| A.B.C. SILK |
fabrics |
A dainty, opaque
fabric in plain weave |
A dainty, opaque
fabric in plain weave, with cotton warp and spun silk
weft. Made in white and solid colours, they are used mainly
for underwear and as lining material. |
| AAL |
processes, operations |
A reddish colour
dyestuff |
A reddish colour
dyestuff obtained from the roots of shrubs morinda tinctoria
and morinda citrifolia. |
| AATCC |
general |
American Association
of Textile Chemists and Colorists |
American Association
of Textile Chemists and Colorists |
| ABACA FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Manila hemp. |
See Manila hemp. |
| ABACAXI FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
pineapple fibre |
The Brazilian name
for pineapple fibre |
| ABASSI FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A variety of Egyptian
cotton. |
A variety of Egyptian
cotton. Pure white, about 3cm long brilliant staple of
good quality. |
| ABATTRE |
fabrics |
A French term for
types of quilted or depressed effects in fabrics |
A French term for
types of quilted or depressed effects in fabrics |
| ABBOT |
fabrics |
Also called Monk's
cloth. A heavy, rough surfaced, hardwearing, loosely woven,
basket weave fabric in solid colours. |
Also called Monk's
cloth. A heavy, rough surfaced, hardwearing, loosely woven,
basket weave fabric in solid colours. Sometimes stripes
or plaids are woven into the fabric. Made of cotton or
linen. It tends to lose shape under pressure, due to the
looseness of weave. Use confined to curtains, loose covers,
etc |
| ABBOTSFORD |
fabrics |
Dress-weight fabric
with muted check design. |
Dress-weight fabric
with muted check design. One side is slightly napped.
Usually made from cotton, wool, viscose, modal or acrylic |
| ABDIG |
fabrics |
A plain weave dress
fabric |
A plain weave dress
fabric made with cotton warp and a wool filling. |
| ABERCROMBIE |
fabrics |
Scottish tartan
fabric woven with a blue and black ground and green and
white over-check. |
Scottish tartan
fabric woven with a blue and black ground and green and
white over-check. Medium weight, usually not heavy enough
for outerwear. Originally all-wool, but now may contain
a proportion of polyester or acrylic fibre. Used for kilts,
pleated skirts, bias-cut skirts, pinafore dresses, children's
clothes. |
| ABERDEEN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A yarn size numbering
system for heavy yarns of wool, jute, etc. |
A yarn size numbering
system for heavy yarns of wool, jute, etc. now used only
occasionally. |
| ABESTRINE |
fabrics |
A fabric name that
may be applied to cloth made of asbestos. |
A fabric name that
may be applied to cloth made of asbestos. |
| ABRADED YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Continuous filament
yarn been subjected to abrading action |
Continuous filament
yarn been subjected to abrading action, generally to provide
it with hairiness characteristic of a staple-fibre yarn |
| ABRASION |
processes, operations |
The wearing away
of any part of a material |
The wearing away
of any part of a material by rubbing against another surface. |
| ABRASION MARK |
defects |
Fabric defect. |
Fabric defect.
Also called Chafe mark. An area of localised wear, where
the fabric has been damaged by friction |
| ABRASION RESISTANCE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns,fabrics |
The degree to which
a yarn or fabric is able to withstand surface wear |
The degree to which
a yarn or fabric is able to withstand surface wear due
to rubbing or chafing with another surface. Comparative
abrasion resistance of various fibres are: |
| ABRASIVE FABRICS |
fabrics |
A general term
for cotton fabrics used as backings for various abrasive
and polishing agents |
A general term
for cotton fabrics used as backings for various abrasive
and polishing agents. Usually sheetings and drills are
employed extensively and twills in smaller quantities.
The fabric is coated on one side with emery carboraundum
or other such abrasive grit. These are largely used on
industrial machine polishing of metals. |
| ABRAWAN |
fabrics |
very fine grade
flowing Dacca muslin |
Name for a very
fine grade flowing Dacca muslin |
| ABSOLUTE HUMIDITY |
general |
The mass of water
vapour present in a unit volume of moist air. |
The mass of water
vapour present in a unit volume of moist air. |
| ABSORBENCY |
general |
The propensity
of a material to take in and retain a liquid |
The propensity
of a material to take in and retain a liquid, usually
water, in the pores and interstices of the material |
| ABSORBENT COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Cotton fibres from
which natural wax and fats are removed by chemical treatment |
Cotton fibres from
which natural wax and fats are removed by chemical treatment
to make it absorbent. Used mainly for surgical dressings |
| ABSORBENT FINISH |
processes, operations |
A type of finishing
in which the fabric is treated chemically |
A type of finishing
in which the fabric is treated chemically to increase
its ability to absorb liquids |
| ABSORPTION |
processes, operations |
A process in which
one material (the absorbent) takes in or incorporates
another material (the absorbate) within itself |
A process in which
one material (the absorbent) takes in or incorporates
another material (the absorbate) within itself; such as
the absorption of moisture by fibres. |
| ABSORPTION FABRIC |
fabrics |
See Brattice cloth |
See Brattice cloth |
| ABSTERGENT |
processes, operations |
A cleaning substance. |
A cleaning substance.
See Detergent. |
| ACACIA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Coarse bast fibres
taken from a genus of shrubs and trees found in warm climates. |
Coarse bast fibres
taken from a genus of shrubs and trees found in warm climates.
These shrubs also yield printing gums and some natural
dyestuffs |
| ACCELERANT |
processes, operations |
A substance such
as a swelling agent, |
A substance, usually
a swelling agent, which, added to a dye-bath or printing
paste, accelerates the diffusion of a dye into a substance.
Also may be used to increase the rate of reaction in chemical
finishing |
| ACCELOROTOR |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
A device for rapid
evaluation of abrasion resistance of textiles. |
A device for rapid
evaluation of abrasion resistance of textiles. |
| ACCEPTABLE QUALITY
LEVEL |
general |
the process average
at which the risk of rejection is called the Producer's
risk. |
Also referred as
AQL. In acceptance sampling, the maximum fraction of non-conforming
items at which the process average can be considered satisfactory;
the process average at which the risk of rejection is
called the Producer's risk. |
| ACCORDION FABRIC |
fabrics |
Weft-knitted fabric,
showing a figure design in two or more colours |
Weft-knitted fabric,
showing a figure design in two or more colours, that is
produced on one set of needles by knitting and missing
and in which tuck loops are introduced to eliminate long
lengths of floating thread at the back. |
| ACCORDION PLEATS |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Narrow straight
pleats in a fabric usually parallel to one another |
Narrow straight
pleats in a fabric usually parallel to one another. Used
mainly in skirts and dresses. |
| ACCORDION STITCH |
fabrics |
A term used to
describe fabrics produced on circular top (single needle
jersey) machines. |
A term used to
describe fabrics produced on circular top (single needle
jersey) machines. The pattern incorporates knit, tuck
and welt |
| ACETA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Spun acetate containing
casein |
Spun acetate containing
casein. Increased strength, rough surfaces, and crimp
are achieved by changing physical properties of the fibre. |
| ACETATE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Manufactured fibre,
in which the fibre-forming substance is cellulose acetate. |
Manufactured fibre,
in which the fibre-forming substance is cellulose acetate.
Where not less than 92 % of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated,
the term Triacetate may be used as a generic description
of the fibre |
| ACETATE ANHYDRIDE |
³ |
Anhydrous acetic
acid. |
Anhydrous acetic
acid. Used in the manufacture of cellulose acetate. |
| ACETATE DYES |
³ |
Acetate yarns and
fabrics, when developed first, required a special type
of dye since they could not be coloured with types then
known. |
Acetate yarns and
fabrics, when developed first, required a special type
of dye since they could not be coloured with types then
known. A separate group of dyes was developed which became
known as acetate colours. These dyes have been found useful
for dyeing synthetic fibres. The term Disperse dyes has
been widely adopted to describe them more accurately. |
| ACETATE FABRIC |
fabrics |
Woven and knitted
fabrics, made of acetate fibres. |
Woven and knitted
fabrics, made of acetate fibres. Comfortable to wear and
has very good draping properties. Not affected by moths
or mildew. Inflammable, but many fabrics, especially those
for furnishings, are made with greatly reduced flammability.
On its own, acetate is not hardwearing. It creases, but
tends to recover well. Often mixed with other fibres including
cotton, viscose and nylon, to produce very interesting
textures and colourings. Used for a wide variety of uses
including dress-fabrics, linings, ribbons and furnishing
materials. |
| ACETONE |
³ |
A volatile, flammable
organic liquid. |
A volatile, flammable
organic liquid. It is used as a solvent for organic compounds,
and in the manufacture of acetate staple and yarn, where
it forms the solvent for the cellulose acetate compound
in the dry spinning process |
| ACETYL |
³ |
Basic element in
acetic acid, cellulose acetate and triacetate. |
Basic element in
acetic acid, cellulose acetate and triacetate. |
| ACETYLATED COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Cotton fibre that
has been chemically processed |
Cotton fibre that
has been chemically processed so that the fibre has the
dyeing and water-resistant qualities of acetate staple.
See Acetylation |
| ACETYLATION |
processes, operations |
The process by
which an acetyl radical is introduced into an organic
molecule |
The process by
which an acetyl radical is introduced into an organic
molecule; the process of combining cellulose with acetic
acid. See Partial acetylating. |
| ACEYTUNI |
fabrics |
A medieval name
for satin. |
A medieval name
for satin. |
| ACHROMATIC COLOURS |
general |
Colours such as
grey, slate, white |
Colours such as
grey, slate, white as opposed to the Chromatic colours
such as blue, yellow, red |
| ACID |
³ |
A chemical compound
which will neutralise an alkali. |
A chemical compound
which will neutralise an alkali. Acids are commonly used
in bleaching, dyeing and printing. Strong acids dissolve
vegetable fibres |
| ACID COLOURS |
³ |
fibres containing
cationic groups. |
Anionic dyes characterised
by substantivity for protein, polyamide or other fibres
containing cationic groups. Usually applied from an acidic
or neutral aqueous dye-bath. Acid dyes are:
suitable for wool, silk, polyamide, and elastomeric fibres
suitable for cellulose acetate and cellulose triacetate,
but the usage is declining
suitable for viscose rayon fibres, but lacks fastness
and now obsolete |
| ACID FADING |
processes, operations |
See Atmospheric
fading. |
See Atmospheric
fading. |
| ACID MILLING COLOURS |
³ |
Dyestuffs |
Dyestuffs that
when applied to wool, are fast to soaping, milling, fulling,
scouring finishes. |
| ACID RESISTANCE |
fabrics |
A quality which
certain fibres have more than other |
A quality which
certain fibres have more than others; e.g. the animal
fibres are certainly more acid-resistant than the vegetable
fibres, and a high degree of acid-resistance is found
in several of the new man-made fibres such as acrylic
fibre and vinyl resin fibre. |
| ACME |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A variety of raw
cotton that has been grown in Mississippi. |
A variety of raw
cotton that has been grown in Mississippi. The staple
is fairly long and but of inferior quality. |
| ACRILAN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A trade name for
a brand of acrylic staple and filament fibres |
A trade name for
a brand of acrylic staple and filament fibres |
| ACROMION |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
Garment-related
term. |
Garment-related
term. See under Garment sizing system |
| ACRYLIC |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Generic name of
a manufactured fibre, in which the fibre-forming substance
is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least
85 % by weight of recurring acrylonitrile units. |
Generic name of
a manufactured fibre, in which the fibre-forming substance
is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least
85 % by weight of recurring acrylonitrile units. Of all
man-made fibres it is the closest to wool. Used alone
or with natural and other man-made fibres to make wool-like
fabrics and jersey and other knitted fabrics. Acrylic
fibres are flammable, but not dangerously. It melts when
ignited and decompose without the 'dripping' found in
nylon or polyester. Virtually all present-day acrylic
fibres contain along with polyacrylonitrile, a very small
proportion of another constituent (the identity of which
is usually not disclosed by the manufacturer), for improving
the processing efficiency, especially of dyeing. The variation
of these extra constituents, in composition and proportion,
causes different response to processes, such as dyeing,
between various types of acrylic fibre very much greater
than with other types of synthetic fibre. |
| ACRYLIC FABRIC |
fabrics |
Soft, light, bulky
with woolly handle |
Soft, light, bulky
with woolly handle. Absorbent, warm, resistant to mildew
and moths. Easily washed and drycleanable. Fabrics have
tendency to 'pill' after some wear and knitted acrylics
easily lose their shape. Skirts may 'seat' and trousers
may 'bag' at the knees. The sensitivity of acrylic materials
to stretching when in warm moist condition demands careful
washing temperature control and flat drying. Ironing of
these fabrics is done carefully at a cool setting to avoid
distortion and glazing. |
| ACRYLIC JERSEY |
fabrics |
Knitted fabric,
soft, warm, absorbent, and even warmer if the back is
brushed or fleeced. |
Knitted fabric,
soft, warm, absorbent, and even warmer if the back is
brushed or fleeced. Usually in bright stripes as the right
side is rather dull and unattractive if in plain colours.
Used for leisure clothes, jogging suits, robes and dressing
gowns. Not hardwearing; trousers may 'bag'. |
| ACRYLIC KNIT |
fabrics |
A wide variety
of fabrics made from acrylic fibre, but often containing
small percentages of other fibres |
A wide variety
of fabrics made from acrylic fibre, but often containing
small percentages of other fibres. Linen and suede fibres
are often added to acrylic to make the fabrics look better,
and also to provide stability. Designs include fine and
heavy ribs, lacy and crochet effects and open, often marled
effect fabrics resembling hand-knits. Though soft and
comfortable to wear; most tend to lose their shape. Trousers
'bag' and dresses 'seat', hence they are allowed to re-shape
between wearings. Used for leisure clothes, sweaters,
tops and sweater dresses. |
| ACRYLIC RESIN |
³ |
A polymer of acrylonitrile. |
A polymer of acrylonitrile.
Used in the manufacture of man-made fibres as a finish
and size. |
| ACRYLIC SHEER |
fabrics |
Heavy, rather stringy
open-weave vision net, for curtains |
Heavy, rather stringy
open-weave vision net, for curtains, often in two-colour
plain weave. Acrylic fibre is very soft and difficult
to press, but firmer net of this kind contains about 20%
of flax, which improves its texture and handle. Others
contain polyester, which behaves like scaffolding |
| ACRYLIC-VINYL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A man-made fibre |
A man-made fibre
made of copolymer consisting of 40% acrylonitrile and
60% of vinyl chloride. Available in staple form; used
in industrial fabrics, blankets, knit goods, etc |
| ACRYLONITRILE |
³ |
The raw material
for an important range of man-made fibres. |
The raw material
for an important range of man-made fibres. A liquid derived
from air and natural gas. |
| ACTINIC DEGRADATION |
processes, operations |
A weakening or
deterioration of fibre |
A weakening or
deterioration of fibre due to exposure to ultraviolet
rays of the sun particularly, or artificial light. |
| ACTINIC RESISTANCE |
processes, operations |
Ability of textile
to retain strength |
Ability of textile
to retain strength and desist deterioration when exposed
to sunlight. |
| ACTUAL BREAKING
STRESS |
general |
See under Breaking
stress. |
See under Breaking
stress. |
| AD-HOCK |
processes, operations |
Block printing
in colours over a Jacquard design. |
1. Same as Overprint.
2. Block printing in colours over a Jacquard design. |
| ADD-ON |
general |
The mass of solids,
of any material, chemical finish, coating, sizing, etc.,
that is left on a given weight of fabric after impregnation
and drying. |
The mass of solids,
of any material, chemical finish, coating, sizing, etc.,
that is left on a given weight of fabric after impregnation
and drying. Besides impregnation, fabric may be sprayed,
lick-roller coated, or foamed and coated resulting in
the deposition of a solute.
The use of the terms Pick-up and Wet pick-up to denote
the weight of solids taken up by a fabric is deprecated. |
| ADDITION POLYMERISATION |
processes, operations |
The formation of
a polymer by reaction of a compound or compounds without
the formation of other reaction products. |
The formation of
a polymer by reaction of a compound or compounds without
the formation of other reaction products.
See also Polymerisation and Condensation polymerisation |
| ADELAIDE WOOLS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Adelaide wools
find use in high quality worsteds made from very fine,
choice fibres. |
Obtained from around
the city of Adelaide, the wool is slightly lower in quality
when compared with Port Philip and Sydney wools raised
in Australia. Adelaide wools find use in high quality
worsteds made from very fine, choice fibres. |
| ADHESION |
general |
The property denoting
the ability of a material to resist delamination or separation
into two or more layers. |
The property denoting
the ability of a material to resist delamination or separation
into two or more layers. |
| ADHESION TEST |
general |
A test to assess
the force required per unit width to separate layers of
coated or laminated fabrics |
A test to assess
the force required per unit width to separate layers of
coated or laminated fabrics |
| ADHESIVE-ACTIVATED
YARNS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Yarns that have
been treated to promote improved adhesion to another material
such as rubber and/or to permit easier processing |
Yarns that have
been treated to promote improved adhesion to another material
such as rubber and/or to permit easier processing |
| ADHESIVE-BONDED
NONWOVEN FABRIC |
fabrics |
Textile material
composed of a web or batt of fibres, bonded by the application
of adhesive material. |
Textile material
composed of a web or batt of fibres, bonded by the application
of adhesive material. See also Saturation bonding, Spray
bonding, Print bonding, and Foam bonding |
| ADJECTIVE DYES |
³ |
Colouring substances
that must be applied with a mordant |
Colouring substances
that must be applied with a mordant. The colours change
in character with the type of mordant used. |
| ADMIRALTY CLOTH |
fabrics |
A term used by
British naval forces for the standard British Melton used
for officers' uniforms and coats. |
A term used by
British naval forces for the standard British Melton used
for officers' uniforms and coats. |
| ADRAS |
fabrics |
An union fabric
containing silk and cotton, usually in equal quantities. |
An union fabric
containing silk and cotton, usually in equal quantities.
It is glossy, has narrow stripes, and is made in a beetled
finish |
| ADSORPTION |
processes, operations |
A process in which
the surface of a solid takes on or absorbs in an extremely
thin layer |
A process in which
the surface of a solid takes on or absorbs in an extremely
thin layer, molecules of gases, of dissolved substances,
or of liquids with which it is in contact. |
| ADULTERATION |
processes, operations |
The adulteration
of substitute fibres or foreign materials to textiles,
e.g. wool is sometimes adulterated with cotton. |
The adulteration
of substitute fibres or foreign materials to textiles,
e.g. wool is sometimes adulterated with cotton. This should
not be confused with blending or mixing, where the objective
is to obtain increased service, improved appearance, etc. |
| ADVERTISING TAPE |
accessories |
See Bolduc |
See Bolduc |
| AERATED YARN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Hollow-filament
yarn. |
See Hollow-filament
yarn. |
| AEROPHANE |
fabrics |
A thin, solid-coloured,
silk gauze made in imitation of crepe |
A thin, solid-coloured,
silk gauze made in imitation of crepe. Formerly used for
trimming dresses and millinery |
| AEROPLANE FABRIC |
fabrics |
Any fabric used
as the outer covering of a 'heavier-than-air' aircraft. |
Any fabric used
as the outer covering of a 'heavier-than-air' aircraft.
Originally, a simple, single, high-quality fabric of tightly
woven construction, which may include rip-stop threads
to enhance tear resistance. However, modern fabrics are
typically polyester or polyamide-based and may be laminated
with a thin polymer film or films, these fabrics being
used on light and micro-light aircraft, gliders and hang-gliders. |
| AERTEX |
fabrics |
Trade name for
a brand of cotton cellular fabric. |
Trade name for
a brand of cotton cellular fabric. Cool and absorbent
and comfortable to wear, because it is made of cotton
and is of open texture. Used for underwear, sports clothes,
and shirts for children and adults |
| AFFINITY |
³ |
See Dye affinity |
See Dye affinity |
| AFGHALAINE |
fabrics |
Woollen dress-fabric
made in plain weave using firmly twisted yarns in alternate
'S' and 'Z' twist in both warp and weft. |
Woollen dress-fabric
made in plain weave using firmly twisted yarns in alternate
'S' and 'Z' twist in both warp and weft. The use of firmly
twisted yarns give a fairly crisp handle and the use of
opposing twists give a faintly crinkled appearance to
the surface of the fabric. Fabric surface is fairly clear
of fibres. Cheaper qualities not very crisp in handle
and show more surface fibres, and may be made of a mixture
of wool and a cheaper fibre. |
| AFRICAN COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A comprehensive
term for all the varieties of cotton cultivated in Africa. |
A comprehensive
term for all the varieties of cotton cultivated in Africa.
The native varieties generally tend to be inferior. |
| AFRICAN FIBRE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A leaf fibre obtained
from the palmetto in Algeria. |
A leaf fibre obtained
from the palmetto in Algeria. Used for stuffing mattresses. |
| AFRICAN STRIPE |
fabrics |
A cotton fabric
with bold, coloured stripes |
A cotton fabric
with bold, coloured stripes |
| AFRICAN WASTE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A silk produced
by the Anaphe silkworm, the most important silk manufacturing
insect in Africa. |
A silk produced
by the Anaphe silkworm, the most important silk manufacturing
insect in Africa. |
| AFRICAN WOOLS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Refers mainly to
the very much sought after merino wools, from the southern
parts of Africa. |
Refers mainly to
the very much sought after merino wools, from the southern
parts of Africa. They are characterised by its softness,
fineness, and whiteness. The term African wools, also
include some other native breeds which are inferior in
quality. |
| AFTER-CHROMING |
processes, operations |
A dyeing process |
A dyeing process
in which a chrome mordant is applied to a dyed fabric
while it is wet, thus increasing the fastness of the dye |
| AFTER-COPPERING |
processes, operations |
A dyeing process |
The treatment of
prints, usually those with direct or sulphur dyes, with
copper salts solution. |
| AFTER-TREATING |
processes, operations |
A technique used
to improve colourfastness |
A technique used
to improve colourfastness and/or to produce normal shades
by passing the dyed material through a chemical solution,
e.g. Direct dyes are so treated. |
| AFTER-WELT |
garments, made-ups,
assemblies |
A band on a stocking,
following the welt, in which there is a variation of quality,
stitch, and/or yarn. |
Also called Anti-ladder
band, Anti-run-back courses, Garter band, and Shadow welt.
A band on a stocking, following the welt, in which there
is a variation of quality, stitch, and/or yarn. |
| AFTERFLAME |
general |
Persistence of
flaming of a material |
Persistence of
flaming of a material after the ignition source has been
removed. |
| AFTERGLOW |
general |
Glow in a material
after the removal of an external ignition source or after
the cessation of (natural or induced) of flaming of the
material. |
Glow in a material
after the removal of an external ignition source or after
the cessation of (natural or induced) of flaming of the
material. See also Flame, Glow and Smouldering. |
| AFTERTREATMENT |
processes, operations |
A comprehensive
term for any treatment following actual dyeing operation |
A comprehensive
term for any treatment following actual dyeing operation,
e.g. colour fixing, resin application, neutralisation,
washes, et |
| AGARIC |
fabrics |
Cotton fabric with
a loop construction, similar to towelling |
Cotton fabric with
a loop construction, similar to towelling |
| AGEING |
processes, operations |
Progressive change
with time in the structure and properties of polymers,
including wool fibres. |
1. IN POLYMERS.
Progressive change with time in the structure and properties
of polymers, including wool fibres.
2. IN PRINTING. Fixation of printed colour by means of
heat or steam. Originally induced by the action of air,
sunlight or dew; this process gradually came to be carried
out in a Rapid ager or by hot air or in a steam cabinet.
3. IN THE PRODUCTION OF VISCOSE. The oxidative depolymerisation
of alkali cellulose in order to produce a controlled decrease
in the chain length of the cellulose. The term is sometimes,
although incorrectly, used to describe the ripening of
viscose.
4. IN DRYING-OIL SIZES AND FINISHES. The oxidation by
exposure to air of drying-oil sizes and finishes.
5. IN RUBBER, PLASTIC COATINGS, PROOFINGS AND LUBRICANTS.
The deterioration of rubber and plastic coatings and proofings
and of some lubricants on textiles, caused by gradual
oxidation on storage and/or exposure to light. |
| AGEING IN TESTING |
processes, operations |
Storage of a material
under defined conditions, |
Storage of a material
under defined conditions, to determine by subsequent tests
the effect of these conditions on the properties of the
material. The conditions may be chosen to accelerate any
natural changes that may occur |
| AGRA GAUZE |
fabrics |
See Agré
gauze. |
See Agré
gauze. |
AGRA GAUZE
AGRÉ GAUZ |
fabrics |
See Agré
gauzeI |
See Agré
gauze |
| AGRÉ GAUZE |
fabrics |
Also called Agra
gauze. Plain weave, open-sett, silk fabric having a gauze-like
appearance that receives a stiff finish. |
Also called Agra
gauze. Plain weave, open-sett, silk fabric having a gauze-like
appearance that receives a stiff finish. |
| AIR BRUSH PRINTING |
processes, operations |
A mechanical process
by which colour is blown onto a fabric |
A mechanical process
by which colour is blown onto a fabric. Commonly used
on rayon or silk dobby or Jacquard fabrics. Interesting
shaded effects may be obtained on fabrics by this method. |
| AIR BRUSHING |
processes, operations |
Process of colour
being blown on the fabric with mechanised airbrush. |
Process of colour
being blown on the fabric with mechanised airbrush. |
| AIR CONDITIONING |
processes, operations |
The treatment of
air to maintain set levels of temperature, humidity and
dust or lint content. |
the treatment of
air to maintain set levels of temperature, humidity and
dust or lint content. |
| AIR LAYING |
processes, operations |
A method of forming
a web or batt of staple fibres |
A method of forming
a web or batt of staple fibres in which the fibres are
dispersed into an air stream and condensed from the air
stream on to a permeable cage or conveyor. |
| AIR PERMEABILITY |
fabrics |
The rate of airflow
through a material |
The rate of airflow
through a material under a differential pressure between
the two fabric surfaces. The porosity of a fabric as measured
by the ease with which air passes through it. |
| AIR TEXTURING |
processes, operations |
See Air-jet texturing. |
See Air-jet texturing. |
| AIR WICKING |
processes, operations |
Air permeability
in the plane of the fabric |
The passage of
air longitudinally along or through yarns, i.e. Air permeability
in the plane of the fabric |
| AIR-CONDITIONING
OF FABRIC |
processes, operations |
See Fabric air-conditioning. |
See Fabric air-conditioning. |
| AIR-COOLED FINISH |
processes, operations |
A process of finishing
fabrics |
A process of finishing
fabrics to make them more porous so that air can circulate
through the openings between the yarns. Fabrics so finished
are said to 'breathe', a feature important for summer
fabrics. |
| AIR-JET LOOM |
apparatus, equipage,
tools |
Loom in which the
weft is inserted with a blast of air instead of using
a shuttle. See also Shuttleless loom. |
Loom in which the
weft is inserted with a blast of air instead of using
a shuttle. See also Shuttleless loom. |
| AIR-JET SPINNING |
processes, operations |
Process of spinning
staple-fibres, using air to apply the twisting couple
to the yarn during its formation |
Process of spinning
staple-fibres, using air to apply the twisting couple
to the yarn during its formation. The air is blown through
small holes arranged tangential to the yarn surface and
this causes the yarn to rotate. The majority of systems
using this technique produce Fasciated yarns, but by using
two air jets operating in opposing twist directions it
is possible to produce yarns with more controlled properties
but of more complex structure. |
| AIR-JET TEXTURING |
processes, operations |
See under Texturing |
See under Texturing |
| AIRLOOP FABRIC |
fabrics |
Warp knitted fabric,
having a construction |
Warp knitted fabric,
having a construction with reverse locknit lapping movements,
the back guide bar being overfed to give a short pile
on the surface of the fabric. |
| AJOUR |
accessories |
Lacy, openwork
embroidery, normally cotton with viscose fibre. |
Lacy, openwork
embroidery, normally cotton with viscose fibre. A decoration,
used on blouses and underwear |
| AL |
³ |
A dye |
A dye, morindin,
obtained from the roots of the Indian mulberry Morinda
citrifolia. |
| ALAPAT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A two-ply, fine
gauge yarn, spun from coir or coconut fibre |
A two-ply, fine
gauge yarn, spun from coir or coconut fibre |
| ALBATROSS |
fabrics |
A fine, lightweight,
soft material made of good quality worsted yarn. |
A fine, lightweight,
soft material made of good quality worsted yarn. Plain
or rather open fancy weaves are used to enhance the crêpe
feel and surface effect. |
| ALBERT CLOTH |
fabrics |
Double faced, reversible
coat fabric, often with a different face and back. |
Double faced, reversible
coat fabric, often with a different face and back. Made
from wool, it is a good quality cloth used to make expensive
overcoats for men, sometimes with velvet collars |
| ALCIAN |
³ |
See under Ingrain
dye |
See under Ingrain
dye |
| ALCOHOLS |
³ |
Chemical compounds
composed of one or more hydroxyl groupings attached to
a hydrocarbon. |
Chemical compounds
composed of one or more hydroxyl groupings attached to
a hydrocarbon. The most commonly used are wood alcohol
(methyl), grain alcohol (ethyl) and glycerol or glycerine |
| ALENÇON
LACE |
fabrics |
Lace, usually made
in a floral design |
Lace, usually made
in a floral design with an outlining of heavy corded thread.
Background is fine mesh or net. |
| ALEXANDRIA |
fabrics |
Fine, lightweight
dress fabric made of cotton and wool with a small woven
design |
The name probably
derived from the very early silk and wool fabrics, made
in the ancient city of Alexandria, which featured small
designs such as flowers and scrolls. Fine, lightweight
dress fabric made of cotton and wool with a small woven
design. It gathers well. Used for blouses, dresses and
children's clothes |
| ALGINATE |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibres and filaments
formed from a metallic salt of alginic acid, the natural
polymer in certain seaweeds. |
Fibres and filaments
formed from a metallic salt of alginic acid, the natural
polymer in certain seaweeds. Calcium alginate fibre, owing
to its solubility in soapy water, find use as a blend
component in making very fine, woollen cloth. Extremely
fine worsted yarns are blended with seaweed fibres to
give them extra strength to withstand weaving, after which
the cloth is washed in soapy water, when the seaweed dissolves,
resulting in a fine woollen cloth, easily packed, warm,
crease-resistant, weighing even as little 50 g/m2. Used
for camouflage netting. Also it is used in making fabrics
with crêpe, bouclé and astrakhan effects.
The alginate fibres act as supporting threads for the
loops, and are then dissolved out leaving the loops free. |
| ALGINATE FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibres and filaments
formed from a metallic salt of alginic acid, the natural
polymer in certain seaweeds. |
Fibres and filaments
formed from a metallic salt of alginic acid, the natural
polymer in certain seaweeds. Calcium alginate fibre, owing
to its solubility in soapy water, find use as a blend
component in making very fine, woollen cloth. Extremely
fine worsted yarns are blended with seaweed fibres to
give them extra strength to withstand weaving, after which
the cloth is washed in soapy water, when the seaweed dissolves,
resulting in a fine woollen cloth, easily packed, warm,
crease-resistant, weighing even as little 50 g/m |
| ALHAMBRA QUILT |
fabrics |
A jacquard figured
fabric with a plain ground weave that requires two warps |
A jacquard figured
fabric with a plain ground weave that requires two warps.
The figuring warp is usually two-ply and coloured, the
ground warp singles and undyed. The weft is often made
on the condenser system, soft spun and of coarse count. |
| ALIZARIN DYE |
chemicals, textile
auxiliaries |
The essential colouring
matter of the madder root |
The essential colouring
matter of the madder root, now produced artificially from
anthracene, a coal-tar derivative. Used successfully on
wool, but the popular colour Turkey red is an example
of its use on cotton. This red is brilliant and resistant
to sun and washing. |
| ALKALI |
³ |
The opposite of
acidic. |
The opposite of
acidic. Alkaline materials neutralise acids. A strong
alkali will dissolve animal fibres. |
| ALKALI CELLULOSE |
³ |
Cellulose in an
intermediate step in the manufacture of viscose process
yarn. |
Cellulose in an
intermediate step in the manufacture of viscose process
yarn. |
| ALKALI SOLUBILITY |
general |
The solubility
of wool in sodium hydroxide solution which provides an
index of the change in its chemical properties |
1. IN WOOL. The
solubility of wool in sodium hydroxide solution which
provides an index of the change in its chemical properties
brought about by certain agencies.
2. IN FLAX. A measure of the amount of non-cellulosic
constituents (readily available as food-stuffs for micro-organisms),
which are left in commercially boiled flax. |
| ALKANET |
³ |
A dyestuff produced
from red cabbage (alkanna) grown in Russia |
A dyestuff produced
from red cabbage (alkanna) grown in Russia. Dye is purplish
red in colour. |
| ALL SILK |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Same as Pure silk. |
Same as Pure silk. |
| ALL WOOL |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
100% wool |
100% wool |
| ALL-OVER |
fabrics |
A term used in
designing to indicate that the design covers the entire
surface. |
A term used in
designing to indicate that the design covers the entire
surface. This is in contrast to fragmentary motifs, borders
or stripes |
| ALL-OVER LACE |
fabrics |
Any piece-lace
with a pattern repeated regularly all over, without any
edgings, or borders, etc. |
Any piece-lace
with a pattern repeated regularly all over, without any
edgings, or borders, etc. |
| ALLEN |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A long staple,
late maturing cotton named after the man who developed
the variety. |
A long staple,
late maturing cotton named after the man who developed
the variety. The staple is about 11/2 inches long and
lustrous, the seed fuzzy and white. |
| ALLIGATOR |
fabrics |
The skin of the
reptile, characterised by its square boxy markings. |
The skin of the
reptile, characterised by its square boxy markings. Used
mainly for shoes and handbags. |
| ALLOWANCE |
processes, operations |
the extra dimensions
allowed over body measurements. |
1. IN GARMENT MEASUREMENTS,
the extra dimensions allowed over body measurements.
2. IN SCREEN PRINTING, often a small overlap planned so
as to avoid possible gaps of white cloth if registration
of the screens is not accurately accomplished.
3. IN ENGRAVED ROLLER PRINTING, a small space between
areas of colour, so carefully calculated as to be just
closed on printing - to avoid Bleeding. |
| ALNEIN |
³ |
A golden-yellow
dyestuff produced by the alder tree |
A golden-yellow
dyestuff produced by the alder tree |
| ALOE LACE |
fabrics |
Very fragile type
of lace, made from the fibre of the plant, aloe. |
Very fragile type
of lace, made from the fibre of the plant, aloe. Very
expensive. Usually made in Italy, and some in the Philippines |
| ALPACA |
fibers, filaments,
yarns,fabrics |
The silky fleece
of alpaca, an animal of the genus Llama, but slightly
smaller in size, found in South America |
1. FIBRE. The silky
fleece of alpaca, an animal of the genus Llama, but slightly
smaller in size, found in South America. Sometimes blended
with cotton, wool, or rayon, mainly to reduce the cost,
even though alpaca is not as expensive as camel or cashmere.
2. FABRIC. Alpaca, characterised by its crispness, was
once widely used for dress fabrics, but now mainly confined
to men's light suits in black or grey. Imitation alpaca
is made from viscose and acetate yarns. |
| ALPACA CRÊPE |
fabrics |
Soft, acetate or
polyester fabric with dulls surface, fairly soft to handle. |
Soft, acetate or
polyester fabric with dulls surface, fairly soft to handle. |
| ALTAR CLOTH |
fabrics |
Also called Bisso
linen. Very fine, sheer, crisp fabric |
Also called Bisso
linen. Very fine, sheer, crisp fabric, used as the name
suggests, for church clothes. |
| ALTERNATING TWIST |
processes, operations |
A texturing process
in which 'S' twist and 'Z' twist are alternately inserted
in the yarn |
A texturing process
in which 'S' twist and 'Z' twist are alternately inserted
in the yarn by means of a special heating technique. |
| ALUM |
³ |
A colourless, water-soluble
crystal. |
A colourless, water-soluble
crystal. Used as a Mordant in dyeing and as an agent with
alizarin for printing woollens |
| ALUMINIUM ACETATE |
³ |
A mordant employed
in calico printing and dyeing |
A mordant employed
in calico printing and dyeing. Known as red liquor in
the textile trades. Used frequently for Waterproofing |
| ALUMINIUM SILICATE
FIBRES |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
Fibres spun from
aluminium silicate |
Fibres spun from
aluminium silicate, with or without the addition of minor
amounts of other materials. Light weight fibre, thermal
shock resistant, flame resistant, and resilient, can withstand
high temperatures, chemically stable and have electrical
properties. Used for blankets, ropes, tapes and broad
woven textile goods. |
| ALUMINIUM YARNS |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
See Lurex |
See Lurex |
| AMAZON |
fabrics |
Fine dress fabric
with a worsted warp and woollen weft, usually in satin
weave in plain colours |
Fine dress fabric
with a worsted warp and woollen weft, usually in satin
weave in plain colours. Is lightly milled and raised to
give a fibrous effect but this does not conceal the twill
effect of the satin weave. Expensive, so used only occasionally,
mainly for women's clothes. |
| AMENS |
fabrics |
See Amiens |
See Amiens |
| AMERICAN CLOTH |
fabrics |
Light-weight, plain-weave
fabric, usually cotton |
Light-weight, plain-weave
fabric, usually cotton, coated on one side with a mixture
of linseed oil and other materials so as to render it
glossy and impermeable to air or water. |
| AMERICAN CORD |
accessories |
See Rat-tail cord. |
See Rat-tail cord. |
| AMERICAN COTTON |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A type of cotton
fibre. |
A type of cotton
fibre. Average fibre length 23-32 mm.; not used for fine
counts. |
| AMERICAN GRAIN
COUNT |
fibers, filaments,
yarns |
A direct yarn numbering
system for expressing linear density |
A direct yarn numbering
system for expressing linear density, equal to the mass
in grams per 120 yards of Sliver or Roving |
| AMERICAN SYSTEM |
processes, operations |
A method of spinning
worsted yarns |
A method of spinning
worsted yarns, developed in the U.S., that is still in
the evolution stage. |
| AMERICAN TWILL |
fabrics |
an ordinary two
up, two down twill weave. |
A term occasionally
used in England for an ordinary two up, two down twill
weave. |
| AMIENS |
fabrics |
Also called Amens. |
Also called Amens.
A closely woven, twilled fabric made of hard-twisted worsted
yarns |
