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GABERDINE fabrics Traditionally it was a fine quality wool fabric showing clear prominent steep sloping twill with a prominent rib on the face and a flat back. Always has more warp than weft. Long floats make the diagonal lines, and there are short floats between the wales. Traditionally it was a fine quality wool fabric showing clear prominent steep sloping twill with a prominent rib on the face and a flat back. Always has more warp than weft. Long floats make the diagonal lines, and there are short floats between the wales. Fabric is lightweight and, due to the close weave and steep slope of the rib, gaberdine (especially gaberdine worsted) is amazingly water repellent. Other fibres used include cotton, viscose, wool, silk, polyester and cotton. The steep twill is obtained by setting the warp yarns closely together, and opening the weft yarn spacing. The face twills are made prominent by arranging the loom so that warp yarns on the back of the cloth are pulled together than those on the face. The 2/2 twill is the standard weave, but the 2/1 twill is also used. Union gaberdines are made using a worsted wool warp and a cotton weft. The special construction hides the weft almost completely. Very fine construction can be used in all cotton gaberdines and fabrics of staple fibre rayon are also made. Whilst it is primarily a rainwear fabric gaberdine is made in a variety of weights, constructions and colours for dress and suiting use; some of the cotton dress styles are made in a drill (3/1) weave.
GAGE general See Gauge. See Gauge.
GAGING THREAD accessories A heavy thread temporarily woven near the edge of a fabric. A heavy thread temporarily woven near the edge of a fabric. It is withdrawn, after weaving, leaving the filling threads forming a loop selvedge. Similar to Catch cord.
GAIT fibers, filaments, yarns, apparatus, equipage, tools, processes, operations IN FLAX. A large handful of loose, pulled flax, stood up on end in a cone form to dry. 1. IN FLAX. A large handful of loose, pulled flax, stood up on end in a cone form to dry.
2. IN LACE MACHINES.
(a) The distance between the centres of adjacent comb blades.
(b) A measure of the distance over which a thread is moved, e.g. 'two gaits' means 'across two spaces'.
3. IN WEAVING.
(a) Also called Gait-up, Gaiting. General term used to describe the positioning of the warp, healds, and reed in the loom, in readiness for weaving. Where drop wires are inserted on the warp during warp preparation, gaiting also includes the positioning of the drop wires in the loom. See also Loom-ing.
(b) A full repeat of the draft in the healds, or in case of jacquard, in one complete row of the har-ness.
GAIT UP processes, operations See Gait See Gait
GAIT-OVER fabrics A complete repeat design in dobby weave. A complete repeat design in dobby weave.
GAITING processes, operations See Gait and Gating See Gait and Gating
GALA TWILL fabrics A four up, four down, twill weave. A four up, four down, twill weave.
GALATEA fabrics Cotton fabric in twill weave, made plain, or in simple stripe patterns Cotton fabric in twill weave, made plain, or in simple stripe patterns, for nurses' uniforms, children's clothes, linings. Is given a hard lustrous finish, which repels dirt
GALLOON accessories Ribbon used as a band on men's hats, and as a binding on ladies' court shoes 1. Ribbon used as a band on men's hats, and as a binding on ladies' court shoes; the metallic ones used to decorate uniforms.
2. Any narrow fabric used for trimming.
GALLOON LACE fabrics Lace fabric with a finished scalloped edge on both sides Lace fabric with a finished scalloped edge on both sides. See also Banded laces.
GAPING defects Fabric defect in crêpe goods, caused by irregular shrinkage of the yarns. Fabric defect in crêpe goods, caused by irregular shrinkage of the yarns. An uneven twist in the yarn causes the irregular shrinkage, resulting in gaping or uneven closing of threads.
GARANCINE processes, operations A style of maroon to red-brown prints A style of maroon to red-brown prints produced by treating the madder root with sulphuric acid.
GARMENT garments, made-ups, assemblies A shaped article of textile fabric, or other flexible sheet material, intended to cover portions of the human body. A shaped article of textile fabric, or other flexible sheet material, intended to cover portions of the human body.
Garments may be grouped as: Activewear, Blouses, Bottoms, Bridal, Dresses, Dress shirts, Foundations, Hosiery, Outerwear, Pyjamas, Robes, Skirts, Sleepwear, Sport coats Sport shirts, Suits, Sweaters, Swimwear, Tailored clothing, Underwear, Uniforms, Workwear, Tops, etc.
GARMENT BLANK garments, made-ups, assemblies See Knitted blank. See Knitted blank.
GARMENT DEFECTS defects Critical, Garment manufacturing involves many varied operations and a very large number of operators. Operations, with some exceptions, are largely controlled by the operator and not machine-controlled. Fabric types and garment styles are being increasingly diversified in a great way. Methods, trimmings and machinery are being continual changed. All these facts may contribute to garment defects of varied type, size and intensity.
Assessment/Assortment of garment defects:
The garment defects are, generally, classified for the purpose of evaluation, into:
Critical defects in garment: Defects, which could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for indi-viduals using or maintaining the product as well as defects contravening the legal regulations.
Major defects in garment: Functional defects reducing the usability or the expected life-time of the product as well as obvious visual defects reducing the sales-value of the product or making it un-saleable.
Minor defects in garment: Minor visual defects
GARMENT DEFECTS, CLASSIFIED defects Garment defects, classified according to the various manufacturing stages Garment defects, classified according to the various manufacturing stages are:
Pattern defects in garment:
Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker did not include the correct number of parts.
Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labelled, resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts.
Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped fabrics.
Not all patterns facing in same direction (either way) on a one-way fabric.
Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.
Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.
Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze the pattern into a smaller space for economising the fabric. Marking back from miniature markers also can cause trouble unless the miniature marker making is in the hands of experienced operators. Alternatively the full size pattern may be having worn out edges.
Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in components being sewn together with puckering and pleating.
When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of the lay get cut with bits missing.
Not enough knife clearance freedom.
Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are not matching.
Wrong check boxing, i.e. checks are not showing a full or partial box across the seam.
Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.
Spreading defects in garment:
Not enough plies to cover quantity of garments required.
Plies misaligned, resulting in garment parts getting cut with bits missing in some plies at the edge of the spread.
Narrow fabric, causes garment parts at the edge of the lay getting cut with bits missing.
Incorrect tension of plies, i.e. fabric spread too tight or too loose. This will result in parts not fitting in sewing, and finished garments not meeting size tolerances.
Not all plies facing in correct direction (whether 'one way' as with nap, or 'one way either way' as with some check designs). This happens when fabric is not spread face down, face up, or face to face as re-quired.
Unacceptable damages in the garment parts.
Parts not fully included owing to splicing errors.
Spread distorted by the attraction or repulsion of plies caused by excessive static electricity.
Plies are not spread accurately one above another for cutting. This results in mismatching checks.
Cutting defects in garment:
Inaccurate cutting. Failure to follow the marker lines resulting in distorted garment parts. Top and bot-tom plies can be a different size if the straight knife is allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high a spread.
Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow, angled, omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric.
Drill marks, which are misplaced, wrong drill to suit fabric, omitted, not perpendicular through the spread.
Frayed edges, scorched or fused edges, caused by a faulty knife, not sharp enough, or rotating at too high a speed.
Knife cut. Garment part damaged by careless use of knife, perhaps overrunning cutting previous piece.
Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread. Garment parts have bits missing at edge of lay. If too tight or too loose then garment parts are distorted.
Slits opened inaccurately or omitted.
Sewing preparation defects in garment:
Mixed plies resulting in shaded garment parts, when assembled.
Mixed size parts.
Parts missing.
Work tickets, coupon payment tickets or progress tickets omitted, misplaced or mixed.
Shade marking by pencil or machine too dark, too light, showing through, illegible or wrong side of fab-ric.
Ink stains.
Adhesive shade marking tickets falling off or sticking too hard, omitted, misplaced, wrongly numbered.
Sewn on shade marking tickets falling off, damaging fabric, omitted, misplaced, wrongly numbered.
Wrong size, wrong shade, wrong type of trimmings put in bundle.
Bundles or boxes not stacked in numerical order (where this is significant).
Parts not stacked in correct order in box, or rolled in correct order in bundle; or rolled or folded too tightly causing creases.
Sewing defects in garment:
Holes, picked threads, ruptured thread on the fabric, caused by wrong size or type of needle, blunt needle, needle heat or machine feeding difficulty.
Feed damage, particularly on thicker or sheer fabrics, or when machine cover transverse seams, arising from incorrect type of teeth, excessive pressure by foot, improper alignment of feed and foot, damaged throat plate, excessive machine speed.
Skipped stitches from the hook irregularly failing to pick up the loop of thread from the needle's eye ow-ing to a number of reasons.
Thread breaks, arising from too thick a thread for the needle, too thin a thread, needle heat, operator working unrythmically, too tight tensions and so on.
Broken stitches, arising from wrong stitch type, too tight tensions, a badly formed join in the seam where the second line of stitch runs over the first and cracks it, sharp feeds, too great a pressure and so on.
Seam grin, arising from too loose a tension or too large a stitch, or use of wrong stitch type.
Seam pucker, because of incorrect handling by the operator, misaligned notches, tight thread tensions and so on.
Pleated seams, an excessive form of seam puckering, or where operator failed to ease in fullness evenly.
Wrong stitch density; too many gives rise to jamming and rupture of fabric threads; too few to grinning or weak seams.
Uneven stitch density. Operator causes machine to snatch and does not allow machine to control fabric.
Staggered stitch, from faulty feed motion, incorrect needle and other machine parts.
Improperly formed stitches, caused by bad tension, incorrectly adjusted timing, ill-fitting machine com-ponents.
Oil spots or stains.
Seaming defects in garment: Usually caused by errors arising from the interaction of operator and machine in the handling of the garment.
Incorrect or uneven width of inlay, arising from bad handling by operator, incorrectly set guide, incor-rectly adjusted folder. In extreme cases the burst open raw edges show, slippage of weave threads oc-curs, or notches are exposed.
Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line, (sometimes called 'run offs') in top stitching, arising from lack of or badly set guide, not following a mark, or incorrect handling.
Insecure back stitching, because subsequent rows do not cover the first row of stitching.
Twisted seam leading to irregular puckering or the garment parts not hanging correctly when worn; caused by improper alignment of fabric parts, mismatched notches, and allowing one ply to creep against another.
Mismatched checks or stripes.
Mismatched seam, where transverse seams do not match (e.g. inside leg seams at the fork of trousers).
Extraneous part caught in seam; an unrelated piece showing through the seam.
Reversed garment part, where part is sewn with face side opposite from specification; perhaps when the part cut for one side of a garment is sewn in the other, or when the whole garment is assembled in-side out.
Blind stitching showing on face side, or not securely caught on inside, arising from improperly adjusted bender.
Wrong seam type or stitch type used.
Wrong shade of thread used.
Automatic machine and attachments defects in garment:
Ragged or frayed edges, where knife attachments fail to cut efficiently.
Uncut buttonholes, buttonholes not securely caught on fabric edge, wrong size, not securely fastened off.
Untied stitches, where tying stitches on automatic machines fail to secure properly.
Uneven widths of piping, arising from incorrect selection or adjustment of folders.
Automatic thread trimmer failing to cut.
Housekeeping defects in garment:
Scissors or knife cut.
Tear.
Picked or pulled thread.
Hole, arising from faulty machine, faulty furniture, cigarette burn, etc.
Stains, biro ink, stamp ink, oil, dirt, food, human, bird, animal, rust, water and so on.
Thread ends not trimmed.
Shade marking tickets not removed from inside a lined garment.
Foreign bodies between lining and outer cloth, which can be felt or seen.
Incorrect label sewn on, or sewn on in wrong place.
Underpressing defects in garment:
Seams not fully pressed open, narrow plaits showing along part of seam on the outside of the garment.
Uneven edges or shapes (this may be an interaction between sewing and pressing.
Piping rolled the wrong way on an edge.
Permanent glaze, or a change in the shade or surface characteristics of the fabric.
Scorches or burns.
Creases incorrectly formed.
Misplaced creases.
Fullness not 'pressed away', ineffective moulding.
Fusing defects in garment:
Interlining not securely fused, owing to incorrect temperature or pressure, too short a time of fusing, or wrong choice of resin to suit fabric. What looks secure to the eye, or feels secure to the hand is not nec-essarily secure in wear, washing, or dry cleaning.
Strike through, where the resin is forced through the surface of the outer fabric.
Strike back, where the resin is forced through the back of the interlining.
Hard handle, arising from incorrect choice of resin backing cloth, or improperly adjusted fusing condi-tions of time, temperature and pressure.
Final pressing defects in garment:
Burned or scorched garments.
Water spots.
Gloss.
Flattened nap or surface.
Broken zips, buttons, etc.
Creases not correctly formed.
Fabric of finished garment not smooth, wrinkle free and showing its proper appearance.
Edges wavy and stretched, or thick and cockled.
Garments not thoroughly dried.
Pockets not smooth.
Lining shows pleats, creases, wrinkles, shine.
Garment not correctly mouled either in detail or in total silhouette.
Folding, packing and warehousing defects in garment:
Garment not folded to specifications.
Garment not folded with correct material, such as cardboard, tissue, polythene, etc.
Pins or folds in garment incorrectly positioned.
Garments not buttoned, zipped, or otherwise closed (or vice-versa).
Labels not showing where required.
Garment not correctly positioned in box.
Too many garments in box or hanging wardrobe (during delivery).
Hanging garments crushed and distorted in warehouse.
Garment deteriorated in warehouse through obsolescence, owing to improper turnover of stock, attacks by water, mould or animal agencies; degradation by sunlight.
GARMENT SIZING SYSTEM garments, made-ups, assemblies In garment construction, a method of designating garment sizes. In garment construction, a method of designating garment sizes. A selection of terms related to garment sizing are:
Acromion: In anatomy, that part of the shoulder blade located at the end of the spine, which articulates with the collarbone. See also 'shoulder joint', below.
Ankle: In anatomy, the joint between the foot and the lower leg.
Ankle girth: In body measurements, the circumference of the leg over the greatest prominence of the an-kle.
Arm length: In body measurements, with the arm bent at 90° and the clenched fist placed on the hip, the distance from the shoulder joint along the outside of the arm over the elbow to the greatest prominence on the outside of the wrist.
Armhole: In garment construction, the area of a garment through which the arm passes or into which a sleeve is fitted. The armhole is not necessarily the same shape or location as the armscye. (Compare 'Arm-scye'.)
Armpit: In anatomy, the hollow under the junction of the arm and the shoulder.
Armscye: In garment construction, the opening in a garment for attachment of a fitted sleeve. Armscye is a tailor's term for armhole. The opening follows a line passing over the shoulder joint, front- and back-break points and armpit area. (Compare'Armhole'.)
Armscye circumference: In body measurements, the body measurement with the arm hanging down, the distance from the shoulder joint through the front-break point, the armpit, the back-break point and to the starting point.
Back break-point: In anatomy, the location on the back of the body where the arm separates from the body.
Back width: Also called 'Cross back width'. In body measurements, the distance from back break point to back break point.
Body dimensions: In garment construction, a body measurement which can be used to build a sizing sys-tem or to select an appropriately sized garment. See also 'Sizing system'.
Body measurements: In anthropometry, body measurements are standardised distance between two specified points on the human anatomy. Body measurements generally are based on standardised values from statistical studies of large populations.
Bust: See 'Bust girth'.
Bust girth: Also called ''Bust', 'Full-bust girth'. In body measurements, the circumference of the body over the fullest part of the breasts and parallel to the floor. (Compare 'Chest girth'.)
Bust point to bust point: In body measurements, the distance across the front from the apex of one breast to the apex of the other.
Calf girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference around the leg between the knee and an-kle, parallel to the floor.
Centre back waist length: In body measurements, the vertical distance along the spine from the cervcale to the waist.
Centre front waist length: In body measurements, the vertical distance from the neck baseline at the cen-tre front to the waist level.
Cervicale to bust point: In body measurements, the distance from the cervicale around the base of the neck and down to the bust point.
Cervicale to wrist: In body measurements, with the arm bent, the distance from the cervicale to the shoul-der joints, along the outside of the arm, over the elbow to the greater prominence on the outside of the wrist.
Chest girth: Also called 'High-bust girth'. In body measurements, the circumference of the body over the shoulder blades, under the arms and across the upper chest. (Compare 'Bust girth'.)
Cross-back width: See 'Back width'.
Cross-chest width: In body measurements, the distance from front break point to the back-point.
Crotch: In anatomy, the body area adjacent to the vertex of the included angle between the legs.
Crotch height: See 'Inside-leg length'.
Crown: In anatomy, the top of the head.
Elbow: In anatomy, the joint which articulates between the upper arm and the lower arm.
Elbow girth: The body measurement with the arm straight, the circumference of the elbow.
Front Breakpoint: In anatomy, the location on the front of the body where the arm separates from the body.
Full Bust Girth: See 'Bust girth'.
Head girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference of the head above the ears.
Height: In body measurements, the vertical distance from the crown of standing subject to the soles of the feet. For persons unable to stand, height is measured while they are lying down.
High-bust girth: See 'Chest girth', above.
High-hip girth: In body measurements, the circumference of the body at a point approximately 7.5 cm be-low the waist and parallel to the floor. (Compare 'Hip girth'.)
Hip: In anatomy, the laterally projecting region formed by the lateral parts of the pelvis and the upper part of the femur together with the flesh covering them.
Hip girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference of the body at the level of maximum promi-nence of the buttocks.
Inside-leg length: Also called 'Crotch height'. In body measurements, the vertical distance from the crotch to the soles of the feet.
Knee: In anatomy, the joint between the lower and upper leg.
Knee girth: In body measurements, with the leg straight, the circumference of the knee over the kneecap and parallel to the floor.
Mid-neck girth: In body measurements, the circumference of the neck approximately 25 mm above the neck base. (Compare 'Neck base girth'.)
Mid-thigh girth: In body measurements, the circumference of the upper leg between the hip and the knee.
Outside-leg length: In body measurements, the distance from the side waist to the soles of the feet, follow-ing the curve of the body.
Scye depth: In body measurements, the distance from the cervicale to a point level with the armpit.
Shoulder joint: In anatomy, the juncture of the collarbone and the shoulder blade. The outer end of the col-larbone or clavicle pivots against the acromion which in turn pivots against the humerus or upper arm bone in the arm. These bones form the shoulder girdle. See 'Acromion', above.
Shoulder length: In body measurements, the distance from the side neck base to the armscye line at the shoulder joint.
Shoulder slope: In body measurements, the angle formed when the slant of the shoulder line deviates from the horizontal line that originates at the side neck base.
Sizing system: In garment construction, a method of designating garment sizes.
Thigh Girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference of the upper leg close to the crotch. (Compare 'Mid-thigh girth.)
Total crotch length: In body measurements, the distance from the waist level at centre front through the crotch to the waist level at centre back.
Total vertical trunk length: In body measurements, the distance from the right shoulder line midway be-tween the neck base and the shoulder joint, down the back through the crotch and over the projection of the right breast to the starting point.
Underarm Length: In body measurements, the body measurement with the arm down, the distance from the armpit to the midpoint on the inside of the wrist in line with the greatest prominence.
Upperarm girth: In body measurements, the maximum circumference of the arm usually midway between the elbow and the shoulder joint.
Upperarm length: In body measurements, with the arm bent, the distance from the shoulder joint along the outside of the arm to the prominence of the elbow.
Waist: In anatomy, the part of the body at the location between the lowest rib and hip identified by bending the body to the side.
Waist girth: In body measurements, the circumference of the waist immediately below the lowest rib.
Wrist: In anatomy, the joint which articulates between the end of the lower arm and the hand.
Wrist girth: In body measurements, the circumference over the prominence of the inner and outer forearm bones.
GARMENT TWIST defects A rotation, usually lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the release of latent stresses during laundering of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment A rotation, usually lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the release of latent stresses during laundering of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment. Twist may also be referred to as Torque or Spirality.
GARMENT-LENGTH KNITTING MACHINE apparatus, equipage, tools A knitting machine, most often the circular type A knitting machine, most often the circular type, used for the production of individual garment-panels in series, rather than for the continuous production of fabric.
GARNETT MACHINE apparatus, equipage, tools A type of carding machine A type of carding machine containing rollers and cylinders covered with saw-like metallic teeth, used for garnetting. See Garnetting.
GARNETTING processes, operations The breaking up of yarns and fabric (soft and hard wastes) to a fluffy, fibrous condition for reuse. The breaking up of yarns and fabric (soft and hard wastes) to a fluffy, fibrous condition for reuse.
GARTER BAND garments, made-ups, assemblies See After-welt. See After-welt.
GARTER WEBBING accessories An elastic narrow fabric, sometimes multicoloured, characterised by selvedges that form a frill on relaxation. An elastic narrow fabric, sometimes multicoloured, characterised by selvedges that form a frill on relaxation. It may also be a medium-strength elastic narrow fabric for supporting socks or stockings.
GARTER-STITCH seams, stitches Simple stitch done by hand or machine Simple stitch done by hand or machine, used in plain weft knitting.
GAS processes, operations See Singeing. See Singeing.
GAS FADING processes, operations See Atmospheric fading See Atmospheric fading
GAS FADING INHIBITOR ³ Chemicals applied to dyed acetate fabrics to inhibit gas fading. Chemicals applied to dyed acetate fabrics to inhibit gas fading.
GASSING processes, operations See Singeing See Singeing
GATHERING seams, stitches The shortening of fabric length by drawing together and holding a succession of small folds of material by stitching. The shortening of fabric length by drawing together and holding a succession of small folds of material by stitching. Machine gathering or Gauging is achieved by the use of a special presser foot or attachment
GATING processes, operations See Gait 1. IN WEAVING. See Gait.
2. IN KNITTING. Also called Gaiting. In knitting, the relative alignment of two sets of knitting ele-ments, e.g. needles, on knitting machines. Two forms of needle gaiting (rib and interlock), are common and may be interchangeable on the same machine. Types of gaiting are:
(a) Interlock gaiting: The opposed alignment of one set of needles with the other on a knitting ma-chine.
(b) Purl gaiting: The opposed alignment of tricks of two needle beds lying in the same plane, on a machine equipped with double-headed needles.
(c) Rib gaiting: The alternate alignment of one set of needles with the other on a machine equipped with two sets of needles arranged to knit rib fabrics
GAUARDS CHECK fabrics See under Checks See under Checks
GAUFRÉ processes, operations An effect produced on the surface of fabric, by pressing in hot calenders. An effect produced on the surface of fabric, by pressing in hot calenders. These produce designs in relief on the fabric, e.g. honeycomb-like, waffle-like, crimp-like, etc.
GAUGE general, apparatus, equipage, tools Sometimes called Gage. A standard measure of distance or dimension. Sometimes called Gage. A standard measure of distance or dimension.
1. IN KNITTING: Also called Cut.
(a) A measure of fineness expressing the number of needles per unit of width (across the wales).
The linear spacing of needles in the bed or bar of a knitting machine. Expressed as needles per inch, needles per 1.5 inch, or as a number of millimetres per 10 tricks (needle spaces). Imperial measure is commonly used worldwide.
(b) A term specifying a dimension, usually thickness, of the needles or other loop-forming elements of a knitting machine.
2. IN MULTI-POSITION MACHINES. Also called Pitch. The distance measured horizontally between spindles, drive drum centres, or adjacent yarns in a multi-position machine.
3. IN LACE MACHINES.
(a) A term specifying the comb spacing.
(b) A term traditionally specifying the number of needles per inch on warp lace machines.
4. In linking. A term specifying the spacing of points (gauge) in linking and point seaming ma-chines and expressed as the number of elements per unit of length.
5. GAUGE IN TUFTED PILE YARN FLOOR COVERING: The average distance between adjacent binding sites in the widthwise direction.
6. GAUGE IN TUFTING MACHINE: The average centerline distance between the needles.
7. IN SEWING. The distance between needles on a sewing machine.
8. GAUGE AS INSTRUMENT: An instrument for measuring the thickness of woven fabric
GAUGE, STITCH seams, stitches See Stitch gauge. See Stitch gauge.
GAUGING seams, stitches See under Gathering. See under Gathering.
GAUNTLET CUFF garments, made-ups, assemblies See under Cuff. See under Cuff.
GAUZ SYLPHIDE fabrics A fabric made by alternating strips of gauze and satin brocade ribbon, A fabric made by alternating strips of gauze and satin brocade ribbon, used mainly for women's clothing.
GAUZE fabrics Sheer, loosely woven, plain-weave fabric, made from cotton, silk, viscose, acetate. Sheer, loosely woven, plain-weave fabric, made from cotton, silk, viscose, acetate. May be soft and unfinished in appearance or it may be sized to add stiffness. Often used as a mounting fabric. Some open lacy gauze is made for curtains and drapes.
GAUZE WEAVING processes, operations A method of producing the simpler types of lightweight fabric by leno weave. A method of producing the simpler types of lightweight fabric by leno weave. The term is commonly used as a synonym for leno weave.
GDD general Abbreviation for 'Galvano, directly designed' screen in printing. Abbreviation for 'Galvano, directly designed' screen in printing. The screen mesh and the pattern are 'grown' on a mandrel at one and the same time.
GEAR CRIMPING processes, operations See under Texturing. See under Texturing.
GEL DYEING processes, operations A continuous tow dyeing method in which soluble dyes are applied to wet-spun fibres (e.g. acrylic for modacrylic fibres) in the gel state, A continuous tow dyeing method in which soluble dyes are applied to wet-spun fibres (e.g. acrylic for modacrylic fibres) in the gel state, i.e. after extrusion and coagulation, but before drawing and drying.
GELATIN FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns A remarkably shiny, man-made fibre. A remarkably shiny, man-made fibre. It used to be spun from a solution of gelatin and then treated with formaldehyde, making it insoluble in water. Used to develop gelatin silk, ultimately known as rayon. The fibre, however, never attained commercial significance.
GELATINISATION processes, operations The conversion of granular size to a viscous adhesive liquid. The conversion of granular size to a viscous adhesive liquid.
GENAPPE YARN fibers, filaments, yarns A gassed worsted yarn. See also Gassing. A gassed worsted yarn. See also Gassing.
GENERIC CLASS general A grouping having similar chemical compositions or specific chemical characteristics. A grouping having similar chemical compositions or specific chemical characteristics.
GENOA TWILL fabrics A three harness twill fabric. A three harness twill fabric.
GENOA VELVET fabrics Elaborate velvet of satin ground fabric with a multicoloured pile. Elaborate velvet of satin ground fabric with a multicoloured pile. Pile is sometimes left uncut.
GENTLE WASH CYCLE processes, operations Also called Delicate wash cycle Also called Delicate wash cycle. A wash cycle in which agitation is slow and time is reduced.
GEOGRID apparatus, equipage, tools A network of integrally connected tensile elements A network of integrally connected tensile elements used to reinforce and stabilise civil engineering structures.
GEOMEMBRANE apparatus, equipage, tools A barrier of very low permeability A barrier of very low permeability, which may or may not incorporate textile reinforcement, used to control flow of fluids.
GEORGETTE fabrics Filmy crêpe fabric, woven with very hard (highly) twisted 'S' and 'Z' yarns in both warp and weft and woven in a special crêpe weave. Filmy crêpe fabric, woven with very hard (highly) twisted 'S' and 'Z' yarns in both warp and weft and woven in a special crêpe weave. This combination gives a rather springy fabric, with strong crèpe effect and crisp handle. A difficult fabric to make up, but it drapes well. Plain or printed, and made from a variety of yarns including silk, wool, rayon, polyester, and nylon. Georgette does not crease readily and polyester georgette will hardly crease at all. Used for blouses, dresses (with lining), evening wear, over-dresses with opaque fabric beneath. It can be bonded to acetate locknit to improve the stability and make the fabric easier to use
GEOTEXTILES fabrics Any permeable textile materials used for filtration, drainage, separation, reinforcement and stabilisation purposes as an integral part of civil engineering structures on earth, rock or other constructional materials. Any permeable textile materials used for filtration, drainage, separation, reinforcement and stabilisation purposes as an integral part of civil engineering structures on earth, rock or other constructional materials.
GERM RESISTANT fabrics Fabrics treated with compounds to protect the wearer against fungi and germs. Fabrics treated with compounds to protect the wearer against fungi and germs.
GERMICIDAL AGENT ³ See Bacteriostat See Bacteriostat
GIG apparatus, equipage, tools A finishing machine containing teasels and used for raising a nap on a fabric. A finishing machine containing teasels and used for raising a nap on a fabric.
GIGGING processes, operations A fabric finishing operation in which surface fibres are raised to produce a nap or cover on the cloth. A fabric finishing operation in which surface fibres are raised to produce a nap or cover on the cloth. It is performed on cloth with teasels, which are the dried flower heads of a thistle plant, or with metallic substitute. The cloth is brought in to contact with teasels which cover the surface of a rotating cylinder.
GILDING processes, operations See Oxidised oil staining. See Oxidised oil staining.
GILLING processes, operations See Pin drafting See Pin drafting
GIMP accessories A core helically wrapped by one or more threads, resulting in a stiff cord. 1. A core helically wrapped by one or more threads, resulting in a stiff cord.
2. An upholstery trimming usually made wholly or partly from gimp as defined above.
3. A special thread used to support and raise the buttonhole stitching. Also used for embroidery
GIMP YARN fibers, filaments, yarns A type of fancy yarn. A type of fancy yarn. A compound yarn comprising a twisted core with an effect yarn wrapped around it so as to produce wavy projections on its surface. Generally speaking, gimp yarns display fairly regular semi-circular projections and loop yarns have well-formed circular loops.
GIN apparatus, equipage, tools A machine used for separating the cotton fibre from the seed. A machine used for separating the cotton fibre from the seed. The fibres are drawn through openings which are too small for seed to pass through
GIN CUT COTTON defects Cotton that has been damaged in ginning Cotton that has been damaged in ginning to the extent that its value is reduced.
GINGHAM fabrics Plain weave fabric made with dyed yarns balanced in strength, in stripes and checks in a wide variety of types and qualities. Plain weave fabric made with dyed yarns balanced in strength, in stripes and checks in a wide variety of types and qualities. White is always used with a colour. Usually cotton or polyester/cotton. It is a crisp and firm fabric, very hardwearing. Has excellent washing properties because very fast dyes are normally employed. Used for blouses, shirts, dresses, children's clothes, table clothes, napkins, and curtains. Very lightweight gingham type fabrics are known as Zephyrs.
GINNED LINT fibers, filaments, yarns Cotton fibres that have been separated from their seeds by ginning Cotton fibres that have been separated from their seeds by ginning but not subjected to any further processing after ginning.
GINNING processes, operations The mechanical process by which cotton fibres are separated from their seeds The mechanical process by which cotton fibres are separated from their seeds, quickly and efficiently to make the fibres available for textile use.
GIVE-WAY apparatus, equipage, tools A weak link inserted in a mechanism for safety reasons. A weak link inserted in a mechanism for safety reasons.
GIVRENE fabrics Silk, acetate or polyester fabric very similar in appearance to Grosgrain. Silk, acetate or polyester fabric very similar in appearance to Grosgrain. Made from a fairly loosely folded cotton weft and twist variations give a shimmer effect to the fabric because the ribs are not uniformly round and even. See Grosgrain.
GLACÉ BINDING fabrics See under Binding See under Binding
GLACÉ EFFECT fabrics See Changeable effect. See Changeable effect.
GLACÉ LEATHER fabrics Goatskin; soft and glossy. Goatskin; soft and glossy. Used mainly for shoes.
GLASS FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is glass. A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is glass.
Extremely fine filaments are spun from ordinary glass in its molten state. The extreme fineness of the filament gives the material necessary flexibility for making it into yarns and fabrics. Glass fibres are very strong, however, it has practically no stretch. Fabrics lack resistance to abrasion and flexing; the filaments break and the fabric becomes fibrous as the broken filament-ends stick out. Hence, glass is unsuitable for clothing, but its complete non-flammability, chemical resistance, ease of washing because of its complete lack of absorbency, and as they do not deteriorate with age have made it useful for curtain fabrics. Glass melts only at extremly high temperatures.
GLASS MINERAL WOOL fibers, filaments, yarns See Glass wool.. See Glass wool.
GLASS WOOL fibers, filaments, yarns A variety of glass fibre. Also called 'glass mineral wool'. A variety of glass fibre. It is incombustible. Principally used in heat and cold insulations and acoustical applications.
GLASS-CLOTH fabrics Plain-weave fabric made from twisted linen yarns, often woven in stripes or checks, but sometimes printed. Plain-weave fabric made from twisted linen yarns, often woven in stripes or checks, but sometimes printed. The medium weight fabric is made without any surface fuzz and is very durable. Used to make tea towels for drying glass and china. Cotton glass cloth is cheaper, but is not quite so effective for drying up as it becomes damp sooner, and does not wear as long as linen.
GLASS-RUBBER TRANSITION TEMPERATURE (Tg) general Temperature zone over which there is a reversible physical change Temperature zone over which there is a reversible physical change from a viscous or rubbery state to a brittle glassy state.
GLAUBER'S SALT ³ A dyeing assistant composed of hydrated sodium sulphate A dyeing assistant composed of hydrated sodium sulphate
GLAZE fabrics The finish such as shine, lustre, polish, etc., evident on some fabrics The finish such as shine, lustre, polish, etc., evident on some fabrics. Process utilises friction calendering, and ingredients used depend on type of fabric. On cotton it is usually produced by pressure rolls. A durable glaze finish will withstand several washings. Also stabilises the weave.
GLAZED CHINTZ fabrics Chintz fabric, which has been given a resin finish Chintz fabric, which has been given a resin finish, which is more permanent and will not wash out. See also Chintz
GLAZED THREAD fibers, filaments, yarns A thread which has been treated for lustre and smoothness A thread which has been treated for lustre and smoothness with a sizing applied in the finishing process.
GLAZING processes, operations Imparting a smooth, glossy, plane surface to a fabric, by using heat, heavy pressure, or friction. Imparting a smooth, glossy, plane surface to a fabric, by using heat, heavy pressure, or friction. Cotton fabrics such as chintz or tarlatan may be treated with chemicals and run through hot friction rollers to give them a smooth high polish. Durable finish can be produced by proper selection of chemicals and procedures.
GLEN URQUHART CHECK fabrics See under Checks. See under Checks.
GLEN URQUHART PLAID fabrics Name comes from a Scottish clan. This fabric is also sometimes called Overplaid, because the blocks of check weave are arranged at right angles, and then there is a larger outline check effect over this, often in another colour. Name comes from a Scottish clan. This fabric is also sometimes called Overplaid, because the blocks of check weave are arranged at right angles, and then there is a larger outline check effect over this, often in another colour. May be wool or worsted and is made in various weights, from light suiting to overcoating. An ornate plaid, used for golfing clothes, cloaks, men's sporting hats and overcoats. See also Glen urquhart check under Checks
GLENCARRY fabrics, garments, made-ups, assemblies An English tweed cloth made from woollen yarns of the hit or miss type 1. FABRIC. An English tweed cloth made from woollen yarns of the hit or miss type and contains some so-called waste stock and low quality fibres.
2. GARMENT. The term is also used to describe a cape-overcoat and sometimes a Scotch cap
GLENSHEE fabrics Plain-weave fabric made from mercerised cotton or linen, in a wide variety of weights and used for all types of embroidery. Plain-weave fabric made from mercerised cotton or linen, in a wide variety of weights and used for all types of embroidery.
GLENSHEE CRASH fabrics Rough, uneven plain-weave fabric of equal quantities of cotton and linen fibre. Rough, uneven plain-weave fabric of equal quantities of cotton and linen fibre. Used mainly for curtains and loose covers and as a base for embroidery.
GLIDING processes, operations See under Oxidised oil staining See under Oxidised oil staining
GLISSADE fabrics Closely woven satin-weave cotton fabric that is polished in finishing. Closely woven satin-weave cotton fabric that is polished in finishing. Is made in plain colours, an uninteresting fabric used only where cotton lining is needed.
GLORIA fabrics Strong, firm, plain weave cotton, silk or nylon fabric. Strong, firm, plain weave cotton, silk or nylon fabric. Is very closely woven and very lightweight, in plain, twill or satin weave. Used for covering umbrellas as when stretched taut, it is water repellent.
GLORIA SUEDE fabrics Firm heavy suede fabric for jackets and coats. Firm heavy suede fabric for jackets and coats.
GLOSS general See Specular gloss. See Specular gloss.
GLOVE garments, made-ups, assemblies A covering for the hand, often extending part way up the arm. See also Dress glove. A covering for the hand, often extending part way up the arm. See also Dress glove.
GLOVE SILK fabrics Fine warp-knit silk made in basic colours and used mainly for glove lining Fine warp-knit silk made in basic colours and used mainly for glove lining, although it was once also used for lingerie
GLOW general Visible flameless combustion of the solid phase of a material. Visible flameless combustion of the solid phase of a material. See Afterglow and Smouldering.
GLOWING COMBUSTION processes, operations Combustion of a material in the solid phase without flame but with emission of light from the combustion zone Combustion of a material in the solid phase without flame but with emission of light from the combustion zone
GLUED SEAM seams, stitches A seam formed seam by an adhesive. A seam formed seam by an adhesive.
GO-THROUGH MACHINE apparatus, equipage, tools See under Lace machines. See under Lace machines.
GODET garments, made-ups, assemblies A triangular insert of material used in dressmaking and glove making. A triangular insert of material used in dressmaking and glove making.
GOFFER processes, operations A process by which fabrics are given a fluted, crimped, tucked, or raised-relief appearance by means of heat and pressure. A process by which fabrics are given a fluted, crimped, tucked, or raised-relief appearance by means of heat and pressure. Used on yarn or fabric.
GOLD THREAD fibers, filaments, yarns A core yarn formed by twisting or spiralling thin filaments of gold on a central yarn of silk, cotton, man-made fibres, etc. A core yarn formed by twisting or spiralling thin filaments of gold on a central yarn of silk, cotton, man-made fibres, etc. 'Pure gold' thread consists of a fine silver wire covered with a gold film and 'Lyons gold thread' is copper wire covered with a gold film. Originally gold thread was gold wire.
GOLD TISSUE fabrics Very soft and luxurious, transparent metal cloth consisting of metal warp in gold colour and silk or synthetic weft Very soft and luxurious, transparent metal cloth consisting of metal warp in gold colour and silk or synthetic weft. Used mainly for evening dresses, saris, etc.
GOOD COLOUR COTTON fibers, filaments, yarns An intermediate shade of cotton, between white and creamy An intermediate shade of cotton, between white and creamy. If too creamy, the term 'buttery' used; if too white, the term 'blue cotton' applies.
GOODS RATIO processes, operations See Liquor: goods ratio. See Liquor: goods ratio.
GORE garments, made-ups, assemblies A wedge-shaped piece of cloth inserted into a garment A wedge-shaped piece of cloth inserted into a garment to obtain width at a specific place.
GORED SKIRT garments, made-ups, assemblies A skirt with a panel inserted A skirt with a panel inserted
GORGE garments, made-ups, assemblies The neck run of the forepart to which the collar is joined. The neck run of the forepart to which the collar is joined.
GORGE SEAM seams, stitches The seam joining the forepart to the collar. The seam joining the forepart to the collar.
GOSSAMER fabrics Very soft fine silk gauze used for veils. Very soft fine silk gauze used for veils.
GOSSYPIUM fibers, filaments, yarns The generic name of the cotton plant. The generic name of the cotton plant.
GOUT defects Fabric defect Fabric defect. Foreign matter woven into a fabric by accident, usually lint or waste, caused by fly and waste dropping into the loom during weaving, or being caught in yarns during spinning. See also Slug
GRAB TEST general A method of determining the tensile strength of a fabric. A method of determining the tensile strength of a fabric.
GRADE general IN WARP KNITTING, a term used to indicate the defect index evaluation of fabric determined by the number of defects per unit 1. IN WARP KNITTING, a term used to indicate the defect index evaluation of fabric determined by the number of defects per unit, for example per pound, per linear yard, or per square yard.
2. IN WOOL AND MOHAIR, a numerical designation used in classifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-processed, and processed forms based on average fibre diameter and variation of fibre diame-ter.
GRADING processes, operations In textile testing, the symbol for any step of a multistep standard reference scale for a quality characteristic. In textile testing, the symbol for any step of a multistep standard reference scale for a quality characteristic. The grade is assigned to test specimens exhibiting a degree of the quality comparable to that step of the standard. Numerical grades assigned to different specimens from a sample or by different observers are commonly averaged. Terminology for grading process: Five grades, usually with intermediate decimal half grades are provided for most subjectively graded characteristics ranging from Grade 5, High, to Grade 1, Low. A grade lower than 1 is seldom of interest, but it may be designated Grade 0
GRADUATED CHECKS fabrics A pattern for checked in which the component stripes are graduated in size from small to large. A pattern for checked in which the component stripes are graduated in size from small to large.
GRAIN fabrics Grain of the fabric