| C. I. GENERIC NAME |
³ |
See Colour Index
generic name. |
See Colour Index
generic name. |
| C.I. CONSTITUTION
NUMBER |
³ |
See Colour Index
constitution number. |
See Colour Index
constitution number. |
| C.I.GENERIC NAME |
³ |
C.I. generic name
is a classification name, which when allocated to a commercial
preparation allows that preparation to be uniquely identified
within any Colour Index Application class |
The allocation
of Colur Index generic names to commercial colorants is
done by the Colour Index Editorial Board. C.I. generic
name is a classification name, which when allocated to
a commercial preparation allows that preparation to be
uniquely identified within any Colour Index Application
class. This enables the particular commercial preparation
to be classified along with other preparation, whose essential
colorant results form a single chemical reaction, or a
series of reactions. Products obtained by physical admixture
of essential colorants are excluded. The publishers of
Colour Index International cautions the users that a listing
therein of a commercial preparation is no guarantee of
its acceptability for manufacturer or use in those countries
having such legislation.
The dyestuffs are first classified according to usage.
Further they are subdivided depending on the hue (colour)
of the dye. Thus, dyestuffs are grouped as acid, basic,
direct, disperse, vat dyes, etc., and in each group they
are subdivided as yellow, orange, red, violet, blue, green,
brown and black. Dyestuffs of each colour from each usage
class are given consecutive numbers.
When different dyestuff manufacturers produce a dyestuff
of a particular colour in a given usage class and having
the same known structure (hence a C.I. Constitution Number
is assigned to the dyestuff), all these commercial dyes
are given the same generic name. On the other hand, if,
a num-ber of dyes of the same hue and tone (after dyeing
on fibres) but the structure is not known in pub-lished
literature, these are allocated five different C.I. generic
names. These five different names are given to the five
dyes of the respective manufacturers, even if the dye
structure is the same. As long as the structure is not
disclosed in the published literature, the dyestuffs have
different C.I. generic names. When a research publication
from a research organisation or from a university determines
the structure of a series of commercial dyestuffs, by
analytical and synthetic routes, and the results appear
in a reputed journal, these are taken note of and they
are assigned C.I. Constitution numbers depending on the
chromophores present in them. This information is periodically
published as Sup-plements to Colour Index International
and at an appropriate time incorporated in the revised
edi-tion of Colour Index International.
Colorants listed under a C.I. generic name whose serial
number contains a colon differ slightly from those listed
under the parent CI generic name. This slight difference
is usually chemical, but may be physical in the case of
certain pigments. See also Colour Index International
and C.I. constitution number. |
| CABANA CLOTH |
fabrics |
Brightly coloured
fabric |
Brightly coloured
fabric used for beach and resort wear |
| CABINET DRY |
processes, operations |
A method of drying
or deodorizing. |
A method of drying
or deodorizing. Hot air is circulated around the immovable
object being dried. Temperatures range upto 160ºF (71.2ºC).
Drying time may be long. |
| CABLE CORD |
accessories |
A cord consisting
of three case cords that have been over-twisted and are
then twisted together in the reverse direction. |
A cord consisting
of three case cords that have been over-twisted and are
then twisted together in the reverse direction. The smaller
sizes are often referred to as lacing cords and the larger
sizes, traditionally over 6 mm in diameter, as French
crêpe cord |
| CABLE KNIT |
seams, stitches |
Also called Cable
stitch. A stitch in knitting |
Also called Cable
stitch. A stitch in knitting that produces the appearance
of a heavy cord in a raised rope stripe; often found in
sweaters and sports hosiery. |
| CABLE LAID ROPE |
accessories |
See under Rope. |
See under Rope. |
| CABLE STITCH |
seams, stitches |
See Cable knit |
See Cable knit |
| CABLE TWIST |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The construction
of cabled yarn, cord, or rope |
The construction
of cabled yarn, cord, or rope in which each successive
twist is in the opposite direction to the preceding twist;
an S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction. |
| CABLED YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A yarn formed,
by twisting together two or more plied yarns. |
A yarn formed,
by twisting together two or more plied yarns. |
| CAD |
general |
Acronym for 'Computer
aided design'. |
Acronym for 'Computer
aided design'. Term used to describe the stages whereby
a computer is employed to assist in the designing of a
product. |
| CAKE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A package of continuous
filament yarn |
A package of continuous
filament yarn produced during the box spinning of viscose |
| CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE |
³ |
See under Chemic |
See under Chemic |
| CALENDER |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A machine used
in calendering process. |
A machine used
in calendering process. See Calendering |
| CALENDER BONDED |
fabrics |
Thermally-bonded
nonwoven fabric, in which calender rollers are used to
apply heat and pressure to a fibre web or batt |
Thermally-bonded
nonwoven fabric, in which calender rollers are used to
apply heat and pressure to a fibre web or batt, thus causing
bonding by the softening or melting of the heat-sensitive
material. Embossed calender rollers are in common use
for Point bonding |
| CALENDERING |
processes, operations |
A process by which
the fabric is made compact, flat and glazed |
A process by which
the fabric is made compact, flat and glazed. Usually the
fabric surface is not flat, particularly in ordinary quality
plain weave fabrics, because of the round shape of the
yarns and interlacings of warp and weft at right angles
to each other. In such a fabric it is seen that whilst
the fabric may be quite regular, it is not flat.
In calendering, the fabric is passed between the rollers
of a calender machine, in which heavy rollers rotate in
contact under pressure. The yarns are squashed into a
flattened elliptical shape; the intersections are made
to close-up between the yarns. The fabric surface becomes
flat and compact. The improved planeness of surface in
turn improves the glaze of the fabric. The calender machines
can have several rollers, some of which can be heated
and varied in speed, so that in addition to pressure a
polishing action can be exerted to increase lustre. |
| CALF GIRTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| CALF LEATHER |
fabrics |
Very soft, pliable
leather of top quality. |
Very soft, pliable
leather of top quality. Used as the basis of good patent
leather because it takes a high polish. Used for gloves
and shoes |
| CALIBRATION OF
YARN |
processes, operations |
The measurement
of the diameter of yarn |
The measurement
of the diameter of yarn |
| CALICO |
fabrics |
Generic term for
cheap plain cotton fabric heavier than muslin, often printed |
Generic term for
cheap plain cotton fabric heavier than muslin, often printed.
Fairly closely woven but varying in fineness and weight
depending on quality. One of the oldest basic cotton fabrics,
it is named after Calicut in India where it was first
produced. In the same grouping as percale, but coarser
and poorer quality. |
| CAM |
general |
Short for 'Computer
aided manufacture'. |
Short for 'Computer
aided manufacture'. Term used to describe processes of
making a product where the production machine is controlled
by a computer. |
| CAM LOCK SLIDER |
accessories |
In zippers, a slider
that incorporates a curled projection or projections |
In zippers, a slider
that incorporates a curled projection or projections on
the pull that extends through a window or windows to effect
a locking action by pressing against the interlocking
elements when the cam lock slider is in the locked position |
| CAMBRÉ |
fabrics |
A term for lightweight,
sheer, open weave linen fabric. |
A term for lightweight,
sheer, open weave linen fabric. |
| CAMBRIAN TWEED |
fabrics |
Rough woollen fabric
made in the uplands of Mid-Wales from the local hardy
sheep. |
Rough woollen fabric
made in the uplands of Mid-Wales from the local hardy
sheep. Plain weave, hopsack, or herringbone weaves are
the most usual and the yarns are either dyed with synthetic
dyes for better fastness or, more attractively, left in
their natural colours of white, grey and black (al-though
the sheep in the field look brown), and mixed together.
Used for hardwearing clothes such as men's suits, sports
jackets, Norfolk skirts and jackets. The coarser yarn
is made into rugs. |
| CAMBRIC |
fabrics |
A closely woven,
fine, firm, plain weave fabric, heavier than lawn, finished
with size to give a slight shine on the right side. |
A closely woven,
fine, firm, plain weave fabric, heavier than lawn, finished
with size to give a slight shine on the right side. Mainly
in plain colours. Usually cotton but can also be made
in linen. The yarns are not set closely together and the
finish is soft and smooth. Used for dresses, baby clothes,
children's clothes, nightwear, blouses, and handkerchiefs. |
| CAMEL CLOTH |
fabrics |
Term now used to
describe any camel-coloured coating fabric with a soft
feel and slight pile. |
Term now used to
describe any camel-coloured coating fabric with a soft
feel and slight pile. May be wool, wool and acrylic, or
other mixtures. They are cheap imitations of real camel
hair, but some are very good quality and expensive too.
Sometimes made as a reversible cloth with cream colour
on the other side. Fabric used for coatings, scarves,
and rugs. See also Camel hair. |
| CAMEL HAIR |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The fibre comes
from the Bactrian (two-humped) camel. |
The fibre comes
from the Bactrian (two-humped) camel. These are two-coat
animals and shed lumps of hair all the year round. The
fine undercoat hairs vary in length from 25 - 125 mm and
they are very soft like wool and gives warmth without
weight. The outer beard hairs are up to 375 mm and they
are very coarse and tough.
The fine hairs have its characteristic colours' reddish
fawn, light tan, to dark brown, and there is no clear
division between them and the outer coat hairs because
the coat contains intermediate hairs so that separation
is difficult and the qualities of camel hair vary considerably
in softness because of this.
Used mainly for high quality overcoats, scarves and travelling
rugs. The fine soft qualities are very expensive. Often
mixed with sheep's wool to reduce cost. |
| CAMELEON |
fabrics |
A French term for
changeable colour in fabric |
A French term for
changeable colour in fabric. Produced by shooting three
picks of different colour through each shed in weaving. |
| CAMELOT |
fabrics |
An imitation camlet
fabric |
An imitation camlet
fabric produced in cotton and wool. |
| CAMERA |
fabrics |
A French term for
coarse, loosely woven linen fabric |
A French term for
coarse, loosely woven linen fabric which is either unbleached
or dyed yellow. |
| CAMLET |
fabrics |
A fine, lustrous
plain-weave fabric made of silk, hair, or wool fibres |
A fine, lustrous
plain-weave fabric made of silk, hair, or wool fibres
and in a variety of qualities for suitings and furnishings. |
| CAMPBELL TWILL |
fabrics |
Also called Mayo
twill. |
Also called Mayo
twill. A weave used extensively in the finer woollen and
worsted trade. |
| CAMPING TENTAGE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Any portable temporary
shelter or structure designed to protect persons from
the elements |
Any portable temporary
shelter or structure designed to protect persons from
the elements, all or a portion of the covering of which
is made of fabric or other pliable materials. |
| CANDLEWICK |
fabrics |
Thick tufted pile
fabric imitating an early handicraft when the wicks of
candles really were used for decoration. |
Thick tufted pile
fabric imitating an early handicraft when the wicks of
candles really were used for decoration. The extra yarns,
which are usually of 100 % cotton, coarse, folded yarns
having outstanding capillary properties, are added to
a loosely woven fabric of muslin construction and the
thicker yarn is threaded through the backing in straight
lines or patterns, leaving spaces between. The loops are
then cut leaving thick tufts firmly wedged in the backing.
A warm, cuddly, absorbent fabric, usually with cotton
backing and tufting, though viscose may be added. Does
not crease but robes can lose shape. Used for bedspreads,
dressing gowns, and bathrobes |
| CANDY STRIPES |
fabrics |
Bands or stripes
of colour woven-in or printed on fabrics. |
Bands or stripes
of colour woven-in or printed on fabrics. Colours simulate
those of peppermint candy. |
| CANNAGE |
defects |
Local differences
in light reflection caused by variations in curvature
of warp crimp. |
Local differences
in light reflection caused by variations in curvature
of warp crimp. This occurs in plain weave fabrics made
with a continuous filament warp and may arise if the warp
is too stiffly sized or if the warp tension during weaving
is too low. |
| CANNELLE REPP |
fabrics |
A silk repp fabric
made with two warps. |
A silk repp fabric
made with two warps. A single warp forms the ground weave
while a two-fold yarn floats over eight picks to create
a rib effect |
| CANNETILLE |
fabrics |
A warp-rib cotton
fabric used for drapes and furnishings. It is woven with
alternate ends under very low and very high tensions. |
A warp-rib cotton
fabric used for drapes and furnishings. It is woven with
alternate ends under very low and very high tensions. |
| CANTALA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A fibre obtained
from the leaf of the cantala plant agave cantala. |
A fibre obtained
from the leaf of the cantala plant agave cantala. |
| CANTON CRÊPE |
fabrics |
Crêpe fabric
in which weft yarns produce a pebbly surface. |
Crêpe fabric
in which weft yarns produce a pebbly surface. Originally
a silk from Canton, but now often viscose or polyester.
It is durable, due to the high twist yarn, and washes
easily. Often in white or may be piece-dyed. Used for
blouses, dresses |
| CANTON FLANNEL |
fabrics |
Medium to heavy
cotton cloth in twill weave with a soft weft yarn and
a soft flannel-type nap on one or both sides |
Medium to heavy
cotton cloth in twill weave with a soft weft yarn and
a soft flannel-type nap on one or both sides. Soft and
absorbent; may be used unbleached or dyed. Washes well;
very inflammable. Used for lining gardening gloves, driving
gloves and some baby clothes; sometimes used as a warm
lining for other clothes. |
| CANVAS |
fabrics |
Plain fabric woven
from ply yarn which is similar to duck cloth. |
Plain fabric woven
from ply yarn which is similar to duck cloth. Rugged,
heavy, stiff fabric, made of unbleached coarse cotton
or linen yarn, often woven in stripes. Used for shoes,
sails, awnings, rucksacks, tents, etc. Can also be open-weave,
in various weights, and in this form it is used for embroidery. |
| CANVAS INTERFACINGS |
fabrics |
Made in various
fibres and weights, this is generally heavier than other
types of interfacing. |
Made in various
fibres and weights, this is generally heavier than other
types of interfacing. May be sew-in or iron-in types.
Is durable and very malleable under a hot iron with moisture.
Most types can be easily shaped to the body and give excellent
structure to a tailored garment. Used in coats and jackets.
See Sew-in woven interfacings and Iron-on canvas interfacings. |
| CANVAS MAKING |
processes, operations |
The sewing together
of all the pieces, which form the interlining of a jacket
or coa |
The sewing together
of all the pieces, which form the interlining of a jacket
or coat either by hand or machine |
| CAP SPINNING |
processes, operations |
A spinning system
in which the spindle supports a stationary cap |
A spinning system
in which the spindle supports a stationary cap, the lower
edge of which guides the yarn onto the revolving spinning
package, which is traversed. |
| CAPE LEATHER |
fabrics |
Originally this
type of leather came from sheep found around Cape of Good
Hope, but now comes mainly from the Russian States. |
Originally this
type of leather came from sheep found around Cape of Good
Hope, but now comes mainly from the Russian States. Firm
and hardwearing, and is usually given a glacé or
shiny finish. Used mainly for gloves. |
| CAPE WOOLS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
General name for
wool obtained from areas in and around South Africa. |
General name for
wool obtained from areas in and around South Africa. High
quality fleece having excellent working properties during
manipulation. Used in heavier woollen materials. |
| CAPROLACTAM |
general |
A polymer which
is the source of some polyamide fibres. |
A polymer which
is the source of some polyamide fibres. |
| CARACUL CLOTH |
fabrics |
Also called Karakul
cloth. |
Also called Karakul
cloth. Heavy woollen fabric, woven to resemble fabrics
made from Persian lamb's wool. Used for women's and children's
coats, capes, muffs, etc. |
| CARBINE NEEDLE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See under Needle |
See under Needle |
| CARBON FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A manufactured
fibre containing at least 90 % of carbon obtained by controlled
pyrolysis of appropriate fibres. |
A manufactured
fibre containing at least 90 % of carbon obtained by controlled
pyrolysis of appropriate fibres. . They are made by heating
precursor filaments, usually of rayon or acrylic to appropriate
temperatures that convert the substance to primary pure
carbon. Carbon fibres are black, smooth-surfaced, not
flammable, of high strength, and very good stiffness-to-weight
ratio. Special grades of carbon fibre are used for protective
clothing fabrics. |
| CARBON-ARC LAMP |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See Fade-o-Meter. |
See Fade-o-Meter. |
| CARBONISED &
NEUTRALISED WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A term descriptive
of scoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities |
A term descriptive
of scoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities
by treating with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying
and baking, crushing, and dusting out the embrittled cellulosic
matter followed by neutralisation of the acidified wool. |
| CARBONISING |
processes, operations |
A chemical process
by which cellulosic matter is removed from a mixture with
animal fibres |
A chemical process
by which cellulosic matter is removed from a mixture with
animal fibres. The cellulose is degraded by treatment
with acid, and made into an easily friable condition and
then removed. |
| CARBOXYMETHYLATED
COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Chemical treatments
of cotton fibre, yarn or fabric |
Chemical treatments
of cotton fibre, yarn or fabric first with monochloroacetic
acid, and second with strong sodium hydroxide solution
to provide a stiff and crease-resistant effect and to
increase absorbency |
| CARD CLOTHING |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Material comprising
a base structure and wires, pins, or spikes protruding
from one face |
Material comprising
a base structure and wires, pins, or spikes protruding
from one face. Used on carding machines |
| CARD CUTTING |
processes, operations |
The process of
punching holes in jacquard or dobby cards |
The process of
punching holes in jacquard or dobby cards according to
specified designs. |
| CARD SLIVER |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A rope-like strand
of fibres |
A rope-like strand
of fibres about 3/4 inch to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) in
diameter; the form in which fibres emerge from the carding
machine |
| CARD WASTE |
general |
Short fluffy waste
thrown out of the carding machine |
Short fluffy waste
thrown out of the carding machine |
| CARD WEB |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Web |
See under Web |
| CARDED SILK |
fabrics |
A waste silk, usually
obtained from imperfect cocoons |
A waste silk, usually
obtained from imperfect cocoons, which is carded. Used
in the manufacture of spun silk yarn. |
| CARDED WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Scoured wool which
has been processed through a carding machine |
Scoured wool which
has been processed through a carding machine |
| CARDED YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Yarn made from
fibres that have been carded but not combed |
Yarn made from
fibres that have been carded but not combed in the manufacturing
process. |
| CARDING |
processes, operations |
The process of
untangling and partially straightening fibres |
The process of
untangling and partially straightening fibres, by passing
them between two closely spaced surfaces moving at different
speeds, at least one of which is clothed with sharp points,
thus converting a tangled mass into a filmy web. |
| CARE INSTRUCTIONS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A series of directions
describing which care practices should refurbish a product
without adverse effects |
A series of directions
describing which care practices should refurbish a product
without adverse effects and warnings for those care practices
expected to have a harmful effect. |
| CARE LABEL, PERMANENT |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A care label that
remains legible |
A care label that
remains legible and attached to a textile product throughout
its useful life. |
| CARE LABELLING
SYMBOLS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A system of graphic
symbols, intended for use in the permanent marking of
textile articles, providing information essential for
their proper care |
A system of graphic
symbols, intended for use in the permanent marking of
textile articles, providing information essential for
their proper care.
Basic Symbols:
WASHING PROCESS: a washtub
CHLORINE-BASED BLEACHING PROCESS:a triangle
IRONING PROCESS:A hand iron shape
DRY-CLEANING PROCESS:A circle
TUMBLE DRYING: Tumble drying in a tumbler after a washing
process:A square with a circle inscribed
Additional Symbols:
TREATMENT NOT PERMITTED:A St. Andrew's cross, superimposed
on any of the basic symbol, means that the treatment represented
by that symbol shall not be used
MILD TREATMENT:A bar, under the washtub or circle means
that the treatment should be milder than that indicated
by the same symbol without a bar.
VERY MILD TREATMENT:A broken bar, under the washtub describes
a very mild washing process at 40° C.
WASHING: The washtub symbolises the domestic washing treatment
(by hand or machine). It is used to convey information
regarding the maximum washing temperature and the maximum
washing process severity |
| CARE LABELS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A label that gives
directions for refurbishing a product |
A label that gives
directions for refurbishing a product |
| CARE PROCEDURE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A process by which
products or specimens may be treated for soil removal |
A process by which
products or specimens may be treated for soil removal
and aesthetic improvement. |
| CAREER APPAREL |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garments, the styling
and performance of which are designed for various end
uses |
Garments, the styling
and performance of which are designed for various end
uses so as to be suitable for on-the-job wear in a variety
of businesses and professions. See also Dress career apparel,
Vocational career apparel |
| CARLONIZED |
processes, operations |
A process of impregnating
yarns with a protective shield that becomes an integral
part of the fabric. |
A process of impregnating
yarns with a protective shield that becomes an integral
part of the fabric. This process makes the fabric washable,
waterproof, stain resistant, abrasion resistant, and anti-static.
The treated fabrics are used for wall coverings, office
furnishings, etc. |
| CAROA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Also called Craua,
Croa, Coroa |
Also called Craua,
Croa, Coroa. A fibre from the leaf of the plant neoglazovia
variegata |
| CARPET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A floor covering |
A floor covering
having a textile use-surface formed from yarns or fibres
projecting from a backing. |
| CARPET PILE BRUSH |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A hand operated
brush |
A hand operated
brush having long, semi-rigid bristles intended specifically
for erecting the pile of small areas of carpet |
| CARPET SQUARE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A carpet rectangular
form, |
A carpet rectangular
form, with or without a border, at least 1.83 m at the
shortest dimension and normally loosely laid. |
| CARPET TILE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A textile floor
covering |
A textile floor
covering of predetermined shape, with backcoating of bitumen,
glass fibre, or PVC. It is used in a modular mode. |
| CARPET WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Wool |
See under Wool |
| CARRIAGE LACE |
fabrics |
Also called Coach
lace |
Also called Coach
lace. A woven narrow fabric on the face of which is an
uncut pile design; generally incorporating one weft, but
two or three wefts are sometimes used for further ornamental
effects. Used for embellishment of the upholstery of carriages
and other vehicles. |
| CARRICKMACROSS |
fabrics |
Old Irish traditional
type of lace |
Old Irish traditional
type of lace made with heavy yarns in an almost crochet
type of work, characterised by many loops. |
| CARRIER |
³ |
A plasticising
agent |
A plasticising
agent that aids the penetration of the dye onto or into
non-water-absorbing man-made fibres |
| CARRIER YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A yarn that is
used to support another yarn |
A yarn that is
used to support another yarn in weaving, knitting, and
sometimes lace making, and is then dissolved out of the
product in finishing |
| CARROTI |
³ |
The active reagent
used for carroting |
The active reagent
used for carroting |
| CARROTING |
processes, operations |
The modification
of the tips of rabbit-fur fibre |
The modification
of the tips of rabbit-fur fibre by chemical treatment
to improve their felting capacity. |
| CARVED PILE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
See under Pile,
in carpet |
See under Pile,
in carpet |
| CASABLANCAS |
processes, operations |
The first long
draft spinning system |
The first long
draft spinning system, which employs two aprons for guiding
the roving sliver through the process of drafting and
attenuation |
| CASE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A container holding
a number of textile packages |
A container holding
a number of textile packages; a shipping unit, usually
carton, box, bale, or other. |
| CASE CORD |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A soft and pliable
cord |
A soft and pliable
cord consisting of two or more components twisted together,
each component being made of a core which is helically
covered at an acute angle by multiple ends of continuous
filament yarns. |
| CASEIN FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Casein is obtained
by the acid treatment of skimmed milk |
Casein is obtained
by the acid treatment of skimmed milk; casein fibres can
be made from this. The filaments have a natural white
colour and are smooth-surfaced, with faint striations.
Casein and wool blends are used for hand- and machine-knitting
yarns, the whiteness of casein lending itself to the production
of pastel shades. |
| CASEMENT CLOTH |
fabrics |
This fabric is
for casements or curtains. |
This fabric is
for casements or curtains. Usually cotton, it is plain-weave
fabric in white or cream, with the weft often predominating
on the surface. Soft and drapes well. The term is now
generally used to cover a wide variety of simple weave
plain curtaining, made from practically any fibre and
in any colour, and in various weights. Not particularly
hardwearing so it is not used for other furnishings. |
| CASHA |
fabrics |
Woven from wool
with some Cashmere goat's wool. |
Woven from wool
with some Cashmere goat's wool. Similar to flannel in
appearance, but the Cashmere adds softness. Used for overcoats
for adults and children. |
| CASHGORA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Hair from the downy
undercoat of the cashgora (cross breed of angora and cashmere)
goat. |
Hair from the downy
undercoat of the cashgora (cross breed of angora and cashmere)
goat. Hair is fine and has low to medium lustre |
| CASHMERE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
The undercoat hair
of the cashmere goat (capra hircus laniger) in northern
part of India and other parts of Asia. |
The undercoat hair
of the cashmere goat (capra hircus laniger) in northern
part of India and other parts of Asia. Cashmere is beautifully
soft, silky and lustrous with a smooth slightly slippery
luxurious handle and it is used in high quality knitwear,
dress-goods, coatings and suitings. Fabrics of 100 % cashmere
are really very expensive, so that mixtures with wool
are quite common. The addition of wool detracts from the
softness according to amount, but improves durability.
The characteristic pale brown colour of some types of
cashmere has led to imitation of cashmere, by dyeing soft
botany wool to this colour, but cannot be labeled as such. |
| CASING |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies, general |
See under Tyre
textiles |
1. In a garment,
a fabric tunnel through which elastic, cord, tape ribbon,
etc., can be threaded.
2. See under Tyre textiles |
| CASSIMER |
fabrics |
A closely woven
2/2 twill fabric |
A closely woven
2/2 twill fabric with worsted warp and woollen weft, and
having a closely cut, smooth face |
| CAST BLOCK |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Print-blocks made
of 'type metal' |
Print-blocks made
of 'type metal'. Many casts of small repeats are made
and riveted on to a hardwood base to form a large block.
Sometimes called 'stereo block'. See also Stereo. |
| CASTING OFF |
processes, operations |
Creation of a sealed
edge to the last course of a piece of knitting |
Creation of a sealed
edge to the last course of a piece of knitting, by chaining
a separate thread through each of the loops of the last
course. This was normally regarded as a hand technique,
but now automatic casting off has been achieved on many
models of flat knitting machines. |
| CASTING OUT |
processes, operations |
A term used in
weaving |
A term used in
weaving to indicate that some healds of a jacquard machine,
or some healds on certain heald shafts, are not used. |
| CASTLE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A white, raw silk
of Chinese origin. |
A white, raw silk
of Chinese origin. |
| CAT EYE |
defects |
See under Pinhole |
See under Pinhole |
| CATALYST IN DEFERRED
CURE |
³ |
A chemical added
to the padding solution |
A chemical added
to the padding solution that helps to achieve cross-linking.
See Deferred cure. |
| CATCH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
In garments, an
underlap of material |
In garments, an
underlap of material providing a backing to an opening
to take buttons or a zip tape for fastening, e.g. fly-catch,
button-catch. |
| CATCH CORD |
accessories |
A heavy thread
or wire temporarily woven near the selvedge of the fabric. |
A heavy thread
or wire temporarily woven near the selvedge of the fabric.
It may catch extra filling yarns, which should not weave
in the selvedge and later cut-off, or it sometimes helps
to form the selvedge, i.e. the picot edge, loop |
| CATCH-STITCH |
seams, stitches |
A cross-stitch
made backwards |
A cross-stitch
made backwards; used if the cloth is too bulky to be turned
down twice. |
| CATENARY LENGTH |
general |
The difference
between the length of the shortest and the longest component
of a plied yarn |
The difference
between the length of the shortest and the longest component
of a plied yarn or cabled cord after twisting |
| CATERPILLAR |
defects |
A term for a defect
in yarn caused by a break in part of the yarn. |
A term for a defect
in yarn caused by a break in part of the yarn. The broken
part becomes pushed back in working and curls around the
unbroken part in the shape of a caterpillar. |
| CATIONIC DYES |
³ |
The dyes those
dissociate in an acidified, aqueous solution |
The dyes those
dissociate in an acidified, aqueous solution to give a
positively charged coloured ion. Usually used on acrylic
and some polyester fibres. See also Basic dyes |
| CAULIFLOWER RUCHE |
accessories |
See under Ruche. |
See under Ruche. |
| CAUSTIC SODA |
³ |
A term commonly
used for sodium hydroxide |
A term commonly
used for sodium hydroxide |
| CAUSTIC SODA CRÊPE |
processes, operations |
A crêpe effect
produced by the shrinking action of caustic soda applied
to cotton goods |
A crêpe effect
produced by the shrinking action of caustic soda applied
to cotton goods. A resist may be applied first to the
parts, which are to be left untreated, or the caustic
soda may be printed directly on the cloth. The treated
areas shrink, causing the untreated areas to pucker or
crinkle. The pattern is often in the form of stripes.
It may also be a design of dots, all-over effects, etc. |
| CAUSTICIZING |
processes, operations |
Brief treatment
of celllulosic fabrics with caustic soda solution |
Brief treatment
of celllulosic fabrics with caustic soda solution at room
temperature without tension to improve the colour yield
in printing and dyeing, particularly with reactive dyes. |
| CAV |
general |
See Critical application
value |
See Critical application
value |
| CAVALRY TWILL |
fabrics |
Rugged, very strong,
firmly woven, smooth surfaced twill fabric |
Rugged, very strong,
firmly woven, smooth surfaced twill fabric with a clean,
steep, prominent double twill effect produced by a special
twill weave and finely set warp. Traditionally, a fine
wool medium-weight worsted fabric, or combination of worsted
warp and woollen weft for hardwearing clothes such as
riding breeches. Also used for men's trousers, raincoats
and other clothing purposes. Now also made from cotton
or viscose for sportswear, because the traditional form
of this fabric is really expensive; but whatever the fibre,
the cloth is tough and hardwearing.
A firm warp-faced fabric in which the weave gives steep
twill lines separated by pronounced grooves formed by
the weft. |
| CE |
general |
See Recoverable
elongation. |
See Recoverable
elongation. |
| CEIBA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Cotton
trees. |
See under Cotton
trees. |
| CELAFIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Cellulose acetate
fibre made in cut staple form |
Cellulose acetate
fibre made in cut staple form. Used for blending with
other fibres to make medium-weight fabrics, blankets,
etc. When mixed with other fibres in woven fabrics, it
may have a reduced tendency to creasing. |
| CELLOPHANE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A genetic term
for regenerated cellulose film or sheets produced by the
viscose process |
A genetic term
for regenerated cellulose film or sheets produced by the
viscose process. The film is thin, smooth, transparent,
and lustrous and may dyed in many colours. It is flexible,
insulative, odour proof, greaseproof and moisture proof.
It is used primarily in packaging, but may be combined
with textile materials in the form of slit cellulose film. |
| CELLULAR FABRIC |
fabrics |
A fabric constructed
so as to have a close and orderly distribution of hollows
or holes. |
A fabric constructed
so as to have a close and orderly distribution of hollows
or holes. In woven fabric, this can be achieved by honeycomb
weave, leno weave, or perforated weave. |
| CELLULASE |
³ |
See under Enzymes |
See under Enzymes |
| CELLULOSE |
³ |
The basic substance
which is contained in all vegetable fibres and certain
man-made fibres. |
The basic substance
which is contained in all vegetable fibres and certain
man-made fibres. It is a carbohydrate and constitutes
the major part of all plant life. It is found in cotton,
linen, jute, hemp, all of bast, leaf, and stem fibres
and in viscose and cuprammonium rayon. In the form of
cellulose acetate it comprises acetate fibre. In rayon
it is found in regenerated form. |
| CELLULOSE ACETATE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
Man-made fibre
produced from a chemical derivative of cellulose; cellulose
acetate |
1. YARN. Man-made
fibre produced from a chemical derivative of cellulose;
cellulose acetate. It is fundamentally different in its
chemical structure from the rayons and natural fibres,
except that both have cellulose as common. It is thermoplastic,
which actually melts at 230° C, but may soften and can
be damaged even at slightly lower temperatures. Relatively
low moisture absorption and dry rapidly. It is acknowledged
to be a better artificial silk than viscose, at the same
time being less ex-pensive.
2. FABRIC. Fabric is similar in superficial appearance
to viscose fabric but it not quite as strong, nor quite
as resistant to abrasion. It has more resilience and has
a pleasing more silk like handle. Needs no chemical crease-resistance.
Drapes beautifully. It is not readily flammable; exposed
to a naked flame it melts and drips, as it burns Its chemical
properties differ from viscose in that it is sensitive
to certain solvents, notably acetone which dissolves it
very quickly. Dye affinity is completely dif-ferent from
that of viscose and cotton; disperse dyes have to be used.
It is not suitable for clothing and other uses which demand
quick absorbency. However, used for women's dresswear,
socks, ties, pyjamas, bathing suits, rainwear and umbrellas.
Does not conduct heat readily, garments are cool in summer
and warm in winter. |
| CELLULOSE DIACETATE |
general |
Term is sometimes
used loosely to describe acetone-soluble cellulose acetate. |
Term is sometimes
used loosely to describe acetone-soluble cellulose acetate.
(Strictly speaking, it is an ester of cellulose and acetic
acid containing 48.8 % by mass of combined acetic acid.
This, however, is not a commercial textile product). |
| CELLULOSE ETHERS |
³ |
A finish used on
yarn and fabric, as substitute for starch |
A finish used on
yarn and fabric, as substitute for starch. General name
for methylcellulose, carboxy methylcellulose and similar
compounds |
| CELLULOSE FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibres composed
of cellulose |
Fibres composed
of cellulose either from natural sources or regenerated
by man-made operations, e.g. cotton, flax, rayon, jute. |
| CELLULOSE TRIACETATE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
In most respects
similar to cellulose acetate |
In most respects
similar to cellulose acetate but it has two important
differences, which justify its use. Firstly, although
it is thermoplastic it is more resistant to heat than
acetate, melting at approximately 300° C. Secondly it
can be subjected to heat-setting like a synthetic fibre
by sub-jecting it to a heat of about 195° C. When it has
been heat-set its absorbency is very low and it exhibits
drip-dry properties like synthetic fibres. It is used
mainly for pleated fabrics. |
| CELTIC TWILL |
fabrics |
A term used sometimes
for twilled basket weave |
A term used sometimes
for twilled basket weave |
| CENTRE BACK WAIST
LENGTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system |
| CENTRE FRONT WAIST
LENGTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system |
| CENTRE GIMP |
fabrics |
Lace. A leavers-lace
construction in which the filling threads, called gimps,
lie between the front and back warp threads |
Lace. A leavers-lace
construction in which the filling threads, called gimps,
lie between the front and back warp threads. The ground
net is made by the interaction of two warp threads with
each bobbin thread. The objects are filled by traversing
gimp threads, according to the requirements of the patttern.
Thick threads may be used for outlining the objects |
| CENTRE LOOP |
defects |
See Kink-in. |
See Kink-in. |
| CENTRE SELVEDGE |
fabrics |
Double width cloth,
woven on single width looms, with a split selvedge in
the centre of the cloth |
Double width cloth,
woven on single width looms, with a split selvedge in
the centre of the cloth. The split is obtained by leaving
two or more threads in the centre of the selvedge and
cutting the cloth where the threads are missing |
| CENTRE SLOT APPLICATION |
accessories |
A method of zipper
application |
A method of zipper
application, in which the zipper is concealed beneath
two fabric flaps and there are two visible rows of stitching
on the right side of the garment an equal distance from
the seamline on either side. Centre slot applications
are commonly used for centre back openings in skirts and
dresses |
| CENTRE-CLOSED SHEDDING |
processes, operations |
See under Closed
shedding. |
See under Closed
shedding. |
| CENTRE-STITCHING
DOUBLE CLOTH |
fabrics |
See under Double
cloth |
See under Double
cloth |
| CENTRIFUGAL HYDROEXTRACTION |
processes, operations |
Removal of water
by centrifugal force from wet textiles |
Removal of water
by centrifugal force from wet textiles contained in a
perforated rotor or basket. |
| CENTRIFUGAL SPINNING |
processes, operations |
A method of spinning |
1. A method of
spinning in which the yarn passes down a central guide
tube and is then collected by centrifugal force on the
inner surface of a rotating cylinder container. See also
Box spinning.
2. In man-made fibre production, a method of fibre formation
in which a molten or dissolved poly-mer is thrown centrifugally
in fibre form from the edge of a rapidly rotating surface |
| CENTRING MARK |
defects |
See Clip mark. |
See Clip mark. |
| CERAMIC FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Silica fibres |
See Silica fibres |
| CERIFIL |
processes, operations |
Trade name of a
spinning system |
Trade name of a
spinning system, in which the yarn is wound onto the spinning
tube via a 'winder'. The winder, which is rotated by the
yarn, replaces the ring and traveller, which are used
in ring spinning and confines the yarn balloon. |
| CERVICALE TO BUST
POINT |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system |
| CERVICALE TO WRIST |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system |
| CEYLON |
fabrics |
A coloured woven
fabric for blouses and shirtings |
A coloured woven
fabric for blouses and shirtings made from a cotton warp
and cotton-wool weft. |
| CEYLONETTE |
fabrics |
An imitation of
Ceylon fabric |
An imitation of
Ceylon fabric made entirely from cotton |
| CHAFE MARK |
defects |
See Abrasion mark. |
See Abrasion mark. |
| CHAFER FABRIC |
fabrics |
See under Tyre
textiles. |
See under Tyre
textiles. |
| CHAFF |
defects |
A component of
trash in cotton |
A component of
trash in cotton in the form of a heterogeneous assortment
of vegetable fragments, most of them being small pieces
of leaf, leaf bract and stalk. |
| CHAIN |
fabrics, accessories |
In zippers, the
assemblage formed by interlocking several elements of
two stringers. |
1. A very rarely
used alternative name for the warp.
2. In zippers, the assemblage formed by interlocking several
elements of two stringers. |
| CHAIN DYEING |
processes, operations |
Yarn or fabric
is tied end-to-end, into an endless rope form |
Yarn o |
