| Fabric Cloth |
A
general term used to describe a planar structure, which is generally in
a sheet-like form, consisting of yarns or fibres and manufactured by
weaving, knitting, lace binding, braiding, felting, bonding, fusing or
inter locking. The planar structure has substantial surface area in
relation to its thickness and sufficient mechanical strength to give
the assembly inherent cohesion. The fabrics are classified depending on
the type of manufacturing process, employed.
The main types of fabrics are:
Woven fabrics
Knitted fabrics
Braided fabrics
Lace or Net fabrics
Felted fabrics
Non-woven fabrics
In textile industry parlance, the fabrics are generally distinguished
as apparel fabric, decorative fabric, and industrial.fabric. |
| Fabric |
Cloth; material that resembles cloth. |
| Fabric (textile) |
A
manufactured assembly of fibres and/or yarns that has substantial
surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient mechanical
strength to give the assembly inherent cohesion. Note: fabrics are most
commonly woven or knitted, but the term includes assemblies produced by
lace-making, tufting, felting, net-making, and the so-called nonwoven
processes. |
| Fabric Air-conditioning |
A
term used to describe, a chemical process in which short fuzzy fibres
are sealed into a yarn or are removed from the fabric to make the
fabric more porous, but without impairing its strength. The porous
fabric enhances the circulation of air through it and thereby becomes
cooler. |
| Fabric Care |
The
methods of maintenance for textile materials to keep them in good
condition so that they will perform adequately. Some of the methods
employed are: laundering, pressing, dry-cleaning, airing, brushing,
mothproofing, spotting and stain removal and storage. |
| Fabric Construction Fabric Structure |
The
term used to describe, the detailed structure and quality of a fabric
including information such as type of knit or weave, the width of
fabric, count and number of plies of yarns used as warp and weft,
number of threads per unit area in warp and weft and the length of
fabric per unit weight. |
| Fabric Damage |
A
general term used to describe the defects, faults, imperfections,
blemishes, flaws, deficiencies, shortcomings or failings on fabrics
caused by (a) corrosive chemicals coming in contact with it, (b)
mechanical injuries like holes, tears, or cuts, (c) miniature holes in
the fabric, (d) poor yarn twisting, (e) unduly heavy threads and (f)
abrasion on knots. |
| Fabric Designing |
The term used to describe, the patterns that lend interest to fabrics and are responsible for large variety and beauty.
|
| Fabric Dip |
In
tyre fabrics, the chemical composition that is applied to a textile
cord or fabric to improve its property of adhesion to rubber compounds.
|
| Fabric Extension |
The amount by which a fabric extends, usually under load and in the direction of that load. |
| Fabric Finish |
A
term used to describe the chemical and other treatments, which are
employed on a fabric to modify it to make it more capable of fulfilling
its function. Generally the term comprises all operations following
bleaching, dyeing or printing. There are many types of finishes, which
alter the fabric appearance, alter the handle of the fabric alter the
draping quality of the fabric, help the fabric to keep up its size and
shape or make it more serviceable. |
| Fabric Finishing |
The
process of applying any type finish on a fabric. Some of the important
finishing processes include calendering, brushing, raising, starching,
etc. Several other special finishes have also been devised to make a
fabric more attractive, to give it some desirable property it would not
otherwise possess, or to correct some defect in it. |
| Fabric Length |
The
distance from one end of a fabric to the other measured parallel to the
side edge of the fabric, laid flat on a table while it is under zero
tension and is free of folds or wrinkles. Unless otherwise specified,
the usable length of a piece between any truth marks, piece-ends, or
numbering. |
| Fabric Length |
LUnless
otherwise specified, the usable length of a piece between any truth
marks, piece-ends, or numbering, when the fabric is measured laid flat
on a table in the absence of tension. |
| Fabric Paint |
This
commonly refers to a paint that is primarily used on most fabrics, with
the exception perhaps of a very slick synthetic. It tends to have a
creamy consistency like that of Elmers glue, which makes it ideal for
painting on cloth. Pigments are mixed with a water-soluble acrylic
based "fabric medium" that binds the paint permanently to the fabric
when properly heat-set. |
| Fabric Performance |
The
performance specifications for fabrics, meant for various end uses, are
guided by internationally approved standards. Generally, the main
performance characteristics which, are tested on fabrics are:
absorbency, bow and skewness, breaking strength (in both directions),
bursting strength (in both directions), colourfastness to various
agents (which include: burnt gas fumes; crocking; chlorinated pool
water; dry-cleaning; frosting or flat abrasion; laundering; light;
ozone; perspiration; sea water; solvent; water), dimensional change to
various processes, dimensional change to (which include: washing;
dry-cleaning; pressing), distortion of yarn, durability of back
coating, fabric appearance rating, flammability, laundered appearance,
light degradation, non-fibrous material, pilling resistance, retention
of various properties (which include: hand; character; appearance),
soil release, surface abrasion, tear strength (in both directions),
thermal transmittance, water repellence, water resistance, yarn
distortion, and yarn slippage resistance. |
| Fabric Pores |
The
term used to describe the orifices in a fabric. The open pores make for
absorbency; when pores become closed with soil, absorbency is affected.
|
| Fabric Roof System |
A
system of coated fabric or laminated fabric along with support cables,
edge ropes, clamps, neoprene, roof drains, arch wear strips, and anchor
bolts that constitutes the outside top covering of a building. |
| Fabric Scutcher |
A
machine employed for the continuous opening of a fabric, which has
previously been in a rope form; the machine whirls against the fabric
in such a way and speed, so as to spread the cloth in full width. |
| Fabric Softeners |
The term used to describe the chemical compounds usually added to the final rinse, for improving the soft feel of fabrics.
|
| Fabric Stability |
The
property of a fabric, which denotes its ability to resist slippage of
yarn segments in one direction over yarn segments in the opposite
direction. |
| Fabric Stretch |
The increase in length of a specimen of a fabric resulting from a load applied under specified conditions. |
| Fabric Web |
A term used to describe a plain circular-knitted fabric. |
| Fabric Weight |
The
mass per unit area expressed in grams per square metre (ounces per
square yard), grams per linear metre (ounces per linear yard), or
inversely as meters per kilogram (linear yards per pound), or square
meters per kilogram (square yards per pound). |
| Fabric Width |
1.
Unless other wise specified, the distance from the outer edge of one
selvedge to the outer edge of the other selvedge, measured
perpendicular to the selvedges while the fabrics is held under zero
tension and is free of folds and wrinkles. In the case of commercial
dispute the measurement should be made after the fabric has been
conditioned in a standard atmosphere for testing. When buying or
selling fabric it is customary to specify the basis on which the width
is to be assessed e.g., overall, within limits, or usable width (which
implies within stenter pin marks).
2. In case of a woven fabric made on a shuttleless loom: The distance
from the outer warp on one side to the outer warp on the other side,
measured perpendicular to the warp yarns while the fabric is held under
zero tension and is free of folds and wrinkles.
3. In case of a circular knit fabric: Twice the perpendicular distance
between the enclosed edges of a flattened tube of fabric that is under
zero tension and free of folds or wrinkles.
4. In case of a flat knit fabric: The perpendicular distance between
the selvedges when the fabric is under zero tension and free of folds
or wrinkles.
5. In case of a raised-surface fabric: The dimension included within
the outer limits of the nap or pile, but excluding the selvedges, or as
otherwise agreed upon by the purchaser and seller.
|
| Fabric Width |
Unless
otherwise specified, the distance from edge to edge of a fabric when
laid flat on a table without tension. In the case of commercial dispute
the measurement should be made after the fabric has been conditioned in
a standard atmosphere for testing. When buying and selling fabric it is
normal to specify the basis on which the width is to be assessed e.g.,
overall, within limits, or usable width (which implies within stenter
pin marks). |
| Fabrography |
The
art and science of creating and printing designs on textiles by usage
of screens or stencils; the process may be manual or mechanical. |
| Face |
The
right side or the better looking side of the fabric. In other words,
the side of a fabric, which is intended to be the use surface or which
is to be visible in an end product. Usually by reason of weave or
finish, it presents a better appearance. However, in many industrial
fabrics there are no distinction between face and back. |
| Faced Cloth |
A
fabric, which has a different weave (pile) or finish (nap) on the face
side as opposed to the reverse and are cut ‘one-way’. The best quality
face cloth is produced from wool, but sometimes acrylic and viscose
fibres also are employed. Made in various weights and used mainly for
coats and jackets. Inexpensive fabrics may be used for robes and
dressing gowns. |
| Face Finished Fabric |
1.
A fabric, the face side of which has been subjected to a finishing
process, by which the weave and yarn structures are obscured. This is
achieved by fulling and napping.
2. The term is also used to describe fabrics, the face sides of which
have been subjected to any finishing treatment, like brushing, sanding,
sueding, teasing, etc., to impart it a variety of looks and effects.
3. The term is also used to describe many warp knit fabrics, that have
been subjected to a variety of innovative surface finishing techniques.
|
| Face-finished (fabric) |
Descriptive of a finish, for example, to wool fabrics, in which the face side is treated selectively, as in raising.
|
| Face Loop; Plain Loop |
A simple open loop pulled through the loop below it towards the viewer. |
| Face Side; Right Side |
The
term used to describe the side of a textile material that is outward in
the completed object; i.e. the side of the fabric intended to be shown
whilst in wear. |
| Face Plate |
In a sewing machine, the cover on the sewing-head end of the machine arm. |
| Face-to-Face Carpets |
The
carpets manufactured in a sandwich structure, in which the pile is
attached alternately to two substrates; cutting the pile yarns between
the two substrates separates the it into two cut-pile carpets. |
| Face-to-face Carpets |
Carpets
manufactured as a sandwich in which the pile is attached alternately to
two substrates: two cut pile carpets are made by cutting the pile yarns
between the two substrates. |
| Facing |
An
additional piece of fabric attached to the upper surface of a garment.
Usually used in knitted garments at the front joining edges of
cardigans and jackets, but also used to describe the button-stands of
neck openings of shirt style garments.
During the course of time the meaning was extended to cover all the reveres of the body or sleeves of a garment.
|
| Facing |
Fabric sewn into the inside of the garment for structure and lining purposes. |
| Facings |
Edging
of fine fur or rich cloth, these trimmings were purely for decoration.
During the course of time the meaning changed towards the contemporary
meaning of today, the term was extended to cover all the reveres of the
body or sleeves of a garment. |
| Facing Silk |
A
fine lustrous fabric of silk (usually of cord, satin, twill weave, or
barathea) used for facing, e.g. lapels in men’s evening wear. |
| Facing Silk |
TA
fine lustrous fabric of silk (usually of corded satin, twill weave, or
barathea) used for facing, e.g., lapels in men's evening wear. (Fabrics
of other fibres are used for facing purposes but are not properly
described as 'facing silk'.) |
| Façonné |
The
term used to describe a group of plain colour fabrics of soft floppy
crêpe with satin or taffeta effect patterns. Designs are always small,
often shiny on dull background; scattered motifs usually jacquard but
sometimes burn out. The name originated from the French word, which
means ‘figured’. Originally made in silk, it is produced from other
fibres like, viscose, acetate, polyester or mixtures. Used for blouses,
soft dresses, evening wear. |
| Faconne |
A fabric with small scattered motifs usually jacquard but sometimes burn out.
|
| Faconne |
Silk
or rayon. Figured weave or "burnt-out" finish. Faconne in French, means
fancy weave. Has small designs all over the fabric. Fairly light in
weight, and could be slightly creped. Background is much more sheer
than the designs, therefore the designs seem to stand out. Very
effective when worn over a different colour. Drapes, handle, and wears
well.
|
| Façonné (Faconne) |
The
French word for 'figured'. It is used in relation to textiles to
describe jacquard fabrics with a pattern of small, scattered figures. |
| Façonné Velvet |
A patterned velvet fabric having patterns produced by the burnt-out method of designing. Made from a variety of fibres. |
| Faconne Velvet |
Patterned velvet made by burnt-out print process. The design is of velvet with background plain.
|
| FA Cotton |
Acronym for ‘Fully Acetylated Cotton’. |
| Fad |
A
short-lived fashion; they seldom have any lasting impact on future
fashion. They are briefly and suddenly seen everywhere and just as
suddenly they vanish.
|
| Fad |
Short-lived
fashion is called fads; they seldom have any lasting impact on future
fashion. They are briefly and suddenly seen everywhere and just as
suddenly they vanish.
|
| Fad |
Short-lived
fashion is called fad; they seldom have any lasting Impact on future
fashion. They are briefly and suddenly seen everywhere and just as
suddenly they vanish. |
| Fade |
(1)
In fastness testing, any change in the colour of an object caused by
light or contaminants in the atmosphere, e.g. burnt-gas fumes. Note:
The change in colour may be in hue, depth or brightness or any
combination of these,
(2) Colloquially, a reduction in the depth of colour of an object,
irrespective of cause. Fallers (a) straight, pinned bars employed in
the control of fibres between drafting rollers, b) Curved arms fixed to
two shafts on a mule carriage and carrying the faller wires.
|
| Fading Fade |
1.
In textile fastness testing, the term used to describe, the loss of
colour of a material, due to exposure to natural or artificial light or
contaminants in the atmosphere, e.g. burnt-gas fumes. A colour can fade
in several ways, i.e. it can fade in hue, depth or brightness or any
combination of these. When the required shade has been obtained by
mixing dyes, the fading of the individual dye may well differ.
2. Colloquially, it means a reduction in the depth of colour of an object, irrespective of the causes.
|
| Fade-O-Meter |
A
standard laboratory device for evaluation of a fabric’s fastness of
colour to sunlight. Test specimens are revolved around a radiation
source of light (carbon arc) simulating sunlight, at 45° north latitude
on a July day between the hours of 9.00 and 3.00. Fabrics tested are
subjected to appropriate periods of exposure, depending on end-use, and
are rated for resistance to exposure to sunlight. Ratings indicate the
degree of fading or change of colour. The xenon arc approximates the
spectral distribution of sunlight better than any other lamp. |
| Fag |
A fabric defect, which manifests as a coarse or rough spot in woven fabric. |
| Faggoting |
An openwork stripe effect with connecting threads across the open area that creates a ladder effect. |
| Faggoting Stitch |
A
form of lockstitch, using a modified zigzag machine, used principally
in the corsetry industry, for joining material, allowing a narrow gap
between the two edges. The machine performs a cycle of three stitches,
the first through one piece of material, the second in the aperture,
and the third through the other piece of material. |
| Fake Furs |
An
imitation fur, pile fabric made from synthetic fibres, usually acrylic
or nylon, on a firm jersey or woven backing, with the fibres knitted
directly into the cloth. It is fairly expensive and available in a wide
range of colours and types. Some fabrics deliberately simulate the real
fur of animals such as mink, broadtail, chinchilla, ermine, leopard,
etc.; while some others are blatantly unreal. Used for coats, jackets,
children’s coats, hats, collars, cuffs, etc. |
| Faille |
A
soft, light to medium weight, semi-lustrous, plain weave fabric with
pronounced arrow ribs across it. The rib effect is produced by setting
the warp ends very close together and thick weft picks more openly
spaced. The ribs are coarser than those of poplin and are slightly
flattened in finishing. Originally made from silk, but now made also
from man-made filament yarns, such as acetate, viscose or polyester and
is used for dresses, light coats, wedding-gowns linings and facings.
The fabric has good body and the softer varieties drape well. It
creases easily and rather difficult to launder. Faille is essentially
for formal clothes that are not subjected to hard wear. |
| Faille |
A soft ribbed silk with wider ribs than seen in grosgrain ribbon. Slightly glossy. |
| Faille |
A
plain weave fabric characterized by a narrow, crosswise rib which is
usually the result of a fine warp yarn crossed with a heavier weft
yarn. Most commonly made with filament yarns but can be from a variety
of fibres and weights. It usually has a soft hand and a light lustre
with good body and drape. |
| Faille |
Fibre: Silk, rayon.
Weave: Crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Has a definite crosswise rib effect. Very soft
material that drapes well. Finer than grosgrain but in that family -
ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to the crepe
family. It is rather difficult to launder. Will give good wear if
handled properly. Has a lustrous finish.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, soft evening purses, some dressy coats.
|
| Faille |
A
somewhat shiny/lustrous closely woven silk, rayon, or cotton fabric
characterized by slight ribs in the weft. Finer than grosgrain but in
that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to
the crepe family. It is rather difficult to launder. Will give good
wear if handled properly. |
| Faille |
A ribbed fabric with a light lustre that drapes well. Tailors use it for dresses, suits, and coats. |
| Faille Crepe |
DA double-faced fabric made with high-twist poly crepe yarns. |
| Faille Crêpe |
A
fabric having a smooth, dull and richer face effect than crêpe de
chine, and also heavier. Originally a silk fabric, now, made more
usually from synthetic fibres. |
| Faille Ribbon; Facing Ribbon |
A double shot or ribbed plain-woven ribbon commonly used to reinforce the button line of cardigans. |
| Faille Taffeta |
Made with a crosswise rib weave. Has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm. |
| Faille Taffeta |
A
stiff and crisp fabric characterized by a very fine cross- rib filling
effect, resembling faille. Made in plain weave and occasionally on
twill construction from silk, viscose, acetate, etc. Used for coats,
dresses, ….. |
| Faille Taffeta
|
Made with a crosswise rib weave. Has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm. |
| Failure
|
1. An arbitrary point beyond which a material ceases to be functionally capable of its intended use.
2. Sewing defect in sewn fabric seams. Fabric or sewing thread rupture or seam (yarn) slippage.
|
| Fair
|
Isle
an article of clothing knitted in Fair Isle style, namely a style of
knitting originating in the Shetland Islands that is characterized by
bands of multicoloured geometric patterns. |
| Fair Isle Sweater |
A sweater knitted in a coloured pattern resembling the traditional ‘fair isle designs’ originated in Scotland. |
| Fair Isle Knit
|
A
knitted fabric having coloured patterns resembling the traditional
‘fair isle designs’ originated in Scotland. The fibre is usually
acrylic and the fabric has a great deal of elasticity. It may be
inclined to ‘seat’ or lose its shape under strain, so garments are
usually made in loose styles. |
| Fair To Middling
|
The term used to describe the grade of cotton, usually used in the spinning of yarns meant for the production of denim fabrics.
|
| Fake Furs
|
An
imitation fur made from synthetic fibre, usually acrylic or nylon pile,
on a firm jersey or woven backing, with the fibres knitted directly
into the cloth. It is fairly expensive and available in a wide range of
colours and types; some deliberately imitating real fur, some blatantly
unreal. Used for coats, jackets, children’s coats, hats, collars,
cuffs, etc. |
| Fall
|
The section of the collar between the crease and the leaf edge.
|
| Fall |
A very wide turned-down collar worn in the 17th century.
|
| Fallers |
1. Straight, pinned bars employed in the control of fibres between drafting rollers.
2. Curved arms fixed to two shafts on a mule carriage and carrying the faller wires.
|
| Falling Bands Hanging Collars
|
Collars made from linen, lace or in combination of both, having two distinct ends hanging down over the chest. |
| Falling Bands
|
Also
known as rabat and hanging collars; linen or lace collars (or combined)
with two distinct ends hanging down over the chest. The forerunner of
the cravat in the 17th century. They were worn by both men and women. |
| Fall-on Effect
plants |
In
printing, two colours of overlapping pattern, which results in a third
colour. It is thus possible to achieve a three-colour print pattern
with two print rollers. |
| Fallow |
Of a light yellowish brown colour.
|
| Fall Plate Fabric
|
A
patterned fabric made on a Raschel warp-knitting machine using one
needle bar, involving the use of a solid metal plate (fall plate or
chopper bar) to push the newly formed laps of the pattern bars down
below the spoons of the open latches, to be cast off with the ground
loops of the previous course. |
| Falls |
A
flap, covering the abdomen part on certain types of breeches and
trousers, now uncommon. Whole or full falls have vents on either side.
Split falls, as on riding breeches, button halfway. |
| False Reed |
IA reed used, in addition to an ordinary reed, to keep the threads of a fibrous or high-sett warp separated during weaving. |
| False-twisting |
A
twisting operation applied at an intermediate position on a yarn or
other similar continuous assembly of fibres, so that no net twist can
be inserted, as distinct from twisting at the end of a yarn where real
twist is inserted. Note: Real twisting necessarily involves either
rotation of a yam end, as in uptwisting or downtwisting (See Ring
twisting), or the repeated passage of a thread loop around an end, as
two-for-one twisting. In false-twisting, a yarn normally runs
continuously over or through a false-twisting device, which may act at
either a constant or varying rate. When the twisting rate is constant
and equilibrium has been established, the yarn passes through a zone of
added twist then, on leaving the twisting device, returns to its
original twist level. The added (false) twist level is equal to the
ratio of the rotational and axial speeds of the yarn. Equilibrium
false-twisting is utilized in one method of yarn texturing where
thermal setting is carried out in the zone of temporary twist; it is
also used to provide temporary cohesion and thus strength in some
staple-fibre processing systems. (See also Pin-twisting and
Friction-twisting.) The self-twist (repco) process is an example of the
use of a varying false-twisting rate. Static elements such yarn guides
may, in certain circumstances, generate either equilibrium or varying
false-twist in running yarns. |
| False-twisting |
A
twisting Process used in the texturing of thermoplastic filament yarns.
A rotating spindle twists the yarn, which is then set in a heater-box
or tube, after which it is untwisted. Described by this name, since the
twist inserted does not become permanent. The twist, however, does
remain in part because of the so-called ‘memory’ of the twist that was
inserted in the processing. As a result, the yarn gains torque (the
movement of forces that cause rotation or twisting as in the instance
of twisting cord, wire or yarn), or stretch, as well as bulkiness. To
remove stretch the yarn is subjected to a second heat treatment, which
affords stabilization, but at the same time, retains bulkiness. |
| False-twist-textured Yarn
|
A
continuous process, in which a yarn is highly twisted, heat-set and
untwisted. In an infrequently used alternative method, two yarns are
continuously folded together, heat-set, then separated by unfolding. |
| False-twist Texturing |
A
continuous filament yarn made from or containing thermoplastic fibres
is highly twisted, heat-set and untwisted either as a process of three
separate stages or as a continuous process. In an infrequently used
alternative method, two yarns are continuously folded together,
heat-set, then separated by unfolding. False-twist texturing process
produces a generally high-stretch character. This is frequently reduced
by re-heating the yarn in a state where it is only partly relaxed from
the fully extended condition, thus producing a stabilized yarn with the
bulkiness little reduced but with a much reduced retractive power. |
| Fancy Atlas Fabric |
A
warp-knitted fabric similar in construction to a single or two bar
atlas fabric but, in which the direction of traverse may change more
than once within the repeat and the movement of the threads is not
restricted to one wale per course. |
| Fancy Back |
A fabric made with a pattern on the back, which differs from the face, often the back is of another colour, a plaid, etc.
|
| Fancy Rib Weave |
A rib weave, in which the float length is varied to change the width of the ribs to give a patterned effect. |
| Fancy Weave |
The
term used to describe, any weave, which is not one of the three basic
weaves, plain, twill or satin, but a combination or extension of these
weaves |
| Fancy Purl |
A general term used to describe patterned purl structures, in which a design is formed from back and face loops.
|
| Fancy Yarn |
A yarn, which differs significantly from the normal
appearance/construction due to irregularities produced deliberately in
it. These irregularities relate to an increased input of one or more of
its components, or to the inclusion of periodic effects, such as knops,
loops, curls, slubs, etc. |
| Fancy Yarn |
PA
Yarn that differs from the normal construction of single and folded
yarns by way of deliberately produced irregularities in its
construction. These irregularities relate to an increased input of one
or more of its components or to the inclusion of periodic effects such
as knots, loops, curls, slubs or the like. |
| Fanny Pack |
A pack for carrying personal articles that straps to the waist |
| Fasciated Yarn |
A
staple fibre yarn that by virtue of is manufacturing technique consists
of a core of essentially parallel fibres bound together by wrapper
fibres. The current technique of manufacture is often referred to as
jet spinning. |
| Fascinator |
A woman's lightweight headscarf usually of crochet or lace. |
| Fashion |
Style; Mode; Vogue; Trend; Craze; Fad; Taste; In thing; Rage
A very broad term, which is variously defined; some of them are:
The style characteristic of the social elite
The prevailing or preferred manner of dress, adornment, behaviour, or way of life at a given time.
The prevailing style or custom, as in dress or behaviour.
The latest and most admired style in clothes and cosmetics and behaviour.
Something, such as a dress, that is in the current mode or style of pattern, fabric, colour, texture, etc.
|
| Fashioned |
The
term used to describe, a knitted garment in which shaping by narrowing
or widening has been achieved on the knitting machine. |
| Fashion Forecast |
To predict of foretell future fashion tread for a specific period of time. |
| Fashioning Angle |
The
angle formed at the edge of a piece of fashioned fabric, measured
between course alignment and the line of the fashioned selvage. |
| Fashioning Frequency |
The number of courses between two succeeding fashionings within a series |
| Fashion Plate |
1)
An illustration of clothing style. 2) A person who dresses in the
latest fashions. Fashion plate has nothing to do with the type of plate
you eat on. Even if the Apparel Search Company eats lunch on a piece of
fabric, it still would "not" be considered a fashion plate. |
| Fast Colour |
A colour that can resist colour-destroying agents such as sunlight, washing, dry-cleaning and rubbing. |
| Fastener |
An accessory used for garment closures. |
| Fastness |
The
property of resistance to an agency named (e.g., washing, light,
rubbing, crocking, gas-fumes). Note: On the standard scale, five grades
are usually recognized, from 5, signifying unaffected, to 1, grossly
changed. For light fastness, eight grades are used, 8 representing the
highest degree of fastness.
|
| Fastness |
Fastness
of material to an agent (e.g., washing, light, rubbing, crocking,
gas-fumes) means the resistance of the former towards the latter. |
| Fast Reed |
A reed rigidly mounted in the loom sley. |
| Fastness |
Fastness
of material to an agent (e.g., washing, light, rubbing, crocking,
gas-fumes) means the resistance of the former towards the latter. |
| Fatigue |
The
resistance of a material to weakening during alternate
tension-compression cycle, e.g. the inability of stretch yarns to
recover after being stretched. |
| Fatigue Factor |
The
weakening of a stretch yarn so that it loses some of its ability to
recover after having been stretched. When stretch yarn is twisted at
speeds too high for the length of the heater box (where is twist is
set), stretch yarn fatigue can result. |
| Fatty Acids |
An aliphatic acid; many can obtained from animal fats. |
| Fatuhi |
A 'jacket without sleeves'. Generally understood as a vest lightly padded with cotton wool, and quilted. |
| Faux Fur |
A
pile fabric made to simulate animal fur. May be woven or knit in a
variety of fibres although acrylic and modacrylic are most common. |
| Faux Fur |
A
pile fabric made to simulate animal fur. May be woven or knit in a
variety of fibres although acrylic and modacrylic are most common.
|
| Faux Leather |
A fabric made to imitate animal leather. Often a polyurethane laminate. |
| Faux Leather |
A fabric made to imitate animal leather; often a polyurethane laminate. |
| Faux Linen |
A fabric made with slubbed yarns to imitate linen. Usually inexpensive, easy care fabrics. |
| Faux Shearling |
Fabrics made to imitate shearling, the pelt of a sheep with the wool in place.
|
| Faux Silk |
A fabric made from manufactured fibre, most commonly polyester, with good drape, lustre and a soft hand to imitate silk. |
| Fawn |
A variable colour averaging a light greyish brown. |
| Faz-vi
|
A 'jacket without sleeves'. Possibly the same kind of garment as fatuhi (q.v.). |
| FCA |
First Cost to Agent. A form of payment terms |
| Fearnought |
A sturdy, thick, woollen fabric with a heavy appearance, which find usage in coats and as scarves. |
| Feather Cloth |
A novelty fabric made by mixing fine, soft feathers into wool yarns during manufacture. |
| Feather Edged Sliver
|
A
sliver having a large number of fibres protruding from its main body.
During the unwinding of sliver from the top creel, the protruding
fibres click to neighbouring slivers, causing them to become
disarranged and bent back to form neps in the subsequent products. |
| Feather Fibre |
The detached barbs of feathers, which are not joined or attached to each other. |
| Feathers |
The outgrowth forming the contour and external covering of fowl. |
| Feather Stitch |
1.
A decorative stitch, principally used in corsetry. A similar machine
cycle is employed as for the fagot stitch but the joining of two edges
is not involved.
2. A decorative stitch arranged to produce a branching zigzag line. Often used to sew on blanket bindings.
|
| Feather Stuffings |
The
plumage of chickens, turkeys, ducks and geese, used for filling
pillows. Fine fluff found under the outer plumage of ducks and geese is
called down. Feathers and down can be mixed or blended. The predominant
material is listed first on the label. |
| Fedora |
A low soft felt hat with the crown creased lengthwise |
| Feed |
1. In a sewing machine, a mechanism for repeatedly moving material being stitched from one stitch position to the next.
2. The areas of a knitting machine where the needles operate to receive the yarn as it is fed into the frame.
|
| Feedback |
A computerized shade-matching tool. It uses information from one dye batch to calculate the dye recipe for a new shade. |
| Feed-dogs |
In
a sewing machine, the toothed metal devices positioned under or over
the work that advance the fabric components during stitching. Under
work they form an oval movement, at the top of which they protrude
through the throat plate and move forward, advancing the fabric one
stitch; then they sink below the throat plate and return to their
original location. |
| Feeder |
The
collective mechanisms on a knitting machine that produce a course of
loops. Confusingly the term is also used to describe the metal plate
with a hole or holes, which guide the yarn into the hooks of latch
needles during loop formation. Both terms are commonly used in relation
to circular machines, which are classified according to the number of
feeders they possess. This defines the maximum number of courses they
can knit in one revolution of the machine. |
| Feeder Yarn |
The yarn supplied by a fibre producer to a throwster for texturing. |
| Feeding Foot |
In
sewing machine, a presser foot which alternately engages and disengages
with the upper surface of the material and which is driven so that it
feeds the material. |
| Feed-off Arm Bed |
In
sewing machine, a horizontal U-shaped bed with the end of one arm
underneath the sewing head and the other attached to the upright part
of the machine arm. |
| Feed Roller |
A roller that forwards a yarn to a subsequent processing or take-up stage. |
| Feed Roller |
A roller that forwards a yarn to a subsequent processing or take-up stage.
|
| Feed Stripe |
A
fabric used for sewn knits such as t-shirts and other garments. It
produces stripes on fabric when coloured yarns are fed into the
knitting machine in a certain way. |
| Fell |
The
edge of the cloth in the loom marked by the last weft thread that is
nearest to the reed whilst the fabric is being woven. The line where
the warp shed and the newly woven fabric meet; the weft is beaten into
the fell. |
| Felling |
Open
seam stitch, employed to join together seams, and also to impart an
ornamental effect to ladies and children’s garments. The stitch
resembles ladders or small squares. |
| Felling Mark |
A
length of fabric from the loom contains woven marks (felling marks) at
intervals, which indicate the length of the piece in which the fabric
is sold. |
| Fellmongering |
The process of pulling wool from sheepskins. |
| Fellmongering |
The
process of pulling wool from sheepskins. (See also skin wool.): felt, a
textile fabric characterized by the entangled condition of most, or
all, of the fibres of which it is composed. Three classes of felt can
be distinguished, (a) fabrics with a woven or knitted structure, (b)
pressed felt, which is formed from a web or batt containing animal hair
or wool consolidated by the application of heat and mechanical action
that causes the constituent fibres to mat together, (c) needlefelt. |
| Felt |
A
textile fabric characterised by the entangled condition of most of or
all of its component fibres; there are different types. The fabric is
entirely without grain because the flat webs of fibres are
non-directional, i.e. the fibres point in all directions. Felt can be
cut in any direction without fraying or unravelling, because of the
compact fibre arrangement. The main apparel use of felt is in the
manufacture of hats where its capability to be shaped by heat and
moisture can be exploited. Its lack of grain makes it suitable for
handicraft and appliqué work where cutting in intricate shapes is
possible. Certain types of soft bulky felts are used as padding in
garment interlinings. Some are used for protective coverings. Fabric
uses are restricted due to many reasons. Being a rigid fabric it does
not drape. Does not wear well, and loses shape as it has no elasticity.
Stability and durability properties are poor. Best quality felt is made
from good quality wool but other qualities are made by using viscose,
cotton and kapok, and waste as well. The result is more brittle than
wool. For clothes use is confined to appliqué decoration, and small
articles, such as boleros, that will not have to withstand strain.
1. A woven or knit fabric usually cotton or wool, but may also be other
fibres, that has been subjected to heavy fulling or milling process,
which compresses, interlocks and shrinks the fabric, utilizing heat,
steam, pressure and hammering. The entangling the fibers on the surface
hides or disguises the weave structure beneath. The fabric may be of
any weight. The fabric is liable to shrink, if it is of wool or
unshrunk cotton. Felting is sometimes employed on cheap base fabrics to
give it more warmth and interest. Felts are also made from knitted
fabrics.
2. A non-woven, pressed felt fabric, made from a web or batt of wool,
hair, or fur, and sometimes in combination with certain manufactured
fibres; the fabric is subjected to a felting process, which includes
matting together and interlocking of surface fibres, employing heat,
moisture and pressure. |
| Felt |
A
cloth made of wool and fur often mixed with natural or synthetic fibres
through the action of heat, moisture, chemicals, and pressure; a firm
woven cloth of wool or cotton heavily napped and shrunk. An article of
clothing made of felt, namely a cloth made of wool and fur made through
the action of heat, moisture, chemicals, and pressure. |
| Felt |
1.
A non-woven fabric made directly from fibres bound together with heat,
moisture and mechanical pressure. Usually some wool or animal hair is
used.
2. A woven fabric that has been subjected to a heavy fulling process
which compresses and shrinks the fabric through heat and pressure
hiding the weave and entangling the fibres. |
| Felt |
A
fabric is a compact sheet of entangled, not woven wool, fur, sometimes
and cotton fibres. The felt is produced by processing a mat of fibres
with moisture, heat, and pressure. |
| Felt |
A
compact sheet of entangled, not woven wool, fur, sometimes cotton
fibers. The felt is produced by processing a mat of fibers with
moisture, heat, and pressure. |
| Feltability |
The
degree to which a sample of fibres will consolidate, in a specified
time by interlocking, under prescribed combinations of mechanical
action, chemical action, moisture, and heat. |
| Felter Fray |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as a faulty area in a fabric, caused by
local interference with the shed during weaving, that results in a
concentration of stitches or floats, and is sometimes accompanied by
broken ends. |
| Felting |
1.
A combination process used for the matting together of the surface
fibres of a woven, knit or non-woven fabric, usually made from animal
hair. Wool, and some other animal fibres possess a natural tendency to
felt or mat together under the influence of heat, moisture and
mechanical pressure. Certain types of woven and knitted wool fabrics
are given a felted finish which gives them the appearance of felt in
that no yarn structure is apparent and the fabric appears to be
composed entirely of fibres. Wool fibres in wet and soapy conditions
are milled until they are interlocked and matted and then pressure
applied. In this way, webs of wool fibres can be consolidated into a
non-woven fabric.
2. A fabric defect, which manifests as the accidental/unwanted matting together of fibres during processing, wear or washing.
|
| Felting |
The matting together of fibres during processing or wear (see milling in fabric finishing). |
| Felting Dimensional Change |
The irreversible dimensional change that occurs in a consolidated wool fabric when it is subjected to agitation in laundering. |
| Fents; Bribe |
The
term used to describe short lengths of fabric cut from an end, piece,
or lump of fabric. They may or may not be of imperfect material. |
| FEP |
Acronym for ‘Fluorinated ethylene-propylene’. |
| Fez |
A
brimless cone-shaped flat-crowned hat that usually has a tassel, is
usually made of red felt, and is worn especially by men in eastern
Mediterranean countries |
| FIBC |
Acronym
for ‘Flexible intermediate bulk container’. Large polypropylene woven
containers used for packaging and carrying granulated bulk goods. |
| Fiberfill |
A
filling specially prepared for use in pillows, comforters and furniture
upholstery. Most fiberfill produced today is made of polyester.
Polyester is used predominantly for fiberfill since it retains its loft
longer and better than natural fibres. |
| Fiberfill |
Fibre batting used as a backing in a quilted fabric or in a sandwich with other fabrics. Used in outerwear, bedspreads. |
| Fibranne |
The genetic French term for spun viscose yarns. |
| Fibranne |
A fabric made of spun-rayon yarn. |
| Fibranne |
A French term for Viscose
|
| Fibranne |
A French term for Viscose rayon. |
| Fibre Fiber |
A
generic term used to describe, any one of the various types of matter
that form the fundamental, smallest and complete element of a textile
material and which is characterised by having fineness, strength,
flexibility and a high ratio of length to thickness. The other
properties that can affect the performance of a textile fibre include
elasticity, crimp, moisture absorption, reaction to heat, sunlight, the
various chemicals applied during processing, laundering, dry cleaning
of the fabric, and resistance to insects and micro organisms. The wide
variation of such properties among textile fibres determines their
suitability for various uses. There are many natural and manufactured
fibres, which can be twisted into yarns and then used in the production
of a fabric. Fibre may be elongated single celled seed hair (e.g.
cotton); elongated multi-cellular structure (e.g. wool); an aggregation
of elongated cells (e.g. flax); or a man-made filament (e.g. nylon,
polyester, viscose). Fibre, the smallest textile component is a near
microscopic, hair-like substance. |
| Fibre |
A single strand or elongated filament of any connective tissue such as wool, cotton, silk, gold, glass, rayon, etc. |
| Fibre |
Any
raw material used for the creation of threads and woven or knitted into
textiles. Fibres can be natural (wool, cotton, silk) or synthetic
(nylon, polyester, acetate).
|
| Fibre |
(1) Textile raw material generally,
(2) A unit of matter characterized by flexibility, fineness, and high ratio of length to thickness.
|
| Fibre (flax) |
Flax cultivated mainly for fibre production as distinct from that cultivated for linseed-oil production.
|
| Fibre Appearance |
The
broad term used to describe, the colour, lustre, abrasion resistance,
pilling property, resiliency, dye affinity, and finish affinity of a
textile fibre. |
| Fibre Birefringence |
The
algebraic difference between the refractive index of a fibre measured
parallel to its axis and that measured perpendicularly to its axis. |
| Fibre Cohesion |
The resistance to separation of fibres in contact with one another. |
| Fibre Comfort |
An
important feature any fibre. The term comprises density, elongation,
elastic recovery, moisture regain, absorbency, static charge,
flexibility or pliability, and resiliency. |
| Fibre Content |
The type or types of fibres in any given fabric. |
| Fibre Content |
The term used to describe, the type and amount of fibre(s) used in making a textile product. |
| Fibre Crimp |
1. The waviness of a fibre expressed as waves or crimps per unit length.
2. The difference in distance between two points on the fibre as it
lies in an unstretched condition and the same two points when the fibre
is straightened under specific tension, expressed as a percentage of
the unstretched length.
|
| Fibre Characteristics |
The
fibre characteristics are classified as physical and chemical. The
physical characteristics of a fibre, include abrasion resistance,
capillarity, penetrability, cohesion, colour, composition, conductivity
of heat, crimp, diameter fineness, elasticity, elongation, breaking
point, flexibility, hydroscopic moisture, staple length, lustre,
microscopical appearance, resiliency, tensile strength (dry and wet),
surface texture, twist spinnability and wear resistance.
The chemical characteristics of a fibre, include reaction to bleaching
agents, dyes, light, metallic salts, mildew, oxidizing agents, to other
oxidation bleaches, reduction bleaches, strong acids, volatile organic
acids, strong alkalies, water, weak alkalies; swelling capability. |
| Fibre Cross-Section |
Fibres
are made in a variety of cross-sectional shapes, and this has very
important effect on fibre properties. The bending stiffness of a
flattened cross-section is less than that of a round cross sectional
area. The high bending stiffness of the round or bean-shaped
cross-section is particularly advantageous in carpet fibres,
contributing to resilience or spring-back. A flattened or dog-bone
cross-section, on the other hand, is conducive to a softness of touch
in fabrics made from this type of fibre. The dog-bone type also has a
distinctive effect on the reflection of light, and thus is often
noticeable as a sheen or lustre in certain fabric constructions. |
| Fibre Diagram |
A
graphical representation of the length characteristics of a sample of
staple fibres. It is a graph of length against cumulative frequency. |
| Fibre Density |
The mass per unit volume of the solid matter, which a fibre is composed of, measured under specified conditions. |
| Fibre Durability |
This
is one among the many salient properties of any fibre. Durability
includes tenacity, flexibility or pliability, cohesiveness, moisture
regain, absorbency, elastic recovery, elongation, thermal reactions,
chemical; reactions, and biological reactions. |
| Fibre Etch |
A
design is created by applying this substance to a blended fabric. It
eats cellulose fibres such as cotton, rayon, linen, and hemp. It does
not eat synthetics like polyester, or proteins like silk. It will work
on our rayon-silk blends (eats the rayon and leaves the silk backing)
as well as the hemp-silk. |
| Fibre Extent |
The
distance between two planes, which just enclose a fibre without
intercepting it, each plane being perpendicular to the general
direction of the yarn or other assembly of which the fibre forms a
part. |
| Fibrefill |
A
generic term used to describe a group of filler or stuffer fibres.
These are virgin man-made staple fibres especially engineered as to
linear density, cut length, and crimp for use as a textile filler
material in pillows, mattresses, upholstery, toys, sleeping bags,
comforters, quilts, and outerwear. |
| Fibre Fineness |
The
fineness of cotton, silk and man-made fibres is usually expressed in
terms of average linear density. The fineness of animal fibres is
usually expressed as the mean fibre diameter.
FIBRE DIAMETER RANGE:
Natural fibres are subject to growth irregularities and are, therefore,
not uniform in size or development. In natural fibres, fineness is a
main factor in determining quality. Fineness is measured in microns (a
micron is 1/1,000mm. or 1/25,400in.). |
| Fibre Finish |
The process of application of a coating of chemical compound(s) on a fibre to improve lubrication and prevent electrification. |
| Fibre Generic Name |
A
name used to distinguish a class of textile fibres from others. For
natural fibres, the distinguishing attribute is the fibre source; for
man-made fibres, the chemical difference, which often results in
distinctive property differences, is the main basis for classification;
other attributes are included where necessary. |
| Fibre Length |
The
distance between the ends of a fibre when measured under specified
conditions. While the fibre lengths vary widely in natural fibres, the
man-made are produced continuous filaments of indeterminate length. The
filaments may be cut in to required staple lengths for spinning.
|
| Fibre Length |
(a)
Crimped length, the distance between the ends of a fibre when
substantially freed from external restraint, measured with respect to
its general axis of orientation, (b) Fibre extent, the distance between
two planes which just enclose a fibre without intercepting it, each
plane being perpendicular to the direction of the yarn or other
assembly of which the fibre forms a part, (c) Staple length, a quantity
by which a sample of fibrous raw material is characterized as regards
its technically most important fibre length. Note: The staple length of
wool is usually taken as the length of the longer fibres in a hand
prepared tuft or 'staple' in its naturally crimped and wavy condition
(see crimp). With cotton, on the other hand, the staple length
corresponds very closely to the modal or most frequent length of the
fibres when measured in a straightened condition, (d) Span length, the
extent exceeded by a stated proportion of cotton fibres, e.g., 2.5%
span length is the length exceeded by only 2.5% of fibres by number. |
| Fibre Length Array |
A
series of individual fibres that are arranged in order based on fibre
length or a series of groups of fibres that represent essentially
uniform lengths within a group and which are arranged in order based on
group length. |
| Fibre Maintenance |
This
is one among the many salient properties of any fibre. Maintenance
includes strength or tenacity - wet and dry, resiliency, moisture
absorbency, abrasion resistance, and chemical resistance. |
| Fibre, Man-made |
A fibre manufactured by man as distinct from a fibre that occurs naturally. |
| Fibre Migration |
The change in the distance of a fibre or filament from the axis of a yarn during production. |
| Fibre Morphology |
The form and structure of a fibre, including its biological structure, shape, cross-section, and microscopic appearance. |
| Fibre Number |
The linear density of a fibre expressed in units, such as tex or denier. |
| Fibre Optics |
The
application, of the ability of transparent dielectric fibres of glass
or plastics to conduct light internally along their length in a
flexible path, to image transmission. |
| Fibre Quality Index |
A numerical value indicating the processability of cotton calculated from its fineness. |
| Fibre-reactive Dyes |
This
synthetic dye is used with natural fibres. Sometimes salt is used as
well as an alkali to assist in the dyeing process. The name "fibber
reactive" refers to the type of chemical bonding that occurs. In this
process the dye becomes part of the fibber. It works best on cellulose
fibres, but will also work on protein fibres (like silk) in an acidic,
rather than alkaline environment. Procion MX dye is the only dye that
works at room temperatures or in luke-warm dye baths making it ideal
for tie-dye and batik on cellulose fibres such as cotton. |
| Fibre, Regenerated |
A
man-made fibre produced from a naturally occurring fibre-forming
polymer by a process that includes regeneration of the original polymer
structure. |
| Fibre Rope |
A
compact but flexible, torsionally balanced, continuous structure of
natural or man-made fibres produced from strands which are twisted,
plaited, or braided together, generally greater than 5 mm. diameter and
which serves primarily to transmit a force from the point of origin to
the point of application. |
| Fibres |
Natural
or manufactured materials that serve as the building blocks for all
textile structures. Fibres are characterized by being extremely long in
relation to their diameters or widths.
|
| Fibre, Synthetic |
A
man-made fibre produced from a polymer built up by man from chemical
elements or compounds, in contrast to fibres made by man from naturally
occurring fibre-forming polymers. |
| Fibre Ultimate |
1. The term used to describe, that unit cell beyond which subdivision is not possible without loss of a fibre’s identity.
2. One of the unit botanical cells into which leaf and bast fibres can be disintegrated.
|
| Fibrid |
A
netted filamentary or fibrillar structure, substantially longer in one
dimension than in the other two that exhibits a capacity for mechanical
entanglement with other structures and much higher water-holding
capacity than fibres produced by conventional spinning means. Fibroids
are used as bonding elements in the production of wet-laid synthetic
papers. |
| Fibrillated |
A
finish, which causes tiny fibrils or fibrous elements to be spilt from
the fibres and protrude from the surface of the fabric. Results in a
frosted, hazy, laundered appearance and a soft hand. Common on lyocell
fabrics. |
| Fibrillated-film Fibre |
Staple fibre produced by cutting, chopping or stretch-breaking fibrillated yarn or fibrillated film tow.
|
| Fibrillated-film Tow |
An assembly of fibrillated textile films. |
| Fibrillation |
The
process of splitting a longitudinally oriented textile film or tape
into a network interconnected fibres. Note: Processes for producing
fibrillation may be divided into two groups, (a) those producing random
splitting to give a relatively coarse network, e.g., twisting, and, (b)
those producing controlled splitting to give a relatively fine network
e.g., by rapidly rotating pinned rollers. |
| Fibrillation |
1.
The longitudinal splitting of a fibre or filament to give either
micro-fine surface hairs or a complete breakdown into sub-micron
fibres. In fabrics for apparel, fibrillation can be used to create a
variety of surface textures and attractive aesthetics.
2. The
process of splitting of a longitudinally oriented textile fibre, film
or tape into a network of interconnected fibres. Different methods are
employed for fibrillation depending on the required quality of fibrils,
(a) random splitting methods for producing a relatively coarse network,
e.g. twisting, and (b) controlled splitting methods for producing a
relatively fine network, e.g. by rapidly rotating pinned rollers. 3.
The term can also refer to a fibrillar failure or film structure. |
| Fibrilling Off |
The involuntary removal of fibre or lint from yarns during processing.
|
| Fibrogram |
A
graph showing the length distribution in a sample of cotton fibres as
determined by using the fibrograph instrument. Statistically it is the
curve representing the second cumulation (integral) of the frequency
distribution. |
| Fibrograph |
An
apparatus, which includes a photoelectric eye that scans a sample of
raw stock fibres quickly and indicates the percentage of fibre lengths.
|
| Fibroin |
The
principal component of silk after the gum has been discharged; it is a
hard protein containing carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen. |
| Fibronaire |
An
instrument used is employed to determine the micronaire reading of raw
cotton fibres using the ‘porous plug’ air flow technique. |
| Fibrous |
The term used to mean: (a) containing fibres, (b) consisting of fibres or (c) like fibres. |
| Fichu |
A traditional large neckerchief is worn around the neck and shoulders. |
| Filament |
1.A
continuous fibre of indefinite length. It is long enough to be used in
a fabric without increasing its length by adding other fibres on to it.
All man-made fibres are produced as filaments; they can be several
kilometres long.
2. In the manufacturing of a man-made fibre, the single continuous
strand of spinning solution as it is extruded from a spinneret orifice
and coagulated in an suitable medium; manmade filaments.
3. The single unit, which is extruded by a silkworm in spinning its
cocoon. The silkworm actually secretes two filaments simultaneously,
which are cemented or glued together with the sericin (silk gum). The
cocoon of a silkworm can contain about 3000 metres of continuous twin
filaments. |
| Filamentation |
The
term used to describe, a fibrous or hairy appearance caused by breaking
of filaments on the surface of a yarn package or fabric. |
| Filament-blend Yarn |
IA
filament yarn produced by twisting together of filaments of dissimilar
types of fibres (e.g. viscose and nylon) the filaments being more or
less randomly blended over the cross-section of the yarn. From this
yarn, new ranges of lightweight fabrics, like crêpe, georgettes, fine
twills and jerseys can be produced, which combine the aesthetic appeal
of viscose with the strength of nylon. The woven fabrics acquire a
rustle and scroop, like that of silk and they are easy-care too, as it
will not require a lot of attention during and after washing; may be
ironed if necessary, but on the whole have good resistance to creasing.
The production of blended yarn in continuous filament form represents a
major breakthrough, since in earlier days blending was possible only in
fibres in staple form. |
| Filament-blend Yarn |
A
filament yarn, which contains separate filaments of two distinct types,
the filaments being more or less randomly blended over the
cross-section of the yarn. |
| Filament Count |
The term used to describe, the number of filaments that make up a yarn |
| Filament Fibre |
A long, continuous fibre that can be measured in metres or yards or, in case of man-made fibres, in kilometres or miles. |
| Filament Yarn |
A
yarn composed of one or more continuous filaments, that run essentially
the whole length of the yarn assembled with or without twist. Yam made
of a single filament is called monofilament yarn and yarn made from
several filaments is called multifilament yarn.. |
| Filature Silk |
The
term used to describe raw silk, which has been reeled by machinery, as
distinct from silk prepared by hand in cottage industry. |
| Filet Net |
1.
A lace construction, employed in furnishing and Leavers lace, in which
a square-mesh net consists of parallel warp threads bound by one or
more bobbin threads, and mesh threads that alternately pillar and throw
at right angles to the warp threads. Pattern may be added by more
frequent throwing of the mesh threads or by throws of a further set of
patterning threads that pillar when not patterning.
2. A lace
construction, employed in warp knits, similar to the above except that
a knitted chain of loops in the warp thread binds the mesh threads and
patterning threads, if any.
3. A net woven in such a way that the yarns are locked at the intersections.
. |
| Filler |
1.
The term used to describe, the non-fibrous materials, such as insoluble
clays or gypsum, together with starches, gums, etc., that is added to a
fabric to increase its weight or to modify its appearance or to improve
its handle. |
| Filler Fabric |
In
tyre textiles, a rubber-coated cross-woven fabric, which is placed
around the bead section assembly and serves to reinforce the join
between apex and casing plies. |
| Filling |
1)
Non-substantive and generally insoluble materials, such as china clay,
gypsum, etc., added to fabrics together with starches or gums during
finishing to add weight or to modify their appearance and handle. Note
1: This term is usually applied only to cellulosic textiles (see also
loading). Finishes in which starches or gums are used without the
addition of insoluble materials are sometimes referred to as 'fillings'
but are more correctly described as 'assisted finishes'. Note 2. The
equivalent term in North America is 'filler'.
(2) A synonym, used in North America, for weft yams (see weft)
(3) See Wadding thread.
|
| Filling |
The yarn running from one border to another in a woven fabric. |
| Filling or Weft |
The
yarns that are woven across the loom, with Weft being the English term
and Filling being the American term. The individual yarns are also
known as Picks. |
| Filling-Back Serge |
TA serge fabric woven with one warp yarn and two weft yarns. It has same characteristic as French-back serge.
|
| Filling Band |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as a dissimilar appearance than normal,
across the width, due to any change occurring in a large number of weft
picks. |
| Filling Bar |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as a dissimilar appearance than normal,
across the width, due to any change occurring in a limited number of
weft picks. |
| Filling Elongation |
The stretch measured at right angles to the warp direction of the fabric. |
| Filling-Faced; Filling Flush |
The term used to describe a type of weave, in which the face of the fabric is formed by the weft yarns. |
| Filling Faced Twill |
A twill fabric, in which the weft yarns float on the face of the fabric more than the warp yarns.
|
| Filling Material |
The
term used to describe, feathers or down of any kind or type, and other
natural or synthetic materials used for stuffing pillows, quilts,
cushions, paddings, etc. |
| Filling Pile Fabric |
A
fabric formed by floating extra picks on the surface. These floats are
cut in or out of the loom to form the tufts of pile (e.g. corduroy).
The filling-pile yarn, appearing on the surface of a fabric, need not
always to be cut, since some of the materials are used as an uncut pile
fibre. |
| Filling Rib Weave |
A fabric in which the warp yarns are grouped together to form ribs running in the weft direction.
. |
| Filling Sateen |
A sateen fabric, in which the weft yarns float on the face of the fabric more than the warp yarns.
|
| Filling Satin |
A satin fabric, in which the weft yarns float on the face of the fabric more than the warp yarns.
Filling Snarl
|
| Filtration |
The
process of retaining soil particles by a geo textile while allowing the
passage of water. The geo textile allows the water and finer soil
particles to pass through while retaining those of a coarser nature. A
filter cake builds up on the face of the geo textile and this is where
the actual filtration of the soil particles occurs. In order to perform
this function a geo textile must be able to convey a certain amount of
water across the plane of the geo textile throughout its design life. |
| Final Pressing Defects In Garment |
Given below is a list of probable defects that might occur in a garment, during the final pressing stage:
¡ Burned or scorched garments
¡ Water spots
¡ Gloss
¡ Flattened nap or surface
¡ Broken zips, buttons, etc
¡ Creases not correctly formed
¡ Fabric of finished garment not smooth, wrinkle free and showing its proper appearance
¡ Edges wavy and stretched, or thick and cockled
¡ Garments not thoroughly dried
¡ Pockets not smooth
¡ Lining shows pleats, creases, wrinkles, shine
¡ Garment not correctly moulded either in detail or in total silhouette
|
| Fineness |
A
relative measure of a fibre’s size, diameter, linear density, or mass
per unit length expressed in a variety of units. Fibre diameter is very
important in the determination of the end use of the fibres. Fineness
does much to determine the properties and characteristics of the
particular fibres, whether to be worked alone or in conjunction with
other fibres in blends, mixtures, combinations, etc. |
| Fingering-weight Yarns |
These
yarns knit to a gauge of 7 or more stitches per inch on size 0, 1, 2,
or 3 US needles. These yarns have approximately 1700-2300 yards per
pound, or more, depending upon fineness. This category would include
yarns with names like lace weight, baby weight, fine, fingering. Yarns
of this weight are used for lightweight fabrics. |
| Fingering Yarns |
A soft yarn of two or more plies produced for hand knitting.
|
| Finger Mark; Pressure Mark |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as an irregular spot showing variation
in picks per unit length for a limited width, caused usually during
spreading of warp ends while loom is in motion, pressure upon cloth
between reed and take-up drum. |
| Finger Pressing |
The operation of applying pressure on damp fabric with fingers to shape and mould ruffles, pleats, neckbands, creases, etc. |
| Fingertip Towel |
A
textile product having fringes and side hems or selvedges. It is
smaller than a hand towel, generally used as decoration and to dry
hands. |
| Finish |
A
term used broadly in the paint, paper, printing ink, leather, plastics
and textile industries to include the added materials, the finishing
processes employed, and the final result, (1) a substance or mixture of
substances added to a substrate at any stage in the process to impart
desired properties, (2) the type of process, physical or chemical,
applied to a substrate to produce a desired effect, (3) such
properties, e.g., smoothness, drape, lustre, gloss or crease resistance
produced by (1) and/or (2) above, (4) the state of the substrate as it
leaves a previous process, (5) the quality or appearance of a paint or
printing-ink film, (6) to apply or produce a finish. |
| Finish |
A type of treatment applied to thread to protect it from needle heat and to give it good sewing characteristics. |
| Finish |
A decorative or functional coating or substance added to fabrics. For example, metallic or fire resistant finishes.
|
| Finished Fabric Weight |
The mass per unit area expressed in grams per square metre (ounces per
square yard), grams per linear metre (ounces per linear yard), or
inversely as meters per kilogram (linear yards per pound), or square
meters per kilogram (square yards per pound).
|
| Finished Goods |
The term used to describe, converted fabrics. These are fabrics that
have passed through all processes required for making the goods
suitable for sale to the ultimate consumer. |
| Finishing Bar |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as an uneven appearance across entire
width of fabric usually caused by machine stoppage during processing. |
| Fire |
The uncontrolled conflagration in which materials are destroyed by
burning as evidenced by flames of varying size and shape, and a high
intensity heat source.
|
| Fireproof Fabric |
A
fabric, which will not support a flame; the term shall be used only for
100 % fireproof fabric. Now many fabrics achieve this property by using
fibres that have this property built directly into the polymer. |
| Fire Retardant |
A
coating, which will reduce flame, spread, resist ignition, when exposed
to high temperature and insulate the substrate and delay damage to the
substrate. |
| Fire Retardant Treatment |
The
term used to describe a group of operations, including spraying,
padding, dipping, brushing, or otherwise applying a material onto the
textile material at any stage of manufacture, which has as its primary
or secondary purpose the reduction of its flammability.
|
| Firmness Factor |
A
term used to describe fabric setting, which takes into account both the
thread spacing relative to the yarn diameter (cover factor) and the
frequency of the interlacings. It may be referred to as a percentage of
the maximum possible cover factor for a particular weave structure
(percentage cover). For plain weave, it is identical with the cover
factor; for other weaves, e.g. for twill weaves, it is the cover factor
multiplied by a value characteristic of the weave and indicative of the
frequency of the interlacings. |
| First Generation Man-Made Firsts |
An
inspection classification for fabrics that meet established commercial
standards for minimum number of defects and imperfections. |
| Fish Eye Cloth |
A
smooth wool or linen fabric, woven on a dobby loom in large geometric
patterns of uniform spots that has a centre point that suggest a fish’s
eye, and hence the name. The small dimples or indentations of
diamond-shaped figures, each with a dot in the centre, are fashioned by
the weave and colours on the surface of the fabric. Used for fine
quality suiting for men and women. . |
| Fishnet |
A
coarse, relatively heavy, weft-knitted fabric resembling, a fine-meshed
net construction, generally made by plating one thick and one thin
yarn. The thick yarn is floated across the thin yarn to give either an
all-over or patterned openwork effect. Used for apparel and trimming. |
| Fishtail Train |
Fitted around the hips and flares out from the knee to the hemline. |
| Fitted Point Sleeve |
A long, narrow sleeve that tapers to a point which rests against the back of the hand.
|
| Fitted Sheet |
A
sheeting product usually made with boxed corners, sometimes
elasticised, with shape and size to conform to the contours of the
mattress and used for covering the mattress on a bed. |
| Fixed Retainer |
In
zippers, a device permanently attached to the retainer pin at the
bottom of one stringer. The fixed retainer has an opening shaped to fit
the separable pin. In order to close, the separable pin is passed
through the slider body and then inserted into this opening. The fixed
retainer holds or retains the two stringers in alignment for
interlocking.
|
| Fixer |
A chemical assistant, which helps the dye bond with the fibre. |
| Fixing |
Fixing
describes the process of dye or paint attaching to fibres of the
material. This is done in many ways such as ironing, using soda ash
fixer, steaming, using a fixative, etc. Each dye and paint has its own
method for fixing. |
| Flaked Yarn |
A
plied novelty yarn, in which flakes or tufts of roving appear at
intervals. The tufts are not part of the single yarns, but are held in
place by the ply twist. |
| Flame |
A
hot, luminous zone of gas or matter in gaseous suspension, or both,
that is undergoing combustion that is relatively constant in size and
shape, and that produces a relatively low heat flux. |
| Flame |
A strong reddish orange.
Flaxen, resembling flax especially as in a pale soft strawy colour.
. |
| Flame Resistant |
Refers
to a fabric, which will burn only when the source of the flame remains
lit, and will quickly self extinguish when the source is removed.
Standards for flame resistance are generally set according to the end
use of the fabric. Flame resistance may be the result of the nature of
the fibre or of a chemical finish put on the fabric |
| Flame Resistant Fabric Flameproof Fabric |
A
fabric that either will not burn, or will burn so slowly, as to allow
time to extinguish the flame or discard the burning fabric and thus
obviate severe injury to the wearer. Standards for flame resistance are
generally set according to the end use of the fabric. Flame resistance
may be the result of the nature of the fibre or of a chemical finish
put on the fabric. |
| Flame Retardant FR |
The
term used to describe, the chemical (s) applied to a fabric, or
incorporated into the fibre at the time of production, which
significantly reduces a fabric’s flammability. |
| Flame Spread |
In flammability testing of fabric, the propagation of a flame away from the source of ignition. |
| Flammability |
Those characteristics of a material that pertain to its relative ease of ignition and relative ability to sustain combustion. |
| Flammability Of Fibres |
Linen,
cotton, viscose, jute and kapok are highly flammable fibres. They catch
alight quickly and continue to burn even when withdrawn from the flame.
If the actual cloth fire is extinguished, there may be an afterglow,
which can re-ignite the fabric or set fire to any material nearby.
Acetate does not burn as readily as viscose, but the hot melt may cause
burns. Wool and silk are less flammable fibres. They burn slowly and do
not continue to burn or leave an afterglow when withdrawn from the
flame.
The synthetic fibres melt, but they do not burn unless in contact with
a flame for some time. The hot melt, falling away from the fabric, may
cause severe burns. Asbestos and glass are non-flammable fibres. They
normally are not used for clothing. There are modacrylic and aramid
fibres that have extremely good flame resistant properties. |
| Flammable Textile |
The term used to describe any combustible textile that burns with a flame. |
| Flammé |
1. Woollen dress fabric made from printed slub yarns.
2. Plain weave fabric produced from yarn-dyed linen warp and cotton weft, used for tablecloths and curtains.
|
| Flange Lock Slider |
In
zippers, a slider with notches in the flanges of the slider that block
the shoulders of the elements when the stringers above the slider are
pulled apart, thus preventing further separation of the chain. |
| Flannel |
A
light to medium weight, all wool or worsted woven fabric, in plain or
twill weave, with a slightly napped surface and good draping
properties. During finishing, it may be slightly milled and raised by
brushing on both sides to lift the fibre ends out of the base fabric so
that the weave is partially or even completely obscured. The nap is
normally non-directional. It makes excellent tailored clothes; it is
soft, warm and elastic with all the properties of woollen cloth. Cheap
types of flannel are made using cotton warp and a thick woollen weft
containing re-manufactured wool. Used for blazers, trousers, women’s
suits, men’s suits, pyjamas, etc. |
| Flannel |
A soft lightweight cotton fabric in plain or twill weave with a slight nap on one or both sides. Also made in wool. |
| Flannel |
Fibre:
Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon.
Wool Flannel
Weave: Usually twill, some plain.
Characteristics: Originated in Wales. Soft, with a napped surface that
partially cancels the weave. Dull finish. Made in a variety of weights.
More loosely woven than worsted flannel with a higher nap and bulkier
hand. Shrinks if not pre-shrunk. Sags with wear, unless underlined.
Does not shine or hold a crease. Watch pressing - if pressed too hard,
it flattens in the nap. Comes in many colours, weights, and fancy
effects. Sometimes has a prickly feel when worn.
Uses: Blazers, dresses, skirts, suits and coats. Boys suits, jackets,
and shirts. Shirts and sportswear. |
| Flannel |
Soft
twilled wool or worsted fabric with a loose texture and a slightly
napped surface; a plain or twill woven cotton fabric napped and of soft
yarns simulating the texture of wool flannel; a stout cotton fabric
usually napped on one side. [Plural] flannel underwear; outer garments,
especially men's trousers, of flannel, namely soft twilled wool,
cotton, or worsted fabric with a loose texture and a slightly napped
surface. The cotton flannel must be made from cotton with a fibre long
enough to hold in the yarn, otherwise the fibres will shed from the
flannel or pill into little balls on the surface. |
| Flannelette |
A
fabric made from cotton warp and soft-spun cotton weft, the fabric
being subsequently raised on both sides to give an imitation of the
true woollen flannel. The weave may be plain, plain with double-end
warp, or twill. Note 1: it may be woven grey and dyed or printed, or it
may be woven from dyed yarns. Note 2. Fibres other than cotton are
sometimes present in the weft yarn. If these exceed 7% they are named
in the description, e.g., cotton-rayon flannelette.
|
| Flannelette |
Fibre:
Cotton
Weave: Plain and twill.
Characteristics: A heavy, soft material with a napped finish, usually
only on one side. In cheaper qualities the nap comes off. Launders
well, easy to manipulate and is warm to wear. There are many types on
the market. It may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven in coloured
stripes.
Uses: Infants and children's wear, men's, women's and children's
sleeping wear, pocket linings, quilts, and shirtings. |
| Flannelette |
AA
light to medium weight imitation of wool flannel fabric, made from
cotton, viscose or mixtures; it is usually raised on both sides. The
fabric is made in plain or simple twill weave, employing soft spun weft
picks so as to provide a fuzzy, warm surface and soft handle. It is
made in a variety of colours in plains, stripes and printed styles. It
wears well, but creases easily. Warm, washable and comparatively
cheaper, it is very popular fabric for shirts, children’s wear,
pyjamas, sheets, etc. |
| Flannelette Sheeting |
A warm, slightly brushed sheeting fabric made from cotton; highly inflammable. |
| Flash Spinning |
A
modification of the accepted dry-spinning method in which a solution of
a polymer is extruded at a temperature well above the boiling point of
the solvent such that on emerging from the spinneret evaporation occurs
so rapidly that the individual filaments are disrupted into a highly
fibrillar form. |
| Flash Spinning |
A
modification of the dry spinning method, in which a solution of a
polymer is extruded at a temperature well above its boiling point, such
that, on emerging from the spinneret, evaporation occurs so rapidly
that the individual filaments are disrupted into fine fibrillar form. |
| Flash Spun Bonding |
A
major variation of spun bonding, where polypropylene is
solvent-dissolved and then pumped through holes into a chamber. The
solvent is then flashed off, and highly oriented filaments are
produced. |
| Flat Crepe |
Also
called French Crepe or Lingerie Crepe but not exactly the same. It is
the flattest of all the crepes with only a very slight pebbled or crepe
effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in filling; warp has ordinary
twist. It is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It
is very lightweight - 2 times as many ends as picks. It may be white,
coloured, or printed. Most of it launders well. |
| Flat Crepe |
Also
called French Crepe or Lingerie Crepe but not exactly the same. It is
the flattest of all the crepes with only a very slight pebbled or crepe
effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in filling; warp has ordinary
twist. It is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It
is very lightweight - 2 times as many ends as picks. It may be white,
coloured, or printed. Most of it launders well.
Uses: Accessories, blouses, dress goods, negligees, pyjamas and other
pieces of lingerie and linings.
|
| Flat Curing |
In the durable press process, the curing of a fabric done in a flat piece condition |
| Flat-felled Seam |
A
complex seam formed on the outside of an object with raw edges enclosed
and two rows of machine stitching visible on the face side. A
flat-felled seam is made by (a) placing two pieces of fabric with back
sides together, (b) stitching on the 15 mm seamline, (c) trimming one
half of one seam allowance, (d) pressing the two seam allowances to one
side of the article having the wider allowance on top, (e) folding the
wider, untrimmed seam allowance under until its raw edge abuts with
that of the narrower seam allowance, and (f) topstitching along the
folded edge through two layers of seam allowance and a layer of the
object. The two rows of stitching visible on the face side are the
seamline and the topstitching through the seam allowance and object. |
| Flat Knit Fabric |
1. A fabric constructed on a flatbed-knitting machine, having needles in a straight line unlike in a circular knitting machine.
2. In the underwear trade the term ‘flat knit’ is used to indicate a fabric with a flat surface as opposed to a ribbed surface.
|
| Flat Knitting Machine |
A
weft-knitting machine having straight needle beds carrying
independently operated latch needles. Note 1: Rib machines (V-type)
have two needle beds, which are opposed to each other in inverted-v
formation. Note 2: Purl machines have two needle beds horizontally
opposed in the same plane. |
| Flat Knitting Machine |
A weft-knitting machine having straight needle beds carrying independently operated, latch needles. There are different types:
(a) A rib machine (V-type) having two needle beds, which are opposed to each other in an inverted-V formation and
(b) A purl machines have two needle beds horizontally opposed in the same plane.
|
| Flat Metal Yarn |
A
yarn consisting of one or more continuous lengths of metal strip or
incorporating one or more continuous length(s) as a major component.
Note 1: A notable example is a singles metal yarn in banknotes, which
may be 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) wide and 0.08 mm (0.003 in.) thick. For this
purpose, it must be without twist, i.e., flat throughout its length in
the banknote. Analysis of the metal is proof of the authenticity of a
banknote. Note 2: Twist inserted in flat metal yarns may form irregular
facets, which reflect light accordingly to give decorative effects in
fabrics. |
| Flat Metal Yarn |
. A yarn consisting of a single continuous length of metal strip.
2. A yarn consisting of several continuous lengths of metal strips.
3. A yarn incorporating one or more continuous lengths of metal strip as major component.
The twist inserted in flat metal yarns may form irregular facets, which
reflect light accordingly to give attractive decorative effects in
fabrics.
|
| Flat Screen Printed |
In
screen printing a separate screen is created for each colour. The open
mesh part of the screen corresponds to the area to be printed in that
colour. The areas where colour is not to pass through are blocked. Dye
paste is forced through the open mesh area with a squeegee. The fabric
is then moved or the screen replaced to allow printing of the next
colour. In flat screen-printing the screens are in the form of flat
panels, the width of which is the same as the repeat of the pattern.
Flat screen-printing allows for greater flexibility than rotary
printing as the panel size can often be adjusted to various repeat
sizes. |
| Flat Screen Printing |
A
mechanised printing method, in which the fabric is printed with a
number of rectangular shaped, flat screens, working in a line. The
widths of these screen panels are the same as the repeat of the
pattern. A separate screen is created for each colour. Dye paste is
forced through the open mesh with a squeegee. The fabric is then moved
or the screen replaced to allow printing of the next colour. The
process is repeated. Flat screen printing allows for greater
flexibility than rotary printing as the panel size can often be
adjusted to various repeat sizes. |
| Flax
|
A
natural vegetable bast fibre fibre obtained from the stalk of flax
plant of the species linum usitaitissimum. It is the basic fibre from
which linen yarns and are made. Flax is a fine but irregular thickness
fibre, coarser and very much longer than cotton. It can be up to 900 mm
in length, while the colour can range from light ivory to dark tan or
grey. Preparation of the fibres includes splitting bundles of fibres as
obtained from the stalks into individual long fibres and removing the
waste and broken fibres. Yarns spun from flax tend to be uneven because
of the length and variable thicknesses of the fibres. Flax is a
cellulosic fibre, as is cotton, but it has a higher wax content, which
together with a higher degree of crystallinity of the fibre, gives this
distinctive lustre associated with linen. Purification of flax fibre
requires more numerous treatments, when compared with cotton. Recent
developments in the processing of linen can alter the molecular
structure of the fibres, which enables them to be purified, bleached,
crimped and cut to staple lengths ready for blending as spun yarns with
other fibres such as wool, cotton, polyester or acrylic. |
| Flax |
Is
often considered the oldest fibre used in the Western world. Remnants
of flax fabric (linen) have been found in excavations at the historic
lake regions of Switzerland, which date back to about 10,000 B.C.
Although the archaeologists dispute the origins of flax, some believe
that it came from the region of Tepe Sabz, Iran (Mesopotamia), ca. 5500
- 5000 B.C. By 4,000 B.C. the Egyptians were cultivating and processing
flax and ancient wall carvings show labourers harvesting flax. Examples
have been found that were spun so fine that more than 360 threads
joined together to form one warp thread. The rather incredible
characteristics and properties of flax are once again being recognized.
Although linen has been primarily considered as a fashion fabric in
modern times, the industry and the markets are beginning to understand
its potential as a performance fibre, delivering high strength and
durability, abrasion resistance and high moisture regain, as well as a
luxurious hand and appearance. |
| Flax |
Fibre:
Weave:
Characteristics: This fibre is taken from the stalk of the linum
usitaatissimum plant. It is a long, smooth fibre and is cylindrical in
shape. It's length varies from 6 to 40 inches but on average is between
15 and 25 inches. Its colour is usually off-white or tan and due to its
natural wax content, flax has excellent lustre. It is considered to be
the strongest of the vegetable fibres and is highly absorbent, allowing
moisture to evaporate with speed. It conducts heat well and can be
readily boiled. Its washability is great, however, it has poor
elasticity and does not easily return to its original shape after
creasing. Uses: Apparel fabric. When processed into fabric it is called
linen. It is also used for tablecloths, napkins, doilies, twine,
aprons, fishing tackle, and nets. |
| Flax Fibre Bundle |
One
of the aggregates of ultimate fibre that run from the base of the stem
up to the top of the branches of flax straw. They are each composed of
large numbers of ultimate fibres overlapping each other. |
| Flax Tow
|
Short
flax fibres that are removed during the scutching or hackling
processes, (a) rug tow: short flax fibre removed during scutching and
containing extraneous woody material, (b) re-scutched tow: short fibre
which has been cleaned in a tow-scutching apparatus, (c) machine tow:
short fibre which has been removed from scutched long flax during the
hackling process. |
| Flax Tow |
The short flax fibres that are removed during the scutching or hackling processes. |
| Flèchage |
The
term used to describe, the operation of course shaping in knitting. The
term is increasingly used to define two and three-dimensional shaping
of knitted fabric by increasing and/or decreasing the length of
succeeding knitted courses to a pre-planned series. Beret knitting is
also a term used to describe this process. The term has its origin from
the French word for ‘wedge’. |
| Fleece |
1. The fibrous covering of a sheep or similar animal.
2. The wool shorn from any sheep, or from any animal in the wool
category. Fleece wool means clipped wool, as contrasted with pulled
wool.
3. The term is also used to describe a fabric that has a deep
fleece-like napped surface that may be wool, cotton, acrylic, nylon or
other man-made fibres. Used for heavy coats. |
| Fleece |
A
fabric with a thick, soft nap or pile resembling sheep's wool. Commonly
a knit which has been brushed and sheared but may be woven. |
| Fleece |
A soft bulky deep-piled knitted or woven fabric used chiefly for
clothing. Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping
with wire brushes or with a pile weave. This provides air space giving
good insulating properties without too much weight. The interlacings
are covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time, but good quality
cloth gives good wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes. Material
is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be difficult to
manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool taken from a
sheep at shearing time. |
| Fleece |
Fibre:
Wool specialty hair fibres, cotton.
Weave: Plain, twill, pile or knitted.
Characteristics: Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily
napping with wire brushes or with a pile weave. This provides air space
giving good insulating properties without too much weight. The
inter-lacings are well covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time,
but good quality cloth gives good wear. Range from cheap to expensive
clothes. Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be
difficult to manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool
taken from a sheep at shearing time.
Uses: Mostly used for coats for men, women, and children. |
| Fleecy Fabric (weft-knitted) |
A
weft-knitted fabric composed of three separate yarns; a ground yarn of
normal count, a finer binding yarn, and a thicker fleecy yarn which is
held into the fabric at close intervals by the binding yarn. The fleecy
yarn appears on the back of plain-knitted fabric and presents an ideal
surface for brushing or raising.. |
| Fleecy Fabric |
1.
A fabric that resembles wool fleece in appearance and handle, which is
made in a variety of weights and qualities and are mainly used for
coats. The fabric may be cotton, or acrylic or wool. In cheaper
qualities, the nap wears out. Garments can be refurbished with light
hot iron or the fleece brushed up on the right side. 2. The term is
also used to describe any fabric having a fine, soft, open, and raised
structure. |
| Fleecy Knit Fabric |
A weft-knitted fabric composed of three separate yarns; a ground yarn
of normal count, a finer binding yarn, and a thicker fleecy yarn which
is held into the fabric at close intervals by the binding yarn. The
fleecy yarn appears on the back of plain-knitted fabric and presents an
ideal surface for brushing or napping.
|
| Flipper |
A flat rubber shoe with the front expanded into a paddle used in skin diving.
|
| Float |
1.
The portion of a warp yarn that extends over two or more adjacent weft
yarns or the portion of a weft yarn that extends over two or more
adjacent warp yarns in weaving, in order to form certain motif effects.
2. In a warp-knitted fabric, a length of yarn not received by a needle
and connecting two loops of non-consecutive courses. |
| Floating |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as a warp end that extends unbound over
two or more weft picks, instead of intersecting with them, or a weft
pick that extends unbound over two or more warp ends, instead of
intersecting with them, in a woven structure. The defect is caused
mostly by breaking out of ends or picks, unclean warping or imperfect
harness. |
| Flock |
A
material obtained by reducing textile fibres to fragments as by
cutting, tearing, or grinding. There are two main usages, (a) stuffing
flock: fibres in entangled small masses or beads, usually of irregular
broken fibres, obtained as a by-product, as, for example, in the
milling, cropping, or raising of wool fabric, and mainly used for
stuffing, padding, or upholstery, (b) coating flock: cut or ground
fibres used for application to yarn, fabric, paper, wood, metal, or
wall surfaces prepared with an adhesive (see also electrostatic
flocking). |
| Flock |
1.
The waste fibre obtained from wool during the different finishing
processes.
2. The very short fragmented fibre, obtained by chopping, tearing, or
grinding, of textile fibres, intended for application to a substrate as
a partial or complete surface covering or as filler. |
| Flocked |
A
method of applying short fibres rather than colour to the entire
surface of the fabric. The fabric may be printed with an adhesive and
the fibre dusted, onto it, or the fibres may be contained in the
adhesive or the fibres may be applied electrostatically to hold them
erect. |
| Flocked Fabric |
A
light and buoyant fabric, in which the right side has tufts of flock
stuck to it in the shape of dots or other small patterns. The flocks
applied may be of self or contrast colour to that of the fabric and the
flock may also be of a different type fibre to that of the fabric. |
| Flocked Wool |
A wool fabric, to the backside of which, extra amounts of fibres are
added by a steaming process; it is done for increasing the weight the
fabric.
|
| Flocking |
.
A process of applying a type of raised decoration to the surface of a
fabric. The motifs are printed on the fabric with the aid of an
adhesive, and then finely chopped fibres are applied by means of
dusting, air-brushing, or electrostatic charges. The fibres adhere only
to the areas where the adhesive has been applied, and the excess fibres
are removed by blowing or other mechanical means. Electrostatic
flocking method is of recent origin and has become very popular and is
widely used. Flocking is done on practically any type of fabric and it
is usually washable and dry cleanable. Uses include small emblems on
dresses, decorative materials, fashion fabrics, floor covering, etc.
2. The term is also used to describe the operation of steaming fibres on to the back of a woollen fabric to increase its weight.
|
| Flocking |
Is
the application of fine particles to adhesive coated surfaces. The
majority of flocking done worldwide uses finely cut natural or
synthetic fibres. A flocked finish imparts a decorative and/or
functional characteristic to the surface. The varieties of materials
that are applied to numerous surfaces through different flocking
methods create a wide range of end products. The flocking process is
used on items ranging from retail consumer goods to products with high
technology military applications. Historians claim that flocking can be
traced back to circa 1000 BC, when the Chinese used resin glue to bond
natural fibres to fabrics. Fibre dust was strewn onto adhesive coated
surfaces to produce flocked wall coverings in Germany during the middle
ages. In France, flocked wall coverings became popular during the reign
of Louis XIV. |
| Flock Printed |
A
method of printing resulting in short fibres, rather than colour, being
applied in a design to the surface of the fabric. The fabric may be
printed with an adhesive and the fibre dusted onto it, or the fibres
may be contained in the adhesive, or the fibres may be applied
electrostatically to hold them erect.
|
| Flock Printing |
A
method of fabric ornamentation in which adhesive is printed on and then
finely chopped fibres are applied all over by means of dusting-on, an
air-blast, or electrostatic attraction. The fibres adhere only to the
printed areas and are removed from the unprinted areas by mechanical
action. |
| Floodstroke |
A
single stroke or passage of the squeegee, made while the screens are
raised from the table, in flat screen-printing. This fills the mesh
with print-paste before the screen is lowered to cloth level and the
usual squeegee stroke is made; thus in the time of a single stroke
almost double the quantity of print-paste is applied to the cloth. |
| Flopped |
A
form of packaging for a long length of fabric. The fabric is folded
backwards and forwards on itself over a dimension between 0.6 m and 1
m. The finished form is like a rectangular box. Flopped fabric is
considered to be in a more relaxed state than rolled fabric |
| Floss |
1. The term used to describe, the very short tangled fibres present in waste silk.
2. The term is also used to describe a silky embroidery yarn.
|
| Flounce |
1. A ruffled drop on a bedcovering.
2. The hanging strips of material, which are normally sewn to the hem of a skirt.
3. A band of cloth or lace fluting around a garment to which it is attached only by its upper edge.
|
| Fluff Fibre |
A
relatively inexpensive cellulosic fibre derived from wood pulp that has
excellent bulk, softness, and high absorbency. Widely used in the
manufacture of disposable towels and tissues. Fluff is made via an ‘air
laid’ non-woven process by fiberizing a sheet of wood-pulp fibres.
|
| Fluid-jet Loom |
A
type of loom in which conveyance of the weft pick is accomplished by
propelling it with a fluid-jet; the fluid used is either air or water.
Normally the looms employing this method are referred to more
specifically as either ‘air-jet’ or ‘water-jet’ looms. |
| Fluidity |
A
measure of the ease with which a fluid flows; numerically the
reciprocal of viscosity. The unit of fluidity is the reciprocal pascal
second (pa-1 s-1). Note: the fluidity of dilute solutions of polymers
is inversely related to the polymer molecular weight and, for certain
fibre-solvent systems, may be used as an indicator of polymer
degradation. |
| Fluorescent Brightening Agent |
A
colourless chemical compound, added to an uncoloured textile material
to enhance its apparent brightness or whiteness. Although not
considered as dye in its strictest sense, the fluorescent brightening
agent absorbs the incident near ultra-violet radiation and re-emit
visible violet-blue radiation. It counteracts the reflection of
excessive yellow by addition of light emitted at the blue end of the
colour spectrum. They thereby not only improve the distribution over
the special range but also add to the total amount of light reflected.
This causes a yellowish material to which it has been applied to appear
brighter and whiter. They are often included in the formula of many
detergents sold for home and industrial use. |
| Fluorescent Fabric |
A
fabric dyed with fluorescent dyes or made from yarns dyed with
fluorescent dyes. The fabric is very bright in the daylight and visible
under so-called ‘black-light conditions’. Used for uniforms for
personnel who work in night or conditions of darkness, e.g. firemen,
traffic policemen, airport workers, etc. |
| Fluorocarbon Fibre |
A fibre with a high proportion of fluorine atoms as substituents on the carbon chain of a polymer molecule. |
| Fluorofibre |
A generic term used to describe, a fibre composed of linear macromolecules made from fluorocarbon aliphatic monomers. |
| Fly |
1.
An opening, covered with fabric, to conceal a fastening (e.g. buttons,
zip). A blind fly is fastened instead of left open along the finished
edge.
2. The fibres, which fly out into the atmosphere during carding, drawing, spinning or other textile processes.
3. A yarn defect, which manifests as small fibres (flies), spun into
the yarn of another stock, often caused by the lack of precaution to
prevent contamination; mostly caused in the spinning process. Usually
considered as a minor defect, but considered major if size and colour
are severe.
4. Debris from the textile fibres, which accumulates in and around the
machinery. A form of waste fibre fragments abraded from textile
materials; also loose short fibres or fluff. |
| Fly-shot Loom |
A
multi-piece weaving machine for narrow fabrics in which each shuttle is
knocked through the open shed by means of a peg fixed in a slide. The
term is also sometimes applied to single-head narrow-fabric looms. |
| Foam |
Colloidal suspension of a gas in a liquid. |
| Foam-backed Fabric |
A combination fabric usually having two layers, one of which is of cellular plastic material. |
| Foam Bonding |
A
method of making non-woven fabrics in which a fibre web or batt is
treated by the application of a liquid in the form of a foam. |
| Foam Bonding |
A method of producing non-woven fabrics, in which a fibre web or batt is treated with an adhesive foam material. |
| Foam Finishing |
The application of one or more liquid chemical finishes in the form of
foam to a textile material; the advantage is a low wet pick-up. . |
| Folded Yarn |
A
yarn in which two or more single yarns are twisted together (fold) in
one operation, e.g., two-fold yarn, three-fold yarn, etc., note: in
some sections of the textile industry, e.g., the marketing of
hand-knitting yams, these yarns are referred to as two-ply, three-ply,
etc.
|
| Folder |
1. A machine for measuring and folding piece goods.
2.
In sewing machine, an attachment, which folds the material as it is fed
through, so that it is sewn in to the desired configuration. |
| Folding Defects In Garment |
Given below is a list of probable defects that might occur in a garment, during the folding stage:
¡ Garment not folded to specifications.
¡ Garment not folded with correct material, such as cardboard, tissue, polythene, etc.
¡ Pins or folds in garment incorrectly positioned.
|
| Folk Weave |
A
loosely woven, fabric from coarse yarns in dobby or Jacquard looms; the
weaving pattern often includes several colours, in stripes possibly
with diamonds or other small patterns between them. Fibres used are
cotton, viscose, and acrylic. Does not crease easily and is used for
bedcovers, curtains, loose covers and cushion covers. |
| Foot Spike |
The
short metal rod that extends up from the metal, glass or plastic
mannequin base and insets into the matching square fitting, with set
screw, midway between the heel and the calf of the mannequin leg. It
supports and holds the mannequin upright, but can interfere with the
use of hosiery or the wearing of pants. |
| Foreign Fibres |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as the presence, of fibres of a
different type and/or colour, from the other fibres in the fabric. It
is often caused by the contamination of the fabric by extraneous fibre
which is either included in the yarn or woven/knitted into the fabric. |
| Foreign Matter |
The
term used to describe, the non-lint material commonly referred to as
waste or trash such as dust, sand, seed-coat fragments, leaves and
stems, normally present in raw and partially processed cotton. |
| Form |
In
hat manufacture, the production of a loosely constructed cone of fur by
drawing a weighed quantity of blown fur onto a revolving perforated
metal cone, the adhering layer of fur being moistened by spraying with
water and subsequently carefully removed from the cone by hand.
|
| Fortune |
A
combination fabric, made from acetate voile yarns and combination
acetate-viscose yarns in warp and weft. Used mainly for women’s
apparels. |
| Foulard |
A
soft and lightweight, plain or printed twill-weave fabric, made from a
variety of filament yarns, like silk, acetate, viscose, polyester or
triacetate. Printed patterns usually take the form of small figures on
contrasting background colours. Used for soft-styled dresses and
blouses, robes, scarves and men’s ties and light dressing gowns. |
| Foulard |
Fibre: Silk, rayon, very fine cotton, very fine worsted. Weave: Twill,
2 up 2 down. Characteristics: Very soft, light fabric. Noted for its
soft finish and feel. It is usually printed with small figures on a
dark or light background. Similar to Surah and Tie Silk, but finer. Was
originally imported from India.
Uses: Dresses, robes, scarves, and neckwear of all kinds. First made
for the handkerchief trade.
|
| Foulé |
A
twill weave fabric, with a rough finished surface, which is neither
sheared nor singed. The characteristic propensity for substantial
shrinkage, gives the texture. The name derived from the French word
‘fouler’, meaning, ‘to full’ or ‘to shrink’. |
| Fourragère |
A braided cord worn usually around the left shoulder, especially when awarded as a military decoration |
| Fox |
Characteristics: Colour varies from black to red, silver, silver-grey and white.
Uses: Scarves, muffs, jackets, coats, trimmings, also to provide softness in wool blends for textile industry.
|
| Fox Fibre ® |
Naturally
Coloured Cotton, the fibres of which grow from seeds that already have
their color and do not need to be dyed. It is believed that six colors
(pink, red, lavender, brown, green and yellow) were developed by the
ancient peoples of the Americas thousands of years ago. Sally Fox
managed to breed plants that bring the fibre quality of the wilder
brown cottons up to that required by modern spinning technology.
FOXFIBRE® colors grow best without chemicals, opening the door to
organically grown cotton, the COLORGANIC® cotton. Three shades are
available today, Coyote Brown, Buffalo Brown and Palo Verde Green. |
| Fraying |
1.
The incidence of shifting or slipping of one set of yarns over another
in the woven fabric, or at the cut or unfinished stage. 2. The
operation unravelling or wearing out the threads at the raw edge of a
fabric. The term is most commonly used to describe the loss of yarns
that are more or less parallel to a raw edge of a woven fabric,
resulting in the projection of short, loose lengths.
|
| Free Alkali |
The
term used to describe, caustic soda and caustic potash that have not
been united with any neutralising substance. This form of alkali harms
wool and silk fabrics if a soap containing free alkali is used to clean
them. |
| Free Dye Contamination |
An
impurity of the drycleaning solvent; known as dye bleeding that occurs
most often in hot, summer months. Sufficient carbon to be ensured in
the filtering system to absorb the dye. |
| Free-fibre-end Yarn |
OAn
air-jet textured yarn, in which the protruding filament loops are cut
or broken. Such yarn resembles a spun staple yarn, because of its hairy
surface. |
| Free Swell Absorbency |
The weight of fluid in grams that can be absorbed by 1 gram of fibre, yarn, or fabric. |
| Freight on Board FOB |
Freight
On Board, as it relates to closeout merchandise. Refers to the location
of the merchandise being represented and shipped from. This can be some
indication that the merchandise is being "Brokered", obviously if the
company you are dealing with is located in Texas and lists merchandise
FOB Florida you can almost assume your broker has never seen the
merchandise offered. Be careful as this is not the case in all
situations. A company may have multiple warehouse locations. This is a
grey area and very hard to determine. You will notice many companies
stating, "We have many FOB or warehouse points all over the US". This
should not be construed as company owned facilities.' |
| French Back Serge |
A
piece dyed serge fabric, in a clear or semi-finish, made with two warp
threads and one weft yarn. Made in a variety of weights and qualities,
used mainly for men’s wear, especially in winter suitings. |
| French Back Weave |
A
staple worsted cloth with a corded twill backing of different weave
than the face of the cloth, which is clear finish in appearance. The
back weave is of inferior yarn; often cotton, when compared with the
face stock. The backing gives added weight, warmth, more texture and
stability to the cloth. |
| French Cleaning |
A traditional term, which was originally used to describe, the drycleaning process |
| French Comb |
A notable type of combing machine used for combing wool in worsted yarn manufacture. |
| French Combing Wool |
The
term used to describe, fine wool fibres having a staple length of 3 cm
to 5 cm; a quality between clothing wool and combing wool. Used in the
French system of spinning. |
| French Crêpe |
A very soft, lightweight, inexpensive fabric for lingerie; now mostly made from polyamide fibre. |
| French Crêpe Cord |
A traditional term used to describe, case cords that are more than 6mm in diameter.
|
| French Cuff |
A soft double cuff that is made by turning back half of a wide cuff band and fastening with cuff links. |
| French Knot |
A decorative embroidery stitch made by twisting the thread several times around the needle |
| French Seam |
A
complex seam formed on the inside of the object, with both raw edges
enclosed and no stitching rows visible on the face side. A French seam
is made by: placing two pieces of fabric with back sides together;
stitching a seam line 10mm. from the raw edge; pressing the seam flat
and then open; trimming the seam allowance to 3 mm if the fabric does
not ravel easily, or slightly less than 6mm if the fabric ravels
easily; slightly clipping or notching, as appropriate, any curved edges
in order to lie flat; folding the face sides of the fabric together;
pressing again with the stitched seam exactly on the folded edge; and
stitching 6mm from the folded edge, which results in completely
enclosing the seam allowance. These two seam allowances make a total of
15 mm, the standard seam allowance. No stitching lines are visible from
the face side. |
| French Serge |
A
very superior quality serge fabric with a fine, lofty and springy feel,
used mainly for women’s tailored clothes. Warp may be singles or
doubles and weft is usually single ply worsted. Piece dye or yarn dyed |
| French System |
One of the three main methods of spinning worsted yarns. This method is
employed generally for shorter fibres than those used on the Bradford
system. The yarns spun on this dry spun system are loftier than those
made on other worsted systems. |
| French Tack |
A method of attaching one part of a garment to another while still allowing ease between them.
|
| French Terry |
A knit jersey with loops on one side; sometimes napped to make fleece |
| French Terry |
A knit jersey with loops on one side. Sometimes napped to make fleece. |
| French Terry |
A circular knit fabric with a looped pile back and smooth face. |
| Frey |
The term used to describe, the threads, which come out from the fabric during handling.
|
| Frey |
Threads, which come out from the fabric during handling.
|
| Friction |
The
force that opposes the relative motion of two bodies in contact. In
other words, friction is the resistance to the relative motion of one
body sliding, rolling, or flowing over another body with which it is in
contact. Friction is greatly reduced by the use of lubricants such as
oil, grease, and graphite. Air bearings are now used to minimise
friction in high-speed rotational machinery. |
| Frictional Constraint |
1. The force imposed by the multitude of fibre-to-fibre contacts within a fabric.
2. In textile wet processing, the resistance to fibre movement imposed by fibre-to-fibre contacts within a fabric.
|
| Friction Angle |
In
the quantification of the soil - geo textile friction, an angle, the
tangent of which is equal to the ratio of the friction force per unit
area and the normal stress between the two materials. |
| Friction Calendering |
The
process of passing a fabric through a calender machine, in which a
highly polished, usually heated, steel bowl rotates at a higher surface
speed than a softer (made with cotton or paper) bowl against which it
works, thus producing a bright glaze on the face of the fabric that is
in contact with the steel bowl. The friction ratio is the ratio of the
peripheral speed of the faster steel bowl to that of the slower bowl
and is normally in the range of 1.5 to 3.0. |
| Friction Spinning |
A
method of open-end spinning which uses the external surface of two
rotating rollers to collect and twist individual fibres into a yarn. At
least one of the rollers is perforated so that air can be drawn through
its surface to facilitate fibre collection. The twisting occurs near
the nip of the rollers and, because of the relatively large difference
between the yam and roller diameters, high yarn rotational speeds are
achieved by the friction between the roller surface and the yarns. |
| Friction Spinning |
A
method of open-end spinning, which uses the external surface of two
rotating rollers to collect and twist individual fibres into yarn. At
least one of the rollers is perforated so that air can be drawn through
its surface to facilitate fibre collection. The twisting occurs near
the nip of the rollers and, because of the relatively large difference
between the yarn and roller diameters, high yarn rotational speeds are
achieved by the friction between the roller surface and the yarns. |
| Friction Towel |
A terry cloth with linen pile, made to develop friction after bathing.
|
| Friction Twisting |
The generation of false-twist (see false-twisting) by a device in which
the yarn lies in contact with one or more surfaces of high friction
driven in a direction at substantial angle to the yarn axis. In
practice, friction disks, belts or bushes are commonly used. |
| Frieze Frisé |
1.
A heavy, thick, rough surface pile fabric usually made with uncut
loops, but sometimes also styled by shearing the loops at varying
heights. Often produced in two colours, and wires are used to lift the
pile yarns above the surface, giving the effect of a patterned double
cloth. Fibre used may be cotton or cotton with acrylic, viscose or
modal. Does not crease. Used widely for curtains, slipcovers and in the
upholstery trade.
2. A heavy woollen overcoating fabric having a rough, fuzzy, and frizzy
face. Named after Friesland in Holland, where it was originally
produced. |
| Frieze |
A
pile fabric with the loops left uncut. Usually the loops are sheared to
various heights to form a pattern. Used widely for upholstery and
slipcovers. |
| Frieze |
Refers to a rough, heavy, fuzzy, rizzy, and boardy woollen over coating
fabric with a rough surface, which originated in Friesland Holland.
Often used for over coating material for soldiers. Much adulteration is
given the cloth. Irish frieze is quite popular and more reliable and is
called "cotha more". |
| Fright Wig |
A wig with hair that stands out from the head
|
| Fringe |
1.
An edging or border of loose threads, tassels, or loops. These may be
produced by the constituent threads or by threads added to a fabric
after weaving or knitting.
2. A narrow fabric trimming, which has, on both edges, cut or looped
weft threads, which extend substantially beyond the width of the warp
threads to form a decorative edge. The threads forming the fringe are
bunched or knotted together to increase the decorative effect. Tassels,
balls, or other adornments are sometimes added. That part of a fringe
comprising both warp and weft is known as the ‘heading’. That part of a
fringe containing only weft is known as ‘skirt’. |
| Frise |
Rayon
most popular, also mohair and silk and synthetics. The ground or
backing yarns are usually made of cotton. Sometimes jute or hemp are
combined with the cotton. Pile (looped). Made usually with uncut loops
in all-over pattern. It is sometimes patterned by shearing the loops at
different lengths. Some made with both cut and uncut loops in the form
of a pattern. Frise is also spelled Frieze but frieze really refers to
a rough, fuzzy, frizzy, boardy woollen over coating fabric, which
originated in Friesland Holland. Often used for overcoating material
for soldiers. Much adulteration is given the cloth. Irish frieze is
quite popular and more reliable and is called "cotha more". |
| Frise |
Fibre:
Rayon most popular, also mohair and silk and synthetics. The ground or
backing yarns are usually made of cotton. Sometimes jute or hemp are
combined with the cotton.
Weave: Pile (looped).
Characteristics: Made usually with uncut loops in all-over pattern. It
is sometimes patterned by shearing the loops at different lengths. Some
made with both cut and uncut loops in the form of a pattern.
Uses: Upholstery, also used widely as transportation fabric by
railroads, buses, and airplanes. Frise is also spelled Frieze but
frieze really refers to a rough, fuzzy, frizzy, boardy woollen
overcoating fabric, which originated in Friesland Holland. Often used
for overcoating material for soldiers. Much adulteration is given the
cloth. Irish frieze is quite popular and more reliable and is called
‘cotha more’.
|
| Frisons |
The
first waste obtained in the process of reeling silk cocoons, composed
of the tangled first lengths of the silk filament, which are removed by
the reeler up to the point when the filament begins to reel properly. |
| Frizzing |
A finishing process employed on wool chinchilla fabric.
|
| Frock |
An
outer garment worn by monks and friars; an outer garment worn chiefly
by men; a long loose mantle; a workman's outer shirt; a woollen jersey
worn especially by sailors; a woman's dress |
| Frock Coat |
A man's knee-length usually double-breasted coat
|
| Frocking |
A term sometimes used to describe, the coarse cotton fabrics such as denim, drill, dungaree, jean, or fustian, etc.
|
| Frog Closure |
Chinese closing of decorative cording or braid. A soft ball of cording or a button is used to complete the closure.
|
| Frog Pocket |
A
trouser pocket opening approximately 12 cm. across the waist band from
the side seam, and about 12 cm. down the side seam from the waist band
seam, which is fastened in the corner with a hole and button and when
opened, folded down to form a triangular flap. |
| Front Breakpoint |
A term used in garment sizing. In anatomy, the location on the front of the body where the arm separates from the body.
|
| Frosting Colour Abrasion |
he
term used to describe, the change of colour in specific areas of a
fabric due to dye failure, dissimilar wearing properties of different
fibres, localised abrasive wear or differential wear, such as the knees
of jeans. The use of the term ‘differential wear’ as substitute for the
concept of frosting is undesirable. |
| Frost Marks |
A
fabric defect, which manifests in a woven fabric, as the development of
highlights that give a frosted appearance. The defect is usually caused
by improper sizing or insufficient warp tension. |
| Fugitive Tint |
A
colorant lacking durability to one or more of the various
colour-destroying agents such as sunlight or washing. Often applied to
textile materials for their identification during handling. The
colorant can be easily removed during normal textile scouring or dyeing
processes. |
| Full-bleach Finish |
The
process of bleaching cotton textile materials to a clear white; during
the process all the natural colouring matter of cotton is removed. The
material is given at least one boiling in an alkali bath or baths, and
bleaching is carried out in a bleach bath. |
| Full Cardigan Rib |
A
variation of a 1x1 rib stitch with two sets of needles there is
alternate knitting and tucking on one course then tucking and knitting
on the next course. The fabric has the same look on both sides as every
wale on both sides has both a held loop and a tuck loop. |
| Fuller Figure |
The
larger sized mannequin for the plumper, fuller figure. The female form
wears a size 14½ and, depending upon the pose, stands about 5 ft. 9
ins. tall. The bust, waist and hips, as well as the arms, legs and
head, are proportioned to suit the half-size garment. |
| Full-fashioned |
The
term used to describe, knitted fabrics and garments, which are shaped
wholly or in part by widening and/or narrowing by loop transference to
increase or decrease the number of wales, e.g. the shoulder areas of a
full-fashioned garment have rounded contour knitted in. |
| Fulling |
The
term used to describe a finishing process employed on woollen fabrics.
The material is placed in warm, soapy water in a fulling mill and the
goods are pounded and twisted to make them felt and cause the fibres in
the yarns to interlock. This application of heat, moisture, friction
and pressure, followed by a cold rinse does much to whip the cloth into
shape for future treatments. Sometimes chemical are also used to help
moisten, soften, and lubricate the fibres so that desirable matting
will result. |
| Fullness |
The
additional amount of one of the fabrics joined at a seam, which is
allowed, in order to create the desired shape in a part of a finished
garment, e.g. a sleeve head |
| Fully Acetylated Cotton; FA Cotton |
Cotton fibres or yarns that have been subjected to full acetylation,
which have excellent resistance to deterioration from mildew, rot and
heat, and are superior to partially acetylated cotton in abrasion
resistance and in tensile strength. |
| Fully-cut Garments |
A class of knitted garments, named after the general production method
employed in its manufacture. Among all methods of knitted garment
manufacture, this is the most akin to making garments from a woven
fabric. All parts of the garment other than the trims are cut from the
fabric lay on the cutting table. Each garment piece has all edges cut,
hence the term ‘fully cut’. The garments are assembled by seaming
machines and trims are added where appropriate. The fabric for this
process is invariably knitted on circular knitting machines; Single
jersey plain web machine and Double jersey rib machine. |
| Fully Fashioned Garments |
A
class of knitted garments, named after the general production method
employed in its manufacture. In this method, the garments constructed
from garment portions of weft knitted fabric having shaped selvages,
i.e. the portions of a garment are shaped at the selvedges by
progressively increasing or decreasing the number of loops in the width
of the fabric. Such narrowing and widening produces the shape of a
piece of garment that would otherwise be generated by cutting. Fully
fashioning has two obvious advantages over ‘Fully cut’ and ‘Stitch
shaped cut’ categories of garment making; there is little or no cutting
waste, and the edges of the garment pieces are sealed and not liable to
fraying, so can be joined by simple non-bulky seams. |
| Bombax |
See under Cotton trees |
| Bombazine |
Traditional
English fabric; one of the oldest fabrics known. A lustrous,
dress-weight, plain or twill weave fabric made with silk warp and fine
worsted weft. Imitations are made in viscose and cotton. It is normally
piece-dyed in black, but also dyed to other colours. It was originally
an all-silk fabric. Used mainly formal dresses, evening suits, wedding
gowns, children wear, etc. Dyed in black, it is the traditional
mourning cloth. |
| Fully Fashioning |
SIn
weft knitting, a term applied to garment portions in which the parts
are shaped by widening and/or narrowing by loop transference to
increase or decrease the number of wales. The pre-shaped pieces are
subsequently stitched together to form a garment. |
| Fully Oriented Yarn Fully Drawn Yarn |
WA
melt-spun continuous filament yarn that has been highly oriented either
by drawing at a high draw ratio or by spinning at a high wind-up speed
such that little or no residual drawability remains. The term is used
in contrast to ‘low orientation’ yarn and ‘partially oriented yarn’. |
| Fume Fading Inhibitors |
FA
group of simple alkaline substances such as borax, which are sometimes
used as an after-treatment finish on dyed fabrics to forbid fading of
colours caused by exposure to some atmospheric gases. The finish is
effective to some extent, but not durable. |
| Functional Finishes; Special Finishes |
The term used to describe, the treatments that are employed on fabrics
to make them better suited for specific uses, i.e. the finishes that
alter or improve the wearability or performance of a fabric or garment
to afford protection or longer life and enhance consumer demand.. These
finishes include absorbent finish, air conditioning of fabric,
anti-bacterial finish, crease resistant, durable crease, durable press,
flame resistant finish, moralizing finish, mildew resistant finish,
moth repellent finish, shrinkage control finish, wash-and-wear finish,
water repellent finish, water proofing finish, etc. . |
| Fur |
The fine, soft, dense hair covering of certain mammals. Fur is
distinguished from hair, which is comparatively longer and harsher. Fur
fibre is generally spun in combination with other fibres, e.g. wool,
cotton, and rayon staple fibre. |
| Fur Felt |
SThe
term used to describe, the felt fabrics containing some quantity of
rabbit, rat or beaver hairs, to give a sheen and good surface texture
to the fabric. These felts are expensive and usually only used for
millinery. |
| Fur Trimming |
The fur strips cut in lengths from a fur fabric or taken from a fur
strip roll, according to requirements. The fur is usually backed with a
thin layer of synthetic foam and edged with cotton tape. The edging is
used for hats, cuffs, collars, etc., and applied to existing detail.
. |
| Fusible Interlinings |
Are
of considerable help in the clothing industry because for shaping, edge
stitching, securing, strengthening and under picking, which eliminates
tacking or stitching procedures. Interlinings are particularly applied
in the tailoring of jackets and blazers, overcoats, uniforms, dresses,
blouses, shirts, overalls and in the sportswear sector. |
| Fusing Defects In Garment |
Given below is a list of probable defects that might occur in a
garment, during the fusing stage:
¡ Interlining not securely fused, owing to incorrect temperature or
pressure, too short a time of fusing, or wrong choice of resin to suit
fabric. What looks secure to the eye, or feels secure to the hand is
not necessarily secure in wear, washing, or dry cleaning. ¡ Strike
through, where the resin is forced through the surface of the outer
fabric.
¡ Strike back, where the resin is forced through the back of the
interlining.
¡ Hard handle, arising from incorrect choice of resin backing cloth, or
improperly adjusted fusing conditions of time, temperature and
pressure.
|
| Fustian |
The
term used to describe, a group of hardwearing dress fabrics, having
heavy wefts. Made from a variety of natural fibres mostly cotton.
Fabrics like, swansdown, imperial sateen, moleskin, velveteen,
corduroy, etc. are examples for fustian |
| Fustic |
A
yellow dyestuff of natural origin, obtained from the heartwood of the
tree chlorophora tinctoria. Used mainly in dyeing of wool; now largely
in disuse. |
| Fuzz |
The term used to describe, the untangled fibre ends that protrude from the surface of a yarn or fabric. |
| Fuzz Ball |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as loose and frayed fibres that have
formed into a ball and have then been woven or knitted into the fabric.
|
| Fuzzing |
A fabric condition characterised by an unwanted hairy appearance due to
broken fibres or filaments. This can occur during washing, dry
cleaning, testing or in daily wear.
|
| Fuzzy Pattern |
A
printing defect, which manifests as the edges of a printed pattern is
not sharp and lines not clear, but rather fuzzy. Most frequently caused
by improperly thickened print paste. Sometimes it may also occur, if
the fabric is not properly singed. |
