| Dacca Muslin |
A very fine, extremely light, traditional muslin fabric from Dacca, Bangladesh, made from cotton grown locally. |
| Dacron |
A famous trade name of a type of polyester fibre. |
| Dagger Fibre |
A natural fibre of vegetable origin. The fibre obtained from the dagger plant, a name for several species of yucca. |
| Damaged and Kept |
The term used to describe the damaged and kept material and denotes the lengths of fabrics spoilt in processing. |
| Damask |
A
heavy, bright, figured, fine yarn fabric, which was originally a silk
fabric produced in the city of Damascus, with patterns of flowers,
branches and animals contrasting with the slightly textured taffeta
background. Woven on jacquard looms, the elaborate surface design runs
in the opposite direction from those in the background. Now it is a
figured fabric made with one warp and one weft in which, generally,
warp-satin and weft-sateen weaves are used. Damask is made in different
weights from various fibres. Most are self-toned, i.e. the warp and
weft are in same colour; the design creates the interest. Used manly
for upholstery, curtains, draperies furnishings, table linen, etc.
Linen damask makes the most elegant and hardwearing tablecloths, as it
may be boiled, starched and given a high gloss with ironing. Cotton and
viscose damask are not as hardwearing. Most damasks crease readily. The
closer the texture the more hardwearing it will be. Damask is rarely
used as a dress fabric. |
| Damasqutte |
A damask fabric woven with more than one weft to provide extra colour. |
| Damassin |
A brocade or damask fabric with gold or silver patterns woven into it.
|
| Damp Dry |
The
term used to describe laundry, when it has been removed from an
automatic washer with the right moisture condition for ironing. |
| Damping Cloth |
The
term used to describe a piece of absorbent fabric, which is wetted and
laid over a garment during pressing, to increase the humidity in that
area and prevent formation of undesirable gloss on some fabrics. |
| Damping Machine |
A machine used for damping wool textiles during finishing. |
| Dart |
A wedge shaped portion removed from the surface area of a garment by stitching or alternatively by cutting and stitching. |
| Dartmoor |
A hardy wool from British mountain sheep. It is rather free from kemp. |
| Data Label |
The
term used to describe the mandatory label or ticket affixed to fabric
pieces or bolts. The label contains standardised textile industry data
relative to fabric construction, fibre size and weight, blend content,
and yarn types. They are readily understood as follows:
When the number of warp-ends is 128 per inch and weft-picks are 64
per inch in a woven fabric, it is expressed as: 128 x 64 When a
filament yarn is of denier 150 and there are 40 such filaments in the
yarn, it is expressed as: 150/40 When a count Ne 25s single yarn is
made from a blend of 50% polyester and 50 % cotton, it is expressed as:
25/1, 50/50 polyester/cotton
When a yarn is made from Ne 30s count yarn and it is made up of 2
plies, it is expressed as: 30/2
|
| Deacetylated Acetate Fibre |
A
generic term of a manufactured fibre of regenerated cellulose obtained
by almost complete deacetylation of a cellulose acetate |
| Backed cloth |
Fabric
in satin or twill weave designed with an additional set of extra warp
or weft added for weigh and warmth. Used for dress goods, suitings and
skirtings. . |
| Dead Colours |
The
term used to describe, the decorations or motifs that have been
deadened, killed, or subdued due to scouring or other more or less
rigid treatments in finishing. Considered a major fabric defect, if
unintentional. |
| Dead Cotton |
The general term used in relation to cotton maturity; an extreme form
of undeveloped, immature cotton with a very thin fibre wall. The fibres
are weak, brittle and lack the characteristic convolutions. They tend
to stick together and become easily entangled into neps, having no
lustre and take a dead look. The dead cotton neps gathered on the
surface of a fabric would be unpleasantly discernible, because they
have different in colour, lustre and texture from the surrounding
fabric.
Some dead cotton fibres show up as small bundles in ginned raw
cotton, which might show up later as undyed specks, due to poor dye
affinity. |
| Dead Wool |
Wool obtained from the sheep that has died from natural causes. |
| De-aeration |
The removal of all undissolved gases and part of the dissolved gases (mainly air) from spinning solutions prior to extrusion. |
| De-burring |
In
woollen yarn manufacture, the term used to describe the mechanical
extraction of burrs, seeds and vegetable matter from wool, by employing
a burring machine. |
| Decalcomanie |
A
traditional form of lithographic printing, for embroidery transfers.
The design is usually transferred from the tissue paper on which it is
printed, by ironing. Thick enamel-like pigments were employed for
printing. |
| Decatizing |
A
finishing process applied on fabrics, to set the material, remove
wrinkles, enhance lustre and improve the hand. The fabric is wound
around a perforated drum, between layers of a blanket and steam is
passed through from the inside to outside layers. The direction of
steam passage is then reversed. On completion of treatment, the steam
removed by vacuum pump. This process also helps to overcome uneven or
blotchy dyeing. |
| Decitex |
A unit of the Tex system. A measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 10,000 metres of yarn. |
| Decitex per Filament |
The term used to describe the average decitex of each filament in a multifilament yarn. |
| Declared Composition |
A
nominal composition of a mixture of textile materials, used for
labelling and invoicing purposes and, where appropriate, for the
calculation of the weighted commercial allowance or weighted moisture
regain of the mixture. |
| Decorticating |
The method employed for the removal of the woody, pithy matter from bast fibres by mechanical means.
See Retting
|
| De-crimping |
The term used to describe the process of removal of crimp from a textile material. |
| De-crystallised Cotton |
The
term used to describe, cotton that has been subjected to impregnation
with reagents such as zinc chloride, concentrated caustic soda
solutions or anhydrous liquid ethylamine to reduce the degree of
crystallization. It is not a chemical treatment in the sense that there
is any chemical change in the cotton. The change is in the degree of
order of the cellulose molecules and in their spatial relationships to
each other. The treatment opens up the structure of the cellulose in
cotton and it improves its absorbency and dyeability. |
| Deep Dyeing Fibres |
The
term used to describe fibres modified to impart it the property of
greater uptake of selected dyes than normal fibres when the two are
dyed together. |
| Deep Pile. |
The
term used to describe a wide range of pile fabrics, which simulate
pelts and furs of various animals although not necessary duplicating
their exact colours and patterns. Sometimes called ‘fake furs’ |
| Deep Pinning |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as conspicuous pin marks of stenter,
appearing in the body of the fabric and thus reducing the usable width
of the fabric. The defect is often caused by incorrect feed on to a pin
stenter. |
| Deep-textured Fabric |
The fabric that has three-dimensional effects on its surface. The effect is achieved by various means:
Innovative employment of thick and thin, curled, looped, or slubbed yarns
Combination of different weaves, or
Choice of colour and colour blends.
|
| Defect |
A
fault, flaw, imperfection, blemish, shortcoming, deficiency or failing
that would reduce the expected performance of a textile material or, if
it appeared in a prominent position in a textile article, would readily
be seen and rejected by a prospective purchaser. The defects are
classified as critical, major and minor. |
| Defective Plating |
A
defect in knit fabric, which manifests as the appearance on the face
side of a fabric, of one or two wrong yarns knitted simultaneously at a
feeder. It is usually caused by poorly differentiated feed heights or
tension during plating. |
| Deferred Cure |
A
garment finishing method, in which a cross-linking chemical is fixed in
a sewn garment by curing; a catalyst also is introduced into the
padding bath, which ensures speedy and efficient cross-linking. As a
result of the treatment, the shape of the garment is ‘locked out’.
Hence, the seams stay flat and neat, and the texture of the fabric
remains smooth even after repeated washings. |
| Definition in Printing |
The term used to describe the sharpness or clearness of a print and how well the design stands out. |
| De-foaming Agent |
De-foaming Agent |
| Defoliant |
A
chemical dust or spray applied to plants to cause their leaves to drop
off prematurely. Defoliants are frequently applied to cotton in order
to facilitate harvesting. |
| Defoliation |
The process of chemically treating cotton plants to make them shed their leaves. |
| Deformation |
A change in shape of a material caused by forces of compression, shear, tension, or torsion.
See also Immediate Elastic Deformation; Delayed Deformation; Permanent Deformation
|
| Degradation |
A
detrimental change in properties of a textile material caused by the
decomposition of fibres by such means as heat, light, chemicals and
nuclear radiation. In other words the loss of desirable physical
properties in a textile material as a result of a physical or chemical
phenomenon, or by some other process. |
| Degreased Wool |
The wool, from which the yolk, suint, and other foreign matters have been removed by the napthalation. |
| Degreasing |
The removal of natural fats, waxes, oil, and dirt from any textile material by means of an organic solvent.
The removal of grease, suint, and extraneous matter from wool by an aqueous or solvent process.
|
| Degree of Crystallinity |
The
amount by weight, expressed as a percentage, of a linear polymer, which
is present in a crystalline form, the rest of the polymer being in an
amorphous state. |
| Degree of Orientation |
The
term used to describe, the extent to which the macromolecules,
composing a fibre, are placed in a predominant direction. In the case
of fibres the predominant direction is usually the fibre axis. |
| Degree of Polymerisation |
The average number of repeating units in the individual macromolecules in a polymer.
|
| De-gumming |
The
process of removing of sericin (silk gum) from silk yarns or fabrics by
a controlled, hot, mildly alkaline treatment intended to have little or
no effect on the underlying fibroin. |
| Delaine |
A
lightweight plain weave wool fabric, made from good quality botany
worsted yarns. Soft finished and usually printed, used for dresses. A
rather expensive fabric. |
| Délavé |
A fabric having a washed effect. The term may be used instead of ‘washed out’ to describe jeans made from this fabric
|
| Delayed Deformation |
A
deformation dependent on time, that is displayed by a textile material
subjected to a continuing applied force. On removal of the applied
force, the delayed deformation can be either recoverable or
non-recoverable. |
| Delayed Deformation Recovery |
The term used to describe, the time dependent decrease in strain following removal of stress. |
| Delicate |
The term used to describe a fine, light hand fabric with good drape.
|
| Delocalisation |
The
term used to describe the geographical move of a production unit to
another country, which includes foreign sourcing and subcontracting. |
| Delustrant |
The
term used to describe, the particulate material that is added to a
spinning composition before extrusion, to reduce the lustre of the
resultant man-made fibre. The anatase form of titanium dioxide is
commonly used for this purpose |
| Delustred Fibre |
The
term used to describe, man-made fibres, the lustre of which has been
reduced or eliminated by using a delustrant in the spinning solution
before extrusion. Terms used to indicate the level of delustrant in
man-made fibres are: Clear, Bright, Semi-dull, Dull, Matt, Extra dull,
and Super-dull. |
| Delustring |
The
process of subduing or reducing the lustre of manufactured fibres, by
introducing a pigment in the spinning solution. Yarns and fabrics made
from manufactured fibres also can be deulustred by treatment with some
pigments or chemical treatments. Barium salts, zinc oxide, aluminium
oxide and china clay are examples of delustrants usually applied to
yarns and fabrics. |
| Denier |
A
direct yarn numbering system for expressing linear density. It is
expressed as the mass in grams per 9,000metres of fibre, filament,
yarn, or other textile strand. In the denier system is a direct the low
numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers the coarser
sizes. Traditionally the denier system was used as the standard for all
continuous filament yarns. |
| Denim |
A
strong, unyielding and hardwearing medium weight twill fabric,
traditionally made from cotton but now also made in polyester/cotton
and stretch types in a variety of yarn numbers, and in various fabric
weights, colours, designs, and finishes. The twill weave fabric is
easily identifiable by its undyed weft picks and indigo blue dyed warp
ends and its steep twill on the face. The weave is usually 3 x 1 twill,
and a sharp twill is produced by setting the warp yarns closer together
than the weft. It was originally a protective clothing fabric, but now
it has become accepted for leisurewear in a very big way. More
recently, other weaves are being used in lighter constructions.
Denim, the rugged, tough, and serviceable fabric had its origin in its
traditional blue colour, as an overall cloth, made and worn in the town
of Nimes of France, hence ‘Serge de Nimes’, which in turn became
‘denim’. It is believed that the cotton denim cloth was brought to
America by Columbus almost 500 years ago as the as the sails of his
ship, the Santa Maria. The tough fabric softens during wear. Its main
characteristic is that it fades to whitish patches at creases or points
of strain, hem edges, etc., and creases easily. Used for casual style
clothing, such as jeans, skirts, lightweight jackets and suits, shorts,
children’s clothes, and for protective clothing. When made from cotton,
or cotton, polyester and viscose, the fabric is firm, while cotton with
modal is soft. Usually allowance is given for shrinkage. Coarse single
yarns are used mostly, but today many versions are available for the
fashion world. Long considered the most popular fabric for work clothes
and army uniforms, denim today has won great fashion significance in
dress goods for women's and men's wear, a wide range of sportswear, and
even evening wear. Some denims made for dresses and less casual clothes
contain higher percentage of polyester; the colours are different, the
fabrics are thinner and it prone to fray slightly but crease less. |
| Denim Cord |
A
denim-look fabric made from white and coloured yarn, with a slight
Bedford cord effect produced by raised ribs. It is a mixture of
polyester and cotton fibres, and creases less than all cotton. Used for
casual jackets, trousers, skirts, and children’s clothes. |
| Density |
The
term used to describe one of the physical handling properties of a
fabric, the mass per unit volume, based on measurements of fabric
weight, thickness and area. It represents a measure of compactness as
well as open space in weave. Fabric density may be rated ‘high’
(compact) as contrasted with ‘low’ (open). |
| Dent |
The
term used to describe, the space between adjacent reed wires. The unit
of a reed comprising a reed wire and a space between adjacent wires. |
| Dental Floss |
A
strong loosely twisted silk yarn, which is specially treated and used
to clean spaces between teeth. Now some of the high tenacity
hydrophobic synthetic yarns in filament form are being used. |
| Dents per Unit Width |
In a loom, a unit of measure, which denotes the number of reed wires
and spaces between adjacent wires in one inch. In a woven pile yarn
floor covering, the number of binding sites per unit width; dents being
the reed spaces through which the warp yarns pass in the loom or the
metal strips in the reed which form these spaces.
|
| Depilatory |
A
method used for obtaining hair from the carcases of dead animals. In
this method of obtaining pulled wool, the usage of chemical is resorted
to. |
| De-pitching |
The
term used to describe, the removal of tar or other branding substances
from wool, usually, though not necessarily, by solvent-extraction
method. |
| Depth |
The
departure of a coloured object from white. It is frequently associated
with either concentration or efficiency of a colorant.
The quality of colour, an increase in which is associated with an
increase in the quantity of colorant present, all other conditions
including viewing, etc., remaining the same.
|
| Derivation Weaves |
The term used to describe, any fancy weave derived from the three basic (plain, twill, and satin) weaves. |
| Derries |
A yarn dyed cotton dress fabric made mostly in brown or blue colours, or a combination of either of these colours with white. |
| Description Cotton
|
The
term used to describe, the natural cellulosic fibres that are
guaranteed to meet definite specifications as to character, grade,
staple and place of origin. |
| Design Paper |
In weaving, it is a paper having a series of horizontal and vertical
lines, in a manner suitable for showing weaves and designs. Generally,
each space between vertical lines represents one end and each space
between horizontal lines represents one pick. For figured designs,
other rulings are used. In knitting, it is a paper printed having a
series of horizontal and vertical lines, with dots or other shapes
representing a ground structure on which the draft of a design is
plotted. |
| De-sizing |
The
process of removing sizing materials (starches, gelatins, oils, waxes,
and manufactured polymers such as pvc, polystyrene, polyacrylic acid,
and polyacrylates, etc.) from a yarn or fabric, by using acids or
enzymes, to convert the size into a soluble form, which can then be
washed out. |
| De-skilled Machine |
The
term used to describe any machine, which has been re-engineered in such
a way, that the operator’s job, demands lesser skill with regard to the
earlier models of the machine. |
| Desorption |
The
process of removal of an adsorbed substance from the surface, on which
it has been adsorbed. In other words, a process in which a ‘sorbed’
material is released from another material, e.g.the desorption of
moisture from fibres. It is the reverse of ‘adsorption’ and
‘absorption’ or both. |
| Detergent |
A
surface-active cleansing agent or solvent, containing one or more
surfactants as the active ingredient(s). The term comprises soap or
various synthetic washing products having good dispersing properties
and are stable in acid or alkaline solutions, and used to emulsify or
suspend insoluble foreign matter and stains to aid in removal from
textiles or garments. |
| De-twisted |
The term used to describe a yarn of fibre or filament from which twist has been removed.
|
| Developed Dyes |
A
group of dyes, which are modified through the use of a developer to
improve its fastness. The material, usually cotton, linen, viscose,
silk and mixture, is first dyed with a direct dye, and then subjected
to an acid treatment, in a step described as ‘diazotizing’, is further
treated with a solution of beta-naphthol or similar chemical which is
termed as ‘developing agent’. Used to make different shades of the same
colour or to increase colour resistance to light and washing. |
| Developing |
A
step in a dyeing or printing process, in which an intermediate form of
the colorant is converted with certain compounds, which will develop a
new colour, a different shade of the same colour, or improved fastness
properties. |
| Developing Agent |
The
term used to describe, the chemical, which is applied to a dyed fabric
to develop the colour on the fabric to its insoluble state. |
| Dew Drops |
The term used to describe, little drops of gelatine or glass used for ornamentation of some net fabrics. |
| Dewing Machine |
The term used to describe, a type of damping machine
|
| Dew Point |
The
term used to describe the temperature, below which condensation of
water vapour begins to take place when the atmosphere is cooled.
|
| Dhoti |
A
traditional Indian dress for the lower part of the body, consisting of
a piece of unstitched cloth, draped over the hips and legs. Worn in
various ways in different parts of the country, by men and women. |
| Diacetate Fibre |
A manufactured fibre made from acetone-soluble cellulose acetate.
|
| Diagonal |
The
term used to describe a characteristically bold diagonal twill line
generally running across the fabric at 45º angle; other angles of
inclination are also used. |
| Diamond |
The term used to describe, designs dominated by diamond shapes.
A lozenge-shaped design obtained by reversing a twill in both warp and weft.
In zippers, the wedge-shaped portion of a slider between the throats.
|
| Diamond Barring |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as weft streaks that are distributed in
a characteristic pattern in a woven or flat weft-knitted fabric; this
being the result of a periodic variation in the diameter, twist,
tension or crimp, or shade in the weft yarn. The dimensions of this
fault depend on the ratio of the length of the periodic variations to
the width of the fabric and only rarely is it seen in a clearly diamond
form. |
| Diaper Cloth |
A
soft, smooth, absorbent, even-surfaced fabric made from cotton, linen
or flax, used principally for diapers, towels and toilet purposes. It
is usually bleached white. The more popular types are: (a) bird’s eye
diaper cloth, in dobby weave, (b) soft plain weave diaper flannel, (c)
plain knit diaper cloth, and (d) twill-weave cotton diaper flannel. |
| Diazotising |
An
intermediate step in the process of developed dyeing. The dyed material
is treated with a solution of nitrous acid, which changes the amino
group in the dyestuff to a diazo grouping, which can then unite
chemically with a developer to give a new dye compound on the fibre. |
| Diced Weave |
The
term used to describe a group of weaves, which are produced by
quartering and reversing a weave element, thus forming opposite
surfaces and directions in each quarter and clean cuts between the
sections. Weaves tend to repeat on relatively small areas, but larger
versions are possible. |
| Die |
A
small cylinder usually of steel, which is hand-engraved with one or
more, repeats of a small-scale print design pattern, then hardened and
employed for producing the mill effect on fabric surfaces. |
| Die Cutting |
The
process of cutting one or more layers of fabric, using cutting tools
(dies) or a composite cutting tool in conjunction with machine pressure. |
| Die Swell |
The increase in diameter that occurs, as a visco-elastic melt or solution emerges from a die or spinneret hole.
See also Swell Ratio
|
| Differential Drop Feed |
In
a sewing machine, a type of drop feed having two feed dogs, arranged in
tandem, which move differentially. Material can be gathered or
stretched by adjusting the stroke of the feed dog in front of the
needle so that it is longer or shorter respectively than the stroke of
the feed dog behind the needle. |
| Differential Dyeing |
The term used to describe, fibres of the same generic class, but having
potentially different dyeing properties from the standard fibre.
The term is also used to describe the tendency of cotton fibres to
absorb and retain selectively varying proportions of different dyes
from a binary dye bath.
|
| Differential Feed |
In
a sewing machine, a work advancing mechanism where the dogs are divided
into two groups, one before the needle(s) and one after. The two groups
are capable of advancing the work at different rates. If the front
group advances the work faster than the rear, a condition of
compression or overfeed will occur. If the front group advances the
work at a slower rate than the rear, a condition of stretching or
underfeed will occur. In knitted garment production differential feed
is used to lessen stretching of the fabric during seaming. |
| Differential Shrinkage |
Comparison of the shrinkage between face fabric and backing, or lining
fabric, resulting due to washing or dry-cleaning.
In zippers, the difference in longitudinal dimensional change between
the zipper tape and the fabric to which the zipper is attached. |
| Diffusion |
The movement of substance owing to the existence of a concentration gradient.
The manner in which the dye is scattered through the dye bath and later the fibre.
|
| Digital Socks |
The
term used to describe knitted foot coverings in which a single tube
covering the ankle and instep of the foot splits into more than one
tube at the toes. The tubes fit over one or more toes. |
| Dimensional Change |
A
generic term used to describe the changes in length or width of a
fabric or garment specimen subjected to specified conditions. The
change is usually expressed as a percentage of the initial dimension of
the specimen. |
| Dimensional Restoration
|
The ability of a fabric to return to former or original dimensions after being distorted by shrinking or stretching.
|
| Dimensional Stability
|
The
ability of a fibre, yarn, fabric or garment to retain its shape and
size during normal usage, which include exposure to wear, water,
washing, drying, etc. Increased stability for washing and wearing may
be obtained by fibre blends, by chemical treatments or by mechanical
means. |
| Dimethyl Terephthalate
|
The
fundamental raw material for the manufacture of polyester fibres and
films. It is derived from aromatic petrochemicals, such as benzene. |
| Dimity |
A
fine to medium weight fabric, usually with lengthwise ribs formed by
grouping several double or treble warp yarns together; sometimes also
with crosswise ribs forming a check. Name comes from the Greek word
meaning ‘double thread’. Usually made in cotton, the fabric wears well.
Used mainly for nightwear, dresses, children’s clothes, aprons and
curtains. |
| Dip
|
An immersion of relatively short duration of a textile in liquid A
laboratory dyeing, usually to develop a dye formula
The term used to describe a chemical composition that is applied to a
textile cord or fabric to improve its adhesion to rubber or other
elastomers.
The depth of liquid in the inner cylinder of a rotary washing
machine. |
| Dip Dyeing
|
The process of dyeing hosiery and other knit goods by immersion in a dye bath.
A process in which a garment is dipped into a dye bath to achieve dye take-up only in those areas immersed.
|
| Dip Pick-up
|
In
a textile material, the amount of dip or dip components present after
processing, including drying, as determined by prescribed methods, and
expressed as percentage of the mass of the oven-dry dip-free material. |
| Dips
|
The
term used to describe, the immersion of a yarn or fabric in a dye bath.
In indigo dyeing the dipping of yarns in the indigo bath is repeated
many number of times depending on the depth of shade required. |
| Direct Cabling
leaves |
A
system of producing a twist-balanced folded yarn from balanced (or
twistless) single yarns. The process is usually carried out on a
modified two-for-one twisting machine. |
| Direct Dyes |
A
group of anionic dyes having very good substantivity for cellulosic
fibres. The name arose from the fact that these dyes have ‘direct’
substantivity for cellulosic fibres, i.e. without the necessity of a
pre-mordanting treatment. Normal application is from an aqueous dyebath
containing a salt (electrolyte). Though application is easy, the
fastness properties are poor. Direct dyes are suitable for acrylic,
cotton, linen, wool, silk, viscose rayon, and cuprammonium rayon
fibres, but now the usage is declining. |
| Direct Dyeing
|
The process of dyeing textile materials with direct dyes. |
| Direction of Twist
|
The
direction in which the twist is inserted in yarns and other textile
strands.
Twist is inserted by rotating the spinning/doubling spindle in either
one direction or the other. It is the general practice to indicate
these two directions by the capital letters ‘S’ and ‘Z’. The down
stroke of each letter indicates the direction in which the surface
fibres lie. The Z twisted yarns are twisted so that the direction of
the twist follows the centre bar of the letter ‘Z’. (‘Z’ twist is also
known as ‘right twist’ and ‘ordinary twist’). In S twist yarn, the
twist direction follows the centre bar of the letter ‘S’. (‘S’ twist’
is also known as ‘left twist’ and ‘reverse twist’). For some purposes
it is necessary to have doubled yarns, which are single yarns, twisted
together. The twist of the single yarns can either run in the same,
twist on twist, or in the opposite direction, twist against twist. The
latter is the more common method, since when the single twists are in
opposite directions the doubled yarn is smoother and more lustrous. |
| Direction of Yarn Slippage
plants |
In
woven fabric, the line of movement parallel to either the weft or the
warp yarns in which minimum force is required to produce yarn slippage.
|
| Direct Printing |
The
term used to describe a group of printing methods, in which the colours
are printed directly onto that fabric in the same manner as the
printing of a newspaper. There must be one roller for each colour used
and some machines can handle sixteen colours or more. Bleached goods
are fed into the machine and pass between the colour rollers and the
master or main cylinder. The colour rollers are etched, each with the
respective part of the entire motif that it will supply to make us the
completed design. Most direct prints have a white background or base.
Roller printing, calender printing, cylinder printing are good examples
of direct printing. |
| Direct Spinning
|
In
man-made fibre yarn production, the term used to describe, the
conversion of filament tow into staple fibre and spin yarn in one
operation. In man-made fibre production, the integrated
polymerisation and fibre extrusion without intervening isolation or
storage of the polymer. The term used to describe, a method of
dry-spinning of bast fibres, wherein untwisted slivers are drafted with
suitable controls and directly twisted into yarn. In short-staple
yarn production, the manufacture of yarn directly from sliver on the
cotton system, bypassing the roving process. |
| Direct Spun |
The term used to describe, filaments or yarn produced by direct spinning.
A term used to describe, woollen yarns spun on a mule machine onto weft bobbins.
|
| Direct Style Printing |
A
type of textile printing in which the mordant and the colouring matter
are applied simultaneously, direct to a cloth. Until the advent of
chemically produced dyestuffs there was very little direct printing
(i.e. printing with a paste containing both the colour and the fixing
agent), exception being almost all the pigment colours. It is to be
noted that, pigment colours produce just a coating (rather like
painting) of the outside of yarn or fabric, unlike dyestuffs, which
stain individual fibres of the yarn or fabric. |
| Direct Warping |
The term used to describe, the transference of yarn from a package creel directly on to a beam.. |
| Direct Yarn Numbering System |
A system in which yarn number is expressed in mass per unit length; i.e. linear density. |
| Dirty
|
The term
used in dyeing parlance to describe (a) the quality of dullness of
dyeing, or (b) the goods that have not been inefficiently cleaned. |
| Discharge Style Printing |
A
method of printing, in which by the application of a chemical substance
onto specific areas of an already piece-dyed fabric, the dye is
discharged (removed) leaving a white or differently coloured pattern.
This process enables fairly intricate and fine patterns to be printed,
giving the effect of resist dyeing. By adding a dye to the paste that
is not affected by the chemical it is possible to replace the
discharged ground colour with another colour. |
| Discharging |
The destruction by chemical means of a dye or mordant already present
on a fabric and to leave a white or differently coloured pattern.
The term is used, though very rarely, to describe the degumming
process of silk.
|
| Discharging Agent |
The term used to describe a chemical, which removes or discharges the colour from previously dyed cloth.
|
| Discrete Sample |
The term used to describe one or more units taken from a material that consists of separately identifiable units.
Compare Bulk Sample
. |
| Disperse Dyes |
OA
group of non-ionic, substantially water-insoluble dyes usually applied
as a finely divided aqueous dispersion, and having substantivity only
for synthetic hydrophobic fibres. Disperse dyes are suitable for
cellulose acetate, cellulose triacetate and polyester fibres. Though
these can be used on polyamide, acrylic, and elastomeric fibres, the
usage is now declining. |
| Dispersibility |
The degree to which particles can be broken down to some minimum size,
such that they will pass through the interstices of a standard filter
paper.
|
| Dispersion |
A suspension of very fine particles in a liquid phase.. |
| Dispersion Length |
A
measure of the length variation in cotton fibres. Statistically, it is
the inter quartile range of the fibres greater than half the maximum
length when determined using a comb sorter. |
| Dispersion Spinning |
A
process in which polymers that tend to an infusible, insoluble, and
generally intractable character are dispersed as fine particles in a
carrier such as sodium alginate or sodium cellulose xanthate solutions,
that permit extrusion into fibres, after which the dispersed polymer is
caused to coalesce by a heating process, the carrier being removed
either by a heating or by a dissolving process. |
| Displaced Inlay Yarn |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as a break in the intended pattern of an
inlay pile fabric, caused by a disruption in the synchronisation of the
knitting elements that control the position of a fleecy yarn in a
laid-in fabric. |
| Disposable Fabrics |
The
term used to describe the expendable items, such as hospital sheets,
pillowcases, diapers, wiping cloths, and paper dresses. |
| Disposable Garment |
A garment, which is intended to be worn once, or only a few times and then discarded. |
| Dissolving Pulp |
A specially purified form of cellulose made from wood tissue. |
| Distorted Thread Effect |
A
mock-leno weave, in which the threads are displaced from their normal
line in either the warp direction, or the weft direction. |
| Distortion |
A
defect observed at times, in textile battings, which manifests as
holes, lumps, or thin areas caused by movement of fibres in the batting. |
| Distressed Finish |
The
term used to describe, a finish that disturbs the surface of a fabric,
giving it a used, beaten, or uneven appearance. Often done through sand
or stone washing after the fabric has been pigment dyed. |
| Distribution Layer |
The
term used to describe, a layer in a non-woven hygiene product, e.g.
diaper, which distributes fluid to a super absorbent and/or fluff pulp
material, where it is absorbed. |
| District Check |
A
group of small and distinctively bold, woollen checks, usually in 2 x 2
twill weave, sometimes with contrasting over-plaids. Originally, the
fabric patterns were designed to indicate the family lineage of members
of the various Scottish clans. Glen plaids are part of this category. |
| Disturbed Place |
A fabric defect, which manifests, as an area where the weave has been disarranged, though the yarns remain undamaged. |
| Divided Draw |
The
term used to describe, the practice of employing two or more warp ends
in the construction of multiple fabrics, like backed and double cloths
|
| Divided Harness |
A
type of harness, used during weaving of jacquard fabrics having two
distinct sets of figuring threads, e.g. double cloths figured by
interchange or repps. It makes card cutting easier and simplifies
defect tracing. |
| Dobby |
A
mechanical device, fitted to a weaving machine, which is capable of
being programmed to make dobby-weaves, by selectively raising some warp
threads and selectively depressing others. It regulates the harnesses
in the loom for controlling the movement of the heald shafts to give
small geometric patterns in the fabric being produced. |
| Dobby Fabric |
A
fabric, often of a complex construction and having a weave or effect,
the production of which require a dobby loom. The fabric is
characterised by the small geometric figures incorporated into the
weave. An example for dobby fabric is the shepherd’s check. |
| Dobby Loom |
A
loom, equipped with a dobby head, with which small geometric figures
can be woven in a regular pattern. It has healed capacity greater than
plain loom and also shows greater efficiency. Various colour and weave
effects can be woven using drop box motion at the shuttle box. It is an
expensive type of weaving. |
| Dobby Weave |
Any
one or a variety of weaves, the production of which require a dobby.
The weave is characterised by the small, repeating geometric patterns
developed on the fabric surface. |
| Doctor |
In
printing, a straight-edged steel blade, which is placed in contact with
the engraved cylinder and serves to scrape off the surplus colour from
the raised, non printing, surface. The term is now applied to any
blade-type squeegee. |
| Doctor’s Flannel |
A
soft, medium weight, inexpensive flannel fabric, made from wool or
mixed fibres. Usually made in white or red only. It is an ideal type of
fabric that could be used for interlining for warmth, lining children’s
clothes, nurses’ cloaks, etc. |
| Doctor Streak |
A
printing defect, which manifests as a wavy white or coloured streak in
the warp direction on a printed cloth, usually caused due to damaged or
improperly set doctor blade on the printing machine. |
| Doeskin |
A lamb’s leather, famous for its softness and easiness to sew.
|
| Doeskin-finish Fabric |
A
five- or eight-ends satin weave, or other warp-faced cotton fabric,
with a short nap finished dress-face. Often other weaves, like 2/1 warp
twill or 3/1 broken crow weaves are also used. The main characteristics
imparted by the finish are the doeskin effect and the kid-glove handle.
The better qualities are expensive. Though originally all wool, often
merino, or possibly blended wool including merino, it is now produced
from other fibres also. Used for formal tailored garments, dress
uniforms, men's wear, etc. |
| Doffing |
The term used to describe, the removal of textile material or packages
from a textile machine.
The term used to describe, the replacement of spinning packages,
which are full with empty spinning tubes (cops). This may be done
manually or by automatic doffing units.
|
| Doffing Tube |
In rotor spinning, an extension to the navel to guide the withdrawn yarn from the rotor. |
| Dolly |
A machine in which fabric pieces sewn end to end and are circulated
repeatedly through a processing bath by means of a single pair of
squeeze rollers and a drawing-off roller above the liquor. A device
for applying moisture during pressing. A strip of fabric is rolled up
tightly and bound with tape or string at one end and is used like a
brush.
An open-width washer, containing a few compartments, originally used
for dunging aged cotton prints, but now also used for any open-width
washing where a shorter machine than an open soaper is desired. |
| Domestic Knitting Machine |
A
complex but versatile knitting machine designed to be used in the home.
Most types feature some form of needle selection and some types have
computer controls. These machines have been widely used industrially
also, particularly by designer-led high fashion firms. |
| Domestics |
A
general term used in the textile industry to distinguish certain
fabrics for the house such as sheetings, pillow cases, towels,
blankets, and washcloths, from apparel fabrics. |
| Domete
|
Imitation
flannel made from a cotton warp and a wool or cotton-wool weft,
finished with a long nap on both sides. Used for interfacing coats and
jackets in which hair-canvas is to be used. It is placed against the
chest area of the coat and the hair-canvas on top. Prevents hair from
penetrating to the right side of the garment and also avoids showing a
hard ridge. It is also used for lining, skirting, and pyjamas and as
padded interlining for quilting. |
| Donkey |
A
pressing board, in which an upper padded board, is supported above the
base. Designed so that parts of a garment may be pressed without
creasing the garment as a whole. |
| Dope |
The
term used to describe the solution of a fibre-forming polymer (the
spinning-solution) as prepared for extruding through spinnerets |
| Dope Dyed |
The
term used to describe a man-made fibre, which has been coloured by
incorporating colouring matters like dye or pigment in the polymer
solution, before it is extruded and spun into yarn. |
| Dosuti
|
A fabric having two warp ends working in pairs and two weft picks are
placed in the same shed. Name originated from the Hindi word, which
literally means ‘two threads’.
The term is also used to describe a winding operation by which two
threads are combined together on a winding machine. |
| Dots |
The term used to describe, a design dominated by circular spots, which may be of any size, printed or woven into the fabric. |
| Dotted Swiss |
A
fine lightweight fabric, often a lawn or batiste, usually of cotton or
cotton blends, with a small dots pattern. The dots may vary in colour
and can be applied to the goods in a variety of methods including
flocking, clip spotting, swivel weaving, lappet weaving, etc Used for
evening wear, dress goods, curtaining, etc. |
| Down |
The
fine, soft plumage of ducks, geese, or other waterfowl, consisting of
light fluffy filaments having at least two barbs attached; i.e. barbs
growing from the quill point but without a quill shaft. |
| Down Fibres |
The
plumules and detached barbs from down. Down is very lightweight and
warm. Used for pillows, quilts, cushions, paddings, etc. |
| Downproof Fabric |
The
term used to describe a fabric which resists the penetration of down.
The fabric may be closely woven to be downproof by nature or may be
cired or coated to make it downproof. |
| Downproof Cambric |
A
cream coloured or white plain weave, cambric-weight cotton fabric,
which has been made feather-or down proof, by waxing or glazing its
surface. Used for pillow coverings, cushion covers, duvet covers,
mattress covers. |
| Deco |
The
term used to describe the designs, which suggest the art deco style of
the early decades, characterised by bold outlines and streamlined shapes |
| Decolourise |
The process of stripping colour from textile materials. |
| Deck-chair Canvas |
A
fabric in plain repp, or twill weave, made of vegetable or man-made
fibres, or a combination of any of these fibres. Traditionally, made in
a width not more than 500mm and weight not less than 185 g/m2.
|
| Detergency |
The
term means cleansing and, in its broadest sense, it is the removal of
any undesirable or foreign substance from a textile material. This
involves the removal of all impurities, leaving the fibre, fabric or
garment in such a state that they are equipped for the purpose for
which they are intended. Surface tension and detergency are closely
related. When dealing with textiles the basic detergents are
surface-active compounds. Adjacent molecules in solids and liquids
exert attractive forces on each other. It is apparent that the
molecules at the liquid/air interface differ from those in the body of
the liquid because of the absence of attractive forces at right angles
to the surface. The result is that the inward pull on these molecules
is greater than any of the others, creating a tendency for the surface
to contract. The phenomenon is referred to as surface tension.
Surface-active compounds such as soaps are not distributed evenly when
in solution but tend to become more concentrated at the surface layer
than in the body of the solvent. The reason is that the attraction
between the water dipoles is greater than that between the paraffin
chains and also between the latter and water. The introduction of these
aliphatic chains tends to separate the water molecules but the mutual
attraction of the latter is so great that the non-polar chains will be
forced out of the water phase.
The reduction in surface tension is caused by the tendency of the
hydrocarbon chains to move away from the water interface creating a
force in a direction opposite to the inward pull on water molecules at
the surface. The surface-active molecule or ion can be looked upon as a
bridge between the two phases making the transition between them less
abrupt. Another factor to be taken into consideration is that the
crowding together of molecules at the interface gives a closely packed
boundary layer offering resistance to the liability of the surface to
diminish in area. In textile scouring the task is to remove a film of
oil or wax with adhering dirt from the fibre. To do this successfully
three things must be accomplished: (a) the aqueous phase must wet the
surface of the fibre, (b) the oil, the wax and the dirt must be
detached from the fibre and, (c) a stable emulsion of the oil must be
formed so that it will not be redeposited. When a fibre, covered with a
layer of oil or wax, is immersed in a warm aqueous solution of soap and
observed under a microscope it will be seen that the oil or wax film
bunching up and ultimately collecting itself into spherical globules
which get very easily detached from the fibre surface.
|
| Dimethyl Terephthalate |
A chemical intermediate used in the manufacture of polyester |
| Dog-eared |
The term used to describe, fabrics that have a tendency to roll or curl diagonally after the pieces have been cut. |
| Donegal |
A
spun woollen yarn fabric, in plain weave structure composed of uneven
slub yarns, which contain a random distribution of flecks or slubs of
white or bright colour contrasting with the ground colour. Named after
the county Donegal, where it was originally produced. Made in a wide
range of weights and colour combinations for suiting and coating use.
Though tweeds are normally thought of as being masculine fabrics but in
this type, as in others, tweeds are made completely feminine in style
and colouring. Used for suits, coats, and sportswear. |
| Double Bow |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as two bows in a fabric arcing in the
same direction, as in a flattened ‘M’ or ‘W’ depending on the viewing
angle. |
| Double Braid |
A braided construction used in a rope, of two hollow braided ropes, one inside the other. |
| Double Braided Rope |
A
rope in which a number of strands are plaited to form a core and around
which are plaited further strands to form a sheath. The core lies
coaxially within the sheath. |
| Double Breasted |
A coat or other garment with wrap-over fronts having buttons and buttonholes on each forepart. |
| Double Canvas |
A
rigid embroidery canvas fabric, stiffened with size, available in
several weights. Usually made from cotton yarn in plain open weave with
the warp and weft threads arranged in pairs, allowing quite large holes
to alternate with very small ones. |
| Double Carding |
The
term used to describe, the practice of carding fibres, twice, so that
the yarn from it approaches a combed yarn in appearance. |
| Double Cloth |
A compound fabric woven on the same loom, in which two component
fabrics are held together by one of the following: (a)
centre-stitching, in which a special series of stitching threads, lying
between the two fabrics, are interlaced alternately with them and thus
bind them together, (b) self-stitching, in which threads from one
fabric interlace with the other (e.g. by taking a back warp thread over
a face weft thread) or (c) interchanging, in which the two fabrics are
so woven as to interchange with each other. In some cases, the fabrics
are completely interchanged whereas in others only the warp or weft
threads interchange. The two layers are often of different patterns,
colours or weaves. Used for coatings, sportswear, blankets and
upholstery.
A combination of two fabrics, woven in the same loom at the same time
held together by binder threads. One fabric forms the face of the goods
while the other forms the back. The binder yarns are made to weave
according to a plain, twill, or satin, arrangement. When the binder
threads are cut the fabrics are separated. |
| Double Combing |
The
term used to describe, the practice of combing cotton, twice, to
produce a very high quality, fine count yarn. The practice is generally
used in yarn counts finer than 100s, which are generally mule spun. |
| Double Damask |
A table damask fabric made with an 8-shaft satin weave. Single damask is made with a 5-end satin weave. |
| Doubled and Twisted Yarn |
The
term used to describe a two colour yarn with a spiral effect produced
by twisting together yarns of different colours in a two-ply
construction. |
| Double Dyed |
The
term used to describe a union fabric, which has been dyed twice. In the
first dyeing process, a dye with affinity for one of the fibres is used
and in the second dyeing, another dye with an affinity for the second
fibre is employed. This is in contrast with union dyeing. |
| Double-ended Needle |
The term used to describe a needle having a hook and a latch (or a beard) at each end.
See also Needle
|
| Double-faced Fabric |
A
reversible two-layer fabric, usually with a different colour or pattern
on each side; the fabric can be worn on either side. It is usually a
double cloth but some reversible bonded fabrics are also sometimes
referred to as double face fabric.
|
| Double-face Satin |
Yarn
woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin
construction. Has satin on both sides. Cotton filling is often used in
cheaper qualities. |
| Double-faced Jacquard |
A weft-knit, patterned rib-based fabric in which a different jacquard design appears on both sides of the fabric. |
| Double-hooked Bow |
A fabric defect, which manifests as one hooked bow on each side of the fabric, which are in opposite directions. |
| Double Hosiery |
The term used to describe, stockings with reinforced toe and heel, to give the appearance of a double thread. |
| Double Jersey |
A
weft knit fabric, in which two layers of loops are formed that cannot
be separated. It is produced on a ‘double knit’ machine, which is
equipped with two complete sets of needles so that a double thickness
of fabric is produced in which the two sides of the fabric are
interlocked and patterns are formed by interchanging yarns between face
and back needles.. These fabrics are more stable than single jersey
because yarns are not required to show on the face are knit into the
back thus avoiding long floats and loose structure. They are slower to
make and more expensive than single jersey fabrics. The firm, textured,
heavy fabric and are characterised by the fact that both right and
wrong sides are identical, i.e. they look like stocking stitch. Used
for skirts, trousers, jackets, warm dresses, light coats. Weft-rib and
modified weft-rib knit fabrics are used as piece goods. |
| Double Jersey Knitting Machine |
IA
circular knitting machine, having two sets of needles disposed at 90
degree to one another, and used for the production of piece goods in
rib fabric. |
| Double Knitting Yarn |
The term used to describe a four-ply hand knitting yarn with a resultant yarn number of approximately 440tex. |
| Double Lift |
A
dobby and jacquard weaving mechanisms in which there are two griffes or
knives, one operating on odd picks, the other on even picks, to effect
the lift. |
| Double Line Twills |
A
term used to describe, the twill weaves which produce a pattern, in
which two of the twill lines are spaced close together with a gap
before the pattern repeats |
| Double Locker Machine |
A plain net machine, in which the motion of the carriages is imparted by driving and locker bars. |
| Double London |
The term used to describe a worsted twill tape, generally with a two-fold warp. |
| Double Marl Yarn |
A
yarn, which has been produced from a roving of one end of two colours
(as in single marl) twisted with one end of another two colours that
have been roved together. |
| Double Needle Seam |
A
seam normally employed on heavy garments like, jeans, jackets, etc.,
where a sewing machine stitches two threads side by side at the same
time, for strength and fashion. |
| Double Plush Loom |
A loom in which two pieces of plush are woven one above the other. |
| Double Printing |
A second printing on top of a previously printed fabric.
Printing a design on the back (wrong side) of a cloth different from the design on the face (right side).
See Duplex Printing
|
| Double Reverse Bow |
A fabric defect, which manifests as two fabric bows arcing in opposite directions. |
| Double Roving Spinning |
A
system of spinning, in which two rovings are fed to each spindle of a
ring frame, so producing a pseudo two-fold or two-strand yarn. The
rovings are separated in the drafting system by means of special guides
and the two drafted strands then combined after the drafting system. |
| Doubles |
A yarn defect, caused by forming a yarn from more than the required number of component strands.
A term occasionally used for two-ply yarns, especially cotton in the U.S.
|
| Double Satin |
A
very expensive fine fabric made as the name suggests, with a double
satin weave so that both sides are lustrous, and may be different
colours, and the weft is completely hidden. |
| Double Satin Ribbon |
Originally
a ribbon in which every other warp end floats on one surface and the
other warp ends on the other surface in a satin weave. Now, it is more
often produced in a 4/4 weave, and thus every end floats alternately on
both surfaces and is produced from continuous filament yarns. |
| Double Selvedge |
A
selvedge formed by interweaving a strong selvedge end with the legs of
the protruding loops, using a small reciprocating shuttle. |
| Double Serge |
A
serge fabric made of two warps and two fillings. It is heavier than
other worsted serges and is clear finished, dyed in the piece. |
| Double Shot |
The
construction of a narrow fabric ribbon or galloon in which the body of
the fabric is made of 2/2 weave, providing a pronounced weft-way rib. A
plane weave binder separates the body from the selvedge. |
| Double Spun Yarn |
The
term used to describe a smooth yarn free of knots and imperfections,
which is the result of extra care and improved handling during
manufacture. It is a misnomer, as there is any double spinning involved. |
| Double-stitched Seam Finish |
A
finish for the raw edges of a plain seam, in which another row of
machine stitching is made through both seam allowances placed together.
A double-stitched seam-finish is made by machine stitching through both
seam allowances together approximately 3 mm away from the original seam
line within the seam allowance, forcing the seam allowance to be turned
only in one direction. |
| Double Twill Weave |
A fancy weave in which continuous right-hand twill is crossed by a left-hand twill |
| Double-V Twill |
A weave used in narrow fabrics, in which there are two repeats of a herringbone pattern in the width of the fabric. |
| Double-warp Knitted Plush |
A
pile fabric produced on a double needle-bar Raschel warp-knitting
machine, by knitting separate ground fabrics on each needle bar and
connecting them by pile threads, which knit on both needle bars so that
two fabrics are produced face to face. The fabrics are then separated
to produce two cut pile fabrics. |
| Double Weave Fabric |
A fabric woven with two complete sets of warp and weft yarns. Only one set is visible on the face at any one point. |
| Double Welt Seam |
A
complex seam formed on the inside of the object, with one trimmed raw
seam edge enclosed and two rows of stitching visible on the face side.
A double welt seam is made like a welt seam except that a second row of
topstitching is stitched close to the original seamline. The three rows
of stitching visible on the backside are the original seamline, the row
of stitching through the article and the wider of the seam allowances,
and the row added near the original seam line. |
| Doubling |
The
operation of combining two or more single yarns, by twisting them
together to form a doubled yarn. Doubling ensures averaging of the
unevenness and other variations of each yarn. The initial twist and
resultant doubling twist quoted |
| Doubling Defect |
A yarn defect, caused by forming a yarn from more than the required number of component strands. |
| Doublings |
The
term used to describe the number of laps, rovings, slivers or
slubbings, fed concurrently into a machine for drafting into a single
end, to ensure proper blending and regularity.. |
| Doupion |
A
silk-breeding term used to describe an uneven type of silk filament,
which has been spun from two cocoons that had nested together. During
spinning, the double filament was not been separated, giving it a
unique thick and thin appearance. The irregular, raw, rough silk is
used for making pongee, nankeen, shantung, and other fine silk fabrics
where this characteristic look is so desired. |
| Doupion Fabric |
A
rough textured, fabric having an uneven surface, and characteristic
slubs, made from irregular doupion yarns. Though originally a silk
fabric, doupions are now made from man-made fibre substitutes designed
in uneven thickness to imitate the silk; it is recommended that in such
contexts the name of the fibre be indicated. Doupions are usually made
as firm, medium-weight fabrics of plain weave. Used for women’s summer
suits, wedding outfits, etc. |
| Dowlas |
TOriginally,
a plain-woven coarse linen fabric used for clothing. Now, the term
refers to a low-quality cotton fabric made of coarse rough-spun yarn,
finished to imitate linen and used for towels, aprons, etc. |
| Drafting |
An operation, employed in the early stages of spun yarn manufacturing,
for attenuating the fibres and increasing the length per unit weight of
laps, slivers, slubbings and rovings. In other words, it is a process
that reduces the linear density of an assembly of fibres. During
drafting, the degree of attenuation calculated either as the ratio of
the input to output linear densities, or as the ratio of the surface
speeds of the output and input machine components which bring about
drafting.
The term used to describe the order, in which threads are drawn
through the heald-eyes before weaving. A constructed plan of a
garment; the application of body or garment measurements to a flat
plane. |
| Dragging End |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as, one or several wales in a
warp-knitted fabric, in which the laps appear shorter than those in the
adjacent normal wales. It is usually caused by excessive tension in one
or more warp yarns. |
| Drainage |
The
term used to describe, the capability of a geo textile to collect and
transport fluids. Liquids or gases are transmitted within the plane of
the geo textile, which involves flow across the geo textile, e.g. usage
of geo textiles to capture and transmit gases, like methane, beneath
the geo membrane in a landfill capping system. |
| Drape |
The
term used to describe, the way a fabric falls when hung. Or in simple
terms, the quality of a fabric, which permits it to mould sufficiently
to hang in pleasing form and graceful folds when hung or arranged in
different positions. The draping quality of fabrics varies depending on
their structure, composition and finish applied on them. It is
indicative of the flexibility and suppleness of a fabric. |
| Drape Meter |
A device employed for measurement of the drape quality of a fabric. |
| Drapery |
A
group of decorative fabrics used in home for hangings around windows,
walls, etc. The fabrics are made of virtually all types of fibres and
blends, including glass fibres. |
| Drapey |
The
term used to describe a fabric with good drape, that is, one that is
supple and falls easily into graceful folds when hung or tailored. |
| Draping |
The term used to mean, ‘to hang or to adorn the body form with a loose fabric’.
The term used to mean, ‘to obtain a body fitted garment by using adequate sewing techniques’.
|
| Draughting |
In
lace production, the conversion of a design into diagrammatic form,
preparatory to punching of Jacquard cards, or assembly of pattern
chains, or preparation of magnetic tape. |
| Draw |
A sample of fibres extracted manually from a bulk lot of raw material
or sliver with a view to assessing the length and/or distribution of
length of fibre within the sample.
In a spinning or a twining mule, the cycle of operations of the
carriage, from the start of the outward run to the finish of the inward
run.
|
| Draw-back |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as a weave distortion characterised by
tight and slack places in the same warp yarn, caused by excessive
tension gradually applied by some abnormal restriction, and when the
restriction is removed, the excess slack is woven into the fabric.
Usually the ends are broken. |
| Draw Cord |
A cord in a garment, which passes through a channel and allows the garment to be gathered. |
| Draw-down Ratio |
In
man-made filament extrusion, the ratio of take-up or haul-off speed to
the average speed of the spinning fluid as it leaves the spinneret |
| Drawing |
In staple yarn spinning, the operation following carding operation. It
is an operation of blending slivers, levelling them and drafting them
to form rovings. During drawing, the order of the fibres is improved
and the sliver drawn out to form a thinner rope. This is brought about
by passing the material through a succession of rollers arranged in
pairs, each pair always running at a greater speed than the previous
pair. Irregularities can also be reduced by doubling up. Several ropes
or slivers are combined and drawn out to the thickness of one original
sliver. The fibres are then more parallel and the rope is more uniform
in weight and thickness.
In synthetic filaments and films, the stretching to near the limit of
plastic flow of synthetic filaments or films of relatively low
molecular orientation. This process orients the molecular chains in the
direction of stretching. In sewing, the stitching together of two
edges to create the appearance of being seamed in the ordinary way.
Performed by alternately passing the needle through each folded edge
and interlining to draw the two edges close together. |
| Drawing-drafting |
An industrial process, during which slivers are pulled out after carding and/or combing. |
| Drawing-in |
In weaving, the process of drawing the warp ends from the warp beam
through the eyes of the healds and the dents of the reed of the loom.
The operation thus includes that of reeding. A plan is followed so that
the actual weave from design paper will be produced in the woven cloth.
In sewing, a running stitch drawn to achieve gathering or gauging of
the material. There is also a form of drawing-in used for the purpose
of holding folds in various forms on garments as in the gowns of
barristers, children’s frocks, etc. |
| Draw Mechanism |
In
a straight-bar knitting machine, the mechanism for converting rotary
motion into reciprocating motion for the purpose of laying the yarn and
kinking it round the needles. |
| Drawn Piece |
The
term used to describe, a piece of fabric in which, as a result of
distortion during some process subsequent to weaving, the warp yarns
are not at right angles to the weft yarns. |
| Drawn-pile Finish |
A
fabric finish employed to produce a surface napping or piles laid in
one direction. It is normally achieved by raising of the damp or wet
fabric. |
| Drawn Work |
A method of decorating fabrics by drawing out certain threads and
fastening the remaining threads with fancy stitches into patterns. Also
made by drawing some of the threads of the fabric to one side, leaving
others or replacing drawn threads by others of different colours. Linen
fabric is popular for this type of work. . |
| Drawn Yarn |
An
extruded yarn that has been subjected to a stretching or drawing
process to orient the long-chain molecules, of which it is composed of.
|
| Draw Pin |
A
stationary pin or guide, which by inducing a localised change in yarn
tension and/or temperature may be used to stabilize the position of the
draw-point or neck in some processes of drawing of man-made-fibre
yarns. |
| Draw Spinning |
A
process of spinning partially or highly oriented filaments, in which
the orientation is introduced prior to the first forwarding or
collecting device. |
| Draw Texturing |
IA
process, in which the drawing stage of man-made yarn manufacture is
combined with the texturing process on a single machine. The drawing
and texturing stages take place in separate, usually consecutive, zones
of a machine (sequential draw-texturing) or together in the same zone
(simultaneous draw-texturing). |
| Draw Threads |
F
In knitting, the threads introduced in the form of one row of loops
during knitting which, on removal, permits the separation of articles
that are knitted as a succession of units connected together.
In lace, the removable threads included in the construction of lace
either to act as a temporary support for certain parts of the pattern
or to hold together narrow widths or units, that are separated
subsequently by their removal. |
| Draw Twist |
A
process, in which a filament yarn is imparted orientation by drawing it
and then twisting it in integrated sequential stages. |
| Draw Warping |
A
process for the preparation of warp beams or section beams from a creel
of packages of partially oriented yarn in which the traditionally
separate stages of drawing and beaming are combined sequentially on one
machine |
| Draw Wind |
The
operation of orienting a filament yarn by drawing it, and then winding
it to form a package in an integrated process without imparting any
twist. |
| Dresden |
A small floral design generally done on silk fabrics, produced by printed warps, in imitation of delicate ‘Dresden China’ |
| Dresden Point Lace |
A fine linen fabric with threads withdrawn, and embroidered to form a square mesh design. |
| Dress |
The term describes clothing in general, and particularly outerwear or garments worn by women and children. |
| Dress Career Apparel |
A
career apparel which is not generally subject to abusive wear and for
which appearance is a more important attribute than durability. Fabrics
for dress career apparel are usually categorised as heavy, medium and
light. |
| Dresser Sizing |
A
method of warp preparation, used particularly in linen industry, which
incorporates sizing. Yam in sheet form is withdrawn from two warp beams
(one set at each end of the machine) and wound onto a loom beam at a
headstock. Each half of the machine has its own size box and hot air
drying arrangement. |
| Dress-face Finish |
A
mechanical finish employed on the surface of a woollen fabric to impart
the fabric a high lustre by close cropping. It is achieved partly by
raising and cropping and partly by maintaining a high degree of
regularity of the lie of the fibres. |
| Dressing |
The term used to describe the operation of finishing a fabric.
In warp preparation, the operation of assembling of yarns from a ball
warp, beam warp, or chain warp on a beam immediately prior to weaving.
In lace manufacture, the operation of stretching lace, net, or
lace-furnishing products to size, and then drying after the application
of stiffening or softening agents. The stretching and drying may be
carried out on either a running stenter or a stationary frame. The
term used sometimes in textile parlance as a synonym for ‘sizing’.
|
| Drier Creases |
The
term used to describe, sharp folds or lines running in any direction in
a laundered or dried textile material. Dryer creases are unintended,
caused by restricted movement of the textile material in the washer or
the dryer. |
| Drill |
A
rugged, thick, hardwearing twill weave fabric, usually made in cotton,
similar to denim but better in quality and smoother in appearance, made
in various weights. Usually made in warp faced twill weaves such as 3 x
1, and 2 x 1, as in denim but also made in satin weave. Called khaki
when dyed that particular color. The fabric most commonly known as
drill, is made in white, khaki and various plain dark working colours
and in striped styles for protective clothing, tropical clothing,
uniforms, and leisure wear. Some cotton fabrics sold as gabardines for
dresswear are actually drills only. |
| Drilling |
The
term used to describe the method of marking of key positions, such as
pockets and darts through all thickness of a lay by use of a drilling
machine, or similar machine with a hollow needle. |
| Drip-dry |
The
term used to describe a type of wash-and-wear fabric, that is
reasonably resistant to disturbance of fabric structure and appearance
during wear and washing. After washing, garment is hung up dripping wet
and allowed to drain. Usually requires little or no ironing after
drying in this manner. |
| Drop |
The term used to describe, that part of a bedcovering that hangs perpendicular to the floor. |
| Drop Loop |
A
method of lowering the belt loop, below the top of the trouser
waistband (usually 1 to 2 cm) or dress waist. This method prevents the
belt from riding above the waist. |
| Dropped Pick |
A
major weaving defect, caused by the weft insertion mechanism on a
shuttleless loom not holding the weft yarn, resulting in the weft to be
woven without tension. The weft yarn is then gets woven into the fabric
producing a kinky appearance and areas of end-outs. |
| Drop Ply |
A
fabric defect, which manifests as warp or weft yarn does not having the
correct or uniform number of plies, caused by faulty twisting or mixed
bobbins. |
| Drop Shoulder |
The
shape of the junction between the sleeve and the body of a garment,
where the junction runs between the underarm point and a position below
the extreme end of the shoulder, i.e. on the upper arm itself. |
| Drop Stitch |
In knit fabrics, a construction made to control the degree of unlooping
of certain stitches and to provide for opening needle latches when
necessary. It is generally limited to jersey and rib fabrics for either
fabric design or for the separation of rib fabric pieces. Used in knit
shirts and dress fabrics.
The term used to describe a knit fabric with an open stripe design at
set intervals made by removing some of the needles.
A major fabric defect in knit fabric, which manifests as a hole or
missing stitch, caused by an ‘unknit’ stitch, resulting from
malfunctioning the needle or jack. |
| Drop Wire |
One
of a series of wire or metal strips suspended on individual warp
threads during warping or weaving. When the thread breaks, the drop
wire falls down, activating a switch that stops the loom. |
| Dry Chlorination |
The term used to describe, a process of chlorination under non-aqueous conditions, e.g. by chlorine gas
. |
| Dry Cleaning |
WA
cleansing process for removing grease, oil, dust and dirt from a
textile material by treating them in an organic solvent as distinct
from aqueous liquors. Some of the suitable solvents are white spirit,
trichloroethylene and tetrachloroethylene (perchloroethylene). The
process also includes addition of detergent and moisture to the solvent
to 75 % relative humidity, and hot tumble-drying at71° C. The process
consists of cleaning, rinsing, spinning and drying. Unaffected stains
have to be removed by other special agents. Originally dry cleaning
process was known as ‘French cleaning’. |
| Dry-combed Top |
A
wool top containing not more than 1.0% of fatty matter based on the
oven-dry fat-free weight. The standard regain of a dry-combed top is
18.25 % based on the combined weight of oven-dry fat-free wool and the
fatty matter. |
| Dry Finishing |
A
general term, applied to any fabric finishing process which is
accomplished in a dry state, e.g. brushing, burling, calendaring,
cropping, friction calendaring, gassing, gigging, glazing, measuring,
mending, napping, perching, or schreinerizing, sewing, shearing,
singeing, specking, pressing, etc. |
| Drying Cylinder |
The
term used to describe heated, rotating hollow cylinder around which
textile material is passed in contact to dry it. It may consist of a
series of cylinders with which the material is in contact on alternate
faces or, by the use of auxiliary rollers, one face only of the
material is arranged to touch the surface of the cylinder. Large single
cylinders are also used for faced cloths, to avoid flattening the
surface or raised threads on one side, and for drying backfilled
cloths. |
| Dry-laid Non-woven |
A fabric made from a fibre web or batt by dry-laying, followed by a bonding process. |
| Dry Spinning |
In
man-made fibre production, the process of extruding the solution of a
fibre-forming polymer through a spinneret into a hot chamber, heated by
steam or hot air; the solvent evaporates leaving the fibrous polymer,
which is drawn into solid filaments. |
| Dry-spun |
V A man-made filament produced by dry spinning.
A worsted yarn produced from a dry-combed top or of synthetic or blended yarns spun on similar machinery.
A coarse flax yarn spun from air-dry roving.
|
| Dtex (dtex) |
Acronym
for ‘decitex’. It is the weight per unit length measurement equal to
the weight in grams of a 10,000 metre length of yarn or filament. |
| Duchess |
An
8-12 shaft satin. It is a dress fabric. Very fine yarns are used,
particularly in the warp with more ends/inch than picks. The material
is string, has a high lustre, and texture, and it is firm. Usually 36"
wide. Characterized by grainy twill on back.. |
| Duchesse Lace |
A traditional type of bobbin bar lace with a design of fine bands or
tapes, worked with very fine threads. A guipure lace characterized by
floral and leaf designs with very little ground. Heavier threads are
intertwined to give raised texture. Used in bridal veils and gowns. . |
| Duchesse Satin |
A
very smooth, rich-look, yarn-dyed satin fabric, heavier in weight than
the average dress satin and woven with very fine warp crossing over at
least 7 weft threads at a time, which produces a pearl-like lustre on
the satin face. Originally made from silk, but now it is more likely to
be viscose with a non-lustrous fairly thick weft to give the requisite
firmness. Typical end uses are wedding gowns, evening wear and cocktail
dresses. |
| Duck |
The
term used to describe a group of compact, durable, heavy fabrics,
having a canvas-like appearance, made from medium to coarse cotton or
linen in plain weave. The warp yarns are in pairs and form a
distinctive effect. Used for sails, awnings, tents, etc. Some of the
important fabrics in this group are: flat duck, plied yarn duck, number
duck, army duck and flat or ounce duck. |
| Duffel |
A
heavy low-grade woollen fabric, napped on both the face and back. It is
generally made for short coats referred to as Duffel coats. It has its
origin in Duffel, Antwerp. |
| Dull |
A term used to describe textile materials, the lustre of which has been reduced.
. |
| Dull Fibre |
A term used to describe the level of delustrant incorporated into a manufactured fibre.
|
| Dullness |
The
colour quality, an increase in which is comparable to the effect of the
addition of a small quantity of neutral grey colorant; it is the
opposite of ‘bright’ |
| Dummy |
A padded frame, shaped like a human torso, usually mounted on a pedestal. A tailor’s or dressmaker’s stand. |
| Dumping |
The
term used to describe an offer for sale of large quantities of goods in
a foreign market at low prices, usually in order to gain market share,
while maintaining higher prices in the home market. Dumping may be
deemed to have taken place when a product is sold in a foreign market
at a price, which is less than the cost of production plus a normal
profit margin. |
| Dungaree |
A
trouser made from denim or denim-type fabric and designed for general
workwear. The name has its origin from the Hindi word used to describe
the trousers worn by sailors from the Indian port of Dungri long time
ago. |
| Dungaree Fabric |
The
term used to describe a coarse and hardwearing cotton fabric, woven in
3/1 or 2/1 twill, similar to denim, but the warp and the weft are
usually in the same colour. Some are piece dyed, but better qualities
are made from dyed warp and weft yarns. Originally used for sailors'
work clothes, it is now used for overalls, jeans, dungarees and
children’s clothes. |
| Dunging |
Measure
of the interaction between the fabric weight and fabric stiffness, as
shown by the way in which a fabric bends under its own weight. It
reflects the stiffness of a fabric when bent in one plane under the
force of gravity, and is a vital component of fabric drape.
|
| Dunging |
In dyeing and printing, a traditional method of removal of surplus mordant by means of immersion in a bath of dung.
|
| Durable Press |
The
term used to describe a finishing treatment, applied on fabric or
garment, to impart them the ability to retain substantially, the
specific contours including shape, creases, pressed-in pleats, seams,
and unwrinkled appearance during normal usage, washing and/or dry
cleaning. The most widely used method of application involves the usage
of synthetic resins, which are applied on the textile material and then
subjected to curing; the treatment can be carried out either in the
fabric stage or after the fabrication of the garment. In case of
textiles composed of heat-settable fibres, the method employed is high
temperature pressing. Though ‘permanent press’ is used as an
alternative, it now deprecated. Since no finishing is permanent in the
literal sense, the term durable press has won acceptance in the market
as more descriptive than permanent press. |
| Durable Water Repellent |
The
term used to describe a fabric, that retains its ability to repel
water, even after repeated washings, dry cleanings, or heavy wear. |
| Duvetyne |
The
term used to describe a medium to heavy weight fabric somewhat similar
to doeskin, but more velvety and lighter in weight. The sueded, soft,
velvet-like surface is produced by napping, followed by shearing and
brushing of the right side. The fabric is used mainly for suits, coats,
millinery, women’s dresses and hats. Though normally, produced in twill
weave from wool, it is made from other fibres too. |
| Dye |
It
can be described in a variety or ways. Some of them are:
? A substance, which can be applied to a material and brings about a
permanent change in the original colour of that material. ? A
chromophore containing chemical, which on application to another
suitable material imparts colour to it accordingly. ? A colorant that
has substantivity for a substrate, either inherent or induced by
reactants.
? A colorant applied to or formed in a substrate, via the molecularly
dispersed state, which exhibits some degree of performance. Dyes may be
either natural or synthetic and differ in effectiveness and methods of
application. There are many classes of dyes. Refer for individual class
of dye under their particular class name. |
| Dye Affinity |
A
quantitative expression of substantivity of a substrate. It is the
difference between the chemical potential of the dye in its standard
state in the fibre and the corresponding chemical potential in the dye
bath. |
| Dyed Style Printing |
A method of patterning fabrics, in which the design is painted or
printed in mordant and subsequently dyed. During dyeing, only those
areas of the fabric, which have been mordanted, take the colour in a
fast form. |
| Dye Fixing |
The process employed to enhance colourfastness of shades by treating
the dyed material with one or more types of chemical baths. Mostly
dyeings with direct dyes are subjected to after-treatment. |
| Dye Fixing Agent |
A substance, generally organic, applied to a dyed or printed material for improving its fastness to wet treatments. |
| Dyeing |
The
term used to describe, the application of a dye to a textile substrate
(fibre, yarn, fabric, garment, etc.), normally with the intention of
obtaining an even distribution throughout the substrate. In other
words, the process of colouring fibres, yarns, fabrics or garments;
there may or may not be thorough penetration of the colorant into the
fibres or yarns. |
| Dyestuffs |
The
name given to materials, solutions, or matters that can colour
textiles. Dyestuffs may be classed according to their origin; animal
dyes, vegetable dyes, mineral dyes, and synthetic. A dyestuff imparts
coloration to the material onto which it is affixed, by the
discriminate absorption of light, i.e. the dyestuff selectively
retaining some of the wavelengths out of the light falling upon the
surface. Hence, if a dye absorbs strongly at the red end of the
spectrum, the reflected light will be of a bluish hue. Only a limited
number of organic molecules have this property of absorbing light
discriminately.
Animal and vegetable dyes have always been used. But these dyes are
limited in range and application of natural dyes need extensive
pretreatments with mordants. Now most natural dyes have been replaced
by synthetic dyes.
Dyestuffs are made from synthetic organic chemicals. These are called
‘dye intermediates’, as they are made from basic chemicals such as
benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, etc. They are intermediates lying
between basic chemicals and the final dyestuffs:
Basic chemicals ? intermediates ? Dyestuffs
The intermediates are substituted products of the of the basic
chemicals obtained by introducing sulphonic, nitro, chloro, bromo,
amino and other groups in place of hydrogen atoms of the basic
chemicals. Many of the reactions such as sulphonation, nitration,
chlorination, etc., result in the formation of more than one product,
depending on the reaction conditions. When one of the desired
intermediate is made, it is accompanied by some amount of other
unintended intermediates also. Thus, when the desired intermediate form
a desired colour, the unintended intermediates form dyes of different
but unintended colours too. If these by-products were formed in
different amounts in different batches, there would be corresponding
batch-to-batch variation in the hue of the resulting dyestuffs.
However, the dyestuff manufacturer markets a commercial dyestuff having
a standardised hue by adding a toning dyestuff to the batch. A
commercial dyestuff of any particular manufacturer contains the
principal colorant (formed from the main intermediate), an auxiliary
colorant (formed from the impurity accompanying the main intermediate),
and if necessary, a toning colorant. The commercial naming of dyestuffs
is done in a systematic fashion which include the following details in
sequential order: Producer’s brand name - Colour - Designatory letters
defining shade - Strength - and Physical form. |
| Dye Streak |
Dyeing
defect. An unintended irregular discoloration in a fabric, resulting
due to uneven absorption of a colorant during dyeing.
Printing defect. An unintended irregular discoloration in a fabric,
resulting from a bent or damaged doctor blade or a doctor blade not
cleaned properly during printing. Usually it will appear as a long
streak until operator notices the problem.
|
| Dye Wood |
The term used to describe a particular group of timbers, which contain extractable colouring matter.
|
| Dye Wood Extract |
The term used to describe the natural dyes of vegetable origin, obtained by extraction.
|
| Dye Wood |
The term used to describe a particular group of timbers, which contain extractable colouring matter.
|
| Dye Wood Extract |
The term used to describe the natural dyes of vegetable origin, obtained by extraction.
. |
