over which
there is a reversible physical change from a
viscous or rubbery state to a brittle glassy
state. |
| Glass Towelling |
A plain weave, cotton or linen
fabric with high twist yarns; usually in red or
blue stripes, blocks, or checks. Other colour
combinations can also be used. It has no
fuzziness or protruding fibres and launders
well. |
| Glass Wool |
A variety of incombustible glass
fibre, principally used in heat and cold
insulations and acoustical applications.
|
| Glauber's Salt |
The term used in textile
parlance for sodium sulphide, used widely as a
dyeing assistant. Invented by Glauber, a German
dye chemist, hence the name. Very useful in
cellulosic dyeing to hasten exhaustion of the
dye bath and thereby improve depth of shade.
With wool the effect is exactly opposite, and
exhaustion is retarded for improving levelness
of the dyeing. Therefore, unlike many chemicals
in dyeing, it is valuable on both vegetable and
animal fibres. |
| Glaucous |
Of a pale yellow-green colour;
of a light bluish grey or bluish white colour.
|
| Glaze |
The term used to describe a
fabric finish, which imparts smoothness, shine,
lustre, polish, plane surface, etc., on a
fabric. See Glazing |
| Glazing |
The process of imparting a
smooth, glossy, lustrous and plane surface to a
fabric, by using heat, heavy pressure, or
friction. Usually the fabric is first treated
with resin, wax, starch or other substances then
friction calendered. The depth and the life of
the finish depend on ingredients used and the
machine settings. A durable glaze finish
stabilises the weave and will withstand several
washings. Normally fabrics like, chintz and
tarlatan, etc., are subjected to glazing;
sometimes for special purposes, threads also
glazed. |
| Glazed |
Cotton fabrics such as chintz or
tarlatan treated with starch, glue or paraffin.
These are not as durable in washing as those
treated with synthetic resins. A finish
resulting in a smooth, glossy surface on the
fabric. Usually the fabric is first treated with
resin, wax, starch or other substances then
calendered. |
| Glencarry |
1. An English tweed fabric made
from woollen yarns of the hit or miss type and
contains some so called waste stock and low
quality fibres.
2. The term is also used to
describe a cape-overcoat and sometimes a Scotch
cap. |
| Glen Checks |
A weave design comprised of
small squares and rectangles similar to
'shepherd's check'. Usually seen in men'swear
and originated in Scotland. It is characterized
by a variety of small, even check designs.
|
| Glengarry |
A woollen cap of Scottish origin
|
| Glen Plaid |
A fabric woven in a twill
pattern of broken checks. [Also called glen
check] |
| Glen Plaid |
The name comes from the Glen
Urquhart Valley in Inverness-shire, Scotland and
is a woven design that pairs small checks with
larger ones of like colours. |
| Glenshee |
A plain weave fabric made from
linen or mercerised cotton, in a wide variety of
weights and used for all types of embroidery.
|
| Glen Urquhart |
A traditional Scottish district
check made of elements of hounds tooth and
guard's checks. Over-plaid, because the blocks
of check weave are arranged at right angles, and
then there is a larger outline check effect over
this, often in a contrasting colour. Made from
wool or worsted in various weights, from light
suiting to overcoating. An ornate plaid, is
popular for golfing clothes, cloaks, men's
sporting hats and overcoats. |
| Glenshee Crash |
A rough, uneven plain weave
fabric made from equal quantities of cotton and
linen fibre. Used mainly for curtains and loose
covers and as a base for embroidery. |
| Gliding |
See under Oxidised oil staining
|
| Glissade |
A closely woven, polished
finish, cotton fabric in satin weave. Made in
plain colours, its use is limited as a lining
fabric. |
| Glitter |
Specialty ink providing
brilliant, sparkling looks. |
| Gloria |
A firm, lightweight, very
closely woven fabric made in plain, twill or
satin weave from cotton, silk or nylon. As it is
water repellent, when stretched taut, it is
mainly used as umbrella cloth. |
| Gloria Suede |
A firm, heavy suede fabric made
for jackets and coats. |
| Gloss |
See Specular gloss |
| Glove |
A covering for the hand, often
extending part way up the arm. A covering for
the hand having separate sections for each of
the fingers and the thumb and often extending
part way up the arm; gauntlet |
| Glove Hand |
An accessory to a mannequin,
replacing the regular hand that joins the arm at
the wrist or a separate entity, which is
designed to wear gloves. The finger arrangement
facilitates the putting on and taking off of
gloves and yet presents them in a graceful
manner. |
| Glove Silk |
A fine, warp-knit silk fabric
made in basic colours and used mainly for glove
lining, and sometimes for lingerie. Silk, rayon,
synthetics. Knit - two bar double-knit tricot.
Made on a warp knitted frame. Very finely knit
but very strong. Now called nylon Simplex.
Similar to chamoisette (cotton). |
| Glow |
A visible flameless combustion
of the solid phase of a material. |
| Glowing Combustion |
The combustion of a material in
the solid phase without flame, but with emission
of light from the combustion zone. |
| Glued Seam |
A seam formed by an adhesive.
See also Sewn seam; Stapled seam; Thermally
bonded seam |
| Glue Gun |
An electrical tool where a
plastic resin (glue) is melted and used as an
adhesive while the plastic resin is still hot.
The favourite adhesive of Visual Merchandisers.
|
| GMM |
General Merchandising Manager
|
| GMT |
See Glass mat
thermoplastic |
| Godet |
1. A driven roller on a textile
machine around which a yarn is passed in order
to regulate its speed during the extrusion and
further processing of certain man-made fibres.
The roller may be heated in order to heat the
yarn, which passes around it.
2. A triangular
insert of material used in dressmaking and glove
making. |
| Goffer |
A process by which fabrics are
given a fluted, crimped, tucked, or
raised-relief appearance by means of heat and
pressure. Used on yarn or fabric. |
| Gold |
A fibre of mineral origin, which
is often used in very expensive fabrics; perhaps
the costliest textile fibre.A variable colour
averaging a deep yellow. |
| Golden |
Being or having the colour gold
or the colour of gold; blond. |
| Gold Thread |
A core yarn formed by twisting
or spiralling thin filaments of gold on a
central yarn of silk, cotton, man-made fibres,
etc. 'Pure gold' thread consists of a fine
silver wire covered with a gold film and 'Lyons
gold thread' is copper wire covered with a gold
film. Originally gold thread was a gold wire.
Used mainly for heavy embroidery on expensive
fabrics and dresses and sometimes. |
| Gold Tissue |
A very soft and luxurious,
transparent metal cloth consisting of metal warp
in gold colour and silk or synthetic weft. Used
mainly for evening dresses, saris,
etc. |
| Good Colour Cotton |
A species of cotton possessing
an intermediate shade between white and creamy.
If too creamy, the term 'buttery colour' used,
and if too white, the term 'blue colour cotton'
applies. |
| Good Middling |
The term used to describe the
best grade of cotton available. |
| Goods Ratio |
See Liquor: Goods ratio
|
| Gore |
A wedge-shaped piece of cloth
inserted in to a garment to obtain width at a
specific place. |
| Gored Skirt |
A skirt with a panel inserted.
|
| Gore-Tex |
Trade name of a fabric,
protected on one or both sides with a micro
porous membrane of Teflon. The coated fabric is
waterproof and virtually impenetrable by wind,
yet permits the passage of air and water
molecules with the result that the fabric
breathes and is permeable to perspiration.
|
| Gorge |
The neck-run of the forepart, to
which the collar is joined. |
| Gorge Seam |
The term used to describe, the
seam joining the forepart to the collar.
|
| Gorget |
A piece of armour protecting the
throat; an ornamental collar; part of a wimple
covering throat and shoulders |
| Go-see |
A modelling term. A client will
often be interested in booking a model on the
basis of her photograph on the agency head sheet
but will want to meet and speak with her before
making a final decision. When the agency makes
an appointment for a model to go to such an
interview it is called a go-see. A model is not
paid for time spent on go-sees and top models
are rarely required to go on them. |
| Gossamer |
A very thin and soft, fine silk
gauze, mainly used for veils. |
| Gossypium |
The generic name of the cotton
plant. |
| Gota |
A narrow ribbon made of 'gold'
or 'silver' threads. |
| Go-through Machine |
A Leavers type of lace machine,
in which the catch bars impart motion to the
carriages. |
| Gouache |
A method of painting with
watercolours pigments mixed with a preparation
of gum to make them opaque. Water-soluble.
|
| Gout |
A fabric defect, which manifests
as, foreign matter woven into a fabric by
accident; usually lint or waste, caused by fly
and waste dropping into the loom during weaving,
or being caught in yarns during spinning.
|
| Gown |
A loose flowing outer garment
formerly worn by men; a distinctive robe worn by
a professional or academic person; a woman's
dress; dressing gown; nightgown, wedding-gown; a
coverall worn in an operating room |
| GPD |
Acronym for 'gm/denier'. A unit
of force divided by the weight per unit length
of a fibre, yarn, or rope. |
| GPU |
Garment Production Unit.
|
| Grab Test |
Name of the scale, employed for
measurement of the relative density of liquids
by hydrometry. The formula expresses the
relationship between relative density, and
degrees Baumé, for liquids more dense than
water.Gradation The gradual change of one colour
to another thru even steps between each shade.
|
| Grade |
1. In warp knitting, a term used
to indicate the defect index evaluation of
fabric determined by the number of defects per
unit, for example per pound, per linear yard, or
per square yard.
2. In wool and mohair, a
numerical designation used in classifying wool
and mohair in their raw, semi-processed, and
processed forms based on average fibre diameter
and variation of fibre diameter. |
| Grading |
In textile testing, the symbol
for any step of a multi-step standard reference
scale for a quality characteristic. The grade is
assigned to test specimens exhibiting a degree
of the quality comparable to that step of the
standard. Numerical grades assigned to different
specimens from a sample or by different
observers are commonly averaged. See also
Grading process terminology |
| Grading Process
Terminology |
For most subjectively graded
characteristics, five grades, usually with
intermediate decimal half grades are provided,
ranging from grade 5 (high) to grade 1 (low).
The grade lower than 1 is seldom of interest,
but it may be designated grade 0. Terms, which
can be used to express the relative
colourfastness or appearance of the grades as,
determined by the tests are as follows:
|
| Graduated Checks |
A pattern for checks, in which
the component stripes are graduated in size from
small to large. |
| Graft Copolymer |
A copolymer formed when
sequences of one repeating unit are built as
side branches on to a backbone polymer derived
from another repeating unit. |
| Graft Polymerisation |
The production of a branched
macromolecule, with a high molecular weight
backbone of one polymeric species, to which a
second polymer is attached or grafted at
intervals. |
| Grain |
Another word used for the length
wise (weft yarn) or cross-wise (warp yarn)
threads of the fabric.The simplest definition is
that it is a term used to describe the
lengthwise or widthwise threads of a fabric. The
grain of a fabric is the relationship of its
structural elements to vertical and horizontal
lines. In a fabric, in ideal conditions the warp
direction represents the vertical line and weft
direction represents the horizontal line. Warp
and weft interlace at 90°, so that in a
correctly made and finished fabric the grain and
structure are square with each other. .
|
| Grain Leather |
The term used to describe all
leather skins that have a finish applied on the
right side. Most leather skins available for
sewing are referred to as grain leathers.
|
| Grain of Wheat Effect |
See under Coronation gimp
|
| Grainy Weave |
A class of irregular, broken
weaves, e.g. granite, oatmeal, etc. The effect
is used at times in fabrics of man-made fibres
where warp and weft have different dyeing
characteristics. |
| Granada |
A woven fine worsted fabric with
a face finish on the right side. The weave has a
broken appearance and normally made in black.
Used mainly for women's coats, men's lightweight
overcoats. Weave: Twill. Characteristics: its
name is derived from the Latin word 'granum',
which refers to the grainy quality of the
textile. This granular quality is achieved by a
broken twill weave. It is made of a cotton warp
and alpaca or mohair filling. This fibre is
exceptionally fine. |
| Grenadine |
A moderate reddish orange. An
open-weave fabric of various fibres.
Characteristics: This fine fibre originated in
Italy. It can be made in various fibres such as
cotton, wool, silk or manufactured fibres. It is
well know for its stiffness.Uses: Women's
clothing. |
| Grandrelle Fabric |
A waterproof fabric made by
sealing together two cotton fabrics of the same
but different designs with a rubber solution.
|
| Grandrelle Yarn |
A two-ply yarn composed of
single yarns of different colours or contrasting
lustres. |
| Granite Weave |
A weave having a satin base or
other regular plan with adjoining ends lifted in
regular order to give small broken effects. This
is largely used as ground weaves for jacquard
designs. |
| Granny Dress |
A long, loose-fitting dress
usually with high neck and long
sleeves |
| Granulation |
The process of forming new
tissues. |
| Grassing or Crofting |
A traditional method of
bleaching of cotton or linen after washing, by
spreading it on green field or grass lawn and
exposing it to the action of the elements of
light and air; a much slower process than
chemical bleaching. |
| Grass Bleaching |
A process for bleaching linen
cloth after it has been washed by exposing it,
while spread our on a grass lawn or field known
as a green, to the action of the elements.
|
| Grass Cloth |
A lustrous plain textile of
usually loosely woven fibres. |
| Grass Cloth |
A broad term used to describe, a
group of lustrous, plain weave fabrics made of
ramie, flax, hemp, nettle fibre, etc. These are
generally loosely woven handloom fabrics. Used
for sportswear, blouses, luncheon sets,
tablecloths, etc. |
| Grassy |
Resembling grass especially in
colour. |
| Gravure Printing |
See Roller printing,
Intaglio |
| Grease Dyeing |
A method of dyeing serges and
cotton warp woollen fabrics without scouring
them first. |
| Grease Wool |
The term used to describe, the
wool, taken from the living sheep and which has
not been commercially scoured; wool still
containing the natural grease. |
| Greasy Wool |
Sheep's wool still containing
the natural grease |
| Greasy Piece |
A piece of woollen fabric as it
comes from the loom. A term used to describe a
piece of woollen fabric as it comes from the
loom. |
| Greasy Wool |
Textile product used on a bed,
over the sheets for warmth and/or decoration.
|
| Greave |
Armour for the leg below the
knee |
| Grecian Alhambra |
A figured quilting fabric, in
which largely Grecian weaves are used.
|
| Grecian Weave |
A group of weaves based on the
counter-change principle and having floats of
warp and weft that produce either a rough
surface or a cellular effect on both sides of
the fabric. Modifications of the basic Grecian
weave are also made, in some of which the warp
and weft floats appear on the face side of the
fabric only. |
| Green |
Somewhat less yellow than
growing fresh grass. . |
| Green Cotton |
The term used to describe, the
immature cotton fibres, which is unusually damp,
because it has been picked before the boll is
ripe. |
| Green Flax |
The term used to describe, the
scutched flax produced from deseeded straw
without any intermediate treatment such as
retting.Scutched flax produced from deseeded
straw without any intermediate treatment such as
retting. |
| Greenhouse Effect |
Trapping of heat at the surface
of the earth by carbon dioxide and water vapour
in the atmosphere. |
| Green Linen |
A linen fabric woven from
unbleached, or 'green' yarn. |
| Green Tack |
The term used to describe, the
bonding of fibres, in which the preliminary bond
is created in the first stage in curing by a wet
adhesive process. In this condition, the bond is
not fully cured and is still 'green', or not
ripe. |
| Greige |
Fabric that has not been
bleached, dyed or finished after production. If
woven sometimes called loomstate. |
| Greige Goods |
The term used to describe,
textile fabrics, as they leave the loom or
knitting-machine; fabrics that have received no
bleaching, dyeing or finishing treatment.
|
| Greige Thread |
An undyed or unfinished thread,
usually a sewing thread, in a state after the
final plying or equivalent step in processing
sequence, such as extruding, or braiding.
|
| Greige Yield |
The term used in weaving
parlance to describe the number of finished
square yards per pound /square metres per
kilogram of greige fabric. |
| Grenadine |
1. A loosely woven, springy,
net-type fabric made in cotton, polyester, nylon
or mixtures, including acrylic fibre.
Occasionally produced also as a filmy dress or
blouse fabric.
2. Term applies also to a
yarn composed of more than one strand, with the
twist in the plied yarn in the opposite
direction from the twist in the individual
components. Fibre may be silk, cotton or
synthetic.
3. The word Grenadine was once
used to describe a hardwearing close silk fabric
with a dull surface created by the highly
twisted yarns |
| Grenfell Cloth |
A closely woven reversible
twill, mainly used for raincoats, because the
close twill weave ensures it to be
water-repellent. The fibres used may be worsted
or polyester or blends; similar to gabardine in
appearance. |
| Grey Felt |
A blend of white fibres with
naturally coloured or dyed fibres, or both, that
has an overall grey appearance. |
| Grey Goods |
Woven or knitted fabrics as they
leave the loom or knitting machine, i.e., before
any bleaching, dyeing or finishing treatment has
been given to them. Some of these fabrics,
however, may contain dyed or finished yams.
Note: in some countries, particularly in the
North American continent, the term greige is
used. For woven goods, the term loomstate is
frequently used as an alternative. In the linen
and lace trades, the term brown goods is
used. |
| Greying |
The term used describe, the
dingy appearance of a fabric that occurs in dry
cleaning. This results from the uniform
depositing of soluble or insoluble soils on the
surface of all the fibres of the fabric. Poor
solvent colour, i.e. a dirty solvent can cause
greying . |
| Grey Scale |
A series of pairs of neutrally
coloured chips, showing increasing contrast
within pairs, used visually to assess contrasts
between other pairs of patterns: for example the
ISO (international organization for
standardization) grey scales comprise two series
of chips against which the magnitude of the
change in colour of a specimen submitted to a
fastness test and of staining of adjacent
uncoloured material can be visually assessed and
rated on a 1-5 scale. |
| Grey Souring |
An essential step in the process
of bleaching of cotton, in which the cotton is
treated with a weak acid solution to neutralise
excessive alkali present in it. |
| Grex |
An obsolete, direct yarn
numbering system for expressing linear density,
equal to the mass in grams per 10,000 metre of
yarn, fibre, filament or other textile strand.
|
| Griffe |
In jacquard mechanism, the knife
assembly that operates to lift the hooks and
harness in the process of forming a shed.
|
| Grin |
In sewn seams, to stress a sewn
seam so that the individual stitches can be
seen. |
| Grinding |
Fabricated wear marks on denim;
often on the edge fabric of pocket openings, leg
openings, or the outer fabric of the fly on a
jean; creates a worn-in look that is caused by
the wearing through of the edge of fabric (at
the hem, for example); grinding is not to be
confused with a fray as grinding is somewhat
scattered randomly. |
| Grinding (rag) |
A local term for pulling.
|
| Grinning |
The gap that forms, when two
components stitched together are pulled apart
laterally. The gap will be larger when the
stitch is slacker, i.e. the run-in ratio of the
threads is larger. |
| Grinning-through |
A defect in a compound
structure, e.g. a double cloth, in which one
fabric can be seen through the other, as a
result of bad cover. The term can be applied to
compound woven and knitted structures including
pile fabrics. |
| Grinny Cloth |
See Hungry cloth |
| Gripper |
A carrier, for the weft pick,
equipped with a clip or grip at one end to
firmly grasp the weft pick. |
| Gripper Loom |
A loom, which uses one or more
gripper devices. The device grips one end of a
weft yarn and tows it through the warp shed.
|
| Gripper Tape |
A narrow fabric, woven or
knitted, having one or more raised stripes in
the warp direction, formed of a high-friction
material. If is used on the inside of waistbands
for skirts and trousers to keep a blouse or
shirt in place. |
| Gripper-type Snaps |
A type of snaps made in four
pieces, which are affixed to a garment by
pressure with a special tool, as they cannot be
sewn on. Some of them, come with decorative
caps, are attached to the to the right side of
both overlap and underlap. Used more often on
children's garments, jeans, denim jackets, and
casual clothing. See also Snap fasteners, Sew-on
snaps |
| Gripper Web |
See Gripper tape |
| Grist |
See Count of yarn |
| Grizzle |
Wide round collar covering the
shoulders. |
| Grizzled |
Sprinkled or streaked w/ grey.
|
| Grogram |
A coarse loosely woven fabric of
silk, silk and mohair, or silk and wool. Compare
grosgrain. |
| Grommet |
An eyelet of firm material to
strengthen or protect an opening; also used on
samples that are not supposed to be sold or
used. |
| Gros |
A term used to describe, thick
heavy fabrics; often applied to a variety of
cross-ribbed fabrics. |
| Gros de Londres |
A cross-ribbed fabric with
alternating heavy and fine ribs, or ribs of
different colours. Made in plain weave and
variations of plain weave. Usually a glossy
finish is applied and it is fairly stiff to
handle. The fibres used are viscose, acetate,
and triacetate, polyester or silk. Used for
millinery and also for evening dresses.
|
| Grosgrain |
A fine, plain weave, lustrous
and hardwearing fabric having pronounced rounded
ribs in the weft direction. The woven ribs are
produced with a very closely set of warp fine
ends and an open-set weft in a much thicker
yarn. It is a fairly stiff fabric, made usually
in plain colours; the cords are rather heavy and
round. Originally it was a heavy and expensive
silk fabric. Now made in a variety of fibres.
Cheaper types are made using filament viscose or
acetate for the warp and a thick cotton or
staple viscose weft. The weft is entirely hidden
by the close-set warp and lies straight. Used
for formal dresses, ceremonial gowns, evening
coats, facings, etc. Synthetic types are popular
for ribbons. |
| Grospoint |
A durable, uncut loop pile
fabric used mainly for upholstery. Also known as
Point de Venise and Venetian lace; very
expensive heavy lace from Venice, the most
fashionable material for cravats among
aristocrats and royalty in the 17th century. The
lace was usually held together with a ribbon or
cravat string, or sewn into a pre-formed bow and
fall because it was too heavy to be tied
accurately. |
| Ground |
The foundation surface or
background in a composition, applied before the
motifs. The term used to describe, the basic
part of a fabric surrounding the figures or
designs. In a pile fabric, it consists of the
warp and the weft yarns, which support the pile.
In a lace fabric it is the foundation net
|
| Groundnut Protein Fibre |
A fibre obtained from groundnut
plant. The fibre has a soft, wool-like handle,
except that they do not have the scaly surface
of wool fibres. Used as a diluent fibre, which
provide wool-like characteristics at low cost.
|
| Gripper |
A carrier, for the weft pick,
equipped with a clip or grip at one end to
firmly grasp the weft pick. |
| Gripper Loom |
A loom, which uses one or more
gripper devices. The device grips one end of a
weft yarn and tows it through the warp shed.
|
| Gripper-shuttle Loom |
See Gripper loom |
| Gripper Tape |
A narrow fabric, woven or
knitted, having one or more raised stripes in
the warp direction, formed of a high-friction
material. If is used on the inside of waistbands
for skirts and trousers to keep a blouse or
shirt in place. |
| Gripper-type Snaps |
A type of snaps made in four
pieces, which are affixed to a garment by
pressure with a special tool, as they cannot be
sewn on. Some of them, come with decorative
caps, are attached to the to the right side of
both overlap and underlap. Used more often on
children's garments, jeans, denim jackets, and
casual clothing. |
| Gripper Web |
See Gripper tape |
| Grist |
See Count of yarn |
| Grizzle |
A roan coat pattern or C, or a
brownish red. |
| Grizzled |
Sprinkled or streaked w/
grey. |
| Grogram |
A coarse loosely woven fabric of
silk, silk and mohair, or silk and wool. Compare
grosgrain. |
| Grommet |
An eyelet of firm material to
strengthen or protect an opening; also used on
samples that are not supposed to be sold or
used. |
| Gros |
A term used to describe, thick
heavy fabrics; often applied to a variety of
cross-ribbed fabrics. |
| Gros de Londres |
A cross-ribbed fabric with
alternating heavy and fine ribs, or ribs of
different colours. Made in plain weave and
variations of plain weave. Usually a glossy
finish is applied and it is fairly stiff to
handle. The fibres used are viscose, acetate,
and triacetate, polyester or silk. Used for
millinery and also for evening dresses.
|
| Grosgrain |
A fine, plain weave, lustrous
and hardwearing fabric having pronounced rounded
ribs in the weft direction. The woven ribs are
produced with a very closely set of warp fine
ends and an open-set weft in a much thicker
yarn. It is a fairly stiff fabric, made usually
in plain colours; the cords are rather heavy and
round. Originally it was a heavy and expensive
silk fabric. Now made in a variety of fibres.
Cheaper types are made using filament viscose or
acetate for the warp and a thick cotton or
staple viscose weft. The weft is entirely hidden
by the close-set warp and lies straight. Used
for formal dresses, ceremonial gowns, evening
coats, facings, etc. Synthetic types are popular
for ribbons. |
| Grospoint |
A durable, uncut loop pile
fabric used mainly for upholstery. Also known as
Point de Venise and Venetian lace; very
expensive heavy lace from Venice, the most
fashionable material for cravats among
aristocrats and royalty in the 17th century. The
lace was usually held together with a ribbon or
cravat string, or sewn into a pre-formed bow and
fall because it was too heavy to be tied
accurately. |
| Ground |
The foundation surface or
background in a composition, applied before the
motifs. The term used to describe, the basic
part of a fabric surrounding the figures or
designs. In a pile fabric, it consists of the
warp and the weft yarns, which support the pile.
In a lace fabric it is the foundation net
|
| Groundnut Protein Fibre |
A fibre obtained from groundnut
plant. The fibre has a soft, wool-like handle,
except that they do not have the scaly surface
of wool fibres. Used as a diluent fibre, which
provide wool-like characteristics at low cost.
|
| Ground Thread |
A single or ply core yarn, which
serves as the central core, around which novelty
or fancy yarns are twisted. |
| Ground Warp |
The term used to describe, the
warp ends, which form the body of the fabric, in
pile fabrics, by interlacing with the weft
picks.
|
| Group Float |
A weaving defect, which
manifests as the failure of several warps or
wefts to interlace, resulting in these yarns
unseemly floating over the fabric surface.
|
| Grouping |
Two or more mannequins, which
are designed, arranged or positioned to go
together and create a situation or a semblance
of belonging in the same place at the same time.
Mannequins, which are proportioned and posed to
be used together. |
| Grown-on |
The formation of a facing by
folding back the fabric edge.
|
| Grown-on Waistband |
See under Waistband |
| Growth |
The dimensional change,
resulting in an increase in the length or width
of a specimen. |
| GRP |
Acronym for 'Glass Reinforced
Plastic'. |
| GSP |
Acronym for 'Generalised System
of Preferences'. |
| G - String |
A strip of cloth passed between
the legs and supported by a waist cord
|
| G - Suit |
A suit designed to counteract
the physiological effects of acceleration on an
aviator or astronaut |
| Guanaco |
The fleece hair from the
guanaco, a small, relatively rare, crossbred
animal, of the llama and alpaca. The fleece is
very fine and silky and ranges in colour from
reddish brown to white. Guanaco is now a
protected species. to Southern Argentina.
Produced fleece of the most glorious natural
honey beige colour. Very soft. |
| Guanaco Species |
The Guanaco is considered to be
a wild species, like the Vicuña. Some scientists
think that Lamas and Alpacas are races derived
from the Guanaco. Others consider that they're
different species. Actually, we can say that
both theories are valid. In the natural
environment, those animals make up herds of 5 to
10 females, a male and their offspring. The
period in which the Guanacos are in heat
corresponds to the southern summer, between
November and February. The gestation period
lasts eleven months. The Guanaco belongs to the
South American Camelids and is a little bigger
than the Vicuña. |
| Guard Hairs |
Fibres, which project beyond the
under-coat of some mammals. They are usually
coarser than under-coat fibres.The term used to
describe, the fibres projecting beyond the
undercoat of some mammals. They are usually
coarser than undercoat fibres. |
| Guar Gum |
(Galactomannan) is a high
molecular weight carbohydrate polymer derived
from the natural seed of guar plant (Cyampopis
tetragonolobus). Part of the seed is Hull
(14-17%), Endosperm (35-42%), and germ (43-47%).
Guar gum is a polysaccharide consisting of a
mannose backbone with a galactose side chain.
The galactose is randomly placed on the mannose
backbone with the average ratio 1:2 of galactose
to mannose. Guar gum has a polymeric structure
containing numerous hydroxyl groups, which are
treated for manufacturing various derivatives
used for special applications in various
industries. The powder is off white to yellowish
in colour depending on the quality of the seed.
Guar gum is obtained by an automatic mechanical
process in which first the seed is split into
two halves and the hull and the germ is
mechanically scraped off to obtain endosperm.
The endosperm thus obtained is further purified
and grounded into powder of required granulation
and viscosity. Neelkanth Polymers'
state-of-the-art plant is capable of producing
several grades of guar gum ranging from very low
to very high viscosity and from coarse to fine
granulation. Guar Gum gives excellent film
forming and thickening properties when used for
textile sizing, finishing and printing. It
reduces warp breakage, reduces dusting while
sizing and gives better efficiency in
production. |
| Guayabera |
The Guayabera Shirt
(gwai-a-Ber-a) is one of the most authentic
symbols of Latin Culture. They are made of light
fabrics to weather tropical heat. Distinctive
for its two vertical pleats, four spacious
pockets and embroidery detail in a variety of
fashion colours. Usually short-sleeved (but also
designed in long sleeve) lightweight sport shirt
designed to be worn un-tucked. |
| Guide |
? Smooth, clear-finished fabric,
made with cotton, linen or viscose or blend of
viscose staple and cotton. The fabric is woven
on a dobby loom in small geometric patterns of
uniform spots that has a centre point that
suggest a bird’s eye, and hence the name. The
small dimples or indentations of diamond-shaped
figures, each with a dot in the centre, are
fashioned by the weave and colours on the
surface of the fabric. Sometimes made also from
worsteds. The fabric is very soft, lightweight,
and absorbent. It is woven with a loosely
twisted filling to increase absorbency. Used for
fine quality suiting for men and women. Also
‘novelty’ Birdseye effects used as summer dress
fabrics. ? Cotton diaper cloth made in a bird’s
eye weave. ? Knitted fabric, having on its face
a salt and pepper effect, which is achieved by
employing a special type of knitting technique.
|
| Guide |
An element for controlling the
path of a yarn or fabric. |
| Guide Bar |
A component of a warp-knitting
machine containing yarn guides, necessary for
guiding the yarns to the needles for knitting.
|
| Guimpe |
A blouse worn under a jumper or
pinafore. |
| Guipure |
A heavy large-patterned
decorative lace. |
| Guipure Lace |
A needlepoint lace made with a
heavy buttonhole stitch and with the pattern on
a coarse mesh or held together with connecting
threads.An openwork lace composed of thick,
heavy embroidered patterns, often with quite
large motifs. The ground fabric is made from
nylon, acetate or sometimes cotton; the thick
embroidery is worked onto the ground fabric and
then the ground fabric is removed by chemical
dissolving or other means that will not affect
the embroidery. Originally a hand-made Italian
type lace, it is now made entirely by machine.
|
| Gules |
The heraldic colour
red. |
| Gum |
See Sericin |
| Gum Arabic |
A colloidal substance obtained
from several species of acacia plant. It is used
as a size, adhesive and thickener in finishing
operations and textile printing. |
| Gum Boot |
A rubber boot |
| Gum-Sericin |
A gelatinous protein, usually
comprising 20% to 30% by mass of raw silk,
cementing the two fibroin filaments (brins) in a
silk fibre (bave). |
| Gum Waste |
The term used to describe, he
waste comprising all broken silk threads that
have been discarded during reeling, or at the
inspection of skeins, and that have not
undergone any further processing. |
| Gum Waste |
Waste comprising all broken silk
threads that have been discarded during reeling,
or at the inspection of the skeins, and that
have not undergone any further processing.
|
| Gun Club Checks |
A variation of the houndstooth
weave, it is a very distinct, active-looking
check weave used for natty woollen sportswear.
The checks are usually woven in colours of
green, brown and occasionally blue, sometimes
with an overcheck. The resultant check has a
combination effect. Used mainly for natty
sportswear. |
| Gunny |
A strong, coarse, plain weave
fabric usually of jute. Similar to burlap but
heavier and coarser. Used for baling and
sacks. |
| Gunny Bag |
A term originally used to
describe, sacks and sacking made from jute; now
used to describe also other small bags made from
other fibres, notably polypropylene. The name
has its origin from the Sanskrit word 'goni'
meaning, sack. |
| Gunmetal |
A bluish grey colour. |
| Gut Thread |
See Stuffer yarn |
| Gypsum |
A chemical used for sizing
cotton goods; it is hydrous sulphate of calcium.
|
| Gypsy Cloth |
See Flannelette
|
