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Textile Dictionary
 
     
 
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Word
Short description
Cambrian tweed Group of rough fabrics, made from the robust type sheep wools. The weave types most commonly used are plain, hopsack, or herringbone and the yarns used are dyed or more attractively, left in their natural colours of white, grey and black and mixed together. Used for hardwearing clothes such as men’s suits, sports jackets, and skirts. The coarser yarn is made into rugs.
Cambric Traditional lightweight, firm, closely woven, plain weave fabric, heavier than lawn, finished with size and/or calendered to give a slight shine on the right side. Usually made in cotton and linen and often in plain colours.  Originally made in Cambrai, France, hence the name. Popular constructions are: warp of 2/80s at 96 ends per inch and 2/80s to 2/120s at about 80 to 144 picks per inch. It can give a rather stiff, bright finished cloth and is used for summer dresses or with a soft finish for dress linings. A coarser construction in sized cotton is used for embroidery purposes.
Cambric finish Finishing process comprising singeing and calendaring operations, which imparts a firm, bright, finish on plain or back filled fabrics.
Camel In textile parlance, fawn or light yellowish brown colour.
Camel cloth Camel-coloured coating fabrichaving soft feel and small piles. Usually made from wool, wool and acrylic, or other mixtures. They are cheap imitations of real camel hair, but some are of very good quality and expensive too. Often made as a reversible cloth also with cream colour on the other side. Used for coatings, scarves, and rugs.
Camel hair A natural fibre of animal origin obtained from the hair of the camel, camelus bactrianus, a two-humped back species. The fine undercoat hair is has very wool-like softness and gives warmth without weight. The lengths of hairs vary in length from 25 to 125mm. The outer beard hairs, which are very coarse and tough, have lengths up to 375mm. The fine hairs are lightweight, lustrous and soft. The characteristic colours, range from a light tan to a brownish-black. Usually left its natural tones but can be dyed-usually navy and some red. It has quite a long nap and is warm. Better grades are expensive. Sometimes blended with wool to reduce the cost and increase the wear. All wool camel hair is not as lustrous and is spongy. Can have either a rich nap or a flat finish. Wears fairly well, particularly if blended. They withstand dampness and moisture. Used for suits, sweaters, some blankets and some very expensive oriental rugs. It is also used in fine overcoating and hosiery.
Camelot An imitation of camlet fabric, made from cotton and wool.
Camelot baracane A baracan fabric, which is woven by using warp ends that are heavier than weft picks.
Camera The term used to describe a rough, loosely woven linen fabrics, which are either in unbleached form or dyed in to a cream shade.
Camille A rough weave fashioned by a number of weft picks in the same shed, which shape small ribs alternately on the face and back. Knots or small squares divide the ribs, resembling the joints in bamboo.
Camise A light loose long-sleeved shirt, gown, or tunic
Camisole A short sleeveless negligee for women
Camlet A broad range of fine, high quality, smooth, lustrous, plain weave fabrics made of silk, hair, or wool fibres and in a variety of qualities for suitings and furnishings. It was originally woven in camel hair.
Camleteen An imitation of camlet fabric, made from wool, worsted or hair.
Cam lock slider In zippers, the slider that incorporates a curled projection or projections on the pull that extends through a window or windows to effect a locking action by pressing against the interlocking elements when the cam lock slider is in the locked position.
Cam loom A type of loom in which cams are employed to regulate and either give or receive particular motions. 
Camocas Characteristics: Was popular in the 14th and 15th centuries. It was a very beautiful fabric, which was often stripped with gold or silver. It had a satin base and was diapered like fine linen.
Campaigne A type of fringe made from gold, silver or silk yarns with small bell-shaped tassels. Used as trimming for dresses.
Campbell twill
Mayo twill 		A fabric usually made from fine woollen or worsted yarns, in an irregular twill weave derived from an eight end sateen weave, fashioning a 45º diagonal twill across the fabric. 
Camping tentage The term used to designate a portable, temporary shelter or structure designed to protect persons from the elements, all or a portion of the covering of which is made of fabric or other pliable materials.
Camp pockets The pockets that are sewn to the outside of the garment usually squared off and characterized by seaming.
Camp shirt  A woman's shirt having a notched collar and often patch pockets
Canary stain A fabric defect, which manifests as an yellowish stain in wool fibre that has not been removed even after scouring. Usually caused by decomposition of cystine in the wool under certain conditions.
Canary yellow  A term used to describe a light to a moderate or vivid yellow.
Candied A fabric defect, sometimes observed on the face of weighted silk fabrics, caused by the crystallisation of the filling chemical, usually a tin salt.
Candlewick  A type of soft cotton embroidery yarn.
Candlewick fabric
Kraft muslin 		A piled and thick tufted pile fabric having a fuzzy surface and is made to imitate an early handicraft when the real candlewicks were made use of for decoration purposes. The thick yarns are incorporated in to a loosely woven cotton or viscose backing fabric of muslin construction, by threading it in straight lines or patterns, leaving spaces between. The loops are then cut leaving thick tufts firmly wedged in the backing. The individually spaced tufts form the designs. The fabric is warm, cuddly and absorbent and used mainly for bedspreads, dressing gowns, bathrobes and draperies. The term also refers to soft woollen dress fabrics made to imitate candlewick bedspreads.
Candy stripes A fabric, either yarn-dyed or printed, which contain bands or stripes in colours similar to peppermint candy.
Cane The term sometimes used to describe a silk warp.
Canna A natural fibre of vegetable origin obtained from the plant canna indica, which grows abundantly in almost any conditions. It has developed a lot of interest as the plant matures in twelve weeks, while most fibre plants require years.
Cannage A fabric defect, which manifests as localised variations in the light reflected from the fabric surface, caused by differences in curvature of warp crimp. Usually this defect transpires in plain weave fabrics made with continuous filament warp. The defect crop up if the warp is too stiffly sized or if the warp tension during weaving is too low.
Cannelle repp A silk repp fabric made by employing two kinds of warps. A single yarn warp is used for the ground weave while a two-plied yarn floats over eight picks to create a rib effect.
Cannetille A type of cotton fabric containing warp-wise ribs, woven by keeping alternate ends under very low and very high tensions. Used for drapes and furnishings.
Cannons
Canons 		A traditional full, wide ruffle or flounce attached to the bottom of breeches, especially petticoat breeches. Originally a sort of long and narrow half-stocking, then wider and decorated with flounces and lace.
Canons SeeCanons
Cantala A natural fibre of vegetable origin obtained from the leaf of the agave ‘cantala plant’.
Canterburry A woven dress-fabric, of British origin, in which the warp ends are silk and weft picks are cotton.
Canton A sturdy cotton twill fabric usually made in two grades, the heavier quality in a two up, two down twill and the lighter quality in a two up one down twill. The fabric used to be exported in huge quantities to Canton, China, in the grey stage and also in the form of bleached or dyed in dark and bright colours, and hence the name.
Canton crêpe A crêpe fabric in which weft picks are made to produce a pebbly surface. Originally a silk fabric from Canton, but now often made in viscose or polyester. It is durable, due to the usage of high twist yarn, and washes easily. Often made in white and piece-dyed. Used for blouses, dresses, etc.
Canton crepe A soft crepe woven fabric with small crosswise ribs. Similar to crepe de chine but heavier.
Canton flannel A strong, heavy, medium to heavy, cotton or cotton blend fabric that is warm and absorbent, made in twill weave making use of extra soft weft picks. The fabric is finished with flannel-type nap on one or both the sides. Used in unbleached or dyed forms. It washes well, but very inflammable. Used mainly baby clothes, sleeping garments lining of gloves, and in any material in which warmth is desirable.
See also Woollen finish
Canton silk The term used to describe the silk reeled from very small kind cocoons, obtained in the southern parts of China, characterised by their hairiness, low density and poor strength. 
Canvas
  • A durable, heavy, stiff fabric, woven from plied, coarse yarns of cotton, linen, hemp, or wool, usually in plain weave but sometimes with a crosswise rib. Mostly it is manufactured in the grey state but some is dyed for different uses. It is similar to duck fabric, but is often of heavier construction. Used for shoes, sails, awnings, rucksacks, tents, etc. Unbleached linen canvas is used mainly for interlinings. Canvases for many industrial needs are made from man-made fibres.
  • Canvas is also made especially for cross-stitch embroidery, in various weights.
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    Canvas embroidery The term used to describe the types of embroidery works done on canvas fabrics.
    Canvas interfacing A type of interfacing, generally heavier than other kinds of interfacing, it is made from different fibres in various weights as sew-in or iron-in types. It is durable and very malleable under a hot iron with moisture. Most canvas interfacings can be easily shaped to the body and they give excellent structure to tailored garments. Used in coats and jackets.
    See also Sew-in woven interfacing; Iron-on canvas interfacing
    Canvas making The term used to describe the process of sewing together of all the pieces, which form the interlining of a jacket or coat, either by hand or machine.
    Canvas stitch A cross-stitch usually employed in canvas embroidery.
    Cap  A head covering especially with a visor and no brim; a distinctive head covering emblematic of a position or office, as a cardinal's biretta; mortarboard.
    Cape A cloth that fits closely at the neck and hangs loosely over the shoulders by itself or as part of a garment
    Cape leather A firm and hardwearing leather, which is usually given a glacé or shiny finish. Used mainly for gloves. This kind of leather originally came from the sheep found around the Cape of Good Hope, and hence the name.
    Capelet  A small cape usually covering the shoulders
    Cape net A type of stiff heavy net, which can be shaped when wet, and holds that shape when dried. Used for hats.
    Cape wools A general term used to describe for a group of wools obtained from South Africa. The high quality fleece has excellent working properties during manipulation. Used in heavier woollen materials.  
    Capitonné Embroidery An ornamental tufted embroidery work, employed on dress panels and hats to render them a quilted effect.
    Capotain
    Copotain     		A traditional conical cap; high crowned and small-brimmed.
    Capote  A hooded cloak or overcoat, usually long.
    Caprolactam A petrochemical derivative; the polymer is the source of some polyamide fibres.
    Capri pants
    Capris     		A close-fitting, fairly straight-cut women's pants that is tapered to the mid-calf or end above the ankle.
    Cap sleeve A small short sleeve, which sits on the shoulder, either forming a stiff cap or falling on to the arm to provide minimal coverage.
    Cap spinning The term used to describe a spinning system, in which the spindle holds up a fixed cap, the lower edge of which leads the yarn onto the revolving spinning package, which is traversed. 
    Capstan The term used to describe a machine part in a winding unit. It can be either be an immobile guide pin to facilitate control in yarn tension or a rotating roller to control yarn delivery.
    Capuche  A hood, especially the cowl of a Capuchin friar.
    Capuchin  A hooded cloak for women.
    Carbine needle A needle, similar in shape to a bearded needle, but with the beard shielded by a shoulder on the stem. The needle may be only lapped in one direction for the yarn to pass under the beard. A presser is not necessary, as the needle is self-acting, the shoulder passing the loop onto the beard. The needle has a limited use, mainly in crochet-type machines.
    Carbon-arc lamp See under Fade-O-meter
    Carbon fibre A generic name for a manufactured fibre containing at least 90 % of carbon obtained by controlled pyrolysis of appropriate fibres. The carbon fibre is manufactured by heating precursor filaments, usually of rayon or acrylic, to appropriate temperatures to convert the substance to primary pure carbon. Carbon fibre is black in colour, smooth-surfaced, not flammable, has high strength, and a good stiffness-to-weight ratio. Special grades of carbon fibre are used for protective clothing fabrics.   
    Carbonised - neutralised wool The term used to describe scoured wool from which the cellulosic impurities are removed and destroyed by treating with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying, baking, crushing, and dusting out the embrittled cellulosic matter, followed by neutralisation of the acidified wool.
    Carbonised rag fibre The term used to designate the animal fibre, reclaimed by the use of either wet or dry carbonising process.
    Carbonising
  • A chemical process used for eliminating burrs and other vegetable impurities, from an admixture with raw animal fibres, by degrading the cellulosic material to an easily friable condition. The process involves treatment with an acid, e.g. (a) by the use of hydrochloric acid gas (dry process) or (b) by sulphuric acid solution (wet process), followed by heating. Wool is dried after carbonization, when the impurities ‘dust off’.
  • The technique is innovatively made use of as a fabric finish in fabrics made from cellulosic/synthetic blended yarns. When such woven or knit fabric is subjected to carbonzing, the cellulosic component is eliminated completely, developing an attractive translucent look on the fabric.
    • Carboxymethylcellulose CMC A water-soluble cellulose gum, which is used as sizing material.
    Carboxymethylated cotton CCM The term used to describe the cotton textile material that has been given a finish, of stiffness, crease-resistance and increased absorbency by subjecting it to chemical treatments, first with mono-chloroacetic acid, and then followed with strong sodium hydroxide solution. 
    Carcanet A general term used to describe traditional ornaments, which include necklace, chain, collar, headband, etc.
    Carcass fabric The term used to describe the basic fabric, which is meant for subsequent treatments like coating, compounding, lamination or other industrial applications.
    Caracul cloth
    Karakul cloth    		 A heavy woollen fabric, woven to resemble fabrics made from Persian lamb’s wool. Used for coats, capes, and muffs for women and children.
    Carcinogen Any substance capable of causing or producing cancer in mammals.
    Car coat  A three-quarter-length overcoat.
    Card See Carding Machine
    Card clothing A solid base material, made normally by textile fabrics, through which many fine, closely spaced, wires, pins, or spikes protrude. It is used to cover the large cylinder of the carding machine for its cleaning and equalising actions.
    See also Carding; Carding Machine
    Card cutting The process of punching holes in jacquard or dobby cards in accordance with individual designs.
    Carded A yarn in which the fibres have been subjected to partial straightening and cleaning, prior to spinning. The yarn is generally coarser and more uneven than a combed yarn.
    Carded silk The term used to describe waste silks, usually obtained from imperfect cocoons, that has been subjected to a carding process. The carded silk is used for the manufacture of spun silk yarns.
    Carded web The term used to describe a continuous web or sliver produced by carding.
    Carded wool The term used to describe scoured wool, that has been subjected to a carding process.
    Carded yarn The term used to describe a yarn, made from fibres that have been carded but not combed in the manufacturing process. Carded yarn is available in a wide range of fibre lengths. Mostly medium and coarse counts are produced in this variety. The carded yarn would not be as clean, compact, lustrous or strong as combed yarns and is less expensive compared to it.
    Cardigan
  • A sweater style, usually referring to a 3-button coat with either a V or a round neck.
  • A sweater or jacket that buttons down the front.
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    Cardigan jacket A usually collarless sweater or jacket that opens the full length of the centre front.
    Cardigan rib A modified form of rib knit produced by selective tuck stitches, thus producing a thicker fabric. Cardigan stitches are either full cardigan rib or half cardigan rib, and appear the same on both sides. The fabric looks like a slightly stretched jersey fabric.
    Cardinal  A woman's short hooded cloak originally of scarlet colour fabric
    Cardinal cloth A distinctive type of fabric woven from merino wool in a characteristic red shade. It is finished meticulously and used for ecclesiastical usage. 
    Carding An operation procedure in the manufacture of spun yarns, usually cotton.  The carding process of textile fibres includes opening, disentangling, cleaning, separating fibres from each other, intermixing the fibres, laying them parallel, forming them into a thin web, and then condensing them into a single continuous untwisted strand or bundle of fibres called a ‘silver’, which is suitable for subsequent processing. This is achieved by passing the fibres between moving pins, wires, or teeth.
    See Combing
    Carding machine card A machine used to carry out the carding process. The card machine is principally composed of a large cylinder, the surface of which is covered with many small protruding metal wires, which enforce the disentanglement of the fibres.
    See also Carding
    Carding wool See Clothing Wool
    Carefree A general term used to describe a group of easy-care, machine-washable fabrics that may be hard to dye. These are usually wrinkle-resistant linen, washable wool, wrinkle-free cotton and microfibre made of synthetics, and/or treated with permanent press treatments.
    Career apparel The term used to describe a garment, the styling and performance of which are designed for various end uses so as to be suitable for on-the-job wear in a variety of businesses and professions.
    See also Dress Career Apparel; Vocational Career Apparel
    Care instructions The term used to describe a series of directions explaining, which care practices should refurbish a product without adverse effects and warnings for those care practices expected to have a harmful effect.
    See also Fabric Care
    Care label A small label attached to a textile article; the label contains relevant care instructions for refurbishing the article.
    See also Care Instructions; Permanent Care Label
    Care labelling symbols The term used to describe a system of graphic symbols, intended for use in the permanent marking of textile articles, and providing information essential for their proper care.
    Care procedure The term used to describe the processes by which products or specimens may be treated for soil removal and aesthetic improvement.
    Cargo A garment that is characterized by sporting large pockets usually with a flap and a pleat.
    Carlonizing finish A finishing process, in which the yarns are impregnated with a protective guard that becomes an integral part of the fabric. This makes the fabric washable, waterproof, stain resistant, abrasion resistant, and anti-static. The treated fabrics are usually used for wall coverings, office furnishings, etc.
    Carmine A natural dyestuff of animal origin, having a somewhat dull crimson colour, obtained from ‘cochineal’. 
    Carnation  The term used to describe a pale to greyish yellow; a moderate red.
    Caroa croa A fibre obtained from the leaf of the plant ‘neoglazovia variegata’.
    Carpenter Five-pocket pants or shorts, characterized by a ‘hammer holder’; a stretch of fabric connecting the outside seam to the back pocket.
    Carpet A floor covering, which comprises a textile use-surface made from yarns or fibres projecting from a backing. The fabric can be woven, tufted, knitted, flocked, or needle punched, made from a variety of fibres including: wool, nylon, polyester, acrylic, viscose, grass, straw, jute, cotton, etc. The use-surface Usually sold by the yard.
    Carpet backing
    Carpet substrate     		In case of a carpet, the term is used to describe a formation integrated with the use-surface and made up of one or more layers, which acts as a support for the use-surface and possibly stabilizes the dimensions and/or functions as a cushion. 
    Carpeting The term used to describe the soft floor covering that can be made of a variety of fibres. It can be cut to any size and shape and is sold by the metre/yard.
    Carpet pile The term used to describe a part of the carpet consisting of textile yarns or fibres, cut or looped, projecting from the substrate and acting as use-surface. There are many types of carpet piles.
    See also Carved Pile; Curled Pile; Cut Pile; Cut-Loop Pile; Loop Pile; Uncut Pile; Sculptured Pile; Textured Pile; Tip-Sheared Pile
    Carpet pile brush A hand-operated brush having long, semi-rigid bristles intended specifically for erecting the pile of small areas of carpet.
    Carpet square A carpet in rectangular form, with or without a border, around 2 metre at the shortest dimension and often freely positioned.
    Carpet tile A type of textile floor covering of specified shape and size, with backing of bitumen, glass fibre, or PVC, etc. and used in a modular style.
    Carpet underlay A separate cushioning fabric, used under a carpet, usually made from jute, hair, foam rubber, etc.
    Carpet wool A type of long coarse wools about 150 to 400 mm in length, strong and resilient but lacking in softness so that they are not suitable for clothing fabrics and as the name implies they are used in carpets where their lustre and superb resilience can be exploited. Produced by mountain and hill breeds of sheep.
    See Wool; Botany Wool; Crossbred Wool
    Carpholite A fibrous mineral, hydrous aluminium manganese silicate. The fibre is seen in bunches having the colour of straw. 
    Carreau Term sometimes used by textile designing and weaving trade for describing fabrics having check designs.
    Carreaux Lightweight silk dress fabric, made in twill or satin weave and having check patterns. Made in various qualities and colours.
    Carriage lace
    Synonym: Coach lace    		 Woven narrow fabric on the face of which is an uncut pile design; generally incorporating one weft, but two or three wefts are sometimes used for further ornamental effects. Used for embellishment of the upholstery of carriages and other vehicles.
    Carrickmacross lace Traditional type Irish lace made from heavy yarns in an almost crochet type of work, characterised by many loops; lace with appliquéd motifs and buttonholes edges.
    Carrier  In dyeing parlance, the term used to describe a plasticizing agent that aids the penetration of the dye onto or into hydrophobic man-made fibres. The accelerant is particularly used in dyeing of and printing of hydrophobic fibres disperse dyes.
    Carrier fibre
  • Fibre used as support to another fibre during the spinning process and then dissolved out of the product during finishing process.
  • Fibre that is blended with the main constituent fibre to improve processing behaviour.
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    Carrier yarn Yarn that is used to support another yarn in weaving, knitting, and sometimes in lace making, and is then ‘dissolved out’ of the product in during the finishing process.
    Carrot Term used to describe an active reagent used in the process of carroting, normally mercury in nitric acid and mixtures of oxidizing and hydrolysing agents.
    Carroting Process of modifying the tips of rabbit-fur fibre, by chemical treatment, to enhance their felting capacity. 
    Carroty  Term used to describe a textile material having the colour of carrots.
    Cartridge belt  Belt worn around the waist for attaching various equipments, such as a cartridge case, compass, etc.
    Carved pile Carpet pile that has been sheared for the purpose of creating different levels of pile, often on the periphery of certain elements of design formed by the pile.
    Casablanca system Traditional lengthy draft spinning system, in which two aprons are employed for guiding the roving sliver through the process of drafting and attenuation. 
    Casein Protein compound found especially in milk. Casein, the main protein in milk, is being used as the raw material for some regenerated protein fibres.
    Casein fibre
  • Regenerated protein fibre derived from casein. The casein is precipitated from skimmed milk and dissolved in an alkaline solution, which is then aged and spun through spinnerets into an acid bath. Casein is a source for man-made fibres, derived from natural protein substances that come under the generic classification of azlon. The filaments have a natural white colour and are smooth-surfaced, with faint striations. Casein and wool blends are used for hand knitting and machine knitting yarns. The whiteness of casein lends itself to the production of pastel shades.
  • See also Azlon
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    Casement cloth
  • Light to medium weight, plain open weave fabric with a weft predominating surface, often made from cotton. The fabric is soft and drapes well, and normally produced in white or cream colours. Used mainly as backing for heavy drapery or curtains.
  • However, over a period of time the term has come to mean a wide variety of plain weave simple curtaining materials, made from practically any fibre, in any colour, and in various weights. As not particularly very hardwearing, it is not used for furnishings.
    • Case Term refers to a container that is a shipping unit. It holds a number of textile packages, usually carton, box, bale, or others.
    Case cord Smooth and flexible cord comprising of two or more constituents twisted together, each constituent being made of a core, which is helically covered at an acute angle by multiple ends of continuous filament yarns. 
    Casha Woven fabric, similar to flannel in appearance, made from wool; a partial addition of cashmere wool is resorted to for imparting some extra softness. Used for overcoats for adults and children.
    Cashgora Hair from the downy undercoat of a cashgora goat; a cross breed of angora and cashmere species. The hair is fine and has low to medium lustre
    Cashmere
    Synonym: Kashmir     		Fibre length and thickness???
    Premium, luxury fibre obtained from the soft fleecy undercoat hair of the cashmere goat, capra hircus laniger, native to the Kashmir province of north of India and Tibet, Mongolia, China, Iran, and Iraq. This animal grows two coats, a fine soft undercoat and a coarse outer coat of long hairs. Every spring the goats moult and shed lumps of hair, or the hair is plucked from the animals when it is loose. The fibre is very fine. The fibre is cylindrical, beautifully soft, silky and lustrous with a smooth slightly slippery luxurious handle. Has a very soft silky finish and is very lightweight. Doesn’t stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. It can be dyed into a variety of shades. Comes in different weights and often combed and sold in tops and noils. The fibre is used for high quality knitwear, dress-goods, shawls, coatings and suitings. Fabrics of 100 % cashmere are very expensive, so that mixtures with wool or synthetics are quite common, to cut costs and improve the wear. The addition of wool detracts from the softness according to amount, but improves durability. The characteristic pale brown colour of some types of cashmere has led to imitation of cashmere, by dyeing soft botany wool to this colour, but cannot be labelled as such. Similar hair from animals bred selectively from the feral goat populations of Australia, New Zealand and Scotland, may be regarded as cashmere provided the fibre diameter is similar.
    Cassimer See Cassimere
    Cassimere
    Synonym: Cassmere; Cassimer     		Not to be confused with cashmere. A closely woven twill fabric with worsted warp and woollen weft and having a slightly lustrous finish. An average quality cloth, it has a smooth and somewhat lustrous face. However, the term is employed sometimes to mean any woollen fabric that does not have any other distinctive name.
    Cassmere See Cassimere
    Cashmerette Soft, lustrous cotton twill fabric often lightly napped. It is an attempt to imitate cashmere. 
    Cashmere work Rich, multi-coloured Indian embroidery, mostly inlaid appliqué, with complex needlework and very nearly covering the whole face of the cloth.
    Casing In a garment, the provision of a fabric tunnel, through which elastic cord, tape, ribbon, etc. are threaded through.
    Casaque See Cassock
    Cassock
    Casaque    		 An unbelted, open-sided, three-quarter length overcoat, with broad full sleeves and wide throughout the body, ending at thigh-height or below. The traditional garment is mainly worn for hunting and riding; often adorned with woven braids.
    Cast block
    Stereo block    		 The term used to describe the print-blocks made of ‘type metal’. Many casts of small repeats are made and riveted on to a hardwood base to form a large block. 
    Cast coating The term used to describe an application technique of coating of resinous materials such as vinyl onto a fabric and subsequent curing by heated casting barrels.
    Casting off The term used to describe the formation of sealed edge to the last course of a piece of knitting, by chaining a separate thread through each of the loops of the last course. Originally used to be a hand technique, but now automatic casting off has been achieved on many models of flat knitting machines.
    Casting out A weaving term used to indicate that some hooks and/or healds of a Jacquard machine are not being employed.
    Castle A type of white, raw silk of Chinese origin.
    Cast off
    Knock over     		The term used to indicate the point at which an old stitch slides from the top of the needle, allowing the needle to pull the new stitch through the old stitch.
    Castor  A beaver hat
    Casual microfibre A term used to describe cent percent polyester microfibre fabric that is water repellent and wind resistant.
    Catalyst The term used to describe a relatively small amount of a substance, which initiates, facilitates and accelerates a chemical reaction, although not necessary a part of that reaction. Catalysts are used in fibre production, and textile dyeing, finishing, and processing.
    Catch The term used to describe the underlap material in garments, providing a backing to an opening to take buttons or a zip tape for fastening, e.g. fly-catch, button-catch, etc.
    Catch cord A heavy thread or wire, woven temporarily near the selvedge of a fabric. The function of the catch cord is either to grasp the extra weft picks, which should not weave in the selvedge and are to be cut-off later, or it to facilitate the formation of the selvedge, like the picot edge, loop.  
    Catch-stitch A cross-stitch made backwards, if the cloth is too bulky to be turned down twice. 
    Catenary length The term used to describe the difference between the length of the shortest and the longest component of a plied yarn or cabled cord after twisting. 
    Caterpillar A yarn defect, caused by a break in part of the yarn. The broken part becomes pushed back during working and curls around the unbroken part in the shape of a caterpillar. 
    Cat eye See Pinhole
    Cathedral train
    Monarch train    		 A cascading train extending six to eight feet behind the gown, for the most formal weddings.
    Cation A positive ion; an atom or group of atoms that has lost one or more electrons.
    Cationic fibre A modified fibre variant, which takes deep and brilliant colours. When mixed or blended with conventional fibres, various multi-colour and cross-dye effects are possible in a fabric from single dye bath or operation.
    Cationic dyes A type of dye, that dissociates in an acidified, aqueous solution to give a positively charged coloured ion. Usually used on acrylic and modified polyester and nylon yarns. Often used to achieve cross-dyed effects on cationic dyeable yarns, woven in a pattern with regular yarn in the same fabric. The pattern becomes discernible by dyeing the fabric in separate baths, one for each of the type of yarn.
    Cat tail A type of natural fibre of vegetable origin obtained from the seed hairs of ‘typha latifolia’ and ‘typha angustifolia’. The short length, low density, soft, brittle, fine, dull coloured fibres are excellent insulating material, both against heat and sound and possess a high degree of buoyancy.
    Cattle hair The term used to describe the hair removed from the carcasses of cows and horses. The hair finds usage for blending with low grade wool or cotton in coarse yarns, which are used in carpets, horse blankets, felt manufacture, etc. 
    Cauliflower ruche
    Half-round ruche     		A woven flat ruche fabric, the weft of which provides a very heavy uncut-pile effect on one side. The cross-section of a cauliflower ruche is almost semi-circular.
    Causticising A finish applied on celllulosic, mostly cotton, fabrics, to improve the colour yield in printing and dyeing, particularly with reactive dyes. The process includes a short time treatment of celllulosic fabrics with caustic soda solution at room temperature without tension.
    Caustic soda The term commonly used to designate sodium hydroxide.
    Caustic soda crêpe
    Chemical crimping     		A finish applied on cellulosic, mostly cotton, fabrics to simulate a type of crêpe effect on its surface, by the innovative usage of caustic soda. When caustic soda is applied on cotton goods, there occurs a shrinking action of the cotton, which results in an attractive crêpe effect. The pattern is often in the form of stripes. It may also be a design of dots, all-over effects, etc. One way of application is printing of caustic soda directly on the cloth, which produces a type of crêpe effect on the printed areas.  In some cases those areas of the fabric surface that are to be left untreated, are subjected to an initial treatment with resist material. When caustic soda is applied on the fabric, the surface shrinks, resulting in puckering or crinkling on the un-resisted areas.
    CAV Acronym for Critical application value
    Cavalier style The term used to describe a very ostentatious men’s fashion trend, which was popular during the first half of the 17th century. 
    Cavalry twill A medium to heavy weight, warp-faced fabric, with clean, steep, prominent double twill effect, fashioned by special twill weaves. Sturdy, rough, hardwearing, and exhibits some elasticity. Traditionally made with worsted warps and woollen or worsted wefts. Characterised by its pronounced narrow and wide wale, in groups of two. Somewhat resembles tricotine, but original tricotine is much more finer with a double diagonal. Used for men’s trousers, raincoats and riding habits, skiwear, sportswear, and uniform fabrics, etc. Since the traditional form of this fabric is rather expensive, it is also made in cotton or viscose for sportswear.
    Cavings The term used to describe the rejects of flax fibres, comprising mainly of coarse fragments of broken straw and root ends.
    C.C. [c.c.] See under Cotton Count
    CCM Acronym for Carboxymethylated Cotton
    CCS Acronym for Controlled Compressive Shrinkage
    CE Acronym for Recoverable elongation
    Ceiba See under Cotton trees
    Ceinture A belt or sash for the waist.
    Celadon  The term used to describe a greyish yellow green.
    Cela fibre A cellulose acetate fibremade in cut staple form, which is used for blending with other fibres to reduce the tendency to creasing. Yarns made from these fibres find usage mainly for medium weight fabrics and blankets. Woven fabrics made from cela fibre blended yarns have reduced tendency to creasing.
    Cellophane The term used to describe regenerated cellulose film or sheets made in the viscose process. The fine, transparent, smooth and glossy film is flexible, insulative, odour proof, grease proof and moisture proof. It may be dyed into various colours. Used mainly in packaging industry with very little usage in textile articles.
    Cellophane effect An effect created in a fabric, which gives it the iridescent or sparkling appearance of cellophane.
    Cellular fabric The term used to describe a type of fabric constructed with close and orderly distribution of holes or hollows. In woven fabrics the effect is achieved by honeycomb, leno or perforated weaves.
    Cellulase See under Enzymes
    Cellulose A white, naturally occurring, carbohydrate polymer found in organic woody substances of most vegetation. The basic structural component of plant cell walls, cellulose comprises about 33 % of all vegetable matter (about 95 % of cotton and 50 % of wood are cellulose) and is the most abundant of all naturally occurring organic compounds. Being the basic matter in all fibres of vegetable origin, it is the major raw material used in the production of manufactured fibres like acetate, viscose, and triacetate. It is present in all fibres of vegetable origin, obtained from the seed, bast, leaf or fruit. In the chemically modified form of cellulose acetate it is the acetate fibre and in viscose, it is found in its regenerated form. Other cellulose derivatives are used as adhesives, and in moisture-proof coatings.
    Cellulose acetate
    Synonym:Cellulose ethanoate     		Man-made fibre produced from cellulose acetate, a chemical derivative of cellulose. Filaments are spun from an acetate acid ester of cellulose, which have been coagulated or solidified from the spinning solution when pushed through a spinneret. It is fundamentally different in its chemical structure from natural cellulosic fibres and viscose, except that all contain cellulose. Its chemical properties differ from viscose in that it is sensitive to certain solvents, notably acetone which dissolves it very quickly. The manufacturing process includes, dissolving of cellulose acetate in acetone and extrusion into heated air, where the acetone evaporates and leaves filaments. The filaments are either gathered together as yarn or later cut into staples. It is a thermoplastic fibre, which melts at 230° C, but may soften and might be damaged even at slightly lower temperatures. It has relatively low moisture absorption and dries rapidly. Dye affinity is totally different from that of viscose and cotton as it can be dyed only with disperse dyes. Fabric made from cellulose acetate fibre, is similar in external appearance to viscose fabric but not quite as strong or as resistant to abrasion. However it is more resilient and has a more pleasing silky handle. It is crease-resistant, drapes well, and not readily flammable. Exposed to a naked flame it melts and drips as it burns. Does not conduct heat readily. In some instances it is considered to be a better artificial silk than viscose, and comparatively less expensive. Though it is used as a clothing material, usage is mostly limited to rainwear, umbrellas, ties, etc. It is not suitable for such uses, which need quick absorbency.
    Cellulose diacetate Term used loosely to describe acetone-soluble cellulose acetate. Theoretically, it is an ester of cellulose and acetic acid containing 48.8 % by mass of combined acetic acid. Not a commercial textile product.
    Cellulose ethanoate See Cellulose acetate
    Cellulose ethers General term used to describe methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and similar compounds, which are used as finishing agents on yarns and fabrics, as substitutes for starch.
    Cellulose fibres See Cellulosic fibres
    Cellulose imago print
  • Printing technique by which a white design is applied on a white fabric.
  • Process of developing an opaque appearance on white or pastel ground by the usage of cellulose and pigment solution.
  • See also Pigment printing  
    • Cellulose triacetate Man-made fibre similar in most respects, to cellulose acetate except that it has two important differences, which justify its use. The first difference is that, although it is thermoplastic it is more resistant to heat than cellulose acetate, melting only at approximately 300°C. The second difference is that, it can be subjected to heat setting,like a synthetic fibre, by subjecting it to a heat of about 195°C. In the heat-set condition, it exhibits very low absorbency and drip-dry properties like synthetic fibres. It is used mainly for pleated fabrics.
    Cellulose xanthate The term used to describe a series of compounds formed between cellulose and carbon disulphide, in the presence of a strong alkali.
    Cellulosic fibres
    Synonym: Cellulose fibres    		 General term used to describe a group of fibres composed of cellulose, which shares a common molecular structure either from natural sources (cotton, linen, hemp etc) or regenerated by man-made operations. The chemical processing of short cotton fibres, linters, or wood pulp produce fibres like viscose, acetate, and triacetate.
    Cellulosic filament Filament fibre made or chemically derived from a naturally occurring cellulose raw material.
    Celtic twill Term sometimes used to describe the twilled basket weave.
    Cendal
    Silk lining fabric, fairly resembling taffeta, made in various qualities, usually in plain or fine cross rib weaves.
    Cendal
    Fibre: Silk, made in various qualities
    Weave: Usually plain with a fine cross rib.
    Characteristics: Material resembling taffeta. Widely used in the Middle Ages, but rarely found except for as lining by the 17th century.
    Centre-back waist length In body measurements, the vertical distance along the spine from the cervical to the waist.
    Centre-closed shedding See under Closed shedding
    Centre front Portion of a pattern or the garment, which is, supposed to come in the exact front.
    Centre-front waist length In body measurements, the vertical distance from the neck baseline at the centre front to the waist level.
    Centre gimp Leavers-type lace construction, in which gimps or the filling yarns are positioned between the front and back warp threads and the ground net is fashioned by the interaction of two warp threads with each bobbin thread. The ornamental objects, usually with thick thread outlines, are filled by traversing gimp threads according to the requirements of the pattern.
    Centre loop See Kink-in
    Centre selvedge Split selvedge provided in the centre of a fabric, when two single width cloths are woven on a double width loom. The split is obtained by leaving two or more threads in the centre of the selvedge and cutting the cloth where the threads are missing.
    Centre slot application Term used to describe a method of zipper fixing, in which the zipper is concealed beneath two fabric flaps and there are two visible rows of stitching on the right side of the garment an equal distance from the seam line on either side. Centre slot applications are commonly used for centre back openings in skirts and dresses.
    Centre-stitching double cloth See under Double cloth
    Centre-stitching warp
    Synonym: Binding warp    		 Additional warp employed in double fabrics for binding the two plies of the fabric structure together.
    Centrifugal hydro extraction Process of removal of water by centrifugal force from wet textiles contained in a perforated rotor or basket.
    Centrifugal spinning
  • Method of production for man-made fibres; molten or dissolved polymer is thrown centrifugally in fibre form from the edge of a rapidly rotating surface rotating at high speed.
  • Method of spinning, in which the yarn is passed down a central guide tube and is then collected by centrifugal force on the inner surface of a rotating cylindrical container. 
    • Centring mark See Clip mark
    Ceramic fibres See Silica fibres
    Cerecloth Fabric treated with melted wax or gummy matter and formerly used especially for wrapping a dead body.
    Cerifil Trade name of a spinning system, in which the yarn is wound onto the spinning tube via a ‘winder’, which is rotated by the yarn, and replaces the ring and traveller, which are used in ring spinning and confines the yarn balloon.
    Cerise In textile parlance, a moderate red colour.
    Cerulean  In textile parlance, colour resembling the blue of the sky.
    Cervical to bust point In body measurements, the distance from the cervical around the base of the neck and down to the bust point.
    Cervical to wrist In body measurements, with the arm bent, the distance from the cervical to the shoulder joints, along the outside of the arm, over the elbow to the greater prominence on the outside of the wrist.
    Cestus  Hand covering made of leather bands often loaded with lead or iron and used by boxers in ancient Rome
    Ceylon Dyed fabric having cotton warp ends and woollen weft picks. Used for shirts and blouses.
    Ceylonette Fabric, made in imitation of Ceylon fabric made entirely from cotton.
    CFRP See Carbon fibre reinforced plastic
    C - glass Glass fibre that has superior resistance to corrosion by a wide range of chemicals, including acids and alkalis. It is widely used for applications where such resistance is required.
    Cha Fine, lightweight, and plain weave Chinese silk fabric, normally made with densely spaced floral patterns.
    Chaconne Cravat made of a ribbon dangling from the shirt collar to the chest.
    Chador  Large cloth worn as a combination head covering, veil, and shawl by Muslim women especially in Iran
    Chafe mark See Abrasion mark
    Chafed yarn Yarn defect; yarn that has got weakened by abrasion or friction, due to over filling of bobbins, poor quality spinning of yarns, unevenness of yarns or slippage of yarn on the warp beam, etc.
    Chaff Component of trash in cotton in the form of a heterogeneous assortment of vegetable fragments, most of them being small pieces of leaf and stalk.
    Chafer fabric Fabric coated with unvulcanised rubber, which is wrapped around the bead section of a tyre before vulcanisation of the complete tyre, and whose purpose is to maintain an abrasion-resistant layer of rubber in contact with the wheel on which the tyre is mounted. For tubeless tyres they are usually resin-impregnated multi-filament mesh fabrics of rayon or nylon or alternatively nylon monofilament mesh. 
    Chain
  • Chain-like rope made from several hanks connected to each other with soft cords for ease of conveyance and speed of operations during bleaching and souring of cotton yarns in hank or skein form.
  • In zippers, the assemblage formed by interlocking several elements of two stringers.
    		•
    Chain-break effect Attractive design effect achieved in a fabric, by weaving overplaid and making deliberate weave-break in the weft.  
    Chain cloth Heavy, dense, industrial filter fabric usually made from two ply, carded cotton yarn in two up, two down, broken twill weave. 
    Chain draft
    Synonym: Lifting plan; Pegging plan; Point paper design    		 Plan of harness movements in a loom during weaving, usually drawn on a graph paper, to produce desired design structure.
    Chain dyeing Dyeing technique, in which yarns or fabrics are tied, end-to-end, into an endless rope form and the rope is put onto a reel and passed through the dye bath in a continuous manner. The method is used when yarns or fabrics are low in tensile strength; affords high production.
    Chain mail Protective covering for the upper part of the body.
    Chainette Tubular cord produced on a circular knitting machine having no more than 20 needles.
    Chain fork See Lucet
    Chainless mercerising See under Mercerising
    Chain mercerising See under Mercerising
    Chain sampling In acceptance sampling, the sampling plan, for which the decision to accept or reject a lot is based in part on the results of inspection of the lot and in part on the results of inspection of the immediately preceding lots.
    Chain stitch
  • Stitch that interloops the needle thread(s) with a bottom looper thread on the underside of the seam. Most main seams sewn in woven apparel are sewn with this stitch formation.
  • See also Single thread chain stitch; Two-thread chain stitch
    		•
    Chain-stretching Method employed to prevent shrinkage of fabric in width and length after caustic impregnation.
    Chain thickness In zippers, the measurement from front to back of the chain.
    Chain twill
    Synonym: Clay twill    		 Twill fabric having an appearance similar to a chain, fashioned by a combination of weave and material. During dyeing and finishing, excessive shrinkage is developed, which results in the chain appearance of twill. Thick yarns set loosely in the loom provide the fabric with the necessary shrinking property with the required weight.
    Chain twist Yarn first made two-ply, and then an additional yarn is twisted around the two-ply yarn in a reverse twist.
    Chain warp Warp yarn packages in the form of hanks or ball that are looped or linked in the form of a chain to facilitate bleaching, dyeing, shipping, etc.
    Chain warping See under Warping
    Chain weave Fancy weave, somewhat similar to bird’s eye weave, which fashions a diagonal wale, usually employed on clear finished worsteds.
    Chain width In zippers, the measurement between the shoulders of the interlocked elements or between the outermost edges of the bead if the bead extends beyond the elements.
    Chain yarn Fancy yarn, which is the product of a number of twisting operations. A soft, thick, yarn is doubled with a yarn of ordinary twist and finer count. Then a still finer thread is twisted with the already doubled thread, in the opposite direction.   
    Chair web
  • Narrow fabric, used for supporting the seat of chairs, couches, etc. Made from yarns of jute, flax, hemp, paper, and cotton.
  • See also Upholstery webbing
    • Chalk finish Unendurable finish applied on lingerie silks and viscose to increase their weights and to impart some dullness. The process involves depositing of dulling and weighting materials on the surface of the fabric. Not to be confused with durable viscose, acetate and man-made fibres, that is made dull in the yarn manufacturing process itself.
    Chalkiness Fabric defect, in which some areas in the fabric take the appearance of finely sprinkled chalk dust, caused by unintentional delustring of the fabric surface.
    Chalk stripes Fabric design, in which white stripes, that look like chalk lines of varying widths, show on a dark ground. In case of a printed fabric the stripes are made by a print design and in yarn dyed wovens it is a weave design. Used for outerwear for men and women. 
    Challie See Challis
    Challis
    Synonym: Challie; Chalys    		 Soft, lightweight dress-fabricin slightly open plain weave, generally using worsted spun yarns in warp and weft. Cotton challis is given a slight nap to achieve a soft finish. One of the softest fabrics ever made; named after the term Anglo-Indian term ‘shalee’, meaning soft. It drapes and gathers well and retains lightly pressed pleats. Made in plain or floral print patterns. Crushes in wear, but sheds creases overnight. Used for dresses for women and children, blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would usually be lined.
    Chalys SeeChallis
    Chambray Durable, lightweight, plain weave cotton fabric having coloured, often blue, warp and white weft, producing a mottled look. It is also made in striped, checked, or figured patterns as well as plain. The popular variety is a relatively square (80 x 76) weave cotton fabric. The finer quality chambrays may have silk weft, whereas in cheaper fabrics, the weft is usually of synthetic yarns or cotton blends. Used for children wear, shirts, sportswear, pyjamas, etc. In jeanswear, fabric mills usually use a medium depth indigo warp colour and natural (unbleached) weft.
    Chameleon Fabric having a variable multicolour effect that changes with the angle of view. A three-tone effect is achieved by usage of warp ends of one colour and two weft picks of two different colours in each shed. Often used in weaves like taffetas, poplins or silk faille.
    Chamois Group of skin fabrics. Originally the skin of the chamois, the small mountain goat, only covered by this term; but now the skins of deer, sheep and goat also sometimes included. The skins are dressed with oil and given a suede finish on both sides. They are very soft and limp and used for many types of clothing.
    Chamois cloth  Thick, plain weave cotton fabric made to imitate the chamois skin fabric. The fabric is napped, sheared, and dyed to simulate the chamois leather. It is stiff, soft and more durable. Used in dusters, interlining, and storage bags for articles to prevent scratching.
    Chamois-like Fabric that has a hand-feel, suggesting the soft pliable leather from the skin of the chamois goat.
    Chamoisette Fine, firmly knit fabric in double knit construction having a very short soft nap, used mainly for gloves. The fabric wears well and is made in cotton, viscose and nylon. The nylon chemisette is more often called ‘glove silk’. 
    Champagne  In textile parlance, a pale orange yellow to light greyish yellowish brown colour.
    Champion silk Fine, muga silk that is white in colour, and indigenous of Bangladesh and Assam in India.
    Chand-tara Fabric pattern of Indian origin, which comprise, literally a ‘moon and star’ pattern.
    Changeable effect
    Synonym: Changeant effect; Glacé effect; Iridescent effect; Shot effect
  • Term used to describe a type of sparkling effect in woven fabric, accomplished by the usage of warp and weft yarns dyed in totally contrasting colours. When viewed from different angles the fabric exhibit changing colour effects. Any type of fibres may be employed, but the effect produced is more striking by glossy fibres, such as silk, acetate, polyester, etc. 
  • Effect, somewhat similar can be realized in piece dyed fabrics also, by utilizing two different natural fibres in warp and weft or two different man-made fibres in warp and weft or a natural and a man-made fibre yarn in warp and weft. The various yarns, which have different affinities for dyes, cause the finished cloth to reflect different colours at different angles.
    		•
    Changeant effect See Changeable effect
    Change-in filling See Mixed filling
    Channel Term used to describe the narrow passage, formed between plies of fabric in a garment or by attachment of an additional ply of material, usually to house a draw cord.
    Chantilly lace Bobbin lace having a net ground of fine six-sided spidery mesh pattern. Well-spaced isolated ornamental motifs of scrolls, vines, branches and flowers are outlined with a heavier thread (cordonnet). Originated in Chantilly, as a lace in silk, now it is machine-made from a variety of fibres like, nylon, viscose and mercerised cotton, etc. Used mainly for bridal veils
    Chapeau Type of hat.
    Chapel train Most popular of all train lengths, it flows from three to four feet behind the gown.
    Chaplet  Wreath to be worn on the head.
    Chaps  Leather leggings joined by a belt or lacing often with flared outer flaps and worn over the trousers, as by western ranch hands.
    Character Major factor that is taken into consideration during the process of cotton classing.
    Charcoal  In textile parlance the colour of a dark grey.
    Charcoal Pollution-free substance; it consists of 80-90% solid carbon. Charcoal is the remainder after natural wood is dissolved by heat without an additive at a high temperature (600-1200°C). It is an alkali with a pH value of 8-9 and is also characterized by porosity caused by carbonised cell wall of wood. It has excellent absorption and ventilation properties. And it has outstanding capacities of keeping warm, water discharging and heat accumulation. It provides a good deodorization effect by generating negative ion with property of emitting far infrared rays.
    Charged system Dry-cleaning method, in which an oil-soluble reagent such as petroleum sulphonate is added to the solvent so that a significant amount of water can be added to obtain a substantially clear dispersion of water in the solvent. Usually in a high-charged system the concentration of added reagent, a purported detergent, is 4 % while, in a low-charged system the concentration ranges from 0.75 to 2.0%.
    Char length In flammability test, the distance from the edge of the specimen exposed to the flame to the upper edge of the charred section.
    Charmante satin Double-wefted fabric, in which the face is 1/2 twill and the back is weft sateen, developed from thick, low-twist weft picks.
    Charmelaine Dress fabric woven in 1 x 2 twill, woven from botany wool. It has a twill repp effect, thanks to a high sett two-plied fine warp and a low-sett thick hard-twisted weft. 
    Charmeuse
  • Soft, lightweight fabric in satin weave, having a semi lustrous face and a dull back, made with hard twist yarns for warp ends and crepe yarn weft picks. Silk, cotton or man-made fibres are employed. It has excellent drape, but is not very hardwearing and also tends to crease. Piece-dyed and printed. Used mainly for lingerie, draping gowns, pyjamas and soft evening dresses.
  • The term is also used to describe a soft, lustrous finish produced on fabrics by mercerising and schreinerizing.
    • Charmeuse-type Term sometimes employed to describe soft silky fabrics.
    Charring Formation of carbonaceous residue as the result of pyrolysis or incomplete combustion.
    Chartreuse  In textile parlance, a variable colour averaging brilliant yellow green.
    Charvet Soft, high lustre fabric made in silk or acetate in a diagonal rib weave, often with crosswise stripes of alternate dull and satin finish. Usually made in width of 90cm or less. Used for making ties. The fabric is cut on the bias so that the tie knots and drapes softly. A joint is often necessary to produce sufficient width.
    Chase Conical part of the body of yarn in a cop, bobbin or pirn form on which the thread is wound during one traversing cycle. The term ‘chase length’ can be either the length of the conical portion of a package, measured along its surface or the length of yarn wound onto a package in one complete traversing cycle.
    Chased fabric Cotton or linen fabric, that has been subjected to a chasing finish; the finish imparts some ‘bright-and-dim’ effects on the fabric surface.
    Chase length See under Chase
    Chasing Fabric finishing process, usually on cotton or linen, to impart them a stringy look and durable lustre. The finish achieved is some kind of an imitation of the beetled finish. The finishing operation is carried out on calendar machine. In the finished fabric, the threads on the surface remain round rather than elliptical and they tend to close up, giving the fabric a firm a hand and even appearance. 
    Chastity belt Belt-like device of medieval times, designed to prevent sexual intercourse on the part of the woman wearing it.
    Chasuble  Sleeveless outer vestment worn by the officiating priest at mass.
    Chatter Printing defect, which manifests as light and dark streaks running across the cloth.
    Chaugoshia Four-cornered cap.
    Chauri Flywhisk made generally from a yak's tail; traditional symbol of royalty or divinity.
    Check design Fabric pattern made of small squares or rectangles. It may be printed, yarn dyed, cross-dyed or woven into the fabric, as a dobby or Jacquard.
    Checkerboard weave effects In fabric designing, the configurations that are developed in high and low lustre satin, checked broken twill, braided twill, twill ribs, etc
    Checkerwork Fabric design, which is shaped by evenly balanced, squares in alternating colours.
    Check fabrics See Checks
    Checks Group of fabrics, produced in a variety of check designs. The simple form of check fabric is with bold stripe colourings in both warp and weft producing a rectangular block pattern as the colours combine with each other to produce solid blocks of colours combined with blocks of mixed colour, e.g. the very wide range of tartan designs. Woven checks can also be produced as a combination of weave and colour. The traditional checks can be further developed to obtain more variety by using coloured twist yarns instead of solid colours, by the use of different colour orders and different weaves. Some common traditional checks include: Houndstooth check, Gunclub check, Shepherd’s check, Guard’s check, Glen Urquhart check, etc.
    Check spikes Free standing steel spikes, 15 to 20cm high, which are placed at certain points on a lay, usually the corners of check patterns, in order to ensure that the checks match each other when cut. 
    Check spring In a sewing machine, the spring with a loop at one end, through which the thread passes. It takes up the slack in the needle thread during stitch forming and assists the take up in setting the stitch.
    Cheese Cylindrical package of yarn; the diameter of the package is usually larger than its length. The yarn is cross-wound, usually on a flangeless paper or wooden tube. In cheese dyeing the support is made of stainless steel, usually a spring, to allow circulation of the dye bath through the yarns.
    Cheese cloth
    Synonym: Butter cloth; Butter muslin; Tobacco cloth     		Soft, lightweight, open, cotton gauze fabric, usually made from fine, carded cotton yarns in loose plain weave. The natural colour of this sheer gauze is cream, but may be bleached or dyed. Usually it comes in a rough finish and has a kind of wrinkled look. Though not hardwearing, it washes well. Originally it was made for wrapping of cheese and butter, and later found to be ideal a polishing cloth. For usage as underlining, it is heavily sized and stiffened and in the soft furnishing trade it is used its unsized form for quilt inner linings. Now its improved version, with somewhat closer texture, often containing some amount of polyester, has slowly developed in to a fashion fabric. Used for blouses, skirts, nightwear, and men’s shirts.
    Cheese warping Mechanical process of winding a set of parallel threads, with quick traverse, in the form of a leased twistless rope, on to a spool in the form of a large cheese.
    Chelate Chemical compound whose molecules contain a closed ring of atoms, of which one is a metal atom.
    Chelating agent
    Synonym: Sequestering agent    		 Chemical compound which coordinates with a metal to form a chelate; it is capable of deactivating metal ions by the formation of a water-soluble complex. Chelating agents trap or remove heavy metal ions and also reduce the amount of foam present in processing baths.
    Chemic See Chemick
    Chemical bonding
  • Part of a production route for making non-woven fabrics; binders are applied to a web which, when dried, bond the individual fibres to form a coherent sheet.
  • See Adhesive bonding
    		•
    Chemical cotton Scoured and bleached pure cotton linters, which is utilized as a source of cellulose for the manufacture of viscose and cuprammonium rayon, cellulose acetate and nitrocellulose lacquers.
    Chemical bonds Attractive forces that hold atoms together in elements or compounds.
    Chemical change Change in which one or more new substances are formed.
    Chemical crimping See Caustic soda crêpe
    Chemical equation Description of a chemical reaction by placing the formulas of the reactants on the left and the formulas of products on the right of an arrow.
    Chemical equilibrium State of dynamic balance in which the rates of forward and reverse reactions are equal; there is no net change in concentrations of reactants or products while a system is at equilibrium.
    Chemical fibre Man-made fibre, it being a literal translation of various non-English terms having the same meaning as man-made fibre.
    Chemical finishing Application of chemical materials, other than colorants, to textile products to impart desired functional and/or aesthetic properties to the textile products, which may or may not be durable in normal use, e.g. water repellence, glaze, crease resistance, mercerising, etc.
    Chemically modified cotton
    Synonym:Chemmod cotton    		 Cotton materials that have been subjected to various chemical treatments so as to impart significant and enduring changes in properties.
    Chemical quilting Quilting stitches, done by chemical process instead of actual stitching.
    Chemical stability Level or degree of resistance of a textile material to chemicals such as acids, bases, solvents, oils, oxidising agents and to chemical reactions such as those catalysed by light.
    Chemical stretch See Slack mercerising
    Chemical testing Group of testing procedures, for textile materials, by employing various chemicals in a laboratory.
    Chemick
    Synonym: Chemic     		Chlorine bath, which is employed for bleaching of cellulose fibres. The bath is made of calcium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite solution, and maintained in an alkaline pH.
    Chemicking Process of bleaching of non-protein fibre materials by means of a dilute hypochlorite solution.
    Chemise Women's one-piece lightweight undergarment; a loose straight-hanging dress made from linen.
    Chemisette  Women's garment, especially one, as of lace, to fill the open front of a dress.
    Chenillè
  • Thick, soft, tufty, silk or worsted velvet cord or yarn comprising of a cut pile, which may be one or more of a variety of fibres helically, positioned around axial threads those secure it. The yarn with fuzzy pile protruding from all sides has a velvety caterpillar-like appearance. The term chenillè is derived from the French word for caterpillar. Used typically in embroidery and for trimmings. Another type is made by cutting a ladder-like fabric into strips, so that the ends of the soft twisted yarns loosen and form pile-like fringe. The fringed chenillè yarns are woven in a gauze weave to make a fabric with pile on one or both sides. The fabric is used for furnishings, curtains, chair covers, cushion covers, etc. Some special finished chenillè fabrics are also produced for dresses and coats. The fabric does not crease and is very expensive. The yarn is used for embroidery, decorative fabrics, and tassel. Chenille yarns are made for knitting also.
  • Yarn resembling chenillè is produced also by electrostatic flocking an axial yarn treated with an adhesive.
    • Chenillè bedspread Tufted bedspread made of tufts of soft cotton yarns sewn into muslin sheeting, spaced close together in continuous lines and clipped on the face of the bedspread. The tufted lines give the effect of chenillè yarn, although no chenillè yarn is employed.
    Cheongsam  Oriental dress with a slip skirt and a mandarin collar.
    Cherry  Variable colour averaging a moderate red.
    Chessboard canvas Coarse embroidery canvas in white colour, woven in plain or honeycomb weave from cotton.  
    Chesterfield  Single-breasted or double-breasted semi fitted overcoat with velvet collar.
    Chest girth
    Synonym: High-bust girth    		 In body measurements, the circumference of the body over the shoulder blades, under the arms and across the upper chest.
    Chesting Finishing process employed on cotton fabrics to impart them a stringy and radiant effect.
    Chest measure Measure just under arms and across shoulder blades, making sure that tape is held level to the body.
    Chestnut  In textile parlance, a greyish to reddish brown colour.
    Chest piece Additional layer or layers of interlinings in the chest area of a garment, for strength and shape retention.
    Chevilled silk See under Chevillier
    Chevillier Finishing process, in which dyed silk yarns are subjected to twisting and winding under pressure to impart them softness and sheen.
    Cheviot fabric Popular lightweight sport coating tweed with a rough napped surface, made from Cheviot wool, usually woven in plain or twill weave. It is very rugged, and has an uneven surface. It does not hold a crease and sag with wear. The fabric resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse and would not shine because of the rough surface.  Though originally a fabric made from Cheviot wool only, now made also from blends, spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools. Used for coats, suits, and sportswear. It is also sold as tweed.
    See also Cheviot tweed
    Cheviot finish Finish, employed on woollen suiting fabrics. The application of this finish comprise light fulling, drying, shearing, and pressing of the fabric, during which enough precautions are taken to ensure that the pattern of weave is clearly shown through
    Cheviot tweed Wide range of fabrics, originally made from Cheviot wool in a variety of stripe, check and mixture styles. Now other fibres are also used. They have a fairly fine and clean appearance on the surface in the best qualities. Usually the fabrics are made to show the weave on the surface but sometimes they are made densely fibrous and milled to firm compactness. Used for hardwearing suits, sporting clothes etc.
    Cheviot wool Sturdy, hardwearing wool obtained from the Cheviot sheep from the Cheviot Hills of Scotland, of which the best qualities have a fairly soft handle. The fibres are even, lightweight, pure white colour and more open and longer than average fleeces.
    Chevron
  • Design, which incorporates, herringbone elements of zigzag stripes or joined V’s.
  • Herringbone prints in zigzag stripes.
    		•
    Chief value cotton
    Synonym:CVC    		 Certain fabric that has the majority of its value derived from cotton.
    Chiffon
  • Lightweight, sheer, translucent, airy, soft, diaphanous, open-mesh silk fabric made in plain weave with high twisted very fine filament yarns either as warp ends or weft picks or for both. It is made with an even or close to even number of threads per inch in the warp and weft. A very attractive type of chiffon is produced by weaving the silk gum condition, and degumming carried out as a post weave operation. Originally made of silk, today may be found in a wide variety of fibres, like viscose, polyester, nylon and other manufactured fibres. Sometimes made from spun cotton staples too. Although a thin and sheer fabric, chiffon is fairly strong. Has excellent hand-feel and drape. It wears well, but it may ‘give’ at the seams. Very light chiffon weighing 15 gm or even less per square metre is made. Because of the looseness of structure, yarns slide very easily and hence, it is considered a difficult fabric to make up. It is very strenuous to handle during sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has a slightly bumpy look. Usually not very expensive. As it is very limp, it is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc. Used for scarves, loose fitting garments, nightwear and for evening dresses on top of a dress of satin, taffeta, etc. Silk chiffon is the softest, polyester chiffon is slightly firmer and less transparent. Often chiffon may have a satin stripe or spots as decoration.
  • Term ‘chiffon’ is also used as a prefix to other fabric names to indicate very lightweight versions of these fabrics, e.g. chiffon batiste, chiffon crêpe, chiffon lace, chiffon net, chiffon taffeta, chiffon velour, chiffon velvet, etc
    		•
    Chiffon Transparent soft and light silk; can also be woven of cotton or man-made fibres.
    Chiffon (French for ‘rag’)
    Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics
    Weave: Plain
    Characteristics: Lightweight, sheer, transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc., because it is so limp. If made in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric, e.g. faille taffeta.
    Uses: After 5 wear, blouses, scarves.
    Chiffon crêpe Plain weave, lightweight, sheer crêpe fabric made of silk or man-made fibres with a soft undulated surface finish.  Used for dresses, lingerie, etc.
    Chiffonelle Lightweight, plain weave fabric made from very fine cotton yarns.
    Chiffonette Extremely delicate and wispy chiffon fabric.
    Chiffonized finish Finishemployed on velvet fabrics, made from silk or wool, to impart a dull surface to their glistening piles.
    Chiffon twist Hard twisted single yarn of silk or man-made fibres, meant for fabrics like chiffon, mousseline de soie, etc.
    Chiffon velvet Very light, soft velvet fabric characterised by short cut piles, but having little substance to it; the floaty and effective is very difficult to sew
    Chikankari Embroidery work, done with white cotton thread on fine white cotton fabric, like muslin. Lucknow in India is famous for its fine chikankari workmanship; a variety of techniques are practised.
    Chikan work See Chikankari
    Children's Designs suitable for the children's market.
    Child’s pudding         Small round hat for children made of cloth or straw, forming a shock absorber to protect them if they fell.
    Chimere  Loose sleeveless robe worn by Anglican bishops over the ‘rochet’.
    Chin Chinese silk brocade fabric.
    China clay
    Synonym:Kaolin; Chinese white    		 Commercial name used to describe hydrated aluminium silicate, a chemical available as a fine powder or white pulp. It is used for weighting of cotton fabrics. It is also an ingredient in many finishing and sizing formulations.
    China finish Finish applied on cotton fabrics to impart them a bright glossy look. The process comprises heavy sizing followed by calendaring.
    China grass See Ramie
    China silk
    Synonym: Jap Silk     		Thin, almost papery silk fabric, in plain weave and usually in plain colours. Originally a hand-woven fabric from China in bombyx mori silk. Very soft, slippery and extremely lightweight, but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristics of the fabric. Used mainly for lining and underlining of lightweight garments. Does not find much use in outer clothes, due to its insufficient weight and durability.
    China silk
    Fibre: Silk.
    Weave: Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bombyx mori. Very soft and extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric.
    Uses: Mostly for linings and underlinings, and could be used for blouses.
    China silk
    Plain weave silk of various weights. This silk is the "hand" or touch that many people identify as silk. There are various weights of China silk from light, used for linings and many "washable silks" with the wrinkled look, to heavy for shirts and dresses.
    Chinchilla cloth Thick double-faced fabric having a napped surface, made to imitate the chinchilla fur fabric. Usually made of wool, it is also made from cotton and some man-made fibres. The weaves usually employed are sateen or twill construction with extra picks for long floats. The fabric is napped and the long floats are worked into nubs and little curly balls by a special rubbing or chafing machine. A rather expensive fabric, it is characterised by the thick spongy feel. Fabrics are very warm and cosy. Made in medium and heavy weights, it finds usage mainly as suiting fabric. Dark shades in wool are most popular, particularly navy and black.
    Chinchilla fur Natural fibre of animal origin, obtained from a small rodent bred in captivity for its fur. The fur is soft, curly, bluish grey in colour with marks and shadings. Very rarely found now due to the rarity of the animal and subsequent high cost of the fur.
    Chinchilla fur fabric Fabric made from the rare and exceptional chinchilla fur; a rare rodent fur. Originally made in the Spanish town of Chinchilla and hence the name.
    Chiné Textiles that have a mottled pattern.
    Chine fabric General term used to describe a group of fabrics, having shadow print effects on it produced by printing the warp before weaving. In the finished fabric the design show through as a shadowy, misty delineation and the bright and dark colours appear subdued.   
    Chinese cotton Species of cotton fibre grown in China, of which the major part of the crop is made up by the variety of ‘gossypium herbaceum’. The staples are clean, rather whitish and curly, with an average fibre length of 13 to18mm. It is usually used in mixture with other qualities.
    Chinese suspension hooks Three very fine prongs in a plastic holder used by silk painters for stretching and holding the silk in place. The three prongs hook onto the silk and a rubber band is used to stretch between the plastic end and frame.
    Chinese white See China clay
    Chino
  • Originally a left hand twill cotton fabric made from combed two-ply yarns. The fabric was usually mercerised and vat dyed in ‘olive-dab’ colour and used for army uniforms. 
  • Though originally used exclusively for army uniforms chino has found popularity in the high fashion field. Now it comes as a sturdy, closely woven, medium weight, hardwearing fabric made from two-ply yarns of cotton or cotton blends, usually combed and mercerised, in plain or twill weave. A tightly woven, two-ply, right twist, 3x1, combed cotton twill is a popular chino construction for trousers; usually made available in white or dyed in khaki or tan colours. The fabric washes and wears extremely well with a minimum of care. Used for sportswear, summer suits and dresses and work wear.
    		•
    Chinoiserie Fabric designs, which have derived from or are imitations of traditional Chinese decorative motifs.
    Chintz Light to medium weight, closely woven, glazed fabric made in plain weave with hard-spun warp ends and coarse slack twist weft picks. The fabrics usually carry good quality multicolour floral print designs on a white or natural ground. The glazing, which ensures a polished look and also helps resisting dirt, is usually done by sizing followed by calendaring. Several types of glazing materials and processes are employed. While cellulose type chemicals impart a durable glaze, wax and starch glazes give only temporary glaze that will wash out. Usually made of cotton cotton-blends, this fabric is most commonly used for furnishing, curtains, loose covers, draperies, and only occasionally for dresses. Unglazed chintz is called ‘cretonne’
    Chintzing Weaving technique, in which the pattern is fashioned by extra weft colours. A large number of weft colours are introduced into the fabric by replacing one colour with another at intervals. No addition is made to the series of extra weft colours.
    Chip fibre In man-made textiles, staple fibres that are massed together as a unit and that maintain a single geometry or alignment
    Chirimen Japanese term describing a dull crêpe fabric made with a coarse yarn. Originally made of silk but now found in man-made filaments such as polyester.
    Chite Traditionally painted Indian linen fabric.
    Chiton  Basic garment of ancient Greece worn usually knee-length by men and full-length by women.
    Chlorination
  • Reaction on a textile material with chlorine. The chlorine may be in the form of a gas, or its solution in water or it may be obtained from a suitable compound.
  • See Dry chlorination; Wet chlorination
    		•
    Chlorinated wool Wool fibres that have been treated with chlorine to reduce its propensity for shrinkage and increase its ability to take dyes. Used for producing two colour effects in a single dye-bath and also in the preparation of wool for printing.
    Chlorine Greenish-yellow gaseous element widely used as a bleaching element. Available in various forms and compounds for bleaching cellulosic fibres. The chlorine may be in the form of the gas or in solution in water or it may be obtained from a suitable compound
    Chlorine bleach Bleach, which releases the hypochlorite ion in solution, e.g. sodium hypochlorite.
    Chlorine resistant finish Resin finish for fabrics, particularly to provide crease resistance or wrinkle resistance or wash and wear properties, which does not retain chlorine when exposed during laundering. If chlorine is retained, as is the case with most urea and melamine finishes, the heat of ironing turns the chlorine to hydrochloric acid which cause yellowing and weakening of the fabric.   
    Chlorine retention Adverse characteristic of many of the resins and finishes employed on textiles, of retaining varying amounts of chlorine from the bleaching agents used in laundering of the goods.  During ironing the heat releases the chlorine, which   will react with water to cause discoloration and degradation of the fabric.
    Chlorofibres
  • Generic term used to describe manufactured fibres composed of synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain more than 50 % by mass of chloroethene or 1,1-dichloroethene groups. Chlorofibres are often blended with other fibres such as acrylic, polyester, nylon or wool and are made into woven and knit fabrics. It being non-flammable, the fibre is also used as the backing for deep pile imitation fur fabrics. However, the term is also widely used to denote polyvinyl chloride fibres.
  • See also Polyvinylchloride
    		•
    Chocolate In textile parlance, a brownish grey colour.
    Chocked cocoon Silk cocoon in which the chrysalis has been killed.
    Choker  Collar or a necklace, worn closely about the throat or neck.
    Choli Traditional short, bodice-like breast garment, very popular among women in India since early times. The garment is worn in many styles; with back covering or without, fastened with strings or extended cloth-pieces, with shaped breast-pieces or flat, etc.
    Chopine Traditional shoe with a very high sole designed to enhance stature.
    Chopped weft
    Synonym: Cut weft    		 Weft picks that have been ruptured by the reed while being beaten up during weaving.
    Chrisom  White cloth or robe put on a person at baptism as a symbol of innocence.
    Chroma Relative intensity, saturation or purity of a colour, e.g. bright red, dull red, etc.
    Chromaticity Quality of colour expressed as a function of wavelength and purity. 
    Chromatic colours
  • Huecolours such as blue, yellow, red as opposed to the achromatic colours such as grey, slate, and white.
  • See also Achromatic colours
    • Chromatic dyeing
  • Process employed for dyeing of high-bulked yarns.
  • See also Muff dyeing
    • Chrome Oxidising agents like sodium dichromate or potassium dichromate employed in mordanting.
    Chrome dyes Group of mordant dyes capable of forming a chelate complex with a chromium ion. They are not as bright, but are faster than the acid dyes. Used extensively for men’s wear fabrics. 
    Chrome leather Leatherthat has been tanned with chromium salts. It is inexpensive and find usage mainly in the shoe industry.
    Chrome mordant process Method of dyeing, in which the textile material is mordanted with a solution of a chromium compound and subsequently dyed with a suitable chrome dye.  
    Chromium fluoride Chemical material usually employed as a mordant in the dyeing of wool.
    Chromophore Part in a molecular structure of an organic dye or pigment that is responsible for colour.
    Chromoscope Apparatusemployed for the demonstration the optical effects of colour.
    Chrysalis Form acquired by silkworms in the passive stage of development between worm and moth. The silkworm encloses itself in the cocoon and becomes an inert chrysalis or pupa. It may be detected in silk waste, especially in noils as dark brown fragments.
    Chukka  Ankle-length leather boot with two or three pairs of eyelets or a buckle and strap.
    Chunni See Duppatta
    Church embroidery See Ecclesiastical embroidery
    Churidar Traditional garment from India. A fitted pants with deliberate snugness around the calf and ankle with bangle-like gatherings or wrinkles and hooks for fastening. 
    Chysolite See under Asbestos
    Cicilia Damask dress fabric, made from silk, in satin weave and having characteristic floral designs. In the case of lower grades, cotton weft picks are employed.
    CI constitution number See Colour Index constitution number
    CIE special tristimulus values See under Colour measurement
    CIF Acronym for Cost, insurance and freight
    CI generic name
  • Allotment of colour index generic names to commercial colorants is done by the Colour Index Editorial Board. CI generic name is a classification name, which when allotted to a commercial preparation, allows that preparation to be uniquely identified within any Colour Index Application class. This enables the particular commercial preparation to be classified along with other preparations, whose essential colorant results form a single chemical reaction, or a series of reactions. Products obtained by physical admixture of essential colorants are excluded. The publishers of Colour Index International cautions the users that a listing therein of a commercial preparation is no guarantee of its acceptability for manufacturer or use in those countries having such legislation.The dyestuffs are first classified according to usage. Further they are subdivided depending on the hue (colour) of the dye. Thus, dyestuffs are grouped as acid, basic, direct, disperse, vat dyes, etc., and in each group they are subdivided as yellow, orange, red, violet, blue, green, brown and black. Dyestuffs of each colour from each usage class are given consecutive numbers. When different dyestuff manufacturers produce a dyestuff of a particular colour in a given usage class and having the same known structure (hence, a CI Constitution Number is assigned to the dyestuff), all these commercial dyes are given the same generic name. On the other hand, if, a number of dyestuffs of the same hue and tone (after dyeing on fibres) but the structure is not known in published literature, these are allotted five different CI generic names. These five different names are given to the five dyes of the respective manufacturers, even if the dye structure is the same. As long as the structure is not disclosed in the published literature, the dyestuffs have different CI generic names. When a research publication from a research organisation or from a university determines the structure of a series of commercial dyestuffs, by analytical and synthetic routes, and the results appear in a reputed journal, these are taken note of and they are assigned CI Constitution numbers depending on the chromophores present in them. This information is periodically published as Supplements to Colour Index International and at an appropriate time incorporated in the revised edition of Colour Index International. Colorants listed under a CI generic name whose serial number contains a colon differ slightly from those listed under the parent CI generic name. This slight difference is usually chemical, but may be physical in the case of certain pigments.
  • See also Colour index international; CI constitution number
    		•
    Cincture
  • Band of material around the waist that strengthens a skirt or trousers.
  • Girdle, belt; especially, a cord or sash worn around an ecclesiastical vestment, as an alb or religious habit.
    		•
    Cinereous  Term used to describe the colour of a grey tinged with black.
    Cinnamon  In textile parlance, a light yellowish brown colour.
    CI number See Colour index number
    Circlet Headdress: crown, tiara or a headband.
    Circle twisted
  • Term used to describe a type of core yarn produced on the spinning frame by feeding the yarn through the delivery rollers only, with simultaneous spinning of the staple yarn. Typical core component yarns are staple, elastomeric, flat or textured filament yarns.
  • See also Core yarn 
    • Circular bend Fabric defect, which manifests as a simultaneous multi-directional deformation of the fabric, in which one face of a flat specimen becomes concave and the other face becomes convex.
    Circular jersey Fabric produced on circular knitting machines
    Circular knit Term refers to weft knitted fabrics made on a circular needle-bed knitting machine, which produces fabric in tubular form. The fabric can be used in this form or can be shaped as required by shrinking, tightening, stretching, etc. or by cutting and sewing to produce a finished article. A circular knitting machine may be used to produce full width fabrics or narrow shaped components such as for hosiery. Common types include single or double-knits
    Circular knitting Term used to describe the process of making fabric or garments by knitting on a circular knitting machine in tubular form. There are many types of circular knitting, some of them being run-resistant, tuck stitch, ribbed, double knits, etc. Seamless hosiery also may be made on circular knitting machines.          
    Circular knitting machine Knitting machine, in which the needles are set radial or parallel in one or more circular beds. When used without qualification, the term generally refers to a weft-knitting machine of this type. Machines with diameters of less than 165mm are generally termed ‘small-diameter circular knitting machines’.  
    Circular loom Loom, in which the warp is set in a circle around a circular shuttle race. It is used mainly for weaving coarse fabrics like sacking.
    Circular shuttle box
    Synonym: Revolving shuttle box    		 In a loom, the cylinder situated at the end of the shuttle race, which carries two or more shuttles. It revolves so as to bring the shuttles to the level of the shuttle race, in turn as required, and change the shuttles according to the pattern and in automatic looms, when they become empty. Not used as widely as the rising and falling shuttle box systems. 
    Circular Web Knitted fabric in tubular form, which may be cut and sewed to make apparels.
    Circular windows Term used in merchandising parlance to describe a non-traditional window used to display merchandise. Usually used to individualize the image of a retailer.
    Ciré fabric Fabric that has been subjected to ciré finish; lightweight performance fabric with a shiny surface made from synthetic fibres for use in outerwear.
    Ciré finish Combination finish, which imparts a patent leather-like high lustre, on the surface of the fabric, by hot friction calendering. While fabrics made from thermoplastic fibres like nylon or polyester are finished by calendering with heat and pressure only, other fabrics like viscose or silks are calendered with wax or other compounds. The ciréd fabric is highly lustrous and takes on the fashionable ‘wet look’. The name derived from the French word ciré, which means wax and polish.
    Ciselé velvet Velvet fabric, having a distinctive pattern formed by contrasting cut and uncut loops of yarn; the principal feature is that the patterns are produced by cutting only some of the piles, leaving the rest uncut.
    Citric acid Substitute for acetic acid and vinegar in acid dye recipes. Citric acid can be substituted for acetic acid in equal measure. Citric acid is often preferred over vinegar and acetic acid because it imparts no sour smell during dyeing.
    Cladding Covering material that is applied to the head or buck of a pressing machine or under-pressing machine.
    Claret  In textile parlance a dark purplish red colour.
    Classified garment defects See Garment defects, classified
    Classing
  • Method of separating whole fleeces into different classes before being baled and sold.
  • See Sorting
    		•
    Clay
  • Class of silicate and aluminosilicate minerals with sheet-like structures that have enormous surface areas that can absorb large amounts of water.
  • See Tailor’s chalk
    		•
    Clean cut Cut made in a woven fabric, where two adjacent ends or two adjacent picks interlace in an exactly opposite order to each other, like in a herringbone.
    Clean dry mass Mass of textile fibre free from moisture and other non-fibrous matters.
    Clean-finish seam-finish
    Synonym: Turned; Stitched seam-finish     		Seam finish done on the raw edges of the seam allowances of a plain seam, in which the raw seam allowance is folded under and edge and stitched. A clean-finish seam-finish is made by (a) turning under the raw edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm and (b) stitching close to the folded edge. It may be helpful on curved areas or some fabrics, to place a row of stitching 3 to 6 mm from the raw edge to serve as a guide for turning.
    Cleaning agent Chemical compound or formulation of several chemical compounds, which loosen, disperse, dissolve, or emulsify soil to facilitate its removal by mechanical action. 
    Cleanness
  • In a textile material, the absence of change in appearance due to soil, specifically the degree to which the specimen approaches the original clean, unsoiled, condition. Cleanness is independent of changes of physical structure, which may be present because of exposure to traffic or action of cleaning procedures.
  • See also Soil affinity
    		•
    Clean wool Term used sometimes to describe scoured wool.
    Clear fibre
  • Man-made fibres, the natural lustre of which has not been reduced, i.e. absence of any delustrant in the fibre.
  • See also Delustred fibre; Bright fibre
    • Clear finish Face finish, mainly used on wool and worsted fabrics and those fabrics that have some quantity of wool in them. The clear finish process includes shearing and singeing treatments. The surface of the fabric is made relatively free from protruding fibres, fuzz or nap, consequently rendering the weave and the colours of the constituent yarns clear, distinct, and sharp. While the shearing and singeing treatments are employed to produce a clean finish, the fulling and napping treatments tend to develop an opposite effect of covering up the weave and yarns in the fabric surface.
    Clearing
  • In yarns, the operation to remove flaws and faults in a yarn.
  • In fabrics either dyed or printed, the removal of surplus colorant, which, if allowed to remain, would mar the appearance of the quality of the textile.
  • Process of removal of surplus colorant, from dyed or printed fabric, which if allowed to remain, would spoil the appearance and quality of the fabric.
  • Practice of employing bleaching agents and/or other ingredients to enhance the whiteness of white goods or brightness of dyed goods.
  • See also Reduction clearing  
    • Clearing yarn Process of removing defects and imperfections from the yarn.
    Clear resist Colourless or clear water based resist.
    Clear wool
    Synonym: Free wool    		 Wool or worsted fibres that are free from foreign material and having no defects.
    Clem Very small dart, in a garment made by sewing, not by cutting.
    Clerical collar  Narrow upright white collar worn buttoned at the back of the neck by members of the clergy.
    Clevyl Trade name for a range of flame resistant fabrics made from PVC chlorofibre, characterised by their exceptional safety and also because of the wide range of weaves and effects that are possible. Used for furnishings in public buildings, offices, etc.
    Clicking top sliver See Feather-edged sliver
    Client Modelling term used to describe any person that retains the services of a model.
    Cling See Fibre cohesion
    Clip
  • Yield of wool from a single shearing of sheep in one season.
  • Yield of wool in one season.
  • See also Clips
    		•
    Clip-cone two-for-one twisting See under Two-for-one twisting
    Clip dot
    Synonym: Clip spot    		 Ornamental embroidery design effect, created in woven fabric by the use of extra weft picks, which are woven into the fabric at certain spots at regular intervals and then allowed to float over the fabric to the next spot. The floating threads are later trimmed but often are allowed to protrude from the surface of the fabric as part of the novelty effect.
    Clip mark
    Synonym: Centring mark; Stenter mark; Tenter mark
  • Fabric defect, which manifests as visible deformation of shift marks along the edges or body of the fabric, caused by unduly strained fabric at the point where the clip or pin has held fabric on the stenter frame.
  • See also Pin mark
    		•
    Clippings Waste pieces in cutting room, which are often sent for recycling.
    Clips Threads used for repeat motifs, which are floated over the surface of the lace between motifs. Subsequently they are clipped off during the finishing of the lace.
    See also Clip
    Clip spot See Clip dot
    Clip-spot weave Figured fabric weave in which small-detached spots of extra warp or weft yarn are used as decorations. The floating material between the spots is clipped off or sheared in finishing.
    Clo
    Synonym: Intrinsic clo    		 Unit of thermal resistance defined as the insulation required for keeping a resting man (producing heat at the rate of 58 W/m2) comfortable in an environment at 21°C., air movement 0.1 m/s, or roughly the insulation value of typical indoor clothing.
    Cloak Loose outer garment.
    Cloaking Heavyweight fabric, like cheviot, chinchilla, covert, kersey etc, usually used for coats and cloaks.
    Cloche  Women's small closefitting hat, usually with deep rounded crown and very narrow brim.
    Clodhopper  Large heavy work shoe or boot.
    Clog  Shoe, sandal, or overshoe having a thick typically wooden sole.
    Cloqué Soft compound or double fabric, having good drape and a figured blister effect on the surface, brought about by the usage of yarns of different characters or twists, which respond in different ways to finishing treatments. When two yarns of uneven shrinkage potentials are woven together and then allowed to relax, one yarn shrinks more than the other and the excess material is left to form a design. The raised figures may be in regular or irregular lines. Originally made from silk and later from art silk. Now produced mainly from acetate and polyester yarns, the advantage of this development being the blistering is permanent and do not crease. Used for evening and cocktail wear, some millinery, etc.
    Closed-face fabric Term used to describe a face or shell fabric of closed construction so that no open-face areas appear.
    Closed loop Term used to describe, in both weft-knitting and warp-knitting, to describe a loop closed at the base, i.e. the component thread crosses over itself in the construction of the loop.  
    Graphic
    Closed shedding     		Method of shedding in which all warp threads are brought to the same level after the insertion of each pick of weft. There are two main types: ‘bottom-closed shedding’ and ‘centre-closed shedding’ (the terms ‘bottom’ and ‘centre’ indicate the position of the warp threads when at rest). 
    Closed stitch Warp knit stitch in which wings are not kept in the knit.
    Closed toe knitting Technique employed in hosiery knitting machines for closing the toe on the machine, which obviates the need for subsequent seaming operations.
    Closeout Merchandise that is being sold below original wholesale cost; reason can be overstock, shelf pull or discontinued merchandise.
    Close stitch Row of short close stitches in needlepoint lace. 
    Closing In garment manufacture, the operation of joining side seams and/or matching the lining to the forepart.
    Closing fabric Group of low count cotton fabrics that have been sized to fill in the open spaces between warp and filling yarns. Usually followed by calendering to flatten the yarn and thus make a compact cloth. 
    Cloth
  • Generic term embracing most textile fabrics.
  • Used in a broader sense, it is synonymous with the terms: fabric, material and goods. It is anything made from a raw material that has been constructed by weaving, knitting, plaiting, braiding, or needling.
  • Piece of textile fabric suitable for a specified use.
    • Clothes  All cloth articles of personal and household use that can be washed.
    Clotheshorse  
  • Frame on which to hang clothes. 
  • Term is sometimes used to describe a conspicuously dressy person.
    		•
    Clothesline Corded yarn or rope, made from cotton, polyester, nylon, or other fibres, used for hanging laundered clothes to dry. 
    Clothesmoth  Any of several small yellowish or buff-coloured moths (e.g. ‘tinea pellionella’ and ‘tineola bisselliella’ of the family ‘tineidae’) whose larvae eat wool, fur or feathers.
    Clothes pin   Forked piece of wood or plastic or a small spring clamp used for fastening clothes on a clothesline.
    Clothier  Person or company who makes or sells clothing. 
    Clothing See Apparel
    Clothing wool
    Synonym: Apparel wool; Carding wool    		 Short staple wools suitable only for carded yarn, as they are not long enough to be subjected to combing. They usually have very good felting properties and are used in the manufacture of woollens. 
    Cloth of gold Rich medieval fabric made wholly of gold threads. 
    Cloth of silver Fabric, usually filmy, made wholly or partly of silver threads. 
    Cloth roller Roller in a weaving machine onto which woven fabric is wound after passing from the take-over roller.
    Cloth room Area in a mill, where goods are taken after weaving for inspection and repair. Inspectors note and mark all defects and blemishes large or small with chalk or stickers. If need be, brushing, shearing, grading, burling, specking, mending are performed to correct quality of the fabric. These are all dry finishing treatments. The fabric is now ready for the finishing room where all wet finishing treatments are performed.
    Cloth stitch Stitch employed in bobbin lace in which the threads are interlaced as in weaving.
    Cloth wheel Wheel used for buffing or polishing, in which layers of fabrics are charged with abrasive or polishing material. 
    Clothy appearance Fabric that shows the threads very clearly on the face.
    Clothy hand Fabric that is firm, but supple and has body.
    Clotted wools Group of fabrics having a fancy texture made of bulky, uneven wool yarns. 
    Cloudiness
  • Defect in webs and slivers. Presence of areas of non-uniform densities in webs and slivers. 
  • Dyeing defect. Presence at random of weakly defined uneven dyeing.  
  • Bleaching defect. Presence of opaque patches, normally visible only in transmitted light, caused by residues remaining after bleaching. 
    • Cloud yarn Fancy yarn made from two threads of different colours in such a manner that each thread alternately forms the base and cover to ‘cloud’ the opposing thread. It is made by alternate fast and slow deliveries from two pairs of rollers. 
    Cloudy goods Group of defective fabrics that are off-shade, because of uneven dyeing or due to faulty finishing of the goods.
    See also Mottled fabric
    Cluny lace Close, heavy bobbin lace made from thick yarns of cotton or linen, mostly in geometric patterns. Its heaviness limits its use to collar trims and decorations in apparels, but it is much in demand for mats, doilies and tableware.
    Clutch  See Clutch bag
    Clutch bag  Women's small handbag, usually strapless.
    CM Acronym for Carboxymethylated Cotton
    CMC Acronym for Carboxymethylcellulose
    CMT Acronym for Cut, make and trim
    CMYK
    Synonym: Four colour process    		 Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black; the colours used when printing process colour.  These are special pigment colours of ink that are very transparent. CMYK is used where a photo realistic look and many colours are required.  The blending of these 4 primary colours can generate the effect of several other colours.
    Coach lace See Carriage lace
    Coaches jacket Style of jacket comparable to a basic windbreaker, with fold-over collar and slash pockets.
    Coagulation bath Liquid chemical bath, used in wet spinning of viscose and acrylic fibre manufacturing, for hardening strands into solid fibres after extrusion through a spinneret.  
    Coalesced filaments  Filaments wedged together deliberately or accidentally during the extrusion process. 
    Coal tar dyes Synthetic dyes made from coal tar. The dye intermediates developed form coal tar crudes, are by further chemical combinations, converted in to coal tar dyes. Among natural ? dyes, these are superior in colour range, purity, fastness and ease of application.
    Coarse The term sometimes used to refer thick yarns.
    Coarse end
    Synonym: Heavy end; Coarse thread    		 Fabric defect, which manifests as warp ends that are larger in diameter than normal.
    Coarse filling bar
    Synonym: Set mark; Heavy place    		 Fabric defect, which manifests as weft-wise bar either across the full width of the cloth or a portion of it, containing picks of larger diameter than normally being used in the fabric or containing more than the normal number of picks.
    Coarse pick Weft pick, which is overly flawed, that it only be detrimental to the final fabric.
    Coarse thread See Coarse end
    Coat Outer garment, which covers at least the upper half of the body, has sleeves and a front opening, and is usually worn over another garment, such as a shirt or dress.
    Coat-dress  Dress styled like a coat usually with a front buttoning from neckline to hemline.
    Coated cotton Soft cotton shower-proof cloth, plain or printed, with a thin coating of polyurethane. Used for shorts, anoraks, raincoats, jackets, etc.
    Coated fabric Flexible material composed of a textile fabric and an adherent polymeric material applied to one or both surfaces, to make them longer lasting, or impervious to water or other liquids. The uses are numerous; coated fabrics include oilcloth, imitation leathers etc. Now, many sophisticated coated fabrics are available.
    Coat form Headless and usually armless male form, which ends above the hips and can be raised or lowered on an adjustable rod. The form will show coats, jackets or sweaters. Most are flat-fronted, without chest muscle definition, and the arms, when used, are either bendable rods or sleeve pads.
    Coating Finishing process, in which, semi liquid polymeric products like rubber, acrylic, etc. or wax, oil, pyroxylin, melamines, varnishes, plastics, lacquer or plastic resins like polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene or polyurethane are coated on the back of the fabrics. After drying and curing, it forms a bond with the fabric. The application methods are many like dipping, spraying, brushing, impregnating, knife coating or calendaring with pressure. Coating is applied on the fabric, to make it, water repellent or waterproof but may also be done to simply alter the hand or appearance of the fabric.
    Coating flock Very short fibres, obtained by reducing textile fibres to fragments by cutting, tearing, or grinding and used for application to yarn, fabric, paper, wood, metal, or wall surfaces prepared with an adhesive.
    Coatings Fabrics especially suitable for coats.
    Coat of mail  Garment of metal scales or chain mail worn as armour.
    Cobalt blue  In textile parlance, a strong greenish blue colour.
    Cobble Operation of correcting a defectively processed fabric.
    Cobbler Defectively dyed or finished fabric returned for correction.
    Cobwebbing
    Synonym: Stitching; Crossing; Webbing    		 Winding defect, which manifests as threads layering in a straight line across the end of a package, caused by the yarn slipping beyond the normal extremity of the traverse during winding. Cobwebbing may result in yarn breaks during unwinding.
    Cochineal Natural dye of brilliant red colour obtained from female cochineal insects
    Cockade Ribbon bow deriving from the tie attaching the brim of a cocked hat. Originally decorative, it was also used as political identity.
    Cocked hat Traditional hat, which is styled with the brim turned up.
    Cockle Fabric defect, which manifests as a wrinkled appearance of the fabric, in which non-uniform relaxation or shrinkage has occurred. The defect may occur from the deviations in the tension of the ends or picks at the time of weaving, from the variations in the degree of stretch imposed on the yarn during earlier processes, or from disparities in the contraction of two or more yarns used accidentally in the fabric. The defect may be distributed over a large area of fabric or may be confined to isolated stripes, bars, or streaks. 
    Cockled yarn
  • Isolated loops of fibres protruding from the yarn surface owing to the relaxation of adjacent fibres that have previously been stretched during processing.
  • If not intended, it is a defect. 
    • Cockling   Irregular surface effect in knitted fabric, caused by loop distortion. If not intended it is an effect and not intended it is a defect. 
    Cocoa  In textile parlance, a medium brown colour.
    Coconut fibre Coarse, long fibres obtained from the coconut. Used for coir yarn, brushes, etc.  
    Cocoon Egg-shaped casing of silk spun by silkworm to protect itself as a chrysalis.  
    Cocoon strippings
    Synonym: Blaze; Keba    		 First threads secreted by the silkworm when it finds a place to form its cocoon.
    Cocoon foible Weak cocoon, larger but less dense than a normal cocoon. They are reeled separately to avoid entanglement.
    Coefficient of friction ­ Ratio of the force required for accomplishing this relative motion to the force to the force pressing two bodies together.
    ­ See also Friction
    Coefficient of twist Measure of the level of twist in yarn, determined by the multiplication of the turns per unit length by the square root of the linear density on a direct system, or the division of the turns per unit length by the square root of the count on an indirect system.
    Coefficient of variation
    Acronym: CV    		 Measure of the dispersion of observed values equal to the standard deviation for the values divided by the average of the values; may be expressed as a percentage of the average CV%
    Coefficient of Variation Unevenness; CV %
    In textiles, the standard deviation of the linear densities over which unevenness is measured, expressed as a percentage of the average linear density for the total length within which unevenness is measured.
    See also Unevenness; Mean deviation unevenness U %
    Cohesion
  • When the particles of a substance are bonded throughout its mass.
  • See Fibre cohesion
    • Cohesive force Force required to overcome fibre cohesion as the strand is being reduced in linear density in a textile strand.
    Cohesive sett Volatile sett, which is removable when the sett material is immersed in water.
    Coif Traditional close-fitting head covering, worn exclusively by women.
    Coiffure Women's hairstyle???
    Get from the net.
    Coil Configuration assigned to a yarn, like polyester, nylon, to make it stretchable. 
    Coiler Delivery device that deposits a sliver into a cylindrical can in the form of helixes so as to permit easy withdrawal with the minimum of fibre disturbance
    Coin dots Pattern comprising big circular dots.
    Coir Versatile natural fibre extracted from mesocarp tissue, or husk of the coconut fruit. The husk contains 20% to 30% fibre of varying length. The long fibres are removed by grinding the husk and are used for yarn, ropes, home furnishings, carpets, rugs, door mats, agricultural applications, etc.
    Coarse, reddish-brown-buff coloured seed fibre obtained from the husk of the coconut, the fruit of the palm ‘cocas nucifera’. Used mainly for ropes, carpets, doormats etc. There are three types of coir fibre. The longest and finest, which is usually obtained from the unripe fruit, is spun into yarn for making mats and ropes; a coarser fibre known as bristle fibre, is used for brushes, door mats; and the shorter fibres are used for filling mattresses and upholstery, etc.
    Cold-crack temperature Temperature, below which the coating of a coated fabric and/or the base fabric cracks when the folded fabric is cooled under specified conditions.
    Cold drawing
  • Process of drawing of synthetic filaments or films without the intentional application of external heat.
  • Process of free drawing of filaments or films at a neck is also referred to as cold drawing even though this may be carried out in a heated environment.
    		•
    Cold processing See Cramping
    Cold-water shrinking Shrinking process employed on woollen fabrics to remove residual shrinkage; the fabric is immersed in cold water and suspended in air to dry.  
    Collar
  • Neckband, upright or turned over on a coat, dress, shirt, etc. A band of lining, lace or other material, which completes the upper part of a garment around the neck.
  • Band, strip, or chain worn around the neck; a short necklace; clerical collar.
    		•
    Collar canvas
  • Open weave, plain dark brown canvas, best made of linen, but sometimes cotton. It is very stiff and is used cut on the cross in case of wide ones and cut on the straight in case narrower ones, to interface coat and jacket collars. Does not fray.
  • See also Linen canvas
    • Collarette Trim around the neck of a T-shirt or sweatshirt
    Collar stays Thin strips of plastic material inserted into a collar to stabilise collar points.
    Colloid Heterogeneous mixture in which solute-like particles do not settle out.
    Color See Colour
    Colorant Material, which is applied to a substrate for the express purpose of changing the transmittance or reflectance of visible light. Dyes, pigments, tints, and optical brighteners are examples of colorants.
    olorant staining
  • Unintended pickup of colorant by a substrate due to exposure to a coloured or contaminated liquid medium, or due to direct contact with dyed or pigmented material, from which colorant transfers by sublimation or mechanical action as in crocking.
  • See also Colour staining
    • Colorimeter
  • Apparatus used for determining the depth of colour in a liquid by comparing with a standard liquid of the same tint. 
  • Appliance for ascertaining and characterising colours with reference either to other colours or to certain complex stimuli. 
    • Colorimetric system See under Colour measurement
    Colour
    Synonym: Color    		 When a beam of sunlight passes through a prism it is separated into a spectrum of seven easily discernible colours, which are violet, blue, blue-green, green, yellow, orange and red.
    Table
  • The phenomenon of colour may be defined as the sensation created in the brain of the beholder, by the message stimulated by the impact of radiation of a particular wavelength on the nerves in the eye. Materials are coloured because they reflect certain of the wavelengths of the white light, which falls upon them, and absorb others. In order to give a complete description of a colour, three attributes of colour are to be defined. The first is ‘hue’, which describes the kind of colour, namely, whether it is a red, an orange, a green, a yellow or a blue; the second attribute ‘saturation’, which is an expression of the portion of the dominant spectral wavelength and the third attribute is ‘luminous flux’, which represent the quantity of light reflected or emitted per unit area of the surface. To an observer, colours of the same hue and saturation appear different if their luminous fluxes are not the same. 
  • See also Primary colours; Secondary colours; Tertiary colours
    • Colour abrasion
    Synonym: Frosting    		 Changes of colour in localized areas of a garment due to differential wear of unlike fibres or dye failure; often manifests in cross-dye shades of blends where durable press treatments are applied.
    Colour-and-weave effect Effect developed in a woven fabric, by a small-group colour patterning of warp and/or weft.  The blending of the warp and weft floats of the constituent colours produce a distinctive effect which renders the weave effect virtually indistinguishable and often the colour order of the threads is not apparent. 
    Colour-bleeding
    Synonym: Bleeding
  • Dyeing defect, which manifests as loss of colour from a dyed textile substrate when in contact with water, dry-cleaning solvent, or condensed vapours, or similar liquid medium with consequent colouring of the liquid medium. 
  • Property of bleeding is sometimes made use of innovatively as in the case of ‘bleeding Madras’.
    		•
    Colour-blend Yarn having a blended effect, produced by the technique of combining two different coloured fine yarns with one heavy white yarn. The diffusion of light creates a blended effect.
    Colour block Print-block, usually of wood, in-filled with felt to facilitate the printing of bigger areas of colour with as little unevenness as possible
    Colour box See Colour trough 
    Colour change In textile testing, change in colour of any kind whether in lightness, hue or chroma, or any combination of these, discernible by comparing the test specimen with a corresponding untested specimen.
    Colour constancy Capability of a coloured article to give the same general colour impression when viewed under different illuminants, the viewer having been chromatically adapted in each case. The most common comparison is made between the impression under artificial light, e.g. tungsten filament, and that under daylight.
    Colour discharge printing See Discharge style printing
    Colour Doctor See Doctor
    Coloured goods Broad term for all dyed and printed fabrics as distinguished from white or bleached fabrics. 
    Colourfast Term used to describe fabrics of sufficient colour retention so that no noticeable change in shade takes place during the ‘normal’ life of the garment. Virtually all textile dyes are rated according to their colour life span.
    Colour fastness Term used to describe the property or ability of a dyed textile material, by virtue of which, it resists fading or bleeding due to washing, exposure to sunlight, gas or rubbing and other environmental conditions. In other words, the resistance of a textile material to change in any of its colour characteristics, to transfer its colorants to adjacent materials, or both, as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that might be encountered during the processing, testing, storage or use of the material. 
    Colour fastness to light Resistance of a textile material to change in its colour characteristics as a result of the exposure of the material to sunlight or an artificial light source. 
    Colour grading The act of identifying a dyed or printed textile material specimen by a colour grade or colour score that is specific to the colour and the material graded. The following terms are used for qualitative description of colour changes: R = redder; Y = yellower; Bl = bluer, G =greener; S = stronger; W = weaker; Br = brighter; D = duller etc.
    Colour Index Internationally approved official reference publication containing colorant classifications grouped by recognized usage in order of spectral hue, chemical structure and commercial product name. Cross-referencing information is facilitated by the unique ‘colour index number’. 
    Colour index international
  • Very useful compilation of important information, on the numerous of commercial dyestuffs made in the world by major dyestuff manufacturers in various countries, regularly brought out jointly by the Society of Dyers and Colourists and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.  In this, the dyestuffs are classified based on their chemical structure and each dyestuff is given a C.I. Constitution Number. They are also classified according to the application or usage, in which they are given a C.I. Generic Name, along with its colour (hue).
  • See also Colour index constitution number; Colour index generic name
    		•
    Colour index generic name See CI generic name
    Colour index number See under Colour index
    Colour intensity See Colour saturation
    Colourist Person experienced in developing colour formulas, evaluating samples for colour, and producing colour samples to meet standards.
    Colour lake Insoluble combination of mordant and a dyestuff that has been fixed on the fibre, such as tannin with basic dyes on cotton, or chrome dyes with a mordant on wool.
    Colour management  Ensuring that the colours developed by a company's design team are successfully reproduced on the garments that wind up on the retail floor.
    Colour matching Art and technique of replicating a colour upon comparable or different materials. The matchings may be done on fibre, yarn or cloth.
    Colour measurement There are various systems for measuring colours:
  • Colorimetric System: Quantitative system of colour specification based on scales derived from either additive or subtractive colour mixture.
  • Trichromatic System: System of colour specification based on the possibility of matching a colour stimulus by the additive mixture of three suitably chosen reference stimuli.
  • Special Tristimulus Values: Tristimulus values, on any given trichromatic system, of the monochromatic components of an equi-energy spectrum. The set of spectral tristimulus values defines the ‘colour-matching functions’ or ‘colour matching-curves’.
  • CIE special Tristimulus Values: Colour characterised numerically by tristimulus values of the spectral components of an equi-energy spectrum in the CIE (XYZ) system.
    		•
    Colour out Printing defect, considered major. The effect manifests as a lighter or patchy print, as a result of the colour running low in the reservoir on the printing machine.
    Colour properties There are three principal properties of colour: hue or tone, value and chroma. Hue is the actual colour, which set apart a colour from others, e.g. red, yellow, blue, etc. Value is the luminosity or lightness or darkness. Chroma is the relative intensity, saturation or purity, e.g. bright blue, dull blue, etc. 
    Colour quality Specification of colours in terms of both hue and saturation, but not luminance.
    Colour remover Product that removes colour or dye, like thiourea dioxide, discharge paste or bleach. These are usually specific to what type of dye it removes and can sometimes be used to fix mistakes or for wonderful discharge effects as in Shibori.
    Colour retention How well a paint keeps its original colour. Usual threats to colour retention are exposure to ultraviolet radiation and abrasion by wear or repeated cleaning.
    Colour saturation Synonym: Colour intensity Measure of the strength or purity of a colour. The nearness of a colour in purity to the associated spectral colour. Purity increases with increasing concentration of dye on the fibre.
    Colour schemes
  • Monochromatic, or one-colour harmony: the use of one colour in varying degrees of intensity and value such as light blue.
  • Harmony: an agreeable combination of colours, all related to one another on the colour scale.
  • Complementary Harmony: a pleasing combination of complementary colours. Today creative fashion stylists follow no rules and are limited only by their own creativity in the use of colour. Yesterday’s colour rules no longer apply in today's world of fashion
    		•
    Colour smear Printing defect caused by smearing of colour during printing; considered major or minor depending of its intensity.
    Colour staining
  • A fabric defect, which manifests as undesired pickup of colour by a fabric, when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid medium that contains dyestuffs, or colouring material not intended for colouring the fabric, or by direct contact with other dyed material from which colour is transferred by bleeding or sublimation.
  • See also Colorant staining
    		•
    Colour strippers Group of chemicals that extract or take out colour (dyestuffs) from dyed or printed textile materials to correct the colour defects in the original dyeing, to lighten the shade of the original dyeing and to remove or take out colour completely.
    Colour sublimation Property of some dyestuffs to sublime when subjected to high temperature.
    See also Sublimation; Sublimation Printing; Thermofix
    Colour terms ……………………………………………………………………………………
    Colour tone Term used to describe, the intensity value of a colour, i.e. hue, shade, or degree (deep tone) of any colour.
    Colour trough Synonym: Colour box Container  for colour, used in engraved roller or surface roller printing in which the furnishing brush or roller rotates.
    Colour value Synonym: Tinctorial value The term used to describe, the colour yield of a colorant, compared with a standard of equal cost. It is usually determined by comparing the cost of coloration at equal visual strength. Comparisons are normally made between products of similar hue and properties.
    Colourways
  • In fabrics, rendering of design or printed fabric in a set of colours differing from the original. Fabrics are usually made in a set of at least four colourways.
  • In printing, alternative colouring of design on fabric. Because it is usual to have an overlap or ‘allowance’ on paler colours where these print next to deeper shades, it is essential for an alternative colourway to retain the tone relationship, i.e. darker remains darker, although the distance between the tones can be changed . 
    		•
    Colour wheel Tool that lets an artist or technician visualize the theory of how different colours relate to each other when mixed. The colour wheel is a circle based on the primary colours red/yellow/blue; or magenta/ yellow /cyan. Most have secondary and tertiary colours with all the colours tinted -colour + white- and shaded colour + black.
    Colour yield
    Synonym: Tinctorial yield    		 Tool that lets an artist or technician visualize the theory of how different colours relate to each other when mixed. The colour wheel is a circle based on the primary colours red/yellow/blue; or magenta/ yellow /cyan. Most have secondary and tertiary colours with all the colours tinted -colour + white- and shaded colour + black.
    Colour yield
    Synonym: Tinctorial yield    		 Depth of colour obtained when a standard weight of colorant is applied to a substrate under specified conditions.
    Column skirt
    Synonym: Straight skirt; Pencil skirt    		 Skirt having straight line with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline.
    Comb Comb-like device used to separate yarns in a warp, during weaving.
    Comeback wool Wool obtained by crossing two breeds of sheep and then crossing the resultant half-bred with one of the original breeds.
    Combed cotton Cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibres and straighten or arrange longer fibres in parallel order resulting in a smooth yarn used in finer garments.
    Combed yarn    Yarn made from fibres that have been carded and combed in the manufacturing process. The combed yarn is more even, compact and has lesser projecting fibres and can be spun into finer counts than carded yarns.   
    Comber
    Synonym: Combing machine     		Machine employed for the combing operation in the manufacture of yarn.
    Comber web Film of fibres produced by a combing machine.
    Combination fabric Fabric that contains two or more different types of fibres. However, these differ from blends, in that any one single yarn in a combination fabric is composed of only one fibre type.
    Combination lace Furnishing lace, having openwork effects on it, created in by nipping two or more pillars or warps together to make a hole wider than a normal wale. 
    Combination stitch Combination of backstitch and two or more running stitches, used when more strength is required than can be provided by a running stitch.
    Combination twill
    Synonym: Combined twill    		 Twill weave fabric in which two regular twills are merged in one weave.
    Combination weave Fabric made from a combination of two or more different weaves.
    Combination yarn
  • Yarn in which there are dissimilar component yarns especially when these are of fibre and filaments.Plied yarn twisted from single yarns of different fibres, e.g. silk, and rayon, or rayon and acetate.
  • See also Blended yarn; Self-blended yarn
    		•
    Combined fabric Fabric comprising of two or more layers, at least one of which is a textile fabric, bonded closely together by means of an added adhesive, or by the adhesive properties of one or more of the component layers.
    Combined rope Rope, in which the central strands are made of steel and the outer portions of each strand are made from fibrous material.
    Combined twill See Combination twill
    Combing Operation that is part of the manufacturing process of cotton and other staple yarns. It is an additional step beyond carding in both cotton and worsted yarn manufacture. The process involves straightening and parallelizing of fibres in the sliver and removal of undesirable short fibres (usually less than 1”) and foreign matter by using a comb or combs assisted by brushes and rollers, before spinning into yarn. Combed yarns are much superior to carded yarns; they are finer, cleaner, stronger and more even and compact, having much less projecting fibres.
    Combing machine See Comber
    Combing wool Strong wool fibre, strictly of combing length, usually 50 mm or more.
    Combining Process of laminating two or more fabrics together or fabric with materials like paper, leather, foam rubber, etc. by bonding with adhesive materials for use in footwear, luggage, belt, brassiere, etc.
    Cambrian tweed Group of rough fabrics, made from the robust type sheep wools. The weave types most commonly used are plain, hopsack, or herringbone and the yarns used are dyed or more attractively, left in their natural colours of white, grey and black and mixed together. Used for hardwearing clothes such as men’s suits, sports jackets, and skirts. The coarser yarn is made into rugs.
    Cambric Traditional lightweight, firm, closely woven, plain weave fabric, heavier than lawn, finished with size and/or calendered to give a slight shine on the right side. Usually made in cotton and linen and often in plain colours.  Originally made in Cambrai, France, hence the name. Popular constructions are: warp of 2/80s at 96 ends per inch and 2/80s to 2/120s at about 80 to 144 picks per inch. It can give a rather stiff, bright finished cloth and is used for summer dresses or with a soft finish for dress linings. A coarser construction in sized cotton is used for embroidery purposes.
    Cambric finish Finishing process comprising singeing and calendaring operations, which imparts a firm, bright, finish on plain or back filled fabrics.
    Camel In textile parlance, fawn or light yellowish brown colour.
    Camel cloth Camel-coloured coating fabrichaving soft feel and small piles. Usually made from wool, wool and acrylic, or other mixtures. They are cheap imitations of real camel hair, but some are of very good quality and expensive too. Often made as a reversible cloth also with cream colour on the other side. Used for coatings, scarves, and rugs.
    Camel Hair A natural fibre of animal origin obtained from the hair of the camel, camelus bactrianus, a two-humped back species. The fine undercoat hair is has very wool-like softness and gives warmth without weight. The lengths of hairs vary in length from 25 to 125mm. The outer beard hairs, which are very coarse and tough, have lengths up to 375mm. The fine hairs are lightweight, lustrous and soft. The characteristic colours, range from a light tan to a brownish-black. Usually left its natural tones but can be dyed-usually navy and some red. It has quite a long nap and is warm. Better grades are expensive. Sometimes blended with wool to reduce the cost and increase the wear. All wool camel hair is not as lustrous and is spongy. Can have either a rich nap or a flat finish. Wears fairly well, particularly if blended. They withstand dampness and moisture. Used for suits, sweaters, some blankets and some very expensive oriental rugs. It is also used in fine overcoating and hosiery.
    Camelot An imitation of camlet fabric, made from cotton and wool.
    Camelot Baracane A baracan fabric, which is woven by using warp ends that are heavier than weft picks.
    Camera The term used to describe a rough, loosely woven linen fabrics, which are either in unbleached form or dyed in to a cream shade.
    Camille A rough weave fashioned by a number of weft picks in the same shed, which shape small ribs alternately on the face and back. Knots or small squares divide the ribs, resembling the joints in bamboo.
    Camise A light loose long-sleeved shirt, gown, or tunic
    Camisole A short sleeveless negligee for women
    Camlet A broad range of fine, high quality, smooth, lustrous, plain weave fabrics made of silk, hair, or wool fibres and in a variety of qualities for suitings and furnishings. It was originally woven in camel hair.
    Combing Operation that is part of the manufacturing process of cotton and other staple yarns. It is an additional step beyond carding in both cotton and worsted yarn manufacture. The process involves straightening and parallelizing of fibres in the sliver and removal of undesirable short fibres (usually less than 1”) and foreign matter by using a comb or combs assisted by brushes and rollers, before spinning into yarn. Combed yarns are much superior to carded yarns; they are finer, cleaner, stronger and more even and compact, having much less projecting fibres.
    Combing machine See Comber
    Combing wool Strong wool fibre, strictly of combing length, usually 50 mm or more.
    Combining Process of laminating two or more fabrics together or fabric with materials like paper, leather, foam rubber, etc. by bonding with adhesive materials for use in footwear, luggage, belt, brassiere, etc.   
    Combustible textile Textile that will ignite and burn or that will give off vapours that will ignite and burn when subjected to external sources of ignition.
    Combustion Chemical process of oxidation that occurs at a rate fast enough to produce heat and usually light either as a glow or flames
    Comfort See under Fibre properties
    Comforter
  • Bed over-covering assembly, consisting of an insulating filler material, secured between two layers of fabric, used primarily to reduce heat loss.
  • Long narrow usually knitted neck scarf.
    		•
    Comfort stretch fabrics
  • Fabrics that rely more on stretch than on force of recovery for their utility. This class includes most of the woven elastic fabrics containing less than 15% elastomer and most woven fabrics containing stretch yarns.
  • See also Woven stretch fabrics; Power stretch fabrics
    		•
    Co-mingled yarn Yarn consisting of two or more different yarns that have been combined or intermingled, usually by means of air jets.
    Commercial Modelling term, which is used to describe an appearance by a model in a film or tape for television, advertising a specific product.
    Commercial allowance Arbitrary value equal to the commercial moisture regain plus a specified allowance for finish, formally adopted for use with the mass of the scoured, oven-dried material in making certain calculations.
    Commercial colours Shades those are not fast to washing or light.
    Commercial composition In wool, the percentages by weight of wool base, moisture, and other non-wool base components in wool to which a specific commercial designation is applied.
    Commercial consumer See Institutional consumer
    Commercial designation Term used to refer to one lot of wool in stated form, and having specified commercial composition
    Commercial fast dyes See Direct dyes
    Commercial fibre length
  • Group of terms employed in commercial practice for describing fibre length, other than the standard definition for fibre length.
  • See also Fibre length; Barbe; Crimped length; Dispersion length; Effective length; Fibre diagram; Fibre extent; Fibrogram; Floating fibre index; Hauteur; Span length; Staple length; Uniformity index; Uniformity ratio; Upper half mean length
    		•
    Commercial laundering Process by which textile products or specimens may be rinsed, bleached, dried, and pressed by non-home type equipment, typically at higher temperatures, higher pH, and longer times than used for home laundering
    Commercial mass Billed mass (weight) as determined by a generally accepted method or as agreed upon between the purchaser and seller.
    Commercial moisture regain Arbitrary value formally adopted as the regain to be used with the oven-dried mass when calculating the commercial or legal weight of shipments or deliveries of any specific textile material.
    Commercial standards Group of commercial standards issued by a country’s Bureau of Standards, which are not laws but are important as accepted voluntary benchmarks of performance and quality by the industry. These standards are usually referred to by number and spell out test procedures and minimum performance guidelines.
    Commercial weight
  • Oven-dry weight of a textile material (except viscose) plus the weight corresponding to its commercial moisture regain.
  • For viscose, oven-dry weight of staple or filament viscose after scouring by the different prescribed methods plus the weight corresponding to its commercial moisture regain.
    		•
    Commission Modelling term, used to describe the sum deducted from a model’s earnings by her agency for their services.
    Commission finisher
    Synonym: Job finisher    		 Organisation which dyes and finishes fibre, yarn or fabric to order, collecting an agreed upon fee of so much per unit length/weight.
    Commode Traditional wire frame, on which the high ladies’ headdress, the fontange, was adjusted.
    Common twill
    Synonym: Ordinary twill    		 Even sided four-harness twill weave or a simple 45º two up, two down twill.
    Compact The term used to describe a tight, dense fabric with a firm hand.
    Compacting Durable finish imparted on man-made fibres and knitted fabrics by employing heat and pressure to shrink them to produce a crêpey and bulky texture. 
    Compacting mark
    Synonym: Blanket mark    		 Fabric defect which manifests as a crimped, rippled, wavy, pebbled, or cockled place in a fabric, resulting in distortion of the texture.
    Compacting pucker Fabric defect, which manifests as wavy or puckered look, when the fabric is spread on the cutting table. It is caused by uneven wetting out on the compacting machine, due to defective spray heads.
    Companion fabrics Term used to describe a group of two or more fabrics that have been specially designed and developed for usage in combination, i.e. they are to be used together.
    Compatibility In textile dyeing, propensity of individual dye components in a combination shade to exhaust at similar rates resulting in a build-up of shade that is consistent, or nearly constant, in hue throughout the dyeing process.
    Compatible dyes Group of different dyestuffs, which when used in combination are capable of making a homogenous mixture that neither separates nor is changed by chemical interaction.
    Compatible shrinkage
  • Term used to describe bonded fabrics,  in which the face fabric and backing fabric have same or closely similar shrinkage ratio, thereby preventing puckering or delamination of the bonding.
  • Term used to describe linings and other findings that have identical level of shrinkage as the outer shell fabric.
    • Compenzine Twisted yarn comprising one single yarn and two tightly twisted yarns. During the twisting process the single yarn puckers or crimps. Fabrics made from these yarns acquire a nubby or slubby appearance. 
    Complementary colours Term used to describe the colours on the colour wheel, which are contrary to each other. Green, a combination of yellow and blue, has as its complement the primary colour red. The primary colour yellow has purple, which is a combination of red and blue, as its complement. Thus, the complementary colour completes the primary colour. When exact parts of complementary colours are combined, grey is produced.
    Completely washable fabric Fabric that is washable in machine or by hand in bucket with hot water (72º C) to clean the fabric. The fabric resists excessive shrinkage, colour change and distortion under these washing conditions. 
    Complex seam Seam made in two or more steps, as opposed to a plain seam. Complex seams have one or more stitching lines as part of their construction and include double-welt seams, flat-felled seams, French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tucked seams and welt seams. They do not include plain seams or seam-finishes or decorative additions to seams.  
    Component polymer Term used to refer a textile fibre polymer
    Composite
  • Solid product consisting of two or more discrete physical phases, including a binding material (matrix) and a fibrous material.
  • Modelling term, used to describe a card or brochure featuring photographs and measurements of a model used for promotional purposes.
    		•
    Composite fibres Fibres composed of two or more polymer types or variants of one type of polymer in a sheath-core or a side-by-side configuration.
    Composite material Textile product fashioned by intimately combining two or more discrete physical phases, usually a solid matrix, such as a resin, and a fibrous reinforcing component.
    Composite yarn Yarn composed of both staple and continuous filament components, e.g. core-spun yarnand wrap-spun yarn.
    Composition How visually satisfying the different parts of a design are arranged. A well-composed design is made up of different components, which form a harmony that is aesthetically pleasing.
    Composition dot See Flock dot
    Compound Substance of two or more elements in fixed proportions. Compounds can be decomposed into their constituent elements.
    Compound colours Colours made of varying amounts of all three primary colours.
    Compound fabric General term used to describe layered woven fabrics in which the separate layers or plies, each with its own warp and weft, are produced simultaneously and woven together in one process. Fabrics containing two plies are known as double (or two-ply) fabrics and others by the number of plies they contain. 
    Compound feed Feed mechanism comprising synchronised drop feed and needle feed.
    Compound needle Needle whose hook closure is set in motion by a tongue or piston, which slides inside the needle shaft.
    Compound twill Novelty twill fabric, in which two or more types of twill weaves are combined to produce an over-all twill effect with each weave; however remaining distinct.  
    Compressibility
  • Term used to explain one of the physical handling properties of the ease of squeezing, varying from soft (high) to hard (low).
  • See also Hand of fabric
    • Compression resilience Term used to describe springiness of fabrics.
    Compression shrinking range Machine used for pre-shrinking of fabrics.
    Compressive shrinkage Machine used for pre-shrinking of fabrics.
    Compressively stabilised fabric Term used to describe a fabric having the property of reduced shrinkage; cotton, viscose, flax, and cellulose-blend fabrics are subjected to mechanical manipulation in a ‘compressive shrinkage control unit’ for imparting them the property of reduced shrinkage
    Computer aided design Acronym:CAD Program stages whereby a computer is employed to assist in the designing of a product; the program makes it possible to visualize and manipulate the objects or spatial environments during designing.
    Computer aided manufacture Acronym:CAM Process of making a product, in which the production machine is controlled by a computer.
    Computerised colour matching Data of dyes of a specific number of different concentrations are stored in the computer memory. When the colour value of the sample to be matched and a list of dyestuffs to be used are fed into the computer, the computer prints out a number of recipes of these dye-concentrations of varying costs and closenesses. The computerised colour matching systems rely upon on the use of the spectrophotometer with an integrated sphere and the digital computer, which is provided with a programme, which enables the computer to carry out colour matching calculations. The spectrophotometer analyses the reflectance colour value of the dyed sample in quantitative terms; i.e. it measures the light reflectance properties of individual dyes on the fabric over the entire visible spectrum
    Computerised dyeing Term used to describe the employment of computer control in dyeing processes. Linear programming of dyes, which can be formulated to develop any colour required. Also computer colour matching through the use of spectrophotometric curves and colorimeters, which ensure quickness and greater precision. 
    Concealed snap Slit in a garment where closures are hidden.
    Concentration Amount of solute per unit volume or mass of solvent or of solution.
    Conch
    Synonym: Conque    		 Large shell-shaped traditional hat in gauze or light crepe, mounted on a wire framework.
    Condensation polymerisation
  • Formation of a polymer by reaction of one or more compounds with elimination of reaction products of low molecular weight such as water. 
  • See also Polymerisation; Addition polymerisation
    • Condense dye Dye that is capable, during or after application, to react covalently with itself or other compounds, other than the substrate, to form a molecule of significantly increased size.
    Condenser Last segment of a condenser card. It apportions a broad thin web of fibres into narrow strips, which are then consolidated by rubbing into slubbings.
    Condenser card Roller-and-clearer type of card, as distinct from a flat card, which converts fibrous raw materials to slubbings, by means of a condenser. 
    Condenser cotton yarn Cotton yarn with fewer than normal twists, which have been reworked to rectify the defect by running through water, sometimes singeing, and re-twisting.  
    Condenser sheeting Sheeting fabric in which, condenser yarns are used as weft yarns.
    Condenser-spun Yarn spun from slubbing. It is laid without any regular order and spun with a minimum amount of draft and twist. Generally woollen, and sometimes cotton and some man-made fibres are made into yarn by this method
    Condition Term refers to moisture present in textile fibres in their raw or partly or wholly manufactured form.
    Conditioned weight Total weight of textile material in oven-dried condition and the weight corresponding to its commercial moisture regain.   
    Conditioner tube Tube supplying steam or hot air and surrounding a melt-spun thread-line and located between extrusion and wind-up, whose purpose is to control the fine structure of the yarn.
    Conditioning
  • Practice of allowing textile materials (raw materials, slivers, yarns, and fabrics) to come to hygroscopic equilibrium with the surrounding atmosphere.
  • Practice of modifying the moisture content of textile materials (raw materials, slivers, yarns, and fabrics) to come to hygroscopic equilibrium with the standard of specified relative humidity and temperature, for testing atmosphere for testing.
  • Process of adding relatively small quantities of water to textile materials (raw materials, slivers, yarns and fabrics) for bringing the textile materials to an agreed moisture content for sale or to facilitate later processing. Among methods used for applying water are: mechanical means during gilling or winding, usage of conditioning machines, storing in an atmosphere of very high relative humidity, etc.
    		•
    Cone
  • Yarn holder or bobbin usually made of paper, wood or plastic in conical shape. Also called ‘cone core’, it is used as the core of a conical package of yarn.
  • Conical package of yarn wound on a conical support. The shape and the cross winding pattern ensure easy release of usage yarn during consumption.
    		•
    Cone angle Term used to describe the angle of a cone.
    Cone core See under Cone
    Cone winding See Coning
    Coney fur Soft, longhaired rabbit fur. It is cheap and often used to imitate more expensive ones. Not hardwearing.
    Confuser Device employed to partially confine an air jet of the air-jet loom.
    Congo red First synthetic direct dye invented, which can dye cotton without the use of mordants.
    Coning Term used to describe the operation of making a cone wound package.
    Coning oil Oil employed in small quantities on yarns for lubrication; it is particularly beneficial in high speed winding and knitting.
    Conjugate fibres See Bi-component fibres
    Conjugate yarns See Bi-Component yarns
    Connecting ring In zippers, a device shaped like the letter ‘D’, used to secure a pull, having more than one component in its design, to the bail of the slider.
    Conque See Conch
    Consecutive knitting Term used to describe the act of loop formation along a row, one loop at a time. This is a characteristic of most weft knitting machines using the latch needle, and also describes hand knitting. In contrast, flat bearded needle machines incorporate loops into the fabric collectively.
    Consignment Term used to describe textile materials of a specific type and quality delivered to one customer against a single shipping order.
    Consolidation dimensional change Dimensional change that occurs when a knit fabric is gently agitated in water to overcome all the frictional constraints in it after it has been allowed to relax in water without agitation to cause the relaxation dimensional change.
    Constant rate of extension
    Acronym: CRE     		Machine-setting used in testing of textile materials, in which the rate of increase in the length of the specimen is uniform with time. The rate of increase of force or elongation is dependent upon the extension characteristics of the specimen
    Constant rate of loading Acronym: CRL Machine-setting used in testing of textile materials, in which the rate of increase of the force being applied to the specimen is uniform with time.
    Constant rate of traverse Acronym: CRT Machine-setting used in testing of textile materials, in which the straining clamp moves at a uniform rate and the force applied is measured via a force balancing system through the small movement of the nominally fixed jaw. The rate of increase of force or elongation is dependent upon the extension characteristics of the specimen.
    Constituent elements of hand
  • General term used to describe a group of elements, which make the sensation of touching one fabric different from that of touching another. The elements are: components, qualities, attributes, dimensions, properties or impressions.
  • See also Hand of fabric
    		•
    Constitutionals Term used to describe a group of heavy fustian fabrics, having perhaps the widest warp cords made. Usually made in twill weave and used for upholstery.
    Construction See Yarnconstruction and Fabricconstruction
    Consumer
  • Individuals who use goods and services.
  • See also Ultimate consumer; Institutional consumer
    • Consumer care Term used to describe the cleaning and maintenance procedures as customarily undertaken by the ultimate user of consumer textile products.
    Consumer’s risk Term used to describe the probability of accepting a lot, in acceptance sampling, when the process average is at the limiting quality level.
    Consumer textile product Term used to describe a textile product intended to satisfy human wants and needs.
    Contact sheet Modelling term used to describe a page showing several exposures from the same roll of film.
    Contact stain Discolouration of a fabric, caused by contact with another fabric during washing; colours from fabrics dyed with fugitive dyes, are prone to be transferred to other fabrics.
    Contemporary Term used to describe the styles currently in vogue.
    Continuous cure Method of curing of durable press garments, by the employing a conveyor system to carry garments into and out of the curing oven or continuous oven.
    Continuous dyeing Dyeing carried out as a continuous process. The fabric is passed through the dyeing and subsequent processes without disruption. This process offers definite savings in time, labour and other expenses and generally the dyeing results are more consistent
    Continuous element In zippers, the configured element formed continuously along a length of monofilament.
    Continuous element zipper Zipper consisting of two continuously formed elements each attached to one of the opposing edges of two tapes, which are engaged and disengaged by the movement of a slider.
    Continuous filament Long continuous or unbroken strand of fibre extruded from a spinneret in the form of a monofilament. Most man-made fibres such as nylon, polyester, viscose, acetate, are made in continuous filament form, as distinguished from natural staple fibres such as cotton, wool, etc, which have short staple length. The one and only natural fibre obtained in filament form is the raw silk, which is spun by a silkworm as a continuous filament wrapped in a cocoon in 300 to 1,600 yard lengths.
    Continuous filament yarn
    Synonym: Filament yarn         		Yarn composed of one or more filaments that run essentially the whole length of the yarn. The yarn made of a single filament is called a monofilament yarn and the yarn made of several filaments is called as multifilament yarn.
    Continuous glass filament Fibre bundle composed of many glass filaments.
    Continuous process
  • Process in which the materials pass in sequence through a series of stages to give a continuous output of processed material. This process provides a distinct saving in time, labour and expense and the results are usually of better quality.
  • See also Batch wise process
    • Continuous spinning Method of viscose production process, in which the filaments, after being formed, receive all the subsequent treatments in the same machine, emerges as a finished yarn.  
    Continuous vat dyeing Process of applying shades of vat dyes in one continuous operation that includes: pad-dry-reduce-oxidise-soap-dry, all at good speed.
    Continuous yarn felting Process by which, slivers, rovings, slubbings, or yarns are felted on a continuous basis. Wool-rich material is passed through a unit where it is agitated in an aqueous medium when felting takes place. The process is used to produce a yarn, or to consolidate a spun yarn.   
    Contour stitching Term used to describe a type of automatic sewing along or near the edge of a garment part; the shape may be predetermined or edge following.
    Contraction See Yarn take-up; Twist take-up
    Contraction in weaving Reduction in fabric width or length, during weaving or subsequent processes.
    Contract job Embroidery and/or screen-printing jobs that are carried out on clothes brought by the client from elsewhere.
    Controlled compressive shrinkage
    Synonym: Compressive shrinkage    Acronym: CCS     		Process in which fabric is caused to shrink in length, e.g. by compression. Sanforizing is one example of its commercial usage. 
    Controlled dyeing Dyeing method in which fibre, dye, and dye assistants are each measured according to each other, in order to achieve consistent results. The weight and measurement of the dry ingredients must be taken into account to control the dyeing process.
    Control specimen Set or sets of specimens from one batch, stored under defined conditions, and tested as needed to provide comparison with changes in physical properties of other specimens from the same batch after exposure to specified conditions. 
    Control under cover garment Garment having a known history, the performance of which in a specific end-use has been established previously, and which is used as a standard of comparison.
    Conventional allowance Percentage that in the calculation of commercial weight and yarn count or linear density is added to the oven-dry weight of the textile material, which has been previously washed free of finish. For such material, the conventional allowance is arbitrarily chosen according to commercial practice, and includes the moisture regain and the normal finish that is added to impart satisfactory textile qualities.
    Conventional blanket Blanket woven in either a plain or a twill weave that is napped on both sides.
    Conventional bundle system
  • Production system, in which bundles are passed from storage to an operator and then back to storage for allocation to the next operation.
  • See also Progressive bundle system
    • Conventional cotton Widely used commercial system for growing cotton, by feeding plants heavy dosages of synthetic fertilisers, and eliminating competing species for maximum yields. Using toxic pesticides like chemical herbicides, insecticides and defoliants, the process of providing conventional cotton is dangerous to farmers, people who live near farms, as well as the environment.
    Conventional moisture regain Agreed value, applicable to textile material, which is used to represent the mass of water in any form, which that material contains when, after pre-conditioning, it comes into equilibrium with the standard atmosphere. It is expressed as a percentage of the mass of the dried material.
    Conventional twist Three-stage method of ‘twist-set-untwist’ for textured stretch yarns.
    Conversational Term used to describe a whimsical design or design with a theme.
    Converted fabrics Term used to describe fabrics that have been finished in someway, e.g. bleached, dyed, printed etc as distinguished from grey goods. 
    Converter
    Synonym: Merchant converter    		 Person or company, which procure grey goods and sell them as finished fabrics. A converter organizes and manages the process of finishing the fabric to a buyer’s specifications, particularly the bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc. His major function is to provide a rapid response to fashion change, quick delivery and service, relatively small orders, and an emphasis on novelty rather than staple or basic fabrics. Converters must shop the world for ideas, catch fashion signals fast, and translate them quickly to cutters.
    Convertible collar Rolled collar that can be worn open or closed. Sewn directly to the neckline.
    Converting General term used to refer to finishing of grey goods in any way, e.g. bleaching, dyeing, and printing. Also occasionally used to describe the processing of yarn as in dyeing, sizing, gassing, mercerising, winding etc. 
    Conversion, tow See Tow conversion
    Conveyor system Straight-line system in which operators are positioned at the side of a conveyor, which is used to transport the garment parts.
    Convict stripes Cotton fabric having inch-wide black colour weft stripes on a white ground. 
    Convolutions Term used to describe a natural, irregular spiral form of a cotton fibre, which varies with different species. The finer fibres have more of these convolutions.   
    Cool Term used to describe a smooth, slick, hand generally associated with synthetics.
    Cool colours Term used to describe a group of cool and light colours; blue, violet and green. They are reducing in nature, as seen by the eye they move away from the object thereby increasing its size. Cool colours have a calm and restful effect.
    Coolie hat  Conical-shaped usually straw hat worn especially to protect the head from the heat of the sun.
    Cooling cylinder Open cylinder or alternatively closed cylinder filled with cold water, over which hot fabric is passed to accelerate cooling.
    Coolmax Trade brand from DuPont; polyester with good wicking qualities allowing for better moisture evaporation; used in activewear.
    Cool mesh Construction similar to a pique knit but with a more open texture for increased breathability; it features a soft hand for better comfort.
    Cool weave Construction similar to a pique knit but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Slightly larger knit than cool mesh, it has a denser feel.
    Coonskin  Cap or coat, made of coonskin.
    Cop
  • Small paper or plastic tube without flanges, on to which thread is wound.  
  • Small package of thread or twine, wound on a cop.
  • Thread package wound into the shape of a hollow cylinder.
  • Weft picks wound on a cone-shaped paper tube that is carried through the warp shed by the shuttle.
  • Form of yarn package spun on a mule spindle.
  • Term can also be used to describe a ring tube.
    		•
    Cop-end effect Occurrence of a gradual narrowing of the fabric as the pirn empties during weaving with a single shuttle, forming the characteristic doglegged selvedge. This is caused by the increase in yarn tension that occurs when unwinding from the base of the pirn.
    Copolymer
  • Polymer in which the repeating units are not all the same. Normally, but not always, copolymers are formed from two or more different starting materials.
  • See also Block copolymer; Graft copolymer
    		•
    Copotain See Capotain
    Coppered block Printing block made by hammering-in copper or brass strips of varying section.
    Coppering Art of making coppered blocks used in printing.
    Copper plate cloth Term used to describe a cotton fabric printed with Indigo blue.
    Coppery In textile parlance, a colour of a reddish to brownish orange colour of copper.
    Coral  In textile parlance, a deep pink colour.
    Coral stitch Blanket-stitch done backwards with a heavy thread; it is embroidered compactly and is used as an outline or filling stitch.
    Corah silk Lightweight, washable Indian silk dress material of natural, creamy white colour. 
    Cord
  • Loosely employed general term applied to a variety of textile strands including, cabled yarns, plied yarns, and structures made by braiding, knitting or weaving.
  • In zippers, a strand of multiple yarns for use in forming a bead.
  • Term is sometimes used to describe fabric having a rib construction or a garment made from it.
    		•
    Cordage Term used to describe a product, regardless of size, made by twisting or braiding textile yarns, which is generally round in cross section and capable of sustaining loads.
    Cord carpet Short-height, loop-pile carpet with prominent rows of loops in the weft direction.
    Corded fabric Fabric, the surface on which there is a perceptible weft-rib effect resulting from the use of a heavier or plied yarn together with finer yarns.
    Corded yarn Yarn made from two or more finer yarns twisted together.
    Corded piping Cord inserted in a narrow bias strip of a fabric.
    Corded selvedge See Loopy selvedge
    Corded tucks Cord placed between the folds of tucks.
    Cord effects Term used to describe the ribbed effects on the surface of fabrics. Cord stripes fabric has warp wise ribs and repp fabric has weft wise ribs.
    Cord fabric Loose net-like construction made by interlacing of 26 ends of cable yarn with 2 to 6 numbers of single ply weft yarn picks per inch. This is run into a rubber solution for the manufacture of automobile tyres; the number of layers of cord fabric determines the ply rating of the tyre.
    Cord locks Stopper or toggle on a draw-cord that keeps the cord from retracting into the garment.
    Cordoban Term used to refer tanned goatskin, meant mainly for footwear.
    Cordonnet Heavy thread usually used for outlining the lace designs.
    Cordon yarn A two-ply union yarn made from a single cotton yarn and a single worsted or woollen yarn.
    Cordovan Heavy leather from horsehide; it is the most common leather used for coats, jackets, boots and shoes.
    Cord stripes See under Cord effects
    Cord twist Amount of twist in a cord made from two or more single or plied yarns.
    Cordurette Plain weave, woollen dress fabric having cords fashioned by the weft yarns.
    Cord du roi French name of an original lush velvety corduroy fabric. Literally the term means ‘cord of the King’.
    Corduroy Hardwearing and durable, cut-pile fabric with narrow to wide ribs, which run in the warp direction. Extra sets of weft yarns are woven into the fabric to form the ridges of yarn on the surface, which are so built that clear lines can be seen when the piles are cut. Traditionally made with cotton ground, usually plain or twill weave, and the vertical cut-pile stripes made of cotton or man-made fibres. The cut pile fibres forms the surface, the binding points of the pile wefts being so arranged that once the pile has been cut, fibres form a surface of rounded cords or ribs, which run in the warp direction. The floats of the pile wefts are cut in their centre. On cutting, the fibres spring upward, which are later singed and brushed up to form the pile ridges or cords. The cords are rounded plush velvet type, with the longest fibres in the centre, formed by longer floats, and the shortest fibres on each side, formed by the shorter floats. The ribs may be even or they may be ‘high-low’, i.e. wide, high ribs alternating with smaller low ones. Corduroys are now produced in many forms for dress and general clothing use, in a wide variety of cord styles and sizes. Dress styles are produced in viscose as well as cotton and elaborate cord patterns are produced by fancy cutting methods. Washable, stretchable, durable press versions are very popular. Corduroys are classified by the number of wales or cords to the inch. Used for dresses, sportswear, children’s clothing, slacks, jackets, trousers, skirts, etc.
    Cord weave Variation of plain weave, the cord weave produces lines down the fabric. In this the 1 and 1 plain interlacing has been increased to 2 in weft direction.
    Graphic
    Cord yarn     		Yarn made by twisting together of two or more plied yarns.
    Core Central part of a gimp, cord or rope, which may be made up of parallel, twisted, cabled or knitted strands but which is not structurally coalesced with the gimp, cord or rope.
    Cored braid In a rope, the hollow braid construction, plain or twill, the centre of which is filled with yarns, which are not braided.
    Coredon Woollen dress fabric in 2/1 twill, manufactured with thin warp and thick weft.
    Core sampling Method of obtaining representative samples from the central part of bale or package of textile fibres, by inserting a coring tube driven by hand or machine into each package.
    Corset Find description from Net
    Corset top
    Synonym: Boned bodice    		 Form-fitting, bodice, usually strapless, with boning and either laces or snap closures, styled in the fashion of the ladies undergarment of the same name.
    Core-sheath bi-component See under Bi-component fibres
    Core-sheath fibre Configuration of a bi-constituent fibre.
    Graphic It combines the properties of both the components, by harnessing particular physical properties such as strength or conductivity of the first component and aesthetic, textile, adhesive, or other properties of the second component. The asymmetric form can also be used for the generation of crimp. 
    Core spinning Method of yarn spinning, in which a filament, usually an elastic filament under tension, is enclosed with a casing of staple fibres. When the tension is released, the casing of fibres is pulled into a closer structure. The resultant yarn becomes stretchable to the amount of the tension of the elastic core filament. The woven or knit fabric made from these yarns will have all the characteristics of the principal fibre together with the added advantage of stretch and recovery.
    Core-spun yarn
    Synonym: Core thread    		 A yarn consisting of an inner core yarn surrounded by staple fibres; a yarn consisting of a compound structure of filament base or core yarn, with exterior wrapping of loose staple fibres, which has not been twisted into a yarn. A core-spun yarn combines the strength and/or elongation of the core thread and the characteristics of the staple fibres, which form the surface, e.g. (a) a sewing thread consisting of a central polyester filament surrounded by cotton fibres, in order to provide the strength and resiliency of polyester, along with the moisture-absorbent aesthetics and dye affinity of cotton, (b) worsted yarn with bulked-nylon core in order to provide strength and elasticity to the fabric, (c) an elastomeric core with a spun yarn from either natural or man-made fibres in order to provide elasticity and comfort in stretch fabrics. Used for sewing threads and a variety of needs including household and apparel fabrics.
    Core-spun stretch yarn Yarn having an elastic filament as its core and an outer casing of staple fibres.
    Core thread See Core-spun yarn
    Core yarn
  • Internal member of a core-spun, covered, or fancy yarn, readily separable from the covering fibres or yarn.
  • Term is sometimes used rather wrongly instead of the preferred term core-spun yarn.
  • See also Circle twisted
    • Corkscrew Fibre defect, which manifests in silk cocoons, places in which one filament is longer than the remainder, giving the appearance of thick spiral form. 
    Corkscrew fabric Warp-faced worsted twill fabric, in which the weave is such that warps completely obscures the weft on both sides of the fabric and produce a warp rib at an angle across the cloth. Used for suits and overcoats, etc.
    Corkscrew repp
  • Plain-woven fabric with a fine warp and a thick spiral weft, which gives an irregular appearance to the rib lines.
  • See also Repp
    		•
    Corkscrew twist Yarn defect, which manifests in twisted yarns, as one yarn loosely coiled around the other in a spiral or corkscrew effect.
    Corkscrew weave Term used to describe a warp-faced weave in steep twill structure.
    Corkscrew yarn
  • Plied fancy yarn characterised by smooth spiralling of one component around the other. The effect can be produced by many ways: (a) by imparting uneven tension to component yarns during twisting of plied or cord yarn, resulting in the component strands with less tension forming spirals around those with greater tension (b) by plying two single ends or groups of ends of equal length containing S and Z twists, respectively (c) by plying two ends of equal length, one coarser than the other.
  • Yarn defect, which manifests as spiralling of one or more of the component ends in a plied yarn. It is usually caused by difference in linear density, twist direction, twist level, or tension between the ends.
    • Corner window In merchandising parlance, a storefront window, which can be seen from two sides. Usually located in a corner parallel to the sidewalk.
    Cornet Simplified fontange cap. It has an upstanding frill in front and lappets at the back. The veil is wired to stand up above the forehead. A topknot of wired ribbon is pinned at the front of the cap.
    Corn fibre See Zein fibre
    Cornflower In textile parlance, a moderate purplish blue colour.
    Coroa See Caroa
    Coronal Circlet for the head usually implying rank or dignity.
    Coronation gimp Woven trimming, characterised by its ‘grain of wheat’ effect on each edges.   
    Coronet  Ornamental wreath or band for the head, usually for wear by women on formal occasions.
    Coronizing Finishing treatment for glass fibre and fabrics used for textile applications. It increases the resistance to abrasion, water repellence, crease resistance and flexibility of glass fibre and fabrics and improves the handle to an impressive degree. It also makes possible the effective coloration of glass material.
    Correct invoice weight Weight of material calculated from the oven-dry weight and the recommended allowance.
    Corrosion Oxidation of metals in the presence of air and moisture.
    Corset  Close-fitting and often laced medieval jacket; a woman's close-fitting boned supporting undergarment that is often hooked and laced and extends from the torso to below the hips and has garters attached
    Corset fabric General term used for a group of fabrics used for corsets, girdles, brassieres and other foundation garments. Cotton, viscose, nylon, elastic or elastomeric yarns are used in plain and fancy weaves. They are often dyed in pink or flesh shades.
    Corselet  Piece of armour covering the trunk but usually not the arms or the legs; a combination girdle and brassiere
    Corselette  Undergarment combining girdle and brassiere
    Cortex Term used to describe the inner portion of most animal hair fibres. It forms the main part of its composition and consists of spindle-shaped elongated cells.
    Cortical cells Term used to describe fibrous cells, which form the cortex of most of the animal hair fibres
    Co-spun yarn Yarn composed of number of filaments of two different polymers that are extruded concurrently during yarn manufacture producing a single strand. The polymers may be either of different generic species, or of the same species, such as copolymer and homopolymer polyester.  
    Costume 
  • Person's ensemble of outer garments, especially a woman's ensemble of dress with coat or jacket.
  • Outfit worn to create the appearance characteristic of a particular period, person, place, or thing.
    • Cot Term used to describe a matted or felted part of fleece.
    Cotele French term used to describe a bengaline fabric, made from silk or viscose warp and worsted weft, which is given a hard twist.
    Cotswold wool Harsh, crisp, wavy wool usually having a length of 20 to 35 cm, obtained from a breed of sheep originally reared in the Cotswold Hills, England.  
    Cotta  Waist-length surplice.
    Cotted wool Species of wool from the fleece that is felted or matted together, so that it will not come apart freely when handled.
    Cotton See Cotton fibre
    Cotton boll Term used to describe, the seed-case and its contents on the cotton plant.
    Cotton broadcloth See under Broadcloth
    Cotton classing Practice of systematic evaluation of raw cotton based on standard scales of measurement and consistent terms of description. Main factors considered are grade, staple and character. Classing makes marketing and selection for manufacturing easier and more precise.
    Cotton count Yarn numbering system based on the length and weight of the yarn. It is the number of 840 yd. lengths required to make up one pound of yarn. Originally used for cotton, it is now used for most staple fibres.
    Cotton crêpe Lightweight, washable, crinkled fabric. Used for dresses, blouses, and children’s clothes.
    Cotton dust Dust present during the handling or processing of cotton that may contain a mixture of substances, including smaller particles of ground-up plant matter, fibre, bacteria, fungi, soil, pesticides, non-cotton plant matter and other contaminants which may have accumulated during the growing, harvesting and subsequent processing or storage periods.
    Cotton fabric  Dust present during the handling or processing of cotton that may contain a mixture of substances, including smaller particles of ground-up plant matter, fibre, bacteria, fungi, soil, pesticides, non-cotton plant matter and other contaminants which may have accumulated during the growing, harvesting and subsequent processing or storage periods.
    Cotton fabric  General term for a wide variety of fabrics made from cotton fibres. They are much valued, because of their versatility. Cotton fabrics are cool, soft, absorbent, and easily launderable and provide comfort when made into all types of clothing. They have fairly firm handle and the ability to withstand repeated launderings, vigorous rubbing and high temperatures. They are also resistant to insects and well reputed for their long and useful life. However they are flammable, especially if napped, gradually weaken on exposure to sunlight, and develop mildew under suitable conditions, soil easily, crease readily and tear fairly easily because of their low stretch and poor elasticity. Used for blouses, shirts, dresses, children’s wear, active wear, jackets, skirts, pants, sweaters, hosiery, curtains, draperies, bedspreads, comforters, throws, sheets, towels, table cloths, table mats, napkins etc.
    Cotton felt Cotton fabric heavily napped on both sides, used mainly as silence cloth.
    Cotton fibre Natural unicellular fibre of vegetable origin, obtained as hairs attached to the seeds of a wide variety plants of the species ‘gossypium’ of the ‘malvaceae’ family. The name cotton has derived from the Arabic word ‘qutun’ which means cotton. It is the most versatile natural textile fibre, possessing more ideal properties than any other textile fibre. Often referred to as the ‘King of fibres’, this high fashion fibre is the principal clothing fibre of the world. Cotton is grown in the tropical and warm regions of the world. The world's leading producers of cotton are Pakistan, China, the United States, India, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Turkey, Australia, and Egypt. The boll of the cotton plant is a capsule that bursts open when ripe, allowing the seed and attached lint (hairs) to be easily picked. The cotton fibre is removed from the seed by the ginning process. There are different types of cotton depending on the country of origin and climatic conditions; the fibres vary very much in colour (mostly different shades of cream colour), texture, length, fineness, strength and other characteristics. The chemical composition of cotton is almost pure cellulose. Raw cotton fibre contains about 90% cellulose, 6% moisture and some natural impurities. A distinct feature of the fibre is its spirality or twist. The fibre is hollow in the centre and when viewed under a microscope it looks like a twisted ribbon. The fibres are fine and are usually 1.25 to 5 cm long and staple fibres more than 4 cm long produce the highest quality cotton fabrics. Classification of cotton is chiefly based on the mean length of fibre; the longer the fibre, better the quality and higher the price. Other important fibre parameters that determine cotton fibre quality are strength, fineness and whiteness. As a textile fibre, cotton is cool, soft and comfortable. It is highly absorbent due to the natural cellulose and it retains 24 to 27 times its own weight, in water and is stronger when wet than dry. It can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. The fibre absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to ‘breathe’. Boiling and sterilizing temperatures can also be used on cotton without disintegration. Fabric made from cotton wears and drapes well and can be refurbished by washing or dry-cleaning. It can also be ironed at relatively high temperatures and stands up to abrasion. The fabric has fair to good pilling resistance, excellent static resistance. Some of the more widely used commercial cotton qualities include American upland; Egyptian; Pima; Sea Island, etc.
    Cotton fibre-wall Solid portion of the cotton fibre, which is further divided into two parts, a thin skin on the surface of the fibre called ‘primary wall’ and the main portion of the solid part of the fibre composed of layers of cellulose called the ‘secondary wall’.
    Cotton flouncing Plain weave, fine cotton fabric, embroidered with cotton or viscose thread, with a scalloped or flounced edge down one side. The fabric creases easily.
    Cotton frieze An all-cotton frieze fabric.
    Cotton gin Machine employed in cotton ginning.
    Cotton Ginning Mechanical process, by which the cotton lint is separated from the picked cotton bolls by the usage of a cotton gin machine.
    Cotton grading Practice of categorizing and appraising the cotton fibres, based on factors like growth, maturity, colour, cleanliness and freedom from insect injury.
    Cotton grass Term used to describe the fibres obtained from the fruit of the reed mace and used as wadding for upholstery, etc.
    Cotton Inc. Cotton Inc. is the central organization representing all segments of the cotton industry in fields of research and promotion. Primary mission is to increase consumption of the United States-grown cotton, cottonseed, and all cotton products throughout the world.
    Cotton Inspection Grading and classing, of cotton, to facilitate interstate and foreign commerce in cotton by providing official quality determinations.
    Cottonize Term used to describe the process of reducing the length of some bast fibres to the fibre length of cotton to make it capable for use in the manufacture of articles resembling those made of cotton. 
    Cotton Jacquard See under Jacquard 
    Cotton jersey Knitted cotton fabric, plain or printed. Cool and lightweight, very absorbent and comfortable. Used for casual and sports wear, summer dresses and blouses, children’s clothes.
    Cotton lap In warp knitting, the lapping movement made on a Milanese warp-knitting machine, in which the yarn traverses one wale per course.
    Cotton lasting See under Lasting
    Cotton lead chromate Cotton tobacco cloth finished with lead acetate followed by potassium or sodium bichromate for shielding out the sunrays and increase the wear-life of the cloth.
    Cotton-like Term used to describe a fabric that has a hand feel like cotton.
    Cotton maturity
  • Term used to describe, the factor determining the character of cotton, related to the thickness of the fibre wall. It depends upon the degree to which the lumen has been obliterated by the cellulose constituting the walls. It may also be referred to as ‘ripeness’.
  • See also Mature cotton fibre; Immature cotton fibre; Normal cotton fibre; Thin-walled cotton fibre; dead cotton fibre
    • Cotton linters Short fibres that adhere to the cottonseed, after the first ginning process, usually one-eighth of an inch or less in length, which are too short for yarn or fabric manufacturing. The cotton linters are used for the production of absorbent cotton, guncotton, viscose, celluloid, and other products
    Cotton, long staple See Long staple cotton
    Cotton modal See Cotton viscose
    Cotton mousseline See Butter muslin
    Cotton quality grading
  • Method of classifying cotton by the grade or degree of quality. Cotton quality grades are: Middling fair; Strict good middling; Good middling; Strict middling; Middling; Strict low middling; Low middling; Strict good ordinary and Good ordinary. All grades are compared with middling type.
  • See also Cotton staple classes
    • Cotton ratine fabric Loosely woven plain-weave fabric with a rough surface produced by twisting heavy and fine cotton yarns at various tensions. Usually dyed and polished for use as a furnishing fabric, though it is too loosely woven for use as chair covers.
    Cotton regatta Plain-weavecotton fabricsimilar in appearance to denim, but softer and with a closer weave. Produced in denim colours, blue, grey, pink, etc., but definitely a dress weight fabric. Used for crisp topstitched dresses, unlined jackets, and shorts.
    Cotton satin Soft fabricwith a sheen on the right side made of cotton yarn in satin weave. Produced in various weights and usually printed. A dress fabric, but also a very popular curtain fabric. Suitable for most styles of dress.
    Cotton shantung Plain-weave cotton fabricmade from irregular cotton yarns. The nubs or slubs are soft and are weak areas. Used mainly for curtains and bedspreads.
    Cotton sheers Group of thin, light-coloured woven fabrics, such as batiste, lawn, organdie and voile. They are used for drapery and dress goods.
    Cotton spinning system Process of manufacturing yarn from cotton staple fibres, in which the cotton staple fibres are joined together by drawing them from the fibrous mass and twisting them together.  The process comprise various general operations like, opening, picking, carding, drawing, roving, and spinning followed by winding. There have been many modifications to this process, especially in recent years. The cotton spinning system is now used extensively for other fibres, like viscose and other synthetic fibre staples and fibre blends.
    Cotton-spun A term used to describe a staple yarn produced on machinery originally developed for processing cotton into yarn.
    Cotton staple classes
  • Method for classifying cotton by the mean length of its fibres i.e. its staple. Cotton staple classes are: (a) ‘Very short staple’: not more than ¾ of an inch in length and coarse in texture. Used mainly as batting and wadding, (b) ‘Short staple’: between 13/16 and 15/16 of an inch. Used for yarns meant for cheaper fabrics, (c) ‘Medium staple’: between 15/16 and 11/8 inches. (d) ‘Ordinary long staple’: between 11/8 and 13/8 inches. (e) ‘Extra long staple’: 13/8 to 21/2 inch long.
  • See Cotton quality grading
    • Cotton system Spinning system adapted to fibres less than 65 mm. in length.
    Cotton trees Term used to describe a group of trees,which produce a soft fibre resembling cotton, e.g. ‘bombax’, ‘ceiba’, ‘eriodendron’, etc.
    Cotton velvet Short pile cotton fabric that is woven double; with the additional warp interlacing between the two base fabrics. The pile is afterwards cut and the fabrics are separated. Not as luxurious as other velvets but hardwearing, suitable for trousers for instance.
    Cotton viscose
    Synonym: Cotton modal    		 Group of soft, warm and lightweight fabrics in a wide variety of plains and prints. May be knitted or woven; may also be slightly brushed on one side. Used for tops, tee shirts, casual dresses, cardigan style jackets, etc.
    Cotton waste Materials removed from seed cotton, ginned lint, or stock in process, by any cleaning or processing machinery. The waste, usually consist of undesirable fibres or a mixture of cotton fibres with foreign matter. There are two classes of waste called ‘hard’ and ‘soft’, and the usage differs according to the class. The hard waste is essentially that from spinning frames, reeling and winding machines and all other waste of a thready disposition. Soft waste comes from earlier processes where the fibres are relatively little twisted, felted, or compacted. The waste may be spinnable or non-spinnable. Soft waste is used for padding and hard waste for paper manufacture, wiping material, etc. Spinnable waste is often mixed with new cotton or other fibres for yarns for weaving or knitting.
    Cotton wax Material, resembling natural wax, present in small quantities on the raw cotton fibre. It makes the fibre water-resistant. The wax can be removed from the fibres by scouring.
    Cotton wool Fibrous merchandise, in the form of a web or batt of fibres, made from cotton and/or viscose, used for medical or cosmetic purposes.
    Cotton yarn count Indirect yarn numbering system generally used for yarns spun on the cotton system. The number of 840yd. lengths of yarn per pound.
    Couching Embroidery work, in which the design is made by threads, cords, etc., which are laid upon the surface of the ground fabric and fastened by fine ‘couching stitches’ drawn through the fabric. 
    Count See Count of yarn
    Counting glass
    Synonym: Linen tester; Linen prover; Pick counter; Pick glass; Thread counter    		 Small mounted magnifying glass for counting yarns and examining weaves. The base of the mount generally contains a unit of measurement having an aperture one centimetre square, one inch square or cross shaped with various dimensions, convenient for counting ends and picks, or courses and wales in a fabric. Some models are available in a folding frame type.
    Count of course See Count density
    Count of cloth See Count of fabric
    Count of fabric See Count of woven fabric; Count of knit fabric
    Count of knitted fabric Number of counted units, of wale loops and course loops per unit length as counted while the fabric is held under zero tension, and is free of folds and wrinkles.
    Count of reed Number of dents per unit width of reed. There are many units. The more popular units of are: (a) number of dents/inch; (b) number of dents/2inches; (c) number of groups of 20 dents/36inches; (d) number of dents/10cm and (e) number of dents/cm; the recommended unit.
    Count of woven fabric Measure of the end and pick densities in a fabric. The number of warp-ends and weft-picks per unit length, as counted while the fabric is held under zero tension, and is free of folds and wrinkles. A cloth that has the same number of ends and picks per inch in woven goods is called a square cloth.
    Count of yarn
    Synonym:Count;Yarn count;Yarn number;Yarn linear density;Grist
  • Method of variously expressing the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of a yarn.
  • Numerical system for measuring yarn size indicating the relationship of length to weight.
  • Expressed in simple terms, it is, a number indicating the size and thickness of a yarn, i.e. whether it is a coarse or fine yarn.
  • See also Direct yarn numbering system; Indirect yarn numbering system
  • Compare Titre Number
    • Count strength product Acronym: CSP Acronym: Lea Count strength product; Break factor Product of the lea strength, and the actual count of cotton yarn.
    Couple Combination of a suitable organic component, usually a phenol or an arylamine, with a diazonium salt to form an azo compound as in the manufacture of azo colorants, in azoic dyeing or in the aftertreatment of direct dyeing.
    Coupled dyes See Developed dyes
    Coupling
  • Process by which, a dye that has already been applied on a textile material, is converted to an insoluble colour inside the fibre.
  • See also Azoic dyes; Developed dyes
    • Coupure Twilled Cashmere fabric, which during usage is cut in such a way, so that the twills run in the lengthwise direction of the fabric.
    Course Term used to describe the horizontal row of stitches or loops essentially formed from one or very few threads running from side to side of a weft-knit fabric.
    Graphic In machine knitting it is the product of one knitting cycle.
    Course density
    Synonym: Count of course    		 In knit fabrics, the number of visible loops per unit length measured along a wale; usually expressed as courses per unit length. 
    Course length Length of yarn in one whole course of a fabric with selvedges, or one whole circumference of a weft-knit circular fabric. It may be expressed as the length of yarn in a given number of loops, usually 100, or multiples or factors of 100.
    Course spirality In weft knitting, the inclination of courses from the horizontal, i.e. across the fabric, caused by multiple feeds on a circular knitting machine.
    Courtelle Trade name for an acrylic fibre, which is crease-resistant, strong, washable, unaffected by moths and mildew. Used for all types of clothing and furnishing fabrics, alone or in blends with other fibres and mixtures.
    Coutil See Coutille
    Coutille
    Synonym: Coutil    		 Strong cotton fabric, made in herringbone weave or reverse-twist twill weave. A close textured cloth, sometimes patterned. Used for corsetry, brassiere,tropical suiting and sometimes as a strong lining fabric.
    Courtrai finish Term used to describe a coarse, lacklustre finish usually employed on Irish linens.
    Couture French term comprises fashion designing; dressmaking or tailoring.
    Couvrechef Veil or covering for the head.
    Cover
  • Degree of evenness and closeness of thread spacing. Good cover gives the effect of a plane surface and cannot be obtained with hard-twisted yarns.
  • Degree to which in fabric finishing, the underlying structure is concealed by the finishing materials or treatments.
  • Extent to which an over-edge seam covers up the raw cut edge of a fabric or fabrics.
  • Outside layer of fibres that form the surface of a yarn.
  • See also Cover factor; Covering power
    • Coverall Single-piece legged workwear, often capable of being fastened at wrists and ankles.
    Covered yarn
  • Compound structure consisting of a readily separable core surrounded by a wrap or cover formed by one or more spun or filament yarns.
  • Yarn produced by feeding one yarn through one or more revolving spindles carrying another wrapping yarn. Covered yarn may also be produced using air-jet technology.
    • Cover factor
  • Degree that indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by one or more set of threads.
  • See Knit cover factor; Woven cover factor
    		•
    Covering See Cover printing
    Covering power Potential of a yarn to occupy space, for covering the interstices of a fabric. The covering power is very good for a yarn possessing relatively high bulk compared to its weight. 
    Covering stitch
  • Chain stitch produced on twin or multi-needle machines, used for covering seams.
  • See also Cover stitch
    		•
    Cover printing Cover printing Printing operation in which, a roller engraved with a delicate pattern, is used for over-printing an existing print to obtain a distinct subdued patterned ground.
    Cover seamed Seam finish in which two needles are used to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It is used around the neck, armholes, waistband, and wrists of garments to create a cleaner, more durable finish.
    Cover stitch
  • Stitch, often used to seam knitwear, which consists of at least two needle threads, a looper thread and a top thread passing over the edge of the material. Spun or textured polyester thread is generally used to form these stitches.
  • See also Covering stitch
    		•
    Coverstock Term used to describe a permeable fabric, used in hygiene products to cover and contain an absorbent medium.
    Covert fabric
  • Traditional, medium to heavy, warp-faced, rugged structure, clear finished, tightly woven twill fabric, of wool or worsted, made with two different shades of the same colour, which produce a mottled or speckled beige effect. The warp is two-ply (one light and the other dark) and weft single-ply (dark or same as warp). The fabric wears exceptionally well and has a smart appearance. Used mainly for men’s overcoating. Now, covert cloth is made also in cotton, viscose and acetate with the characteristic speckled effect, which are lighter in weight and are used for suits and raincoats. It is also made waterproof and used a great deal in rainwear.
  • Mottled appearance is obtained by the use of grandrelle or mock grandrelle warp ends.
    • Cover-up  General term used to describe a loose outer garment.
    Cowboy boot  Boot made with a high arch, a high Cuban heel, and usually fancy stitching
    Cowboy hat
    Synonym: Ten-gallon hat    		 Wide-brimmed hat with a large soft crown.
    Cow hair Hair obtained from cows, which find usage mainly in coarse carpets, blankets, felted goods, etc
    Cowhide Leather of cowhide, used for the manufacture of ready-made apparels.
    Cowl  Hood or long hooded cloak especially of a monk.
    Cowl neck Neckline featuring a piece of material attached to a garment at the neck, which may be used as a hood or draped loosely in a swag from shoulder to shoulder at the front neckline or
    Coxcomb  Jester's traditional cap adorned with a strip of red.
    Crabbing
  • Finishing process used in the woollen and worsted trade to set the fabric, at a desired width permanently, in a smooth, flat, state so that it will not crease, cockle, pucker, wrinkle or irregular surface effect and uneven shrinkage, during subsequent wet processing or afterwards. Various application methods, making use of heat and moisture are in practice; some of them being: a) treating the fabric in open width, with warp-way tension, in a hot or boiling aqueous medium, the tension being maintained while the fabric is cooling, (b) passing the fabric over cylinders that rotates in hot water and then immersing quickly in a coldwater bath. The goods are held firmly and tightly to prevent wrinkling. Repetition of the treatment with increased pressure sets the cloth and the finish and (c) a simple and popular method is subjecting the fabric to steam blowing.
  • Practice of employing lustrous weft yarns to cover the surface of a fabric, e.g. a cotton-warp/mohair-weft fabric.
    		•
    Crack Fabric defect. In bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a sharp break or crease in the surface contour of either the face fabric or the backing fabric that becomes evident when the bonded, fused, or laminated composite is rolled, bent, draped, or folded.
    Crackers Yarn defect, which manifests as a short, thick places in a cotton yarn shaped by tightly twisted small clusters of short broken fibres.
    Crack mark
    Synonym: Broken weave; Open place; Thin spot; Shier    		 Fabric defect, which manifests as a narrow streak, running parallel with the warp or weft threads, characterised mainly by the existence of a space between two adjacent threads. This is caused usually by mechanical defects in the loom, such as a loose crank-arm or crankshaft bearing, banging-off a bent reed wire, etc.
    Cramming In weaving, the practice of placing more than the normal number of warp ends in one dent of the reed. The usual purpose is to give a raised or fancy effect. With the same object it may also be done in the weft, to insert more picks per unit length for a period.
    Crammed fabric
  • Fabric that has been subjected to cramming, in which a part of the fabric contains more threads per unit space, than in another part of the fabric. This is achieved warp wise by using a greater number of ends through one dent of the reed in loom, or weft wise by slowing or stopping the take-up motion on certain picks. The effect is used mostly on borders and stripes.
  • Fabric defect. Cramming is a defect when it happens accidentally or by mistake.
    		•
    Cramoisie  Term used to describe a colour of crimson pink.
    Cramping
    Synonym: Cold processing     		Term used to describe, the practice of employing a final pressing, with no heat, in the finishing of woollen and worsted goods.
    Crape See Crêpe
    Craquant French term for scroop.
    Crash Plain, twill or fancy crêpe weave fabric, in linen, cotton, viscose or blends and having a coarse texture due to the thick uneven yarns used in the weft. It is very rugged and substantial in feel. Traditionally, it is creamy beige. Made in various weights and used in towelling, draperies, curtains, table linen. Softer weave woollen crash is used widely for dresses, fashion suitings and embroidery.
    Crash towel Plain weave non-terry product with hems or selvedges, which has a rough texture caused by uneven yarns.
    Craua See Caroa
    Cravat Term used to describe a broad piece of cloth or lace, which is knotted or tied around the neck.
    Cravat string Term used to describe a ribbon used to tie a heavy lace cravat in place.
    Craze See Fashion
    Crazy cloth Cotton fabric characterised by having woven or printed patterns comprising of numerous colours and various shapes in asymmetrical repeat.
    CRE Acronym for Constant rate of extension
    Cream In textile parlance, a very pale yellow colour.
    Creamed linen Term used to describe a partially bleached linen yarn.
    Crease Fold, line, or crease mark deliberately added to a fabric by folding, pressing or both to give a desirable appearance feature such as fashion rightness, usefulness and minimum care. Not to be confused with pleat or wrinkle.
    Crease mark Fabric defect, evidenced by a break, line, or mark in a fabric generally caused by a sharp fold or a visible deformation left in a fabric after a crease has been incompletely removed during fabric processing. Often discoloration in the area is a problem. The defect is usually considered major for fashion outerwear and as minor for underwear.
    Crease recovery Term used to describe the measure of crease resistance, specified quantitatively in terms of crease recovery angle.
    Crease resistance Term used to describe the resistance to, and/or recovery from, creasing of a textile material during use.
    Crease resistant finish Acronym: CRF
  • Group different chemical finishes employed on cotton, other cellulosic fibres and blend fabrics to impart them, the property of resistance to creasing and smooth drying. Often based on resin type finishes such as durable press. In the process used most widely, the fabric is impregnated with the solution of a reagent and then cured. The reagent, which has already penetrated inside of the fibres, cross-links the fibre structure during curing and drying under the influence of a catalyst and heat. The crease-resistant effect is durable to washing and normal usage.
  • Of late, some fabrics are being made highly resistant to creasing through innovations in fibre blending and construction.
    		•
    Crease retention
  • Ability of a fabric to retain a fold, pleat or crease, which has been intentionally inserted, usually by a heat treatment. Heat-setting thermoplastic fibres such as nylon and polyester, causes creases to be permanently set.
  • See also Appearance of creases
    • Crease retention test Process of comparing and quantifying the visual impression of an inserted crease against a set of reference standards.
    Crease streak Fabric defect in tubular knits, which manifests as a dyed-in mark of a crease, usually along the length direction, of a lighter colour within the crease area, and often with edges darker than the adjacent normal fabric. It is usually the result of, the fabric in creased form, passing through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process. The defect is usually considered major for fashion outerwear, and minor for underwear.
    Credits Modelling term, used to describe a model’s credits consisting of the paid jobs he/she has completed successfully.
    Creel Heavy metal frame used for holding supply packages in textile processing. The supply packages like cones of yarn are mounted on it in such a manner, where many ends could be unwound, without twisting or entanglement, towards the beam or also towards the warp-knitting machine. Yarn withdrawal may be either over-end from stationary packages, or unrolling from revolving packages. Usually yarn-control, during withdrawal from the package, is provided.
    Creeling Term used to describe the operation of filling or refilling a creel. Delivery bobbins are put on the creel in order to allow yarn feeding for the process of beaming or warping.
    Creep See Delayed deformation
    Creepere One-piece garment usually made for a child at the crawling age.
    Crêpe Term refers to a variety of lightweight fabrics, characterised by an all over crinkled, puckered or pebbly surface. Crêpe, the distinctive surface texture can be produced by various methods, which include the innovative employment of hard twisted S and Z yarns, chemical treatments, special weaves, unusual constructions, some forms of embossing or other surface treatments. The chemical or thermal treatment, imparts differential shrinkage in the finished fabric. The word comes from the French word ‘creper’ meaning to crimp or frizz. Crêpes are made from an unlimited variety of fibres including natural, synthetic, mixtures or blends, in many different constructions. Crêpe comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. A special type of crêpe effect is achieved by printing of patterns with some chemical pastes, which cause puckering of the treated parts in the fabric. Most crêpe fabrics are fairly crisp and have a type of springy handle. Varieties include crepe-back satin, crepe de chine and georgette. The crêpe technique is widely used as a variation of ordinary fabric types. Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits coats, etc. and also for home furnishings.
    Crepe See wool for general notes. They all have a pebbled, rough feel and appearance. Yarns have a high twist in the filling or the warp or both. Most crepes launder well with care.
    Crepe-back Satin Satin-back Crepe, Crepe Satin, Or Satin Crepe Satin weave on the face and a crepe effect on the back obtained with twisted crepe yarns in the filling - 2 or 3 times as many ends as picks per inch. It is a soft fabric, which is reversible. It is usually piece dyed. Very interesting effects can be obtained in a garment by using both sides, in different parts, e.g. the crepe side for the body and trim or binding with the satin part up.
    Uses: Dresses, blouses, linings, after 5 wear.
    Crêpe-back Satin Soft, reversible, satin weave fabric, woven from highly twisted crêpe weft yarns. Usually silk or polyester yarns used; often piece dyed. The low twist floating yarns may be either of high or low lustre. When the crêpe effect is the right side of the fabric, it is called ‘satin-back crêpe’. Very interesting effects can be obtained in a garment by using both sides, in different parts. Used for dresses, blouses, linings, eveningwear, wedding-dresses, etc.
    Crêpe charmeuse Rich, smooth, minimum lustre, fairly stiff, silk crêpe fabric; it drapes well, but clings. Now also made in polyester. Used for eveningwear.
    Crêpe cord
    Synonym: Moss cord     		Cord comprising two to four strands, each in turn comprising a core covered by several fine threads in an acute helix, over-wrapped in the opposite direction by a strong thread, giving a soft crêpe or special effect. Two or more strands are laid together to complete the cord.
    Crêpe de Chine
  • Pure, fine, very soft, luxurious silk crêpe fabric, originally from China. Plain weave, with a softly twisted filament warp and a very highly twisted filament weft; alternate pairs of weft yarns in ‘S’ and ‘Z’ twist. During the finishing process the weft yarns kink and crinkle on the fabric. Fairly crisp, matt finish fabric with very good draping properties, thanks to the softly twisted warp.  Expensive and may be in plain colours or printed. Used for blouses, shirts, dresses, and lingerie. It was widely used for lingerie before the widespread use of nylon locknit for this purpose. A cheaper form of crêpe de chine is made from viscose rayon weft and cellulose acetate warp, which is used for blouses and linings.
  • Traditional plain woven, finely crinkled fabric made from a silk warp and crêpe twisted silk weft, woven in the gum condition and afterwards degummed and piece-dyed.
  • Crêpe fabrics made from synthetic fibres can be, in appearance, almost indistinguishable from silk, and although not strictly correct, these are usually labelled polyester crêpe de Chine, acetate/nylon crêpe de Chine, viscose crêpe de Chine’, etc.
    		•
    Crepe de Chine Silk warp and crepe twist silk filling 25 x 22. More ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand and considerable lustre. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to manipulate and handle. Very long wearing. Most of it launders well. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy crepe de chine is called ‘Canton crepe’ which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon.
    Crêpe effect weave
  • Weave that produce coarse pebbly effect by having warp and weft yarns interlace at a random distribution of floats so as to produce an ‘all-over’ effect in the fabric to disguise the repeat. The weave is free from the lines found in ribs or twills, etc.
  • See also Woven Crêpe
    • Crêpe embossing See Embossed crêpe
    Crêpe Fabric Term refers to a variety of lightweight fabrics, characterised by an all over crinkled, puckered or pebbly surface. The distinctive surface texture can be obtained by employing various means. The methods include, the innovative employment of hard twist S and Z yarns, chemical treatments, special weaves, unusual constructions, some forms of embossing or other surface treatments. The chemical or thermal treatment, imparts differential shrinkage in the finished fabric. Crêpes are made from an unlimited variety of fibres, including natural, synthetic, mixtures or blends, in many different constructions. A type of crêpe effect is achieved by printing of patterns with some chemical pastes, which cause puckering of the treated parts in the fabric. Most crêpe fabrics are fairly crisp and have a type of springy handle. Used for apparel or home furnishings. Varieties include crepe-back satin, crepe de chine and georgette. The crêpe technique is widely used as a variation of ordinary fabric types.
    Crêpe georgette Sheer, dull-textured fabric like georgette but with a crêpe surface. May be polyester, cotton, viscose or silk. Used for blouses and dresses.
    Crêpe marocain Similar to Canton crêpe type, but heavier. Fibres include polyamide, polyester, silk. Used for evening and bridal wear.
    Crêpe romain Heavy, semi-sheer crêpe in 2/1 basket weave in dull finish rayon. Used for evening and bridal wear.
    Crêpe satin Fabric featuring hard twisted weft yarns in alternate ‘S’ twist and ‘Z’ twist which cause a crinkling of the smooth surface giving a more subdued lustre.
    Crêpe suzette See Crêpon georgette
    Crêpe twist Yarn with high twist used to obtain puckering or crinkling by shrinkage, corded or other effects. Crêpe twist is stiff and wiry and contracts in length, during finishing. Crêpe in continuous filaments is produced by a throwing operation.
    Crêpe weave Weave having a random distribution of floats so as to produce an ‘all-over’ effect in the fabric to disguise the repeat.
    Crêpey General term used to describe a fabric with a pebble like texture.
    Crêpe yarn
  • High twist yarn, which find usage in the production of crêpe fabrics.
  • Balanced yarn meant for hand knitting. It has a plaited manifestation, which is usually achieved by twisting together three or four, two-plied yarns with ‘ZSZ’ twists. 
    • Crêping Wet treatment, which permits the slackening of the strain of highly twisted crêpe yarns in a fabric and thus develops a characteristic crêpe effect. Sometimes this type of effect is achieved also by chemical treatment.
    Crepoline Wispy, translucent dress fabric usually made from cotton, silk or wool; contains slightly lustrous warp yarns.
    Crêpon
  • Heavy crêpe effect, which usually shows in the warp direction, in the form of random deep crinkles, giving a tree-bark effect; achieved by usage of alternate ‘S’ and ‘Z’ twists, or slack, tension, or different degrees of twist. Usually cotton, but at times may contain some polyester, viscose or silk. It is much heavier and more rugged than the average crêpe.
  • Soft, absorbent and comfortable fabric made not from crêpe yarns; but from chemically crimped yarns. It is soft, absorbent and comfortable in wear because it ‘gives’.
  • Cheaper version of crêpon, produced by emboss techniques. Used for nightwear, blouses, softly gathered summer dresses and men’s casual shirts.
    		•
    Crepon Crepe effect appears in direction of the warp and achieved by alternate S and Z, or slack, tension, or different degrees of twist. Originally a wool crepe but now made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and more rugged than the average crepe. Has a wavy texture with the ‘waves’ running in a lengthwise direction. Mostly used for prints.
    Uses: Dresses and ensembles.
    Crêpon georgette
    Synonym: Crêpe suzette    		 Georgette fabric, in which all weft yarns employed have the same direction of twist.
    Cretan stitch Term used to describe an adaptation of the featherstitch, done by taking shorter underneath stitches so that it fashions a braided effect.
    Cretonne fabric Light to medium weight plain or printed cotton fabric, woven with a fine cotton warp and a thick weft, spun from waste cotton. The weave may be plain or twill. Usually a neutral ground and brightly coloured floral designs, similar to chintz but with a dull finish and sometimes heavier. Can be also made of linen, viscose or blends. A drapery and slip cover fabric first made by a Frenchman of the same name. Used for curtains, upholstery, loose covers, draperies and bedcovers.
    Crewel embroidery Embroidery done with loosely twisted two plied worsted yarn.
    Crewel fabric Pile fabric having two types of weft yarns; silk picks for piles and cotton picks for the back.
    Crewel yarn Fine, two plied, loose twist, worsted yarn. Common applications are embroidery and ‘crewel lace’.
    Crew Neck 
  • Rounded collar with ribbed banding that fits close to the base of the neck.
  • Sweater with a crew neck, namely a round collarless neckline.
    		•
    Crew sock  Short bulky and usually ribbed sock.
    CRF See Crease resistant finish
    Cricketing fabric Fine, twilled flannel dress fabric, used for sportswear. 
    Crimp
  • Very distinguishing feature of waviness in a fibre. Waviness observed in wool is natural and innate whereas in manmade fibres it is an attribute imparted during manufacture or after. This may be expressed numerically as the crimp frequency or as the difference between the lengths of the straightened and crimped fibre, expressed as a percentage of the straightened length.
  • In wool, the frequency and uniformity of crimp decides its quality. The higher frequency, qualifies it as better quality wool and the better uniformity makes it exceptional. On crimping, manmade fibres acquire a wool-like texture and bulky warm handling.
  • In fabric, curvature that develops in the warp and weft yarns while it is being woven. In simple terms it is the wavy distortion of a yarn that is due to interlacing in the fabric. In woven fabrics, the crimp is measured by the relation between the length of the fabric sample and the corresponding length of yarn when it is removed from there and straightened under suitable tension.
  • In continuous-element zipper, the predetermined formation of the monofilament cross-section at the point where the continuous element is interlocked.  
  • See Crimp percentage; Crimp ratio
    		•
    Crimp balance Condition of a fabric when the crimp in both warp and weft are equal.
    Crimp contraction
    Synonym:Crimp retraction    		 Term used to describe the crimp capacity or an attribute of a yarn’s ability to contract under tension. The contraction in length of a previously textured yarn from the fully extended state (where the filaments are substantially straightened), owing to the formation of crimp in individual filaments under specified conditions of crimp development It is expressed as a percentage of the extended length.
    Crimped fabric Fabric having a crimped effect, which is produced by the interlacing of wavy or distorted yarns. In woven fabrics, the crimp is measured by the relation between the length of the fabric sample and the corresponding length of yarn when it is removed from there and straightened under suitable tension. Crimp may be expressed numerically.
    Crimped fibre
  • Fibre having waviness or distortions in its shape. This fibre characteristic may be expressed numerically as the crimp frequency or as the difference between the lengths of the straightened and crimped fibre, expressed as a percentage of the straightened length.
  • See also Crimp frequency
    		•
    Crimped length
  • Distance between the ends of a fibre when substantially freed from external restraint, measured with respect to its general axis of orientation.
  • See also Fibre length; Commercial fibre length
    		•
    Crimped loop ruche Loop ruche, the weft for which has been passed through a crimping machine.
    Crimped viscose fibre Modified viscose fibre, in which the fibres are crimped deeply and permanently during manufacture so that the crimp is actually built-in. These fibres have a wool-like texture and bulky warm handling.
    Crimped viscose twill Bulked viscose yarn woven into plain colourfabric of medium weight. Bulking adds warmth. Fabric creases slightly. Has a soft feel rather like flannelette. Used for children’s clothes, nightwear.
    Crimped yarn
  • Thermoplastic yarn subjected to crimping, having relatively low elastic stretch, usually below 20%, and often characterised by a high saw-tooth type crimp or curl.
  • Non-thermoplastic yarn subjected to crimping, having irregular crimp and relatively high elastic stretch but low-power contraction.
    		•
    Crimp energy Amount of effort required for un-crimping a fibre. 
    Crimp factor Factor, which expresses the change in length, caused by crimping.
    Crimp frequency
  • Number of full waves or crimps in a length of fibre, divided by the straightened length.
  • Crimp level or number of crimps per unit length in yarn or tow band. 
    • Crimping, yarn See Yarn crimping
    Crimp Interchange Term used to describe the transfer of crimp from warp to weft or vice versa.
    Crimp, latent See Latent crimp
    Crimp percentage
  • Numerical expression of crimp. Fabric length divided by 100 and multiplied with the difference between the yarn length and the fabric length, in which the fabric length is the denominator.
  • See also Crimp ratio  
    • Crimp ratio
  • Method of numerically expressing crimp. The ratio of yarn length to the fabric length, in which the fabric length is the denominator.
  • See also Crimp percentage
    		•
    Crimp recovery Measure of the ability of a yarn to return to its original crimped state after being subjected to tension.
    Crimp retraction See Crimp contraction
    Crimp rigidity test Crimp withdrawal test, for the testing of false-twist textured nylon yarns.
    Crimp-set yarn Yarn that has been made to acquire permanent waviness, by subjecting it to a heat setting process.  
    Crimp stability Capability of a textured yarn to defy the reduction of its crimp by mechanical and/or thermal stress. Crimp stability is normally expressed as the ratio of values of crimp retraction measured before and after a specified mechanical and/or thermal treatment of the yarn.
    Crimp tester Device consisting of two clamps that can trap each end of a crimped piece of thread. The clamps are slid apart until a certain loading is achieved, and the length of the thread is then ascertained. The crimp tester is used in the analysis of knitted fabrics, to measure the course length and loop length.
    Crimson  Term used to describe any of several deep purplish reds.
    Crinkle Term is sometimes used to describe the waviness of a spinning fibre such as viscose staple.
    Crinkle crêpe See Plissé
    Crinkled Term used to describe a fabric, which has been subjected to a crinkling process.
    Crinkling Term used to describe an uneven, wrinkle or puckered effect on the fabric surface. The effect can be achieved by a variety of mechanical or chemical finishes, or through the use of high twist yarns.
    Crinoline
  • Lightweight, plain weave, heavily sized fabric, with an open construction i.e. very few yarns used in both directions. Originally made from linen warp and horsehair weft, it is now produced from all sorts of fibres. The stiffened fabric is used for supporting hoop skirts or hem edges, as linings, interlinings and in the hat and bookbinding trades.
  • Traditional petticoat made of crinoline fabric to enable a bell-like skirt.
    • Crisp Term used to describe a fabric having a smooth, clean surface, good body, and a relatively firm hand, which may make noise when rustled.
    Crisp finish Finishing treatment applied on sheer fabrics with thermosetting resins, which imparts a crisp handle and transparency. Employed on organdie and also on viscose and nylon sheer.
    Critical application value Acronym: CAV Term used to describe, in a low wet-pickup, easy-care finishing system, the amount of finishing liquor, which must be applied to a given fabric to avoid a non-uniform distribution of cross-linking after drying and curing
    Critical defect Defect that could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using or maintaining the product as well as defects contravening legal regulations.
    Critical pressing Term used to describe the pressing of garments prior to the deferred cure process. Accurate, automatic controls for steam, heat, and pressure is needed to make a neat and good-looking garment. If a crease is not good pressed flat and sharp before curing, it will not be sharp and flat after curing. If wrinkles are pressed in by mistake, they will later be cured and cannot be removed.
    CRL Acronym for Constant rate of loading
    Croa See Caroa
    Crochet Continuous sequence of loops of yarn made by a single hooked needle. The resultant product can take a great variety of forms.
    Crocheting Manufacturing process of fabric, trimming, lace etc by interlocking successive loops or stitches with a hook or needle. In knitting, the entire series of loops that go to form one length, round, or circumference are retained on one or more needles while a new series is formed on a separate needle. May be done by hand or by machine.
    Crochet knit fabric Fancy, openwork, knit fabric often produced in traditional designs resembling aran. The fabric usually made in a variety of colours and patterns. It resembles crochet but is actually made on a knitting machine, which works on the same principle of a Rashel machine; however, they are narrower and the needles are generally horizontal. Mainly made from acrylic, but may be made from any man-made fibre. Used for sweaters, shirts, dresses, braids, trims and scarves.
    Crochet lace Hand-made lace, produced with a crochet hook, usually in medallion patterns on a mesh ground.
    Crochette Simulated crochet fabric having a pattern of open or hole designs on a background of jersey. Produced by selective knitting, tucking and casting off in the knitting operation.
    Crock See Crocking
    Crocking
    Synonym: Rubbing
  • Term used to describe, the tendency for transfer of a colour from the surface of a coloured textile material to an adjacent area of the same material or to another surface principally by rubbing action in dry and wet conditions. In simple terms, it is the tendency of excess dyes to rub off. If unintentional it is considered a defect. Crocking can be the result of lack of penetration of the dyeing agent, the use of incorrect dyes or dyeing procedures, or the lack of proper washing procedures and finishing treatments after the dyeing process. Napped and pile fabrics in deep colours are most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking.
  • Compare Colour staining
    • Crock fastness Resistance to colour migration from the thread to the fabric due to rubbing. This is particularly important in contrast stitching applications.
    Crock meter Apparatus for evaluating the colourfastness to crocking or rubbing of dyed or printed textiles. White cloth on a weighted projecting finger is rubbed over the surface of dyed or printed material. Amount of colour transfer is compared with standard evaluation scales.
    Crocodile Skin of crocodile characterised by its square boxy markings. Can be distinguished from alligator by the fact that the markings are more uneven. It is very difficult to tan and is very expensive. Used for top quality shoes and handbags.
    Crocodile cloth Term used to describe a woollen or worsted fabric woven in a weave similar to Bedford cord.
    Crocodolite See under Asbestos
    Crofting Term used to describe the twist inserted to a raw silk when reeled from the cocoon.
    Croiseure Term used to describe the twist inserted to a raw silk when reeled from the cocoon.
    Crooked cloth
    Synonym: Baggy cloth; Ridgy cloth; Wavy cloth
  • Fabric defect, which manifests as a fabric that would not lie flat on a cutting table, usually due to sections of tight or loose yarns either in warp or weft.
  • Compare Tight pick
    		•
    Cropped
  • Closely sheared fabric, in which the nap is quiet subdued.
  • Staple finish applied to woollen fabrics such as melton, kersey, beaver cloth, and some broadcloth.
    • Cropped garment A garment top or jacket, the hem of which is cut just above the waist.
    Cropped terry pile See underVelour
    Cropping
    Synonym: Shearing     		Dry-finishing operation used usually employed on all woollen and worsted goods to cut away or level the fibre pile or nap, which has previously been raised.
    Crop top 
  • Women's very short top ending just below the breasts.
  • Tank-style brassiere cropped to midriff length.
    • Cross-back width See Back width
    Cross ball warping See under Warping
    Cross bar Fabric design made with cords at regular intervals in both warp and weft to produce a checkerboard pattern.
    Cross blended yarn Single yarn spun from a blend or mixture of different kinds of fibres, e.g. wool and viscose staple, cotton and acetate staple or wool and cotton staple.
    Cross border dobby Dobby design regulated by any one of two or more pattern chains in the weaving of borders or hems across the fabric. 
    Crossbred fabric Term used to describe a fabric made from crossbred wool yarns. These are further classified as fine, medium and low.
    Crossbred wool
  • Term used to describe the type of wool comprising various qualities ranging from about 75 to 200mm in length. The crossbred wool is thicker, longer, not as soft, nor as crimpy as fine wools. It comes from many breeds of sheep mainly breeds crossed with Merino sheep, and represent types of sheep deliberately bred both for wool and meat. Crossbred wool is used for wool fabrics where economy, extra strength, resilience, lustre and durability are more important than fineness and softness.
  • A term sometimes loosely applied to describe wool, tops, yarns or fabrics produced from of medium quality wools.
    • Cross-chest width In body measurements, the distance from front break point to back-point.
    Cross cloth See Forehead cloth
    Cross cut Term used to describe a corduroy fabric, which has the pile cut in a weft-wise direction, forming squares or rectangles on the surface.
    Cross dye effect Fabric defect, which manifests as variation in shade of colour on textile material caused by the accidental mix-up of fibres having inherently different dye affinities or dye pick-up between fibres.
    Cross-dyed Multicoloured fabric that has been coloured by cross dyeing method.
    Cross-dyed over-printed A cross-dyed fabric that has also has a design printed on it.
    Cross-dyeing Innovative method of dyeing a fabric made with strategically placed yarns of two or more different fibres, having inherently different dye affinities between them, to achieve a multicoloured effect. The method may be used to accomplish heather effects where both fibres are present in the same yarn or to accomplish pattern effects where yarns of different fibres are combined in a desired pattern.
    Crossed twills Term used to describe the effect produced by intersecting twill weaves.  
    Crossing SeeCob webbing
    Crossing warp In leno weave, the warp ends that cross companion yarns before the pick is inserted.
    Cross Lapping
    Synonym: Cross laying    		 Process of manufacturing a non-woven web or batt from a fibre-web by traversing it to and fro across a conveyor, moving at right angles to the traverse direction.
    Cross laying See Cross lapping
    Cross linked cellulose Modified cellulose, produced by the development of chemical bonds between the individual cellulose molecules. When cotton is cross-linked, it becomes wrinkle resistant and easy drying.
    Cross-linking Creation of chemical bonds between polymer molecules to form a three-dimensional polymeric network, e.g. in a fibre or in a pigment binder. This generally restricts swelling and alters elastic recovery.    
    Cross-linking agent Chemical, usually a resin, which reacts with a fibre and produce an enduring bond or link. When cured in the fabric, it imparts the fabric, whether shaped or flat, a memory of its form achieved by curing.
    Cross-over fabric Fabric having stripes, across the width, produced by weft yarns or weave effects.
    Cross-plated fabric
  • Knitted fabric, produced by combining a plated face stitch, knit on one set of needles, and an adjacent plated reverse stitch, knit in the same course on the other set of needles; the relative positions of the face yarn and the back yarn in the face stitch being interchanged in the reverse stitch.
  • See also Plated fabric
    • Cross pocket Term used to describe a pocket, which lies horizontally or at an oblique angle from the horizontal. In trousers, the pocket mouth can run from the waistband on the front to a point on the side seam. 
    Cross section Term used to describe the shape or shapes, which could be seen if the fibre, yarn or fabric were cut across their length and viewed in or under a microscope.
    Cross stitch
    Synonym: Marking stitch    		 Hand stitch, the formation of which begins on the left and consists in passing the needle alternately on and off the edge slightly through the material and in advance of the last stitch. Used as a substitute for felling or for ornamentation of raw edges.
    Cross-stitch canvas
    Synonym: Penelope canvas    		 Stiff open mesh canvas fabric used for fine cross-stitched embroidery.
    Cross stripes Stripes in a woven fabric that run in weft wise direction.
    Cross tuck See Plain weft-knit cross-tuck; Rib weft-knit cross-tuck; Weft-knit cross-tuck
    Cross weaving Term used to describe the weave, in which some warp yarns are made to cross other warp yarns in addition to interlacing with the weft yarns.
    Cross-wise fold Crease in a fabric produced by folding the cloth crosswise.
    Cross-wound package Package of sliver or yarn; the package is characterised by the large crossing angles of the helixes.
    Crotch In anatomy, body area adjacent to the vertex of the included angle between the legs.
    Crotch height See Inside-leg length
    Crow Twill weave in which the warp or weft predominates, e.g. three up and one down (‘warp crow’) or one down and three up (‘weft crow’).
    Crowfoot
  • Term used to describe, the small sized colour-and-weave effect in a fabric, produced by a combination of a matt weave and a specific order of colouring in warp and weft.
  • In knitting, a puckering effect, usually in the heel or toe of a circular-knit hosiery and generally associated with the suture line.
    		•
    Crown
  • Royal or imperial headdress or cap of sovereignty.
  • In anatomy, the top of the head.
    • Crowns Term used to describe, various points in a woven fabric, where the fabric manifest as protrusions on the fabric surface.
    Crow’s feet Fabric defect, which manifests variously as breaks in fabric, fine wrinkles, staining of varying degrees of intensity, size, and shape, which occur during the wet processing of fabrics.
    Crow twill
    Synonym: Crow weave; Broken crow; Four harness broken twill; Four harness satin twill    		 Term used to describe a twill weave, in which either warp or weft is given predominance, and usually made from wool and worsted yarns. A broken-twill weave one-up and three-down or three-up and one-down with two ends to the right and two ends to the left.
    Crow weave See Crow twill
    Croze marks Processing defect, which manifests as crease marks seen on hat hoods, often developed during the wet processing operations.  
    CRT Acronym for Constant rate of traverse
    Cru See Écru
    Crumb cloth Stiff, heavy damask fabric, in grey made for embroidery.
    Crumbs Term used to describe, shredded alkali-cellulose.
    Crush cutting Method employed in the conversion of filament tows to staple fibres, in which the filaments in a tow are severed by crushing it between an anvil roller and a cutting roller having raised blades helically disposed around its surface.
    Crushed finish Fabric finish employed to create a planned irregular disturbance on the surface of the fabric, usually by mechanical means.
    Crush resistant Finish employed on pile fabrics, such as corduroy or velvet, to improve the ability of the piles to spring back to its original shape after being subjected to crushing or pressure.  
    Crutch Crotch; Fork Term used to describe, the area in a garment, between the legs at which the inside leg seams are joined.
    Crutchings Term used to describe badly discoloured wool obtained from the belly part; comparatively cheaper.
    Crystal fabric
    Synonym: Crystalline fabric    		 Dress fabric, having fine and heavy ribs alternately, made of silk warp and wool weft.
    Crystalina Plastisol Printing process, in which specialty inks are used to give the prints a multi-colour ‘pearlescent’ appearance when printed directly on light coloured garments or over a flashed colour. Crystalina is also be used for producing cold peel transfers.
    Crystalline areas Term used to describe areas in a fibre, where the molecules are regularly packed.
    Crystalline fabric See Crystal fabric
    Crystallinity Term used to describe the degree, to which fibre molecules are parallel to each other, though not necessarily to the longitudinal fibre axis. In other words, it is the three-dimensional order in the arrangement of atoms and molecules within a chemical phase. Generally when polymers crystallize, in the product consists of regions of crystallite high order, regions of amorphous low order and regions of intermediate order.
    Crystal yarn Term used to describe a flat film acetate yarn.
    CSP See Count strength product
    Cuff In a garment, lower part of the sleeve, which at the wrist usually has a plain, turned in edge. If turned up it may be described as ‘gauntlet cuff’.
    Cuirass Piece of plate armour for the front of the thigh.
    Cuisse Piece of plate armour for the front of the thigh.
    Cuite Term used to describe silk that has been completely degummed.
    Culet Plate armour covering the buttocks.
    Cultivated Term used to describe, silk fabrics made from cultivated silk, as distinguished from wild silk.
    Culottes Term usually used in plural, to describe a rather tight divided skirt or a garment having a divided skirt.
    Cummerbund Broad waistband usually worn in place of a vest with men's dress clothes and adapted in various styles of women's clothes.
    Cup  Athletic supporter reinforced usually with plastic to provide added protection for the wearer.
    Cupra fibre Term used originally to describe fibres of regenerated cellulose manufactured by the cuprammonium process. Now, the preferred classification for these fibres is cupro fibre.
    Cuprammonium process Method of manufacturing for regenerated viscose fibre. The wood pulp or cotton liners are dissolved in an ammoniac copper oxide solution.
    Cuprammonium viscose See Cupro fibre
    Cupro fibre
    Synonym:  Cuprammonium viscose     		Generic term used to describe fibres of regenerated cellulose obtained by the cuprammonium process. The fibre is very soft silky, characterised by extra fineness and strength, attractive handle, subdued lustre and good draping properties. Cupro is the most ‘silk-like’ of all cellulosic yarns and in general, it is more expensive than other man-made cellulosic yarns.
    Cup seaming
  • Operation of joining two pieces of knit fabric on a selvedge-to-selvedge basis by means of a chain stitch produced on a sewing machine in which the fabrics are moved forward between revolving feed cups.
  • See also Linking
    		•
    Curch Scottish term for a kerchief.
    Curcuma Term used to refer a fabric having a yellow colour similar to that produced by the ‘curcuma’ spice.
    Cure See Curing
    Curing
  • Process carried out after the application of a finish to a textile fabric in which appropriate conditions are used to effect a chemical reaction. Heat, usually 140°C and above, is applied on fabrics which have been treated with resin-forming or other chemicals, or on synthetic fabrics alone, to impart properties such as crease-retention, water-repellence, wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability and durable press. Customarily the heat treatment continues for several minutes. When properly cured, the fabric acquires qualities that are durable through many washings and dry cleanings.
  • See also Flash curing; Moist curing; Memory sensitised; Polymerisation; Vulcanisation 
    • Curing tape Woven narrow fabric, usually a twill, used in the rubber hose industry to stabilise the dimensions of flexible tubes during hot processing.
    Curl See Kink
    Curled pile Carpet pile, in which curls have been induced by over-twist or by other means.
    Curled selvedge
    Synonym:Double selvedge; Turned-over edge; Folded selvedge; Rolled selvedge     		Fabricdefect, which is self-descriptive. There can be many reasons for this defect, such as weft yarn with too much twist in it, an improperly set warp beam (or one that is not set at proper tension under weights), an uneven warp tension, a faulty or uneven weave repeat, etc.
    Curled yarn
    Synonym: Curl yarn; Loop yarn
  • Fancy yarn, so constructed or treated, or both, as to produce a pile with a curled effect when used in a suitable fabric construction.
  • Fancy yarn with non-uniform curls or loops appearing at intervals.
  • Textured yarn made from man-made fibre, which has been crimped.
    		•
    Curl pile Curly pile effect produced in fabrics by innovative employment of two types of yarns. A warp yarn having high shrinkage potential is closely woven with a weft yarn having very low shrinkage potential, floating loosely on the surface. When allowed to shrink during finishing, the floating weft yarn forms curls, which look like piles.
    Curl yarn See Curled yarn
    Curly cotton Term used for defective cotton, the result of ginning when too damp thus making it stringy.
    Curtain
  • Hanging drape.
  • In trousers, the pieces of fabric, usually lining, put across the top of the undersides under the waistband from side seam to seat seam.
    		•
    Curtain machine
    Synonym: Lace furnishing machine    		 Lace machine, in which threads in brass bobbins, borne in carriages, each in an allotted comb space, swing in pendulum fashion between vertical warp and pattern threads in planes at right angles to a warp sheet. The lateral movements of the warp and pattern threads are imparted by guide bars. By interaction of a jack bar and a jacquard, spring-steel jacks modify the lateral movements of selected warp and pattern threads in accordance with the requirements of the pattern.
    Curvature
  • Term used to describe the curvature of the warp and weft in a fabric.
  • See alsoBowing
    		•
    Curved twill weaves
    Synonym: Undulating twill weaves     		Group of twill weaves producing wavy twill lines by configuring the steep and/or reclining twill to perceptive curved effects. The weaves can be in one direction only or in reverse. Any type of twill weave may be employed as the basis and the same is used throughout the design.
    Curve point Leading fashion collar model; designed for a tight four-in-hand knot.
    Cushion dot Brush-like dot, that is larger and puffier than polka dot in marquisette fabric. The dots are made by one or more roving yarns, which are woven into the material and then cut close to the surface.
    Customer return   Merchandise that has been purchased at a retail level and then returned to the original store for various reasons. Some returns are defective, broken or simply returned for no apparent reason at all. A consumer might return merchandise because it was bought in haste or by impulse. In this scenario if the original packaging is not intact or missing a component the retailer will deem it 'salvaged'. Defective or broken merchandise is a tricky area; often products can be repaired if you have the skill required.
    Custom mannequin Mannequin that is especially sculpted to order for a particular customer. It may be a special head, which can be used on an existing line body, or it may be an all-new form, which will express a store's image or look. It may also refer to a very individualized makeup, finish, glaze or texture.
    Cut
  • In asbestos and glass yarns, an indirect yarn numbering system. The number of 100yard lengths of yarn per pound.
  • In woollen yarns, an indirect yarn numbering system. The number of 300yard lengths of yarn per pound.
  • In woven fabric, the length of fabric, that may vary according to type of cloth, seller, packing and shipping conditions.
  • In many weft-knitting units, a term used in to indicate the number per inch in a needle bed. Used interchangeably with ‘gauge’ in warp knitting.
  • In knitting, a notional indication of the number of needles per unit length, along a needle bed or needle bar, of a knitting machine; the higher the number, the finer the texture or fineness of the fabric. Also called ‘gauge’.
  • In knitting, the dimension, usually thickness, of the needles or other loop-forming elements of a knitting machine. Low gauge number indicates coarse needles. Also called ‘gauge’.
    		•
    Cut and sew Term used to describe, a manufacturing system for garments, in which the shaped pieces are cut from a layer of fabric and then stitched together. In case of tubular knit fabric, the cloth is either cut down one side and opened up into a flat fabric or left as a tube and cut to shape.
    Cutaway Coat with skirts tapering from the front waistline to form tails at the back
    Cut-away backing See under Backing
    Cut crimped ruche
  • Cut ruche, weft of which has been passed through a crimping machine.
  • See also Ruche
    		•
    Cut goods Term used to describe knit fabrics, flat or tubular, made in piece lengths and cut up for manufacture of hosiery items.
    Cuticle Surface layer of animal hair fibres, consisting of flat overlapping scales
    Cut listing See Cut selvedge
    Cut-loop pile Carpet pile formed during manufacture by loops and tufts of different lengths or of the same length.
    Cut, Make and trim Acronym: CMT In garment industry, the practice of a contractor being supplied with materials and designs in order to produce garments for a principal. Covers the cutting of patterns and fabric, assembling the cut parts into a garment, final operations and decorations of the finished garment, including sewing of buttons and other trims and accessories, and the final finishing details that make the item ready for sale.
    Cut mark Mark employed on a weaver’s warp of a definite length of material, normally a piece length or a part of a piece length.
    Cut-offs 
  • In plain or rib weave fabrics, one or more ends, in which separate end underscore the division between the edge and body weave in a ribbon.
  • In zippers, the measurement of a separate element from the head side to the pocket side of the legs
    		•
    Cut pick See Broken pick
    Cut-pile
  • In a woven fabric pile is cut during weaving, with cutting wires or reciprocating knife blades, or cut in a separate finishing operation.   
  • Carpet pile consisting of legs of tufts or individual fibres.
    		•
    Cut-pile floor covering Piled floor covering in which the pile is composed of tufts in the form of cut loops.
    Cut rubber yarn Yarn formed entirely by rubber, cut into size from rubber in sheet form. 
    Cut ruche Woven or knitted ruche fabric in double width and cut down the middle.
    Cut selvedge
    Synonym: Bad listing; Broken selvedge; Cut listing; Damaged selvedge; Rippled selvedge    		 Fabric defect, which manifests as cuts or breaks that occur in the selvedge only.
    Cut-shaped stitch garment See Stitch-shaped cut garment
    Cut staple
  • Term used to describe inferior cotton fibre, which has been accidentally cut during ginning due to the fibre being too damp.
  • Sometimes used improperly to describe of man-made staple fibres.
    		•
    Cut system
  • Yarn numbering system for woollen yarn. Number of 300yd. hanks of yarn in one pound.
  • See also Run system
    • Cutter In the garment industry, the person who lays out fabric in layers on a table, marks them with a pattern, and then cuts them into pieces that are then formed into garments.
    Cutting
  • Term used to describe a defect occurring in knitted fabrics, due to the cutting of yarn by the knitting elements during stitch formation and the ensuing opening of the stitches due to forced tensions.
  • See also Bursting
    • Cutting across the grain See Bias cut
    Cutting defects in garment
  • Given below is a list of probable defects that might occur in a garment, during the cutting stage:
  • Inaccurate cutting. Failure to follow the marker lines resulting in distorted garment parts. Top and bottom plies can be a different size if the straight knife is allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high a spread.
  • Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow, angled, omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric.
  • Drill marks, which are misplaced, wrong drill to suit fabric, omitted, not perpendicular through the spread.
  • Frayed edges, scorched or fused edges, caused by a faulty knife, not sharp enough, or rotating at too high a speed.
  • Knife cut. Garment part damaged by careless use of knife, perhaps overrunning cutting previous piece.
  • Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread. Garment parts have bits missing at edge of lay. If too tight or too loose then garment parts are distorted.
  • Slits opened inaccurately or omitted.
    • Cutting off-grain Practice of, cutting not in line with the grain
    Cutting on the cross See Bias cut
    Cutting straight grain Practice of cutting with the grain.
    Cuttled Fabric folded, instead of rolled. In fine fabrics, cuttling does not cause the slight unevenness in tension at the selvedges, which results from rolling.
    Cuttling
  • System of preserving fabric in slack transverse folds, usually in open width.
  • System of folding finished fabric down the middle and preserve in transverse folds as per specified lengths.
  • See also Rigging
    		•
    Cutty sark  Scottish term used to describe a short garment, especially a woman's short undergarment.
    Cut velvet
    Synonym: Beaded velvet     		Velvet fabric made on a Jacquard loom from a variety of fibres. It is characterised by the cutout pattern or pile effect, often in brilliant colours and designs. Used in eveningwear and home furnishings.
    Cut weft See Chopped weft 
    Cutwork An embroidery work, in which material is cut away and the spaces partly filled with loops and stitches. 
    Cut yarn Yarn defect, which manifests as cuts or broken places in the yarn, which may not always be apparent and the yarn may look sound.
    CV See Coefficient of variation
    CV% See Coefficient of variation unevenness
    CVC Acronym for Chief value cotton
    Cyan  In textile parlance, colour of greenish blue.
    Cyanoethylated cotton
  • Chemically modified cotton manufactured by reacting cotton material with acrylonitrile by a process called ‘cyanoethylation’. Cotton is treated with acrylonitrile and caustic soda in controlled conditions to transform cotton into a structurally different fibre. While the modified fibre retains the appearance, hand and other characteristics of cotton, it achieves improved affinity for dyes, and enhanced resistance to rot and heat.
  • See also Azoton
    • Cyclic test Series of testing operations repeated within definite limits.
    Cycle length In braided rope, the length along the axis required for a strand to make one revolution around the rope.  
    Cylinder bed In sewing machine, the cylindrically shaped bed mounted horizontally above the surface of the table to facilitate the handling and sewing of tubular articles.
    Cylinder-printing See Roller-printing
     
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