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C. I. GENERIC NAME ³ See Colour Index generic name. See Colour Index generic name.
C.I. CONSTITUTION NUMBER ³ See Colour Index constitution number. See Colour Index constitution number.
C.I.GENERIC NAME ³ C.I. generic name is a classification name, which when allocated to a commercial preparation allows that preparation to be uniquely identified within any Colour Index Application class The allocation of Colur Index generic names to commercial colorants is done by the Colour Index Editorial Board. C.I. generic name is a classification name, which when allocated to a commercial preparation allows that preparation to be uniquely identified within any Colour Index Application class. This enables the particular commercial preparation to be classified along with other preparation, whose essential colorant results form a single chemical reaction, or a series of reactions. Products obtained by physical admixture of essential colorants are excluded. The publishers of Colour Index International cautions the users that a listing therein of a commercial preparation is no guarantee of its acceptability for manufacturer or use in those countries having such legislation.
The dyestuffs are first classified according to usage. Further they are subdivided depending on the hue (colour) of the dye. Thus, dyestuffs are grouped as acid, basic, direct, disperse, vat dyes, etc., and in each group they are subdivided as yellow, orange, red, violet, blue, green, brown and black. Dyestuffs of each colour from each usage class are given consecutive numbers.
When different dyestuff manufacturers produce a dyestuff of a particular colour in a given usage class and having the same known structure (hence a C.I. Constitution Number is assigned to the dyestuff), all these commercial dyes are given the same generic name. On the other hand, if, a num-ber of dyes of the same hue and tone (after dyeing on fibres) but the structure is not known in pub-lished literature, these are allocated five different C.I. generic names. These five different names are given to the five dyes of the respective manufacturers, even if the dye structure is the same. As long as the structure is not disclosed in the published literature, the dyestuffs have different C.I. generic names. When a research publication from a research organisation or from a university determines the structure of a series of commercial dyestuffs, by analytical and synthetic routes, and the results appear in a reputed journal, these are taken note of and they are assigned C.I. Constitution numbers depending on the chromophores present in them. This information is periodically published as Sup-plements to Colour Index International and at an appropriate time incorporated in the revised edi-tion of Colour Index International.
Colorants listed under a C.I. generic name whose serial number contains a colon differ slightly from those listed under the parent CI generic name. This slight difference is usually chemical, but may be physical in the case of certain pigments. See also Colour Index International and C.I. constitution number.
CABANA CLOTH fabrics Brightly coloured fabric Brightly coloured fabric used for beach and resort wear
CABINET DRY processes, operations A method of drying or deodorizing. A method of drying or deodorizing. Hot air is circulated around the immovable object being dried. Temperatures range upto 160ºF (71.2ºC). Drying time may be long.
CABLE CORD accessories A cord consisting of three case cords that have been over-twisted and are then twisted together in the reverse direction. A cord consisting of three case cords that have been over-twisted and are then twisted together in the reverse direction. The smaller sizes are often referred to as lacing cords and the larger sizes, traditionally over 6 mm in diameter, as French crêpe cord
CABLE KNIT seams, stitches Also called Cable stitch. A stitch in knitting Also called Cable stitch. A stitch in knitting that produces the appearance of a heavy cord in a raised rope stripe; often found in sweaters and sports hosiery.
CABLE LAID ROPE accessories See under Rope. See under Rope.
CABLE STITCH seams, stitches See Cable knit See Cable knit
CABLE TWIST fibers, filaments, yarns The construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope The construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope in which each successive twist is in the opposite direction to the preceding twist; an S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction.
CABLED YARN fibers, filaments, yarns A yarn formed, by twisting together two or more plied yarns. A yarn formed, by twisting together two or more plied yarns.
CAD general Acronym for 'Computer aided design'. Acronym for 'Computer aided design'. Term used to describe the stages whereby a computer is employed to assist in the designing of a product.
CAKE fibers, filaments, yarns A package of continuous filament yarn A package of continuous filament yarn produced during the box spinning of viscose
CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE ³ See under Chemic See under Chemic
CALENDER apparatus, equipage, tools A machine used in calendering process. A machine used in calendering process. See Calendering
CALENDER BONDED fabrics Thermally-bonded nonwoven fabric, in which calender rollers are used to apply heat and pressure to a fibre web or batt Thermally-bonded nonwoven fabric, in which calender rollers are used to apply heat and pressure to a fibre web or batt, thus causing bonding by the softening or melting of the heat-sensitive material. Embossed calender rollers are in common use for Point bonding
CALENDERING processes, operations A process by which the fabric is made compact, flat and glazed A process by which the fabric is made compact, flat and glazed. Usually the fabric surface is not flat, particularly in ordinary quality plain weave fabrics, because of the round shape of the yarns and interlacings of warp and weft at right angles to each other. In such a fabric it is seen that whilst the fabric may be quite regular, it is not flat.
In calendering, the fabric is passed between the rollers of a calender machine, in which heavy rollers rotate in contact under pressure. The yarns are squashed into a flattened elliptical shape; the intersections are made to close-up between the yarns. The fabric surface becomes flat and compact. The improved planeness of surface in turn improves the glaze of the fabric. The calender machines can have several rollers, some of which can be heated and varied in speed, so that in addition to pressure a polishing action can be exerted to increase lustre.
CALF GIRTH garments, made-ups, assemblies Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system.
CALF LEATHER fabrics Very soft, pliable leather of top quality. Very soft, pliable leather of top quality. Used as the basis of good patent leather because it takes a high polish. Used for gloves and shoes
CALIBRATION OF YARN processes, operations The measurement of the diameter of yarn The measurement of the diameter of yarn
CALICO fabrics Generic term for cheap plain cotton fabric heavier than muslin, often printed Generic term for cheap plain cotton fabric heavier than muslin, often printed. Fairly closely woven but varying in fineness and weight depending on quality. One of the oldest basic cotton fabrics, it is named after Calicut in India where it was first produced. In the same grouping as percale, but coarser and poorer quality.
CAM general Short for 'Computer aided manufacture'. Short for 'Computer aided manufacture'. Term used to describe processes of making a product where the production machine is controlled by a computer.
CAM LOCK SLIDER accessories In zippers, a slider that incorporates a curled projection or projections In zippers, a slider that incorporates a curled projection or projections on the pull that extends through a window or windows to effect a locking action by pressing against the interlocking elements when the cam lock slider is in the locked position
CAMBRÉ fabrics A term for lightweight, sheer, open weave linen fabric. A term for lightweight, sheer, open weave linen fabric.
CAMBRIAN TWEED fabrics Rough woollen fabric made in the uplands of Mid-Wales from the local hardy sheep. Rough woollen fabric made in the uplands of Mid-Wales from the local hardy sheep. Plain weave, hopsack, or herringbone weaves are the most usual and the yarns are either dyed with synthetic dyes for better fastness or, more attractively, left in their natural colours of white, grey and black (al-though the sheep in the field look brown), and mixed together. Used for hardwearing clothes such as men's suits, sports jackets, Norfolk skirts and jackets. The coarser yarn is made into rugs.
CAMBRIC fabrics A closely woven, fine, firm, plain weave fabric, heavier than lawn, finished with size to give a slight shine on the right side. A closely woven, fine, firm, plain weave fabric, heavier than lawn, finished with size to give a slight shine on the right side. Mainly in plain colours. Usually cotton but can also be made in linen. The yarns are not set closely together and the finish is soft and smooth. Used for dresses, baby clothes, children's clothes, nightwear, blouses, and handkerchiefs.
CAMEL CLOTH fabrics Term now used to describe any camel-coloured coating fabric with a soft feel and slight pile. Term now used to describe any camel-coloured coating fabric with a soft feel and slight pile. May be wool, wool and acrylic, or other mixtures. They are cheap imitations of real camel hair, but some are very good quality and expensive too. Sometimes made as a reversible cloth with cream colour on the other side. Fabric used for coatings, scarves, and rugs. See also Camel hair.
CAMEL HAIR fibers, filaments, yarns The fibre comes from the Bactrian (two-humped) camel. The fibre comes from the Bactrian (two-humped) camel. These are two-coat animals and shed lumps of hair all the year round. The fine undercoat hairs vary in length from 25 - 125 mm and they are very soft like wool and gives warmth without weight. The outer beard hairs are up to 375 mm and they are very coarse and tough.
The fine hairs have its characteristic colours' reddish fawn, light tan, to dark brown, and there is no clear division between them and the outer coat hairs because the coat contains intermediate hairs so that separation is difficult and the qualities of camel hair vary considerably in softness because of this.
Used mainly for high quality overcoats, scarves and travelling rugs. The fine soft qualities are very expensive. Often mixed with sheep's wool to reduce cost.
CAMELEON fabrics A French term for changeable colour in fabric A French term for changeable colour in fabric. Produced by shooting three picks of different colour through each shed in weaving.
CAMELOT fabrics An imitation camlet fabric An imitation camlet fabric produced in cotton and wool.
CAMERA fabrics A French term for coarse, loosely woven linen fabric A French term for coarse, loosely woven linen fabric which is either unbleached or dyed yellow.
CAMLET fabrics A fine, lustrous plain-weave fabric made of silk, hair, or wool fibres A fine, lustrous plain-weave fabric made of silk, hair, or wool fibres and in a variety of qualities for suitings and furnishings.
CAMPBELL TWILL fabrics Also called Mayo twill. Also called Mayo twill. A weave used extensively in the finer woollen and worsted trade.
CAMPING TENTAGE garments, made-ups, assemblies Any portable temporary shelter or structure designed to protect persons from the elements Any portable temporary shelter or structure designed to protect persons from the elements, all or a portion of the covering of which is made of fabric or other pliable materials.
CANDLEWICK fabrics Thick tufted pile fabric imitating an early handicraft when the wicks of candles really were used for decoration. Thick tufted pile fabric imitating an early handicraft when the wicks of candles really were used for decoration. The extra yarns, which are usually of 100 % cotton, coarse, folded yarns having outstanding capillary properties, are added to a loosely woven fabric of muslin construction and the thicker yarn is threaded through the backing in straight lines or patterns, leaving spaces between. The loops are then cut leaving thick tufts firmly wedged in the backing. A warm, cuddly, absorbent fabric, usually with cotton backing and tufting, though viscose may be added. Does not crease but robes can lose shape. Used for bedspreads, dressing gowns, and bathrobes
CANDY STRIPES fabrics Bands or stripes of colour woven-in or printed on fabrics. Bands or stripes of colour woven-in or printed on fabrics. Colours simulate those of peppermint candy.
CANNAGE defects Local differences in light reflection caused by variations in curvature of warp crimp. Local differences in light reflection caused by variations in curvature of warp crimp. This occurs in plain weave fabrics made with a continuous filament warp and may arise if the warp is too stiffly sized or if the warp tension during weaving is too low.
CANNELLE REPP fabrics A silk repp fabric made with two warps. A silk repp fabric made with two warps. A single warp forms the ground weave while a two-fold yarn floats over eight picks to create a rib effect
CANNETILLE fabrics A warp-rib cotton fabric used for drapes and furnishings. It is woven with alternate ends under very low and very high tensions. A warp-rib cotton fabric used for drapes and furnishings. It is woven with alternate ends under very low and very high tensions.
CANTALA fibers, filaments, yarns A fibre obtained from the leaf of the cantala plant agave cantala. A fibre obtained from the leaf of the cantala plant agave cantala.
CANTON CRÊPE fabrics Crêpe fabric in which weft yarns produce a pebbly surface. Crêpe fabric in which weft yarns produce a pebbly surface. Originally a silk from Canton, but now often viscose or polyester. It is durable, due to the high twist yarn, and washes easily. Often in white or may be piece-dyed. Used for blouses, dresses
CANTON FLANNEL fabrics Medium to heavy cotton cloth in twill weave with a soft weft yarn and a soft flannel-type nap on one or both sides Medium to heavy cotton cloth in twill weave with a soft weft yarn and a soft flannel-type nap on one or both sides. Soft and absorbent; may be used unbleached or dyed. Washes well; very inflammable. Used for lining gardening gloves, driving gloves and some baby clothes; sometimes used as a warm lining for other clothes.
CANVAS fabrics Plain fabric woven from ply yarn which is similar to duck cloth. Plain fabric woven from ply yarn which is similar to duck cloth. Rugged, heavy, stiff fabric, made of unbleached coarse cotton or linen yarn, often woven in stripes. Used for shoes, sails, awnings, rucksacks, tents, etc. Can also be open-weave, in various weights, and in this form it is used for embroidery.
CANVAS INTERFACINGS fabrics Made in various fibres and weights, this is generally heavier than other types of interfacing. Made in various fibres and weights, this is generally heavier than other types of interfacing. May be sew-in or iron-in types. Is durable and very malleable under a hot iron with moisture. Most types can be easily shaped to the body and give excellent structure to a tailored garment. Used in coats and jackets. See Sew-in woven interfacings and Iron-on canvas interfacings.
CANVAS MAKING processes, operations The sewing together of all the pieces, which form the interlining of a jacket or coa The sewing together of all the pieces, which form the interlining of a jacket or coat either by hand or machine
CAP SPINNING processes, operations A spinning system in which the spindle supports a stationary cap A spinning system in which the spindle supports a stationary cap, the lower edge of which guides the yarn onto the revolving spinning package, which is traversed.
CAPE LEATHER fabrics Originally this type of leather came from sheep found around Cape of Good Hope, but now comes mainly from the Russian States. Originally this type of leather came from sheep found around Cape of Good Hope, but now comes mainly from the Russian States. Firm and hardwearing, and is usually given a glacé or shiny finish. Used mainly for gloves.
CAPE WOOLS fibers, filaments, yarns General name for wool obtained from areas in and around South Africa. General name for wool obtained from areas in and around South Africa. High quality fleece having excellent working properties during manipulation. Used in heavier woollen materials.
CAPROLACTAM general A polymer which is the source of some polyamide fibres. A polymer which is the source of some polyamide fibres.
CARACUL CLOTH fabrics Also called Karakul cloth. Also called Karakul cloth. Heavy woollen fabric, woven to resemble fabrics made from Persian lamb's wool. Used for women's and children's coats, capes, muffs, etc.
CARBINE NEEDLE apparatus, equipage, tools See under Needle See under Needle
CARBON FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns A manufactured fibre containing at least 90 % of carbon obtained by controlled pyrolysis of appropriate fibres. A manufactured fibre containing at least 90 % of carbon obtained by controlled pyrolysis of appropriate fibres. . They are made by heating precursor filaments, usually of rayon or acrylic to appropriate temperatures that convert the substance to primary pure carbon. Carbon fibres are black, smooth-surfaced, not flammable, of high strength, and very good stiffness-to-weight ratio. Special grades of carbon fibre are used for protective clothing fabrics.
CARBON-ARC LAMP apparatus, equipage, tools See Fade-o-Meter. See Fade-o-Meter.
CARBONISED & NEUTRALISED WOOL fibers, filaments, yarns A term descriptive of scoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities A term descriptive of scoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities by treating with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying and baking, crushing, and dusting out the embrittled cellulosic matter followed by neutralisation of the acidified wool.
CARBONISING processes, operations A chemical process by which cellulosic matter is removed from a mixture with animal fibres A chemical process by which cellulosic matter is removed from a mixture with animal fibres. The cellulose is degraded by treatment with acid, and made into an easily friable condition and then removed.
CARBOXYMETHYLATED COTTON fibers, filaments, yarns Chemical treatments of cotton fibre, yarn or fabric Chemical treatments of cotton fibre, yarn or fabric first with monochloroacetic acid, and second with strong sodium hydroxide solution to provide a stiff and crease-resistant effect and to increase absorbency
CARD CLOTHING apparatus, equipage, tools Material comprising a base structure and wires, pins, or spikes protruding from one face Material comprising a base structure and wires, pins, or spikes protruding from one face. Used on carding machines
CARD CUTTING processes, operations The process of punching holes in jacquard or dobby cards The process of punching holes in jacquard or dobby cards according to specified designs.
CARD SLIVER fibers, filaments, yarns A rope-like strand of fibres A rope-like strand of fibres about 3/4 inch to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) in diameter; the form in which fibres emerge from the carding machine
CARD WASTE general Short fluffy waste thrown out of the carding machine Short fluffy waste thrown out of the carding machine
CARD WEB fibers, filaments, yarns See under Web See under Web
CARDED SILK fabrics A waste silk, usually obtained from imperfect cocoons A waste silk, usually obtained from imperfect cocoons, which is carded. Used in the manufacture of spun silk yarn.
CARDED WOOL fibers, filaments, yarns Scoured wool which has been processed through a carding machine Scoured wool which has been processed through a carding machine
CARDED YARN fibers, filaments, yarns Yarn made from fibres that have been carded but not combed Yarn made from fibres that have been carded but not combed in the manufacturing process.
CARDING processes, operations The process of untangling and partially straightening fibres The process of untangling and partially straightening fibres, by passing them between two closely spaced surfaces moving at different speeds, at least one of which is clothed with sharp points, thus converting a tangled mass into a filmy web.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS garments, made-ups, assemblies A series of directions describing which care practices should refurbish a product without adverse effects A series of directions describing which care practices should refurbish a product without adverse effects and warnings for those care practices expected to have a harmful effect.
CARE LABEL, PERMANENT garments, made-ups, assemblies A care label that remains legible A care label that remains legible and attached to a textile product throughout its useful life.
CARE LABELLING SYMBOLS garments, made-ups, assemblies A system of graphic symbols, intended for use in the permanent marking of textile articles, providing information essential for their proper care A system of graphic symbols, intended for use in the permanent marking of textile articles, providing information essential for their proper care.
Basic Symbols:
WASHING PROCESS: a washtub
CHLORINE-BASED BLEACHING PROCESS:a triangle
IRONING PROCESS:A hand iron shape
DRY-CLEANING PROCESS:A circle
TUMBLE DRYING: Tumble drying in a tumbler after a washing process:A square with a circle inscribed
Additional Symbols:
TREATMENT NOT PERMITTED:A St. Andrew's cross, superimposed on any of the basic symbol, means that the treatment represented by that symbol shall not be used
MILD TREATMENT:A bar, under the washtub or circle means that the treatment should be milder than that indicated by the same symbol without a bar.
VERY MILD TREATMENT:A broken bar, under the washtub describes a very mild washing process at 40° C.
WASHING: The washtub symbolises the domestic washing treatment (by hand or machine). It is used to convey information regarding the maximum washing temperature and the maximum washing process severity
CARE LABELS garments, made-ups, assemblies A label that gives directions for refurbishing a product A label that gives directions for refurbishing a product
CARE PROCEDURE garments, made-ups, assemblies A process by which products or specimens may be treated for soil removal A process by which products or specimens may be treated for soil removal and aesthetic improvement.
CAREER APPAREL garments, made-ups, assemblies Garments, the styling and performance of which are designed for various end uses Garments, the styling and performance of which are designed for various end uses so as to be suitable for on-the-job wear in a variety of businesses and professions. See also Dress career apparel, Vocational career apparel
CARLONIZED processes, operations A process of impregnating yarns with a protective shield that becomes an integral part of the fabric. A process of impregnating yarns with a protective shield that becomes an integral part of the fabric. This process makes the fabric washable, waterproof, stain resistant, abrasion resistant, and anti-static. The treated fabrics are used for wall coverings, office furnishings, etc.
CAROA fibers, filaments, yarns Also called Craua, Croa, Coroa Also called Craua, Croa, Coroa. A fibre from the leaf of the plant neoglazovia variegata
CARPET garments, made-ups, assemblies A floor covering A floor covering having a textile use-surface formed from yarns or fibres projecting from a backing.
CARPET PILE BRUSH apparatus, equipage, tools A hand operated brush A hand operated brush having long, semi-rigid bristles intended specifically for erecting the pile of small areas of carpet
CARPET SQUARE garments, made-ups, assemblies A carpet rectangular form, A carpet rectangular form, with or without a border, at least 1.83 m at the shortest dimension and normally loosely laid.
CARPET TILE garments, made-ups, assemblies A textile floor covering A textile floor covering of predetermined shape, with backcoating of bitumen, glass fibre, or PVC. It is used in a modular mode.
CARPET WOOL fibers, filaments, yarns See under Wool See under Wool
CARRIAGE LACE fabrics Also called Coach lace Also called Coach lace. A woven narrow fabric on the face of which is an uncut pile design; generally incorporating one weft, but two or three wefts are sometimes used for further ornamental effects. Used for embellishment of the upholstery of carriages and other vehicles.
CARRICKMACROSS fabrics Old Irish traditional type of lace Old Irish traditional type of lace made with heavy yarns in an almost crochet type of work, characterised by many loops.
CARRIER ³ A plasticising agent A plasticising agent that aids the penetration of the dye onto or into non-water-absorbing man-made fibres
CARRIER YARN fibers, filaments, yarns A yarn that is used to support another yarn A yarn that is used to support another yarn in weaving, knitting, and sometimes lace making, and is then dissolved out of the product in finishing
CARROTI ³ The active reagent used for carroting The active reagent used for carroting
CARROTING processes, operations The modification of the tips of rabbit-fur fibre The modification of the tips of rabbit-fur fibre by chemical treatment to improve their felting capacity.
CARVED PILE garments, made-ups, assemblies See under Pile, in carpet See under Pile, in carpet
CASABLANCAS processes, operations The first long draft spinning system The first long draft spinning system, which employs two aprons for guiding the roving sliver through the process of drafting and attenuation
CASE apparatus, equipage, tools A container holding a number of textile packages A container holding a number of textile packages; a shipping unit, usually carton, box, bale, or other.
CASE CORD fibers, filaments, yarns A soft and pliable cord A soft and pliable cord consisting of two or more components twisted together, each component being made of a core which is helically covered at an acute angle by multiple ends of continuous filament yarns.
CASEIN FIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns Casein is obtained by the acid treatment of skimmed milk Casein is obtained by the acid treatment of skimmed milk; casein fibres can be made from this. The filaments have a natural white colour and are smooth-surfaced, with faint striations. Casein and wool blends are used for hand- and machine-knitting yarns, the whiteness of casein lending itself to the production of pastel shades.
CASEMENT CLOTH fabrics This fabric is for casements or curtains. This fabric is for casements or curtains. Usually cotton, it is plain-weave fabric in white or cream, with the weft often predominating on the surface. Soft and drapes well. The term is now generally used to cover a wide variety of simple weave plain curtaining, made from practically any fibre and in any colour, and in various weights. Not particularly hardwearing so it is not used for other furnishings.
CASHA fabrics Woven from wool with some Cashmere goat's wool. Woven from wool with some Cashmere goat's wool. Similar to flannel in appearance, but the Cashmere adds softness. Used for overcoats for adults and children.
CASHGORA fibers, filaments, yarns Hair from the downy undercoat of the cashgora (cross breed of angora and cashmere) goat. Hair from the downy undercoat of the cashgora (cross breed of angora and cashmere) goat. Hair is fine and has low to medium lustre
CASHMERE fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics The undercoat hair of the cashmere goat (capra hircus laniger) in northern part of India and other parts of Asia. The undercoat hair of the cashmere goat (capra hircus laniger) in northern part of India and other parts of Asia. Cashmere is beautifully soft, silky and lustrous with a smooth slightly slippery luxurious handle and it is used in high quality knitwear, dress-goods, coatings and suitings. Fabrics of 100 % cashmere are really very expensive, so that mixtures with wool are quite common. The addition of wool detracts from the softness according to amount, but improves durability. The characteristic pale brown colour of some types of cashmere has led to imitation of cashmere, by dyeing soft botany wool to this colour, but cannot be labeled as such.
CASING garments, made-ups, assemblies, general See under Tyre textiles 1. In a garment, a fabric tunnel through which elastic, cord, tape ribbon, etc., can be threaded.
2. See under Tyre textiles
CASSIMER fabrics A closely woven 2/2 twill fabric A closely woven 2/2 twill fabric with worsted warp and woollen weft, and having a closely cut, smooth face
CAST BLOCK apparatus, equipage, tools Print-blocks made of 'type metal' Print-blocks made of 'type metal'. Many casts of small repeats are made and riveted on to a hardwood base to form a large block. Sometimes called 'stereo block'. See also Stereo.
CASTING OFF processes, operations Creation of a sealed edge to the last course of a piece of knitting Creation of a sealed edge to the last course of a piece of knitting, by chaining a separate thread through each of the loops of the last course. This was normally regarded as a hand technique, but now automatic casting off has been achieved on many models of flat knitting machines.
CASTING OUT processes, operations A term used in weaving A term used in weaving to indicate that some healds of a jacquard machine, or some healds on certain heald shafts, are not used.
CASTLE fibers, filaments, yarns A white, raw silk of Chinese origin. A white, raw silk of Chinese origin.
CAT EYE defects See under Pinhole See under Pinhole
CATALYST IN DEFERRED CURE ³ A chemical added to the padding solution A chemical added to the padding solution that helps to achieve cross-linking. See Deferred cure.
CATCH garments, made-ups, assemblies In garments, an underlap of material In garments, an underlap of material providing a backing to an opening to take buttons or a zip tape for fastening, e.g. fly-catch, button-catch.
CATCH CORD accessories A heavy thread or wire temporarily woven near the selvedge of the fabric. A heavy thread or wire temporarily woven near the selvedge of the fabric. It may catch extra filling yarns, which should not weave in the selvedge and later cut-off, or it sometimes helps to form the selvedge, i.e. the picot edge, loop
CATCH-STITCH seams, stitches A cross-stitch made backwards A cross-stitch made backwards; used if the cloth is too bulky to be turned down twice.
CATENARY LENGTH general The difference between the length of the shortest and the longest component of a plied yarn The difference between the length of the shortest and the longest component of a plied yarn or cabled cord after twisting
CATERPILLAR defects A term for a defect in yarn caused by a break in part of the yarn. A term for a defect in yarn caused by a break in part of the yarn. The broken part becomes pushed back in working and curls around the unbroken part in the shape of a caterpillar.
CATIONIC DYES ³ The dyes those dissociate in an acidified, aqueous solution The dyes those dissociate in an acidified, aqueous solution to give a positively charged coloured ion. Usually used on acrylic and some polyester fibres. See also Basic dyes
CAULIFLOWER RUCHE accessories See under Ruche. See under Ruche.
CAUSTIC SODA ³ A term commonly used for sodium hydroxide A term commonly used for sodium hydroxide
CAUSTIC SODA CRÊPE processes, operations A crêpe effect produced by the shrinking action of caustic soda applied to cotton goods A crêpe effect produced by the shrinking action of caustic soda applied to cotton goods. A resist may be applied first to the parts, which are to be left untreated, or the caustic soda may be printed directly on the cloth. The treated areas shrink, causing the untreated areas to pucker or crinkle. The pattern is often in the form of stripes. It may also be a design of dots, all-over effects, etc.
CAUSTICIZING processes, operations Brief treatment of celllulosic fabrics with caustic soda solution Brief treatment of celllulosic fabrics with caustic soda solution at room temperature without tension to improve the colour yield in printing and dyeing, particularly with reactive dyes.
CAV general See Critical application value See Critical application value
CAVALRY TWILL fabrics Rugged, very strong, firmly woven, smooth surfaced twill fabric Rugged, very strong, firmly woven, smooth surfaced twill fabric with a clean, steep, prominent double twill effect produced by a special twill weave and finely set warp. Traditionally, a fine wool medium-weight worsted fabric, or combination of worsted warp and woollen weft for hardwearing clothes such as riding breeches. Also used for men's trousers, raincoats and other clothing purposes. Now also made from cotton or viscose for sportswear, because the traditional form of this fabric is really expensive; but whatever the fibre, the cloth is tough and hardwearing.
A firm warp-faced fabric in which the weave gives steep twill lines separated by pronounced grooves formed by the weft.
CE general See Recoverable elongation. See Recoverable elongation.
CEIBA fibers, filaments, yarns See under Cotton trees. See under Cotton trees.
CELAFIBRE fibers, filaments, yarns Cellulose acetate fibre made in cut staple form Cellulose acetate fibre made in cut staple form. Used for blending with other fibres to make medium-weight fabrics, blankets, etc. When mixed with other fibres in woven fabrics, it may have a reduced tendency to creasing.
CELLOPHANE fibers, filaments, yarns A genetic term for regenerated cellulose film or sheets produced by the viscose process A genetic term for regenerated cellulose film or sheets produced by the viscose process. The film is thin, smooth, transparent, and lustrous and may dyed in many colours. It is flexible, insulative, odour proof, greaseproof and moisture proof. It is used primarily in packaging, but may be combined with textile materials in the form of slit cellulose film.
CELLULAR FABRIC fabrics A fabric constructed so as to have a close and orderly distribution of hollows or holes. A fabric constructed so as to have a close and orderly distribution of hollows or holes. In woven fabric, this can be achieved by honeycomb weave, leno weave, or perforated weave.
CELLULASE ³ See under Enzymes See under Enzymes
CELLULOSE ³ The basic substance which is contained in all vegetable fibres and certain man-made fibres. The basic substance which is contained in all vegetable fibres and certain man-made fibres. It is a carbohydrate and constitutes the major part of all plant life. It is found in cotton, linen, jute, hemp, all of bast, leaf, and stem fibres and in viscose and cuprammonium rayon. In the form of cellulose acetate it comprises acetate fibre. In rayon it is found in regenerated form.
CELLULOSE ACETATE fibers, filaments, yarns, fabrics Man-made fibre produced from a chemical derivative of cellulose; cellulose acetate 1. YARN. Man-made fibre produced from a chemical derivative of cellulose; cellulose acetate. It is fundamentally different in its chemical structure from the rayons and natural fibres, except that both have cellulose as common. It is thermoplastic, which actually melts at 230° C, but may soften and can be damaged even at slightly lower temperatures. Relatively low moisture absorption and dry rapidly. It is acknowledged to be a better artificial silk than viscose, at the same time being less ex-pensive.
2. FABRIC. Fabric is similar in superficial appearance to viscose fabric but it not quite as strong, nor quite as resistant to abrasion. It has more resilience and has a pleasing more silk like handle. Needs no chemical crease-resistance. Drapes beautifully. It is not readily flammable; exposed to a naked flame it melts and drips, as it burns Its chemical properties differ from viscose in that it is sensitive to certain solvents, notably acetone which dissolves it very quickly. Dye affinity is completely dif-ferent from that of viscose and cotton; disperse dyes have to be used.
It is not suitable for clothing and other uses which demand quick absorbency. However, used for women's dresswear, socks, ties, pyjamas, bathing suits, rainwear and umbrellas. Does not conduct heat readily, garments are cool in summer and warm in winter.
CELLULOSE DIACETATE general Term is sometimes used loosely to describe acetone-soluble cellulose acetate. Term is sometimes used loosely to describe acetone-soluble cellulose acetate. (Strictly speaking, it is an ester of cellulose and acetic acid containing 48.8 % by mass of combined acetic acid. This, however, is not a commercial textile product).
CELLULOSE ETHERS ³ A finish used on yarn and fabric, as substitute for starch A finish used on yarn and fabric, as substitute for starch. General name for methylcellulose, carboxy methylcellulose and similar compounds
CELLULOSE FIBRES fibers, filaments, yarns Fibres composed of cellulose Fibres composed of cellulose either from natural sources or regenerated by man-made operations, e.g. cotton, flax, rayon, jute.
CELLULOSE TRIACETATE fibers, filaments, yarns In most respects similar to cellulose acetate In most respects similar to cellulose acetate but it has two important differences, which justify its use. Firstly, although it is thermoplastic it is more resistant to heat than acetate, melting at approximately 300° C. Secondly it can be subjected to heat-setting like a synthetic fibre by sub-jecting it to a heat of about 195° C. When it has been heat-set its absorbency is very low and it exhibits drip-dry properties like synthetic fibres. It is used mainly for pleated fabrics.
CELTIC TWILL fabrics A term used sometimes for twilled basket weave A term used sometimes for twilled basket weave
CENTRE BACK WAIST LENGTH garments, made-ups, assemblies Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system
CENTRE FRONT WAIST LENGTH garments, made-ups, assemblies Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system
CENTRE GIMP fabrics Lace. A leavers-lace construction in which the filling threads, called gimps, lie between the front and back warp threads Lace. A leavers-lace construction in which the filling threads, called gimps, lie between the front and back warp threads. The ground net is made by the interaction of two warp threads with each bobbin thread. The objects are filled by traversing gimp threads, according to the requirements of the patttern. Thick threads may be used for outlining the objects
CENTRE LOOP defects See Kink-in. See Kink-in.
CENTRE SELVEDGE fabrics Double width cloth, woven on single width looms, with a split selvedge in the centre of the cloth Double width cloth, woven on single width looms, with a split selvedge in the centre of the cloth. The split is obtained by leaving two or more threads in the centre of the selvedge and cutting the cloth where the threads are missing
CENTRE SLOT APPLICATION accessories A method of zipper application A method of zipper application, in which the zipper is concealed beneath two fabric flaps and there are two visible rows of stitching on the right side of the garment an equal distance from the seamline on either side. Centre slot applications are commonly used for centre back openings in skirts and dresses
CENTRE-CLOSED SHEDDING processes, operations See under Closed shedding. See under Closed shedding.
CENTRE-STITCHING DOUBLE CLOTH fabrics See under Double cloth See under Double cloth
CENTRIFUGAL HYDROEXTRACTION processes, operations Removal of water by centrifugal force from wet textiles Removal of water by centrifugal force from wet textiles contained in a perforated rotor or basket.
CENTRIFUGAL SPINNING processes, operations A method of spinning 1. A method of spinning in which the yarn passes down a central guide tube and is then collected by centrifugal force on the inner surface of a rotating cylinder container. See also Box spinning.
2. In man-made fibre production, a method of fibre formation in which a molten or dissolved poly-mer is thrown centrifugally in fibre form from the edge of a rapidly rotating surface
CENTRING MARK defects See Clip mark. See Clip mark.
CERAMIC FIBRES fibers, filaments, yarns See Silica fibres See Silica fibres
CERIFIL processes, operations Trade name of a spinning system Trade name of a spinning system, in which the yarn is wound onto the spinning tube via a 'winder'. The winder, which is rotated by the yarn, replaces the ring and traveller, which are used in ring spinning and confines the yarn balloon.
CERVICALE TO BUST POINT garments, made-ups, assemblies Garment-related term Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system
CERVICALE TO WRIST garments, made-ups, assemblies Garment-related term. Garment-related term. See under Garment sizing system
CEYLON fabrics A coloured woven fabric for blouses and shirtings A coloured woven fabric for blouses and shirtings made from a cotton warp and cotton-wool weft.
CEYLONETTE fabrics An imitation of Ceylon fabric An imitation of Ceylon fabric made entirely from cotton
CHAFE MARK defects See Abrasion mark. See Abrasion mark.
CHAFER FABRIC fabrics See under Tyre textiles. See under Tyre textiles.
CHAFF defects A component of trash in cotton A component of trash in cotton in the form of a heterogeneous assortment of vegetable fragments, most of them being small pieces of leaf, leaf bract and stalk.
CHAIN fabrics, accessories In zippers, the assemblage formed by interlocking several elements of two stringers. 1. A very rarely used alternative name for the warp.
2. In zippers, the assemblage formed by interlocking several elements of two stringers.
CHAIN DYEING processes, operations Yarn or fabric is tied end-to-end, into an endless rope form Yarn o