| BABY COMBING WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fine, choice wool
fibre which ranges from 11/2 to 21/2 inches in staple
length. |
Fine, choice wool
fibre which ranges from 11/2 to 21/2 inches in staple
length. The French method of combing is used to make high
grade worsted yarn from the stock. |
| BABY FLANNEL |
fabrics |
Lightweight flannel |
Lightweight flannel
used for children's garments |
| BABY LACE |
fabrics |
Narrow lace edging
of the Valenciennes type |
Narrow lace edging
of the Valenciennes type. See also Valenciennes lace. |
| BABYCORD |
fabrics |
See under Corduroy |
See under Corduroy |
| BACK BREAK-POINT |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| BACK CHROMING |
processes, operations |
A treatment given
to a fabric after dyeing to improve colour fixation. |
Also called Back
dyeing. A treatment given to a fabric after dyeing to
improve colour fixation. A chrome mordant is used, often
on logwood blacks. |
| BACK COATING |
chemicals, textile
auxiliaries |
An adhesive-type
substance applied to the back of a fabric |
An adhesive-type
substance applied to the back of a fabric for such purposes
as locking pile yarn tufts into a carpet backing, bonding
a secondary backing to a primary backing, or increasing
fabric body or stiffness. |
| BACK DYEING |
processes, operations |
See Back dyeing. |
See Back dyeing. |
| BACK FABRIC SEAM
IMPRESSION |
defects |
Printing defect,
major. |
Printing defect,
major. During printing, backing fabric is often used to
cushion the fabric being printed and if there is a joining
seam in the backing fabric, there may result an impression
on the printed fabric. |
| BACK LOOP |
fabrics |
See under Knitted
loop |
See under Knitted
loop |
| BACK RISE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
The distance on
a garment from the crutch to the centre back of the waistline. |
The distance on
a garment from the crutch to the centre back of the waistline. |
| BACK SIDE |
fabrics |
Also called Wrong
side |
Also called Wrong
side. The reverse of a fabric as opposed to the face side. |
| BACK STITCH |
seams, stitches |
A strong and versatile
hand stitch used to seam garment parts. |
See Filler
A strong and versatile hand stitch used to seam garment
parts. It is so called because, the needle, on emerging,
goes back to be inserted at the end of the previous stitch. |
| BACK STRAP |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Strap across the
back of a garment at the waist usually fitted with a buckle,
or other method of adjustable fastening |
Strap across the
back of a garment at the waist usually fitted with a buckle,
or other method of adjustable fastening, and used to adjust
the fit of the garment, within limits, to the wearer's
require-ments. |
| BACK TACKING |
seams, stitches |
Reverse sewing
at the beginning and end of a seam |
Reverse sewing
at the beginning and end of a seam for reinforcement. |
| BACK TANNING |
processes, operations |
An after-treatment
to improve the wet fastness of dyed or printed silk or
polyamide materials |
An after-treatment
to improve the wet fastness of dyed or printed silk or
polyamide materials, using either natural or synthetic
tanning agents. See also Tannin. |
| BACK TWISTING |
processes, operations |
Re-twisting a yarn |
Re-twisting a yarn
in the opposite direction to the direction of the original,
previously set twist. |
| BACK WASHING |
processes, operations |
The washing of
dyed or undyed wool sliver |
The washing of
dyed or undyed wool sliver before or after gilling and
or combing. |
| BACK WIDTH |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system. |
| BACK WINDING |
processes, operations |
The process of
rewinding, |
The process of
rewinding, e.g. from hank or cone to a more suitable package
for the next process. |
| BACK-AND-FORE STITCH |
seams, stitches |
A hand stitch employed
for sewing linings and pockets. |
A hand stitch employed
for sewing linings and pockets. It involves taking a back
and then a running stitch before the needle is removed |
| BACK-FILLING |
³ |
A filler material
applied to the back of a fabric |
A filler material
applied to the back of a fabric, to improve its hand and/or
increase the weight. See Filler |
| BACK-GREY |
fabrics |
IN ROLLER PRINTING,IN
SCREEN PRINTING |
1. IN ROLLER PRINTING,
fabric used between the blanket and the fabric to be printed
- sometimes called 'face fabric' - to absorb any printing
paste that penetrate through the printed fabric, and to
im-part flexibility to the face fabric allowing sharp
prints.
2. IN SCREEN PRINTING, fabric used to support lightweight,
open weave fabrics to be printed in order to maintain
stability of the face fabric. The back-grey and face fabric
are gummed together prior to the combined fabric itself
being gummed to the printing table conveyor belt. Synthetic
polymer fibre fabrics may be gummed to the back-grey to
prevent slipping. See also Bump-grey. |
| BACK-SIZING |
³ |
See Filler. |
See Filler. |
| BACKED CLOTH WEAVE |
fabrics |
A reversible fabric |
Also known as French
back weave. A reversible fabric is achieved by using one
warp and two wefts. No binder yarn is used |
| BACKED FABRIC |
fabrics |
A fabric woven
with an extra set of yarns |
A fabric woven
with an extra set of yarns, either warp or weft, to add
weight and/or strength. |
| BACKING FABRIC |
fabrics |
A reinforcing layer
of fabric |
1. A reinforcing
layer of fabric adhered to the reverse side of a fabric.
2. All materials in a pile yarn floor-covering other than
pile yarn; a fabric into which a pile yarn is in-serted. |
| BACKING YARN |
fabrics |
In pile fabrics,
the base yarn that holds the pile in place |
In pile fabrics,
the base yarn that holds the pile in place, formed by
the stuffer yarn and the warp and weft of the fabric. |
| BACKING, PRIMARY |
fabrics |
In tufted pile
yarn floor covering |
In tufted pile
yarn floor covering, the fabric through which the pile
yarn is carried by needles to form tufts; the backing
fabric |
| BACKING, SECONDARY |
fabrics |
A material adhered
to the backing fabric side |
A material adhered
to the backing fabric side of a pile yarn floor covering. |
| BACKING, WARP |
fabrics |
Additional warp
on the back of a fabric |
Additional warp
on the back of a fabric, bound or stitched to the ground
structure so that it does not interfere with the appearance
of the face, giving greater weight, thickness, warmth,
etc. |
| BACKING, WEFT |
fabrics |
Additional weft
on the back of a fabric |
Additional weft
on the back of a fabric, bound or stitched to the ground
structure so that it does not interfere with the appearance
of the face, giving greater weight, thickness, warmth,
etc. |
| BACTERIAL RESISTANCE |
general |
The resistance
to the development of visible bacterial growth and accompanying
odours |
The resistance
to the development of visible bacterial growth and accompanying
odours, resulting from bacterial degradation of fibres
or soil on them, as distinguished from musty fungal odours. |
| BACTERIOSTAT |
processes, operations |
Chemical compound,
applied to fabric |
Chemical compound,
applied to fabric, which kills or inhibits growth of bacteria
contacting fabric. |
| BAD CAST |
defects |
An abruptly increased
diameter in raw silk thread. |
An abruptly increased
diameter in raw silk thread. It is usually caused by the
improper joining of a single cocoon filament to the thread
during the reeling operation. |
| BAD COVER |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
a. The spaces between the threads are more pronounced
than is required in the fabric. The degree of cover can
be affected by loom adjustments, sett, or count of reed,
or by the construction of the yarns used.
b. In a finished fabric, the surface is not covered or
the underlying structure not concealed by the finishing
materials used, to the degree required. |
| BAD LISTING |
defects |
See Cut selvedge. |
See Cut selvedge. |
| BAD ODOUR |
defects |
Fabric defect |
Fabric defect.
Any of an array of objectionable odours often noted in
fabrics, unfinished or finished. Usually caused by some
chemical action which has not been properly controlled
such as in ap-plication, washing, scouring, fulling, etc. |
| BAD TEMPLE |
defects |
See Temple mark. |
See Temple mark. |
| BAG CLOTH |
fabrics |
Woven fabric of
inferior quality yarns, heavily sized to prevent penetration. |
Woven fabric of
inferior quality yarns, heavily sized to prevent penetration.
Used, as the name implies, for bags and sacks to hold
dry goods such as flour, beans, lentils, etc. When the
sizing is washed out, the fabric becomes soft, which are
sometimes used for dusters and cleaning clothes. |
| BAGGING |
processes, operations |
See Tacking |
See Tacking, 2. |
| BAGGING FABRIC |
fabrics |
Also called Gunny.
A very heavy, loosely woven fabric from heavy tightly
twisted roving |
Also called Gunny.
A very heavy, loosely woven fabric from heavy tightly
twisted roving, consisting largely of reworked and waste
fibres, principally cotton and jute. Used for bale covering,
etc. See also Sacking |
| BAGGING OUT |
processes, operations |
A method of joining
facings and/or linings to the outer fabric of a garment |
A method of joining
facings and/or linings to the outer fabric of a garment
by sewing them together face to face in the form of a
bag and then turning the garment out to the Right side. |
| BAGGY CLOTH |
defects |
See Wavy cloth. |
See Wavy cloth. |
| BAGGY SELVEDGE |
defects |
See Slack selvedge |
See Slack selvedge. |
| BAGHDAD WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Dark carpet wool
from Mesopotamia. |
Dark carpet wool
from Mesopotamia. |
| BAGHEERA VELVET |
fabrics |
Piece-dyed velvet
with a rough surface |
Piece-dyed velvet
with a rough surface. Used for outerwear as the rough
surface makes it largely uncrushable. See also Velvet. |
| BAIL |
accessories |
Also called Lug. |
Also called Lug.
In zippers, a portion or portions of the slider to which
the pull or pulls are attached |
| BAININ |
fabrics |
Loosely constructed,
hand-woven fabric from Ireland |
Loosely constructed,
hand-woven fabric from Ireland, made of woollen homespun.
Used for coats, skirts, stoles, etc. |
| BAIZE |
fabrics |
Also called Baze.
Plain-woven, coarse short napped woollen felt fabric. |
Also called Baze.
Plain-woven, coarse short napped woollen felt fabric.
Used as wall covering and for covering tables and screens. |
| BAKING |
processes, operations |
Treatment of a
dry fabric |
Treatment of a
dry fabric with dry heat such as Curing, Thermofixation,
Thermosoling. |
| BALANCE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
In garments, the
adjustment of the relation of one section of a garment
to another |
In garments, the
adjustment of the relation of one section of a garment
to another, in harmony with the natural attitude of the
figure, especially that of the back and front lengths |
| BALANCE MARKS |
processes, operations |
Notches, nips or
threads in garment parts, which help to preserve the balance
of the garments by serving as guides during assembly. |
Notches, nips or
threads in garment parts, which help to preserve the balance
of the garments by serving as guides during assembly.
They are generally put at side seams, hind arm and forearm
seams and elsewhere as necessary |
| BALANCE WHEEL |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Also called Hand
wheel. In sewing machine |
Also called Hand
wheel. In sewing machine, a pulley that incorporates a
counter balance to stabilise the driven shaft of the machine. |
| BALANCED CRÊPE |
fabrics |
A crepe which has
alternate yarns of 'S' and 'Z' crepe twist in both warp
and filling |
A crepe which has
alternate yarns of 'S' and 'Z' crepe twist in both warp
and filling |
| BALANCED FABRIC |
fabrics |
Fabric in which
the number of ends/inch is equal to the number of picks/inch
and both of the yarns are of the same count (or number). |
Fabric in which
the number of ends/inch is equal to the number of picks/inch
and both of the yarns are of the same count (or number). |
| BALANCED TWILL |
fabrics |
Also called Even-sided
twill. |
Also called Even-sided
twill. Twill weave fabric in which the floats in both
warp and weft directions span equal numbers of crosswise
yarns. |
| BALANCED TWIST |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
without tension
An arrangement of twist in a plied yarn or cord, |
A combination of
single and ply twists that will produce yarn or cord which
will not twist on itself when held in the form of an open
loop or suspended without tension
An arrangement of twist in a plied yarn or cord, which
will not cause twisting on itself when the yarn or cord
is held in the form of an open loop. |
| BALANCED YARNS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Yarns in which
the twist is such that the yarn will hang in a loop without
kinking, doubling, or twisting upon itself. |
Yarns in which
the twist is such that the yarn will hang in a loop without
kinking, doubling, or twisting upon itself.
A yarn with balanced twist. |
| BALBRIGGAN |
fabrics |
Light, knit fabric
made on a circular knitting machine. |
Light, knit fabric
made on a circular knitting machine. Was originally made
at Balbriggan in Ireland and used for hosiery. Now used
for sportswear, underwear and pyjamas. Usually made from
cotton, it may have a slight fleece on the wrong side. |
| BALE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns, fabrics |
A compressed package
of cotton, wool, or staple fibre. |
1. A compressed
package of cotton, wool, or staple fibre.
2. A bag, sack, etc., square or oblong usually made of
jute or burlap containing packages of fibre, yarn, and
sometimes fabric. Bales are usually compressed. The sizes
and weights of bales vary. |
| BALE DYEING |
processes, operations |
The dyeing of cloth
without previous scouring,Dyeing of loose stock |
1. The dyeing of
cloth without previous scouring, such that the sized warp
yarns take up dye while greasy weft yarns do not. Imitation
chambray is sometimes bale dyed.
2. Dyeing of loose stock (usually synthetic polymer fibre)
in the form of an unpacked bale |
| BALL WARPING |
processes, operations |
The process of
winding a group of warp yarns |
The process of
winding a group of warp yarns in the form of a twistless
rope into a ball, cheese or cake. See also Warping. |
| BALLET TOE |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
In knitting, a
type of reverse toe |
In knitting, a
type of reverse toe in which the toe yarn on the upper
side covers the ends of the toes only, and the toe is
usually extended and more pointed. |
| BALLING UP |
defects |
See Fuzz ball. |
See Fuzz ball. |
| BALLOON CLOTH |
fabrics |
Plain-weave cotton
cloth made from high quality fine yarn |
Plain-weave cotton
cloth made from high quality fine yarn, very closely woven.
Once used for ready-made shirts, for typewriter ribbons
and, of course for balloons. |
| BALLOONING |
processes, operations |
The entrapment
of air |
The entrapment
of air, either deliberately or accidentally, by a fabric
during wet processing. |
| BALLOONING EYE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Also called Twizzle,
Lappet. |
Also called Twizzle,
Lappet. A yarn-guide that forms the apex of the yarn balloon.
See Ballooning yarn |
| BALLOONING YARN |
processes, operations |
The appearance
of the curved paths of running yarns |
The appearance
of the curved paths of running yarns during spinning,
doubling, or winding-on, or while they are being withdrawn
over-end from packages under appropriate conditions. The
shape of the balloon is determined by several factors,
among which are: air-resistance to the passage of yarn
around a package, centrifugal force acting on the revolving
yarn, type and linear density of yarn, yarn-winding speed,
length of balloon, and mass of traveller, if used. |
| BALMORAL |
fabrics |
A strong, heavy,
British woollen fabric made in a twill weave |
A strong, heavy,
British woollen fabric made in a twill weave; stripes
of red, black, and grey feature in the material |
| BAN-LON |
fabrics |
A trade name for
fabrics made with texturised yarns. |
A trade name for
fabrics made with texturised yarns. Fabrics made from
these yarns are soft, strong, easy to wash, quick drying
and crease and shrink-resistant. See Texturising. |
| BANANA FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibres obtained
from plants of the banana family. |
Fibres obtained
from plants of the banana family. |
| BAND |
fabrics |
A weft-way region
of the fabric that extends across the full width |
A weft-way region
of the fabric that extends across the full width and is
different from the rest of the fabric. It may not run
parallel with the picks, and may or may not have clearly
defined edges. |
| BAND KNIFE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A mechanically
driven endless moving blade, |
A mechanically
driven endless moving blade, which passes through a slot
in a table. Normally used for cutting many layers of cloth
at the same time. |
| BAND WARPING |
processes, operations |
See Pattern warping. |
See Pattern warping. |
| BANDAGE |
fabrics |
A narrow, loosely
woven fabric made of cotton and occasionally linen in
a plain weave, resembling gauze |
A narrow, loosely
woven fabric made of cotton and occasionally linen in
a plain weave, resembling gauze. Used for medical purposes.
Generally bleached and shipped in sterilised packages.
It is available in squares, triangular bandages and rolled
bandages in a great variety of widths. |
| BANDED LACES |
accessories |
Laces, produced
on a warp-knitting or twist-lace machine. |
Laces, produced
on a warp-knitting or twist-lace machine. Narrow bands
or strips, used for trimming garments. The band are usually
held together for finishing purposes and subsequently
separated. The three main types are:
1. EDGINGS: Narrow bands of lace with one straight edge
for sewing purposes and the other made ornate by scalloping
and using pearls. Used for sewing onto edges of a garment.
2. INSERTIONS: Banded laces with two straight sewing edges,
used for inserting between two panels of fabric.
3. GALLOONS: Banded laces scalloped or fancy at both edges,
used to sew on the top of a fabric for decorative purposes. |
| BANG OFF |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
See Fine filling bar. |
| BANNOCKBURN |
fabrics |
Top quality tweed
cloth |
Top quality tweed
cloth, in which a single colour yarn is alternated with
a yarn made of two colours; the yarns are twisted together
before weaving. Fabric named after the Scottish town of
Bannockburn that has long been the centre of an area producing
these fabrics. Used for suits and coats. |
| BAR |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
Also called Shade bar. A bar that has developed a different
colour from the adjacent fabric during, or subsequent
to, dyeing and finishing owing to damage or contamination
of otherwise normal fabric or of weft yarn prior to weaving. |
| BARATHEA |
fabrics |
Expensive fine
English cloth |
Expensive fine
English cloth, closely woven with slight diagonal-weave
appearance and broken rib effect. Feels smooth to touch
but has a granular or pebbled appearance. Originally in
worsted and silk, but now made with synthetic fibres such
as viscose, acetate and polyester. Mainly used as wool
suiting or uniform fabric and also for men's evening clothes
and for coats and skirts for women.
The best types are fine botany worsted fabrics, firm and
compact in structure with a clean finish. The weave is
a special form of twilled rib weave which in combination
with the fine setting pro-duces a finely indented fabric
surface with faint regular twill lines running in opposite
directions. The weave can be simple or more complex but
the general effect is similar. In fine qualities this
fab-ric makes up well in classic styles. Cheaper forms
of barathea use woollen weft, and a mixture of wool and
a cheaper fibre, which produces a fabric with a more fibrous
surface and less distinct face effect than the true fabric.
Man-made staple fibres can also be used to give cheaper,
lighter weight, versions of this fabric. |
| BARBE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See under Fibre
length. |
See under Fibre
length. |
| BARE CLOTH |
defects |
A fabric with
bad cover |
1. A fabric with
bad cover.
2. A fabric, the surface of which is not raised, brushed,
or napped to the required degree. |
| BARÉGE |
fabrics |
See Barrége. |
See Barrége. |
| BARK CRÊPE |
fabrics |
Heavy crêpe
fabric with rough texture, like tree bark |
Heavy crêpe
fabric with rough texture, like tree bark. Usually viscose
or polyester. Stiff fabric for eveningwear. |
| BARMEN LACE |
fabrics |
Narrow lace made
on a type of braiding machine |
Narrow lace made
on a type of braiding machine, on which individual carrier
movements are controlled by a patterning mechanism. See
Barmen machine. |
| BARMEN MACHINE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See under Lace
machines. |
See under Lace
machines. |
| BARNSLEY FINISH |
processes, operations |
A term used for
a finish applied to heavy linen drills. |
A term used for
a finish applied to heavy linen drills. The bleached cloth
is run through a mangle, starched lightly, and dried.
It is then run through a light calendar, passed through
hot water onto rollers, where it remains for 5 to 6 hours,
and dried. It is pressed in single folds separated by
pasteboards in a hydraulic press. |
| BARRAS |
fabrics |
a coarse linen
fabric similar to sackcloth. |
Originally produced
in Holland; it is a coarse linen fabric similar to sackcloth.
See Sacking. |
| BARRÉ |
defects |
Fabric defect,
usually major |
Fabric defect,
usually major. Also called Barré mark, Barriness
and Barry. 1. In woven fabrics. An unintentional, repetitive
visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually
parallel to the weft of fabric. A stripe-like effect where
one or more picks are characterised by an apparent difference
in colour, lustre, or physical arrangement that is repeated
at intervals across the warp direction, caused probably
due to mechanical faults in the loom, or variations in
lustre or dye absorption, etc. of yarns. 2. In knit fabric.
Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks or bands
parallel to the courses of weft knitted fabrics, caused
by differences in yarn size, tension on yarns or fabric,
colour, lustre or shrinkage, from one section of the cloth
to the adjacent area. |
| BARRED |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
A bar effect produced by stripes or bars extending crosswise
in woven or knitted goods. |
| BARRÉGE |
fabrics |
Very sheer fabric
of wool and silk or cotton used for veiling. |
Also called Barége.
Very sheer fabric of wool and silk or cotton used for
veiling. Originates from Barége in the Pyrenees.
Unsuitable for clothing. Drapes well but will not withstand
strain in wear. |
| BASIC DYES |
chemicals, textile
auxiliaries |
These are cationic
dyes |
The outstanding
characteristic of these dyes are their brilliance and
intensity. Some of the shades are of such clarity of hue,
that no other class can compare with them them. These
are cationic dyes that dissociate in an aqueous medium
to give a positively charged coloured ion (cation) with
affinity for fibres containing acidic groups. To apply
it on cotton, a tannin mordanting is necessary; still
the fastness is only just moderate. Can be applied without
mordant on wool and silk, but again the results are characterised
more by brightness than fastness. Specially developed
basic dyes for acrylics are quite fast. Basic dyes are:
suitable for acrylic fibres, suitable for wool and silk
fibres, but now the usage is declining, suitable for cotton,
linen, viscose rayon, and cuprammonium rayon fibres, but
lacks fastness and now obsolete. |
| BASIC FINISHES |
processes, operations |
Mechanical or chemical
processes applied in some form to a constructed fabric. |
Mechanical or chemical
processes applied in some form to a constructed fabric. |
| BASIS WEIGHT OF
FABRIC |
fabrics |
Mass per unit area
of fabric |
Mass per unit area
of fabric, e.g. oz/sq. yd., g/m2 |
| BASKET |
fabrics |
A variation of
the plain weave |
A variation of
the plain weave, where groups of adjacent warps are each
woven as one and picks are inserted in groups of two or
more in each shed. The formation resembles a plaited basket.
See also Hopsack. |
| BASKET WEAVE |
fabrics |
A variation of
the plain weave |
A variation of
the plain weave, where groups of adjacent warps are each
woven as one and picks are inserted in groups of two or
more in each shed. The formation resembles a plaited basket. |
| BAST FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibres derived
from the inner fibrous bark of dicotyledonous plants |
Fibres derived
from the inner fibrous bark of dicotyledonous plants such
as flax, hemp and jute. |
| BASTARD |
fabrics |
a substitute fabric,
a copy cloth or an inferior material. |
In textiles, the
term indicates a substitute fabric, a copy cloth or an
inferior material. The general connotation is that the
so-called bastard fabric does not have all of the desirable
characteristics of the cloth it purports to copy. |
| BASTARD YARNS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A term for yarns
which are spun harder than filling |
A term for yarns
which are spun harder than filling but not as hard as
regular warp twist. They are used for making plied yarns. |
| BASTE |
seams, stitches |
Fibres derived
from the inner fibrous bark of dicotyledonous plants s |
Fibres derived
from the inner fibrous bark of dicotyledonous plants such
as flax, hemp and jute. |
| BASTING |
seams, stitches |
See Baste |
See Baste |
| BATCH |
general, processes,
operations |
The process of
winding cloth on a roller |
1. One group of
material which is to be processed (usually dyed) as a
unit.
2. The process of winding cloth on a roller after it has
been passed through a dye solution. |
| BATCH CURE |
processes, operations |
A procedure used
in curing durable press garments. |
A procedure used
in curing durable press garments. By this method, one
batch at a time is put into the curing oven. |
| BATCHWISE PROCESS |
processes, operations |
Processing of materials
as lots or batches |
Processing of materials
as lots or batches in which the whole of each batch is
subjected to one stage of the process at a time. See also
Continuous process. |
| BATH SHEET |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
See under Towel. |
See under Towel. |
| BATH TOWEL |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
See under Towel |
See under Towel |
| BATHROBE CLOTH |
fabrics |
A double-faced
cotton blanket fabric |
A double-faced
cotton blanket fabric woven with a tightly twisted warp
and two sets of soft filling yarns, heavily napped to
produce a soft surface. |
| BATIK |
processes, operations |
Term for a resist
process of patterning cloth. |
Term for a resist
process of patterning cloth. A method, of dyeing, originated
in Java, in which wax is employed in an innovative fashion.
The design is formed by coating parts of the fabric with
wax which protects these parts from the dyestuff. The
wax is removed by boiling. This process is repeated as
many times as there are colours in the design. Fabrics,
usually cotton, are labelled 'ba-tik' when they feature
this type of print. Designs are often large and placed
centrally; borders are usually featured. Used for casual
dresses, shirts, beachwear. |
| BATISTE |
fabrics |
A fine, soft, plain-woven
fabric, originally of linen and then in cotton. |
A fine, soft, plain-woven
fabric, originally of linen and then in cotton. But now
may be polyester. Slightly heavier than voile, in white
or plain colours. Creases easily but is strong, wears
well, and washes and boils. Used for underwear, shirts,
blouses, nightwear, children's clothes, handkerchiefs,
etc. |
| BATT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A carded lap of
fibres. |
A carded lap of
fibres. |
| BATTENBERG LACE |
fabrics |
Coarse type lace
often made from linen thread |
Coarse type lace
often made from linen thread and used mainly in small
areas, such as collars and cuffs, although it is a popular
heavy curtain lace. |
| BATTING |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Cotton or polyester
fleece used for quilting |
Cotton or polyester
fleece used for quilting, in quilted fabrics. A textile
filling material consisting of a continuous web of fibres
formed by carding, garnetting, air laying or other means. |
| BATTING INTEGRITY |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The ability of
a textile filling material to resist distortion |
The ability of
a textile filling material to resist distortion or change
when subjected to multiple home launderings or drycleanings. |
| BAULK FINISH |
processes, operations |
A finish by which
woollen material is lightly milled |
A finish by which
woollen material is lightly milled in the grease, scoured,
dyed, tentered to width and lightly pressed. |
| BAUMÉ, DEGREES |
general |
A scale used for
measurement of the relative density (RD) of liquids by
hydrometry. |
A scale used for
measurement of the relative density (RD) of liquids by
hydrometry. The following formula expresses the relationship
between relative density, and degrees Baumé (°
Be), for liquids more dense than water |
| BAURETTE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Noil |
See Noil |
| BAVE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The silk fibre
complete with its natural gum (sericin) |
The silk fibre
complete with its natural gum (sericin) as it is withdrawn
from a cocoon formed by a silk worm. It comprises two
brins. |
| BAZE |
fabrics |
See Baize. |
See Baize. |
| BCF |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Short for Bulked
Continuous Filament |
Short for Bulked
Continuous Filament. A textured, continuous filament yarn,
generally used either as a pile yarn in carpets or for
upholstery fabrics. See also Textured yarn. |
| BEAD |
accessories |
IN SEPARATE ELEMENT
ZIPPERS, IN CONTINUOUS ELEMENT ZIPPERS |
1. IN SEPARATE
ELEMENT ZIPPERS, an enlarged section on the inner edge
of each tape to which inter-lockable elements are affixed.
2. IN CONTINUOUS ELEMENT ZIPPERS, an optional enlarged
section of the tape located at the outer edge of the continuous
interlockable elements and against which the slider flanges
bear. |
| BEAD WRAPPING FABRIC |
fabrics |
See under Tyre
textiles |
See under Tyre
textiles |
| BEADED SELVEDGE |
defects |
See Loopy selvedge |
See Loopy selvedge. |
| BEADING |
defects |
See Buttoning. |
See Buttoning. |
| BEADING LACE |
fabrics |
Very narrow, insertion
laces. |
Very narrow, insertion
laces. They are often openwork hemstitching or faggot
stitch, or may have slits for inserting ribbons. |
| BEAM |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A large spool with
end flanges on to which a multitude of warp yarns are
wound parallel |
A large spool with
end flanges on to which a multitude of warp yarns are
wound parallel in such a way, to permit the removal of
these yarns as a warp sheet, and used for such purposes
as weaving or warp knitting. Fabric also may be wound
on beam. |
| BEAM DYEING |
processes, operations |
A method of dyeing
warp yarns or fabrics wound on to a perforated beam |
A method of dyeing
warp yarns or fabrics wound on to a perforated beam. The
beam is placed in the dyeing machine and the dye solution
is pumped through the yarn from the centre of the beam
outward and then from the outside yarn surface to the
centre of the beam. |
| BEAM WARPING |
processes, operations |
Winding a part
of the total number of ends in full width on to a warp
beam |
Winding a part
of the total number of ends in full width on to a warp
beam. |
| BEARDED NEEDLE |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
See under Needle. |
See under Needle. |
| BEARERS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
In trousers, sections
fastened to the side seams of some styles |
In trousers, sections
fastened to the side seams of some styles, to take the
weight of the trousers when the fronts are opened. |
| BEAT-UP |
processes, operations |
See Beating-up |
See Beating-up |
| BEATING |
general, processes,
operations |
A term used in
wool industry for spare threads that are run from a warp
during weaving. |
1. A term used
in wool industry for spare threads that are run from a
warp during weaving. They can be used for replacing missing
ends during the mending process.
2. A finishing process which generally consists of manually
beating certain raised wool fabrics with sticks, but now
mechanised. |
| BEATING-UP |
processes, operations |
One of the basic
motions involved in weaving. |
Also called Beat-up.
One of the basic motions involved in weaving. The inserted
weft yarn is pushed up against the fell of the cloth by
the reed, i.e. the process of forcing a weft yarn into
position in a fabric. |
| BEAVER CLOTH |
fabrics |
Expensive coating
material, heavily napped and raised and made to look like
beaver fur. |
Expensive coating
material, heavily napped and raised and made to look like
beaver fur. Woven in a variety of weights in single or
double satin weaves from high quality woollen yarns. Used
for overcoats and winter jackets for men and women. |
| BEAVERTEEN |
fabrics |
A fabric having
a very high weft sett used chiefly for heavy trouserings. |
A fabric having
a very high weft sett used chiefly for heavy trouserings.
The fabric is piece dyed and has a short, soft raised
finish on the back. It is heavier than Imperial sateen. |
| BECK |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Also called Kettle,
Trough. |
Also called Kettle,
Trough. An open-topped vessel used to hold treating liquors,
e.g. wash or dye liquor. |
| BECKE LINES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Lines which appear
at the edge of a microscope image of a fibre |
Lines which appear
at the edge of a microscope image of a fibre caused by
the refraction at the fibre edge. |
| BED |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
In sewing machine,
the part below the material being sewn. |
In sewing machine,
the part below the material being sewn. It consists of
a casting which houses and provides mounting points for
the moving parts inside. |
| BEDCOVERING |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A textile product
used on a bed over the sheets |
A textile product
used on a bed over the sheets for warmth and/or decoration. |
| BEDFORD CLOTH |
fabrics |
See Bedford cord. |
See Bedford cord. |
| BEDFORD CORD |
fabrics |
Firmly woven heavy
hardwearing fabric, very stable, showing prominent rounded
cords in the warp direction with pronounced sunken lines
between them. |
Firmly woven heavy
hardwearing fabric, very stable, showing prominent rounded
cords in the warp direction with pronounced sunken lines
between them. These typical narrow warp cord effects are
produced by a special cord weave structure. The weave
on the face of the cords is usually plain, but other weaves
may be used. There are weft floats the width of the cords
on the back. Wadding may be used to accentuate the prominence
of the cords.
Used originally for riding breeches but also used for
ordinary suiting, casual trousers, uniforms and upholstery.
Traditionally wool, cotton or a mixture of the two; but
now for dress purposes, carded cotton yarns, woollen or
worsted yarns, viscose acetate, polyester or combinations
of yarns used. Conventionally the cords are regular and
of even size but different sizes are used in stripe form
for dress use. The wales can be wide and stiffer yarns
can be present. Light Bedford cord is used for dresses,
children's clothes, etc. |
| BEDSPREAD |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A type of bedcovering
that is placed over the blankets and sheets |
A type of bedcovering
that is placed over the blankets and sheets for appearance
and/or warmth. |
| BEER |
fabrics |
Also called Bier.
A definite number of warp threads, usually 40 |
Also called Bier.
A definite number of warp threads, usually 40. A warp
is said to consist of so many beers, e.g. 2400 ends would
be 60n beers. |
| BEETLE |
fabrics |
Soft, full, close
and lustrous finished fabric of cellulosic fabric, particularly
linen or cotton. |
Soft, full, close
and lustrous finished fabric of cellulosic fabric, particularly
linen or cotton. Finish produced by a process called 'beetling';
the damp fabric, wrapped on a wooden or metal beam or
roller, is pounded repeatedly by wooden or metal hammers
or fallers. |
| BEETLING |
processes, operations |
See under Beetle |
See under Beetle |
| BEGGAR'S INKLE |
accessories |
An old type narrow
fabric |
An old type narrow
fabric constructed as Linsey-wolsey |
| BEIGE |
fabrics, fibers,
filaments, yarns |
A term for cloth
in the natural or undyed unfinished state. |
1. A term for cloth
in the natural or undyed unfinished state.
2. Unbleached wool |
| BELLIES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
The coarser quality
of wool |
The coarser quality
of wool from the underside of a sheep |
| BELLY BANDS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Wrapper fibres |
See Wrapper fibres |
| BELT |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A girdle or waistband. |
1. A girdle or
waistband.
2. See under Tyre textiles. |
| BELT LOOP |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A loop of fabric
or thread which is sewn into the waist of the garment. |
A loop of fabric
or thread which is sewn into the waist of the garment.
The degree of fit is adjustable by means of a belt drawn
through the loop or loops. |
| BELTING |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A term covering
all forms of belts, and rolls of material from which belts
are made up |
A term covering
all forms of belts, and rolls of material from which belts
are made up, that are designed for industrial and mechanical
uses, e.g. for the transmission of power or for the purpose
of conveying or elevating.
Endless woven belting: A woven narrow fabric, usually
in plain or 2/2 twill weave, in which the warp consists
of one continuous thread wound in a helix to the required
length and woven without join or splice so that the first
pick and last picks are adjacent.
Solid woven belting: Belting consisting of more than one
ply, the plies being interlocked in the weave, or bound
together by binding threads in the course of weaving.
Solid woven belting is usu-ally impregnated or otherwise
treated to increase the coefficient of friction and the
resistance to moisture and rotting, to improve linear
stability, and to impart other desirable properties. |
| BELWARP FABRIC |
fabrics |
A fine worsted
dress-cloth having a corkscrew twill weave |
A fine worsted
dress-cloth having a corkscrew twill weave with a clear
finish. |
| BEMBERG |
fabrics |
See Bembergizing |
See Bembergizing |
| BEMBERGIZING |
processes, operations |
A process used
for developing a high lustre on wool. |
A process used
for developing a high lustre on wool. Worsted yarn is
treated in a bath of sodium bisulphate at a high temperature
under mechanical tension to prevent shrinking, boiled
for sometime in a weak mineral acid under relaxing (minimum)
tension, and then rinsed in water. A high lustre is produced,
and the yarn is elongated by approximately one third. |
| BENARES |
fabrics |
Lightweight cotton
or silk fabric from India. |
Lightweight cotton
or silk fabric from India. Usually woven with metallic
threads, often in border design |
| BENDING LENGTH |
fabrics |
A measure of the
interaction between fabric weight and fabric stiffness |
A measure of the
interaction between fabric weight and fabric stiffness
as shown by the way in which a fabric bends under its
own weight. It reflects the stiffness of a fabric when
bent in one plane under the force of gravity, and is one
component of drape. |
| BENGALINE |
fabrics |
a fabric with a
more or less striking warp-rib appearance running across
the fabric, produced from cotton, worsted, silk or other
continuous filament yarns |
Originally the
fabric came from Bengal. Now, a fabric with a more or
less striking warp-rib appearance running across the fabric,
produced from cotton, worsted, silk or other continuous
filament yarns, or in part from any of the materials named;
a typical example being silk warp and worsted weft. The
warp-rib or corded effect may be produced by (i) suitable
thickness and setting of warp and weft threads, (ii) suitable
warp-rib weaves or a combination of (i) and (ii). Used
for coats, suits, dresses, and ribbons; can also be made
as curtain fabric. |
| BENT HANDLED SHEARS |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Scissors with blades
angled |
Scissors with blades
angled so that fabric can be cut while lying flat. |
| BERBER |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
manufactured carpets
made from natural coloured wools, or dyed fibre, and having
a homespun appearance. |
Originally the
term described hand spun, hand woven, African carpets
with simple tribal motifs. Now, the term is commonly used
to describe manufactured carpets made from natural coloured
wools, or dyed fibre, and having a homespun appearance. |
| BERLIN |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Wool rag in the
finer machine-knitted grades |
Wool rag in the
|
