| FABRIC |
fabrics |
An assembly of
fibres and/or yarns, which is generally in a sheet-like
form |
An assembly of
fibres and/or yarns, which is generally in a sheet-like
form. Also known as cloth. A planar structure consisting
of yarns or fibres.
There are different types of fabric based on their manufacturing
processes, mainly Woven, Knitted, Braided, Lace (or Net),
Felt and Non-woven |
| FABRIC AIR-CONDITIONING |
processes, operations |
A chemical process
in which short fuzzy fibres are sealed into a yarn or
are removed from the cloth to make the fabric more porous. |
A chemical process
in which short fuzzy fibres are sealed into a yarn or
are removed from the cloth to make the fabric more porous.
The strength of the fabric is not impaired. A porous fabric
permits a circulation of air and therefore is cooler. |
| FABRIC CONSTRUCTION |
fabrics |
The term describes
the organisation of components and in weaving it describes
the weave. |
Also called Fabric
structure. The term describes the organisation of components
and in weaving it describes the weave. |
| FABRIC COUNT |
fabrics |
See Count in fabric. |
See Count in fabric.. |
| FABRIC DESIGN |
fabrics |
See Design in fabrics. |
See Design in fabrics. |
| FABRIC DIP |
³ |
In tyre fabrics,
a chemical composition that is applied to a textile cord
or fabric to improve its adhesion to rubber compounds |
In tyre fabrics,
a chemical composition that is applied to a textile cord
or fabric to improve its adhesion to rubber compounds |
| FABRIC EXTENSION |
fabrics |
The amount by which
a fabric extends |
The amount by which
a fabric extends, usually under load and in the direction
of that load. |
| FABRIC FINISH |
processes, operations |
See Fabric finishing. |
See Fabric finishing. |
| FABRIC FINISHING |
processes, operations |
Chemical and other
treatments used to modify the fabric to make it more capable
of fulfilling its function |
Chemical and other
treatments used to modify the fabric to make it more capable
of fulfilling its function. The term is used to cover
all operations following bleaching, dyeing or printing.
Some of the important finishing processes are Calendering,
Brushing, Raising, Starching, etc. Other special finishes
have been devised to make a fabric more attractive, to
give it some desirable property it would not otherwise
possess, or to correct some defect in it. There are many
types of finishes, which alter the fabric appearance,
alter the handle of the fabric alter the draping quality
of the fabric, help the fabric to keep its size and shape
or make it more serviceable. |
| FABRIC LENGTH |
fabrics |
The distance from
one end of a fabric to the other |
The distance from
one end of a fabric to the other measured parallel to
the side edge of the fabric while it is under zero tension
and is free of folds or wrinkles. |
| FABRIC PERFORMANCE
CHARACTERISTICS |
fabrics |
The performance
specification requirements for fabrics, meant for various
end uses, are usually guided by the internationally approved
'Standard performance specifications'. |
The performance
specification requirements for fabrics, meant for various
end uses, are usually guided by the internationally approved
'Standard performance specifications'. Generally, the
main performance characteristics which, are tested on
fabrics are: Absorbency, Bow and skewness, Breaking strength
(in both directions), Bursting strength (in both directions),
Colourfastness to burnt gas fumes, Colourfastness to crocking,
Colourfastness to chlorinated pool water, Colourfastness
to dry-cleaning, Colourfastness to frosting (flat abrasion)m,
Colourfastness to laundering, Colourfastness to light,
Colourfastness to ozone, Colourfastness to perspiration,
Colourfastness to sea water, Colourfastness to solvent,
Colourfastness to water, Dimensional change to dry-cleaning,
Dimensional change to laundering, Dimensional change to
pressing, Distortion of yarn, Durability of back coating,
Fabric appearance rating, Flammability, Laundered appearance,
Light degradation, Non-fibrous material, Pilling resistance,
Retention of hand, Retention of character, Retention of
appearance, Soil release, Surface abrasion, Tear strength
(in both directions), Thermal transmittance, Water repellence,
Water resistance, Yarn distortion and yarn slippage resistance. |
| FABRIC PERFORMANCE
CRTS |
fabrics |
The performance
specification requirements for fabrics, meant for various
end uses, are usually guided by the internationally approved
'Standard performance specifications' |
The performance
specification requirements for fabrics, meant for various
end uses, are usually guided by the internationally approved
'Standard performance specifications'. Generally, the
main performance characteristics which, are tested on
fabrics are:
Absorbency
Bow and skewness
Breaking strength (in both directions)
Bursting strength (in both directions)
Colourfastness to burnt gas fumes
Colourfastness to crocking
Colourfastness to chlorinated pool water
Colourfastness to dry-cleaning
Colourfastness to frosting (flat abrasion)
Colourfastness to laundering
Colourfastness to light
Colourfastness to ozone
Colourfastness to perspiration
Colourfastness to sea water
Colourfastness to solvent
Colourfastness to water
Dimensional change to dry-cleaning
Dimensional change to laundering
Dimensional change to pressing
Distortion of yarn
Durability of back coating
Fabric appearance rating
Flammability
Laundered appearance
Light degradation
Non-fibrous material
Pilling resistance
Retention of hand
Retention of character
Retention of appearance
Soil release
Surface abrasion
Tear strength (in both directions)
Thermal transmittance
Water repellence
Water resistance
Yarn distortion
yarn slippage resistance |
| FABRIC PORES |
fabrics |
Orifices in the
fabric. |
Orifices in the
fabric. Open pores make for absorbency; when pores become
closed with soil, absorbency is affected. |
| FABRIC ROOF SYSTEM |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A system of coated
fabric or laminated fabric along with support cables |
A system of coated
fabric or laminated fabric along with support cables,
edge ropes, clamps, neoprene, roof drains, arch wear strips,
and anchor bolts that constitutes the outside top covering
of a building. |
| FABRIC SOFTNERS |
chemicals, textile
auxiliaries |
Chemical compounds
usually added to the final rinse, for improving the soft
feel of fabrics |
Chemical compounds
usually added to the final rinse, for improving the soft
feel of fabrics |
| FABRIC STABILITY |
fabrics |
In fabrics, the
property denoting the ability to resist slippage of yarn
segments in one direction over yarn segments in the opposite
direction. (Compare Stable fabric.) |
In fabrics, the
property denoting the ability to resist slippage of yarn
segments in one direction over yarn segments in the opposite
direction. (Compare Stable fabric.) |
| FABRIC STRETCH |
fabrics |
The increase in
length of a specimen of a fabric |
The increase in
length of a specimen of a fabric resulting from a load
applied under specified condi-tions. |
| FABRIC STRUCTURE |
fabrics |
See Fabric construction. |
See Fabric construction. |
| FABRIC WEIGHT |
fabrics |
Mass per unit area |
Mass per unit area
expressed in grams per square metre (ounces per square
yard), grams per linear metre (ounces per linear yard),
or inversely as meters per kilogram (linear yards per
pound), or square meters per kilogram (square yards per
pound).
FACE I That side of a fabric, which is intended to be
shown by reason of weave or finish, presents a better
appearance. In many fabrics, especially industrial ones
there are no distinction between face and back. |
| FABRIC WEIGHT CONVERSION
FORMULA |
fabrics |
See under Fabric
weight. |
See under Fabric
weight. |
| FABRIC WIDTH |
fabrics |
WIDTH OF A FABRIC.
It is the distance from the outer edge of one selvedge
to the outer edge of the other selvedge |
1. WIDTH OF A FABRIC.
It is the distance from the outer edge of one selvedge
to the outer edge of the other selvedge, measured perpendicular
to the selvedges while the fabrics is held under zero
tension and is free of folds and wrinkles.
2. WIDTH OF A FABRIC WOVEN ON A SHUTTLELESS LOOM. It is
the distance from the outer warp on one side to the outer
warp on the other side, measured perpendicular to the
warp yarns while the fab-ric is held under zero tension
and is free of folds and wrinkles.
3. WIDTH OF A CIRCULAR KNIT FABRIC. It twice the perpendicular
distance between the enclosed edges of a flattened tube
of fabric that is under zero tension and free of folds
or wrinkles.
3. WIDTH OF A FLAT KNIT FABRIC. It is the perpendicular
distance between the selvedges when the fabric is under
zero tension and free of folds or wrinkles.
5. WIDTH OF A RAISED-SURFACE FABRIC. It is the dimension
included within the outer limits of the nap or pile, but
excluding the selvedges, or as otherwise agreed upon by
the purchaser and seller |
| FABROGRAPHY |
processes, operations |
The science and
art of creating and printing designs on textiles |
The science and
art of creating and printing designs on textiles by use
of screens or stencils. The process may be manual or mechanical. |
| FACE |
fabrics |
That side of a
fabric, which is intended to be shown by reason of weave
or finish, presents a better appearance. |
That side of a
fabric, which is intended to be shown by reason of weave
or finish, presents a better appearance. In many fabrics,
especially industrial ones there are no distinction between
face and back. |
| FACE FABRIC |
fabrics |
See under Back-grey |
See under Back-grey |
| FACE FINISH |
processes, operations |
A finish, which
obscures weave and yarns by fulling and napping |
A finish, which
obscures weave and yarns by fulling and napping |
| FACE LOOP |
fabrics |
See under Knitted
loop. |
See under Knitted
loop. |
| FACE PLATE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In sewing machine,
the cover on the sewing-head end of the machine arm. |
In sewing machine,
the cover on the sewing-head end of the machine arm. |
| FACE SIDE |
fabrics |
Also called Right
side. |
Also called Right
side. The side of the textile material that is outward
in the completed object; i.e. the side of the fabric intended
to be shown whilst in wear. |
| FACED CLOTH |
fabrics |
Clothes, which
have a different weave (pile) or finish (nap) on the face
side as opposed to the reverse and are cut 'one-way'. |
Clothes, which
have a different weave (pile) or finish (nap) on the face
side as opposed to the reverse and are cut 'one-way'.
Smooth, plain weave fabric that is luxurious looking with
a nap on one side. Best quality face-cloth is wool but
others may be acrylic or viscose. The fabrics are made
in various weights. Used mainly for coats and jackets,
but inexpensive fabrics may be used for robes and dressing
gowns. |
| FACING |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The additional
piece of fabric attached to the upper surface of a garment. |
The additional
piece of fabric attached to the upper surface of a garment.
Usually used in knitted garments at the front joining
edges of cardigans and jackets, but also used to describe
the button-stands of neck openings of shirt style garments. |
| FACING RIBBON |
accessories |
See Faille ribbon. |
See Faille ribbon. |
| FACING SILK |
fabrics |
A fine lustrous
fabric of silk |
A fine lustrous
fabric of silk (usually of cord, satin, twill weave, or
barathea) used for facing, e.g. lapels in men's evening
wear. |
| FAÇONNÉ |
fabrics |
French for 'fancy
weave', but has come to describe the plain colour fabrics
of soft floppy crêpe with satin or taffeta effect
patterns. |
French for 'fancy
weave', but has come to describe the plain colour fabrics
of soft floppy crêpe with satin or taffeta effect
patterns. Designs are always small, often shiny on dull
background. Popular in the thirties when it was made of
silk or Artificial silk, it returned to popularity in
the late seventies, made from viscose, acetate, polyester
or mixtures. Used for blouses, soft dresses, evening wear |
| FAÇONNÉ
VELVET |
fabrics |
Patterned velvet
fabric of various fibres |
Patterned velvet
fabric of various fibres, with the pattern produced by
the burnt-out method of design. See Burnt out fabric |
| FADE-O-METER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A standard laboratory
device for evaluating a fabric's fastness of colour to
sunlight. |
A standard laboratory
device for evaluating a fabric's fastness of colour to
sunlight. Test specimens are revolved around a radiation
source of light (Carbon arc) simulating sun's rays, at
45° north latitude on a July day between the hours of
9.00 and 3.00. Fabrics tested are subjected to appropriate
periods of exposure, depending on end-use, and are rated
for resistance to exposure to sunlight. Ratings indicate
the degree of fading or change of colour. The xenon arc
approximates the spectral distribution of sunlight better
than any other lamp. . |
| FADING |
fabrics |
1. In fastness
testing, any change in the colour of a textile caused
by light or contaminants in the atmosphere, e.g. burnt-gas
fumes. 2. Colloquially, a reduction in depth or brightness
of colour of a textile, irrespective of cause. |
1. In fastness
testing, any change in the colour of a textile caused
by light or contaminants in the atmosphere, e.g. burnt-gas
fumes. 2. Colloquially, a reduction in depth or brightness
of colour of a textile, irrespective of cause. |
| FAG |
defects |
Fabric defect |
Fabric defect.
A coarse or rough spot in woven fabric. |
| FAGOT STITCH |
seams, stitches |
A form of lockstitch,
using a modified zigzag machine, used principally in the
corsetry industry, for joining material, allowing a narrow
gap between the two edges. |
A form of lockstitch,
using a modified zigzag machine, used principally in the
corsetry industry, for joining material, allowing a narrow
gap between the two edges. The machine performs a cycle
of three stitches, the first through one piece of material,
the second in the aperture, and the third through the
other piece of material. |
| FAILLE |
fabrics |
Plain weave fabric
with pronounced ribs across it |
Plain weave fabric
with pronounced ribs across it. The rib effect is produced
by setting the warp yarns very closely together and the
weft having yarns a little thicker than the warp and more
openly spaced (see Poplin). The ribs are coarser than
those of poplin and are slightly flattened in finishing.
Originally faille was a silk fabric but it is now made
from man-made filament yarns, such as acetate, viscose
or polyester and is used for dresses, light coats, wedding-gowns
linings and facings.
It creases easily. The softer fabrics drape well, but
faille is essentially for formal clothes that are not
subjected to hard wear. |
| FAILLE CRÊPE |
fabrics |
Smooth, rich fabric
resembling Crêpe de Chine, but heavier. |
Smooth, rich fabric
resembling Crêpe de Chine, but heavier. The fibre
may be silk, but is more usually synthetic. |
| FAILLE RIBBON |
accessories |
Also called Facing
ribbon. |
Also called Facing
ribbon. A double shot or ribbed plain-woven ribbon commonly
used to reinforce the button line of cardigans. |
| FAILLE TAFFETA |
fabrics |
Taffeta weave fabric
made from silk or synthetic fibres |
Taffeta weave fabric
made from silk or synthetic fibres but with a pronounced
crosswise rib effect that resembles faille. See also Taffeta |
| FAILURE |
general, defects |
An arbitrary point
beyond which a material ceases to be functionally capable
of its intended use. |
1. An arbitrary
point beyond which a material ceases to be functionally
capable of its intended use.
2. Sewing defect in sewn fabric seams. Fabric or sewing
thread rupture or seam (yarn) slippage |
| FAIR ISLE KNIT |
fabrics |
Knitted fabric
with coloured patterns resembling Fair Isle. |
Knitted fabric
with coloured patterns resembling Fair Isle. The fibre
is usually acrylic and the fabric has a great deal of
elasticity. It may be inclined to 'seat' or lose its shape
under strain, so garments are usually made in loose styles. |
| FAKE FUR |
fabrics |
See Fur fabric. |
See Fur fabric. |
| FAKE FURS |
fabrics |
Pile fabrics made
of cotton, man-made fibres, and blends |
Pile fabrics made
of cotton, man-made fibres, and blends used in woven or
knitted constructions to simulate animal fur. |
| FALL |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The section of
the collar between the crease and the leaf edge. |
The section of
the collar between the crease and the leaf edge. |
| FALL PLATE FABRIC |
fabrics |
A patterned fabric
made on a raschel warp-knitting machine |
A patterned fabric
made on a raschel warp-knitting machine using one needle
bar, involving the use of a solid metal plate (fall plate
or chopper bar) to push the newly formed laps of the pattern
bars down below the spoons of the open latches, to be
cast off with the ground loops of the previous course |
| FALL-ON EFFECT |
processes, operations |
In printing, two
colours of overlapping pattern |
In printing, two
colours of overlapping pattern, which results in a third
colour. It is thus possible to achieve a three-colour
print pattern with two print rollers. |
| FALLEN WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Dead wool. |
See Dead wool. |
| FALLS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The flap covering
the abdomen on certain types of breeches and trousers,
now uncommon |
The flap covering
the abdomen on certain types of breeches and trousers,
now uncommon. Whole or full falls have vents on either
side. Split falls, as on riding breeches, button halfway |
| FALSE REED |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A reed, used in
addition to an ordinary reed, to keep the threads of a
fibrous or high-sett warp separated. |
A reed, used in
addition to an ordinary reed, to keep the threads of a
fibrous or high-sett warp separated. |
| FALSE TWIST DIRECTION |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The direction,
S or Z, of twist generated by a false-twisting device
upstream of itself. |
The direction,
S or Z, of twist generated by a false-twisting device
upstream of itself. |
| FALSE TWISTING |
processes, operations |
A twisting operation
applied at an intermediate position on a yarn |
A twisting operation
applied at an intermediate position on a yarn or other
similar continuous assembly of fibres, so that no net
twist can be inserted, as distinct from twisting at the
end of a yarn where real twist is inserted. |
| FALSE-TWIST TEXTURING |
processes, operations |
See under Texturing |
See under Texturing |
| FANCY ATLAS FABRIC |
fabrics |
A warp-knitted
fabric similar in construction to a single or two bar
atlas fabric |
A warp-knitted
fabric similar in construction to a single or two bar
atlas fabric but, in which the direction of traverse may
change more than once within the repeat and the movement
of the threads is not restricted to one wale per course |
| FANCY BACK |
fabrics |
A fabric made with
a pattern on the back, which differs from the face, often
the back is of another colour, a plaid, etc |
A fabric made with
a pattern on the back, which differs from the face, often
the back is of another colour, a plaid, etc |
| FANCY PURL |
fabrics |
Also known as Links-links |
Also known as Links-links.
A general term used to describe patterned purl structures
in which a design is formed from back and face loops. |
| FANCY RIB WEAVE |
fabrics |
A rib weave in
which the float length is varied to change the width of
the ribs to give a patterned ef-fect. |
A rib weave in
which the float length is varied to change the width of
the ribs to give a patterned ef-fect. |
| FANCY WEAVE |
fabrics |
Any weave, which
is not one of the three basic weaves, plain, twill or
satin, but a combination or extension of these weaves. |
Any weave, which
is not one of the three basic weaves, plain, twill or
satin, but a combination or extension of these weaves. |
| FANCY YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A yarn which differs
from the normal construction due to irregularities produced
in it |
A yarn which differs
from the normal construction due to irregularities produced
in it, i.e. a yarn that differs significantly from the
normal appearance/construction of a single or plied yarn
due to the presence of irregularities deliberately produced
during its formation. |
| FASCIATED YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Staple fibre yarn,
that by virtue of its manufacturing technique consists
of a core of essentially parallel fibres bound together
by wrapper fibres. |
Staple fibre yarn,
that by virtue of its manufacturing technique consists
of a core of essentially parallel fibres bound together
by wrapper fibres. The current technique of manufacture
is often referred to as Air-jet spinning. |
| FASHION |
general |
The prevailing
style or mode in dress |
The prevailing
style or mode in dress; also in fabrics (colour and texture). |
| FASHIONED |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A description of
a knitted garment in which shaping by narrowing or widening
has been achieved on the knitting machine. |
A description of
a knitted garment in which shaping by narrowing or widening
has been achieved on the knitting machine. |
| FASHIONING ANGLE |
fabrics |
The angle formed
at the edge of a piece of fashioned fabric |
The angle formed
at the edge of a piece of fashioned fabric, measured between
course alignment and the line of the fashioned selvage. |
| FASHIONING FREQUENCY |
fabrics |
The number of courses
between two succeeding fashionings within a series. |
The number of courses
between two succeeding fashionings within a series. |
| FAST COLOUR |
chemicals, textile
auxiliaries |
A colour that will
resist colour-destroying agents such as sunlight, washing,
dry-cleaning and rubbing. |
A colour that will
resist colour-destroying agents such as sunlight, washing,
dry-cleaning and rubbing. |
| FAST DYE |
chemicals, textile
auxiliaries |
A dye that does
not change shade appreciably during the life of the material
on which it is used. |
A dye that does
not change shade appreciably during the life of the material
on which it is used. Term should be qualified, i.e. fast
to washing, sunlight, or other specific colour destroying
agent. |
| FAST REED |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A reed rigidly
mounted in the loom sley |
A reed rigidly
mounted in the loom sley |
| FASTENERS |
accessories |
Fasteners are used
as garment closures. |
Fasteners are used
as garment closures. The fastener types mainly used are
Snap fasteners, Hook-and-eye fasteners and Self-fastening
tape fasteners |
| FASTNESS |
³ |
See Colour fastness. |
See Colour fastness. |
| FATIGUE FACTOR |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The weakening of
a stretch yarn so that it loses some of its ability to
recover after having been stretched. |
The weakening of
a stretch yarn so that it loses some of its ability to
recover after having been stretched. When stretch yarn
is twisted at speeds too high for the length of the heater
box (where is twist is set), stretch yarn fatigue can
result. |
| FBA |
³ |
See Fluorescent
brightening agent |
See Fluorescent
brightening agent |
| FDY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Fully drawn
yarn |
See Fully drawn
yarn |
| FEARNOUGHT |
fabrics |
A stout, thick,
woollen fabric with a heavy appearance |
A stout, thick,
woollen fabric with a heavy appearance, used chiefly as
a covering for portholes and the doors of powder magazines
and also for scarves and coats. |
| FEATHER CLOTH |
fabrics |
A novelty fabric |
A novelty fabric
made by mixing fine, soft feathers into wool yarns during
manufacture. |
| FEATHER FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Detached barbs
of feathers |
Detached barbs
of feathers, which are not joined or attached to each
other. |
| FEATHER PROTEIN
FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Regenerated
protein fibres |
See under Regenerated
protein fibres |
| FEATHER STITCH |
seams, stitches |
A decorative stitch,
principally used in corsetry |
A decorative stitch,
principally used in corsetry. A similar machine cycle
is employed as for the fagot stitch but the joining of
two edges is not involved.
A decorative stitch arranged to produce a branching zigzag
line. Often used to sew on blanket bind-ings. |
| FEATHERS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The outgrowth forming
the contour and external covering of fowl. |
The outgrowth forming
the contour and external covering of fowl. |
| FEATHUR STUFFINGS |
accessories |
The plumage of
chickens, turkeys, ducks and geese, used for filling pillows. |
The plumage of
chickens, turkeys, ducks and geese, used for filling pillows.
Fine fluff found under the outer plumage of ducks and
geese is called down. Feathers and down can be mixed or
blended. The predominant material is listed first on the
label |
| FEED |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In sewing machine,
a mechanism for repeatedly moving material being stitched
from one stitch position to the next. |
In sewing machine,
a mechanism for repeatedly moving material being stitched
from one stitch position to the next. |
| FEED-DOGS |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In sewing machine,
toothed metal devices positioned under or over the work
that advance the fabric components during stitching. |
In sewing machine,
toothed metal devices positioned under or over the work
that advance the fabric components during stitching. Under
work they form an oval movement, at the top of which they
protrude through the throat plate and move forward, advancing
the fabric one stitch; then they sink below the throat
plate and return to their original location |
| FEED-OFF-ARM BED |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In sewing machine,
a horizontal U-shaped bed |
In sewing machine,
a horizontal U-shaped bed with the end of one arm underneath
the sewing head and the other attached to the upright
part of the machine arm. |
| FEEDER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
The collective
mechanisms on a knitting machine that produce a course
of loops |
The collective
mechanisms on a knitting machine that produce a course
of loops. Confusingly the term is also used to describe
the metal plate with a hole or holes that, guide the yarn
into the hooks of latch needles during loop formation.
Both terms are commonly used in relation to circular machines,
which are classified according to the number of feeders
they possess. This defines the maximum number of courses
they can knit in one revolution of the machine |
| FEEDER VARIATION |
defects |
See Machine barré. |
See Machine barré. |
| FEEDING FOOT |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In sewing machine,
a presser foot |
In sewing machine,
a presser foot which alternately engages and disengages
with the upper surface of the material and which is driven
so that it feeds the material. |
| FEEL |
fabrics |
See under Finish. |
See under Finish. |
| FELL |
fabrics |
The edge of the
cloth in the loom |
The edge of the
cloth in the loom, marked by the last weft thread that
is nearest to the reed whilst the fabric is being woven.
The line where the warp shed and the newly woven fabric
meet; the weft is beaten into the fell. |
| FELLING |
processes, operations |
The operation of
over-sewing a piece of material by its edge (raw or turned
in) upon the body material. |
The operation of
over-sewing a piece of material by its edge (raw or turned
in) upon the body material. Blind-stitch machines are
used for many felling operations |
| FELLING MARK |
fabrics |
indicate the length
of the piece in which the fabric is sold |
A length of fabric
from the loom contains woven marks (felling marks) at
intervals, which indicate the length of the piece in which
the fabric is sold |
| FELLING SIMILI |
fabrics |
See Simili binding
under Binding. |
See Simili binding
under Binding. |
| FELT |
fabrics |
A type of textile
fabric characterised by the densely matted condition of
most of or all of the fibres of which it is composed. |
A type of textile
fabric characterised by the densely matted condition of
most of or all of the fibres of which it is composed.
Wool, and some other animal fibres possess a natural tendency
to felt or mat together under the influence of heat, moisture
and mechanical pressure. Wool fibres in wet and soapy
conditions are milled until they are interlocked and matted
and then pressure applied. In this way, webs of wool fibres
can be consolidated into a fabric.
The fabric is entirely without grain because the flat
webs of fibres are non-directional, i.e. the fibres point
in all directions. Felt can be cut in any direction without
fraying or unravelling, because of the compact fibre arrangement.
Fabric uses are restricted due to many reasons. Being
a rigid fabric it does not drape. Does not wear well,
and loses shape as it has no elasticity. Stability and
durability properties are poor. The main apparel use of
felt is in the manufacture of hats where its capacity
to be shaped by heat and moisture can be exploited. Its
lack of grain makes it suitable for handicraft and appliqué
work where cutting in intricate shapes is possible. Certain
types of soft bulky felts are used as padding in garment
interlinings. |
| FELT FABRIC |
fabrics |
This is an ordinary
woven fabric, usually cotton or wool, |
This is an ordinary
woven fabric, usually cotton or wool, but may be other
fibres, that have been milled on the surface to produce
a felt-like ap-pearance, which disguises the weave beneath.
The fabric may be of any weight, and the process is sometimes
applied to cheap base fabric to give it more warmth and
interest. It will be liable to shrink if it is of wool
or unshrunk cotton. See also Felt. |
| FELTABILITY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The degree to which
a sample of fibres will consolidate in a specified time
by interlocking under prescribed combinations of mechanical
action, chemical action, moisture, and heat. |
The degree to which
a sample of fibres will consolidate in a specified time
by interlocking under prescribed combinations of mechanical
action, chemical action, moisture, and heat. |
| FELTED YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A wool-rich yarn
produced from sliver, slubbings, rovings, yarn, or by
felting. See also Continuous yarn felting |
A wool-rich yarn
produced from sliver, slubbings, rovings, yarn, or by
felting. See also Continuous yarn felting |
| FELTER |
defects |
Also called Fray |
Also called Fray.
A faulty area in a fabric caused by local interference
with the shed during weaving, that results in a concentration
of stitches or floats, and is sometimes accompanied by
bro-ken ends. |
| FELTING |
processes, operations |
The matting together
of fibres during processing, wear or washing. |
The matting together
of fibres during processing, wear or washing. See also
Milling. |
| FELTING DIMENSIONAL
CHANGE |
fabrics |
The irreversible
dimensional change that occurs in a consolidated wool
fabric |
The irreversible
dimensional change that occurs in a consolidated wool
fabric when it is subjected to agitation in laundering |
| FELTING NEEDLE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Needlefelt
needle. |
See Needlefelt
needle. |
| FENTS |
fabrics |
Also called Bribe.
Short lengths of fabric cut from an end, piece, or lump
of fabric. |
Also called Bribe.
Short lengths of fabric cut from an end, piece, or lump
of fabric. They may or may not be of imperfect material.
See also Remnants |
| FEP FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fluorinated ethylene-propylene
copolymer fibres |
Fluorinated ethylene-propylene
copolymer fibres, spun from fluorinated ethylene-propylene
copolymer |
| FIBER |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Same as Fibre. |
Same as Fibre. |
| FIBRAMINE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A viscose rayon
into which, casein has been incorporated. |
A viscose rayon
into which, casein has been incorporated. |
| FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A unit of matter,
which possesses the properties of fineness, flexibility
and a high ratio of length to thickness. The basic complete,
or smallest unit used in a textile structure. |
Also called Fibre.
A unit of matter, which possesses the properties of fineness,
flexibility and a high ratio of length to thickness. The
basic complete, or smallest unit used in a textile structure.
A thin and flexible element, which may be combined with
others to make yarn or fabric. A generic term for any
one of the various types of matter that form the basic
elements of a textile and that is characterised by having
a high ratio of length to thickness. Chemical fibre: A
literal translation of various non-English terms having
the same meaning as man-made fibre. Man-made fibre: A
manufactured fibre as distinct from a fibre that occurs
naturally. Natural fibre: A fibre occurring in nature,
which is animal, vegetable or mineral in origin. Regenerated
fibre: A fibre formed from a solution of a natural polymer
or of a chemical derivative of a natural polymer and having
the same chemical constitution as the natural polymer
from which the solution or derivative was made. Synthetic
fibre: A manufactured fibre produced from a polymer built
up from chemical elements or compounds, in contrast to
fibres made from naturally occurring fibre-forming polymers. |
| FIBRE BIREFRINGENCE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See also Birefringence |
The algebraic difference
of the index of refraction of the fibre for plane polarised
light vibrating parallel to the longitudinal axis of the
fibre and the index of refraction for light vibrating
perpendicular to the long axis. See also Birefringence |
| FIBRE COHESION |
general |
Also called Cling
and Drag |
Also called Cling
and Drag. The resistance to separation of fibres in contact
with one another. |
| FIBRE CONTENT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The type and amount
of fibre(s) used in making a textile product. |
The type and amount
of fibre(s) used in making a textile product. |
| FIBRE CRIMP |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The waviness of
a fibre expressed as waves or crimps per unit length |
1. The waviness
of a fibre expressed as waves or crimps per unit length.
2. The difference in distance between two points on the
fibre as it lies in an unstretched condition and the same
two points when the fibre is straightened under specific
tension, expressed as a per-centage of the unstretched
length. |
| FIBRE CROSS-SECTION |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibres are made
in a variety of cross-sectional shapes, and this has very
important effect on fibre properties. |
Fibres are made
in a variety of cross-sectional shapes, and this has very
important effect on fibre properties. The bending stiffness
of a flattened cross-section is less than that of a round
cross sectional area. The high bending stiffness of the
round or bean-shaped cross-section is particularly advantageous
in carpet fibres, contributing to resilience or spring-back.
A flattened or dog-bone cross-section, on the other hand,
is conducive to a softness of touch in fabrics made from
this type of fibre. The dog-bone type also has a distinctive
effect on the reflection of light, and thus is often noticeable
as a sheen or lustre in certain fabric constructions. |
| FIBRE DENSITY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Mass per unit volume
of the solid matter, which a fibre is composed of, measured
under specified conditions. |
Mass per unit volume
of the solid matter, which a fibre is composed of, measured
under specified conditions. |
| FIBRE DIAGRAM |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Fibre
length. |
See under Fibre
length. |
| FIBRE EXTENT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Fibre
length. |
See under Fibre
length. |
| FIBRE FINENESS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The fineness of
cotton, silk and man-made fibres is usually expressed
in terms of average linear density. |
The fineness of
cotton, silk and man-made fibres is usually expressed
in terms of average linear density. The fineness of animal
fibres is usually expressed as the mean fibre diameter. |
| FIBRE FINISH |
processes, operations |
Process of application
of a coating of chemical compound(s) on a fibre to improve
lubrication and prevent electrification. |
Process of application
of a coating of chemical compound(s) on a fibre to improve
lubrication and prevent electrification. |
| FIBRE GENERIC NAME |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A name used to
distinguish a class of textile fibre from others |
A name used to
distinguish a class of textile fibre from others. For
natural fibres, the distinguishing attribute is the fibre
source; for man-made fibres, the chemical difference,
which often results in distinctive property differences,
is the main basis for classification; other attributes
are included where necessary. |
| FIBRE LENGTH |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The distance between
the ends of a fibre when measured under specified conditions. |
The distance between
the ends of a fibre when measured under specified conditions.
In commercial practice the following terms apply:
Barbe: The mean length of the fibres of a sliver or of
a roving calculated from the proportions by mass of the
fibres in the sliver or roving. This term is used for
long staple fibres, particularly wool.
Crimped length: The distance between the ends of a fibre
when substantially freed from external re-straint, measured
with respect to its general axis of orientation.
Dispersion: A measure of length variation in cotton fibres.
Statistically it is the inter quartile range of the fibres
greater than half the maximum length when determined using
a comb sorter.
Effective length: A measure of the characteristic length
of a sample of cotton fibres. Statistically it is the
inter quartile length of fibres longer than half the maximum
length when determined using a comb sorter.
Fibre diagram: A graphical representation of the length
characteristics of a sample of staple fibres. It is a
graph of length against cumulative frequency.
Fibre extent: The distance between two planes which just
enclose a fibre without intercepting it, each plane being
perpendicular to the general direction of the yarn or
other assembly of which the fibre forms a part.
Fibrogram: A graph showing the length distribution of
a sample of cotton fibres as determined by using the Fibrograph
instrument. Statistically it is the curve representing
the second cumulation (in-tegral) of the frequency distribution.
Floating fibre index: The percentage of fibres not gripped
by either the front or back rollers of a drafting system.
It is determined by the Fibrograph instrument, which is
used to test samples of cot-ton fibre.
Hauteur: The mean length of the fibres of a sliver or
roving, calculated from the proportions by titre of the
fibres in the sliver or the roving. This term is used
for long staple fibres, particularly wool. See Barbe above.
Span length: The fibre extent exceeded by a stated percentage
of cotton fibres by number deter-mined by using the Fibrograph
instrument, e.g. 2.5 % span length is the extent exceeded
by only 2.5 % of the fibres.
Staple length: The characteristic fibre length of a sample
of staple fibres (usually estimated by sub-jective visual
assessment for natural fibres). The staple length of wool
is usually taken as the length of the longer fibres in
a hand-prepared tuft or 'staple' in its naturally crimped
and wavy condition (see Crimp). The staple length of cotton
corresponds very closely to the modal or most frequent
length of the fibres when measured in a straightened condition.
Uniformity index: A measure of length variation in cotton
fibres determined using the Fibrograph instrument. It
is the ratio of the mean length to the upper half mean
length expressed as a percent-age.
Uniformity ratio: A measure of length variation in cotton
fibres determined by using the Fibrograph instrument.
It is the ratio between two span lengths (50 % and 2.5
%) expressed as a percentage of the longer span length.
Upper half mean length: The mean length by number of the
longer one half of the fibres by weight as determined
by using the Fibrograph instrument for cotton. |
| FIBRE LENGTH ARRAY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A series of individual
fibres that are arranged in order based on fibre length |
A series of individual
fibres that are arranged in order based on fibre length
or a series of groups of fibres that represent essentially
uniform lengths within a group and which are arranged
in order based on group length. |
| FIBRE MIGRATION |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The change in the
distance of a fibre or filament from the axis of a yarn
during production. |
The change in the
distance of a fibre or filament from the axis of a yarn
during production. |
| FIBRE MORPHOLOGY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The form and structure
of a fibre, including its biological structure, shape,
cross-section, and microscopic appearance |
The form and structure
of a fibre, including its biological structure, shape,
cross-section, and microscopic appearance |
| FIBRE NUMBER |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The linear density
of a fibre expressed in units such as tex or denier. |
The linear density
of a fibre expressed in units such as tex or denier. |
| FIBRE OPTICS |
processes, operations |
Application to
image transmission of the ability of transparent dielectric
fibres of glass or plastics to conduct light internally
along their length in a flexible path |
Application to
image transmission of the ability of transparent dielectric
fibres of glass or plastics to conduct light internally
along their length in a flexible path |
| FIBRE PORES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Orifices in the
fibre |
Orifices in the
fibre, i.e. interstices or small openings existing between
the molecules of the fibre. |
| FIBRE PROPERTIES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The performance
of fabrics are relative to the properties of fibres used
in it. |
The performance
of fabrics are relative to the properties of fibres used
in it. Salient properties of fibre involved in the performance
of fabrics are; Appearance: This includes colour, lustre,
abrasion resistance, pilling property, resiliency, dye
affinity, and finish affinity. Comfort: This includes
density, elongation, elastic recovery, moisture regain,
absorbency, static charge, flexibility or pliability,
and resiliency. Maintenance: This includes strength or
tenacity - wet and dry, resiliency, moisture absorbency,
abrasion resistance, and chemical resistance. Durability:
This includes tenacity, flexibility or pliability, cohesiveness,
moisture regain, absorbency, elastic recovery, elongation,
thermal reactions, chemical; reactions, and biological
reactions. |
| FIBRE QUALITY INDEX |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A numerical value
indicating the processability of cotton |
A numerical value
indicating the processability of cotton calculated from
its fineness. |
| FIBRE ROPE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A compact but flexible
torsionally balanced, continuous structure of natural
or man-made fibres |
A compact but flexible
torsionally balanced, continuous structure of natural
or man-made fibres produced from strands which are twisted,
plaited, or braided together, generally greater than 5-mm
(3/16 in.) diameter and which serves primarily to transmit
a force from the point of origin to the point of application. |
| FIBRE ULTIMATE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
That unit cell
beyond which subdivision is not possible without loss
of a fibre's identity. |
That unit cell
beyond which subdivision is not possible without loss
of a fibre's identity. |
| FIBREFILL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Virgin man-made
fibres especially engineered |
Virgin man-made
fibres especially engineered as to linear density, cut
length, and crimp for use as a textile filling material. |
| FIBRID |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A netted filamentary
or fibrillar structure, substantially longer in one dimension
than in the other two |
A netted filamentary
or fibrillar structure, substantially longer in one dimension
than in the other two, that exhibits a capacity for mechanical
entanglement with other structures and much higher water-holding
capacity than fibres produced by conventional spinning
means. Fibrids are used as binding elements in the production
of wet-laid synthetic papers. |
| FIBRIL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A small fibre;
bundles of fibre cells. |
A small fibre;
bundles of fibre cells. |
| FIBRILLAE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See also Lousiness. |
Whitish specks
often visible on the surface of dyed silk yarns. See also
Lousiness. |
| FIBRILLATED YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A yarn produced
by the process of fibrillation. |
A yarn produced
by the process of fibrillation. |
| FIBRILLATED-FILM
FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Staple fibre produced
by cutting, chopping or stretch-breaking fibrillated yarn
or fibrillated-film tow. |
Staple fibre produced
by cutting, chopping or stretch-breaking fibrillated yarn
or fibrillated-film tow. |
| FIBRILLATED-FILM
TOW |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
An assembly of
fibrillated textile films |
An assembly of
fibrillated textile films |
| FIBRILLATED-FILM
YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Yarn produced from
fibrillating film |
Yarn produced from
fibrillating film that has been converted into a longitudinally
fibrillated struc-ture. |
| FIBRILLATING FILM |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A polymer film
in which molecular orientation has been induced by stretching |
A polymer film
in which molecular orientation has been induced by stretching
to such a degree that it is capable of being converted
into yarn or twine by manipulation, e.g. by twisting under
tension, which results in the formation of a longitudinally
split structure (Split fibre). |
| FIBRILLATION |
defects |
The process of
splitting a longitudinally oriented fibre, textile film
or tape into a network of interconnected fibres. |
The process of
splitting a longitudinally oriented fibre, textile film
|
