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Home > Online Textile Dictionary
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Word
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Category
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Short
description
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Description
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| GABERDINE |
fabrics |
Traditionally it
was a fine quality wool fabric showing clear prominent
steep sloping twill with a prominent rib on the face and
a flat back. Always has more warp than weft. Long floats
make the diagonal lines, and there are short floats between
the wales. |
Traditionally it
was a fine quality wool fabric showing clear prominent
steep sloping twill with a prominent rib on the face and
a flat back. Always has more warp than weft. Long floats
make the diagonal lines, and there are short floats between
the wales. Fabric is lightweight and, due to the close
weave and steep slope of the rib, gaberdine (especially
gaberdine worsted) is amazingly water repellent. Other
fibres used include cotton, viscose, wool, silk, polyester
and cotton. The steep twill is obtained by setting the
warp yarns closely together, and opening the weft yarn
spacing. The face twills are made prominent by arranging
the loom so that warp yarns on the back of the cloth are
pulled together than those on the face. The 2/2 twill
is the standard weave, but the 2/1 twill is also used.
Union gaberdines are made using a worsted wool warp and
a cotton weft. The special construction hides the weft
almost completely. Very fine construction can be used
in all cotton gaberdines and fabrics of staple fibre rayon
are also made. Whilst it is primarily a rainwear fabric
gaberdine is made in a variety of weights, constructions
and colours for dress and suiting use; some of the cotton
dress styles are made in a drill (3/1) weave. |
| GAGE |
general |
See Gauge. |
See Gauge. |
| GAGING THREAD |
accessories |
A heavy thread
temporarily woven near the edge of a fabric. |
A heavy thread
temporarily woven near the edge of a fabric. It is withdrawn,
after weaving, leaving the filling threads forming a loop
selvedge. Similar to Catch cord. |
| GAIT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, apparatus, equipage, tools, processes, operations |
IN FLAX. A large
handful of loose, pulled flax, stood up on end in a cone
form to dry. |
1. IN FLAX. A large
handful of loose, pulled flax, stood up on end in a cone
form to dry.
2. IN LACE MACHINES.
(a) The distance between the centres of adjacent comb
blades.
(b) A measure of the distance over which a thread is moved,
e.g. 'two gaits' means 'across two spaces'.
3. IN WEAVING.
(a) Also called Gait-up, Gaiting. General term used to
describe the positioning of the warp, healds, and reed
in the loom, in readiness for weaving. Where drop wires
are inserted on the warp during warp preparation, gaiting
also includes the positioning of the drop wires in the
loom. See also Loom-ing.
(b) A full repeat of the draft in the healds, or in case
of jacquard, in one complete row of the har-ness. |
| GAIT UP |
processes, operations |
See Gait |
See Gait |
| GAIT-OVER |
fabrics |
A complete repeat
design in dobby weave. |
A complete repeat
design in dobby weave. |
| GAITING |
processes, operations |
See Gait and Gating |
See Gait and Gating |
| GALA TWILL |
fabrics |
A four up, four
down, twill weave. |
A four up, four
down, twill weave. |
| GALATEA |
fabrics |
Cotton fabric in
twill weave, made plain, or in simple stripe patterns |
Cotton fabric in
twill weave, made plain, or in simple stripe patterns,
for nurses' uniforms, children's clothes, linings. Is
given a hard lustrous finish, which repels dirt |
| GALLOON |
accessories |
Ribbon used as
a band on men's hats, and as a binding on ladies' court
shoes |
1. Ribbon used
as a band on men's hats, and as a binding on ladies' court
shoes; the metallic ones used to decorate uniforms.
2. Any narrow fabric used for trimming. |
| GALLOON LACE |
fabrics |
Lace fabric with
a finished scalloped edge on both sides |
Lace fabric with
a finished scalloped edge on both sides. See also Banded
laces. |
| GAPING |
defects |
Fabric defect in
crêpe goods, caused by irregular shrinkage of the
yarns. |
Fabric defect in
crêpe goods, caused by irregular shrinkage of the
yarns. An uneven twist in the yarn causes the irregular
shrinkage, resulting in gaping or uneven closing of threads. |
| GARANCINE |
processes, operations |
A style of maroon
to red-brown prints |
A style of maroon
to red-brown prints produced by treating the madder root
with sulphuric acid. |
| GARMENT |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A shaped article
of textile fabric, or other flexible sheet material, intended
to cover portions of the human body. |
A shaped article
of textile fabric, or other flexible sheet material, intended
to cover portions of the human body.
Garments may be grouped as: Activewear, Blouses, Bottoms,
Bridal, Dresses, Dress shirts, Foundations, Hosiery, Outerwear,
Pyjamas, Robes, Skirts, Sleepwear, Sport coats Sport shirts,
Suits, Sweaters, Swimwear, Tailored clothing, Underwear,
Uniforms, Workwear, Tops, etc. |
| GARMENT BLANK |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
See Knitted blank. |
See Knitted blank. |
| GARMENT DEFECTS |
defects |
Critical, |
Garment manufacturing
involves many varied operations and a very large number
of operators. Operations, with some exceptions, are largely
controlled by the operator and not machine-controlled.
Fabric types and garment styles are being increasingly
diversified in a great way. Methods, trimmings and machinery
are being continual changed. All these facts may contribute
to garment defects of varied type, size and intensity.
Assessment/Assortment of garment defects:
The garment defects are, generally, classified for the
purpose of evaluation, into:
Critical defects in garment: Defects, which could result
in hazardous or unsafe conditions for indi-viduals using
or maintaining the product as well as defects contravening
the legal regulations.
Major defects in garment: Functional defects reducing
the usability or the expected life-time of the product
as well as obvious visual defects reducing the sales-value
of the product or making it un-saleable.
Minor defects in garment: Minor visual defects |
| GARMENT DEFECTS,
CLASSIFIED |
defects |
Garment defects,
classified according to the various manufacturing stages |
Garment defects,
classified according to the various manufacturing stages
are:
Pattern defects in garment:
Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the
marker did not include the correct number of parts.
Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly
labelled, resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts.
Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped fabrics.
Not all patterns facing in same direction (either way)
on a one-way fabric.
Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.
Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly
printed line, perforated lay not powdered) leading to
inaccurate cutting.
Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use
the outside edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved
or swung after partial marking to squeeze the pattern
into a smaller space for economising the fabric. Marking
back from miniature markers also can cause trouble unless
the miniature marker making is in the hands of experienced
operators. Alternatively the full size pattern may be
having worn out edges.
Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy
marking results in components being sewn together with
puckering and pleating.
When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the
edges of the lay get cut with bits missing.
Not enough knife clearance freedom.
Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are not
matching.
Wrong check boxing, i.e. checks are not showing a full
or partial box across the seam.
Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.
Spreading defects in garment:
Not enough plies to cover quantity of garments required.
Plies misaligned, resulting in garment parts getting cut
with bits missing in some plies at the edge of the spread.
Narrow fabric, causes garment parts at the edge of the
lay getting cut with bits missing.
Incorrect tension of plies, i.e. fabric spread too tight
or too loose. This will result in parts not fitting in
sewing, and finished garments not meeting size tolerances.
Not all plies facing in correct direction (whether 'one
way' as with nap, or 'one way either way' as with some
check designs). This happens when fabric is not spread
face down, face up, or face to face as re-quired.
Unacceptable damages in the garment parts.
Parts not fully included owing to splicing errors.
Spread distorted by the attraction or repulsion of plies
caused by excessive static electricity.
Plies are not spread accurately one above another for
cutting. This results in mismatching checks.
Cutting defects in garment:
Inaccurate cutting. Failure to follow the marker lines
resulting in distorted garment parts. Top and bot-tom
plies can be a different size if the straight knife is
allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high
a spread.
Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow, angled,
omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric.
Drill marks, which are misplaced, wrong drill to suit
fabric, omitted, not perpendicular through the spread.
Frayed edges, scorched or fused edges, caused by a faulty
knife, not sharp enough, or rotating at too high a speed.
Knife cut. Garment part damaged by careless use of knife,
perhaps overrunning cutting previous piece.
Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread. Garment
parts have bits missing at edge of lay. If too tight or
too loose then garment parts are distorted.
Slits opened inaccurately or omitted.
Sewing preparation defects in garment:
Mixed plies resulting in shaded garment parts, when assembled.
Mixed size parts.
Parts missing.
Work tickets, coupon payment tickets or progress tickets
omitted, misplaced or mixed.
Shade marking by pencil or machine too dark, too light,
showing through, illegible or wrong side of fab-ric.
Ink stains.
Adhesive shade marking tickets falling off or sticking
too hard, omitted, misplaced, wrongly numbered.
Sewn on shade marking tickets falling off, damaging fabric,
omitted, misplaced, wrongly numbered.
Wrong size, wrong shade, wrong type of trimmings put in
bundle.
Bundles or boxes not stacked in numerical order (where
this is significant).
Parts not stacked in correct order in box, or rolled in
correct order in bundle; or rolled or folded too tightly
causing creases.
Sewing defects in garment:
Holes, picked threads, ruptured thread on the fabric,
caused by wrong size or type of needle, blunt needle,
needle heat or machine feeding difficulty.
Feed damage, particularly on thicker or sheer fabrics,
or when machine cover transverse seams, arising from incorrect
type of teeth, excessive pressure by foot, improper alignment
of feed and foot, damaged throat plate, excessive machine
speed.
Skipped stitches from the hook irregularly failing to
pick up the loop of thread from the needle's eye ow-ing
to a number of reasons.
Thread breaks, arising from too thick a thread for the
needle, too thin a thread, needle heat, operator working
unrythmically, too tight tensions and so on.
Broken stitches, arising from wrong stitch type, too tight
tensions, a badly formed join in the seam where the second
line of stitch runs over the first and cracks it, sharp
feeds, too great a pressure and so on.
Seam grin, arising from too loose a tension or too large
a stitch, or use of wrong stitch type.
Seam pucker, because of incorrect handling by the operator,
misaligned notches, tight thread tensions and so on.
Pleated seams, an excessive form of seam puckering, or
where operator failed to ease in fullness evenly.
Wrong stitch density; too many gives rise to jamming and
rupture of fabric threads; too few to grinning or weak
seams.
Uneven stitch density. Operator causes machine to snatch
and does not allow machine to control fabric.
Staggered stitch, from faulty feed motion, incorrect needle
and other machine parts.
Improperly formed stitches, caused by bad tension, incorrectly
adjusted timing, ill-fitting machine com-ponents.
Oil spots or stains.
Seaming defects in garment: Usually caused by errors arising
from the interaction of operator and machine in the handling
of the garment.
Incorrect or uneven width of inlay, arising from bad handling
by operator, incorrectly set guide, incor-rectly adjusted
folder. In extreme cases the burst open raw edges show,
slippage of weave threads oc-curs, or notches are exposed.
Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line, (sometimes
called 'run offs') in top stitching, arising from lack
of or badly set guide, not following a mark, or incorrect
handling.
Insecure back stitching, because subsequent rows do not
cover the first row of stitching.
Twisted seam leading to irregular puckering or the garment
parts not hanging correctly when worn; caused by improper
alignment of fabric parts, mismatched notches, and allowing
one ply to creep against another.
Mismatched checks or stripes.
Mismatched seam, where transverse seams do not match (e.g.
inside leg seams at the fork of trousers).
Extraneous part caught in seam; an unrelated piece showing
through the seam.
Reversed garment part, where part is sewn with face side
opposite from specification; perhaps when the part cut
for one side of a garment is sewn in the other, or when
the whole garment is assembled in-side out.
Blind stitching showing on face side, or not securely
caught on inside, arising from improperly adjusted bender.
Wrong seam type or stitch type used.
Wrong shade of thread used.
Automatic machine and attachments defects in garment:
Ragged or frayed edges, where knife attachments fail to
cut efficiently.
Uncut buttonholes, buttonholes not securely caught on
fabric edge, wrong size, not securely fastened off.
Untied stitches, where tying stitches on automatic machines
fail to secure properly.
Uneven widths of piping, arising from incorrect selection
or adjustment of folders.
Automatic thread trimmer failing to cut.
Housekeeping defects in garment:
Scissors or knife cut.
Tear.
Picked or pulled thread.
Hole, arising from faulty machine, faulty furniture, cigarette
burn, etc.
Stains, biro ink, stamp ink, oil, dirt, food, human, bird,
animal, rust, water and so on.
Thread ends not trimmed.
Shade marking tickets not removed from inside a lined
garment.
Foreign bodies between lining and outer cloth, which can
be felt or seen.
Incorrect label sewn on, or sewn on in wrong place.
Underpressing defects in garment:
Seams not fully pressed open, narrow plaits showing along
part of seam on the outside of the garment.
Uneven edges or shapes (this may be an interaction between
sewing and pressing.
Piping rolled the wrong way on an edge.
Permanent glaze, or a change in the shade or surface characteristics
of the fabric.
Scorches or burns.
Creases incorrectly formed.
Misplaced creases.
Fullness not 'pressed away', ineffective moulding.
Fusing defects in garment:
Interlining not securely fused, owing to incorrect temperature
or pressure, too short a time of fusing, or wrong choice
of resin to suit fabric. What looks secure to the eye,
or feels secure to the hand is not nec-essarily secure
in wear, washing, or dry cleaning.
Strike through, where the resin is forced through the
surface of the outer fabric.
Strike back, where the resin is forced through the back
of the interlining.
Hard handle, arising from incorrect choice of resin backing
cloth, or improperly adjusted fusing condi-tions of time,
temperature and pressure.
Final pressing defects in garment:
Burned or scorched garments.
Water spots.
Gloss.
Flattened nap or surface.
Broken zips, buttons, etc.
Creases not correctly formed.
Fabric of finished garment not smooth, wrinkle free and
showing its proper appearance.
Edges wavy and stretched, or thick and cockled.
Garments not thoroughly dried.
Pockets not smooth.
Lining shows pleats, creases, wrinkles, shine.
Garment not correctly mouled either in detail or in total
silhouette.
Folding, packing and warehousing defects in garment:
Garment not folded to specifications.
Garment not folded with correct material, such as cardboard,
tissue, polythene, etc.
Pins or folds in garment incorrectly positioned.
Garments not buttoned, zipped, or otherwise closed (or
vice-versa).
Labels not showing where required.
Garment not correctly positioned in box.
Too many garments in box or hanging wardrobe (during delivery).
Hanging garments crushed and distorted in warehouse.
Garment deteriorated in warehouse through obsolescence,
owing to improper turnover of stock, attacks by water,
mould or animal agencies; degradation by sunlight. |
| GARMENT SIZING
SYSTEM |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
In garment construction,
a method of designating garment sizes. |
In garment construction,
a method of designating garment sizes. A selection of
terms related to garment sizing are:
Acromion: In anatomy, that part of the shoulder blade
located at the end of the spine, which articulates with
the collarbone. See also 'shoulder joint', below.
Ankle: In anatomy, the joint between the foot and the
lower leg.
Ankle girth: In body measurements, the circumference of
the leg over the greatest prominence of the an-kle.
Arm length: In body measurements, with the arm bent at
90° and the clenched fist placed on the hip, the distance
from the shoulder joint along the outside of the arm over
the elbow to the greatest prominence on the outside of
the wrist.
Armhole: In garment construction, the area of a garment
through which the arm passes or into which a sleeve is
fitted. The armhole is not necessarily the same shape
or location as the armscye. (Compare 'Arm-scye'.)
Armpit: In anatomy, the hollow under the junction of the
arm and the shoulder.
Armscye: In garment construction, the opening in a garment
for attachment of a fitted sleeve. Armscye is a tailor's
term for armhole. The opening follows a line passing over
the shoulder joint, front- and back-break points and armpit
area. (Compare'Armhole'.)
Armscye circumference: In body measurements, the body
measurement with the arm hanging down, the distance from
the shoulder joint through the front-break point, the
armpit, the back-break point and to the starting point.
Back break-point: In anatomy, the location on the back
of the body where the arm separates from the body.
Back width: Also called 'Cross back width'. In body measurements,
the distance from back break point to back break point.
Body dimensions: In garment construction, a body measurement
which can be used to build a sizing sys-tem or to select
an appropriately sized garment. See also 'Sizing system'.
Body measurements: In anthropometry, body measurements
are standardised distance between two specified points
on the human anatomy. Body measurements generally are
based on standardised values from statistical studies
of large populations.
Bust: See 'Bust girth'.
Bust girth: Also called ''Bust', 'Full-bust girth'. In
body measurements, the circumference of the body over
the fullest part of the breasts and parallel to the floor.
(Compare 'Chest girth'.)
Bust point to bust point: In body measurements, the distance
across the front from the apex of one breast to the apex
of the other.
Calf girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference
around the leg between the knee and an-kle, parallel to
the floor.
Centre back waist length: In body measurements, the vertical
distance along the spine from the cervcale to the waist.
Centre front waist length: In body measurements, the vertical
distance from the neck baseline at the cen-tre front to
the waist level.
Cervicale to bust point: In body measurements, the distance
from the cervicale around the base of the neck and down
to the bust point.
Cervicale to wrist: In body measurements, with the arm
bent, the distance from the cervicale to the shoul-der
joints, along the outside of the arm, over the elbow to
the greater prominence on the outside of the wrist.
Chest girth: Also called 'High-bust girth'. In body measurements,
the circumference of the body over the shoulder blades,
under the arms and across the upper chest. (Compare 'Bust
girth'.)
Cross-back width: See 'Back width'.
Cross-chest width: In body measurements, the distance
from front break point to the back-point.
Crotch: In anatomy, the body area adjacent to the vertex
of the included angle between the legs.
Crotch height: See 'Inside-leg length'.
Crown: In anatomy, the top of the head.
Elbow: In anatomy, the joint which articulates between
the upper arm and the lower arm.
Elbow girth: The body measurement with the arm straight,
the circumference of the elbow.
Front Breakpoint: In anatomy, the location on the front
of the body where the arm separates from the body.
Full Bust Girth: See 'Bust girth'.
Head girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference
of the head above the ears.
Height: In body measurements, the vertical distance from
the crown of standing subject to the soles of the feet.
For persons unable to stand, height is measured while
they are lying down.
High-bust girth: See 'Chest girth', above.
High-hip girth: In body measurements, the circumference
of the body at a point approximately 7.5 cm be-low the
waist and parallel to the floor. (Compare 'Hip girth'.)
Hip: In anatomy, the laterally projecting region formed
by the lateral parts of the pelvis and the upper part
of the femur together with the flesh covering them.
Hip girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference
of the body at the level of maximum promi-nence of the
buttocks.
Inside-leg length: Also called 'Crotch height'. In body
measurements, the vertical distance from the crotch to
the soles of the feet.
Knee: In anatomy, the joint between the lower and upper
leg.
Knee girth: In body measurements, with the leg straight,
the circumference of the knee over the kneecap and parallel
to the floor.
Mid-neck girth: In body measurements, the circumference
of the neck approximately 25 mm above the neck base. (Compare
'Neck base girth'.)
Mid-thigh girth: In body measurements, the circumference
of the upper leg between the hip and the knee.
Outside-leg length: In body measurements, the distance
from the side waist to the soles of the feet, follow-ing
the curve of the body.
Scye depth: In body measurements, the distance from the
cervicale to a point level with the armpit.
Shoulder joint: In anatomy, the juncture of the collarbone
and the shoulder blade. The outer end of the col-larbone
or clavicle pivots against the acromion which in turn
pivots against the humerus or upper arm bone in the arm.
These bones form the shoulder girdle. See 'Acromion',
above.
Shoulder length: In body measurements, the distance from
the side neck base to the armscye line at the shoulder
joint.
Shoulder slope: In body measurements, the angle formed
when the slant of the shoulder line deviates from the
horizontal line that originates at the side neck base.
Sizing system: In garment construction, a method of designating
garment sizes.
Thigh Girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference
of the upper leg close to the crotch. (Compare 'Mid-thigh
girth.)
Total crotch length: In body measurements, the distance
from the waist level at centre front through the crotch
to the waist level at centre back.
Total vertical trunk length: In body measurements, the
distance from the right shoulder line midway be-tween
the neck base and the shoulder joint, down the back through
the crotch and over the projection of the right breast
to the starting point.
Underarm Length: In body measurements, the body measurement
with the arm down, the distance from the armpit to the
midpoint on the inside of the wrist in line with the greatest
prominence.
Upperarm girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference
of the arm usually midway between the elbow and the shoulder
joint.
Upperarm length: In body measurements, with the arm bent,
the distance from the shoulder joint along the outside
of the arm to the prominence of the elbow.
Waist: In anatomy, the part of the body at the location
between the lowest rib and hip identified by bending the
body to the side.
Waist girth: In body measurements, the circumference of
the waist immediately below the lowest rib.
Wrist: In anatomy, the joint which articulates between
the end of the lower arm and the hand.
Wrist girth: In body measurements, the circumference over
the prominence of the inner and outer forearm bones. |
| GARMENT TWIST |
defects |
A rotation, usually
lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting
from the release of latent stresses during laundering
of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment |
A rotation, usually
lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting
from the release of latent stresses during laundering
of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment. Twist
may also be referred to as Torque or Spirality. |
| GARMENT-LENGTH
KNITTING MACHINE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A knitting machine,
most often the circular type |
A knitting machine,
most often the circular type, used for the production
of individual garment-panels in series, rather than for
the continuous production of fabric. |
| GARNETT MACHINE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A type of carding
machine |
A type of carding
machine containing rollers and cylinders covered with
saw-like metallic teeth, used for garnetting. See Garnetting. |
| GARNETTING |
processes, operations |
The breaking up
of yarns and fabric (soft and hard wastes) to a fluffy,
fibrous condition for reuse. |
The breaking up
of yarns and fabric (soft and hard wastes) to a fluffy,
fibrous condition for reuse. |
| GARTER BAND |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
See After-welt. |
See After-welt. |
| GARTER WEBBING |
accessories |
An elastic narrow
fabric, sometimes multicoloured, characterised by selvedges
that form a frill on relaxation. |
An elastic narrow
fabric, sometimes multicoloured, characterised by selvedges
that form a frill on relaxation. It may also be a medium-strength
elastic narrow fabric for supporting socks or stockings. |
| GARTER-STITCH |
seams, stitches |
Simple stitch done
by hand or machine |
Simple stitch done
by hand or machine, used in plain weft knitting. |
| GAS |
processes, operations |
See Singeing. |
See Singeing. |
| GAS FADING |
processes, operations |
See Atmospheric
fading |
See Atmospheric
fading |
| GAS FADING INHIBITOR |
³ |
Chemicals applied
to dyed acetate fabrics to inhibit gas fading. |
Chemicals applied
to dyed acetate fabrics to inhibit gas fading. |
| GASSING |
processes, operations |
See Singeing |
See Singeing |
| GATHERING |
seams, stitches |
The shortening
of fabric length by drawing together and holding a succession
of small folds of material by stitching. |
The shortening
of fabric length by drawing together and holding a succession
of small folds of material by stitching. Machine gathering
or Gauging is achieved by the use of a special presser
foot or attachment |
| GATING |
processes, operations |
See Gait |
1. IN WEAVING.
See Gait.
2. IN KNITTING. Also called Gaiting. In knitting, the
relative alignment of two sets of knitting ele-ments,
e.g. needles, on knitting machines. Two forms of needle
gaiting (rib and interlock), are common and may be interchangeable
on the same machine. Types of gaiting are:
(a) Interlock gaiting: The opposed alignment of one set
of needles with the other on a knitting ma-chine.
(b) Purl gaiting: The opposed alignment of tricks of two
needle beds lying in the same plane, on a machine equipped
with double-headed needles.
(c) Rib gaiting: The alternate alignment of one set of
needles with the other on a machine equipped with two
sets of needles arranged to knit rib fabrics |
| GAUARDS CHECK |
fabrics |
See under Checks |
See under Checks |
| GAUFRÉ |
processes, operations |
An effect produced
on the surface of fabric, by pressing in hot calenders. |
An effect produced
on the surface of fabric, by pressing in hot calenders.
These produce designs in relief on the fabric, e.g. honeycomb-like,
waffle-like, crimp-like, etc. |
| GAUGE |
general, apparatus,
equipage, tools |
Sometimes called
Gage. A standard measure of distance or dimension. |
Sometimes called
Gage. A standard measure of distance or dimension.
1. IN KNITTING: Also called Cut.
(a) A measure of fineness expressing the number of needles
per unit of width (across the wales).
The linear spacing of needles in the bed or bar of a knitting
machine. Expressed as needles per inch, needles per 1.5
inch, or as a number of millimetres per 10 tricks (needle
spaces). Imperial measure is commonly used worldwide.
(b) A term specifying a dimension, usually thickness,
of the needles or other loop-forming elements of a knitting
machine.
2. IN MULTI-POSITION MACHINES. Also called Pitch. The
distance measured horizontally between spindles, drive
drum centres, or adjacent yarns in a multi-position machine.
3. IN LACE MACHINES.
(a) A term specifying the comb spacing.
(b) A term traditionally specifying the number of needles
per inch on warp lace machines.
4. In linking. A term specifying the spacing of points
(gauge) in linking and point seaming ma-chines and expressed
as the number of elements per unit of length.
5. GAUGE IN TUFTED PILE YARN FLOOR COVERING: The average
distance between adjacent binding sites in the widthwise
direction.
6. GAUGE IN TUFTING MACHINE: The average centerline distance
between the needles.
7. IN SEWING. The distance between needles on a sewing
machine.
8. GAUGE AS INSTRUMENT: An instrument for measuring the
thickness of woven fabric |
| GAUGE, STITCH |
seams, stitches |
See Stitch gauge. |
See Stitch gauge. |
| GAUGING |
seams, stitches |
See under Gathering. |
See under Gathering. |
| GAUNTLET CUFF |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
See under Cuff. |
See under Cuff. |
| GAUZ SYLPHIDE |
fabrics |
A fabric made by
alternating strips of gauze and satin brocade ribbon, |
A fabric made by
alternating strips of gauze and satin brocade ribbon,
used mainly for women's clothing. |
| GAUZE |
fabrics |
Sheer, loosely
woven, plain-weave fabric, made from cotton, silk, viscose,
acetate. |
Sheer, loosely
woven, plain-weave fabric, made from cotton, silk, viscose,
acetate. May be soft and unfinished in appearance or it
may be sized to add stiffness. Often used as a mounting
fabric. Some open lacy gauze is made for curtains and
drapes. |
| GAUZE WEAVING |
processes, operations |
A method of producing
the simpler types of lightweight fabric by leno weave. |
A method of producing
the simpler types of lightweight fabric by leno weave.
The term is commonly used as a synonym for leno weave. |
| GDD |
general |
Abbreviation for
'Galvano, directly designed' screen in printing. |
Abbreviation for
'Galvano, directly designed' screen in printing. The screen
mesh and the pattern are 'grown' on a mandrel at one and
the same time. |
| GEAR CRIMPING |
processes, operations |
See under Texturing. |
See under Texturing. |
| GEL DYEING |
processes, operations |
A continuous tow
dyeing method in which soluble dyes are applied to wet-spun
fibres (e.g. acrylic for modacrylic fibres) in the gel
state, |
A continuous tow
dyeing method in which soluble dyes are applied to wet-spun
fibres (e.g. acrylic for modacrylic fibres) in the gel
state, i.e. after extrusion and coagulation, but before
drawing and drying. |
| GELATIN FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A remarkably shiny,
man-made fibre. |
A remarkably shiny,
man-made fibre. It used to be spun from a solution of
gelatin and then treated with formaldehyde, making it
insoluble in water. Used to develop gelatin silk, ultimately
known as rayon. The fibre, however, never attained commercial
significance. |
| GELATINISATION |
processes, operations |
The conversion
of granular size to a viscous adhesive liquid. |
The conversion
of granular size to a viscous adhesive liquid. |
| GENAPPE YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A gassed worsted
yarn. See also Gassing. |
A gassed worsted
yarn. See also Gassing. |
| GENERIC CLASS |
general |
A grouping having
similar chemical compositions or specific chemical characteristics. |
A grouping having
similar chemical compositions or specific chemical characteristics. |
| GENOA TWILL |
fabrics |
A three harness
twill fabric. |
A three harness
twill fabric. |
| GENOA VELVET |
fabrics |
Elaborate velvet
of satin ground fabric with a multicoloured pile. |
Elaborate velvet
of satin ground fabric with a multicoloured pile. Pile
is sometimes left uncut. |
| GENTLE WASH CYCLE |
processes, operations |
Also called Delicate
wash cycle |
Also called Delicate
wash cycle. A wash cycle in which agitation is slow and
time is reduced. |
| GEOGRID |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A network of integrally
connected tensile elements |
A network of integrally
connected tensile elements used to reinforce and stabilise
civil engineering structures. |
| GEOMEMBRANE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A barrier of very
low permeability |
A barrier of very
low permeability, which may or may not incorporate textile
reinforcement, used to control flow of fluids. |
| GEORGETTE |
fabrics |
Filmy crêpe
fabric, woven with very hard (highly) twisted 'S' and
'Z' yarns in both warp and weft and woven in a special
crêpe weave. |
Filmy crêpe
fabric, woven with very hard (highly) twisted 'S' and
'Z' yarns in both warp and weft and woven in a special
crêpe weave. This combination gives a rather springy
fabric, with strong crèpe effect and crisp handle.
A difficult fabric to make up, but it drapes well. Plain
or printed, and made from a variety of yarns including
silk, wool, rayon, polyester, and nylon. Georgette does
not crease readily and polyester georgette will hardly
crease at all. Used for blouses, dresses (with lining),
evening wear, over-dresses with opaque fabric beneath.
It can be bonded to acetate locknit to improve the stability
and make the fabric easier to use |
| GEOTEXTILES |
fabrics |
Any permeable textile
materials used for filtration, drainage, separation, reinforcement
and stabilisation purposes as an integral part of civil
engineering structures on earth, rock or other constructional
materials. |
Any permeable textile
materials used for filtration, drainage, separation, reinforcement
and stabilisation purposes as an integral part of civil
engineering structures on earth, rock or other constructional
materials. |
| GERM RESISTANT |
fabrics |
Fabrics treated
with compounds to protect the wearer against fungi and
germs. |
Fabrics treated
with compounds to protect the wearer against fungi and
germs. |
| GERMICIDAL AGENT |
³ |
See Bacteriostat |
See Bacteriostat |
| GIG |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A finishing machine
containing teasels and used for raising a nap on a fabric. |
A finishing machine
containing teasels and used for raising a nap on a fabric. |
| GIGGING |
processes, operations |
A fabric finishing
operation in which surface fibres are raised to produce
a nap or cover on the cloth. |
A fabric finishing
operation in which surface fibres are raised to produce
a nap or cover on the cloth. It is performed on cloth
with teasels, which are the dried flower heads of a thistle
plant, or with metallic substitute. The cloth is brought
in to contact with teasels which cover the surface of
a rotating cylinder. |
| GILDING |
processes, operations |
See Oxidised oil
staining. |
See Oxidised oil
staining. |
| GILLING |
processes, operations |
See Pin drafting |
See Pin drafting |
| GIMP |
accessories |
A core helically
wrapped by one or more threads, resulting in a stiff cord. |
1. A core helically
wrapped by one or more threads, resulting in a stiff cord.
2. An upholstery trimming usually made wholly or partly
from gimp as defined above.
3. A special thread used to support and raise the buttonhole
stitching. Also used for embroidery |
| GIMP YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A type of fancy
yarn. |
A type of fancy
yarn. A compound yarn comprising a twisted core with an
effect yarn wrapped around it so as to produce wavy projections
on its surface. Generally speaking, gimp yarns display
fairly regular semi-circular projections and loop yarns
have well-formed circular loops. |
| GIN |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A machine used
for separating the cotton fibre from the seed. |
A machine used
for separating the cotton fibre from the seed. The fibres
are drawn through openings which are too small for seed
to pass through |
| GIN CUT COTTON |
defects |
Cotton that has
been damaged in ginning |
Cotton that has
been damaged in ginning to the extent that its value is
reduced. |
| GINGHAM |
fabrics |
Plain weave fabric
made with dyed yarns balanced in strength, in stripes
and checks in a wide variety of types and qualities. |
Plain weave fabric
made with dyed yarns balanced in strength, in stripes
and checks in a wide variety of types and qualities. White
is always used with a colour. Usually cotton or polyester/cotton.
It is a crisp and firm fabric, very hardwearing. Has excellent
washing properties because very fast dyes are normally
employed. Used for blouses, shirts, dresses, children's
clothes, table clothes, napkins, and curtains. Very lightweight
gingham type fabrics are known as Zephyrs. |
| GINNED LINT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Cotton fibres that
have been separated from their seeds by ginning |
Cotton fibres that
have been separated from their seeds by ginning but not
subjected to any further processing after ginning. |
| GINNING |
processes, operations |
The mechanical
process by which cotton fibres are separated from their
seeds |
The mechanical
process by which cotton fibres are separated from their
seeds, quickly and efficiently to make the fibres available
for textile use. |
| GIVE-WAY |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A weak link inserted
in a mechanism for safety reasons. |
A weak link inserted
in a mechanism for safety reasons. |
| GIVRENE |
fabrics |
Silk, acetate or
polyester fabric very similar in appearance to Grosgrain. |
Silk, acetate or
polyester fabric very similar in appearance to Grosgrain.
Made from a fairly loosely folded cotton weft and twist
variations give a shimmer effect to the fabric because
the ribs are not uniformly round and even. See Grosgrain. |
| GLACÉ BINDING |
fabrics |
See under Binding |
See under Binding |
| GLACÉ EFFECT |
fabrics |
See Changeable
effect. |
See Changeable
effect. |
| GLACÉ LEATHER |
fabrics |
Goatskin; soft
and glossy. |
Goatskin; soft
and glossy. Used mainly for shoes. |
| GLASS FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A manufactured
fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is glass. |
A manufactured
fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is glass.
Extremely fine filaments are spun from ordinary glass
in its molten state. The extreme fineness of the filament
gives the material necessary flexibility for making it
into yarns and fabrics. Glass fibres are very strong,
however, it has practically no stretch. Fabrics lack resistance
to abrasion and flexing; the filaments break and the fabric
becomes fibrous as the broken filament-ends stick out.
Hence, glass is unsuitable for clothing, but its complete
non-flammability, chemical resistance, ease of washing
because of its complete lack of absorbency, and as they
do not deteriorate with age have made it useful for curtain
fabrics. Glass melts only at extremly high temperatures. |
| GLASS MINERAL WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Glass wool.. |
See Glass wool. |
| GLASS WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A variety of glass
fibre. |
Also called 'glass
mineral wool'. A variety of glass fibre. It is incombustible.
Principally used in heat and cold insulations and acoustical
applications. |
| GLASS-CLOTH |
fabrics |
Plain-weave fabric
made from twisted linen yarns, often woven in stripes
or checks, but sometimes printed. |
Plain-weave fabric
made from twisted linen yarns, often woven in stripes
or checks, but sometimes printed. The medium weight fabric
is made without any surface fuzz and is very durable.
Used to make tea towels for drying glass and china. Cotton
glass cloth is cheaper, but is not quite so effective
for drying up as it becomes damp sooner, and does not
wear as long as linen. |
| GLASS-RUBBER TRANSITION
TEMPERATURE (Tg) |
general |
Temperature zone
over which there is a reversible physical change |
Temperature zone
over which there is a reversible physical change from
a viscous or rubbery state to a brittle glassy state. |
| GLAUBER'S SALT |
³ |
A dyeing assistant
composed of hydrated sodium sulphate |
A dyeing assistant
composed of hydrated sodium sulphate |
| GLAZE |
fabrics |
The finish such
as shine, lustre, polish, etc., evident on some fabrics |
The finish such
as shine, lustre, polish, etc., evident on some fabrics.
Process utilises friction calendering, and ingredients
used depend on type of fabric. On cotton it is usually
produced by pressure rolls. A durable glaze finish will
withstand several washings. Also stabilises the weave. |
| GLAZED CHINTZ |
fabrics |
Chintz fabric,
which has been given a resin finish |
Chintz fabric,
which has been given a resin finish, which is more permanent
and will not wash out. See also Chintz |
| GLAZED THREAD |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A thread which
has been treated for lustre and smoothness |
A thread which
has been treated for lustre and smoothness with a sizing
applied in the finishing process. |
| GLAZING |
processes, operations |
Imparting a smooth,
glossy, plane surface to a fabric, by using heat, heavy
pressure, or friction. |
Imparting a smooth,
glossy, plane surface to a fabric, by using heat, heavy
pressure, or friction. Cotton fabrics such as chintz or
tarlatan may be treated with chemicals and run through
hot friction rollers to give them a smooth high polish.
Durable finish can be produced by proper selection of
chemicals and procedures. |
| GLEN URQUHART CHECK |
fabrics |
See under Checks. |
See under Checks. |
| GLEN URQUHART PLAID |
fabrics |
Name comes from
a Scottish clan. This fabric is also sometimes called
Overplaid, because the blocks of check weave are arranged
at right angles, and then there is a larger outline check
effect over this, often in another colour. |
Name comes from
a Scottish clan. This fabric is also sometimes called
Overplaid, because the blocks of check weave are arranged
at right angles, and then there is a larger outline check
effect over this, often in another colour. May be wool
or worsted and is made in various weights, from light
suiting to overcoating. An ornate plaid, used for golfing
clothes, cloaks, men's sporting hats and overcoats. See
also Glen urquhart check under Checks |
| GLENCARRY |
fabrics, garments,
made-ups, assemblies |
An English tweed
cloth made from woollen yarns of the hit or miss type |
1. FABRIC. An English
tweed cloth made from woollen yarns of the hit or miss
type and contains some so-called waste stock and low quality
fibres.
2. GARMENT. The term is also used to describe a cape-overcoat
and sometimes a Scotch cap |
| GLENSHEE |
fabrics |
Plain-weave fabric
made from mercerised cotton or linen, in a wide variety
of weights and used for all types of embroidery. |
Plain-weave fabric
made from mercerised cotton or linen, in a wide variety
of weights and used for all types of embroidery. |
| GLENSHEE CRASH |
fabrics |
Rough, uneven plain-weave
fabric of equal quantities of cotton and linen fibre. |
Rough, uneven plain-weave
fabric of equal quantities of cotton and linen fibre.
Used mainly for curtains and loose covers and as a base
for embroidery. |
| GLIDING |
processes, operations |
See under Oxidised
oil staining |
See under Oxidised
oil staining |
| GLISSADE |
fabrics |
Closely woven satin-weave
cotton fabric that is polished in finishing. |
Closely woven satin-weave
cotton fabric that is polished in finishing. Is made in
plain colours, an uninteresting fabric used only where
cotton lining is needed. |
| GLORIA |
fabrics |
Strong, firm, plain
weave cotton, silk or nylon fabric. |
Strong, firm, plain
weave cotton, silk or nylon fabric. Is very closely woven
and very lightweight, in plain, twill or satin weave.
Used for covering umbrellas as when stretched taut, it
is water repellent. |
| GLORIA SUEDE |
fabrics |
Firm heavy suede
fabric for jackets and coats. |
Firm heavy suede
fabric for jackets and coats. |
| GLOSS |
general |
See Specular gloss. |
See Specular gloss. |
| GLOVE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A covering for
the hand, often extending part way up the arm. See also
Dress glove. |
A covering for
the hand, often extending part way up the arm. See also
Dress glove. |
| GLOVE SILK |
fabrics |
Fine warp-knit
silk made in basic colours and used mainly for glove lining |
Fine warp-knit
silk made in basic colours and used mainly for glove lining,
although it was once also used for lingerie |
| GLOW |
general |
Visible flameless
combustion of the solid phase of a material. |
Visible flameless
combustion of the solid phase of a material. See Afterglow
and Smouldering. |
| GLOWING COMBUSTION |
processes, operations |
Combustion of a
material in the solid phase without flame but with emission
of light from the combustion zone |
Combustion of a
material in the solid phase without flame but with emission
of light from the combustion zone |
| GLUED SEAM |
seams, stitches |
A seam formed seam
by an adhesive. |
A seam formed seam
by an adhesive. |
| GO-THROUGH MACHINE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See under Lace
machines. |
See under Lace
machines. |
| GODET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A triangular insert
of material used in dressmaking and glove making. |
A triangular insert
of material used in dressmaking and glove making. |
| GOFFER |
processes, operations |
A process by which
fabrics are given a fluted, crimped, tucked, or raised-relief
appearance by means of heat and pressure. |
A process by which
fabrics are given a fluted, crimped, tucked, or raised-relief
appearance by means of heat and pressure. Used on yarn
or fabric. |
| GOLD THREAD |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A core yarn formed
by twisting or spiralling thin filaments of gold on a
central yarn of silk, cotton, man-made fibres, etc. |
A core yarn formed
by twisting or spiralling thin filaments of gold on a
central yarn of silk, cotton, man-made fibres, etc. 'Pure
gold' thread consists of a fine silver wire covered with
a gold film and 'Lyons gold thread' is copper wire covered
with a gold film. Originally gold thread was gold wire. |
| GOLD TISSUE |
fabrics |
Very soft and luxurious,
transparent metal cloth consisting of metal warp in gold
colour and silk or synthetic weft |
Very soft and luxurious,
transparent metal cloth consisting of metal warp in gold
colour and silk or synthetic weft. Used mainly for evening
dresses, saris, etc. |
| GOOD COLOUR COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
An intermediate
shade of cotton, between white and creamy |
An intermediate
shade of cotton, between white and creamy. If too creamy,
the term 'buttery' used; if too white, the term 'blue
cotton' applies. |
| GOODS RATIO |
processes, operations |
See Liquor: goods
ratio. |
See Liquor: goods
ratio. |
| GORE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A wedge-shaped
piece of cloth inserted into a garment |
A wedge-shaped
piece of cloth inserted into a garment to obtain width
at a specific place. |
| GORED SKIRT |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A skirt with a
panel inserted |
A skirt with a
panel inserted |
| GORGE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The neck run of
the forepart to which the collar is joined. |
The neck run of
the forepart to which the collar is joined. |
| GORGE SEAM |
seams, stitches |
The seam joining
the forepart to the collar. |
The seam joining
the forepart to the collar. |
| GOSSAMER |
fabrics |
Very soft fine
silk gauze used for veils. |
Very soft fine
silk gauze used for veils. |
| GOSSYPIUM |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The generic name
of the cotton plant. |
The generic name
of the cotton plant. |
| GOUT |
defects |
Fabric defect |
Fabric defect.
Foreign matter woven into a fabric by accident, usually
lint or waste, caused by fly and waste dropping into the
loom during weaving, or being caught in yarns during spinning.
See also Slug |
| GRAB TEST |
general |
A method of determining
the tensile strength of a fabric. |
A method of determining
the tensile strength of a fabric. |
| GRADE |
general |
IN WARP KNITTING,
a term used to indicate the defect index evaluation of
fabric determined by the number of defects per unit |
1. IN WARP KNITTING,
a term used to indicate the defect index evaluation of
fabric determined by the number of defects per unit, for
example per pound, per linear yard, or per square yard.
2. IN WOOL AND MOHAIR, a numerical designation used in
classifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-processed,
and processed forms based on average fibre diameter and
variation of fibre diame-ter. |
| GRADING |
processes, operations |
In textile testing,
the symbol for any step of a multistep standard reference
scale for a quality characteristic. |
In textile testing,
the symbol for any step of a multistep standard reference
scale for a quality characteristic. The grade is assigned
to test specimens exhibiting a degree of the quality comparable
to that step of the standard. Numerical grades assigned
to different specimens from a sample or by different observers
are commonly averaged. Terminology for grading process:
Five grades, usually with intermediate decimal half grades
are provided for most subjectively graded characteristics
ranging from Grade 5, High, to Grade 1, Low. A grade lower
than 1 is seldom of interest, but it may be designated
Grade 0 |
| GRADUATED CHECKS |
fabrics |
A pattern for checked
in which the component stripes are graduated in size from
small to large. |
A pattern for checked
in which the component stripes are graduated in size from
small to large. |
| GRAIN |
fabrics |
Grain of the fabric
| | |