| GABERDINE |
Traditionally it
was a fine quality wool fabric showing clear prominent
steep sloping twill with a prominent rib on the face and
a flat back. Always has more warp than weft. Long floats
make the diagonal lines, and there are short floats between
the wales. |
| GAGE |
See Gauge. |
| GAGING THREAD |
A heavy thread
temporarily woven near the edge of a fabric. |
| GAIT |
IN FLAX. A large
handful of loose, pulled flax, stood up on end in a cone
form to dry. |
| GAIT UP |
See Gait |
| GAIT-OVER |
A complete repeat
design in dobby weave. |
| GAITING |
See Gait and Gating |
| GALA TWILL |
A four up, four
down, twill weave. |
| GALATEA |
Cotton fabric in
twill weave, made plain, or in simple stripe patterns |
| GALLOON |
Ribbon used as
a band on men's hats, and as a binding on ladies' court
shoes |
| GALLOON LACE |
Lace fabric with
a finished scalloped edge on both sides |
| GAPING |
Fabric defect in
crêpe goods, caused by irregular shrinkage of the
yarns. |
| GARANCINE |
A style of maroon
to red-brown prints |
| GARMENT |
A shaped article
of textile fabric, or other flexible sheet material, intended
to cover portions of the human body. |
| GARMENT BLANK |
See Knitted blank. |
| GARMENT DEFECTS |
Critical, |
| GARMENT DEFECTS,
CLASSIFIED |
Garment defects,
classified according to the various manufacturing stages |
| GARMENT SIZING
SYSTEM |
In garment construction,
a method of designating garment sizes. |
| GARMENT TWIST |
A rotation, usually
lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting
from the release of latent stresses during laundering
of the woven or knitted fabric forming the garment |
| GARMENT-LENGTH
KNITTING MACHINE |
A knitting machine,
most often the circular type |
| GARNETT MACHINE |
A type of carding
machine |
| GARNETTING |
The breaking up
of yarns and fabric (soft and hard wastes) to a fluffy,
fibrous condition for reuse. |
| GARTER BAND |
See After-welt. |
| GARTER WEBBING |
An elastic narrow
fabric, sometimes multicoloured, characterised by selvedges
that form a frill on relaxation. |
| GARTER-STITCH |
Simple stitch done
by hand or machine |
| GAS |
See Singeing. |
| GAS FADING |
See Atmospheric
fading |
| GAS FADING INHIBITOR |
Chemicals applied
to dyed acetate fabrics to inhibit gas fading. |
| GASSING |
See Singeing |
| GATHERING |
The shortening
of fabric length by drawing together and holding a succession
of small folds of material by stitching. |
| GATING |
See Gait |
| GAUARDS CHECK |
See under Checks |
| GAUFRÉ |
An effect produced
on the surface of fabric, by pressing in hot calenders. |
| GAUGE |
Sometimes called
Gage. A standard measure of distance or dimension. |
| GAUGE, STITCH |
See Stitch gauge. |
| GAUGING |
See under Gathering. |
| GAUNTLET CUFF |
See under Cuff. |
| GAUZ SYLPHIDE |
A fabric made by
alternating strips of gauze and satin brocade ribbon, |
| GAUZE |
Sheer, loosely
woven, plain-weave fabric, made from cotton, silk, viscose,
acetate. |
| GAUZE WEAVING |
A method of producing
the simpler types of lightweight fabric by leno weave. |
| GDD |
Abbreviation for
'Galvano, directly designed' screen in printing. |
| GEAR CRIMPING |
See under Texturing. |
| GEL DYEING |
A continuous tow
dyeing method in which soluble dyes are applied to wet-spun
fibres (e.g. acrylic for modacrylic fibres) in the gel
state, |
| GELATIN FIBRE |
A remarkably shiny,
man-made fibre. |
| GELATINISATION |
The conversion
of granular size to a viscous adhesive liquid. |
| GENAPPE YARN |
A gassed worsted
yarn. See also Gassing. |
| GENERIC CLASS |
A grouping having
similar chemical compositions or specific chemical characteristics. |
| GENOA TWILL |
A three harness
twill fabric. |
| GENOA VELVET |
Elaborate velvet
of satin ground fabric with a multicoloured pile. |
| GENTLE WASH CYCLE |
Also called Delicate
wash cycle |
| GEOGRID |
A network of integrally
connected tensile elements |
| GEOMEMBRANE |
A barrier of very
low permeability |
| GEORGETTE |
Filmy crêpe
fabric, woven with very hard (highly) twisted 'S' and
'Z' yarns in both warp and weft and woven in a special
crêpe weave. |
| GEOTEXTILES |
Any permeable textile
materials used for filtration, drainage, separation, reinforcement
and stabilisation purposes as an integral part of civil
engineering structures on earth, rock or other constructional
materials. |
| GERM RESISTANT |
Fabrics treated
with compounds to protect the wearer against fungi and
germs. |
| GERMICIDAL AGENT |
See Bacteriostat |
| GIG |
A finishing machine
containing teasels and used for raising a nap on a fabric. |
| GIGGING |
A fabric finishing
operation in which surface fibres are raised to produce
a nap or cover on the cloth. |
| GILDING |
See Oxidised oil
staining. |
| GILLING |
See Pin drafting |
| GIMP |
A core helically
wrapped by one or more threads, resulting in a stiff cord. |
| GIMP YARN |
A type of fancy
yarn. |
| GIN |
A machine used
for separating the cotton fibre from the seed. |
| GIN CUT COTTON |
Cotton that has
been damaged in ginning |
| GINGHAM |
Plain weave fabric
made with dyed yarns balanced in strength, in stripes
and checks in a wide variety of types and qualities. |
| GINNED LINT |
Cotton fibres that
have been separated from their seeds by ginning |
| GINNING |
The mechanical
process by which cotton fibres are separated from their
seeds |
| GIVE-WAY |
A weak link inserted
in a mechanism for safety reasons. |
| GIVRENE |
Silk, acetate or
polyester fabric very similar in appearance to Grosgrain. |
| GLACÉ BINDING |
See under Binding |
| GLACÉ EFFECT |
See Changeable
effect. |
| GLACÉ LEATHER |
Goatskin; soft
and glossy. |
| GLASS FIBRE |
A manufactured
fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is glass. |
| GLASS MINERAL WOOL |
See Glass wool.. |
| GLASS WOOL |
A variety of glass
fibre. |
| GLASS-CLOTH |
Plain-weave fabric
made from twisted linen yarns, often woven in stripes
or checks, but sometimes printed. |
| GLASS-RUBBER TRANSITION
TEMPERATURE (Tg) |
Temperature zone
over which there is a reversible physical change |
| GLAUBER'S SALT |
A dyeing assistant
composed of hydrated sodium sulphate |
| GLAZE |
The finish such
as shine, lustre, polish, etc., evident on some fabrics |
| GLAZED CHINTZ |
Chintz fabric,
which has been given a resin finish |
| GLAZED THREAD |
A thread which
has been treated for lustre and smoothness |
| GLAZING |
Imparting a smooth,
glossy, plane surface to a fabric, by using heat, heavy
pressure, or friction. |
| GLEN URQUHART CHECK |
See under Checks. |
| GLEN URQUHART PLAID |
Name comes from
a Scottish clan. This fabric is also sometimes called
Overplaid, because the blocks of check weave are arranged
at right angles, and then there is a larger outline check
effect over this, often in another colour. |
| GLENCARRY |
An English tweed
cloth made from woollen yarns of the hit or miss type |
| GLENSHEE |
Plain-weave fabric
made from mercerised cotton or linen, in a wide variety
of weights and used for all types of embroidery. |
| GLENSHEE CRASH |
Rough, uneven plain-weave
fabric of equal quantities of cotton and linen fibre. |
| GLIDING |
See under Oxidised
oil staining |
| GLISSADE |
Closely woven satin-weave
cotton fabric that is polished in finishing. |
| GLORIA |
Strong, firm, plain
weave cotton, silk or nylon fabric. |
| GLORIA SUEDE |
Firm heavy suede
fabric for jackets and coats. |
| GLOSS |
See Specular gloss. |
| GLOVE |
A covering for
the hand, often extending part way up the arm. See also
Dress glove. |
| GLOVE SILK |
Fine warp-knit
silk made in basic colours and used mainly for glove lining |
| GLOW |
Visible flameless
combustion of the solid phase of a material. |
| GLOWING COMBUSTION |
Combustion of a
material in the solid phase without flame but with emission
of light from the combustion zone |
| GLUED SEAM |
A seam formed seam
by an adhesive. |
| GO-THROUGH MACHINE |
See under Lace
machines. |
| GODET |
A triangular insert
of material used in dressmaking and glove making. |
| GOFFER |
A process by which
fabrics are given a fluted, crimped, tucked, or raised-relief
appearance by means of heat and pressure. |
| GOLD THREAD |
A core yarn formed
by twisting or spiralling thin filaments of gold on a
central yarn of silk, cotton, man-made fibres, etc. |
| GOLD TISSUE |
Very soft and luxurious,
transparent metal cloth consisting of metal warp in gold
colour and silk or synthetic weft |
| GOOD COLOUR COTTON |
An intermediate
shade of cotton, between white and creamy |
| GOODS RATIO |
See Liquor: goods
ratio. |
| GORE |
A wedge-shaped
piece of cloth inserted into a garment |
| GORED SKIRT |
A skirt with a
panel inserted |
| GORGE |
The neck run of
the forepart to which the collar is joined. |
| GORGE SEAM |
The seam joining
the forepart to the collar. |
| GOSSAMER |
Very soft fine
silk gauze used for veils. |
| GOSSYPIUM |
The generic name
of the cotton plant. |
| GOUT |
Fabric defect |
| GRAB TEST |
A method of determining
the tensile strength of a fabric. |
| GRADE |
IN WARP KNITTING,
a term used to indicate the defect index evaluation of
fabric determined by the number of defects per unit |
| GRADING |
In textile testing,
the symbol for any step of a multistep standard reference
scale for a quality characteristic. |
| GRADUATED CHECKS |
A pattern for checked
in which the component stripes are graduated in size from
small to large. |
| GRAIN |
Grain of the fabric
is the relationship of its structural elements to vertical
and horizontal lines. |
| GRAIN LEATHER |
Term for all leather
that has had a finish applied to the right side. |
| GRAIN OF WHEAT
EFFECT |
See under Coronation
gimp. |
| GRAINY WEAVE |
A class of irregular,
broken weaves, e.g. Granite, Oatmeal. |
| GRANADA |
Old term meaning
'grained'; a fine worsted fabric with a face finish on
the right side. |
| GRANDRELLE FABRIC |
A term used for
a waterproof fabric |
| GRANDRELLE YARN |
A two-ply yarn
composed of singles of different colour or contrasting
lustre. |
| GRANITE |
A weave having
a satin base |
| GRANNIE CLOTH |
See Mummy cloth. |
| GRASS BLEACHING |
The bleaching of
cotton or linen |
| GRASS CLOTH |
A broad classification
for lustrous, plain weave fabrics made of ramie, flax,
hemp, nettle fibre, etc. |
| GRASS LINEN |
See China-grass |
| GRASSING |
See Crofting. |
| GRAVER |
See Burin. |
| GRAVURE PRINTING |
See Roller printing
and Intanglio |
| GRAY GOODS |
See preferred term,
Greige goods. |
| GRDUATED CHECKS |
A pattern for checked
in which the component stripes are graduated in size from
small to large. |
| GREASE DYEING |
A process in dyeing
serges and cotton warp woollen cloths without scouring
them first.
. |
| GREASE WOOL |
Wool, taken from
the living sheep |
| GRECIAN ALHAMBRA |
A figured quilting
fabric |
| GRECIAN WEAVE |
A weave based on
the counter-change principle |
| GREEN COTTON |
Immature cotton
which is unusually damp, because it has been picked before
the boll is ripe. |
| GREEN FLAX |
Also called Natural
flax. |
| GREEN LINEN |
A linen cloth woven
of unbleached, or green, yarn. |
| GREIGE GOODS |
Textile fabrics,
as they leave the loom or knitting-machine. Fabrics that
have received no bleaching, dyeing or finishing treatment |
| GREIGE STATE |
Unfinished, natural
fibre, yarn or fabric |
| GREIGE THREAD |
Undyed or unfinished
thread, usually sewing thread, |
| GREIGE YIELD |
The number of finished
square yards per pound (square metres per kilogram) of
greige fabric. |
| GRENADINE |
a loosely woven
gauze-type fabric. |
| GRENFELL CLOTH |
Closely woven reversible
twill, mainly used for raincoats, because the close twill
weave causes it to be water-repellent. |
| GREX |
An obsolete, direct
numbering system for expressing linear density, equal
to the mass in grams per 10,000 m of yarn, fibre, filament
or other textile strand. |
| GREY COTTON |
See under Stained
cotton. |
| GREY FELT |
A blend of white
fibres with naturally coloured or dyed fibres |
| GREY GOODS |
See preferred term,
Greige goods. |
| GREY SCALE |
A scale consisting
of pairs of standard grey chips |
| GREY SOURING |
A step in the process
of bleaching of cotton. |
| GREY WIDTH |
The width of the
fabric as it comes from the loom |
| GREYING |
Term used describe
the dingy appearance of a fabric that occurs in dry cleaning. |
| GRIFFE |
In jacquard mechanism,
the knife assembly |
| GRIN |
In sewn seams,
to stress a sewn seam so that the individual stitches
can be seen |
| GRINDING, RAG |
See Pulling, rag. |
| GRINNING |
The gap that forms,
when two components stitched together are pulled apart
laterally. |
| GRINNING THROUGH |
A defect in a compound
structure, e.g. a double cloth in which one fabric can
be seen through the other, as a result of bad cover. |
| GRINNY CLOTH |
Also called Hungry
cloth. |
| GRIPPER |
See Gripper-shuttle. |
| GRIPPER LOOM |
A loom, which uses
one or more grippers. |
| GRIPPER TAPE |
Also called Gripper
web |
| GRIPPER-SHUTTLE |
A device, which
grips one end of a weft yarn and tows it through the warp
shed. |
| GRIST |
See Count of yarn |
| GROS |
A term used to
describe thick heavy fabrics. |
| GROS DE LONDRES |
Cross-ribbed fabric
with alternating heavy and fine ribs, or ribs of different
colours. |
| GROSGRAIN |
Plain weave fine
fabric with prominent rounded ribs. |
| GROUND |
The basic part
of the fabric surrounding the figures or designs. |
| GROUND THREAD |
The single or ply
core yarn, which serves as the center (core) around which
novelty or fancy yarns are twisted |
| GROUND WARP |
A warp, which forms
the body of the cloth in pile fabrics, by interlacing
with the weft. |
| GROUNDNUT PROTEIN
FIBRE |
Fibre made from
groundnut. |
| GROUP FLOAT |
Weaving defect. |
| GROWN-ON |
The formation of
a facing by folding back the fabric edge. |
| GROWN-ON WAISTBAND |
See under Waistband. |
| GROWTH |
The dimensional
change resulting in an increase in the length or width
of a specimen. |
| GUANACO |
Hair from a small,
wild deer-like animal, with big brown eyes, from the llama
group of animals found in the Andes. |
| GUARD'S CHECK |
See under Checks |
| GUIDE HAIRS |
Fibres, which project
beyond the under-coat of some mammals. |
| GUIPURE LACE EMBROIDERY |
It is an openwork
lace composed of thick, heavy embroidered patterns, often
with quite large motifs |
| GUM |
See Sericin. |
| GUM ARABIC |
A colloidal substance
obtained from several species of Acacia plant |
| GUM WASTE |
Waste comprising
all broken silk threads |
| GUNCLUB CHECK |
Distinctive, sporty-looking
check wool fabric. |
| GUNNY |
See Bagging fabric. |
| GUT THREAD |
See Stuffer yarn |
| GYPSUM |
A chemical used
to size cotton goods; it is hydrous sulphate of calcium |
| GYPSY CLOTH |
See Flannelette. |
